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I have a S170 as well. Belt number 6 on 81 hours for a 3/4 acre yard. I have had it serviced by the John Deere dealer near me. They verified alignment of pullies, middle idle for blade engagement, no debris on top of deck, etc. Regardless, every 12th-15th time I engage the blades, I have a cleanly broken belt. Buy your belts 2 at a time. It saves trips back to the dealer.

I have an S160 (same 48 inch deck as your S170), and wanted to mention that you can replace the belt without removing it. It was pretty easy and saves a lot of time.

LEGO ! Yes working with them blocks you always need lots of half pieces, It will be strong when your done :) I busy but with a little more wood trying to side my cabin with one hand, Bluetti is a pretty awesome unit :) I just got the AC200L & been putting it to the test here at my off grid cabin man you can put it through a lot :)

Do what works for you..its all a learning experience! I could advise after a 40 year contracting career but we pour everything here in Vermont…very little block is used as it seems to not hold up well.Footings,walls,slabs I always pour by truck…as long as your steps are consistent with block height you can make it work.

Great video :D

This is definitely not how the pros do it, but then again, it's working for me.

Slow and steady wins the cut.. Having a sun shade really saved my butt.

I hope this works. Subscribe if you want to see what it looks like next Fall/Winter/Spring.

I have the same tractor s170 and I have 2.5 acres. I love my tractor, but I am had this problem changing the belt for the first time. I change the belt per the schematic diagram; but the belt is SLACK…no tension at all. The belt is the correct part number from John Deere. This one is stumping me..😮😮

czcams.com/video/Zf2J4Ys-FwU/video.html

Wow that’s a lot of dirt above. Makes your think

🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

Lesson learned

The series does too E170.thanks for your video

Yeah had 2 cs590’s both had the bar studs break off.. garbage and you have to split the saw in half to replace them.. STIHL only..!!

Garter snake

Is it still there?

I like my E170 25hp briggs

24 mm

I sent you a comment on one of your older videos. Think about EARTH BUILDING. Cob, cordwood, Timber Frame with WATTLE AND DAUB, SUPERADOBE...and many more sustainable options are out there. Main materials are DIRT CHEEP. Literally! CLAY, SAND, WATER, and STRAW. From what I have seen on your videos, you have most of what you need already. Lumber use is fairly minimal and if the trees I see in your videos are yours, you could build a cordwood mansion! Building codes in USA have been recently updated to allow these types of structures which have stood for centuries in Europe and around the world. PLEASE do yourself yourself a favor and check them out. My personal favorite is CORDWOOD construction because it allows for an insulation layer in the walls that can be designed to meet ANY R-value requirements! There are courses being taught around the USA and Canada that teach these techniques including online. Check them out.

HAVE YOU THOUGHT ABOUT EARTH BUILDING? COB, SUPERADOBE, WATTLE AND DAUB, CORD WOOD. Your main components you already have...WATER, CLAY SOIL, SAND, AND STRAW. Google it!!!!!

Eat some Venicen tonight

😮😂 got to love the animals

Lucky deer ❤

I bought the S220 lawn tractor it has the frame deck off of the x300 series mine has the 42"deck my deck belt comes in the middle to the engine seems like your belt comes from the side to crank pulley looks like a poor design i have never had a deck belt break on any mower unless for mechanical reasons

Clearing brush and going over recommended acreage and you're wondering what's wrong? User error, that's what's wrong.

We live in Kentucky and I usually wait until after a good soaking rain to roll, but it still does not completely flatten the ground, although it helps. My issue is with the retaining clips (E-Rings) holding the frame to the roller. It's puts a lot of stress on the clips and one of mine popped off last year and bent the frame (scraper bar). I just ordered the parts I need and I think I'm going to drill for small cotter pins to replace or at least supplement the e-rings. I read in an Amazon review of one of these rollers that someone successfully did that. Good luck!

😂😂😂 that's great

I owned a Deere mower for 15 years and never broke a belt. I bought a new s170 two years ago and now on my third belt. It must be me, right?

You cannot blame a man for trying... I thought you did a much better job than I could have! Thanks very much for the tips...and the efforts to share!!! Happy mowing! I will try to do a better job on my own machine now that I have a better idea of how it's done!💯percent awesome!

Love your water boy reference 😂 I grow sunflowers every year but trying pumpkins for the first time now. First time seeing your channel. Subscribed!

Should the mulch plan fail, just leave it all in place, add more, throw some big branches over it to keep it in place, let it overwinter & try again next spring. Yikes! That dirt is someting else. What is the % sand, silt, clay?

That rose thing is likely an invasive multifora rose. It's an imported invasive Asian species that found its way into the US as a hedgerow planting. It has small white roses. The problem is it spreads...sending out shoots into the pasture or farmland. It also spreads via seeds from the hips. Only goats will eat it down. Knock it down & back whenever you see it. KILL KILL KILL !!!

I had 2 belts snap last week on a deere s140. In the shop right now.

Check pulley alignment that i did on mine and the belt is doing better.

I saw a tip on another channel that slowing engine speed before disengaging the blades would save wear and tear on the blade brakes. I tried it and the first few times it worked fine. Then one day, I slowed the engine down, disengaged the belt and the belt broke. I assumed the belt slipped off the pulley, got sucked under the deck and got cut. I put on another belt and the first time I slowed the engine and disengaged the blades it happened again. I THINK I disengaged the blades too soon after slowing engine speed. (Just a guess) I’m not touching the throttle again until after I disengage the blades. Perhaps you should look at the blade brakes as possibly causing the breakage. Keep us updated, I’d love to know what you find out

Have the same mower and Love it !! Took about 15 to 20 mins. to convert it to a regular oil change and you are right about the cut, it does an amazing job!!!

My grandmas landlord had this tree me and my brother would be playing in his yard always hate the smell of these things

The thorny tree in the video I believe is called a "Devil's Walking Stick". Nasty bugger.

I know this is an old review. But the first thing to do is delete, the easy change oil filter system. Putting it back to the way they use to be. The easy change system will 'kill' your mower. It's just a gimmick to sell to lazy people, not wanting to do proper maintenance.

When i had a craftsman the deck belt and drive belts were easy because the metal guards against the idler pulley's had a little give to them where you could just slip the belt between the guard and the pulley but not on the John Deere. Its thicker metal with no give so you gotta take the pulley almost all the way off which is a real pain. The drive belt looks so hard to do ill probably just take it in to John Deere which is what they want in the first place. I love my S 170 though it has lots of power.

I put my 4th belt on yesterday & and new pto cable(broke) 52 hrs on mower. My black belt covers have wear from the belts. I found that john deere does sell a belt retainer on it’s website. I ordered 1. I’ll see how that goes.

What are you supposed to do with it? 😂 use it. You ordered it 😂 Poor truck guy though.

Looking at the belt, the frayed areas are facing mainly in the one direction, that to me indicates the the belt is hitting an edge somewhere. The obvious place is the supporting brackets that secure the back of the deck to the body. As the belt has to travel from one side of the deck to the other without guides the belt would be moving and flexing and most likely hitting those supports. A simple solution if that was the problem is to fabricate two guides and attach them to the deck supports to eliminate those square edges. Just a thought.

Definitely recommend finding a decent used X series. These cheap box store quality mowers are just that. Worst thing JD ever did was start selling at the box stores. I picked up just yesterday a 2003 X495 for a grand. I'll be another grand into it for a deck and some odds and ends. Those were $12K new. You don't need a diesel but a higher grade X series will do you better.

I have an e-180 with 91 hrs, 3/4 acre turf cutting. I'm on my 4th belt now in 3 years.

I believe that engine is a Briggs and Stratton but on the S170 and S180 it's an upgraded Briggs and Stratton engine with chrome sleeves and some other stuff that was mentioned in a video that I watched today.

*FYI,* breaking belts appears to be a known and common problem with some of the 100 series JD mowers.

No one was hurt and you, the driver and your wife have a memory to laugh about when you are old and gray. You're lucky your wife had the presence of mind to film the incident!

6 belts in 3 years