Adding Rear Remotes To Kubota L3560 - #49
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- čas přidán 16. 09. 2020
- Any time I purchase a new piece of equipment I install all of the options myself. Although this does save money, the primary purposes is to ensure it is installed to my standards and to understand the options for future troubleshooting. This video shows the installation of rear remotes on a Kubota Grand L L3560.
If you have any questions or feedback, post them in the comments. I welcome input and criticism.
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#49 - Jak na to + styl
Excellent work, great patience. Fantastic approach !!!!
Thanks for the kind words!!
That was an awesome video and very detailed on install. Thank you very much
Thanks for the feedback!!!
Nice job and documentation. Appreciate your efforts.
Thank you for the feedback! It is very time consuming and it’s nice to hear some appreciation.
Saw your video on rear remote so yes on the taking off rear tire to access ports
The rear tire is removed for the rear remotes but you do not have to remove the tire for installation of third function.
Great video. I just installed two rear remotes on my L4060 thanks to this video.
Thank you and congrats!!
@ mike Ingold Do you have the part number to the kits?
@@robindyer4021
L8396 - lever kit one
L8393 - lever kit two
L8394 - lever kit three
L8308 - self centering valves
If you want a float valve that will be a different part number. The valve body is sold separately from the lever kits.
Nice job.
Nice job on the video. I’m about to install two rear remotes on my new 3560 ROPS.
Thanks! The basic steps will be the same.
When. I installed the two rear remotes on my tractor, I found that the first position lever assembly is about 1 inch too short for the lever to connect and operate correctly. I’ve contacted the dealer about the issue. I’m thinking that the lever assembly may have been manufactured incorrectly. Do you have any suggestions?
@@breckkoelemay2146
The rod with the ball joints is too short? Are you sure you have the levers in the correct location and oriented correctly? I’ll go look at the instructions again.
@@JaredsShop It’s the lever that attaches to the top of the first position valve. It doesn’t reach far enough to connect to the flat lever rod and move freely. I took a screenshot of part of your video so that I could compare your levers to the ones that came with my kits. Your first position lever reaches further our toward the fender then my lever does. I’ve contacted my dealer and they have ordered a new lever. I would like to share photos to get your input, but don’t see a way to do that. It seems like the part (TD350-92120) wasn’t manufactured correctly. It looks lie it is about an inch short and the rod portion that is welded to the end of the lever is on the front side of the lever instead of the back like yours and the one in the parts diagram.
Any chance you could measure the length of the first and second valve lever lengths?
So awesome, thanks for making such a great video about this. I'm gearing up to do that same thing on my L3560, could you detail what parts or kit you bought for this?
Thanks!!
One L8396
One L8393
One L8394
Three L8308
The first 3 are the lever kits for the different positions and the bottom quantity of 3 is the actual valves. All of my valves are standard double acting. If you’d like a detent floating valve that would be a different part number.
Awesome videos! I have a 3560LE and I added back a lot of the stuff that makes it an LE. Your third function and rear remote videos have given me some more inspiration. Did you add back the cruise control? I was surprised when I found out that an $80 switch was all that it takes. CC is really nice for mowing or roading.
Thanks for the feedback!!
I have not added cruise control yet. I have thought about it bust just haven’t. I had it on my last tractor and never used it. I’ll probably add it to this one just in case. I’ve already put almost as many hours in a year and a half on this tractor as I did in 9 years on my old tractor.
What did you do for lighting? I put a 32” light bar on mine and love it. It fits perfect and looks like it came from the factory with it.
Well done. Great camera views and explanations of the process. Thanks for your time and knowledge. You made it look easy but I know we only saw a small % of the time you spent. How long did it take start to end including moving cameras and editing?
Thanks!
It isn’t easy and unfortunately sometimes you don’t realize you missed a shot until it’s too late. For this video I actually found some footage that didn’t get offloaded one of the cameras. I make make an addendum some day.
The entire process of the installation and filming took 8-10 hours. The editing took another 6-8 hours. Editing is the worst part. I have at least a couple dozen other videos I need to edit and upload.
I have a L4060, wondering if I would use the same kits as you. Part Numbers Ive came up with are L8396 for base kit. Then L8308 valves then the stacking kits L8393, L8394, L8395. Mine is also a cab. My issue is getting parts right now. Base kits back ordered I guess.
That is a great video, love how detailed you are and logical in the order you installed everything. Thanks very much !!
Thank you very much. I’m almost positive they’re the same parts. You can check the Kubota website and build a tractor, add the parts, and you’ll see the numbers there.
What is the make and model of the remotes you installed? I can't find them online anywhere. Thanks
If you have a 1set back there can you get a couple more to stack on top of the other one plus you have to buy a new lever . Assy. With handel
Yep. Once the first one is on the other ones aren’t too bad. Obviously you still have to dig into the valve stack to bolt the extra ones on and remove the inner cover to add the levers. The man tap and first lever will be don’t though. That’ll give you something to look at and copy for the second and third levers.
Hi Jared, thanks for the video. I have the exact same tractor, the dealer install my 3 rear remotes. I was looking at quick connector on the back and I do not really see how you can release the male end of the pioneer connector one you insert them. I have not messed with it, but how does the female slip ring get pulled back to release the hose with that “housing” over them?
They are called “break away” connectors. You push them in and then pull all in one motion. They’ll pop right out. There’s no ring to pull back.
Thanks for that response. I enjoy your videos
@@tonymo2359
Thanks Tony! I have a ton more recorded. Just need time to edit.
love the video. I am waiting on my 2nd valve kit to come in. i ordered it about 4 months ago from messicks. Kubota parts are taking so long to be delivered. it was a 3 month back order on the valves.
I’ve heard it was taking a while. Luckily I ordered mine at the end of 2019 so it didn’t take as long and was before all of the price increases.
@@JaredsShop Hey Jared, I forgot to ask you. Did you use Thread lock on anything when you did The installation of the valves? Also, I think it’s PTFD that you were using on some of the threads. Do you recommend the tape or the stuff you were using out of the bottles to seal the threads thanks so much.
@@scottkozak4071
More often than not, I use PTFE tape. Teflon tape works perfectly fine for hydraulic fittings as long as you keep it out of the system. You should keep it at least one thread away from the end of a fitting and do not let any stray strands go over the end of the fitting. As long as you’re careful and meticulous, you won’t have issues. Kubota uses it on most of their fittings and even call for it in their manuals.
Some people like the liquid sealant, which works well too, as long as you let it dry. It’s usually manufacturers that I see use it more than individuals, especially on implements. I have found that I cannot perform any leak tests immediately following its use or it does not seal. It appears to need about a day rest to let it set up a bit before use.
@@JaredsShop thank you
Hi Jared, I would like to do the same on my L3000. Could you tell me how you find parts that does fit on your tractor? Thank a lot for this video. That's so great that even a french speaker like me did understand pretty well.
Thank you very much! I will try to look up parts and post a second reply.
Trying to decide if I need 3 remotes and the pto kit. I am planning on the TNT kit so that will steal two of them, but I wondered if I could just unplug the side link if I needed to use that remote for another rear implement? Just trying to think of what applications I’d need 3?Any ideas? Not sure if I need rather than want to justify the third remote LOL. Suggestions, Ideas?
Personally, if you’re getting 2 I’d get the third. I’m not sure I’d want to unplug the tilt as you may need to adjust it while using the third. For example, I was running a PTO Harley rake this weekend. The Harley rake uses my third remote for the angle. I used the top n tilt the entire time I was running the rake. The top let me adjust the aggressiveness of cut and the tilt let me adjust grade. Then the third remote adjusted the angle.
Another example would be a rear blade with hydraulic angle. You’ll want the top n tilt to stay active but also would want the third remote for the angle.
Hope that helps.
That’s pretty much exactly what I was thinking. Just trying to justify a tractor over $50,000 😬 🤠
Jared,
I purchased the same tractor as you in June of 2020. The L-3560HSTC LE.
I like the Top & Tilt you added after the remotes. More importantly though, I noticed that since you installed the remotes (and the Top & Tilt), you added a backhoe (BH92).
I've also got the same backhoe and am wondering how you managed to fit the Top & Tilt with the BH92 subframe installed?
If you try to order the 3560 with a backhoe, it says you can't order the Top&Tilt kit. It's either the backhoe or the Top&Tilt kit... one or the other.
My guess is that there is a clearance issue with the sub frame required to support the backhoe.
Have you found that, and do you have any documentation (videos) of any possible clearance issues and how you managed those?
Additionally.., have you ever had any issues with the hydraulics after swapping off the BH92 or when installing it?
I've got an intermittent issue where I get a low gear type growl or rumble when starting , and then a low hum vibration while running. If I connect and disconnect the hoses, it may resolve the issue.
Have you seen anything like this?
Thanks so much
Don and Carol
It's a Mad Mad Homestead
I believe the top and tilt is not recommended with the backhoe because you can tilt and pull an arm into the subframe. During normal usage you don’t have any clearance issues. That is just as guess on my part. The backhoe hoses are also pretty close to the tilt cylinder, but once again, it’s not horrible and if you pay attention you’ll be fine.
Jared my Grand L came with top and tilt. I want to add third set. Dealer has suggested waiting until 400 hr service to do because of fluid loss at install. Did you experience large hydraulic fluid loss? Also difficulty for average to slightly above mechanical skills. Hate to pay dealer if I don’t have to.
If you’re mechanical inclined at all you’ll be able to do it. I’d remove the rear tire and small access panel to make it easier. Then you’ll have to remove the bolts from the existing block and use new longer bolts to add the third valve on. Same for the rear couplers. Do the hoses and then move to the inside for the lever. Start it up and test before putting the tire back on.
I don’t think you’ll lose much fluid at all. Just a small amount that’s in the valves. Your case is not going to drain.
@@JaredsShop Got the remotes on. No problems. Thanks for the video. Made the process much easier.
@@brians9533
Good deal! Thanks!!
Guess this has been up for a while but I just found it. This is a GREAT video. It is really hard to video something when you have to work around all those odd angles, but you did a really good job. I have a Kubota L5030HSTC with two dealer installed rear remotes and they have been a problem since day one. I am considering re-doing them, and your video has been very helpful. I am 80 years old so not "bending" as well as I once was, but still looks do-able. The problem I have is the hoses from the quick connects on the second remote bind on the cab and frame as they travel down to the valve. Looks like they either used the wrong bracket to mount the connectors or routed the hoses incorrectly. All that adds up to the fact that it is almost impossible to get the "breakaway" to move forward or rearward as the hose is bound up. Is there anyway you could post a pic or two or send a diagram showing the routing of your hoses from the valve to the disconnects. I know its a 3D problem, but I was hoping.
Anyway - GREAT video -- keep them coming
Thank you very much. It is very difficult and you never know if you got good angles until you’re done.
Unfortunately I can’t post them here but I can send you some.
@@JaredsShop is there a private way for me to send you my email
@@jerdoggie5862
Go to Facebook and search for Jared’s Shop. You’ll find my page there where you can send a message.
Can you provide a link or part number for the tilt cylinder? Adding second remote this weekend
@h8bugs
I’ll see if I can get a part number for that. Mine came as a kit with top and tilt.
Part number for the tilt is 77700-08259.
Got another quick question. Not sure what the part is called but when you removed that cover/plate at minute 14:00 to install the manifold, how did no oil come out? Did you do anything prior to keep the mess to a minimum or was this just normal behavior because the system was not under pressure. Thanks!
Just a heads up, I shared your video on the "Orange Tractor Talks" forum. I'm certain there are others that will benefit from this video as much as I have.
Thanks!
I don’t think any oil did come out. If it did, it was minimal. Make sure your loader is on the ground and all pressure is relieved. Same with the 3pt. Gravity should be in your favor though and it not want to come out there as long as there is no pressure.
Which rear remote kit did you go with? Part #? Cost?
Had to go with WR Long for third function or wait a year for a kubota one, like we have nothing to do lol.
Thanks for the videos!
1 x L8396
1 x L8393
1 x L8394
3 x L8308
@@JaredsShop Thank you sir.
how do you connect the hydraulic coupler to the rear hydraulics? Do you just push it in?
Yes. Break-away coupler like these just push together. There is no collar to slide back.
@@JaredsShop thanks! Thats what I was trying to figure out since i just got my rear remotes installed
What did you lubricate the orings with during the assembly?
Super UDT2.
@@JaredsShop Thank you for the quick reply. Very much appreciated!
@@ddavis83864
You’re welcome!
jared. do you have any information on LED light conversion's. my work lights are LED but I wanted to change my head lights ( all 4 bulbs ) and my interior light. I just don't want to replace them and burn something up. thanks
Here are the LEDs for the headlights.
amzn.to/3ZxXuCI
I don’t know the interior yet.
@@JaredsShop thanks. I just ordered them
@@scottkozak4071
Let me know what you think.
We’re did you get your kits from.
My local dealer. I bought them when I purchased the tractor.
How much did you save from not having the dealer do the install?
I didn’t get a quote on the install. I install all of my own options because I’m very particular and it also gives me good insight into how they work in case there are issues in the future.
where did you get the kits from?
These are factory Kubota kits.
Why do have the float links attached on a QH15 when they are meant for a non quick hitch not to mention most things that need to float have a float link built in it
These floating links are meant for the quick hitch and came with the QH15. It’s much more common to need the links on a QH than not. When not using a QH the top link has a hole and you’ll use a pin on the attachment, which provides a good connection point. Since the QH has a hook on the top a built in float link can pop out of the hook. These prevent that.
I use them with my finish mower which doesn’t have a float link built into it.
Where did you order your kits from? What were the prices?
I purchased them from the dealer. Just under $1950 for all three. They are sold as three different lever kits and then you pick out what valves for each of the spots.
I just put all the pieces Jared listed in his post in my Cart at Messicks. Just shy of $2600 and back ordered for 50 to 70 business days. That’s a bunch of $$. Trying to decide how bad I want a rear mounted snow blower before next winter! Thanks for your video. Very well done.
Thank you!!
I couldn’t be without rear remotes. I use my top and tilt cylinder all of the time.
Great video. Unless you can come over and install mine for me, I think Ill take it back to the dealer. :-)
Ha ha. It’s definitely a bit of a job but isn’t too bad if you take you’re time and are mechanically inclined.
One of the biggest reasons I install my own options is so I’m familiar with them and the tractor in the case I have to troubleshoot something. It allows me to see how things work, how hydraulics are plumbed, and see parts of the tractor I may not otherwise see.
@@JaredsShop Just for grins I called Kubota and checked for price and availability. The parts are available. The price for the parts? Well, I almost choked. $2600. The shop wouldn't commit to a price. I have done harder things in my mechanical past. I will have to do this too. Maybe it will be fun to get back out to the shop. Thanks for showing me how.
@@drgnner6028
You’re welcome and I hope you do tackle it. Keep me updated.
What was the total installation time involved?
Probably 4-6 hours. I could do it quicker now but that was trying to decipher their diagrams, making sure the levers were correct, etc. I didn’t do it all at once.
Thanks
@@timmitchener6148
Welcome!
What length hoses for top and side links?
Pat B
I can measure mine but they came with the kit. I didn’t have to source mine separately. Are you getting the factory kit or making your own?
@@JaredsShop Making my own.
Pat B
I’ll measure mine and let you know.
@@JaredsShop thanks. greatly appreciated.
To clarify, I'm looking for hose measurements from the coupler to the top and side links, to the nearest inch of possible.
What are the part numbers for each kit installed?
Pat Battista
L8396 is the first lever kit.
L8393 is the second lever kit.
L8394 is the third lever kit.
L8308 is for a double acting valve, of which I have 3. If you want any of your valves to have float then it’s a different number.
@@JaredsShop Top and Side Links?
Pat B
L8388A for the top-n-tilt.
@@JaredsShop you wouldn’t by chance have the invoice from kubota so I can make sure I’m ordering it all they are saying 2800 for everything. I want to look it all up and make sure I’m not being swindled lol😅also want to make sure if I do order myself I can get it all at once.
Where your tires loaded with ballast? It didn’t look like it was that bad to remove that tire/wheel.
Yes they are. They’re super heavy. I just lifted it enough to take the weight off the lugs and then lifted it so I could set it on a jack stand. To put the tire back on I had to play with the height to get the lug lined up.
@@JaredsShop you’re awesome. Thank you for the quick replies to my questions.
That was what I was hoping you would say. That was the plan I had for removing the tire. Your video has made getting ready to install the same kits in my tractor much less stressful. Thank you for your hard work and efforts to make this video.
@@ddavis83864
You’re welcome bud. I enjoy helping where I can. I have lot more footage recorded that I need to edit and upload.
The tires are too bad as long as you don’t fight them. Just rock them back and forth to get them out and to put them back under the fender. If two lugs don’t line up, get one started, and then jack it up a bit to make the tire roll. Once you get the two lugs started you can jacks it up and put the bolts in.
@@ddavis83864
And anything you can do to share the video and help it spread is appreciated. The more responses like this I get the more incentive it gives me to make more videos. It’s hard to get excited about making videos when people don’t interact.
Were there torque specs provided for all of the bolts and nuts?
Yes. There were torque values in the assembly manual.
Just curious about something...
Did you lose a bet with your barber?
😆😆😆
My wife is my barber. 😂😂😂
I actually lost a bet with my oldest daughter about 8 or 9 years ago. Everyone kept telling me how much they liked it so I kept it. I’ve even had little old ladies with walkers come up to me in stores and tell me they liked my hair. I got tired of it though and no longer have it.
@@JaredsShop
Hahaha, I was just joking.
I am actually missing a lot of my hair in that area of my head.
Maybe I am envious. 😁😁😁
@@kevinfarr9739
I’m missing some too, which is why it doesn’t come down the back of my head and stops at my crown. 😁
That would be great - what would be the best way to send you my email address
Ah, I see you’re rocking the Mid life crisis Mohawk. Tell me, does it actually make you more aerodynamic like they say?
Reebs
I’ve had it for 7 years. It started as a bet with one of my kids. I liked it so I kept it. I’ve had little old ladies with walkers some up to me in stores and tell me they love my hair. I did recently get tired of it and wanted something new. Unfortunately this is footage from a few months ago so it’s not showing the current cut. I was dreading editing this video because of how much footage I had to comb through.