For those looking for the diagram... ibb.co/CJrpRgY Many thanks to all watching.. Please remember that this is a softswitch only, it will supply the FULL battery voltage so you will need to choose a suitable light when using this feature. Also, as the Chines are constantly changing this design, it could be that the pin I am testing may in your case not be the same OR may not exist at all. You will need to probe different points on the PCB to find the point being switched if it is at all active. NB!! PS.. I have had people querying the schematic shown as the "direction" of the mosfet technically looks wrong, swapping the Drain and Source will cause current flow across the body diode that will in turn cause the mosfet to fail.
Hi, really good video.and informative. I'm trying to do the same but don't get any voltage from that pin on the board when I turn the light function on. I tried to go to the link for a diagram and info but can't sign up or view. I wonder if you have a diagram I can view somehow? That would be greatly appreciated, thank you
@@TheCyclingNerd Hi, I'll look into it. The pin is a subjective one, because the Chinese are constantly changing the design it may well be that there is a different location on the PCB, or as in the case of the Sabvoton none at all. I'll check for the diagram it could be that STAF has closed down.
@@GapRecordingsNamibia is it possible that on your schematics Drain and Source are in oposite position? Sorry for my english, so i think drain and source on your schematic need to switch their positions.
@@bartatomee NO! If you swap Drain and Source you will burn up the mosfet. I know that technically drawn it looks wrong but if you swap the fet direction you will burn up the fet, I know because this happened to me, that same controller is still running to this day in a friends ebike with no issues. Swapping the Drain and Source causes current to flow across the body diode and that causes problems.
Great video. I have a Lectric bike that came with lights but I want to upgrade them and add turn signals so I'll be using MOSFETs with an ESP32 microcontroller to achieve that.
Nice, yes. that will work, just one word of caution, When picking a DC-DC convertor, make sure that you pick an ISOLATED output convertor, the reason being, if the convertor does fail, it wont send the 50 odd volts to your ESP and ancillaries.. Ask me how I know this? 😂🤣😂🤣 The normal DC-DC convertors are not isolated and when they fail they take out everything connected to them on the other side... The Isolated DC-DC convertors are more expensive but worth it, I will never again use anything else... Lesson learned.... Thanks for watching!😁
@@GapRecordingsNamibia thanks for the tip! Software engineer by trade and it's been a LONG time since I've done electronics work so really appreciate the sharing of knowledge.
Hi Brendon, No switch was run to the handle bars, the light is controlled by the controller, It has a "light" function that I was able to track the switch point of, I then only had to wire in a mosfet to switch the light on and off with. The light can operate with a wide voltage range, (9 - 60Vdc) hence, I was able to run it off of the main battery.
Oh sorry I misunderstood the intro. My problem is is that I fried my light circuit and my controller is incased with silicone. Tapping directly into the main is the best I can do with my current stock controller. Is that okay to do with 48v 10amh battery?
Good day. I did not change it, the controller had the function but no hardware for it, so I installed my own hardware, If you follow the link provided you will see what hardware I installed, along with the schematic, Please note that this is ONLY a soft switch and it will supply the battery voltage to the light, you must choose an appropriate light for this to work.
Hi Eric. in the about section of my page is my email address, please send me a mail and I will send you a digram for the switching circuit. Regards Charles
I have a 24 V 350 W controller and I want to hook up a LED light bar how can I test the circuit with a multi meter to find out the voltage output of the light circuit do I just set it to voltage and check the red and black wires of the light output for the controller I don't know what the voltage coming out of the light circuit is
Testing is aways a good idea, If there is a light circuit I can most probably with 99.9% certainty say that it is the pack voltage that you will find on the output..... So, as long as the meter you have can auto range just switch it to V ⎓ And measure the output. If your meter does not auto range set it to the voltage scale that can read more than 20V⎓ and you should be good to go. If it is the pack voltage you will need to use a multi voltage lightbar or you will need to provide it with the correct type DC/DC Convertor, if the light bar is 12V⎓ you will need a buck regulator, if it is more than your pack voltage ( although I highly doubt it) You'll need a boost regulator.
@@Eric_Tennant oh. Um the brake, I've had no luck with the brake light mate to trigger it from the brake switch that is. This is a very funny input that is grounded when activated, there is a floating potential there but nothing usable. My good mate vortecks2000 on youtube has a full build series on his newest ebike monster using an arduino teensy and some small relays to controll his brake light. I was hoping not to have to go that route but seems that would be the only way to do it... Which also means having to put in a dc dc convertor...
@@Eric_Tennant hi Eric, it does not transmit any signal it just grounds it to common and then the motor drive is cut and depending on what motor you have either regen or not.
Hello. I bought an Yume M11 electric scooter. The scooter came with the rear light broken (the red diffuser ) and because was mounted on the rear fender after a while broke completely. Yume sent me a replacement but now I have no brake light. I changed the connectors between them and the led's are working either 2 either 3 from 5 total which 3 I presume should be for the brake light. I understood that the controller has a low and a high brake wire. Is the high 12V? I will mount a separate brake light but I see other connectors with only 1 wire. It means the wire is only +? If yes which one. And the ground is common with other ground wire? Please help me. [Smile]
Hi Nelu, I am sorry, I have no knowledge of the inner workings of any of the scooters as I own none. You could possibly ask the manufacturer if they can srnd you a schematic, or you might need to google for one. Sorry I can be of no service, you might also be able to google reviews on YT of the M11 broken rear light issue. Sorry, this is the only advice I am able to offer, my apologies. Good luck.
@@GapRecordingsNamibia Thank you for your fast answer. Schematics from chinesse manufacturers, I believe is more probably to win a lottery :))). Happy holidays and all the best.
Good day.. I would suspect so, there could be water ingress and there could be either bord damage, part damage or both. It would be wise to open up the controller and inspect this, it sounds as though a FET or some other component has failed in a "short" state causing the on condition. Water ingress, especially where electronics is involved leads to track and part corrosion.
i was unclear what the light symbol on your lcd display indicates. my lcd display has the same thing. it show when i turn on the display then the light symbol disappears after about a second. I thought that light symbol is indicating when the back light of the display turns on. On my display i have not figured out how to keep the backlight for the display to stay on yet. or to turn it on and off. do you know?
Hi, yes, that is the correct operation. When switched on, if you connect a light as described then you will see that the light also momentarily switches on and off. The lcd backlight will only switch on with the light signal. If you want this to be on you will need to press and hold the "up" button for 2 seconds, this will turn on the "light" function. Hope this helps you.
@@GapRecordingsNamibia thanks.. Also, I just found the manual for the LCD3. It gives lots of great info about how the LCD works. BTW, did you set up you external light to only go on when the LCD backlight goes on?
Hi Mario, You can follow this link to the STAF forum where I have done a writeup and the circuit digram is also available. Thanks for watching! staf.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=35
@@GapRecordingsNamibia just checked the pinned comment and now it works, thanks for the reply from all these years :) using this logic to add brake light from the controller. Silly Chinese controller has 5v signal when brakes are applied. Thanks again update: finished my test and its all working, just as a heads up your schematic has the source and drain pins flipped. The lamp output - output should be going to the middle pin (Drain). Your video seems to have it wired correctly or else it wouldn't work :) Great idea overall, updating a few of my little ebikes to now light up the brakes correctly via the controller.
For those looking for the diagram... ibb.co/CJrpRgY
Many thanks to all watching.. Please remember that this is a softswitch only, it will supply the FULL battery voltage so you will need to choose a suitable light when using this feature. Also, as the Chines are constantly changing this design, it could be that the pin I am testing may in your case not be the same OR may not exist at all. You will need to probe different points on the PCB to find the point being switched if it is at all active. NB!! PS.. I have had people querying the schematic shown as the "direction" of the mosfet technically looks wrong, swapping the Drain and Source will cause current flow across the body diode that will in turn cause the mosfet to fail.
Hi, really good video.and informative. I'm trying to do the same but don't get any voltage from that pin on the board when I turn the light function on. I tried to go to the link for a diagram and info but can't sign up or view. I wonder if you have a diagram I can view somehow? That would be greatly appreciated, thank you
@@TheCyclingNerd Hi, I'll look into it. The pin is a subjective one, because the Chinese are constantly changing the design it may well be that there is a different location on the PCB, or as in the case of the Sabvoton none at all. I'll check for the diagram it could be that STAF has closed down.
@@TheCyclingNerd Try this link please for the digram. ibb.co/CJrpRgY
@@GapRecordingsNamibia is it possible that on your schematics Drain and Source are in oposite position? Sorry for my english, so i think drain and source on your schematic need to switch their positions.
@@bartatomee NO! If you swap Drain and Source you will burn up the mosfet. I know that technically drawn it looks wrong but if you swap the fet direction you will burn up the fet, I know because this happened to me, that same controller is still running to this day in a friends ebike with no issues. Swapping the Drain and Source causes current to flow across the body diode and that causes problems.
Great video. I have a Lectric bike that came with lights but I want to upgrade them and add turn signals so I'll be using MOSFETs with an ESP32 microcontroller to achieve that.
Nice, yes. that will work, just one word of caution, When picking a DC-DC convertor, make sure that you pick an ISOLATED output convertor, the reason being, if the convertor does fail, it wont send the 50 odd volts to your ESP and ancillaries.. Ask me how I know this? 😂🤣😂🤣 The normal DC-DC convertors are not isolated and when they fail they take out everything connected to them on the other side... The Isolated DC-DC convertors are more expensive but worth it, I will never again use anything else... Lesson learned.... Thanks for watching!😁
@@GapRecordingsNamibia thanks for the tip! Software engineer by trade and it's been a LONG time since I've done electronics work so really appreciate the sharing of knowledge.
This awesome. Thanks! Is there any downside to your original set up by taping directly into the battery mains and running a switch to your handlebars?
Hi Brendon, No switch was run to the handle bars, the light is controlled by the controller, It has a "light" function that I was able to track the switch point of, I then only had to wire in a mosfet to switch the light on and off with. The light can operate with a wide voltage range, (9 - 60Vdc) hence, I was able to run it off of the main battery.
Oh sorry I misunderstood the intro. My problem is is that I fried my light circuit and my controller is incased with silicone. Tapping directly into the main is the best I can do with my current stock controller. Is that okay to do with 48v 10amh battery?
hello how did you change the function of the lights?
to be able to install a stronger light?
Thank you
Good day. I did not change it, the controller had the function but no hardware for it, so I installed my own hardware, If you follow the link provided you will see what hardware I installed, along with the schematic, Please note that this is ONLY a soft switch and it will supply the battery voltage to the light, you must choose an appropriate light for this to work.
Not sure about the resistor. 3 Wires 2 pins. What side of the resistor do you feed 5v to the negative side.
Hi Eric. in the about section of my page is my email address, please send me a mail and I will send you a digram for the switching circuit. Regards Charles
@@agapewindhoek I only see your location. No other information is displayed to me on your about page.
I have a 24 V 350 W controller and I want to hook up a LED light bar how can I test the circuit with a multi meter to find out the voltage output of the light circuit do I just set it to voltage and check the red and black wires of the light output for the controller I don't know what the voltage coming out of the light circuit is
Testing is aways a good idea, If there is a light circuit I can most probably with 99.9% certainty say that it is the pack voltage that you will find on the output.....
So, as long as the meter you have can auto range just switch it to V ⎓ And measure the output. If your meter does not auto range set it to the voltage scale that can read more than 20V⎓ and you should be good to go.
If it is the pack voltage you will need to use a multi voltage lightbar or you will need to provide it with the correct type DC/DC Convertor, if the light bar is 12V⎓ you will need a buck regulator, if it is more than your pack voltage ( although I highly doubt it) You'll need a boost regulator.
Your one step ahead of me with the same front light. I'm still waiting on motor/controller from china. Have you done break lights yet?
Hi Eric, I'm on my way to work right now. But I will draw a small diagram and then post it once I back home. Thanks for watching.
@@GapRecordingsNamibia That would be great. I'm a little confused on the resistor.
@@Eric_Tennant oh. Um the brake, I've had no luck with the brake light mate to trigger it from the brake switch that is. This is a very funny input that is grounded when activated, there is a floating potential there but nothing usable. My good mate vortecks2000 on youtube has a full build series on his newest ebike monster using an arduino teensy and some small relays to controll his brake light. I was hoping not to have to go that route but seems that would be the only way to do it... Which also means having to put in a dc dc convertor...
@@GapRecordingsNamibia Hmm side wire to buck dc dc(5v) to transistor? What volts does the brake line transmit back to the controller?
@@Eric_Tennant hi Eric, it does not transmit any signal it just grounds it to common and then the motor drive is cut and depending on what motor you have either regen or not.
Hello. I bought an Yume M11 electric scooter. The scooter came with the rear light broken (the red diffuser ) and because was mounted on the rear fender after a while broke completely. Yume sent me a replacement but now I have no brake light. I changed the connectors between them and the led's are working either 2 either 3 from 5 total which 3 I presume should be for the brake light. I understood that the controller has a low and a high brake wire. Is the high 12V? I will mount a separate brake light but I see other connectors with only 1 wire. It means the wire is only +? If yes which one. And the ground is common with other ground wire? Please help me. [Smile]
Hi Nelu, I am sorry, I have no knowledge of the inner workings of any of the scooters as I own none. You could possibly ask the manufacturer if they can srnd you a schematic, or you might need to google for one. Sorry I can be of no service, you might also be able to google reviews on YT of the M11 broken rear light issue.
Sorry, this is the only advice I am able to offer, my apologies.
Good luck.
@@GapRecordingsNamibia Thank you for your fast answer. Schematics from chinesse manufacturers, I believe is more probably to win a lottery :))). Happy holidays and all the best.
Great video. I have a escooter that got wet and the lights are always now on and can’t be turned off. Would that be a fault with the controller box?
Good day.. I would suspect so, there could be water ingress and there could be either bord damage, part damage or both. It would be wise to open up the controller and inspect this, it sounds as though a FET or some other component has failed in a "short" state causing the on condition. Water ingress, especially where electronics is involved leads to track and part corrosion.
Thank you so much for your reply. I will open up the controller and inspect this.
good job...
i was unclear what the light symbol on your lcd display indicates. my lcd display has the same thing. it show when i turn on the display then the light symbol disappears after about a second. I thought that light symbol is indicating when the back light of the display turns on. On my display i have not figured out how to keep the backlight for the display to stay on yet. or to turn it on and off. do you know?
Hi, yes, that is the correct operation. When switched on, if you connect a light as described then you will see that the light also momentarily switches on and off. The lcd backlight will only switch on with the light signal. If you want this to be on you will need to press and hold the "up" button for 2 seconds, this will turn on the "light" function. Hope this helps you.
@@GapRecordingsNamibia thanks.. Also, I just found the manual for the LCD3. It gives lots of great info about how the LCD works. BTW, did you set up you external light to only go on when the LCD backlight goes on?
@@manp1039 Hi, the two functions are tied together and not independant,. If one is on, so is the other.
I would like to have the diagram, how can i contact you?
Hi Mario, You can follow this link to the STAF forum where I have done a writeup and the circuit digram is also available. Thanks for watching! staf.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=35
The diagram links are down all over the place ... any update on the diagram ?
Hi, I just checked the link in the pinned comment, it does still work, it is hosted on IBB let me know if that does not work.
@@GapRecordingsNamibia just checked the pinned comment and now it works, thanks for the reply from all these years :) using this logic to add brake light from the controller. Silly Chinese controller has 5v signal when brakes are applied. Thanks again
update: finished my test and its all working, just as a heads up your schematic has the source and drain pins flipped. The lamp output - output should be going to the middle pin (Drain). Your video seems to have it wired correctly or else it wouldn't work :)
Great idea overall, updating a few of my little ebikes to now light up the brakes correctly via the controller.
You didn’t explain anything
Really? Well, drop me an email and I'll gladly answer your questions.