Nice visual! Wish he were near Denver as I have a real nice (152k miles) 2016 F350, 6.7 Diesel, that I have been waiting almost 6 months for a new Ford engine. No one willing to troubleshoot this one with a tap or knock. Where is Cleffers Garage?
Did you send the block and crank out to get cleaned and honed, or you did it yourself? Looks good! Also why did you opt to go with a different block other than rebuild the spun bearing motor?
I was going to reuse all the parts from the original but I couldn’t find anyone near me that could line bore a block it had some deep groove in the bearing surfaces. I think I only payed $1000 for the other engine. And that was pretty much a good bottom end except the 4 pistons.
I was just wondering if you put a check valve in the pick up tube on the oil pump. I was videos when they said they had a lot of problem with the oil running back into the Pan after the engine was shut off.
I ended up making one because I wasn’t will to pay the price that was being asked for them. If I was going to buy one it would be something similar to this www.freedomracing.com/engine-removal-bracket-303-1518.html
I can't recall if it was this video, or the previous, but you addressed the tracking of the injectors (as in the injectors are addressed specifically to the computer to fire in the right sequence). Aside from keeping the injectors in order (for the above reason) - is there anything electrical/sequencing that needs to be kept in check/tuned? IE - is Forescan required to do the mechanical tear down and rebuild in order to get it to run right when put back together? If it is - to what degree can a successful rebuild be done and wrapped up without it - as in can the truck be driven until proper tuning/adjustment post-rebuild can be done? Enough to get to a shop to do the tuning? Or beyond? Mine is a 2011 with a bit under 200k miles, barely runs.
i don't think i had to do anything with forscan. i just made sure all the injectors went in the same spot they were. everything just kinda worked. you should be able to do the whole job without a tuner as long as you aren't replacing the injectors.
@@CleffersGarage Do you have any current updates on how the engine is running/holding up? On your first start video it was pretty noisy. Were those issues corrected? And what did you find with the sources of the noise/issues that caused the noise? Thanks!
Valves most likely caused the failure the glow plugs are secondary after the valves fall apart bet it was passenger side I pulled the passenger head off once I got contribution balance codes in 3-4 cylinders and found cracked valves that hadn’t fell apart
I ended up finding a used engine a few hours away from me that had dropped glow plugs in one side. The block looked good just replaced those 4 pistons and the head
I have a question. Was that mayonnaise you used as crank lube? I watched your video and used it on my engine build and now I spun 3 bearings upon start up…
It's awesome that you tackled this at home. It's a very cool rebuild series!
I am surprised it was as easy as it was.
Nice visual! Wish he were near Denver as I have a real nice (152k miles) 2016 F350, 6.7 Diesel, that I have been waiting almost 6 months for a new Ford engine. No one willing to troubleshoot this one with a tap or knock. Where is Cleffers Garage?
With excellent service like this, how come there is no response?
I’m in eastern New Mexico.
Did you send the block and crank out to get cleaned and honed, or you did it yourself? Looks good! Also why did you opt to go with a different block other than rebuild the spun bearing motor?
I was going to reuse all the parts from the original but I couldn’t find anyone near me that could line bore a block it had some deep groove in the bearing surfaces. I think I only payed $1000 for the other engine. And that was pretty much a good bottom end except the 4 pistons.
I was just wondering if you put a check valve in the pick up tube on the oil pump. I was videos when they said they had a lot of problem with the oil running back into the Pan after the engine was shut off.
i don't think i did.
What assembly manual did you follow? Anyway you would mind sharing a link so I can follow along? By chance does it show Ring gap measurements?
Good job man!
Thanks! it's been a fun project so far.
Nice work, doing my 6.7 now. Do you have a link for the plate to lift it from the turbo pedestal?
I ended up making one because I wasn’t will to pay the price that was being asked for them. If I was going to buy one it would be something similar to this www.freedomracing.com/engine-removal-bracket-303-1518.html
I can't recall if it was this video, or the previous, but you addressed the tracking of the injectors (as in the injectors are addressed specifically to the computer to fire in the right sequence).
Aside from keeping the injectors in order (for the above reason) - is there anything electrical/sequencing that needs to be kept in check/tuned? IE - is Forescan required to do the mechanical tear down and rebuild in order to get it to run right when put back together? If it is - to what degree can a successful rebuild be done and wrapped up without it - as in can the truck be driven until proper tuning/adjustment post-rebuild can be done? Enough to get to a shop to do the tuning? Or beyond?
Mine is a 2011 with a bit under 200k miles, barely runs.
i don't think i had to do anything with forscan. i just made sure all the injectors went in the same spot they were. everything just kinda worked. you should be able to do the whole job without a tuner as long as you aren't replacing the injectors.
@@CleffersGarage Do you have any current updates on how the engine is running/holding up? On your first start video it was pretty noisy. Were those issues corrected? And what did you find with the sources of the noise/issues that caused the noise? Thanks!
Valves most likely caused the failure the glow plugs are secondary after the valves fall apart bet it was passenger side I pulled the passenger head off once I got contribution balance codes in 3-4 cylinders and found cracked valves that hadn’t fell apart
I would tig weld the crank gear before you install front cover
I should have now i'm going to always be worried about it.
How much would you charge to do this for a customer ?
What is the torque specs for the rocker arms?
I think I used this. www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB072517-2.pdf
Are you putting the new style fuel pump or the cp4?
Right now I just have the original cp4 in it. I want to get a disaster prevent kit for it and maybe a cp4 that has pinned lobes in it.
@@CleffersGarage just a suggestion, put the money you'd spend on the disaster prevention kit and get the DCR pump instead.
@@jasonsopko2651 oh yeah I forgot got about those I’ll probably do that.
I wish I found this channel earlier. looks good.
Thank you!
When you put it in the bronco. Will you be using a stand alone harness? Or do they even make them yet ?
At the moment the plan is to use everything from the 6.7 truck and maybe remove/code out things with FORScan.
Looking good
Did you use the block out of your donor truck? If so did you find someone locally to clean it?
I ended up finding a used engine a few hours away from me that had dropped glow plugs in one side. The block looked good just replaced those 4 pistons and the head
What was the total cost on this rebuild ?
I think between the new used block and all the gaskets and such it was about $2500
How did you get that cash aluminum so clean?
I used a product called wire wheel cleaner that I got from o'reilly auto parts. It’s behind the counter you have to ask for it
I have a question. Was that mayonnaise you used as crank lube? I watched your video and used it on my engine build and now I spun 3 bearings upon start up…
Didn't weld the crank gear?
No I did not end up welding it
@@CleffersGarage That's one thing that should be done while you're in that deep already.