What I love about the Walmart brand can you use is that I buy them and last year were $4.88 a can and now is $9.88 a can. 🤔 Kinda strange how a 15% inflation becomes more %100.
There's no inflation, just an excuse to send their profit sky high under disguise using the usual imaginary things they say so they'll recover the losses of the previous years against us.
@@ryans413 I was agreeing with you. It's a closed loop system so if you have to add refrigerant you have a leak. The fact that you have a leak doesn't change the fact that it's still a closed loop system. It's just a closed-loop system with a leak. Meaning if it was functioning correctly, you would not have a leak.
You a mechanic? I’ve got a question- I’ve a 2015 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 L and I’m needing a compressor replaced the clutch looks very bad . clutch material is coming out the front and no cold air just warm. What is likelihood the system/ condenser is contaminated? Will I need to replace condenser as well as compressor ?
There's no such thing as simply low.. It's a sealed system and if you had to add there is a leak. At almost $30+ a can now, I'd be adding dye and looking for it
To each their own, my time is worth more than a 10 dollar can each season, if you want to tear into a system hunting an oring or loose connection that looses maybe an ounce a month, go for it.
You are correct but to be honest even the accessories like dye and pay oil have also gone up in price everything ac related is very expensive there almost needs to be another way to get cool air we need Elon musk to invent something 😂. The dye, the black light flashlight, the Pag oil, the injector tool even to inject the dye into the system it’s all expensive
Now just dig a little deeper and find that leak my guy! On those old Chevy's where the fittings go through the firewall into the evaporator is where they like to leak.
Simple tip: ALWAYS had some UV dye before any major intervention on AC. It will pay big time while trying to locate the leakage. Because there is a leak... ;)
My Cadillac Seville STS from 1998 has still it's original AC components that is fully functional. The only time I had to refill it was when I had to replace the sealings on the water pump and oil hoses that was leaking, and another time when the radiator broke in the plastic sides where the hoses for the coolant was flowing, where I had to take out the entire radiator with the condenser for the AC that was emptied. Now everything has been working great for a year, but was also working from the day I bought the car.
@draxoronxztgs1212 My dad bought a 1989 Olds Toronado from his neighbor for $1K in 05. We did a freon retrofit to R134A as the system, for some reason, was empty. It lasted for many years, though it needed additional refrigerant around 5 years after, and he had to junk the car due to it being it's whole life in the rust belt in 2016. The engine did not burn a drop of oil at all. Rust is what killed the car.
As a master tech I can tell you he’s not a mechanic or HVAC specialist. For one like I stated in previous statement is why are you adding refrigerant cuz you don’t just lose frigerant outta nowhere it has escaped somewhere. That’s the question
134A is a mixed gas, you do have to agitate it while charging a 134a system. It's one of the few things he almost got right in this "tutorial". It needs to be a slow rock back and forth from upright to horizontal and repeat while hotshotting. At least for those little hand held cans anyways.
@@travisrussell5731 R134A is a SINGLE COMPONENT refrigerant. Not a blend. Doesn’t matter if gas or liquid. You hold cans upside down same with a single valve cylinder.
@@travisrussell5731 you want to stay away from those cans they lack proper pag oil to lubricant system just go to a shop have them use there machine much cheaper to spend $250 on a recharge then a compressor and dryer
rule of thumb, your car ac temp should be 30-40*less than what it is outside. it was high 90s by us today in se wisconsin, felt like 111*, my vans ac was redone 13 yrs ago and i threw in one of those cans last yr october, today i got it down to 65* and that is astounding
That's not true it depends on the efficiency of the refrigerant. R12 is the most efficient which is why old 80s and early 90s AC systems would literally get below freezing
It may be working, but in service? I have to disagree. There is a reason you had to add freon. System should never be high or low on freon. There is a leak somewhere. Untill it is fixed, system is not fully in service.
Negative on the interwebz search for "what the pressure should be". Vehicle AC systems are critically charged. The only way to ensure its charged correctly is to evacuate it and weigh the new refridgerant going in.
@@antiangelofmusic We're talking ounces here- not something you can feel or eyeball 'close enough'. Without a scale I guarantee you have both under and overcharged systems. If you got away with it and have happy customers that's great but it's not a professional job.
One overlooked point of leakage is the compressor shaft seal. It can leak and be hidden by the clutch, and most of the time that leak will hold a vacuum
This video (actually the comments lol) has convinced me that I most likely have a leak. Now I feel confident in my decision to not try it and glad I returned it when I did 😬
@@s99614 Not true. Air is a non condensable, so it stays in the condenser and causes the head pressure to increase. Also, there is moisture in the air that is introduced into the system, which causes acid formation. Retired commercial hvac/refrigeration technician for 38 years. 😊
My car is 15 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 L and my compressor clutch is bad very worn out. The clutch material is coming out the front. I’m going to replace it and what is the likelihood that system , that is the condenser is contaminated and will need replacing also ?
I have been auto tech/mechanic for 30+ years. Refrigerant does not evaporate if it's low you have a leak somewhere and not that it's really going to matter because it's just going to leak out anyway but vehicles take a certain amount of Refrigerant and if you put to much and there isn't a leak your going to fry your a/c compressor. If you don't know what your doing don't touch it take it to someone that knows what they are doing. Part stores and Walmart shouldn't be able to sell people Refrigerant unless they have a license like the Macs certification I have.
You people should be license to do this because I see so many people doing it wrong overcharging a system locking them up Hydro lock and then this release it you don’t know how to do it correctly take it to somebody it does far as I’m concerned these 12 ounce cans you should have to be licensed to buy them. They need to change the laws we have to get our license if we touch a machine or touch a 30 pound bottle.
Looks like (and the video glances at it) the compressor is leaking at 8 o'clock. Right at where the bracket meets the compressor. Get ready to waste more freon.
@@Incountry Its literally less of an argument to just say that a AC system will generate heat in greater amounts than the cold air it produces due to efficiency loss.
Who's to say it is actually a leak? Everything is relative. $10 for 340 grams of pure r134a is stupid cheap (and it was ~$3 in 2019). A decent low pressure gauge clip is like $20-40 for these cans of pure r134a without stupid leak seals or extra BS. Don't buy the all in one kits because they have extra crap. Many car HVAC systems have small leaks from new... so 5-15 years into service they will need some attention. Do you: A) Trust a shop or dealership do to a drain, refill refill correctly from weight (not PSI) for ~$200-$1000 (i.e. shop rate for this procedure). B) Trust a shop or dealership to identity, repair, and correct an HVAC leak at ship labor rates... plus drain and refill from weight (not PSI) at shop labor rates. C) dump ~340g of r134a in a small $10 can (no sealer or leak die) yourself into your somewhat working HVAC system? Try to purge the "line-set" of a DIY solution the instant before connecting by spritzing the applicator as you apply to the low side, because air and moisture in the tubes are very bad! Most r134a cars need 400-1000g of r134a. If you mess up with an overfill of pure r134a, you can vent some from the low side for, "testing purposes." Testing by venting is completely legal per EPA guidance. Remember r134a was the most common propellant in rhe USA until ~2010... including canned air! You could squirt that stuff to the end of time and the EPA was totally fine with it. Now it's considered a greenhouse gas and it's dangerous. Paented DuPont r1234yf is the state approved replacement effectice 2021. Odd considering the patents for R134a expired a few years ago. Worst case... ~340g of r134a in a can is the equivalent of 5-15 full tanks of gasoline burned in greenhouse warming potential...
Everything is relative. $10 for 340 grams of pure r134a is stupid cheap (and it was ~$3 in 2019). A decent low pressure gauge clip is like $20-40 for these cans of pure r134a without stupid leak seals or extra BS. Don't buy the all in one kits because they have extra crap. Many car HVAC systems have small leaks from new... so 5-15 years into service they will need some attention. Do you: A) Trust a shop or dealership do to a drain, refill refill correctly from weight for ~$200-$1000 B) Trust a shop or dealership to identity and correct an HVAC leak... plus drain and refill from weight. C) dump ~340g of r134a in a small $10 can (no sealer or leak die) yourself into your somewhat working HVAC system? Try to purge the "line-set" of a DIY solution the instant before connecting to the low side, because air and moisture in the tubes are very bad!
Which is an absurd argument. I have all the tools hoses gauges etc to do it but I cannot buy the gas necessary? Psht. The only difference between me and the shops - they pay for certificates I don't.
@@JenniferFuchek there are some professions that are "closed" in some regions, refridgeration is one of them in many places. Meaning they find sneaky ways to sabotage you into not being able to do a job your self if you are not licensed so they assure their income even if they don't do anything serious. For example in some places you can't have a new taxi registration yourself and to do so you have to transfer the license from someone else who already has one and will ask for big bucks $$$$ to sell it to you cause there's only a fixed number or licenses. Other places you have to be a doctor to open your own clinic whereas in most places you can open your own one as long as you follow the code and hire doctors to run it. Only thing they do is making it difficult for others to get into a profession for different excuses just so they wont lose their income.
They get the job done for most people, dont need to spend 5 grand for a full recovery and charging machine. Autozone rents gauges and vacuum pump for free too!
As if you've ever even used a tool on a vehicle 😂 "good brand tools" any real technician knows that one way to fail in your career and end up in debt is paying more for tools than is neccessary. Pittsburgh has a lifetime warranty. I can buy six of them for the price of one mac or snap on, and still not have to wait for a tool truck once a week to get a warranty. The store is right up the road. While you're waiting to have your 1 broken tool replaced for a week, I have already moved on to another ratchet. Expensive tools are for morons that use ratchets for breaker bars, screwdrivers for pry bars, chrome sockets on impacts, etc. A real technician can use the cheapest tools and not breal them because they know not to put a damn pipe on a 3/8" ratchet.
What I love about the Walmart brand can you use is that I buy them and last year were $4.88 a can and now is $9.88 a can. 🤔 Kinda strange how a 15% inflation becomes more %100.
Bidenflation
@@s99614anyone that voted for him should be forced to pay bydenflated prices,,,all us other other should get the 🇺🇲TRUMP🇺🇲 Prices😂
@@s99614bidencomics
Yes so true!
There's no inflation, just an excuse to send their profit sky high under disguise using the usual imaginary things they say so they'll recover the losses of the previous years against us.
Now .. 1 hour later and hot again😢
If you had to add refrigerant you have a leak sir. What you did is only a temporary fix
Exactly. Closed loop system
@@stevebalun9554 if there’s a leak bud it’s no longer a closed loop it open to the air.
@@ryans413 I was agreeing with you. It's a closed loop system so if you have to add refrigerant you have a leak. The fact that you have a leak doesn't change the fact that it's still a closed loop system. It's just a closed-loop system with a leak. Meaning if it was functioning correctly, you would not have a leak.
Totally agree those Walmart fixes from what they sell are temporarily fix ing by extras gonna need them
You a mechanic? I’ve got a question- I’ve a 2015 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 L and I’m needing a compressor replaced the clutch looks very bad . clutch material is coming out the front and no cold air just warm. What is likelihood the system/ condenser is contaminated? Will I need to replace condenser as well as compressor ?
I recharged my 2011 camry 3 years ago. Still 38 coming out the vents today.
There's no such thing as simply low.. It's a sealed system and if you had to add there is a leak. At almost $30+ a can now, I'd be adding dye and looking for it
Even the auto parts store charges $15 a can. Where are you getting your freon?!
Just bought the exact can in the video for $9.99 at walmart two days ago. 🤷♂️
Yes there is a leak and it is illegal to charge a system with a leak a simple bottle of soap water will show you most leaks
To each their own, my time is worth more than a 10 dollar can each season, if you want to tear into a system hunting an oring or loose connection that looses maybe an ounce a month, go for it.
You are correct but to be honest even the accessories like dye and pay oil have also gone up in price everything ac related is very expensive there almost needs to be another way to get cool air we need Elon musk to invent something 😂. The dye, the black light flashlight, the Pag oil, the injector tool even to inject the dye into the system it’s all expensive
Now just dig a little deeper and find that leak my guy! On those old Chevy's where the fittings go through the firewall into the evaporator is where they like to leak.
Or under the rear quarter panel in the bends in the lines
Simple tip: ALWAYS had some UV dye before any major intervention on AC. It will pay big time while trying to locate the leakage. Because there is a leak... ;)
Dat dare is a 90’s GM product so your cold for about 22 more hrs then off to Walmart for new can of R134 😂
My Cadillac Seville STS from 1998 has still it's original AC components that is fully functional.
The only time I had to refill it was when I had to replace the sealings on the water pump and oil hoses that was leaking, and another time when the radiator broke in the plastic sides where the hoses for the coolant was flowing, where I had to take out the entire radiator with the condenser for the AC that was emptied.
Now everything has been working great for a year, but was also working from the day I bought the car.
@draxoronxztgs1212 My dad bought a 1989 Olds Toronado from his neighbor for $1K in 05. We did a freon retrofit to R134A as the system, for some reason, was empty. It lasted for many years, though it needed additional refrigerant around 5 years after, and he had to junk the car due to it being it's whole life in the rust belt in 2016. The engine did not burn a drop of oil at all. Rust is what killed the car.
Gotta fix the leak
I find it so crazy that mechanics can work on car engines and everything else but have almost no understanding of the refrigeration cycle. It’s wild
What do you mean? This guy on the video?
As a master tech I can tell you he’s not a mechanic or HVAC specialist. For one like I stated in previous statement is why are you adding refrigerant cuz you don’t just lose frigerant outta nowhere it has escaped somewhere. That’s the question
@@eliezerramosjr1017 he's also putting R-134 in what is probably an R-12 system. You're going to have oil problems. 😢
You didn’t fix the leak, so you’ll be doing it again. Maybe don’t advise people to waste refrigerant like that.
Did you fix the leak?
Leak…vacuum…purge line
Don’t shake the can maneeee😂
134A is a mixed gas, you do have to agitate it while charging a 134a system. It's one of the few things he almost got right in this "tutorial". It needs to be a slow rock back and forth from upright to horizontal and repeat while hotshotting. At least for those little hand held cans anyways.
@@travisrussell5731 R134A is a SINGLE COMPONENT refrigerant. Not a blend. Doesn’t matter if gas or liquid. You hold cans upside down same with a single valve cylinder.
@@travisrussell5731 you want to stay away from those cans they lack proper pag oil to lubricant system just go to a shop have them use there machine much cheaper to spend $250 on a recharge then a compressor and dryer
rule of thumb, your car ac temp should be 30-40*less than what it is outside. it was high 90s by us today in se wisconsin, felt like 111*, my vans ac was redone 13 yrs ago and i threw in one of those cans last yr october, today i got it down to 65* and that is astounding
That's not true it depends on the efficiency of the refrigerant. R12 is the most efficient which is why old 80s and early 90s AC systems would literally get below freezing
For even colder air learn how to bypass the heater core. Flip a switch and the ac gets 20 deg colder. Great for hot climates and traffic.
20° cooler than the 38° in this video is going to be a system freezing up. There are systems in place that won't let it go that cold.
Wow!Adding refrigerant with out doing a vacuumed for leaks!!😂😂
Likely a slow leak. Check for leaks if this leaks out quickly.
It may be working, but in service? I have to disagree. There is a reason you had to add freon. System should never be high or low on freon. There is a leak somewhere. Untill it is fixed, system is not fully in service.
Why is it low?
Negative on the interwebz search for "what the pressure should be". Vehicle AC systems are critically charged. The only way to ensure its charged correctly is to evacuate it and weigh the new refridgerant going in.
I don't have a scale. You can get close enough. None of my customers have ever complained about their air not being cold enough.
@@antiangelofmusic We're talking ounces here- not something you can feel or eyeball 'close enough'. Without a scale I guarantee you have both under and overcharged systems. If you got away with it and have happy customers that's great but it's not a professional job.
@@blackmesaresearch2 😂
@@blackmesaresearch2 look at pressures and get a good feel for the can and you should get close enough
And where was it leaking from?
The question is is there a leak in the system cuz you just don’t lose refrigerant outta nowhere.
i work at a scrap yard an we have so much r134a we dont know what to do with it all lol.
It's being phased out. HOLD ONTO IT! it'll be worth it's weight in gold in 10-15 years
@@brothertyler 5 years.
I don’t believe it was in the 30s for inside temperature
Well you have a leak. Facts
Try finding the leak first
Harrison compressor ... what a dog.
A \ C pressure ambient temperature relationship chart .
As a general rule, high side should be 2.5 ambient. And that looks like an r12 system that had a 134a retrofit
Good ole days of sight glass
Frion never goes bad therefore you have a small leak
I have two 1998 Ford Crown Vics either AC system was ever touch and both run ice cold, everyone says I'm full of crap😢
My 97 f250 is the same way
We have a 91 nissan stanza with 135k miles and the a/c only needed recharged and it blows ice cold still
I just tie off a vein and shoot some R134a upstream 😂😂🥶💀
How is the temp at idle
One overlooked point of leakage is the compressor shaft seal. It can leak and be hidden by the clutch, and most of the time that leak will hold a vacuum
how do you tell? /fix it for cheap?
What is that rig that he has to fill up the refrigerant
36.5° is frosty ⛄️ 🥶 🧊!
Until it leaks out again. Just a band aid fix.
Which internet site has that chart?
I hope you purged out the hoses with Freon before opening up the can or you blew air from the hoses into the system. 😬
This video (actually the comments lol) has convinced me that I most likely have a leak. Now I feel confident in my decision to not try it and glad I returned it when I did 😬
What chart did you download from the internet?
Yea my truck is doing the same thing
And now, with the new R-1234yf refrigerant, you get to pay 3 times as much to cool your car off! THANKS, GOVERNMENT!
thank Biden and the democrats. You KNOW who is doing this to you.
AND, it's flammable. 😮
Yes when low pressure and won't cool your vehicle down need high pressure plus refill up be big difference!
I'm not a mechanic, I check the strader value had a leak, got a value wrench and fix the problem what a good quess!
Did you just check w soap n water?
@@brianb5779 you can but a lot of them fail under vacuum but work fine under pressure
@@Chargifyx Thank you
@@brianb5779 quick tip use nylon for leaking service ports it seals them right up and Orings after replacing a part
@@Chargifyx Really appreciate that, thanks man
That’s perfect 38
If you didn't purge the line first, you've just introduced outside air into your sealed system.
A tiny amount of air into a leaking system isn't going to make a difference.
@@s99614 Not true. Air is a non condensable, so it stays in the condenser and causes the head pressure to increase. Also, there is moisture in the air that is introduced into the system, which causes acid formation. Retired commercial hvac/refrigeration technician for 38 years. 😊
@@darrylsjodin7184 does the oil turning to acid applys to pag oil in cars?
@@Chargifyx The air and moisture creates the acid and contaminates the oil.
@@darrylsjodin7184 can a contaminated system show normal pressures but still not cool effetely?
Wheres the leak...? 😂😂
Cool video
Until it leaks out again...
Question is WHY you have to add🤷
So having the proper refrigerant charge makes the air conditioning put out cold air? So that's what 134a does! Interesting.
Hold the can upside down!
please come fix my truck
Is there any leaks?
If so.. putting new refrigerant in the system is a waste.
depends of how fast it leaks out I spend how much ever idk if it means ac is working
350??
My car is 15 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 L and my compressor clutch is bad very worn out. The clutch material is coming out the front. I’m going to replace it and what is the likelihood that system , that is the condenser is contaminated and will need replacing also ?
umm if its just the clutch them the inside of the system won't be contaminated
@@Chargifyx yeah still going strong thank God 👍
@@frankmontez6853 it makes me wonder tho why is the clutch so worn rapid cycling? maybe just an old car?
I have been auto tech/mechanic for 30+ years. Refrigerant does not evaporate if it's low you have a leak somewhere and not that it's really going to matter because it's just going to leak out anyway but vehicles take a certain amount of Refrigerant and if you put to much and there isn't a leak your going to fry your a/c compressor. If you don't know what your doing don't touch it take it to someone that knows what they are doing. Part stores and Walmart shouldn't be able to sell people Refrigerant unless they have a license like the Macs certification I have.
I get my $2 a can Freezeon from a guy that knows a guy that gets it from another guy.
My older Chevy blew snowflakes.
🔥🔥🔥💪🏼💪🏼
You people should be license to do this because I see so many people doing it wrong overcharging a system locking them up Hydro lock and then this release it you don’t know how to do it correctly take it to somebody it does far as I’m concerned these 12 ounce cans you should have to be licensed to buy them. They need to change the laws we have to get our license if we touch a machine or touch a 30 pound bottle.
If you have to look up what your lowside pressure should be, you don't need to be working on MVAC/HVAC, let alone be trying to "teach" it to others.
You lost me at Pittsburg gauges
Looks like (and the video glances at it) the compressor is leaking at 8 o'clock. Right at where the bracket meets the compressor. Get ready to waste more freon.
I love that as smart as we think we are we just keep burning things to cool off lol
Obviously energy produces heat. If we want to produce something to cool air it’s going to cause something else to get hot
@@LuhApollo98793Yeah and that thing we are heating up is the earth. Seems like a perfect system
@@infernaldaedra
It’s obvious you have no idea how a AC system works….
@@Incountry 🥴🥴
@@Incountry Its literally less of an argument to just say that a AC system will generate heat in greater amounts than the cold air it produces due to efficiency loss.
That's a video?
Yep she cold, brrrr
Your *
Did you fix the leak??
Who's to say it is actually a leak?
Everything is relative. $10 for 340 grams of pure r134a is stupid cheap (and it was ~$3 in 2019). A decent low pressure gauge clip is like $20-40 for these cans of pure r134a without stupid leak seals or extra BS. Don't buy the all in one kits because they have extra crap.
Many car HVAC systems have small leaks from new... so 5-15 years into service they will need some attention. Do you:
A) Trust a shop or dealership do to a drain, refill refill correctly from weight (not PSI) for ~$200-$1000 (i.e. shop rate for this procedure).
B) Trust a shop or dealership to identity, repair, and correct an HVAC leak at ship labor rates... plus drain and refill from weight (not PSI) at shop labor rates.
C) dump ~340g of r134a in a small $10 can (no sealer or leak die) yourself into your somewhat working HVAC system? Try to purge the "line-set" of a DIY solution the instant before connecting by spritzing the applicator as you apply to the low side, because air and moisture in the tubes are very bad!
Most r134a cars need 400-1000g of r134a. If you mess up with an overfill of pure r134a, you can vent some from the low side for, "testing purposes." Testing by venting is completely legal per EPA guidance. Remember r134a was the most common propellant in rhe USA until ~2010... including canned air! You could squirt that stuff to the end of time and the EPA was totally fine with it. Now it's considered a greenhouse gas and it's dangerous. Paented DuPont r1234yf is the state approved replacement effectice 2021. Odd considering the patents for R134a expired a few years ago.
Worst case... ~340g of r134a in a can is the equivalent of 5-15 full tanks of gasoline burned in greenhouse warming potential...
Backyard bs fixes
So your freon leaked out, and you added some more? Thousands of people do this every day. Why is this a CZcams video?
This is why the environment is going to s..t
Overfilling will wreck your system.
If you have a leak, overfilling it a little isn't so bad because it's going to correct itself eventually anyway.
Overfilling with refrigerant oil will also greatly diminish performance.
I can attest to overfilling will wreck your system. I blew up my compressor.😅 back in the day
Well you have a leak and will be adding Freon very soon again
Everything is relative. $10 for 340 grams of pure r134a is stupid cheap (and it was ~$3 in 2019). A decent low pressure gauge clip is like $20-40 for these cans of pure r134a without stupid leak seals or extra BS. Don't buy the all in one kits because they have extra crap.
Many car HVAC systems have small leaks from new... so 5-15 years into service they will need some attention. Do you:
A) Trust a shop or dealership do to a drain, refill refill correctly from weight for ~$200-$1000
B) Trust a shop or dealership to identity and correct an HVAC leak... plus drain and refill from weight.
C) dump ~340g of r134a in a small $10 can (no sealer or leak die) yourself into your somewhat working HVAC system? Try to purge the "line-set" of a DIY solution the instant before connecting to the low side, because air and moisture in the tubes are very bad!
But you still leak.
I wish i could buy refrigerant, it's illegal to sell it to non-professionals due to environmental concerns.
You can get it easier than you think the same way you can buy things that are illegal to sell due to health concerns.
Which is an absurd argument.
I have all the tools hoses gauges etc to do it but I cannot buy the gas necessary? Psht. The only difference between me and the shops - they pay for certificates I don't.
@@JenniferFuchek there are some professions that are "closed" in some regions, refridgeration is one of them in many places. Meaning they find sneaky ways to sabotage you into not being able to do a job your self if you are not licensed so they assure their income even if they don't do anything serious.
For example in some places you can't have a new taxi registration yourself and to do so you have to transfer the license from someone else who already has one and will ask for big bucks $$$$ to sell it to you cause there's only a fixed number or licenses.
Other places you have to be a doctor to open your own clinic whereas in most places you can open your own one as long as you follow the code and hire doctors to run it.
Only thing they do is making it difficult for others to get into a profession for different excuses just so they wont lose their income.
It's literally on the shelf at walmart
@@contraband1543 And my nearest Walmart is across the atlantic ocean.
Are you even a real mechanic? 😂you should know the proper way to fix it
Hey Brother your supposed to hold the can upside-down!!! 😮
Not in Washington. Oregon. Or california. You cannot recharge your own A/C need to be a certified AC tech. No R 134 a available to DIY techs
stop lying. Magnuson Ferguson act makes any ordinance or order against self repair unlawful.
Liberal cesspools 😂
I think you are refering to Freon
BS !!
Refilled my 134a in California. Readily available everywhere.
Using Pittsburgh tools 😂🙄. Hellllll nah!!! I rather use good brand tools when working on vehicles.
Nerd
They get the job done for most people, dont need to spend 5 grand for a full recovery and charging machine. Autozone rents gauges and vacuum pump for free too!
As if you've ever even used a tool on a vehicle 😂 "good brand tools" any real technician knows that one way to fail in your career and end up in debt is paying more for tools than is neccessary.
Pittsburgh has a lifetime warranty. I can buy six of them for the price of one mac or snap on, and still not have to wait for a tool truck once a week to get a warranty. The store is right up the road.
While you're waiting to have your 1 broken tool replaced for a week, I have already moved on to another ratchet.
Expensive tools are for morons that use ratchets for breaker bars, screwdrivers for pry bars, chrome sockets on impacts, etc.
A real technician can use the cheapest tools and not breal them because they know not to put a damn pipe on a 3/8" ratchet.