Did 1000's of threads like this when I was a Tool and Die maker. Broke one here and there had to EDM it out, usually 6/32 and smaller if one did break. Re-tapped a hole once where a 1/2 in bolt was broken off and there was a tiny piece of bolt left in the old thread after drilling it out and it broke the tap and it hit me right in the middle of eyes and cut my nose. Never again did I not have on safety glasses. But yeah this works great %99.5 of the time.
preaching to the choir. I’m glad you didn’t get hurt. I’ve had many close calls as well as soon as we stray from the guidelines. Bad things happen. Thanks for your comment and thank you for sharing Ray
Two things I'll add are that a Jacobs Super Chuck (with key) works better than a keyless, and for tool steel or dull tap as he mentioned I will still use the mill to start the tap. With the chuck hand tight it will slip when the tap gets tight but by then it is started straight and you can hand tap it from there. Good video though.
I agree with everything you said Not a big fan of the keyless chuck’s I also like taking the end of the key putting it inside one of the tightening holes with the mill in neutral using the chuck key to drive the chuck
Those straight flute taps work good in cast iron. Personally I'd never attempt a spiral flute in a manual mill, they are the weakest of taps and required the most cutting force.
Good info, would have been nice to actually be able to see what controls you are using, don't need to see the tap turning as much for the purpose of the video
For drilling and taping on manual milling machine, having VFD and powerfeed using stepper really solve a lot of issues. Moving from point A to B very accurately (program using controller) I use Nema86 -8NM. And I don't have 3 phase power system so I use VFD instead. Programming and having a lot of option to control the motor. 4 buttons - forward -reverse - jog forward and reverse. The best thing is you can adjust the torque settings and start and stop duration. And VFD is also a good option for protecting motor and cheaper since I got mine for less than 100$ comparing to Contactor and those expensive switches and buttons.
Did 1000's of threads like this when I was a Tool and Die maker. Broke one here and there had to EDM it out, usually 6/32 and smaller if one did break. Re-tapped a hole once where a 1/2 in bolt was broken off and there was a tiny piece of bolt left in the old thread after drilling it out and it broke the tap and it hit me right in the middle of eyes and cut my nose. Never again did I not have on safety glasses. But yeah this works great %99.5 of the time.
preaching to the choir. I’m glad you didn’t get hurt. I’ve had many close calls as well as soon as we stray from the guidelines. Bad things happen.
Thanks for your comment and thank you for sharing
Ray
Thanks for the real people narration.
Two things I'll add are that a Jacobs Super Chuck (with key) works better than a keyless, and for tool steel or dull tap as he mentioned I will still use the mill to start the tap. With the chuck hand tight it will slip when the tap gets tight but by then it is started straight and you can hand tap it from there. Good video though.
I agree with everything you said
Not a big fan of the keyless chuck’s
I also like taking the end of the key putting it inside one of the tightening holes with the mill in neutral using the chuck key to drive the chuck
Great video, I hope your apprentices listen well
thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking time to comment
Ray
Thanks Raymond, Good video.
the red tapping oil is CIMTAP II
Solid video as normal. Very informative.
thank you for your comment
Ray
Muito bom. Excelente aula !
thank you
Ray
Those straight flute taps work good in cast iron. Personally I'd never attempt a spiral flute in a manual mill, they are the weakest of taps and required the most cutting force.
Good info, would have been nice to actually be able to see what controls you are using, don't need to see the tap turning as much for the purpose of the video
will keep that in mind
thank you for commenting
Ray
For drilling and taping on manual milling machine, having VFD and powerfeed using stepper really solve a lot of issues. Moving from point A to B very accurately (program using controller) I use Nema86 -8NM. And I don't have 3 phase power system so I use VFD instead. Programming and having a lot of option to control the motor. 4 buttons - forward -reverse - jog forward and reverse. The best thing is you can adjust the torque settings and start and stop duration. And VFD is also a good option for protecting motor and cheaper since I got mine for less than 100$ comparing to Contactor and those expensive switches and buttons.
Fantastic sharing of information. Much appreciated.