Auto-body Filler "BONDO" Metal Restoration
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2023
- Today I attempt to use auto body filler "bondo" for the first time. Let's see what happens. VW Beetle Metal Restoration.
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Repair came out nice, very impressive for a 1st time go at it 👍
Thanks buddy! =)
not bad. I was expecting the bondo to dry up before he was spreading it......anticipation....But somehow he got it on there before it dried.
Good work. I find that doing Bondo is like doing drywall. I go about four inches on either side of seam so it makes it easier to feather the edges out.
Good tip! 😎😎😎
You don’t need to guide-coat filler and you finished a great job at 26:14s
Great to be in your journey 🤙🏻
I’ll start the votes for Painting the bug ✅
Thanks Mark! 😎
I am one of your followers from Sudan, I love the Beatles and I support you ❤️🇸🇩
Youre doing pretty good, one light criticism on the blocking technique. I was always taught to hold a block horizontal in this case and move it diagonally. Use the long block. Guide coat only when youre getting real close and using spot putty or my favorite, Dolphin Glaze. Remember to put some seam sealer on the back side of your welds where it wont show and prevent moisture from getting in the back side.
But then again youre just a keyboard bondo guy
You are using too much hardener, that's why it's drying on you quickly. Pea size hardener to golf ball filler, general rule of thumb. You also need to feather it in on the panel so its not noticeable when sanded.
Good tip thank you!
Yeah a little goEs a long way
Hello mate. Looking good, especially for a first time! Well done. We're getting there!
You can get a lot longer to apply the filler if you use less hardener. I'd guess maybe about half the amount you're currently using.
The panel you're on is large enough and flat enough to not need the small sanding block - you'll get low spots. Just use the big one.
To be honest though, you're doing a patina ride here - the paint will be patchy and rust-look, so will easily hide small low spots like the one you mention here. You don't need to get it perfect.
Keep it up mate you're doing great.
Thanks buddy! 😎😎😎
The filler I've used said walnut-sized lump of filler and pea-sized drop of hardener. That gives you about ten minutes I think.
34:35 the bottom edge is low. you probably need some glazing or more filler all the way along the bottom of the fill spot. You could do it after primer. It will be easier to see. because with guide coat on the primer it will look like a dent. Best to do it before that but especially your first time it will make it easier.
I went to Mid-Florida Tech for paint and autobody in 1989 for a year. I quickly realized after I started doing body work with body filler and fiberglass that I made a mistake. With that said, they tought me the same techniques you are using.
Nice progress!
Muito bom! Vai ficar ótimo. Tenho uma dica que talvez você já tenha utilizado, mas para remover ferrugem superficial e tinta velha, experimente utilizar o strip disc que não agride a chapa metalica.
Parabéns esse fusca está ficando muito bom. Show 🇧🇷 🇧🇷 🇧🇷 🇧🇷
Nice work CT! Bodywork is tedious. Yours is coming out nicely!
Thanks Slade!
Given the heat and humidity, using a little less hardener would probably keep it from setting up as quickly
Good idea! Thank you!
Coming along CT! 👍🏻 As a suggestion, when you sand "with" the repair line you take too much material from the middle. Sanding across the surface "against" the line will remove the high spots much more accurately. You can also use a straight edge across the flat surface to check for the high and low spots visually which I believe is a much better way than feeling for those. Thanks for posting the progress. I'm really excited to see all the body work get completed. Are you going to paint those sections that you're repairing with a faux rust color of some kind?
I think he is going to put a faux rust color on the repairs. He needs to get in touch with Zach from the channel Ultimate Rebuilds. He made a modern VW bug with the rust patina. The guy knows how to paint.
@@Zjedi I'd be tempted to do something that looks like a proper "I don't care" repair - weld, fill, then grab a rattle can that remotely ressembles the original colour and spray without masking anything.
Thanks Stew! 😎😎😎
Hi CT, Man your doing some great work! Looks s good! Maybe some of the glazing putty now! I was thinking that you should try to use metal prep on the metal before the body filler. It’s basically wiping the metal phosphoric acid which reacts with steel to form a micro layer iron phosphate. This micro layer promotes adhesion and corrosion prevention. Cheers!
Hey Graem! Thanks buddy! I was thinking that might be be good idea. I will try that on the next section this week.
As soon as you get that all one color you need to right away start spreading it. Goes off really fast. That is why I had you do one golf ball at a time. As you get better you can mix up more at a time. then spread it a little thicker. practice makes perfect. That is why I dont usually show using filler on camera because it goes off so fast that I cant keep filming and spreading it.
Can’t wait for the repaint so that it finally looks nice
I’ve never done any body work or filler myself! But I’ve seen people doing it and I knew people with body shop’s that did that type of work! And to me look’s like you’re doing a fine job! As always! Looking great CT!👌😎👍 looking forward for the next chapter!
Thanks buddy! I appreciate that! =)
CT thanks for wining a bet for me, I said it was going to start to harden before you where done with it and bet 10 bucks and I won lol thanks again...
HAHA! =) No problem!
Keep practicin' mixin' the dough..........you'll get it!
Thanks man!
Love this so far, if your just going to make it old I will stop, you have gone this far I would just make it new. Always wanted one of those, but a sunroof car like the original Herbie.
Thanks Brian! =)
@@CTmoog Keep up the great wok...
Another fantastic video
Thank you! =)
those pros can feel the levelness that is quite a skill
I would actually put a little less hardener to keep the goop from drying too quickly...
Coming along well 🤙
Excellent video!
CT
Good afternoon
Great video
Extremely didactic
I am wondering ? Should you weld that panelbfrom the inside, would end different?
Hey Joe, thanks buddy! No welding on the outside is best I think.
I love the smell of Bondo in the morning!
HAHA! =) Yes, it's not bad really!
Good day good work, only a pair of suggestions, first your bondo seems kind of old should be more fluid, get a new can and second and most important your using too much hardener that's why it gets so unworkable so fast, just use a third or even a half less than you're using, i hope these comment would help, regards from Mexico
Thanks Roberto! =)
You cannot identify low spots until you have got rid of the high spots. Start by using a long straight edge over the filled area to see where it's high. On a curved surface you can roll the straight edge. You can use a body file or DA sander to rough down the filler. When you have got rid of most of the high spots you can change to a long block that covers the whole area. In a situation like this, keep the block horizontal and make sure that on a curved surface of this sort you follow the contour of the panel. Don't use a small block on a large panel; you will almost certainly produce flat areas. You will almost certainly think that you have feathered the edges enough before you actually have: they may not show up too much with a matt finish but a gloss surface will show up the smallest irregularity. Proper filling takes a long time, which is a major reason why really good body repairs are so expensive. If you're patient enough, you'll get there in the end, so good luck.
CT you should be adding filler primer, after the first time sanding the area, also rust should be sanded back at least 3 inches from the repair area, looking good, keep going.
TSN
nice to see how you do it, my dad and i have a 1962 bug with the saxomatic gearbox and clutch, with the original papers
Thanks Straight Ahead ✌😎
Thanks man!
Saludos de Mexico CT
ct this is my first comment and please and forget about the patina adina and start iron brush all rust and prime so we can see some good result, thehall idea of this projeect is to look a zani old car. like mike nn for exanple.start prime and paint part of this project. i"m getting frustrated about it and i want to see resuts. thank you.
Hello Eugenio! =) I will think about it.
Otimo trabalho. Perfeito 👏👏👏
Since you going for a certain look, you may not want to make it too perfect that it does not match the rest of the car. The amount of harder you mix in will get you more time or less time to work with it. Good first time!
Thanks Richard!
Hi.! Good Job, excelent.!
I've actually used Drywall Sanding Screen (steel mesh ) to sand down the Bondo patches .. it works quite well..
And you may consider investing in a Pneumatic Airfile ( compressed air body sander )
Thumbs Up on the progress !
😇❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks Angel! I appreciate it! =)
Feather it in well👍
Thanks Atom! 😎😎😎
I think you will find your feel and be a good body guy...like riding a bike 😊👍you will find the tools that you like the best.
Thanks Todd! I appreciate that buddy! =)
Looking great but there comes a moment when you need to stop sanding or you’ll make the new metal disappear 😂
Thanks man! 🤣
Once you get the feel of it you will get it. Glad you got the spot primer see if your to high or low to be honest CT i hate body work i restored an old ford in my younger days its a pain in the backside once you get the feel of it you will know keep up the good work CT 🗜🔨🛠😁
I'm an uneducated oaf so take this with a grain of salt. But once I get the filler close I use a different color primer and sand to blend it further. She's gonna be nice man.
I’ve always put fiberglass filler over my weld seams to seal them better. Then body filler over that. Also, use the longest sanding block. I would have stopped after the first guide coat came off and you had that one low spot. Go out roughly 4” on each side of the weld. Stop when the guide coat comes off.
Use a rag between your hand and the work surface, the rag will tell you highs and lows. A. Good practice is to allow for finish work with final grades of sand paper
Thanks for the tip James!
You keep standing until the block sander, sans everything off evenly take your ruler make sure you’re not destroying your profile of the body panel.
I wonder if it needs to be metal shrunk if theres a high below the seam.
Can you mention what videos you watched concerning working with Body filler, please
@33 seconds into the video - Never ever ever - set sand paper or a sander on the shop floor face down with the abrasive paper touching the floor!!!!! you can pick up sand and grit that will mess up what your trying to sand, and MORE IMPORTANTLY you could get some oil, grease or other bad stuff that will now get ground into the part youre sanding and cause mystery Fish-eyes that you cant stop later!!!
youre using WAY too much hardener- like twice or more than you should, it'll make it "Go-Off" too quick, besides run out of catalyst before the product in the can is used up- a golf ball sized glob of Bondo takes a Garbanzo-bean sized ball of catalyst
Ona weld seam like that, I would stay away from the short blocks and DA more and stick with the longer one you had, you might want a air-file/sander to be able to keep things flat? also work the long block on the TOPS SIDE some more too, you kept concentrating on the lower repair panel and the bondo seam, and hardly broke into the rusty original metal above.... youre close now, maybe some fill & sand or high-build primer, and some 220-grit next, more guide coat, then glazing putty (I use a product from NAPA called "Icing" or something like cake frosting in the name?) if you want that line to disappear remember to stay long with your boards and try not to go with short little blocks that will introduce waves and dips-
MIKE F STYLE.....ha ha.
I told him with the way he’s going he’ll be getting results like on your ‘54 in the not too distant future. 😉
Bom dia , quando ,vc vai finalizar o KARMA GUIA , vai colocar um motor de alta performance ??🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
I've never used a rasp to flatten filler. And tended to use a flat square sander rather than a D.A.
Golf ball to pea ratio is correct gives a linger cure time letting you smooth it easier.
Thanks Stuart! Good tip!
A bit too mutch hardener? Regards Stig Österberg from Dalsbruk 6
Hi CT DOING GOOD FOR FIRST TIME JUST ONE THING YOU CAN USE A GLAZE FOR THE LOW SPOTS JUST THE SAME AS USING FILLERS BUT READY MIXED AND EASY TO SANB WHEN DRY, PS IT ALL COMES DOWN TO HOW IT FEELS AND ANY IMPERFECTIONS WILL SHOW MORE WHEN YOU PRIMER IT.
CT, you need some merch. BAD! 😊
Hey Stew! Good idea! =) I'll work on it.
does that paint show the high spots looks like?
Body filler takes practice. You have to learn how much hardener to put and how fast it will cure. The cheese grater should be used to get a general shape. If you cant dent the filler with your fingernail you have waited too long. With the cheese grater you will knock off about 75% of the filler. The grater will also allow the gasses to escape from the filler helping it cure faster. The second layer should be thinner and cover the entire panel being repaired. Using a coarse grit paper knock off all the filler you just applied. The third layer should also be thin over the entire panel. The DA comes out at this point. The fourth layer same thing entire panel then bust out the blocks. High build primer with more blocking. The primer will show you the low spots. I found if you do not do the entire panel and just do the dents and ding areas it comes out looking like a sack full of walnuts. By applying it in layers and knocking it down will actually save time not money. You will also see all the highs and lows. You have to learn by doing. My last bug I did in the garage I used 3 gallons of filler and sanded off 2.5 gallons, but the body is like a mirror. I am no expert but I did learn this method from the Bondo Bandito. He was doing production body work for years. Here are 3 photos for example.
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All the way to the bottom of the panel. And at least 3in above. Aside from that , looks good
CT, get in touch with Zach from the channel Ultimate Rebuilds when you get ready to paint the repair panels. He painted a morden VW bug to have a rusty patina look. I believe that he lives in Florida as well.
CT you keep surprising me with your abilities, even though you always say you are not this or that, etc....I am a constant follower of your Beetle build up since the beginning, what a transformation! I have a couple of questions concerning the mating of the Napoleon Hat and the Heaters Exchangers. My Heaters Exchangers overall conditions are good, but at the front they are rusted by the location where the nuts are welded to them and are loose. My question is , will it be able to some how be repaired and how or will I need to replaced the entire Heat Exchangers all together??? Hope you can help me on this, I am new at this and truing to save as much money as I can in the process in order to invest in other important items, like the tranny, engine, paint, etc. Thank you for your time and will be waiting for your next video!
You can add a bit of fiberglass polyester resin to the putty. It makes it creamier and easier to feather in.
Mate if you mix on paper it draws the moisture out and hardens it befor you can applies also finnish whith wet and dry to fan out edge
Thanks Raymond. This is 3M paper made specifically for filler. Maybe it's different then regular paper?
For real? No primer under the filler?
Bonjour C T vous avez utiliser un bon mastic pour enlever les démarcations de la soudure
éviter de mettre trop de durcisseur pour éviter le séchage rapide
Pour faire un rendu peinture il faut faire une finition avec du mastic spéciale peinture
ponçage à l'eau à grains fin 600 /1500 sans rayure sur la tôle
Bon courage C T
Did the insructions for the filler say to put it diretly on bare metal? In over 60 years I have never put filler on bare metal because if the filler holds miosture you are making a place for further rust under paintwork.
Hi CT ,
looks really good , but the cheese grater is to rough - makes scratches .
Only sanding down .
It's difficult to say , where you hit the right depth .
I practiced over years on my cars .
In the end there has to be only a fine layer of filler .
Just FYI, the "BONDO" (fiberglass resin, epoxy, etc.) doesn't dry, as it does not harden via solvent evaporation. Instead, the curing (hardening) is a chemical process. Sorry if I'm being AR.
Way too much hardner
Top tip, put the filler on evenly and then leave it alone, don’t poke it around or go over it more than a couple of times to start with
Fuscão ficando jóia 🏆🏆🟩🟨
When u put it on run your mixer long ways so it’s even when u block it insted of going up and down
Good idea! Thanks buddy! =)
@@CTmoog ofc I love your vids I’ve been watching this series since the beginning every video every second of it I’m so excited to see it finished and I always give your vids a like
MikeFn garage style😊 never done body work either but my guess is you need to keep sanding on the gray area till it looks like the back side before adding anymore filler. Maybe on the very back end add a little where the metal is showing
Mike's right looks like more filler is needed on the lower end
Can you use a steel rule to get the level?
I always can get things a lot better but getting it perfect is still a goal for me. Lots of elbow work.
The more heidner you put in it the more pinholes you will get 💥💥
Good tip! =)
Add a little icing spot filler in the low spot.
They say a golf ball of filler, to a bean of hardener
Thanks Danny!
LoL 😂this made me laugh ..I pictured someone using an ice cream scoop to measure out the bondo
HaHa **gigglesnotgiggle** 🤣..definitely giving this comment a thumbs up !
😇❤
You’re putting too much hardener in CT! Less hardener gives you longer working time! 👍👍🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🤘🏻🤘🏻
Buy the Linear blocks….they are expensive but well worth the $$$ for making body filler and primer
Don't worry about the highs and lows if you're going to leave the car patina
You have to be fast with bondo, try using a little less hardener for small amounts, if you use too much hardener it will harden up on you too soon and cause you to waist the bondo. Talk to your buddy out in California, he is very good at body work. I do know that you need to keep the DA perfectly flat with the surface at all times and make long passes with your sanding block, do not go sideways with your sanding block. Also if you see that you have a low spot, stop and add more filler before you go too far and have to add filler to the whole panel and have to start over, I think you need to start over because you went too far.
I would sugggest you try and go over it and cover it with bondo on it and on the body of the car so you get body work done and then feel it then see if can complete all of car on all sides where you can get all done with bondo filler .make sure you that you don't feel any bumps on it and do it again to until don't any more spot where you had any welds don't show on to it .
When in doubt, high build primer.
Thanks man! I'm picking up some this week.
Alway have a second patch for filling ,any left over ,you can use that up ,less waste
Instead of waiting for his second coat of filler to go on before you start using the DA and the block sending trade sanding each coat that way you get the feathering down a lot easier without trying to knock out at a real high spot.
If it looks good, it is good.
Next time, try wet sanding it
Looks like you are applying the filler too thick. Your first coat should just fill in the divots and low spots. Sanding this layer should leave shiny metal with islands of filler. Then use the paint to indicate areas that need more filler / hammering down. don't get me wrong, your method is working but requires MUCH more sanding.
Use a little less hardener
Too much hardener bro
I think over time you figure out what is high and low but not too much
Thanks Terry!
when youre cleaning that dust off more dont use tack cloth its oily use just a rag and water
Good evening my friend my name is Hedigardi I am from Brazil it is a pleasure to meet and talk to you I also have a 1961 Beetle but my difficulty is finding several parts and I see that you bought a lot of rubber and details that it is impossible to buy in the chassis renovation I saw you bought the rubbers I want to know if it's possible to send parts here for me I'll make the payment thank you in advance and I'm waiting for an answer What country are you from God Bless
You stop when you see your edge feather and the panel starts to feel straight.
also, you will almost NEVER get your edges nice using 120 grit. once you get it close, to the point you started feathering the edge and you noticed you had a "high spot" and a "low spot" you should of stopped there, prepped the low spot. and added another skim coat of filler.
ram up to 220 and 320 grit to REALLY feather it out.
your technique got better towards the end, at the beginning i dunno what you were doing lol. and NEVER DA YOUR BODY FILLER.
it takes the material down way too fast and it doesnt ever sand flat. you will almost ALWAYS have high and low spots. period.
again, once you notice the low spots like that, stop and skim coat it again. you wanna take it all down evenly.
if you dont do it this way your bodywork will have "wavy lines" once you lay paint down. also when "feeling" your work. close your eyes.
"SEE" the panel with your hands not your eyes.
Thanks Danny! Lots of good info here.
Too much hardener. Probably twice what you need, and it’s what’s making it set so fast. Get it mixed ASAP. No time to admire the color, streaks are gone get it on the metal and don’t go back over what you’ve done and try and tweak it, that’s what the grater is for. Looking good!
You should prime it with 2K epoxy primer before applying filler. Filler isn't waterproof as epoxy primer is and it will suck water which results in rust.
Can you use filler over epoxy primer?
@@cyprianskiba8768 yes
What ever happened to the Swamp Dragon?
Just get some light on paper so I can flatten it out and give it undercut see the lumps special hour I’ll see you up if you got a high spot
A la hora de aplicar la masilla y lijarla.... todavía te falta práctica....pero,poco a poco....porque nadie nació sabiendo todo.
Stop using the small block. Use the large block and make sue the ends are supported on flat metal. you stop sanding when you can spray guide coat on and their are no low spots left when going over it.