Big thank for posting all the dual videos. I restored my 1225 to perfect working condition. It would not have been possible without your indepth knowledge and genuine desire to teach us how to repair and tune our turntables. Thank you
This whole video is incredibly helpful and super informative, but I honestly got my mind blown by the strobe disc pitch control, which I never knew was a thing until just now. Thank you so much for showing how to disassemble and clean one of these!
Just got myself one of these babies today, and it's running perfectly But this video is awesome for when sometime in the future it needs a little loving. Thanks a lot for uploading this truly great and helpful video. Best wishes. Soundrookie.
Excellent info, thanks for showing us. Gave me the nerve to dive in and now from a non spinning groaning arm return mess I have a smoothly operating Dual 1218 with all functions working well with no groans, no speed reduction during arm return, and quick shut off. Lithium grease and 3 in 1 oil are to a turntable as new caps and tubes are to an amp.
Love the old Dual turntables! Even the entry level turntables are very well made. I recently rescued my father's 1214 from being thrown away. I cleaned it and lubricated everything and it's back in business and sounds amazing compared to the crap (mostly) you get today.
Tnx m8! I had some weird noise from idler wheel so I did the disassembly, lubricated it with my gun lubrication fluid (it's a temporrary option) and it runs smooth again.
My parents had two Dual turntables. A Clairtone Viking console with a 1009 and a 1228 we got from Heathkit. Both durable and flawless during my childhood anyway, Oh and child proof too.
Thank you! I've got a DUAL 1234, which is pretty much the same inside and the auto-functions were all out of whack and the motor made an awful buzzing sound and this helped me immensely - managed to fix both issues!
Hm, it worked great for a couple of days but now it started doing something weird - when I auto-start, the needle moves over the record and as soon as it drops, it lifts up again and returns to the initial position and turns off. I can see that the issue is that the big yellow cog keeps spinning for another turn, so the little starting lever that's over the gap in the teeth probably isn't being moved back properly but I can't for the life of me figure out why. What's even more baffling is that in like 1 of 10 tries, it works normally and, in like 1 out of 20 cases, it does this on switch-off as well - it moves fine back to the initial position after playing the record, but then it lifts and drops several times before finally turning off.
Your on the right track. the starting lever that kicks the cam gear isn't being reset. It is operated by both the manual reject lever, as well as a lever that is activated when the tone arm reaches the end groove on the record. The problem is going to be some dry lubricant, or dirt causing one of these parts to stick, which kicks the mechanism again as soon as it finishes a cycle.
Thank you!!! I'll have to give it a closer look. The problem with this part is access - it's on the top side of the yellow gear, so it can't be accessed from the bottom and from the top, it can only be accessed through a couple of small openings in the chassis.
Thanks! Years back I owned this very model. Worked great for years, then finally it got ruined by someone getting drunk and setting on it. Lost the turntable and a friend that didn't know his limit.
Ha! I was expecting belt drive. I was thinking if the belt was bad,, you could still hear the motor running. But, maybe not. On many rim drives, the motor shaft has multiple diameters to change the speed ratios. Some have a separate set of idler wheels at different diameters to do the same. And they used to make the operator cam out of metal. Some were on the other side of the motor board. Another edit: I am fascinated by how mechanisms work. Miss the old jukeboxes that played 45's. And pinball machines. I love this video! Oh, the tricky part. Putting back the rotor in the motor, and tightening the nuts. If not done right, motor will bind. I learned from experience.
This is great. It's sometimes hard to see the finer details of what you are doing e.g. when you're undoing the idler level assembly, hands might be in the way of camera etc. Otherwise, this is an extremely useful video which has really motivated me to work on my own unit here in Sydney, Australia. Finding experienced technicians here is quite a challenge so thank you.
Ahh, Rubber Renue. Instant headache as soon as you open the bottle. Works great, though. I like to clean the contacts on the cartridge headshell connector as well. They get awfully dirty and then you get hum, dropping channels, etc.
Thanks for the video. I just bought a non working 1225 and pulled it apart lubed it as you did and now have it up and running. I have to get a pre amp for my receiver. I have one question? I found two little pieces at the bottom of the case and clueless as to what they are?
Thanks for the video. Just a couple of questions: did you remove the tonearm before handling the wheel cam ? Shouldn't the tonearm be free to move when rotating the wheel cam ?
Great video. I have a Dual 1009, with what looks like a very similar drive mechanism. The arm drops, goes back at stop, and the table spins. Problem is, the drive disengages as soon as it spins up and the needle drops, leaving the table to slowly spin down to a stop. Any idea what part might need adjusting to solve this?
You are seriously awesome 12V... you really described those "problem points" well. All the oil-joints, and the motor exam, are serious needs requirements. Plus the balance on the arm was not overlooked. I would never have guessed 2 grams is the correct weight, for the tone arm. I missed that on the other video you did. It's been awhile since turntables have become somewhat dinosaur-ish, locally. Or just collectors' type stuff. It's interesting you know how to repair stuff like this. Are repair shops dying? lol.
Just a little tip for these dual turntables, if you want to calibrate the correct speed to be dead center on the dial, there is a small hole next to the pitch control with an adjustment screw inside, you center the dial and adjust the screw until the speed is correct. Dual turn tables are built like tanks, the main issues with these units are lubrication and the so called steuerpimpel which is a rubbery "pimple" that makes the tonearm go back and forth, sometimes the tonearm won't move or doesn't do the total path because of this. I once fixed a 1226 for a friend that has a totally seized cam gear, I fell in love with these dual turntables I bought myself a 1214, not the top of the range of the era but a very nice unit nonetheless it's a 3 speed unit, and 3 selectable record sizes. Too bad it has a 2 pole motor though, I put in a magnetic cartridge and it picks up a slight hum from the motor.
That adjustment hole has a cover on it on this one. The "steuerpimple" on this one is wearing, which is causing sluggish arm movement. It works, but hesitates slightly when moving. (this the reason I didn't demonstrate is in this video)
i bought a 1226 love the little tank. it is amazing. cleaned off the old grease and reoiled. even the record dropper works. came with cover, strobe disc, and original 45 adapter. $10 dollars at estate sale.
I have the Dual 1209 which is a cheaper version of the one you have here. The 1237 (belt drive) is also a good one to restore because of nice durable parts and easy to work on design. BTW the 1225 is the Dual model that is seen in several photos of Elvis in his home that I have seen on album covers and in magazines.
Thank you very much for your video, it helped a great deal. A friend gave me a 1225 and I was just about to throw it away because it would refuse to spin the platter. I followed your procedure and now its working! I could not work out how to get the platter off and did not realize that the player could be started by moving the tone arm into position manually. I have no ground wire and I'm wondering where to connect one. Does it go to the box where the audio wires connect? My player became very corroded after I left a record with drying PVA sitting on it (a weird and wonderful record cleaning technique that works like a face lift). Even the motor had green corrosion in it. The cartridge is so green all over that it hardly works, one channel has stopped working. So viewers, if your going to use the glue technique on your records do not leave them near your TT!
Thanks for the video. Like you did. .I used the 3 in one oil I applied to gear and pivot points and used the rubber Renue on the wheel..I just ordered some phonolube lubricant but I did not try yet...I got start and stop to work.rhe to warm falls short to the resting arm and .but am having a problem with the tonearm during play stylus it seems to pull away and skips and loops...how do Fix that?
I see you are using oil. I still have an old Sony PS-FL9. Every time when the arms moves over the rail I hear a 'boom'. I replaced the arm belt already. I think I need to clean the rail and put some fresh oil on it. What oil do you advice?
I got a couple of 1225s and fixed some pretty standard issues. In both ones the start/stop lever is very loose, the whole thing works, but this knob moves on it's shaft. Is this a standard behavior or should I try to fix it?
Hi,12Volts Thanks for the video is very helpful. I have 1226 and with your instructions, I was able to make it work, however, I have an issue with the start/stop mechanism: There's a repeat cycle when the record ends or when I select the stop options. I did a full cleanup, disassemble the main gear, clean up everything and I am not sure what else I can try. A special behavior I noticed is when you adjust the screw that is next to the anti-skate. Sometimes the stop mechanism works however suddenly the full thing is stuck. I broke the main black leaver and I just received the new part, however I hope that you have some ideas or tricks that you can share for this. I can send you some photos or videos in case you need them. Thanks in advance and I hope things are ok in BC. I am writing from Montreal. Cheers
Great and very helpful video 12V! I'm currently working on this turntable...but there's a very weird problem with the start switch. It runs completely free. It's like the plastic part has no grip what so ever on the shaft which turns inside the device to actuate the lever. Even more strange: on the inside you would assume that you could turn the shaft or remove it. But that's not possible and it doesn't move it all. Help would be highly appreciated 🤗
Yo, my Problem is that my tone Arm loops the Sound! how to fix that? I actually also had Problems with the automatic Tone arm but managed to Put it manually on the vinyl but it looped the Sound!
you can download an android app called strobily which can be configured to flash the phone´s led light at the required 60 or 50Hz. Works with most android phones. It produces a higher contrast than fluorescent lights.
Smashing job sir :-D, a good old deck back in service. It's similar to the bsr decks in two ways, the auto cog with the tracks to control the mechanism, and the rubber wheel drive :-). I like the under deck cog, its neater than the bsr overdeck type, and plastic should be quieter than the cast type of the bsr. The pitch control i had never seen before, i guessed the drive shaft had to have a taper, and the second you removed the platter i staired at the taper lol. The strobe disk wont show correct for the 33 1/3rd speed, only at 50hz you can have a strobe for that, at 45 rpm the 60hz is perfect. For the uk the 33 1/3rd calculates correct for 50hz only.
What are you talking about? The strobe disk has a set of rings for either 60Hz or 50Hz If the strobe disk is under a 60Hz light it will show fine, if you put it under a 50Hz light it will show fine as well, as long as you are looking at the right set of rings. These dual turntables work fine at either 120V 60Hz and 230V 50Hz, as long as you rewire the motor coils from parallel to series and you change the motor spindle accordingly..
The motor shaft is tapered slightly and the pitch control moves the drive tire up and down slightly. For a 50Hz version, the brass drive shaft would be slightly larger so as to compensate for the slower motor speed. I have seen turntables with a 50/60 hz adjustment. The drive shaft had 4 speeds, 2 for each 33 and 45 one being for 50hz and the other for 60, but most turntables with the 4 position drive were for 16,33,45, and 78 speeds.
Nope, the strobe disk I have is for 60Hz only. There may be ones for 50Hz, but this one is for 60 only. Those other strobe rings are for +2, +4 and -2, -4% for the speed. The motor rotates at the live frequency, and therefore at 50Hz will be running slow, so you need to change the drive spindle, which is what I said. As it sits, without changing parts it will run slow at 50Hz, and I am not even considering the voltage change, which is easy. As you said if it is a dual coil motor it would be rewired into series, but many turntables using a shaded pole motor only have a single coil, so on that type a step down transformer would be required.
The cheap bsr decks i remember in my youth didnt have any way to adjust the pitch, the motor spindle was two diameters only. Mind you, the records were pop so i suppose it didnt mattar ;-D
Great! My duel 1219 wasn’t returning, so I did the adjustment. Now the start stop won’t work. And still won’t return. It works manually but that’s it. Anybody help?
Love your videos! But please consider mounting the camera directly to the 12 o'clock (rear) side of the turntable. Most of the close-up work is completely hidden by your left hand due to the camera position. Overhead would be even better if possible.
Yes I have seen this happen. That cap is there just to debounce the swicth so that the spark created when the switch opens and closes doesn't pit the contacts in the switch, and cause an audible pop in the speaker as if the volume was cranked this could damage speakers. From time to time it shorts, and well you have a motor that just won't turn off. Might be an idea for a future video. Just have to find a shorted cap to put in or perhaps stick a pin in one to create a short and then change it out.
I have picked up Dual with DD quartz locked full auto at GW. the only problem is that the black cam doesn't grab the tone arm anymore during stat/stop cycle. It is like there is no friction left under that cam foot. Spent many hours trying to adjust the pressure on that cam but nothing has worked. So I have glued a piece of rubber under the foot but that only partially worked Can this be repaired or adjusted somehow?
Hello Thanks for the video. I have the same turntable which worked fine but now when i put on play the tonarm goes in the middle of the plate stays there for a while and goes back. I already have exchanged the Steuerpimpel do you now what might be the problem? @voltvids12
Linear Tracking turntables do all of this under computer control would I be right in thinking this?, I do seem to remember when I had the MARANTZ TT143 Linear Tracking turntable that there was nothing like this and anyway all the arm control hardware was built into the lid of the turntable which means that the lid has to be down or the record won't play, I would have thought that a drive wheel made from Synthetic Rubber would have been better, I would have thought if you where living in California, Arizona and Reno Nevada it is going to be hotter so you will want to keep your Record Storage and music system in the basement.
Most linear tracking turntables were really simple devices. Yes I know a few used lasers to track the shiny vinyl between the bands so they could position the needle automatically, but most were just a very simple setup.It consisted of a sled assy with a metal, or plastic gear. Some used a toothed bely and drive the tone arm block back and forth like a cheap printer.On the actual tone arm there was an optical sensor. As the record groove moved the stylus over about 1/8" the optical sensor would detect this, and turn on the rack motor that would move the arm rack over 1/8" until the optical sensor told it to stop. Then when the needle moved again, it would kick the block over again. There was a second motor that operated a little cam shaft to lift the arm up or drop it. Sony had a really cool one that you placed the record in vertically, and I always found that one cool to look at, but all linear tables were a pain in the ass to pick a specific song to listen to.
joe Christie You would need a step down transformer unless the motor was dual voltage and then it is just rewiring it. The bigger problem is frequency. If you have a 60hz motor and you run it at 50 it will be slow.
Just 3 in 1 electric motor oil. That is pure 20 wt oil with no additives. (Not engine oil in other words) you don't want detergents in there or anything that could attack the metal.
@@12voltvids do you know what the replacement is called for the object the plastic item the lifts the needle arm ? The lever itself is fine but the plastic item that controls it is broken..
Big thank for posting all the dual videos. I restored my 1225 to perfect working condition. It would not have been possible without your indepth knowledge and genuine desire to teach us how to repair and tune our turntables. Thank you
This whole video is incredibly helpful and super informative, but I honestly got my mind blown by the strobe disc pitch control, which I never knew was a thing until just now. Thank you so much for showing how to disassemble and clean one of these!
I'm up and running thanks to you. I have the same turn table. Thanks you so much for posting this information. Craig
Thanks so much for the very informative and helpful video! I will be applying these instructions to my recently acquired Dual 1214 Noresco.
Just got myself one of these babies today, and it's running perfectly But this video is awesome for when sometime in the future it needs a little loving. Thanks a lot for uploading this truly great and helpful video.
Best wishes.
Soundrookie.
Thanks for another informative video. Much appreciate your time & effort!
good job..you daily give us detail and info about how repair befor and after ..that why we are enjoy with your video repair
Excellent info, thanks for showing us.
Gave me the nerve to dive in and now from a non spinning groaning arm return mess I have a smoothly operating Dual 1218 with all functions working well with no groans, no speed reduction during arm return, and quick shut off.
Lithium grease and 3 in 1 oil are to a turntable as new caps and tubes are to an amp.
This is the best Dual 12xx overhaul video I've seen yet. Thank you. The only thing I wish was for more description on the lubes you used.
You are so much better at fixing thisDual 1225 than a one on CZcams
Love the old Dual turntables! Even the entry level turntables are very well made. I recently rescued my father's 1214 from being thrown away. I cleaned it and lubricated everything and it's back in business and sounds amazing compared to the crap (mostly) you get today.
I have a Dual 1210 need to clean it and make a cabinet to fit it in.
Tnx m8!
I had some weird noise from idler wheel so I did the disassembly, lubricated it with my gun lubrication fluid (it's a temporrary option) and it runs smooth again.
My parents had two Dual turntables. A Clairtone Viking console with a 1009 and a 1228 we got from Heathkit. Both durable and flawless during my childhood anyway, Oh and child proof too.
Thanks for posting this vid. Clear explanation. Very helpfull.
Thank you! I've got a DUAL 1234, which is pretty much the same inside and the auto-functions were all out of whack and the motor made an awful buzzing sound and this helped me immensely - managed to fix both issues!
Hm, it worked great for a couple of days but now it started doing something weird - when I auto-start, the needle moves over the record and as soon as it drops, it lifts up again and returns to the initial position and turns off.
I can see that the issue is that the big yellow cog keeps spinning for another turn, so the little starting lever that's over the gap in the teeth probably isn't being moved back properly but I can't for the life of me figure out why.
What's even more baffling is that in like 1 of 10 tries, it works normally and, in like 1 out of 20 cases, it does this on switch-off as well - it moves fine back to the initial position after playing the record, but then it lifts and drops several times before finally turning off.
Your on the right track. the starting lever that kicks the cam gear isn't being reset. It is operated by both the manual reject lever, as well as a lever that is activated when the tone arm reaches the end groove on the record. The problem is going to be some dry lubricant, or dirt causing one of these parts to stick, which kicks the mechanism again as soon as it finishes a cycle.
Thank you!!! I'll have to give it a closer look. The problem with this part is access - it's on the top side of the yellow gear, so it can't be accessed from the bottom and from the top, it can only be accessed through a couple of small openings in the chassis.
Thanks. Inspiring work.
Thanks! Years back I owned this very model. Worked great for years, then finally it got ruined by someone getting drunk and setting on it. Lost the turntable and a friend that didn't know his limit.
I think everyone can relate to some goof that doesn't know their limit until it is too late and something valuable gets smashed.
Ha! I was expecting belt drive. I was thinking if the belt was bad,, you could still hear the motor running. But, maybe not.
On many rim drives, the motor shaft has multiple diameters to change the speed ratios. Some have a separate set of idler wheels at different diameters to do the same. And they used to make the operator cam out of metal. Some were on the other side of the motor board.
Another edit: I am fascinated by how mechanisms work. Miss the old jukeboxes that played 45's. And pinball machines. I love this video!
Oh, the tricky part. Putting back the rotor in the motor, and tightening the nuts. If not done right, motor will bind. I learned from experience.
This is great. It's sometimes hard to see the finer details of what you are doing e.g. when you're undoing the idler level assembly, hands might be in the way of camera etc. Otherwise, this is an extremely useful video which has really motivated me to work on my own unit here in Sydney, Australia. Finding experienced technicians here is quite a challenge so thank you.
Ahh, Rubber Renue. Instant headache as soon as you open the bottle. Works great, though. I like to clean the contacts on the cartridge headshell connector as well. They get awfully dirty and then you get hum, dropping channels, etc.
Thanks for the video. I just bought a non working 1225 and pulled it apart lubed it as you did and now have it up and running. I have to get a pre amp for my receiver. I have one question? I found two little pieces at the bottom of the case and clueless as to what they are?
What a fine job
Thanks for the video. Just a couple of questions: did you remove the tonearm before handling the wheel cam ? Shouldn't the tonearm be free to move when rotating the wheel cam ?
Good stuff as always... thanks.
Great video. I have a Dual 1009, with what looks like a very similar drive mechanism. The arm drops, goes back at stop, and the table spins. Problem is, the drive disengages as soon as it spins up and the needle drops, leaving the table to slowly spin down to a stop. Any idea what part might need adjusting to solve this?
You are seriously awesome 12V... you really described those "problem points" well. All the oil-joints, and the motor exam, are serious needs requirements. Plus the balance on the arm was not overlooked. I would never have guessed 2 grams is the correct weight, for the tone arm. I missed that on the other video you did. It's been awhile since turntables have become somewhat dinosaur-ish, locally. Or just collectors' type stuff. It's interesting you know how to repair stuff like this. Are repair shops dying? lol.
Yes repair shops are dying. Most are long gone. Most that are still doing this work are doing so from home.
thank you so much! In my 1225 cam follower lever block the disk. Your vedeo help me to understand how that work!)
Just a little tip for these dual turntables, if you want to calibrate the correct speed to be dead center on the dial, there is a small hole next to the pitch control with an adjustment screw inside, you center the dial and adjust the screw until the speed is correct. Dual turn tables are built like tanks, the main issues with these units are lubrication and the so called steuerpimpel which is a rubbery "pimple" that makes the tonearm go back and forth, sometimes the tonearm won't move or doesn't do the total path because of this. I once fixed a 1226 for a friend that has a totally seized cam gear, I fell in love with these dual turntables I bought myself a 1214, not the top of the range of the era but a very nice unit nonetheless it's a 3 speed unit, and 3 selectable record sizes. Too bad it has a 2 pole motor though, I put in a magnetic cartridge and it picks up a slight hum from the motor.
That adjustment hole has a cover on it on this one. The "steuerpimple" on this one is wearing, which is causing sluggish arm movement. It works, but hesitates slightly when moving. (this the reason I didn't demonstrate is in this video)
i bought a 1226 love the little tank. it is amazing. cleaned off the old grease and reoiled. even the record dropper works. came with cover, strobe disc, and original 45 adapter. $10 dollars at estate sale.
I have the Dual 1209 which is a cheaper version of the one you have here. The 1237 (belt drive) is also a good one to restore because of nice durable parts and easy to work on design. BTW the 1225 is the Dual model that is seen in several photos of Elvis in his home that I have seen on album covers and in magazines.
Thanks a lot for this information!
Would be cool if you upload a video how to refill the tonearm queue damping oil. Must I remove the whole tonearm?
Thank you very much for your video, it helped a great deal. A friend gave me a 1225 and I was just about to throw it away because it would refuse to spin the platter. I followed your procedure and now its working! I could not work out how to get the platter off and did not realize that the player could be started by moving the tone arm into position manually. I have no ground wire and I'm wondering where to connect one. Does it go to the box where the audio wires connect? My player became very corroded after I left a record with drying PVA sitting on it (a weird and wonderful record cleaning technique that works like a face lift). Even the motor had green corrosion in it. The cartridge is so green all over that it hardly works, one channel has stopped working. So viewers, if your going to use the glue technique on your records do not leave them near your TT!
Thanks for the video. Like you did. .I used the 3 in one oil I applied to gear and pivot points and used the rubber Renue on the wheel..I just ordered some phonolube lubricant but I did not try yet...I got start and stop to work.rhe to warm falls short to the resting arm and .but am having a problem with the tonearm during play stylus it seems to pull away and skips and loops...how do Fix that?
Refat Rabadi same Problem here, the tone arm just stays and loops the Sound all the time
That's Elvis Presley's player he heard his last Gospel record the day when he died.
Good job
I'd love to see a video on how the grounding works. My 1226 doesn't have a ground wire and static is a problem for me.
I would also like to know the answer.....can anyone come in on this?
I see you are using oil. I still have an old Sony PS-FL9. Every time when the arms moves over the rail I hear a 'boom'. I replaced the arm belt already. I think I need to clean the rail and put some fresh oil on it. What oil do you advice?
I got a couple of 1225s and fixed some pretty standard issues. In both ones the start/stop lever is very loose, the whole thing works, but this knob moves on it's shaft. Is this a standard behavior or should I try to fix it?
If you were in my area my 4 Dual turntables would be in your shop for this Canadian
Hi,12Volts Thanks for the video is very helpful. I have 1226 and with your instructions, I was able to make it work, however, I have an issue with the start/stop mechanism: There's a repeat cycle when the record ends or when I select the stop options. I did a full cleanup, disassemble the main gear, clean up everything and I am not sure what else I can try.
A special behavior I noticed is when you adjust the screw that is next to the anti-skate. Sometimes the stop mechanism works however suddenly the full thing is stuck. I broke the main black leaver and I just received the new part, however I hope that you have some ideas or tricks that you can share for this. I can send you some photos or videos in case you need them. Thanks in advance and I hope things are ok in BC. I am writing from Montreal.
Cheers
thanks for posting the same almost the sa me turntable that i have. Any idea on how to remove the shafting of the gear? Mine got stucked.
I have already problems opening up that Tiny ring at 3:00. .... how did you Do that so fast
I love my Dual 1229 with an Astatic MF- 300 cartridge
Great and very helpful video 12V!
I'm currently working on this turntable...but there's a very weird problem with the start switch. It runs completely free. It's like the plastic part has no grip what so ever on the shaft which turns inside the device to actuate the lever. Even more strange: on the inside you would assume that you could turn the shaft or remove it. But that's not possible and it doesn't move it all. Help would be highly appreciated 🤗
Yo, my Problem is that my tone Arm loops the Sound! how to fix that? I actually also had Problems with the automatic Tone arm but managed to Put it manually on the vinyl but it looped the Sound!
you can download an android app called strobily which can be configured to flash the phone´s led light at the required 60 or 50Hz. Works with most android phones. It produces a higher contrast than fluorescent lights.
Super
Smashing job sir :-D, a good old deck back in service.
It's similar to the bsr decks in two ways, the auto cog with the tracks to control the mechanism, and the rubber wheel drive :-).
I like the under deck cog, its neater than the bsr overdeck type, and plastic should be quieter than the cast type of the bsr.
The pitch control i had never seen before, i guessed the drive shaft had to have a taper, and the second you removed the platter i staired at the taper lol.
The strobe disk wont show correct for the 33 1/3rd speed, only at 50hz you can have a strobe for that, at 45 rpm the 60hz is perfect.
For the uk the 33 1/3rd calculates correct for 50hz only.
What are you talking about? The strobe disk has a set of rings for either 60Hz or 50Hz If the strobe disk is under a 60Hz light it will show fine, if you put it under a 50Hz light it will show fine as well, as long as you are looking at the right set of rings. These dual turntables work fine at either 120V 60Hz and 230V 50Hz, as long as you rewire the motor coils from parallel to series and you change the motor spindle accordingly..
Hmm, i was sure the strobe would not be whole values of black lines at 60 hz 33.33333rpm, i must be mad lol :-D
The motor shaft is tapered slightly and the pitch control moves the drive tire up and down slightly. For a 50Hz version, the brass drive shaft would be slightly larger so as to compensate for the slower motor speed. I have seen turntables with a 50/60 hz adjustment. The drive shaft had 4 speeds, 2 for each 33 and 45 one being for 50hz and the other for 60, but most turntables with the 4 position drive were for 16,33,45, and 78 speeds.
Nope, the strobe disk I have is for 60Hz only. There may be ones for 50Hz, but this one is for 60 only. Those other strobe rings are for +2, +4 and -2, -4% for the speed. The motor rotates at the live frequency, and therefore at 50Hz will be running slow, so you need to change the drive spindle, which is what I said. As it sits, without changing parts it will run slow at 50Hz, and I am not even considering the voltage change, which is easy. As you said if it is a dual coil motor it would be rewired into series, but many turntables using a shaded pole motor only have a single coil, so on that type a step down transformer would be required.
The cheap bsr decks i remember in my youth didnt have any way to adjust the pitch, the motor spindle was two diameters only.
Mind you, the records were pop so i suppose it didnt mattar ;-D
Great! My duel 1219 wasn’t returning, so I did the adjustment. Now the start stop won’t work. And still won’t return. It works manually but that’s it. Anybody help?
Love your videos! But please consider mounting the camera directly to the 12 o'clock (rear) side of the turntable. Most of the close-up work is completely hidden by your left hand due to the camera position. Overhead would be even better if possible.
Camera is mounted overhead. This is an old video.
There is a capasitor 0.01uF in the on off switch. I had to chance it because the motor didn't stop and was running for months
Yes I have seen this happen. That cap is there just to debounce the swicth so that the spark created when the switch opens and closes doesn't pit the contacts in the switch, and cause an audible pop in the speaker as if the volume was cranked this could damage speakers. From time to time it shorts, and well you have a motor that just won't turn off.
Might be an idea for a future video. Just have to find a shorted cap to put in or perhaps stick a pin in one to create a short and then change it out.
I have a dual 1209.... I want to lubricate and grease...what did you use to oil and grease recommend?
I used lithium grease for the cam gear, and just regular electric motor oil for the motor bearings, drive wheel and turntable bearing.
Thanks! I've got the platter moving again and can play manually but the auto return sand auto start are not working. What can i do to fix that?
Hope you fixed it. It would have been the Steuerpimpel. Either missing or damaged.
what grease do you use
I have picked up Dual with DD quartz locked full auto at GW. the only problem is that the black cam doesn't grab the tone arm anymore during stat/stop cycle. It is like there is no friction left under that cam foot. Spent many hours trying to adjust the pressure on that cam but nothing has worked. So I have glued a piece of rubber under the foot but that only partially worked Can this be repaired or adjusted somehow?
That is a common problem on these units. That black lever wears out. I am working on that right now on a Dual.
i wish they would have designed it better. let me know how you did it after you done thanks
How can people send equipment to you for repairs please.?
Hello Thanks for the video. I have the same turntable which worked fine but now when i put on play the tonarm goes in the middle of the plate stays there for a while and goes back. I already have exchanged the Steuerpimpel do you now what might be the problem? @voltvids12
Too much anti-skating force?
Technics all the way. Duals are a pain in the ass
Yeah just put your hand on the tricky spot:)
Linear Tracking turntables do all of this under computer control would I be right in thinking this?, I do seem to remember when I had the MARANTZ TT143 Linear Tracking turntable that there was nothing like this and anyway all the arm control hardware was built into the lid of the turntable which means that the lid has to be down or the record won't play, I would have thought that a drive wheel made from Synthetic Rubber would have been better, I would have thought if you where living in California, Arizona and Reno Nevada it is going to be hotter so you will want to keep your Record Storage and music system in the basement.
Most linear tracking turntables were really simple devices. Yes I know a few used lasers to track the shiny vinyl between the bands so they could position the needle automatically, but most were just a very simple setup.It consisted of a sled assy with a metal, or plastic gear. Some used a toothed bely and drive the tone arm block back and forth like a cheap printer.On the actual tone arm there was an optical sensor. As the record groove moved the stylus over about 1/8" the optical sensor would detect this, and turn on the rack motor that would move the arm rack over 1/8" until the optical sensor told it to stop. Then when the needle moved again, it would kick the block over again. There was a second motor that operated a little cam shaft to lift the arm up or drop it. Sony had a really cool one that you placed the record in vertically, and I always found that one cool to look at, but all linear tables were a pain in the ass to pick a specific song to listen to.
what model year is that
HELP. can anyone tell me would a 110v 1237 turntable move on 240v?
joe Christie
You would need a step down transformer unless the motor was dual voltage and then it is just rewiring it. The bigger problem is frequency. If you have a 60hz motor and you run it at 50 it will be slow.
What type of oil are you using? Anything special? I'd be concerned about the oil breaking down or attracting filth and gumming-up.
Just 3 in 1 electric motor oil. That is pure 20 wt oil with no additives. (Not engine oil in other words) you don't want detergents in there or anything that could attack the metal.
Don’t know if you still watch the comments here but is there a way to straighten out my slipmat I might have accidentally pulled it off..
Don't know
@@12voltvids do you know what the replacement is called for the object the plastic item the lifts the needle arm ? The lever itself is fine but the plastic item that controls it is broken..
@@streats1 stuerpimple
Where are you? Can I bring my Dual to you?
Im just outside of Vancouver BC
Dave, you getting that 99% alcohol at Shoppers? Do you have to ask for it?
I believe now you have to ask for it, but I have had this bottle for 20 years.