Dual 1225 Servicing
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- čas přidán 13. 03. 2018
- This video reviews many of the steps needed to service the Dual 1225 fully automatic turntable.
I previously serviced this turntable not long after I got it, which I discuss in the video, so this is not a complete tear-down and rebuild.
Hopefully this is still useful to someone.
Recorded on 03/02/2018. - Jak na to + styl
Brilliant video! I own a few turntables (Lenco L75, Technics 1210, Thorens TD150 Mk1...) but have been wanting a Dual for a while. 1229 and/or 701/721 on the top of my wish list, but found a cheap 1225 as a starter and was looking for a detailed video like this to get started on the servicing. This is really helpful, so thank you 🙂
Many many thanks for taking the time to make this video for us Dual Enthusiasts
Very good tutorial, you adressed all the problems of an old dual and the solutions. And I was glad to see that somone treats this wonderful machines really with respect. I myself own a few old duals myself, and I love especially the idler driven ones like the 1208 and 1209.
I have a 1218 that I am about to clean and have found this presentation very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for this, it's exactly what I was looking for. I found a 1226 set aside at garbage dump, couldn't believe sone one just threw it away. I took it home and used an old record to play it and it worked, just needs some thorough cleaning and lubrication and a new cartridge can't hurt.
this is a very good overview. the main bearing service makes a huge difference. 1225 is a great little player.
Really well done video, one of the better ones out there for sure. I learned a lot about how those models work, thanks! I just got my first Dual a week ago, a 502. Really had fun bringing it back to life, but luckily no major problems. I may be hooked on them now
Glad it was helpful!
Best explanation of mechanics of the dozens of videos I’ve watched. I have two PE tables and this helps a lot. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Learned a lot about the Dual 1225. Helped me fix it to normal operation. Excellent job explaining.
Glad you got it fixed!
Nice to see this procedure. I own many Dual tables including the 1225 and 1226, both like each other. I actually just sent the unit to someone that specializes on Dual. He never fixes one thing, he goes all the way through. One table was all kinds of trouble, the 1226. Now the 1226 and 1225 work like new. Love the Duals.
Glad you got them working!
I moved my Dual 1219 out to my shop months ago and installed my backup TT since the Dual had stopped spinning the platter. Today I took off the platter to look, saw that the idler wheel was not contacting the spindle turned by the drive. I was thrilled the drive was still working, began researching what to do about a rubber idler wheel with over 50 years of use. Saw that ebay had new/used ones and that there were companies to refurbish your idler wheel for about $50. I had watched one video about Dual repair with a guy fixing another problem with a piece of tubing. Oh, he was preaching to the choir! So I cut off 1/4 inch of fuel line in my mower repair stuff and slipped it tightly over the spindle that the idler wheel was not reaching. BOOM! Now it reaches and turns the ideler wheel and the platter at the appropriate speed. Mighty cheap fix, bet it will last.....if I ever have the need to reinstall this TT and pull the other one out, that is.
excellent .... could have used this info in 1973 when i first bought my 1219, then all this was a mystery. i have 4 of these now and all work pretty good........thank you for your info also a great presentation!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the good and helpful tutorial. Now I can start works on my 1225.
A very good explanation of this turntable. It is working perfect now! Thanks a lot!
Great to hear!
Incredibly helpful! Thank you!
It's funny, many people tell you to not service these yourself like it's rocket science, but compared to modern turntables these are a breeze to service. Never owned a turntable before and a seized up Dual 1215 was my first. After a day of just prodding and poking, turning the cog and watching the thing as well as your video, I figured out how it all worked and how to fix my issues. I love how ingenious the speed adjustment is (different diameter on the motor spindle) and how the fine tuning of the speed is literally moving the idler arm up or down the conical spindle. It's so simple yet so smart! I wish more stuff was made like this these days. 50 Years later and they still work with minor servicing. No planned obsolescence back then!
No, they were actual machines that were built to last. When complicated electronics were too expensive for consumer devices, mechanical solutions were used. Even stuff built in the 80s and 90s is better than a lot of what is made today.
Thanks for the video! The problem on my 1225: towards the end of the record the pitch starts dropping more and more. I did not see it covered in the video, although I suspect it's related to the Idler Wheel mechanism slipping or not making proper contact. It worked fine when I bought it by the way.
I finally got it fixed. That sliding piece that has a little tab that indexes into the slot on the start and stop lever linkage to hold it engaged was sticking, due to old grease. even with the spring tension it wouldn't pull into the slot, thus not starting or stopping. Works like new again.
I'm glad you figured it out! Yeah, that grease really did my 1225 in as well. The entire thing was frozen solid. It was a fun project to take it apart and figure out how it all worked. It's quite a contraption.
VERY good explanation of how this functions. I have a Dual 1218 that will not shut off/stop spinning! I was hoping you might cover this problem.
If the deck automatically restarts after the cycle, then it's because the cam is not following the correct path through the cam wheel as mentioned in the video. If the cycle ends (with the tonearm on its rest) but the platter just keeps spinning, that may be an issue with the switch.
Just serviced a 1226. White lithium grease is a big no-no on the cam wheel. It actually creates more friction between the main arm and cam and creates a horrible squealing sound. Removed it, applied some synthetic grease - noise gone.
Glad you got it fixed!
Excellent. Thank you
I have the exact same problem you mention at 8:14. As the TT went into stop mode, the cam didn’t completely go to the inside and jammed the TT, almost breaking that black lever that lifts the tonearm. I will definitely try the heat shrink method. However, my problem is that when the cam wheel turns in stop mode, the metal cam just barely touches the part that is connected to the start/stop switch, therefore pushing the cam just slightly to the outside of its track and blocking the whole thing.
Perhaps the tab on the cam is bent down slightly?
How do you restore damping for the cueing my 1225 I restored this is the only thing I need to fix
So I have a 1224 and the start/stop lever is really hard and doesn't work at all, I have to let it in the middle position and put the tonearm manually, I've tried to disassemble it but I just managed to break the plastic lever and I have no idea how to get out the shaft
I have a Dual 522 automatic belt drive. I have a problem when I move the stop lever the arm lifts up but doesn't want to move to its off position. Then the arm just goes down and loops.
Good work
Thanks!
Very clear, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great insight to this solid classic turntable. Mine works fine, but the tonearm drops really quick, so I always use the lift to drop it nice and slow. Heard there's a liquid to dampen the dropping speed. Is it complicated to refill or change it?
I think it is the same as any other dampener, though I have not had to take mine apart. See my SL-1600 video for how that is done with that turn table. It would be the same type of fluid.
Hello there been watching this video which was helpful ,I ended up getting a Dual 1209 TT IT was seized but by watching your video I got it to work the only thing I believe it is missing a that I believe goes attached to the start linkage there is a spot on the that looks like it needs a spring the start switch seems loosely goosey would you know or if where I can find a diagram. to see if a spring is missing I know the electric plastic cover was smashed when I got it and at the end of where the linkage goes through in plastic cover st end there is a small spring just dangling at end and I do not know where it hooks up to if you have any ideas I sure could use some if possible , the TT works fine but I know there is something missing by the start switch thank you JRo
How do you lubricate the motor bearings? I have a Dual 1010 with a two pole motor. Obviously WD40 would be a bad idea for motor bearings, but what about light machine oil (like for sewing machines)?
Do know how to service the tonearm if the manual lift switch isn't engaging? I have a 1246 but the tonearm looks basically underneath. The tonearm lifts fine with auto start but the manual does not. Thank you so much for your time.
The manual lift is a simple lever that pushes against the same mechanism as the auto lift. Maybe the little plastic cam at the base of the lever is broken?
When I turn on the lever, the start of the tonearm does not reach the beginning of the plate. Also, when the stop lever is turned on, the tonearm does not fully return. Today I disassembled, lubricated, apparently violated the adjustments. Can you help? I can record a video of my breakdown and send it to you, thanks, respects Valery.
Hello I have bought this turntable but it miss the spindle , do you know if I can buy it online ?
This is a great video for servicing a Dual turntable in general, very detailed n informative, thx! Is it possible u can explain what u did to avoid loud pops in the beginning n end of the record, I think u mentioned u placed a plastic in between? If ur kind enough to reply to this n explain or create a video on how to do it, it’ll be greatly appreciated! Thank u so much!
Yes. The loud pops are either due to the muting contacts making you phono preamp angry. Some preamps have a DC bias offset that cause trouble on turntables that mute the audio by shorting the pickup wiring. The Schitt preamp in particular really doesn't work well. I "fixed" it by adhering a small piece of paper between the contacts to keep them from closing. The other source of a pop would be from the motor power switch pushing back-EMI into the power source when it opens and closes. You can try a surge suppressor or electrical isolator to control it.
What cartridge do you use for your turntable? I have an Empire cartridge on my Dual turntable. I wonder if I can get a new stylus for it?
You should be able to get a replacement stylus for it. I've found that the light tonearm on these likes a stylus with higher compliance. The Shure M97 comes to mind.
Question : On a Dual 1237 model similar to yours : how to cancel pops during start and stop of the turn table .
Do I have to change the capacitor which is mounted parallel to the main power switch ( black plastic covered) ?
If yes : where to find the equivalent one ? Thanks for help.
Thierry
If the pops happen when powering it up and down (like when you move the tonearm off of the rest), then it is probably the power switch. Changing the cap my help. If the popping happens during the automatic return of the arm (while the motor is still running), it may be the muting contacts not playing nicely with your preamp.
Great video, I bought mine with the new basic AT cartridge and all features were working perfectly. Then I just swapped out the TK 14 headshell with another one that had a Pickering cartridge in it, balanced everything and it works just fine with 33's(sounds awesome) but as soon as i put a 45 single on, the needle doesnt touch the record at all! This happens in auto and manual, any thoughts? Greatly appreciated, cheers!
There is a height adjustment for the tonearm lift. It's possible that the new cart requires less lift.
very helpful video!
now i have an other Problem, i repleaced the "Steuerpimpel", on my 1249 and now my Tonarm is moving to far and starts in the middle of the second song. At the end of the Record the automatic does not pick up the arm. The second Problem is that its starts jumping on all Records at the same place is it the wrong antiscating ?
thanks in advance
There is a small cap over the adjustment screw in the top that controls the point where the needle is dropped at the start of the record. The jumping issue sounds more like something binding the tonearm. There are a number of levers and sliders that can sometime create resistance in the tonearm's travel when the lubrication has dried up.
WHAT WILL BE VALUE?
Would be nice if you do a video about refill the damping oil in the queing mechanism. :)
Yeah, that was one thing it actually didn't need....oddly enough. :)
Nice !
great video. Quick question, I have a 504 but the stop mechanism is not working. Would you be able to share some tips on how to adjust it? Thanks in advance and cheers from Canada
I'm afraid that I'm not familiar with that model.
after some observation I have noticed the mechanism was not aligned, so I did some adjustments and did work
Thank you so much for this video! I was wondering if you could elaborate on your deactivateing of the muting switch. I think I'm having the same problem that you described in this video. With my phono preamp I'm getting pops. How did you go about placing plastic between the contacts? Thanks in advance!!
Well, the contacts are exposed. You can see how the mechanism closes them when transitioning the tonearm. Just slip a some sort of insulator in there and tape it in place.
@@AmorphousAudio thanks! I'll try that
@@AmorphousAudio Hey bro, do you know where the capacitor actually is? It is a simple task to replace in and restore the functionality.
Muting switch on dual idlers actually is not a switch. It shortens both channels on ground during a cam wheel circle. There is not a real loss in continuity. The usual suspect if you experience "pops" is the capacitor. Remember, this is not a simple cap it is a resistor - capacitor combo
In my case, the issue was the DC offset voltage that my preamp applies to the cartridge. When the cartridge is shorted, it puts the preamp into a protection mode. It take 10-30 seconds for the preamp to reset.
so mine spins a little too slow, even with the pitch control on max. What could the problem be? the idling wheel is still good
What is the frequency of your mains power? If you live in a 50Hz region, perhaps yours is intended for a 60Hz market? The motors on these are synchronous AC motors. Their speed is determined entirely by the line frequency.
do you connect this turntable to an external amplifier or directly to a speaker?, my dual 1225 is super quiet when I try to use it and I don't know how to fix it. any help would be much appreciated
Yes, you'll need a phono preamp for the majority of vintage turntables. Despite the fact that they use the same RCA connectors as line level inputs, the signal from the cartridge is very small and needs equalization as well.
If anyone have problems with the auto start or return , this is probably due to the condition of the main lever ( 10.min 28s) which is too slippery . Solution : remove this lever and put a layer of Tessa isolation tape -not the plastic one but the tissue one on the edge part of the back of this lever , it will give some new grip and the small pin which activate all lateral movements of the arm will do its job properly again . Anyway , thanks for the useful video.
There is supposed to be a small rubber nub that provides that friction. Replacements are available, but the friction tape method also works.
I have a 1225 that won't auto start or auto return. The manual lift/lower lever works and the table works fine as a manual table. I replaced the steuerpimple rubber nub and it appears that the black seesaw is connecting with it, but it's just not moving the arm. it's like there's something impeding the movement of the arm in auto-mode. And i've tried lubricating the gold metal piece that the bottom of the tonearm "clicks" into, but still no success. Anyone have any ideas on what all to troubleshoot to ensure fluid movement of the arm in auto mode to enable the rubber nub to do it's job effectively?
With the tonearm balanced such that the cartridge is floating in the air and the anti skate turned all the way down, does the arm move freely? It should float effortlessly.
Nagaoka MP110? How does it sound on this turntable? That's the one I plan on putting in 😉
It sounds pretty good and looks great on it. I do have a bit of IGD with it though...something with the light tonearm I think.
Mine doesn't start immediately when I push the lever. For some reason it won"t lock into the start position. I have lubricated and cleaned everything. If I toggle it back and forth many times it finally holds and starts. With the multiple record spindle in place, I have to keep jiggling the switch back and forth and then it finally starts the cycle and then continues to play through multiple records with no problems. Do you know if that switch relay is supposed to hold the contacts together when you let go of the lever. I am suspecting that little capacitor in there is not working properly. What do you think?
Hi john. It's been a while since I was into this thing, but the start lever should latch while the automation is in motion. IIRC, that latching action is accomplished by the mechanism behind the cam wheel. There is a little lever on the wheel that has a "tooth" in the spot on the wheel where the teeth that engage the platter are missing. When that lever is kicked over by the start or stop function, there is a slider that is supposed to latch. It's hidden under the cam wheel, so perhaps you weren't able to lube it or perhaps something is bent.
That long silver lever that goes under the motor is what pushes the switch contacts and starts the motor. It presses the switch so long as the tone arm is not parked. There isn't any relay on this model that I am aware of. What kicks the motor on when you use the start/stop lever while the tonearm is parked is same mechanism I mentioned above that also latches the control.
Okay thanks. The funny thing is that once it starts I can't push the lever to the stop position. I'll have to take it apart again I guess and go through it more thoroughly. I've had it since new from the early 70's. It was never abused, so I can't figure how anything could be bent.
No auto start or return: part missing? I added a spring and stopper from back of a pen to the pin that is supposed to get dragged during load and return operations.
A couple of people have mentioned that mine might be missing a spring. I don't see it in the exploded view diagrams, but the image I have is pretty terrible.
Looking for my pic.
COMPANY NAME?
Anybody know how to remove Dual 1209 platter? It does not have the usual C clip or any other visible retaining device..??
there are holes on the platter : just turn the platter in order to see a small metallic lever accessible , pull this lever and it will go .
@@thierrydemontblanc1619 Great..thanks a ton for that info..it's midnight here right now will try that first thing tomorrow..
i have a dual 1228 turntable.it only has a ground wire and a power cord.how do i hook it up to speakers/amp?
Take a closer look underneath it. You should find a pair of phono jacks under there facing downward.
@@AmorphousAudio nope nothing
@@AmorphousAudio hi sorry to bother you.but do you have any idea where i can find a replacement needle for this turntable.
Back in the olden days, I owned a 1225. I bought it new. It worked well and I liked it a lot. I remember buying a Empire cartridge for it. Eventually, around 1984, the controls were sticking and the turntable stopped working. Back then I didn’t know what to do so I threw it away when I moved. Sigh… The good news is that I saved all the little things I could take off my 1225 before tossing it. I also saved the dust cover and hinges. I still have these items to this day. Just need to find a 1225 that needs servicing and I’m good to go.
If you're hungry, Super Lube is kosher certified. I'm not even kidding 😮
Might taste better than vegemite... ;)
Why is EVERYONE calling the base a "plinth?" We never called it that in the 70's. It was a BASE. A plinth is when the "deck" and the base are one in the same. If the wooden part is a plinth, then what are you calling the "deck" of the table? That's closer to be being a plinth. Sorry, but this is my pet peeve.
Yeah, I see your point. Depends on how you look at it. We didn't call them "vinyls" either, but everyone gets the gist of it.
Thank you for this video as I have seen one of these for sale and I needed to know quite a few things you mentioned here