SURGE PROTECTORS (SPDs) - What They Are, How They Work, What You Need To Know
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- In today's video we dive deep into transient over-voltages (surges), Surge Protection Devices, and the new NEC codes that bring major changes to our residential field.
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Surge Protection. Why, where, and wut?
NEC 2020 code requirement changes
The National Electric Code (NEC) sets the standard for electricians and electrical work across the US, with the arrival of it’s 2020 edition adding some substantial changes to the codes on surge protection. The most notable of these changes can be found in “Services” article 230.67, which states that any new or replaced service supplying a dwelling unit must be provided with a Type 1 or Type 2 Surge Protection Device. Residential Services will no longer pass inspection in most jurisdictions without a surge protection device either inside the service panel or immediately adjacent to... Which is kind of a big deal. In addition, NEC has moved the entire article of Surge Protection Devices from 285 in the 2017 edition over to 242, renaming the article Overvoltage Protection in order to incorporate surge arrestors over 1000 volts. Lastly adding a helpful table (Table 242.3) listing other sections of the NEC that mention surge protections for specific uses, such as fire pumps and data centers.
What is a surge?
A power surge or “transient over-voltage" is a spike in voltage to an electrical system that can reach thousands of volts so instantaneously that it has to be measured in fractions of a second. There are multiple types of surges, the most common is caused by large loads with-in the electrical system (e.g., Air Conditioning units, elevators and motors). These surges created by appliances and motor loads are typically oscillatory, or one event that remains just long enough to cause a “rippling effect” in the system and will shorten the life of sensitive electronics. The larger less frequent surges are caused by changes to the grid by the power company and lightning strikes to the grid itself. These surges are typically much larger impulse transients, meaning one spike that dissipates immediately, and can be detrimental to a building's electrical system...
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Honestly, I recommend you to my apprentices. You have great information that cannot always be conveyed on the job, where time constraints exist. The best ones always listen and want to learn and the worst... Well, you know... Will never read this comment.
) I’m gcg, thanks here going home high C gcgcc
The worst are usually the ones that claim they already know.
@@wildbill23c When they show up their first day with all brand new tools, somethings up
I've seen a lot from Dustin, and its great, but i mainly do industrial and right now our main job is for Formet/Magna automation sector and its mostly installing cable tray, mounting panels and doing cable aesthetics. I've been on the same site about a year and a half and didn't learn all that much. Should I move on?
Hmm, I wonder if Dustin could explain this if we tied his hands down 😂🤣
Restless arm syndrome!
😁
You just reminded me of Scott Gilmer the car review guy 😅
No
He's just making imaginary pizza dough. That's all
In 2018 We had lightning strike a tree in our backyard about 25’ from the house. It traveled across the ground, blew a small trench in the dirt across the yard, arced on the metal astragal on the French door in our basement that I was standing 5’ away from, blew the ramset nails off the wood piece under the door threshold. We had WHSP on both panels. We lost all the TV’s, AV equipment, garage door openers upstairs on both garages, a fridge in the garage, a ceiling fan on the opposite side of the house on the 2nd story furthest away from the strike, the LED string lights on the back deck, a remote control switch for my dust collection in my workshop, an HDMI cable (had to cut open the ceiling and re-fish a new one because the old one got stuck on something grrr), and the main control board on our Trane Heat Pump in the basement. It was totally random the things we lost and didn’t lose.
SPDs operate by passing CURRENT to (ground, neutral, common) which reduces the VOLTAGE due to the resistance of the source. The rating is how much current they can handle. The combination of voltage, current, and time is energy (joules). Again, the rating is how much energy they can bypass or absorb.
I wanted to say the same thing, but you beat me to it. The SPD works like a switch. When the voltage is normal, the switch is off and no current flows. When the voltage is too high, the switch closes to intentionally create a short-circuit between hot and neutral. This adsorbs the energy from the transient event, converting it into heat inside the SPD. Energy = voltage * current * time, so a higher the Joule rating means the SPD can short more current for a longer time. The voltage should stay constant if the SPD is doing its job.
Ive lost so many electronics and LED light bulbs from transients that im glad its finally a code.
Hey, just a homeowner here, not electrician, looking for some clarification. Dustin mentioned certain high drain loads like a central ac that strains the system could have an effect on other devices in the home over time. If I were to install surge protected breakers on the large appliances in place of regular breakers, would this protect the other devices and breakers in the home or does that only protect surges coming in from the service line to that particular breaker? Thanks in advance.
@@db0nn3r Putting an SPD at the panel should protect your property from all types of surges, including ones caused by your own appliances. It's like the overflow drain on a sink - once the water reaches a certain level, the sink will stop filling, no matter where the water comes from. An SPD is like an overflow drain for electrons - once the voltage reaches a certain level, the SPD will "drain" it down, no matter where the extra voltage comes from.
@@db0nn3r the AC is less likely a source as the electronics are high quality..you have capacitors helping start the motor and keep it running..the swamp cooler motor I had however, it may have caused my attic fire, but of course no one actually investigated. The power surge which was evidenced in a power strip surge protector, and a fried transformer and control board on the furnace, well, who can say, chicken and egg, did the surge cause the fire, 0r did the fire cause wires to melt which caused a surge in the other stuff??..
I hope to meet you one day man and shake your hand you were the one to get me into the trades and I have been busting my ass going to school and with the help of your videos got raises and more in depth knowledge there is so much a class can teach you
God bless you man 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You have one of the best explanations I've heard so far, an yet it's still as clear as Mud lol...
There are 3 types of non desirable voltage fluctuations as follows. To start with we normally get a 120 VAC (RMS) 60 Hz sine wave. A surge is when we have condition where the RMS voltage of the mains increase past the nominal 120V. An overvoltage surge typically lasts for several cycles or even minutes. The second type is spikes. These are short term (ms range) high voltage transients that are only present for small fraction of a cycle. The last type is EMI/RFI interference. These are typically low voltage high frequency waveforms that appear in addition to the 120 VAC waveform. These can extend right up into radio frequencies. All electronic devices should contain circuitry to filter EMI/RFI interference and it has very little impact on power equipment. The types of protection that are needed against Surges and Spikes are completely different. Obviously you cant have a piece of equipment that cuts power every time the waveform slightly rises otherwise stuff would continually be turned on and off. Instead surge protection will kick in after a few wave cycles. A spike by its definition is very short term. If one was hit by a very high spike say 10,000V the event will be over before a surge protector can act. Spikes must be acted on and very quickly (typically in mS or uS). Some electronic equipment contain basic spike protection. What they do is run the AC lines on the PCB near a ground line. When the voltage rises on the AC traces it will arc over to the ground line dissipating the energy. For those of you who think that power bars provide adequate spike protection think again as most are useless against a high voltage transient. ALso dont fall for snake oil salesmen trying to sell you power conditioning equipment for your home audio, a complete waste of money. Most spike protectors work by dissipating energy in a spike. This is why they are rated in Joules. I live in Canada and my experience is that power surges that damage equipment are pretty rare. The only one I can think of is when a utility installed the wrong transformer and people got a much higher voltage deliver to their homes. The utility paid damages in that case. Spike damage I have seen and usually it is because the dissipating/switching device has failed. EMI/RFI are annoying but not damaging.
exponent mantissa, you are absolutely 100% correct, unlike electrician U in this video. It is essentially important to know the DIFFERENCE between surges and spikes, as you have described above, as well as the Joule rating of the protective device, to get the protection you actually need for sensitive devices. If your device needs SPIKE protection there is no reason to purchase any but the (misnamed) "Surge Protector" with the HIGHEST Joule rating.
Another source of over-voltages, or surges, is an open neutral wire in a residential 120/240V system (common in the USA). The 240V remains the same but the two 120V "legs" fluctuate up and down as loads are turned on and off, often resulting in burned out equipment and house fires. Open neutrals do not threaten the building's wiring unless the building burns. The Utility is usually responsible for "open-neutral" damage and may try to duck that responsibility by claiming the neutral - ground connection was faulty or the devices were not "surge protected" which is actually "spike protected." Neither of these are actually relevant to the over and under voltage "surges" caused by open neutrals.
As an expert witness forensic engineer in many disputed cases, by understanding the difference between surges and spikes, I have caused the Utility company to pay for their open-neutral damages,
Thank you so much! You have taught me so much! I'm an apprentice, and a lot of times when I see something at work that I don't understand, I turn to you to teach me about it!
I've made service calls to residential customers. Many had no surge protection. One customer used surge protection with a cheap $5-10 protector. After a car crash sent a major spike down the line and into her house, her $10/15 k printer survived. Not the same could be said for her other electronic devices. Never thought a low joule rated surge protector would ever work that well. Now I recommend these for all your electronic devices.
Any brand recommendations?
I greatly enjoy learning from you Dustin. You have tapped into one of your gifts- teaching.
Perfect timing for this video!! Just finished installing my first panel with surge protection, my journeyman wants to test me on how the surge protection works tomorrow aha
I’m glad you said it’s confusing. I’ve fallen down so many rabbit holes trying to understand SPDs. Thank you for this explanation!
Man! That was an awesome explanation, nice way to convey in a few minutes a subject you obviously have devoted a lot of time to, I was planning to hit the suscribe button as soon as you mention the NEC update 👨🏫 Thank you!
This was a great video. I thought I have a good understanding but you're a Master for a reason!
Reevaluating my priorities and saving up for those practice exams
Thank you for using the terminologies correctly! I just found your channel and I’m into it, keep up the good work bro
Love your passion for the technical accuracy on the topic. Reminds me of using a capacitor to filter AC current.
An excellent overview of Type 1 to 4 and one of the better explanations of what an SPD can and can't with respect to spikes and lightning strikes.
Thank you! Your presentation is clear and concise.
Type 1 vs Type 2 is particularly relevant if you have an old panel without a main breaker. Our house has a split-bus panel, so we'd need to use a Type 1 device if we wanted to add surge protection to the top half of the panel.
Thank you for your valuable knowledge! And up to date too!
Great info, a lot to take in, but you did a great job explaining it. I understand what and how you describe the 4 different types. I also left understanding that you barely scratch the topic. Keep the content coming. Idk if I’m nerdy enough, but I do enjoy it!
The mention on monitoring made me check my UPS and it records why it went to battery and so far thankfully only a few flutters from storms but it does switch off grid for under and over voltage as well.
I greatly appreciate your videos. Really quite good . As you say it is a very complex subject and some percentage of what your are saying is going over my head, yet it still has a lot of value for me . I am 72 and still working part time as a handyman. In my career I have worked in the AirForce , residential homeowner properties and rental plus commercial restaurant and hotel chief of maintenance and high rise certified safety. so I have had a fair amount of exposure . But you are broadening my knowledge base . I find it very scary that there is so much unsafe grandfathered or stuff done unsafely by people who didnt know what they were doing type electrical situations out there . And finally you are reinforcing in me that I should not take on projects that are beyond my knowledge and experience .
I would say to anyone studying out there to keep trying and learning you will eventually get it. Sometimes other lessons will turn a light on so to speak. Never stop learning.
Great video, thanks for the information! Keep up the good work.
Great great teaching as always! Thank you for teaching us.
You’re an awesome teacher! Thank you for the thorough explanation!
Good overview, will be looking forward to the deep dive on this topic
hey man, really appreciate your videos. i work for a municipal utility and its good to know more about how electricians operate.
As an engineer they are not that confusing. Simply search metal oxide varistor's. It simply changes resistance in the presence of voltage. For SPD's they are chosen so that resistance is about zero below a threshold voltage say 300V past that it becomes more resistive, This causes the excess voltage to be converted into heat. Over time these heating cycles will break the device down or if a spike it too large melt it. This is where the joule rating comes in. The joules of heat the device can soak up because there is a time component to it and how long the spikes are.
Hi Dustin, Love your video. First of all I am not an Electrician. I just know the basic and that is why I watch video like yours to learn more. I have a question regarding Surge Protector and how some surge protector work. I'm talking about the one you install next to the unit like the AC compressor unit. I saw a video in installing a ICM493 and the connection to this connected is like a series connection. I can understand how it work. The surge will get detected by the ICM493 first before the AC compressor so it can cut off the power to the compressor. But the one that connect like a parallel connection like the ICM518 or the RSH50. Its connected or pigtailed to the L1 and L2 of the wires that goes into the AC compressor unit. Since it shares the same wire, when the line get a surge, it will send that surge to the AC compressor and the surge protector. Can you shed a little more light in how protector like the ICM518 or RSH50 protect my AC compressor. Thanks, Phil
Highly appreciate it bro just a lot to learn in the tray with this new technology I do commercial and residential currently in California and there’s a lot to learn take care Happy new year!!
Love your channel man, I've learned a ton .
Hey Dustin, thanks for all the content over the years. Has helped me tremendously. Quick question to anyone who may know regarding surge protected breakers: Would those protect against wear and tear on devices connected to that breaker during repeated on and off cycles of grid power to solar power and visa versa when used with a solar/battery automatic transfer switch? Thanks!
Many thanks, you cleared up much of my confusion. For that upcoming video you might get into dedicated surge protectors for particularly surge-prone devices such as HVACs. The exist as much to stop a surge from leaving the device as to protect it from them.
My sister was regularly having control boards blow out in her A/Cs. The two were installed alongside one another, so a surge from one would hit the other. I suggested she get HVAC protection on both and that seems to have helped.
I'm an audio guy learning more about electrician stuff, these voltage surge protectors remind me of what we call "limiters".
Love you too! that was awesome, can't wait for the future video ,were you cover the RMS and non-RMS voltage gradients, Peace
Excellent info. I am currently upgrading systems in the house I just got. Still has knob and tube in it if that says anything. One of the things I thought I splurged on was a Type 1 SPD. I put in a 200A shutoff outside with a 200A panel inside and ran 3/0 copper between the two. Small town so who knows how many surges happen but with my computer equipment I have always tried to keep them on a surge protector and often with battery backup abilities.
Anyway I have to wonder something. If there is a surge does the meter recognize that and if that is shunted to ground are you charged for it? If you are then wouldn't it be feasible assumption that we need to change something in the system so that the SPD sits before the meter or in the meter box?
Best info I've seen on surges. I would add the importance of a bonafide outlet ground for type 3 SPD's, otherwise no protection. And equally important, the system ground rod minimum of 2 rods when upgrading with SPD's, though some would say even more, in order to adequately dissipate surges.
I don’t think the ground rods have anything to do with this
Surges go to ground.
The less resistance to ground, which is where ground rods enter the equation, the better the surge protection.
I actually had to explain to an electrician why my sub panel needed a surge protector in addition to the main panel..the sub panel has a circuit which goes back outside via aerial to a chicken coop, rendering it vulnerable to any outside variables..
Please explain more
In addition to the main panel that the overhead neighborhood supply line comes into the house where the “main” surge protector is, I have two breakers panels inside, one upstairs and one down, the downstairs panel I had a line w two breakers run outside to the chicken coop, so if a lightning strike happened to hit near the coop line, it would go to that downstairs panel (and fry everything that panel provides power to) and bypass the surge protector in the main incoming panel..so, I had an additional surge protector placed into that downstairs panel. The electrician was saying the other protector would still provide protection, (which is dubious) but agreed that it was proper to go ahead with the caution.@@MrsBuddevil
Great video brother. Thanks for everything
Excellent explanation. Thank you.
Great video! If I put a Type 2 SPD on my main service panel (outdoors), do I still need one on the subpanel indoors? All the 240V devices are directly on the main service panel - all the 120 outlets and lights are on the subpanel.
Type 1 SPD's are on the line side of the service disconnect, like you said. Typical "type 1" devices are installed between your meter and the meter socket. They need to be approved by the Poco, and installed by the Poco.
Do you happen to know what companies make such Type-1 SPDs? I would love to look up the specs on some of these. About how much does one of them cost?
Another great video explanation, thank you .
Thanks for the knowledge!
This guys good, I've already learned a lot from a couple of his videos. Keep them coming thanks. A+++
This was exactly the explanation I was hoping for
5 year electrical here, Very informative thank you, I am going to buy that book you mention at first, I study the 2017 nec with my electrical courses, I am going to get the 2020 edition, So on that bathroom you could have designed a placement of a two gang gfci on the wall between the two sinks that's my observation on that...again thank you...!
Awesome coverage on thos topic. A new topic for future, dual function breakers and where they belong.
Great information thankyou. Question.. my computer backup device has been jumping up and down to 245 volts the appliances say 220 to 240 volts is 245 dangerous for my house and device's. Thankyou so much!
Thanks for this bit of information
GREAT TOPIC
I was in computer sale for a time. One of our customers was a bookkeeping service and as a result had numerous computers. There was a lot of sensitive data on these devices. We put in a surge proctor in the circuit that powered their computers. One day a large truck hit a power pole right outside their offices. it brought down a transmission line (the one that feeds the transformer) across the line from the transformer to the building. I'm told it was 35K volts. It indeed blew up the surge protector. The result was the computers were fine, but the surge protector was toast.
Dude, my forte is mostly in avionics, so I've had some technical classes and getting to know construction electrical in my retirement years can be so interesting and yet confusing. I'm sure you have your own business going, but because of your uncanny ability to instruct and in an understandably effective way, you should always keep training/consulting as future aspirations. If the money is there, you should go for it. Be the next Mike Holt and beyond. Thanks once again for sharing your knowledge, it's what makes the world a better place to live. God bless you and all of your endevours!
Good stuff, thx for breaking it down.
I wish you had also mentioned more technical specs related to selecting devices. technical things like L-L, L-N clamping voltage, response time, and joule ratings. Perhaps this would be an idea for a future video.
Wow 😯 well done and well explained. Feeling smarter 🤓after watching this lol . Ty 😎👍👍
Decent voltage surge can take a lot of electronics with it. It happened to a friend of mine after sub station failed during the storm and Hydro reconnected power a few times.
Love the video! Really recommend type 2 if you have solar panels. Replace a lot of solar products because of power surges.
Great presentation.
Thanks for sharing the coolest
Just like to say you did a nice job on the video
Awesome info!
Hi, in sub panel where neutrals and grounds are separated do you cnnect your white from spd to white or ground bar? Tia
Very informative video, though it did bring up a few questions. My house has a surge protector located in my meter box. It was installed by my electric service company. I am charged for this service. On my electric company bill, the extra fee is listed as SURGE. Does this protect me from surges, except for direct lighting hits? Should I replace my regular breakers with SPD breakers? Do I only need to use them to protect my high AMP breakers such as AC, electric stove, water heater, cloths dryer, etc.?
So question, we have installed an external surge protector on a panel feeding an IT room. It’s just tied to a 40A breaker. I’m wondering how does it work when it’s only tied to the bussing instead of having feeders coming in and loading the rest of the panel off the surge protector.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge , it was very beneficial .∞ ❤ly teaching 👌👏👏👏🙏
Outstanding video. Sincerely , HVAC tech
Quick question, I work electrical maintenance and automation controls at an industrial facility. We have a bunch of expensive machinery that runs off a busway system. Could this work by putting a spd in the panel that feeds the busway? Have had vfd's that got fried from power outages in the past. Its 208v 3 phase if that matters
Hey Dustin what would you recommend for a bunch of appliances that together equal around 4,500 watts. I've been looking for power strips/surg protectors that can handle that kind of load and I haven't been able to find any the highest I've been able to see is 1, 800watts and they're rated for 2000 Joules surge protection.
Hi. I have a Siemens CB Panel. My interlock and 30 amp CB for my generator is on the top right. If I put a type 1 SPD and wire it below that breaker. Will all my loads below be protected?
Will the whole left side be protected as well? Or do I have to put another SPD on the Left side top of the panel on the load side?
I hope I’m clear. Thank you. All the best to you and family. Mike i.
Very informative, thanks. What about protecting DC PV systems?
ElectricianU can you please do a video on ground vs neutral, bonding, etc.
If all available breaker locations are taken, can you change some to half breakers to have a pair of slots available for a SPD? Is there any kind of breaker panel mounted line conditioner to reduce electrical noise as well? Thankyou
thank you for your video. great tutelage
We have type 2 protection on most of our panels at work, connected to a separate 220v breaker. What if you wanted to add one to a panel that has no spaces left? Can it be wired in parallel to an existing 220v circuit?
👍clear as mud, most concepts and terms are new to me, I'll have to review a few times. Thank you so much
@ElectricianU i just noticed the first book on the left you have on your shelf introduction to electrical theory I have the same one! wasn't ever able to get through any of the math. instead I read mike holts electrical theory. book a few times
Question: I just purchased and connect a whole home generator, and after its first test run…both of my refrigerators are now having issues. It’s obviously from the generator, but Not sure what the issue is. When the air conditioners kick on while on the generator the lights to the house dim pretty aggressively for 1 second and then go back to normal. Could this be because of a voltage dip, which then causes the refrigerators to have an issue? And if so is there a surge protector that protects against dips? Thanks so much!
I think a better example with surge protectors and lightning, is packing a vase in bubble wrap. The surge protector is the bubble wrap, it won't protect electrical equipment, or the vase as an example, from the epicenter of an earthquake, but it will from the tremors felt far away from the epicenter.
That was well explained follow you all the way thank you 👍
Wow, who would of thunk! Great video very informative. Thank you
Dustin!! I’m about to take my service from aerial to ug, I plan on running the main feed to a unistrut frame with a meter socket, automatic transfer switch and feed through load center. What is they best type 1 spd available on the market right now?
I have 1 question please ;
under the main breaker , I have a 50 amps on both side , there is no away to move any of those , but the one under I am able to move them , can I put that SP 1 below the one wich I can not move ? What will happen if I put 1 below ?
For surge protector like Siemens QSPD, from their instruction video looks like it doesn't have to be on the first slot that's closest to the breaker main switch. If there's a surge, say it's installed on far away from the breaker main switch, does it mean those before the surge protector will fry? Or it will go to the surge protector as a least resistant path? How does it work really?
I'm using an ebike and trailer to haul around electric lawn equipment. Is there a surge suppressor that will protect a charging li-ion battery and charger while operating high amp equipment from it? I'm looking at the TrippLite Isobar line currently.
Since electricians already know about this problem it’s something they should automatically be installing. They really shouldn’t need a code to force it. In my industry there are things I include in my price, it does make me higher but the customer needs it. It’s not optional with me. In my home I use battery backups for critical systems. I have surge protection directly on my AC units. Here, Only the utility company will install a type 1 and they charge monthly. I also have protection in my breaker panel.
Surge protectors are rated in by their Voltage Protection Rating (VPR). That is the minimum voltage that the device will engage. The minimum rating by definition is a VPR of 330 volts. They are also rated for Maximum Continuous Operating Voltage (MCOV) which is the max voltage that the device can be exposed. Joule and short circuit current ratings have no meaning for protection. The problem is they are all the same device so they have to try to differentiate from each other. A $10 protector can work as well as a $100 one.
VPR does not represent when the device engages. VPR represents voltage (MLV) that gets passed the SPD after a surge has been applied (6000V/3000Amps) after SPD engaged it (UL 1449). VPR also is not the actual voltage it let through - but result is placed into a pre-set range which begins at 330 (generally increases between 100-1000 volts per stage). It provides an idea of how SPD can perform when installed correctly. A $10 SPD works as well as a $100 SPD? How and for what? What SPDs are used for may be the same but SPDs are not the same. MCOV - every electrical piece of equipment has an operating range (MCOV for SPDs). That's why you have 120/240, 480, 240, 120/208, 24VDC, 48VDC etc and equipment that require those voltages to operate. Short circuit ratings are represented for safety and application but certainly can affect overall surge protection capability.
Great information...Thanks a million !!!
You bet!
@@ElectricianU Is there any company in Austin, TX you would recommend working for that does new construction & commercial work that you have had a good experience learning the trade? I realize I could just google a bunch of companies but is there one or two that you feel has impacted your career??
I also have a sub panel , will it be practical to install a spd in sub where most(90%) of equipment are powered from instead of a small protector at ea😢ch work station or tv 3rd ? TIA
Wowzers! Thanks dude,
First off love your videos, very educational and thankyou. So recently I upgraded a main panel from a northern pacific to a homeline natural on ground, installing duel function gfci and arc fault. So the talk around my area is now do we need gfci receptacles? Well anyway, maybe your thoughts on this.
Thanks for watching!
If you are getting a dual function breaker (afci GFCI) no need for the GFCI at the point of use.
Would this type of protection be effective against sustained overvoltage? I had a situation with a standby generator that went overvoltage to >400v and destroyed the mov devices in connected equipment causing a fire.
Greate buddy.the best explanation!!!
I have an old home, and there are quite a few outlets that are only 2 wire (no ground), which makes plug-in surge protectors useless. If I were to buy one of these SPDs to install in my breaker box, would this protect the devices using the 2 wire outlets from power surges?
Do you need both Type 1 and Type 2 protector installed? I saw most only install type 2, but you seem to have both, what is the reason?
Do the amp ratings represent how much current the device can shunt away without burning up? For these devices to limit the voltage they need to provide a very low resistance path to ground and therefore will draw a large current.
Your a great teacher
Which is the over and under voltage protector you recommend for single phase 20A
I need to put in surge protection. However there is not enough room in the 100 amp main meter panel. It is small with no room. So the sub panel I installed (replacing a Pushmatic by the way) has plenty of room. My question is will the surge protector protect the whole system or only the sub panel I install it in? Update: So I just got my answer by watching your SPD install video. Protection is reduced, the "let in voltage" increases by the distance coming in from the main panel to the device location. Thanks.