TEMU SUPERCHARGED KEI CAR Starts for the first time!
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- čas přidán 24. 06. 2024
- The Supercharged Kei car starts & runs for the first time! Will I have to file a claim on Temu or will this AMR500 supercharger work? Watch to find out!
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You don't need a smaller belt. You need a bigger pulley. Thall fix all the problems with the high boost and the heat.
Exactly after all that’s how one adjust the boost on a supercharger 😂 101 supercharger lessons 😂
You cant drive a supercharger so fast Just stupid making heat and now power
Exactly what I was gonna say
No you add a wastegate to the charge pipe lmfao. The only boost control you have for a supercharger is by changing the pulley size, that's it.
@@raymondhjelleverli3720 a bigger pulley on the supercharger would spin it slower.
Put the stock pulley on the supercharger it's bigger and it will turn less
Move throttle in front of supercharger, as in most cars with a supercharger (Hellcat, Chevy LS9 etc.). Something like a draw-througt turbo system. This will significantly quieten supercharger at low revs. The disadvantage is that there will be negative pressure in entire intake system and intercooler when the throttle is closed, so you will have to ensure intake is tight. At the same time, intake will not heat up as much because in negative pressure supercharger will have nothing to compress.😉
@@StingrayOfficial I don't know if that makes sense. Superchargers in Hellcats, Corvettes and Mustang GT500s work in a vacuum and nothing bad happens.
might also need a bypass valve
As said either move the TB to a draw threw, or put a recirculation /bypass circuit ..
Procharger kits are a belt driven blower mounted on brackets, they all have a bov to bleed boost at idle
That's what a blow off valve is for. Helps bleed off the boost at lower throttle positions.
If you put a bigger pulley on the charger not only will it make more tension on the belt it will also lower the boost
Get a larger pulley to lower boost. If its making that boost at that low of rpm its going to make alot more with rpm.
(Bigger diameter pulley, of course. Possibly making all the other connected pulleys wider like the unit came with to prevent that belt slippage, ...if they'll fit. )
Superchargers do generate a lot of heat due to constantly building boost even at idle, especially if they are stationary and not moving air over the intercooler, and top mounts, they are incredibly bad when stationary and even moving a heat soaked engine bay with turn the intercooler into an interheater. I've got a Toyota GTT Caldina with a 3SGTE and they come factory top mount, first thing I did was convert it to front mount just cause how bad top mounts are, that little intercooler would be better placed in one of the cut outs in the front bumper.
The exhaust is open and rite there dumping to which wasn’t helping
Top mounts work if there is a good scoop to bring air down, otherwise it is very bad.
@@3magikarpinamansuit281 Works good for a short time, again, I've got a car that comes with one factory, its good but once you've been driving for 20-30mins, the heat soak from the engine turns it into a interheater.
you just need a bigger pulley. It will spin slower and make less boost. The heat is from over spinning it because of the size of the crank pulley, and that is what blows them up too.
Well, you obviously have too small a diameter pulley for your engine speed there: remember it turns just about as fast as your engine in a linear way, modified by the leverage on the pulleys. So supercharger will spin slower with a bigger pulley on it, thus not give too much boost till you get the revs up. :)
#1 you may be overdriving the amr500 so it needs a bigger pulley
#2 you can run a blow off valve in between the supercharger and the intercooler that stays open under vacuum and closes under boost and pick a vacuum source on the other side of the throttle body so at idle it will be open and then as rmps kick up and the s/c starts boosting it will close.
when you compress air it heats up. the same in a turbo. you have "X" amount of energy and you compress it in to a smaler space. the heat get "concentrated"
if you have the throtlebody in front of the compressor you will not be pushing air thru it at idle.
and you adjust the boost lvl by switching out the pullies.
Good content again Sammit, nice to fallow along while you try fun stuff and some r&d. nice read all the nice comments here giving good advice and knowledge.
Definitely get a bigger pulley will help with the heat and building so much boost also you can put blow of valves on supercharged engines
Definitely need a bypass valve to get an idle
Sounded like you strapped a whipper snipper to it on that start up 😂
Love the KEI car content! As others have said the ideal setup would have the throttle body before the charger and a bigger pulley to lower the boost.
Sam you singing is too funny bro!!!
pretty stoked can’t wait to see how that van run when Sam gets it dialed in
Digging this build and defo want to see more cheap car builds! Junkyard build when?
Hey Sam great video as always, I think you should check the charger as it warms up and find out where that heat is coming from, a flur would be perfect, also I suggest adding a computer style fan under that cooler pulling toward the engine 🤙
This is going to be a fun project Sam can't wait to see what you do with it
Think its good and helps you learn new things and hope I can see it when I go to the merch shop July 9 but dont worry I wont bother your work, aussie respect here.
Like many have said, bigger pulley to reduce low rpm boost buildup.
And on the other note, while big dream car builds are fancy, sometimes its more fun to build up a nugget.
Currently building up an 06 suzuki every turbo 5spd rwd over here, cant wait to get it done and on the road for fun, without breaking speed limits 😅
Kei car content let’s goooo
That's cool man! I didn't have much hopes for that supercharger but it actually makes boost lol impressive! To regulate the boost you can mess with the pulley sizes but you'll also have to get different size belts as well
the rotors are plastic coated they will melt eventually unless you cool them water meth would work people usually have them sucking on a carby so the fuel cools them
Mad boost …………😮
can’t wait to see this wagon leave 11’s down the road 👌
Sammit the diecast car is sick but id still Yamaha R6 swap , Turbo , aero/wrap , suspension/wheels beat the heck out of it and have way more fun 👍
I need long form build videos, I love the info in this
Sammit is doing his hardest not to work on his abandoned S15 and his two road pink S12s. I believe he still has a black GTT that we don't have any idea where she is.
Lol he’s just having fun bro
Yes a car update on all cars would be good I actually forgot about the other 32 also the give away stagea is still in his hands
@@seangamblin1717 i know, what got me hooked on his channel is him working on those abondoned cars. we want updates 😆
@@joshkeen6558 yeah that i subscribed to sam ever since he got that 32 🥲
someone get sam a propper moveable workbench this man is always working on the floor
Yes, superchargers make a lot of heat in the charge air due to all the friction. It could be getting extra hot though because of how close it is to the exhaust- if you could move it farther you should. If you want to make less boost, you should change pully diameters (smaller on the crank and/or larger on the charger). You could also add a wastegate or blowoff valve to the charge pipe to relieve pressure too, i think turbo smart makes an electronically controlled one.
With a centrifugal supercharger you need a bov on the discharge pipe before the intercooler… which if set right will also act like a bypass valve to bleed off what air isn’t needed. You have everything else right👍
bigger supercharger pulley will solve your problem as it is over spinning and that is what's creating the heat 🔥 🔥
Reverse the pulleys to start. You need to slow it down. You can also run a A/C electric clutch on it to be able to run it NA or boosted, we’ve done that on a boat motor with the little Amazon super charger.
22:36 all positive Displacement blowers like that are heat pumps they are always compressing air so they tend to need alot more air charge cooling than a turbo or centrifugal supercharger. Also, as far as boost control goes, most have a boost bypass valve like a small throttlebody.. could possibly use a wastegate plumbed into the charge piping
working on this tiny motor with the flywheel makes you look like a giant in comparison. lie a mini car for real. imagine putting that motor setup in a gocart.... that would be sick
the bypass valve will open on vacuum and close when it sees boost from the reference
commented on your last video, these types of blower need a blow off valve with a very weak spring to act as a bypass valve. It will stop the blower eating itself and fix all these idle and heat issues
@ 4:30 he knew he f'd up. Lol
Put the exaust back put an airfilter plus a heat shield because the cat is next to it.
racegate is useful release trapped air
when you get too much boost and air cant escape it become super hot where cant touch it and installing racegate to release air reduce heat issues
Put a bigger pulley on charger to cut down on boost at idle. That should also help with belt slip
This is going to be fun
you can add a blowoff valve and let it blow down under light throttle like most procharged cars do when building boost that they can't use.
You put a blow off valve to an intake vacuum sorce to help with part throttle but as everyone else says needs a bigger pulley to make less boost.
Love the building content especially k cars
Bigger pully Sam and a dump valve to remove pressure on idle control it with vacuum
The Kei car doesn’t need a Link Ecu, it needs a FMU that raises fuel pressure with boost
Leave the pulley alone, install a bov and plumb it to vacuum, you need the bov open at idle, most superchargers have a bypass valve that stays open at idle to bleed off boost
21:40 when you install the air intake side of the supercharger, put a fuel injector in front of the blower intake so the fuel cools it off... fuel line from OEM fuel rail "T-fitting" to added injector, put a brake peddle switch on the gas peddle to turn on the injector. a big injector that is nearly the flow rate of the engines normal injectors. ... more so get the added gas peddle switch positioned to turn on right where the engine sees 1psi boost. 90% of normal driving is in the -15psi to -8psi range.
a water mister/fogger on a momentary button as well along with the fuel injector, to cool it off before a big drag? would also clean out any carbon that builds up on the low end of the slight over fueling from the static flow/rpm range single injector. if that car has any O2 sensor and a basic OBDII system? should still be trying to self correct for fuel or put out a lean/rich fuel code.
that is some top flight engineering right there homie lol
Grind Hard Plumbing did a project with I think Hoonigan where they installed a small supercharger similar to the one Sam used and it was extemely loud like that. Couldn't even hear the engine running.
Custom exhaust
Fuel pressure regulator up the pressure max the pump .
Stock injectors
Map sensor upgrade ???
Churr sammy fabrication
you need to run a blow off valve to release the pressure at idle
100% agree with a good bulk of the other comments you dont want to go a smaller belt you want a bigger 4pk pulley the one you got is to small witch is what is causeing the massive over boost issue bigger pulley less boost plus will solve the tension issues also id swap back to the 7pk pulley for now and test it
clutches on those 660s look like a 5.5 inch indy car clutch would fit xd
Rocking the FamiMa socks 🤘
@sammit, I recommend using a 2:1 pulley ratio. This change will reduce the RPM by half and slightly decrease the horsepower, but it will significantly increase the torque. Lower revs will also help in maintaining cooler temperatures and prevent heat soak.
Get a denso map sensor from a JZ or Glanza Starlet and it'll see boost (Should be the same plug).
Also: intake through the headlight and make it a HELLKEI
.5 BAR just bumping the throttle to 2k RPM is crazy for a supercharger. Why it's so loud. Would be cool to send it, but it might immediately fail without a supercharger specific BBV (boost bypass valve.) Superchargers do heat soak, but it's possibly being rung out way too much. 🤔
add a blow off valve or bypass valve like a procharger setup it will get rid of the crazy whine at idle.
bro you must have made 30 psi reving that thing at one point, I was worried you're going to blow it up.
You need a bleed off valve (Bypass valve ,waste gate) they run off vacuum and put the Throttle body in front of the supercharger should work alot better. Maybe a larger pulley to slow it down for now to get everything working
Bigger pulley with help with the boost and adding a bov will help. I'm mind blown with how this is working I thought for sure it would break.
Bush style. Great to see Yugo and Well done . Bogan Aussie style. 🙏✌️🇦🇺
also my super charger is after my throttle body. a bigger pully on the s/c will make less boost a smaller one will make more. so you could always play with pully size
you could add a blowoff valve on the intake pipe to help with over boost and i think this thing needs a link ecu
If you have a hook-up at a machine shop, see if you can get metal internals to replace the plastic ones. It would probably sound a lot different too. I hope it lasts long enough to be a cool project.
Yeah go to the bigger pulley that should help lower boost and add tension. Adding the filter will quiet it a bit but sounds like others in the comments know a lot more than me when it comes to the throttle body moving in front of the charger somehow
Cool the supercharger with computer cooling blocks.
I know you have a spare K-series engine You know what's up
You mean a few K20 and K24...😉
What about the abandoned r32, abandoned s15, the OG s15 come on Sammit your letting your ADD control you 😂
I had a power steering pump sound exactly the same on my mustang when it went bad lol.
Sound wicked can't wait to see how much fun you can have with this little shit rocket lol
You should have kept the 7 rub pulley on that supercharger and you should have gotten a much larger one to underdrive the system as well. that would have helped greatly to manage heat and the high boost pressures. Those cheap superchargers lose 80% efficiency as lost friction heat anything over 4 PSI of constant boost pressure. Another reason your supercharger casing is getting so hot is because you're having to keep the belt tension so tight to keep it from slipping because you switched from a 7 rib system to a 5 rib, this is why superchargers have such wide belts is for the grip on the pulleys...
You need a blow of in order to not heat sock the intercooler. Because when you let of the throttle the boost has nowhere to go so it will ether go the way it came (supercharger) or it will repel the energy in heat. In this case it's a bit of both because in some
U can put a dump valve to controle the pressure in the intake.
That amount of heat is probably what contributes to plastic delaminating from rotors. Also regarding the noise,every video I've watched with these chargers they are all super loud.makes u wonder what causes them to make so much noise. Too tight of tolerances on rotors?gear mesh? I'd like to see if there's any metal in oil even after running for such a short time.maybe look for shiny spots on rotors caused from tight clearances. Is there a way to cool rotors with fuel? Meth injection before the charger? Can't wait to see next video.(with bigger pulley on charger)
Bigger pulley, make the supercharger spin at a lower RPM, less heat, less boost, less problems
You could try a stock turbo ecu, and you could do a water to air cooler and run methanol threw it to keep temps good, also a larger pulley will drop boost
Turbosmart makes something called a boost gate which is in essence a wastegate for the charge pipe
You just need to put a blow off valve on the pipe. Thats what everyone does with these! Also if you put the stock pulley (if it's bigger) it will lower the boost and it'll run cooler. But like I said if you put a blow off on the pipe it'll definitely run cooler and won't force boost at the throttle plate and cause heat
I would do some oldschool Fins on the pipes and the charger sense it’s so fare forward? An maybe it’s own electric fan on the hood to pull air from the top Why not 🤷🏻♂️ I’ve been trying to find them for newer cars and im thinking of doing it for mine…. Can’t beat it!!
You should get other people into these cars and do stuff together like make a kei car racing series or a demo derby or car soccer or drag racing
Small pulley, fast spinning. Big pulley, slower spin, lower boost, won’t overheat
Looks like that intercooler needs some RGB fans 😂
You look like the mad mechanic in the thumbnail lol
Sam as others said, put a bigger pulley on the supercharger. That will lower the boost, and keep the heat down.
Don't go smaller = more heat
That pulley might be too small for that setup
You should look how the bmw MINI R53 supercharger setup is, in theory it has 2 throttle bodies... a main thottle body and a bypass valve to skip the intercooler for idle.
fav car on channel
waiting for part 3 😂😂😂❤❤❤
Bigger pulley will reduce boost, and possibly your belt slip aswell
if you make to much boost ... use a bigger pulley to change ratio from engine rev to charger rev
Hi some people don't use wastegate, they control boost pressure with a dump valve. Maybe you can put an e-gate and make it close when you hop on the throttle.
sam get the ecu the maf sensor and the injectors and fuel pressure regulator from a turbo engine that should fix the problem cheers from down under
Just drive in Japan in a nice street car Sam , would love to see that not weird car build
move throttle body on the charger inlet and put a bigger pulley on the charger should drop ur boost a bit
Larger pulley will fix the issue and yes there is a supercharger waste gate they call it a bypass valve usually its used with a combine set up with turbocharger but just a supercharge set up would be a waste, yes supercharger do run hot in your case I think they were spinning way too fast causing stupid boost