Boiled Linseed Oil Vs 100% Pure Tung Oil After 5 Years
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- čas přidán 27. 09. 2023
- On paper, Tung oil seems to be the obvious choice over linseed oil. Just the idea that linseed oil has a more amber hue alone, detracts people like me from wanting to use it. In this video I compare the look of each oil on the same wood project, clipboards made from some of my favorite hardwoods, and compare the two finished clipboards visually after they are cured and 5 years after use.
A few notes about the video:
I do not provide thorough application instructions in this video. If that is what you are after please check out my "How to apply 100% Pure Tung Oil The Right Way Video." ( • How to Apply Pure Tung... )
While I did not show it in the video, I applied three coats of Pure Tung Oil. The first coat I diluted 1:1 with mineral spirits. The second coat was 2 parts Tung oil to 1 part mineral spirits. And the third coat was Pure Tung Oil undiluted.
I only applied one coat of Boiled Linseed Oil which may be the reason why it didn't live up to the amber hue hype. Three coats are recommended for the oil I used. I did it differently and the results weren't earth shattering. You may have different results - you are going to have to determine your own path, but I believe in you.
Music by Chris Sessions: "They Dreamed of Freedom", and "Cry of the Wildflower." Gratefully used with permission from the musician. Check him out on your favorite music listening platforms. ( / @chrissessions6108 ) - Jak na to + styl
I loved this: "Wood finishes are like people. We should want people to succeed, not fail."
"The world is as beautiful as you let it be." I appreciated the uplifting philosophical commentary!
I am glad you can appreciate it! For me, I have found it to be accurate to a T. Thank you for letting me use your sweet tunes!
I have been using pure tung and linseed oil for over 50 years. The old cans of linseed used to have instructions for applying the finish. First you apply the un-thinned oil and keep applying as the oil soaks into the wood, keeping the surface wet for about 15 minutes. Then wipe the surface dry and let it sit for about an hour. Finally, repeat the above process, but also sand the wood with fine sandpaper while the oil is wet.
Let it dry 24 hours before use.
Apply wax now and then for added protection and shine.
This finish, in my opinion, is best used for furniture that does not receive much wear and tear. Like a dresser in a bedroom. Alcoholic beverages can leave circle stains. Desktops will not do well unless sanded down and refinished yearly. Skin oil and dirt will mix with the tung and linseed oil finish and leave dark stains.
These oils are excellent for cutting boards because they are non-toxic food safe. Re-apply when the surface looks dull.
Some people like the look of a table-top that shows stains, marks, and patina from the years of use by a family. Only an oil finish lends itself to this natural beauty.
DO NOT LEAVE OILY RAGS IN A PILE BECAUSE THEY CAN AND WILL SELF-COMBUST AND START FIRES.
I really liked the way you ended things. Thank you for sharing!
This is really neat to see, thank you for sharing! I followed the instructions from your video +/-5 years ago on a dresser that i was refinishing. The dresser later became the kid's main dresser and a large fish tank placed on top. There are layers of hard water over the finish now, but that pine has lasted years of abuse and I believe it would have at least warped (if not rotted) if it weren't for the process you taught of applying the tung oil.
I also appreciate the application of the principle demonstrated 😁 wood finishing is not a one-size-fits-all scenario. Neither are people. That's thought provoking. Well said.
That's awesome! I am glad you got to try it out and it worked for you. That really was the goal of that video. There are so many comments on the other video asking for advice on if Tung Oil is what "I should use for this?" type questions. The simple answer is: "I don't know. What do you think?" It seems we live in a world where few seam to realize that nobody knows everything about anything.
The linseed oil isnt boiled. Its chemically treated to try to imitate what boiling would do.
The one I have, and likely will always continue, to want to see is amber melted into an oil. I've always wondered how it would look, if it would fill grain, etc. Such a cool concept
Thaks
Hi, I really like your video! I have a question for you though…
My grandfather made me a wrist wrest for my keyboard out of pine wood, and I am now wondering what oil you would recommend I coat it with? I’d like to make sure it lives a long life. It will be in contact with my skin/hands often.
I have never done any woodwork but I would love to get involved one day when I have room for my own work station.
Thank you, and subscribed!
I am going to start using 100% tung oil on my new bee hives..its not toxic to my bees and looks nice on the box ..not to mention cheaper than paint
I have done similar experiments with boiled linseed oil and pure tung oil (although only over a couple months, not five years!) and I also have not found them that different. I have not yet noticed any differences in the way that they color the wood. The most obvious tell, to me, is that tung oil seems to leave a slightly more shiny finish that sits on top of the wood, whereas linseed oil completely soaks in and seems to be more matte (though they are both pretty matte). I prefer the smell of linseed oil, while I like the food-safe qualities of tung oil, so I use them both in different projects even though they are extremely similar - equally gorgeous!
Tung oil is superior in every way. To the point where I wont use BLO anymore. I love tung oil
What happened to you? Share the story.
Please elaborate.
@@Melodysdadvideos Tung oil prevents mold/mildew unlike BLO, it provides better moisture resistance, doesnt amber as much and when polymerized it's more durable. BLO is cheaper and dries fast bc of the metal driers. Pur tung oil has to be applied thin or it wont dry properly. When applied correctly it will dry with 24-48 hrs. Polymerized tung oil (sutherland welles, or lee valley brand) dries just ads fast as BLO and is even more durable than pure tung oil. Very small amounts of oil are needed to get a proper finish, so even at the higher expense, tung oil's performance is just unmatched.
The information on your video was great, but the background music was really loud and distracting...
I am building a desktop out of 1.5 inch pine. Would pure tung oil as a finish be durable enough? Other recommendations? My original plan was two coats of Minwax tung oil, and third coat of a mix of Minwax tung oil with a little spar urethane mixed in.
It would depend on your preference of either a flat or glossy look. The desk I am at right now, I finished with Minwax Tung Oil if not a very similar product. It isn't flashy looking, but not quite as flat as a pure tung oil either. If you are dealing with a live edge, I would go for epoxy, and I would fill in all cracks with dyed epoxy. Have seen furniture finished like that? It looks pretty sweet (and is more durable).
On the second coat of tung oil, you said diluted 1:2, is that 1 oil + 2 spirit, or 1 spirit + 2 oil? Thanks.
The second one. I start out by pouring pure tung oil in a cup and an equal amount of mineral spirits by eye. I put on the first coat, and then for the second coat, I add more pure tung oil to the mix, by eye again, to make it about two parts oil to 1 part mineral spirits. The third coat and any subsequent coats I don't bother diluting it. Someone just spit out their drink reading this, and will tell you their superior way of doing it, just know, they are right. I am just sharing a method I have used to obtain a result I am happy with. I would recommend watching my other video which shows how I apply it in full.
@@Melodysdadvideos Thank you for your reply!
I have a wooden practice sword called a Bokken. It is made out of nice Japanese Maple. What finish would you put on it to protect it from changes in humidity?
I am not familiar with those so I asked my lovely assistant Go0gie about it, and she says people traditionally are using Camellia Oil on those? I have never heard of that oil before. If it were my project I would research into that oil a bit more. But Japanese Maple is a hard Maple, which surprisingly isn't in those clipboards. Both of the maples in the clipboards are soft Maples (less Janka hardness). If I remember right, hard Maple takes pure tung oil well without ambering as much as soft Maple. I have some frames around the house, I could show you what it looks like in a short.
@@Melodysdadvideos Thank you for your reply. I have never heard of Camellia oil either. I think I will try the Tung oil. Thanks for your help.
So basically both are on par with one another even after 5 years ?
Difference is tung oil is 4 times more cost to buy.
For my specific use (clipboard), that seems to be the case. I do use these often, I have even stepped on one which you can kind of see a slight crack in the video, but it still has held up just fine.
Na střenky nožů jsem Lněný olej přestal používat, jelikož jej kožené pouzdro nože ze střenek jakoby vysálo, Tungový olej drží mnohem lépe a tohle nedělá.
Why didn’t you apply three coats of boiled linseed oil also. It would have been more of a fair comparison.
As someone who has used boiled linseed oil numerous times I have never just used one coat.
I wanted them to look the same. If I had applied that much boiled linseed oil then it would have been more amber than I wanted. I think if I were to test them on an outdoor project, I definitely would have done the same amount of coats.
What is the best finish for wood ring?
Polyurethane like Arm R Seal will last a while but a ring will get so beat up that if you wan the finish to remain looking good, polymerized tung oil is a good option
Thank you for your answer@@greg2337
If it were me...and I am answering this with no skin in your project, I would probably use an epoxy, thinned. Hopefully, I took too long to answer and you already finished it. What did you go with and how did it turn out?
I wanted to watch the whole thing but the music was so annoying. so I just skipped and you did not get well-deserved view time etc. please consider lowering or removing the music. we are here for the info and the great test, not for entertainment. thank you for your effort!
Great video... But you didn't have any kind of conclusion....
Man that background music is soooo loud, can hardly hear you talk.
THE MUSIC IS TOO LOUD AND ANNOYING...VIDEO COULD HAVE DONE WITHOUT IT!!!
Lower the sound of that ugly background music!
Tung oil is from China, and the Chinese don't use pure tung oil on the wood finish. Normally you have to heat treat the tung oil first before applying it to wood so that it can dry out fast and form a hard coat.....
I remember reading that products labelled as "pure tung oil" have undergone that heat treatment already and that nobody sells pure untreated tung oil, although I have no idea how I'd verify that claim.
@@winrawrisyou you can buy unadulterated tung oil from lots of places. The polymerization process isn't done to it.
Im wondering what both linseed and tung oil do when exposed to sunshine and rain as my experience is that linseed goes black quit quickly. Iam testing tung oil outside/sunshine and rainas we speak