A Better Way To Apply Oil Finishes!
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- čas přidán 17. 06. 2024
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+Make your own using Hope’s Tung Oil - amzn.to/3I2H687 and Food Grade Citrus Solvent - amzn.to/3l3XYSC
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+Tried & True Varnish Oil - amzn.to/3YmZiOS
+Walrus Oil Furniture Finish - amzn.to/3jtpIzX
+Blue Shop Towels - amzn.to/3YosTIp
Are you looking for a better way to apply oil finishes? You've come to the right place! Applying natural drying oils such as tung oil, walnut oil, or linseed oil isn't difficult, but you can really screw things up if you apply it like other finishes. So be sure to watch the entire guide to learn not only how to apply oil finishes, but why the method I recommend is the least likely to cause issues regardless of the oil, the wood, or the conditions in which you're applying it. And in spite of my attempt at humor in the thumbnail, there ARE other ways to apply oil that can work. So if you have something that's working for you, stick with it. I'm not here to change your mind. But if you've been having issues with oil finishes and you'd like to save a little money, try my recommendation.
00:00 - Intro
00:24 - How to Apply Tung Oil w/ Citrus Solvent
02:43 - Applying Pure Tung Oil
03:33 - Is this the only way?
04:01 - The Flooding Method
06:17 - Why is Flooding Problematic?
09:38 - My new Guild course! - thewoodwhispererguild.com/pro...
10:29 - Demonstrating Curing Problems
15:47 - Water Absorption Test
20:27 - Why do companies recommend the flooding method?
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It's a long video. Let me help!
00:00 - Intro
00:24 - How to Apply Tung Oil w/ Citrus Solvent
02:43 - Applying Pure Tung Oil
03:33 - Is this the only way?
04:01 - The Flooding Method
06:17 - Why is Flooding Problematic?
09:38 - My new Guild course! - thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/criss-cross-dining-table-bench/
10:29 - Demonstrating Curing Problems
15:47 - Water Absorption Test
20:27 - Why do companies recommend the flooding method?
Pin it!
Thanks for the tips, Marc! I find myself using a fair amount of oil and varnish blends like watco danish oil and similar things (not on cutting boards, but other knick-knack type projects) and I’m curious if your advice would be the same for those types of finishes?
Years ago I think there was a treatment for wood before you put the finish on that was supposed to close the pores of the wood so it didn't soak up finish so bad. Is that a thing? Do we not do that now?
Have put tung oil 5 times. before wiping. Each time I apply oil, l decrease time before wiping because it's always sticky. With 320 grit in between. Last coat was 5min before wiping . Still sticky. Help!
@@jack002tuber i tried to seal wood with thinned waterbased sanding sealer before laying natural wood oil. Seems to be working just fine. I made sure the 1st layer already dried up, before laying down the oil.
I think that your explanations were accurate. I have been applying finishes for more than 35 years and have tried many different materials with many different application techniques. Here’s what I’ve learned: 1. Unless the finish is self-polymerizing (two part finishes or loaded with drying agents) thin coats are always better, in the majority of cases a diluted thin first layer is best. 2. Cure time is crucial, period. The finish is the final step of craftsmanship, and you need to be prepared to “finish” the finish. Rush through this stage and your perfect joinery and meticulous wood selection and preparation will simply look like crapmanship instead of craftsmanship.
Hi mmgross. How would you recommend going about applying a Waterlox tung oil finish to antique heart pine ceiling joists? The joists are "rough sawn" original and I don't intend to hand plane or sand, as I've already used a sandblaster to remove some of the patina, revealing clean wood underneith but also resulting in a rough texture. My thought is to first deep clean, first with air compressor and then with a wire brush dipped in mineral spirits. Then, I would apply thinned-out Waterlox tung oil via a ROLLER, being a bit aggressive to make sure I get full coverage but then coming back a few minutes after initial application and wiping away excess with rags (or even with a "dry roller"?). After waiting a day or two I would come back and scuff sand a touch to knock-down the first coat, then repeat the process albeit maybe not being so aggressive with my roller application on coats 2 and 3. Do you think I've got this right? What would you recommend? Thank you for your time!
@@MrGrillguy44: Seems reasonable. How did it work out?
@@HighRPMCreationslike so many of my home projects, i haven't gotten to this yet. Lol. I was also hoping mmgross (or others) would chime in and offer feedback on my plan.
Marc bring the science back and not just spreading the same old rumors that some think are common knowledge. It is always great to have a more scientific approach! Thanks Marc!
Rumors in woodworking is just crazy, so little fact 😄
Yes! My career is in computers, and often things only work at all if you do them a very specific and correct way explained in technical docs. I sometimes find it tough navigating hobbies like woodworking or cooking, where advice is all hearsay and "trust me bro". Really appreciate this channel's use of the scientific method.
I guess the flooding method is the one manufacturers want you to use in order to go through more of their stuff.
Maybe or maybe they’re still of the mindset that the more oil we can get into the pours the better our wood will be sealed. But maybe it is about driving sales. They don’t tell you to flood with urethanes or something like that, even TruOil doesn’t tell you to flood it.
Doubt it. It's $40 for the small "Bumblechute" can, just greed.
@@cMurder2osix they are changing their packaging to reflect the method suggested in the video. It isn't about that.
@@cMurder2osixNot worth it. Straight Tung oil or just buy both and combine them
Thank you for being such a good teacher! I feel a lot more confident about oil finishes.
Sweet! I’ve been waiting for this video as I’ve got some Bumblechutes to try out and wanted to put it on most effectively. Thanks for all the work in putting it together.
Thank you! Great video and perfect timing as I’m getting ready to finish a bar cabinet I have been working on for some time!
Thanks for explaining this. Finishing is one area in woodworking that I really struggle with not knowing exactly what to do and this helps!
Thanks for the straight forward attention to the little details. This is why I watch your videos. Well, your sense of humor helps too!
Great explanation as always Marc! I love it when you provide examples and side-by-side comparisons to drive home your point instead of "Just take my word for it!"
This is a Bob Flexner level explanation in a much more exciting format. Thanks Marc!
Thanks for the great advice. Your experience with these finishes gives me a lot of trust in using your advice.
220-221, whatever it takes -- I say this all the time and no one ever gets it. You gave me a good laugh today!
That’s one of my favorite quotes ever, but yeah, no one ever gets it 🤷🏽♂️
There is absolutely no doubt that your videos are the gold standard for how CZcams videos should be done. Been watching you for years and am never disappointed. Oh, and keep adding the outtakes, love em.
I really learned here a lot. I will take care to spread thin layers, so great, thanks a lot for your work.
Right on! I will be putting finish on my cutting boards next weekend and this came out right on time.
Fantastic video!! I’ve always wrestled with this exact issue of going against the recommended application method. Thanks for the science Spagz!
I am making my first ever cutting boards and I am very glad that I came across your video prior to finishing my boards. I would have definitely flooded them. Thanks for the great content.
This is such valuable content. I really appreciate your scientific approach to woodworking. Shows that you can’t always blindly trust manufacturers or conventional wisdom!
Fantastic explanation and helpful to show some simple tests to reinforce your personal opinion/experience. I've been struggling with the Flood it method recently, so I'm really excited to try this out on my next project.
Excellent instruction, Marc. Time for me to change how I have been applying my oil finishes.
Great to see such a tactile finish rather than plastic epoxy 😊
It was a long video but it was well worth the watch and it’s opened my eyes to how I apply a finish to a build. Great review
Thank you for the clear and concise explanations. I happen to use the apply thin approach and have for years. Never had an issue with it.
Man, I'm sold. Definitely going with thin layers for tung oil from now on.
I’m only about 10 minutes in but already I’ve learned some stuff / realized the reason behind some things I know but didn’t understand. Finishing is my Achilles heel for sure and I love that you don’t just expect us to take your word for it, you back it up with evidence and testing.
Great video. I've only just started getting into tung oil finishing this last year and have had varied success as I'm learning. I'm definitely going to try going with thinner coats for my next project!
Thanks for this video. I have been doing woodworking for nearly 1/2 century and have always liked oil finishes. You realized the advantages of thin coats versus flooding in way less time than it took me. Haha. Thanks for validating my own findings. I like a couple thin coats of tung oil/mineral spirits, allow a week to cure, then do Briwax applied with 0000 steel wool and buffed to a nice flat sheen.
Thank you for the experiments, Marc. I have been moving away from the flooding method as a result of my own experience so it is great to see my thoughts confirmed. I also question the recommended drying times. I recently made a grave marker in European Oak and ended up leaving it for 48 hours between coats even though the initial coats were 50/50 Tung oil and thinners. I wiped off the excess after initial application and then re wiped the surface after 24 hours as it still seemed a little wet in places. The end result is definitely worth the effort.
Finally, someone who questions the flood coat! :D Been a bugbear of mine for years
Great video. The manufacturers of most pure tung oil say to flood and leave like you said. Your method is spot on! The flood and leave takes a loooong time to cure.
Thank you for making this video. I have probably seen around 30 to 40 other videos like this trying to learn as much as I can, but the simple approach that you discussed, and the explanation of the oil going into the pores, is worth more than all of the knowledge I gained from all the other videos combined. Thanks a bunch!
Same is here, I’m not doing a cutting board, I was looking something like that for my axe handle, for axe handles is different i will want my axe handle absorbed as much oil as possible, for the outdoor weather, I think I will soaking and submerge my new axe in linseeds oil overnight so the oil will go into all the pores then I can wax the handle
I have noticed after flooding some oil on the surface 4 days afterwards. I couldn’t understand this since I buffed it each day. Now I understand some oil was actually coming back out of the wood each day. Thanks Marc! I’ll try your method next time. 👊
Thanks for this discussion, Marc! I feel this video compliments a similar video by Stumpy Nubs very well. In fact, both your video and his video can be supplemental to each other.
I like how you showed physical tests. I was amazed by the endgrain cutting boards. I always knew they were more porous, but didn't know they were that porous. Your video has definitely added a whole heap of value to the community (as usual).
Marc, excellent video. And quite timely as I was just heading out to put finish on an end grain cutting board! Thanks!!
I moved away from the soak or flood method a while back, just from seeing how the board was curing. Part of that was my discovery of mineral oil never curing. I moved to Mahoney's Walnut Oil and I just wipe it on now. Good video!
I got very good results following Tried and True's instructions (thin coats) on a Christmas related project this last Christmas season.
Thanks for making this video! I've been building my first electric guitar and i settled on polymerized tung oil to finish the body. I've been planning on doing the flooding method since that's what everyone recommends (including the instructions from Sutherland Welles) but you've definitely convinced me that the "applied sparingly" method is superior.
When I use non-curing oils like mineral oil, flooding makes some sense. For curing oils, I think you’ve convinced me to try thin coats.
I had always used Salad Bowl Finish from GF for cuttingboards until I made one for a cousin. My can was too old so I had to use pure tung oil. I flooded it on like the directions said, then wiped it off. A year later, it was still leaching oil out. Finally it stopped and I tried this light method. MUCH better! Been woodworking for 12 years, and still learning new things. Thanks Marc!
great video marc i think it is a fuzzy area that we can all gain something from a bit more clarity. a video on your interpretation of how to apply finishes based on the label instructions could be interesting. asking local woodworkers is totally worth it. my local lumber yard and rockler usually have great advice giving employees.
I'm a flooder, hadn't ever thought of myself that way till now! I'd rather flood than to skimp but next time I'm gonna try finding a good in between. Interesting look at finishing , good job!
Ok, been having these issues and been working on being patient, applying thinner coats with much better results. Thanks for the peace of mind. 👍
Thanks for all that info and demonstrations. Great job really showing what you were talking about. Oh and awesome shirt also!!
Dude you are my hero for making this.
Great info, Marc~! Danish Oil (by Watco) has become one of my favorite finishes. Their instructions also say to generously apply the finish, let sit, and wipe off the excess with a clean rag (as you probably already know). I'll definitely try the sparingly applied amount approach on my next project to see how that comes out. Thanks much~!
I was scrolling the comments to see if anyone brought up Danish Oil, because I use it so frequently. I’m wondering whether the varnish component affects the way it is absorbed. Have you had an opportunity to try out the “wipe and wait” approach yet?
Thanks for all the info, Marc! Great testing! 😃
I guess the flooding method would work better for mineral oil. After all, it never cures.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very well thought out and presented information. Thank you. I don't have any wood working experience since my highschool days. I'm preparing for retirement now and would like to return to woodworking in my free time. I recently learned about Tung oil and found the information you presented to be very useful.
Great advice, and thanks for not using alarming titles. I usually ignore "you're doing it wrong" tutorials.
Nicely done Mark. I have been preaching the thin coat method for a while now. I like that you did the tests. Next up, sun curing 😀. It is the next game changer in your Tung method.
Yes, the "drying" oils need oxygen and UV to polymerize. The Italian master violin guys used the sunlight 300 years ago...
People now use UV cabinets, but anyone thinking of it should remind themselves that they can damage their eyes, and get skin cancer, and when you close up the cabinet to prevent that it can get really hot inside, and so you ventilate it and then dust gets on your slow-drying finish...
Thanks for the great information! Definitely will help in the future.
Perfect Timing! I just put on a flood coat of Walrus Tung Oil. Then I sat down to watch your video…
I went back out, wiped off the excess, and then rubbed the remaining oil into the surface.
I’m so glad I came to this video. One of my biggest pet peeves with CZcams “how to’s” is when the instructor is adamant that their way is the only way. Refreshing to hear someone admit and even ask for suggestions for what worked from viewers.
(Got a pup and needed so much advice. So many trainers say their way is the ONLY way. Usually “their way” involved a product so ultimately if you train your puppy “their way” you would have to buy that product they were affiliated with. Luckily, I also found several who offered plenty of training ideas, admitting that not all dogs respond the same)
I was taught the "flooding" method but, was also told, to angle the piece over an empty container and use a plastic scraper to push off the excess into the container, then wipe down. Also was taught to let "dry "24hrs to 48hrs" to dry between coats. To me, the biggest key to application also should include the temperature and humidity in which the application is being done. I'll be doing thin coats from now on. I've always used Tung Oil and Lindseed Oil, they've always been my tried and true finishes. Thanks for this info. Cheers :)
Excellent video. The flood method is very satisfying (more is more and more is better) but I am certain the light application is just as effective. Also, Nice looking end grain board. You should do a video about how to make that board.
Great video, Marc! It's an area where I feel like a huge noob still!
"We could have a whole 'nother video, just on that stuff." Yes, please! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
Oh lord thank you so much. I'm currently building my 7th and 8th cutting boards, first two were treated with mineral oil, the rest were done with Tung Oil but using the flooding method. I did let them cure for months so in the end once I started using them they hold up pretty well but I need to deliver them sooner than that.
Definitely will try applying sparingly on these! Thanks.
Love seeing science Marc videos!!
Fantastic video, thank you! When it comes to finishes, I still struggle to be able to create the exact color I want when I try to apply color. I'm happy with the results I get with my finishes mostly, but color is a problem. Thanks again.
Thank you!
I'm a beginner wood worker, and I've been watching all sorts of you tube videos trying to get the best results I can. I've been making my own Paste Waxes, and flooding my finished projects with expensive oils, and throwing maybe 25 - 35% of that expensive oil in the bin. I have recently used this thin spreading method and I've had really great! results.
A fine video. The sparingly applied method works for me.
Hey Marc. Always love the content. Listening to you the one thing I disagree with is you can never fully saturate an end grain board to the point it will be protected from liquid soaking in. If the board was thin enough you could probably do it as the "straws" will fill up, cure over months, and be semi protected. But thicker wood will have the substance, oil in this case, seep all the way through leaving the top not fully protected. A long grain board will be protected better as the straws are horizontal, not vertical. This is why I opt for a mix of oil and wax to treat my boards so the top layer is closed. Ad always, you make everyone think and I believe that makes us all better. Thanks buddy
I bought an 1860's dental cabinet that was finished with oil (order details were still *in* the cabinet) and I have never experienced a wooden object that had water just bead up and swipe away like this thing. Definately converted me to oil finishing. It's amazing.
Do you know what oil was used on it?
If it was 1860s are you sure it wasn't shellac-ed?
@@vikramkrishnan6414 yes, because the custom order slip was inside the cabinet, with what finishes were done and how much it cost.
Great video , as always , very informative ! There were several mentions of applicators /cloth or ? Going into the garbage . It is worth mentioning that spontaneous combustion is a very real issue when solvents/ oil / cleaner rags and applicators are not disposed of properly. They all should be stored in an airtight non combustible container and disposed of according to your local bylaws. I ran an automotive shop for 40 years and experienced several "rag bin" fires that luckily were snuffed out by the safety lead melting and closing the lid .
I finished a Lake Erie Moxon vise with Tried and True Danish Oil (not the original with bees wax nor the varnish). Burnished with steel wool before, between, etc. Very thin coats. I was surprised how much the curly grain in the maple gave back over time. I could re-wipe it down twice a day for a week before it stopped returning finish. To cure it took about a month, however the final results are stunning. I like the fact that their finishes are all natural, but time cannot be a concern when curing. Thanks for the vid!
I really appreciate this video... I hadn't heard of the "rub sparingly" method before and was ready to give up on tung oil entirely because it just takes too long because I wait until I can't smell it to apply another coat and the smell lasts for weeks sometimes.
I love your video. Good information. I was going to ask if I really needed to use citrus solvent for the Tung oil, and you answered my question without me having to ask. This are the kind of video I like. Thank you so very much.
Thank you for not naming it "what you've been doing wrong this whole time!"
Great video.
Thank you for the video. I just started redoing my floors and I used tung because I like that it's natural (pure, anyway). I thought the flooding method didn't seem quite right and went with something similar to your video. Thin coat in the room and then wipe off excess but I think I'll do it in slower smaller sections and apply light and wipe off immediately. I appreciate your video and advice!
Great job Marc, always have loved your videos. With your water test I would have loved to see a end grain cutting board that has been used for a few months, like 3 months. Just to see what would happen. Very curious.
Well done! Thanks for the in depth video.
This is exactly where I went wrong after your previous video about finishing. I followed the tung oil manufacturer’s directions for flood coats and left plenty of time for curing only to come back to white patches of cured oil. Was about to give up on tung oil/citrus oil mix but will try the thin coat method. Thanks Marc!
If you get the white spots or discolored film, how do you go about fixing it? Not that I would do anything like that. I'm just asking for a friend.
Same here. I actually have a friend who did multiple boards using the manufacturers instructions, now he has white speckled boards… Would also love to know if it’s salvageable. Asking to help my friend of course.
@sebasss01 I took all of "my friends'" boards and gave them a light sanding with 320 grit and rubbed in a very thin amount of oil/solvent and they seem to be fine now.
@@sethowens ah, thanks I’ll tell my friend to give that a try then.
Excellent video and yes, thank you for not using a click-bait title!
Good information. I've used Tung Oil for years and several of my early projects became finishing disasters because I used the flooding method followed by a wax finish. I wiped the excess off and gave the oil several days to cure and it felt dry so I applied the wax. About a week later the wax starting sloughing off and the whole thing looked like it had the mange. I was able to save the projects by giving them about a month to really cure, a light sanding and reapplying the wax.
When I apply much more sparingly, I don't have the issues. I still wait at LEAST a day between coats and about a week between the final coat and waxing.
I used Danish oil on my bench for years. Easy to apply and easy to repair. My main finishes are Shellac and oil for smaller projects. If it's larger I spray GF High Performance.
Thanks Marc. My finishing game is weak and usually involves me putting on a few coats of poly because that is what I know. I will definitely gives this a shot next time.
Excellent video. Great information and educational too. Learned a lot.
Thanks Melanie!
Flooding is fine if it's polymerized from a heat treatment process or if it has metal driers in it. If it's pure, thin coats makes a lot more sense. Another great video Marc. Accurate, unbiased, and informative
Great vid, very thorough. I know it’s been done to death, but would love to see your take on the latest craze of hard wax oils. E.g. Rubio, Osmo, Odies’s, Nano ceramics. Including amount of time to apply, dry, cure; level of gloss, durability and repair.
This whole ceramics thing is legit. And it's simple, hence why black forest did it, and Cam was pushing it then all of a sudden had his own brand lol. I'm 99% sure you can just use a general car wax ceramic coat.
I like these guys, but it's too product heavy it makes me cringe.
"This is a pencil, I didn't invent it or anything, you can buy this one from the links in description"
I've stopped watching him for now because it makes me cringe how he says I didn't invent it for every single cool technique thats been around for 100 years, and how every single time he uses a product he makes sure he gets a sponsorship before he posts the video.
It's cringe. I grt it, but it's taking the craft out of it for me and becoming one long commercial
Marc mentioned recently on a wood talk how these hard wax oils with additional protection on them (ceramic coating) are taking away the entire purpose of the HWO’s in the first place which is ease of application and less steps than a traditional polyurethane. It really is a great point. I mean they don’t offer enough protection in the first place.
@Sam Wanamaker Agreed. The advantage of HWO is ease of application, and done properly, it's pretty damn tough. Even so, one great advantage is the ability to spot-repair if the surface takes damage. The ceramic adds considerable time and cost to the finishing process. If you're going to top-coat, I'm not sure why you wouldn't just use a thin film-coat finish like poly, shellac or lacquer; those are all considerably cheaper and faster
Excellent video and very useful information
Thank you
Great episode, Marc, answered all my questions.
Rags rock.
Finish expert and author Michael Dresdner said ANY finish can be applied/wiped on with rags. Since hearing him say that over 20 years ago probably, I use rags for almost everything including paint! When I'm done with paint it goes in the garbage, but I use old, dried oil finish rags and ones with polyurethane and other clear finishes to help start the wood stove! :-)
I love it, this is like an episode of Mythbusters!
Thank God, finally someone exhibiting great WISDOM & dismissing the myth of flooding. As for a companies labeling, it's just like any other industry, some are just ignorant that just follow the rest of the sheep & I have no doubt some are driven by sales...If the events we are currently witnessing don't make one question man's motavation, then nothing will. Superb video my friend!
I’m trying this approach on some black walnut doors I’m finishing now, having taken the flooding approach with three previous pairs of black walnut doors. First coat is on and looks good. Overall, the result from the first coat is lighter, and the grain doesn’t pop as much as the flooding technique, but it uses a lot less oil and is a lot less messy and smelly.
The oil seeping out with the heat gun was cool to see.
hello - Happy Monday !!
Love how I see this video right after I post a reel on IG of me flooding a board 😂. Great advice as always, definately gonna try this way.
If you have a system that works, no worries. But give this method a shot and report back.
@@woodwhisperer Definately will! How do you like the bumblechutes? I've been seeing them show up more and more lately.
@@gandmdesignco I like them a lot. You can make something comparable yourself of course, but it's nice having it pre-made....and you get to support a small business.
I love the Tried and True instructions: if you've used any, you've used enough. They recommend a tiny amount rubbed in vigorously.
I use that mentality for all natural oil finishes. I use about a dime sized dab per square foot and I apply it with a white pad on a DA polisher. I finished a bookcase by hand once and my arm was tired! The polisher was the perfect solution.
What is the “white pad” you are referring to? Thx
@@tundrawhisperer4821 3M white for the first coat or 2, then I switch to a terry sock.
@@CheveeDodd is that a wool, microfiber, or foam pad? Thx
@@tundrawhisperer4821 the white scratch pads. I sand to 180 and use the scratch pad as the "final sanding." If you prefer to sand to a higher grit (220-400), you could use any of those pad applicators for all the coats.
@@CheveeDodd oh…like a scotchbrite type pad, I see now. Thx
Great post very informative. Thanks!
Great tests and info! Thanks!
Dude, I can’t stop staring at your shirt! That thing is way cool!
Great topic, done well. Thanks
Thanks for the Mr. Mom clip. I love that movie. 😂
Awesome video. I admit...I thought more was better. Thanks!
Great advice as always!
I totally agree with you. Especially for all the directions for consumer marketed finishes you really should be skeptical about the directions for application and talk to one’s who have been using that finish or similar finishes for years in the real world.
For linseed oils I can say that thin coats are definitely the way to go and wait as long as possible between coats if you are concerned about the fastest dry and cure times.
Great information packed in here.