IAC Valve Testing and Cleaning
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- čas přidán 8. 01. 2020
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*PLEASE READ THIS VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we show you how to test and clean the IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve on your Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4 Liter V6 engine. As a bonus, we show you how to clean the throttle body as well. The 3.4 Liter V6 motor from Toyota came with different throttle bodies. For example, 1996-2000 4runners came with the throttle body shown in this video. 2001-2002 4runners came with a different throttle body with a "built-in" air bypass. The same goes for 1st Gen Tacomas. 1995-2002 Tacomas will have the style throttle body shown in this video and the 2003-2004 models will have the newer throttle body design. For 1st Gen Tundras with the 3.4 Liter V6 engine, we don't know if they are the same with two different throttle bodies based on the model year they were made. But, a quick look at your throttle body on your engine will let you know which one you have. A dead give-away that you have the newer model throttle body is if you only have one cable running to it. You won't have a cruise control and transmission kick down cable like the one in the video.
** I wanted to understand better how the newer throttle bodies worked so I started a T4R.org thread and asked the forum members for some help. Instead of trying to paraphrase all the information that was shared, I thought it would be better to just provide a link to the thread so people can read through all the information themselves. Here's the linK: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge... My screen name is "MTBTIM" on T4R.org.
*PARTS*
*IAC Valve Gasket #22215-62180
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*Throttle Body Gasket #22271-62040
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*Throttle Body Cleaner
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*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
*Wits End Diagnostic Port Jumper Wire for OBD equipped vehicles
absolute-wits-end.com/diagnost...
*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock
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*OBDII reader that works with Android devices (So you can use the Torque Pro Phone App) amzn.to/2BeQUsM
*OBDII Reader Shut-Off Switch - (It allows you to turn off the power to your reader so you don't have to pull it out every time. The reader constantly draws a small amount of power and could drain your battery if your truck sits for a long time.)
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*Infrared Thermometer - (to detect temperature of IAC for ohms resistance test)
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*20 Piece Screwdriver Set
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*90 Degree Needle Nose Piers - (to compress constant tension hose clamps on the coolant lines to the IAC) amzn.to/2VYUro8
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (used both of these ratchets for this job. Super functional ratchets that will make you're wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/4” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
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*Multimeter - (The one I bought via Amazon isn't available anymore but this one looks pretty good) amzn.to/2NcuGwr
*Silicone Plug Kit
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*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set - (used to remove cables from throttle body)
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*Small Pick Tool Set
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*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet - ( used to speed up removal of throttle body nuts and bolts)
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) amzn.to/2m89y0D
*Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) amzn.to/2ky8Qt8
*Yost Bench Vice - (this is the bench vice I own. Yost makes nice bench vices.)
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*Yost 6” Soft Vice Jaw Caps - (soft jaws to protect what you're clamping in the vice)
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*JIS Screwdriver - (used to remove and tighten IAC screws)
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*Battery Jumper - (To provide 12 volt power to test the IAC function)
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*Multimeter Test Lead Kit - (To apply power to IAC)
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
*Be sure to read this comment and also read the video description for helpful information.*
** Here's some additional information about the IAC valve that a helpful member put together on T4R.org. His name is Leon and he owns the Spiker Engineering company that makes products for Toyota SUVs and Trucks like the hood struts. Leon discovered after cleaning his IAC, his idle would climb as the engine temp increased rather than drop like it should. After dissecting the IAC to better understand how the mechanism works, he finally discovered the culprit. Some of the carbon he was cleaning off the IAC trap door got pushed rather than cleaned off the door, and where it got pushed and dried hindered the door from fully closing.
The following is what Leon reported: *"So what happened was that my q-tip cleaning dissolved the carbon, but the carbon then reconstituted itself on a different portion of the barrel, and once it dried, it prevented the barrel from closing. Without taking the IAC apart, I couldn't rotate the barrel far enough to notice this, but the actuator didn't have enough torque to overcome the resistance."* So, the take-away is do a thorough cleaning of the IAC if you're going to do it. Because of Leon's experience, his take-away is to not mess with the IAC unless you're having an issue with it. My opinion is I still think cleaning the IAC is a good preventative maintenance thing to do, because even though Leon had a bad result after cleaning it which inspired him to purchase a new one, not cleaning it could allow enough carbon to eventually cause the IAC trap door to become gummed up and not open and close properly.
Here's a link to the thread: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/310151-solved-high-idle-increases-coolant-temp-iac-3.html
Last question can I vacuum leak cause a rich condition I did a smoke test and found my oil cap closed but smoke was coming out so I've flip the gasket seal and so far seemed to be OK I now have p1093 pending the no light on
@@isrealperez9069 If unmetered air is getting into the engine via a vacuum leak, I would then think you'd experience a "Too Lean" condition.
Timmy. Why do you think my 99 4Runner 3.4 mostly when it’s bitter cold (15f) and only every once in a great while when it isn’t so cold (50f) will sputter and sometimes stall until it warms up a bit?
@@4bangerlove Maybe the IAC valve is sticking a bit not giving the engine the air it needs. Both my 98 and 00 do this too and when I give it some throttle response, it corrects itself.
@L Smith Open the video description by clicking on "Show More". We provide the part number there.
Thanks for another great video! I bought my '98 Limited 22 years ago and happened across your channel about a year and a half ago. 138,000 km and everything was still stock except for the BF Goodrich AT's. Was planning on selling the 4Runner rather than buy new tires, fix the sagging rear end and weak rear hatch struts... but your channel changed everything. Many mods and upgrades have been made since then and I added the supercharger (your video was the push I needed) with URD 7th injector 9 months ago to great affect. A week after it was installed however I had a "episode" when after being parked in the hot sun for 2 hours, the engine had a hard time starting. Never had a problem starting before ever! After about 15 minutes it finally was running but sputtering badly. I would get 50 yards down the road and the engine would die. This continued for two blocks before it wouldn't start anymore. Towed it home and left in the garage for 36 hours. In the cool confines of the garage, it started first crank like normal. Noticed a pile of black soot below the tailpipe. No problems last fall, winter and spring until last week... first hot day this COVID season and after 20 minutes at the lumber store sitting in the sun, the engine just couldn't catch. Cranked fine but no ignition. Left it in the parking lot and came back 24 hours later... another hot day...still no start. Towed it home left it outside another 24 hours and wouldn't start in the sun. 12 hours later at 7:00AM ( a cool morning), started up first crank like nothing was wrong. OBD2 reader using torquepro app (wonder where I got that idea) showed no codes now, pending, or in storage. Checked T4R.ORG and most common problem identified for my symptoms was ... IAC! Other possibilities are fuel pump, fuel filter (will install Wallbro pump that came with the URD injector when my gas tank is on low), fuel pressure regulator, ECU fuse, bad MAF, battery ground and starter relay. Based on your excellent explanations, I now see that the likely problem is the IAC and its associates namely... 1) the throttle position sensor (TPS), 2) coolant temperature (sensor not the STOTT thermostat I installed for the supercharger) 3) Air Conditioning(AC switch).
I will proceed with testing and a "gentle" cleaning of the IAC. If this does not fix the problem will proceed to the TPS. I have a PDF of the 1996 - 2002 Factory Service Manual which I downloaded from the web but it did not have the IAC pages (SF-37) but thanks to this video all the steps to troubleshoot the IAC are documented. The TPS is page 960 (SF-31).The steps to troubleshoot the coolant temperature sensor and AC switch however, don't seem to exist in my manual. If anyone knows where to find, would be a great help. Will update on my progress.
Hey Tim, great to hear our channel inspired you to keep your 3rd Gen. Sounds like you're on the right track to diagnosing and figuring out your warm start issue. I personally like having the physical factory service manual books. If you do a search on Ebay for your year, you will most likely find the the 2 volume set for sale for a fair price. It seems the going rate is somewhere around $150. You obviously like to wrench so the books are well worth the investment. Let us know how the diagnosing goes for you. By the way, Sean will be stoked to see you are using his TEQ Tim logo. He designed that.
Tim: thanks for another great video! My ‘97 was idling at 1500 rpm warm and would barely idle at startup when cold. This after sitting for several weeks while I fixed front end wreck damage. Your video helped immensely because you provided testing procedures to verify if the valve is good. So useful since these valves aren’t cheap and buying a new one may not be necessary. I would add that it’s not a good idea to try and reuse the old IAC gasket. Ask me how I know! Anyway, thanks again for taking the time!
You're welcome Frank. Great to hear you found our video helpful. Yes, OEM IAC valves are very expensive so you want to be sure it's bad before dropping the coin on one. Thanks for the comment and Happy Wrenching!
I lost count of how many of your videos have helped me with my 4Runner, Tacoma, etc. etc. You're the man, Tim.
Hey Clayton, great to hear our videos have been helping you out. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching Bro!
Thank you for sharing this very detailed video. I followed all the steps to diagnose my problem and my truck runs like new now. You just saved me 260 bucks! Thank you sir for taking the time to educate us.
You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Tim, thank you again for your great videos, I've had a rough idle condition on my 4Runner for almost two months now and I changed out the IAC valve yesterday and vehicle runs great!!
That's great to hear and you're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman my mechanic did an air intake induction cleaning with BG mist with two cans of spray and the rough idle was gone. The idle rpm is steady at 750 instead of running below 650. Do I still need to replace the IAC valve?
@@francistham9928 If it's running good, it's running good. You don't need to replace it.
Once again, another great video. Very thorough and knowledge filled.
One thing I've always done when replacing the metal throttle body gasket, is to Dremel out the flat spot on the front so it's a full circle. I believe that this is how the TRD throttle body gaskets come when you have a supercharger.
Thanks. We're glad you like the video.
You are correct that the TRD supercharger throttle body gasket has a full circle. The Toyota engineers had to have a reason for blocking part of the air flow to the upper plenum but it's sounding like the reason wasn't as important as they thought it was since you're running it like you have a supercharger on your engine and haven't experienced any ill effects.
I am blown away with your video technique and knowledge on this motor. Hard to find smart people like you that can do both jobs with 10 stars. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Once again. Tim to the rescue. Cleaned my iac and my idle went from 1450 ish. Dow to 850ish. Thanks again Tim!!
Cool, I'm glad our video helped you get your idle issue resolved.
A great show of professional repair! Thank you!
Thanks for the nice compliment. You're very welcome!
A very detailed repair video. Great job, well done! Liked very much. Understand from the bottom to the top.
Thanks! We're glad you liked it.
...another outstanding video Tim....really been needing to do this on my 2000 4Runner to correct a rough and erratic rpm idle...
now I have the confidence to give it a try...thanks again for posting...and keep 'em coming...
Thanks Ken. I hope it fixes your idle issue.
How the hell do you only have 60k subs? This channel is THE definitive Toyota repair source on the web.
We appreciate the kind words. I think we should have attracted more subscribers too based off the quality of our content but that's not the case. Plenty of people use our videos, but only a small percentage subscribes. Anyway, thanks for taking to time to comment.
As always, best quality videos with great info and details. Thank you sir.
Thanks for the nice compliment and you're very welcome!
Thanks Timmy, i learn alot from this video regarding the IAC valve. 👍👍👍
You're welcome Nicky. Good to hear you learned a lot from our video.
Best video tutorials thus far.
Excellent format for learning,. Methodically sweet!
Thanks Dave. We appreciate the compliment.
If you want to save thousands and have intimate knowledge of your vehicle like you should this IS the place to be. Thanks big time man....subscribed!
Thanks Gerald. We appreciate the plug for our channel. You're welcome Big Time! Happy Wrenching!
Thank you! I seriously appreciate everything!!!! The explanation was AMAZING!!!! Thank you for taking the time to make this video so that us unknowledgeable auto DIYers can save money lol
You're very welcome. Using the word "Amazing" is a nice compliment to read and we appreciate it very much. Just like you thanked us for taking the time to make this video, we thank you for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
This is a very detailed video on the IAC brother Tim!! Nice work, keep 4Running!
Thanks Brother Jake. Glad you like it.
Extremely nice work with very attention to detail. You're my kinda guy. Thanks.
Thanks for the compliment Mohammad. We appreciate it. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
I always learn something from Timmy. I had never owned a 4R and mine had a LOT of deferred maintenance and problems. I used the FSM and Tim's videos and have fixed all of the problems without any mistakes. If you do exactly what he says you will be successful.
Thanks for the kind comment about our channel. We appreciate it!
Just found your channel. Where have you been all my life? :) Great content. Thanks.
Also, "Wits' End" is the perfect name for a tool company.
Well, you found us and that's what's important. Glad you like our channel. Welcome to our show and Happy Wrenching!
Outstanding tutorial. Thank you.
Thanks Allen. You're very welcome.
I was one of those whom sprayed and sprayed! Yes, some Q-tip use. Agree, don’t spray onto connector IAC. That door area was gooked up 180,000 mile 2001, when I cleaned, 3.4 Tacoma! Did this May of 2019. It’s 2020, June, now. Idle, cold start, etc. excellent!
Timmy, you are the gift to us Toyota fans! Going for 300,000 plus with my 2001 Tacoma. At, 189,000.
Glad the cleaning of you IAC worked out for you and thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it!
I used to be a certified Toyota technician back in the late 90's
Thank you for sharing good information!!
Well thanks for stopping by our channel. If you have any feedback on any of the videos please let us know in the comments section.
Tim have a doubt regarding to spraying cleaner inside the port that open and close, as a toyota tec as you introduced yourself please clarify this
You are the best my friends , thank you 👍
You're very welcome.
Timmy the tool an is a freaking mind reader!!! I need this so bad right now
I hope it helps you out. Happy Wrenching!
Same here, but i put a new oem iac about 6 months ago and check engine p0505 came back up and dont have an air leak anywhere. Im gonna check that air hose that goes underneath iac
I've done this, but I believe I need to do it again. I have performed everything under the sun to fix a recurring P0120 problem. I'm looking to re-look at the IAC again and cleaning the TB
@@BKTX maybe cleaning or replacing the mass airflow sensor
@@JJ-rb3ss JC, yup just had enough time last weekend to do that too. I'm going to do everything over again. I skipped a few steps that TTT did here on the IAC, but did the open/close testing, which is the most important test.
Outstanding video presentation. Thank you Mr. Timmy.
Thanks Joel. We appreciate the compliment. You're very welcome Mr. Joel.
Excellent video. Your attention to detail was superb. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Thank you for the nice compliment. We really appreciate it and you're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!
great job !!!! When you order the IAC valve gasket, you may want to also order a new set of screws. It is almost guaranteed the old ones will strip while removing them. The screws were stripped even though I used a JIS (Japan Industry Standard) screwdriver.
You may purchase bolts instead from Auto Zone, Lowes, or other hardware stores. The size is M5-0.8 x 16 mm
I've removed IAC valves off both of my 3rd Gen 4runners now. By clamping the throttle body in a bench vice, using a JIS screwdriver and applying sufficient downward pressure on the screws, I came nowhere close to stripping one of the heads of the screws. The key is having a screwdriver that fits the screw head well and using ample downward pressure before trying to break them free. That's at least been my experience. But, good for people to know the size screws in case they do strip one or more of their screws.
Great vid again Tim! You are absolutely right about just using a q-tip with cleaner on it to clean the valve but for the wrong reason. The coils almost never go bad on these as they are sealed in plastic so you can't short them out. However, there are two unsealed mini ball bearings on either side of the valve "gates" and when you wash the IAC out with cleaner, you wash out all the grease in those two ball bearings. Eventually the moisture gets to them and they seize up. This also happens over time on its own as the grease dries up. My other comment is that the green coil assembly you took off is "clocked" relative to the valve's body. It has up to 5deg of adjustment either way and you have to mark where it was before you take it apart otherwise your rpms are going to be slightly off. I don't recommend trying to service these if you are having IAC caused idle issues because the crappy bearings they put in these are usually shot and very difficult to replace as it takes a special puller and careful documentation to get these valves disassembled and reassembled.
Thanks for sharing all this information Jacob. It's good to know about the lubrication of the ball bearings for the valve door. I did spray a bunch of cleaner in there so I guess time will tell if my valve door seizes up.
I am a little confused with your statement about the clocking of the coil assembly. From what I could see, there was no adjustment to this. The coil assembly slides on and you have to have the screw holes lined up. The slightest turn off center would mean the screw holes wouldn't line up. But, in any event, I got the coil assembly back on and my idle is acting normal. I sealed the screw heads with some Toyota FIPG. I'm guessing that sealant is to help prevent the screws from coming loose? That's the only thing that makes sense to me. Also, I noticed the coil assembly is magnetized so maybe another possibility is that sealant blocks the magnetization the screws will have?
If you take off the coil assembly and clean off all the fipg inside you will see that the screw holes in the coil are slotted, not circular to give some adjustment. If you don't clean it off inside the holes, it should line back up where it was as in your case. The fipg on top of the screws is the extra that squeezed out when they sealed the coils to the valve's body.
@@jacobs2309 Ah, I see. That makes sense. That's probably why I got it back in the same spot because I didn't mess with the sealant on the inside. Thanks for the information.
No problem. I made my own puller and completely disassembled this valve because it's 200+ from toyota now. The bearing on the small end that is the most exposed to oil vapor and moisture can be changed, but it's a real pita. Everything on these things is clocked in a precise position from the factory and needs to go back exactly the way it was. Don't recommend for the average diyer but you can save $200 by just cleaning it and replacing that $5 bearing.
@@jacobs2309 Wow, that would have made one hell of a DIY video. Too bad you didn't film it.
Your attention to detail and your step-by-step instructions were extremely helpful you explain things very well thank you especially for that new Jis screwdriver info I never knew about 👍🏼
You're very welcome Hector. Glad you found our video helpful.
Incredible detail...it's like a seminar
Glad you appreciate the detail. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Your legend mate thank you for the video i done mine yesterday and now I'm happy with my prado thank you so much from Sydney Australia you are a life saver 🙏❤
You're very welcome Kavei. Great to know our video helped out a Toyota Brother from Down Under.
Watching this and dreaming...Now back to my 3vze paperweight work. Detailed and straightforward gem tutorial!
Glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
Tim - Thank you sooo much for this channel. I just picked up a 1999 Tacoma and your channel is a wealth of knowledge. Good video, great commentary. Again, THANK YOU!!!!!!
You're very welcome Todd. Enjoy your Tacoma.
The way you explain every step is excellent. BEST video I've watched on this. Hope you do more. BTW-I did buy a few items you have listed.
Thanks for the kind words Tom and we appreciate you using our links! It allows us to make sure we can make more videos in the future!
You’re an excellent teacher.
Thank you very much for your video.
Thanks Leona. I really appreciate the compliment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Timmy! Recently rebuilt my 3.4 in a 96 T-100. While I was cleaning the throttle body/IAC I noticed the bypass tube had a fair amount of rtv silicone in the body cavity, almost intentionally placed, in the IAC bypass port. Surprised me when it popped out and made me curious as I was not having any idling issues to that point. I cleaned the throttle body due to excessive blow-by from many miles. The rebuild has been a success and I'm happy to refer to your videos for help.
It is interesting that the port was filled with RTV. It had to be intentional. Anyway, I'm glad our video helped you out. You're very welcome.
Very thorough procedures. Thank you for the this vital video.
You’re welcome. Hope you were successful with your wrenching endeavours!
I today removed and replace my throttle body gasket.i cleaned the throttle body for the first time,not good.i am glad with your help I tackled this job alone.i do feel great for DIY,thanks Timmy
Good job!
Just wanted to thank you one more time! I replaced the IAC valve on my 2002 Tacoma SR5 PreRunner today following your video as I did the work. There were only a couple of minor differences between yours and mine. I still failed my smog test though because I didn't drive the vehicle long enough after the job, resulting in an OBII failure. I was told to drive it about 40 miles and then bring it back for a free re-test. Thanks again!
You're welcome again Chuck. Here's a tip for knowing if your rig is ready for a smog check. You can either buy a scan gauge tool that will let you know all your system monitors are reset and ready or you can get an OBD II reader that sends info to a phone app like Torque Pro. Then you won't have to guess if your vehicle is ready for a smog test. I use to use the Torque Pro phone app to monitor things but I switched to using a Scan Gauge. Here's a link for you: amzn.to/2QTlz6z
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks!!
@@chuckmacwilliam4168 You're welcome!
Great video with excellent description of operation! Thank you!
Appreciate the comment Lane!
I really enjoy the level of detail you include that a lot of the other repair videos gloss over.
I found that wire loom retainer like the one that you released in the beginning of the disassembly at 14:28 by squeezing with a pair of needle nose pliers can be released by using an 11mm socket to squeeze the pins of the retainer and it's less likely to mangle the plastic by squeezing too hard.
Thanks Steve. Good to hear you appreciate the detail we offer in our videos. I like your socket trick for those types of clips. I'm going to try that out. Happy Wrenching!
thank you for your comprehensive lecture about IAC/ISCV...
You're very welcome Harrison.
Awesome tutorial, Thank you for sharing.
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Excellent video, very detailed. You’re a skilled teacher.
Thanks Sam. We're glad you like the video and I appreciate the nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Subbed because you're so smart and very nice for teaching us all for free! 🙏🏽😊 I'll try this out ASAP!
Welcome to our channel Joshua. Good luck with the IAC testing and cleaning.
HI Timmy. Ran my eye over the throttle body after watching the video. Yet to progress to cleaning it but I checked the 3 cables while there and they all had excess slack esp. The throttle and transmission kick down ones. I adjusted them and wow what a difference. No throttle lag and transmission shifts are perfect. Gees I learn so much from your channel, thank you. Sic moustache BTW. Another happy Prado here in Australia.
Hey Andrew, that great the cable adjustments worked out well for you. This is something I learned from the Toyota forums around 4-5 years ago. When we're shooting videos, I try to remember associated things I can mention as we're doing the job like the cable adjustments and letting people know that guys have accidentally hooked up one of the coolant lines to the air assist line. Sometimes I wonder if people appreciate the extra blabbing I do when shooting a video or are they annoyed because they just want me to stop talking and get on with the next step in the job. Good to know my extra blabbing is appreciated.
It's great to read that you're learning a lot from our channel. The internet and more specifically CZcams is allowing us to reach anyone in the world with an internet connection with the videos we make. You're very welcome my Australian Mate! Glad you like the stache. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman I like the videos just the way they are. Not being a mechanic, I find fine points of detail can turn a job I do from being OK to frustrating real quick. You guys cover the points off so it makes life a lot easier. Plus the videos often tell a story, a sort of mini adventure because you speak about what you're doing as you go. The manual hub swaps you did with Jordan are great to watch for example. Anything with press work is really interesting I find. All the best to you.
@@andrewb2326 Thanks Andrew. That's good to hear. We figured most people would appreciate the detail we offer. I do know that there are experienced mechanics and DIYers that just want to see a video to get an idea of what is entailed to do the job and they'd rather see an abridged version. When Sean and I started this channel. we agreed we didn't want to leave anyone lost by not showing enough detail or skipping a crucial step.
One of the things you read about what makes videos appealing is a shorter length, like no longer than say 20 minutes because people have short attention spans. I can tell some Automotive Channel CZcamsrs follow this rule and never upload a really long video or they break it up into several videos. We have uploaded many videos that are an hour long and some over an hour. We have also broken up longer jobs into several parts, like our transmission replacement video, but all 3 parts are fairly long. My thinking is this, if people want help to do a job, they will sit through our video no matter how long it is and maybe watch it several times to make sure they got a good handle on what the job entails. I guess automotive videos do have entertainment appeal and people will watch just because they are interested in the subject matter and have no plans on doing the job, and maybe in that case, shorter videos seem more appealing.
I guess what I'm trying to say is we aren't scared to post long videos. What makes our channel much different than a high percentage of other automotive channels is the detail we offer. I think it's the main reason why people watch our videos and subscribe to our channel.
Anyway, I appreciate your comments Andrew. Happy Wrenching!
Very understandable explanation of the function on the IAC valve.
Thanks. Glad you found it informative.
Great tutorial! i dont even own a toyota (I have a Montero) but I enjoyed it to the end. Very thorough, great video shots and you obviously know your stuff. Thank you!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You're very welcome.
Thank you Timmy! This is awesome
You're very welcome.
Super thorough step-by-step procedure, and the basic mechanics of the job should translate well to my own (1997 Acura TL 3.2L) whip, which threw a P0505 code, and is behaving unruly at idle. Thanks guys. -Stevie
P/S "Good enough for government work." That cracked me up, as I have never heard that phrase uttered from others than myself. 😂
You've very welcome. Hope you can get your idle fixed Stevie.
I've been saying good enough for government work for almost 30 years. I've worked for local government for 29 years. One more year and I'm retiring.
Awesome detail, Thank You "Triple T"!!
You're very welcome.
Looks like I have a project to do for my 2003 Toyota Tacoma pre-runner V4 2.7 L! Thank you, Tim!
You're welcome!
Great video. I had high idle after replacing engine with jdm motor and i had done exactly as you said not to do
. I cleaned throttle body cleaner with iacv upside down before installing. All the junk went into iacv. Removed it and cleaned iacv and she purrs like a kitten!!
Thx Timmy
Thanks! I'm glad our video helped you out.
I need to do this on my rig as well, it's been stalling from time to time after idling low, most likely it's this. Awesome work as always Tim, thanks for the video.
Good luck with testing. Hopefully a good cleaning is all it needs. Glad you like the video and you're very welcome.
Tim, Thank you for all your videos. I have a 2000 4runner with 300k miles and really enjoy the truck and your videos. I recently replaced the timing belt, had all injectors cleaned and flow testing performed, replaced the fuel pressure regulator while it was apart along with a new IAC and throttle position sensor, plugs wires, gaskets, and coil packs. All Toyota parts since I have had issues using aftermarket parts not communicating right with the computer or gauges. I have an issue with long cranks though when the engine is warm or hot. It starts immediately when it is cold or right after running. The problem is when it sits for 30 minutes to a few hours. It seems like it is flooding. If I press down the gas pedal a little it seems like it pops off. The IAC tested fine using your video, but I decided to replace it anyway thinking just maybe this was the issue anyway and who knows with 300k miles wouldn't hurt. About a year ago, I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit as well because I was having the issue with the sending unit per the TSB. I'm really at a loss? What do you think might be worth replacing or checking? I don't think there is anything else I missed. Thanks again for your videos. Looking forward to your reply when you get the opportunity. Best regards, Mark
Hey Mark, glad you like our videos. Your problem sounds like a difficult one to figure out. You already addressed the things I would have thought as the culprit. I did a little research just now and one guy realized he had a bad MAF which caused the same symptoms you're experiencing, a hard start when warm. Maybe test and clean the MAF and see where that gets you. If it still is having a hard start after you verify it passes the ohms resistance test and you cleaned it, get the engine hot again, let it sit and then before you start it unplug the MAF. It is starts right up, but obviously gives you a CEL code for the MAF disconnected, I think that would be proof it was your problem.
Mark Cunnings. Did you ever figure out what your hard start issue was???
I have the exact problem in my sons 2002 4Runner. Replaced all injectors & fuel regulator, no help. Then new MAF & no help. Throwing lean code P0171 & now random misfire P0300. Appreciate any feedback. Happy New Year!
Sir, you have the best tools and diagrams in your country. I wish it was available in my country. good job and be happy 😊.
If you are working on an older Toyota, you can usually find the factory service books for your year and model for sale on Ebay. If you have a newer Toyota model or can't find the books for your older model, you can access all the information you need on the Toyota Tech Info website. You can buy a 2-day membership for $25 and download as much information as you want. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&goto=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2Fagent%2Fcustom-login-response%3Fstate%3Dms9aH4QHu4Ft6KCd-YPY7kh-jcQ&original_request_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2F
Great explanation of the iac valve!
Thank you!
Thanks and you're very welcome.
This is ,for me, a real helpful and clear video. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome!
Hello. Thanks for the informative video. I will try to clean the iac on my '00 runner.
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
Thanks! I don’t have the same car but I definitely found this information helpful.
You're welcome.
jimmy thanks you are great instructor. you made excellent video.
You're very welcome Reynaldo. Thanks for the compliment. It's actually Timmy though, not Jimmy. Jimmy is my older brother.
Good to see you again hero
I take it you're doing some IAC cleaning today. Good luck with the job.
A brilliant video for learning, you have a great way of breaking it down. Will try to fix my father's Toyota with these tips
Thank you for the compliment. Good luck with your dad's rig.
Very detailed and clear explanation. Thanks.
Thanks Tien, we appreciate you stopping by the comments!
Thanks mate very helpful for my 5VZ-FE Prado 90 series.
We appreciate your comment Stuart, btw where do you hail from? Australia?
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes that's right mate, Brisbane. Still plenty of 3.4 5VZ Prados and Hiluxes round here!
Great video & thks for the time and detail provided putting this together
Thanks John and you're very welcome.
Really enjoyed this video
Thankyou
You're very welcome. We're glad you enjoyed our video.
Did the exact same thing last weekend with my 98. I spent about an hour cleaning and cleaning. since it was already removed I really gave it a go. I kept the circuit/plug on top so the throttle body fluid didn't spill on it. She throttles at 750.
Good job Edward!
Nice to have that book for every car you have.
Yes, it is. If you don't have the book, you can buy a subscription to the Toyota Tech Info website and download any information you need.
outstanding stuff! thanks for the help!
You're very welcome!
I hit the subsribe as soon as I see how long your video. Very helpful! thanks from the other side of the world.
Thanks for subscribing and glad you found our video helpful. We are all about providing enough detail so anyone using our videos can be successful with performing the job. We gear our videos to the absolute beginner so nobody is left behind. Where do you live?
Great video mate 👌👌🙏🙏
Thanks!
Very detailed . Thank you for sharing 👍
Glad it was helpful!
i enjoy watching this. fairly easy to understand also+ i hope you have more videos. i appreciate.
We will be making videos for some time to come. Glad you appreciate what we're doing.
WOW! Tim you are incredible!
I've been watching ALL of the most popular CZcams Wrenchers for years for assists with my vehicles. I just bought a 1995 T100 from a relative in great condition but with the expected minor issues. That is what brought me here. You are THE BEST play by play mechanic on YT!
You truly take your time and show step by step how to complete a job including all of the tools used! Awesome!
Needless to say , you have a new subscriber here on the West coast of Florida and I can't wait to check out your other videos. Love that you have a 98 4-runner. That lines up well with my 95 T100.
One question: Do you know where I could pick up one of those service manuals for my rig?
Thanks and keep on wrenching!
Thanks Mike. You made my day with your nice compliment of our channel. You can usually find FSM manuals for sale on Ebay. Just do a search for your year make and model and I bet you come up with several options from Ebay sellers.
You are the best as far as explaining very good video you're taking your time I can understand you you are awesome keep up the good work
Thanks Steve for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. Glad you found the video informative. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for helping me out so much about to do it myself awesome video
You're welcome Charles. Good luck with the job.
Great vid. Thanks for your time.
Thanks Robert. You're very welcome.
The best explanation! Thanks
Thanks and you're very welcome.
What perfect timing.. 👍👍
Hope it helps you out. Happy Wrenching!
GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO, GREAT EXPRESSION. KUDOS AND KEEP IT UP. U GUYZ ARE GOOD.
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Good video and demonstration timmy
Thanks Antonio. We're glad you like it.
Thanks for the video, very informative for me as a student Technician
You're welcome Nathan. Good luck with your studies and your future career.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you
so much helpful information!!!!
Thanks Kevin. Glad you found the video helpful.
The best video on CZcams
Wow, that's a hell of a compliment. Thanks!
VERY thorough! Thanks!
Thanks Chuck! You're very welcome!
Very good fantastic teacher sir , one of a kind. Very detail 😀👍🏾
Thanks Enrique. I appreciate your nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Very clear instructions
Thanks
GREAT VIDEO. THANK YOU!!
Thanks Matt and you're very welcome!
Beautiful! Thank you
You're welcome Luis.
Thanks for the quick reply. Currently watching you vid. A+++++
You're welcome.
Yup smoked out the parking lot... idle is silk smooth, engine is more responsive... thank you. Definitely a to do periodically... learned a lot from ur vids... much appreciation... whish i could have a beer w u
Great to hear our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know. Happy Wrenching!
Update... 2 days later the intermittent high idle returned...
Went through the process, iac interior and flap definitely needed carbon buildup cleaning... followed the step by step process with lots of q-tips & spray... result- solid 750 rpms at idle. Thank you.
@@zorbakorba4180 You're welcome. Good job fixing your issue.
Great video
Helped me service a iacv on my 2005 Daihatsu sirion.
Thanks Michael. Glad our video helped you out.
Great video!
Thanks David Bowie.
I think I found my issue. Thanks Tim!
You're welcome Raymond!
Thank you sir. Very much thank you. I took off the TB last night after cleaning the IAC valve and that did not work. So I took it off again and found the entire mechanism was seized somehow so I worked it around. The rpm before was around 1750 idle after warm up. It would shift into second gear in drive with no gas. Now it is at a cool 750. Tysm
You are very welcome. Stoked you figured it and fixed the problem.
Thank you. Man. For all you information you the best to explain everything i have a toyota 4runner am going to do that Thanks for you help 👍
You're welcome Fortino. Good luck with the job.