If you find this video had any value, please consider contributing to my son's recovery from his injuries in blindness, thank you www.gofundme.com/f/25z0fuduk0...
IF THIS HELPED YOU THEN HELP ME HERE www.paypal.com/donate/?token=7rVJdW7Mt2gppEUOTnO6p2oydgTK9cKNXOYB78uWDuQBIrQLl5I03ARvnIeBwn2HTMqkZW6skgd2U0PC&locale.x=US&Z3JncnB0=
Bark side up! Your grandad was right. This might be the best summary of shower construction I've seen. I am using your instruction to aid a builder-basic fiberglass shower/tub replacement with a walk-in using the same space. Much goodness here; thank you.
Im a very handy individual and my dad asked to temporarily fix his shower for insurance purposes (he will completely remodel bathroom later) and i ran into all the mistakes u spoke about other workers. These idio....... I mean PEOPLE, put wall board, then wall tile, and lastly they mortared and floor tiled!!!! I fixed it temporarily but oh boy what a piss poor job. Thank you for taking the time to show your craft
Why do people do 2 layers of motar and you did one? Most videos I see on here they do a sand/topping layer first, and then they do the shower pan liner on top, and then they do a final motar bed? Is there something I’m missing as to why they do it that way?
Question This was a great video. After all the others i watched. This was the most helpful. I have same type of shower, plywood subfloor, My question is on the red guard, if i am correct, you said you coat the pan with red guard after it cures. Will this not interfere with weeping to weep holes. I have never done a shower pan before. First time. I have two large pans in my remodel. Thank you
Do you have a video with a follow up video? I would love to see you tile the pan, grout it and then start filling the gap between to wallboard and pan to prevent wicking.
For a simpler DIY slope process- cant you put a "boarder board" set to slope height around perimeter of shower and use a straight edge to the drain to get the slope taper. remove it after and then fill--- which then would be level- not 4 inches, but enough for the wall tile to sit flush on.
I had a bathroom remodel a couple of yrs ago and some tile came off the curb. When i looked into where it came off it looked like the curb height had been altered/ increased by installing 2 pieces of drywall or waterboard (maybe even cement board) on top of the curb. Does this sound right to you.
I can't see a reason why the curb height would have been increased by a second layer of backer board, no harm no foul though as long as it was done right
I have concrete floors, so I am thinking of building the curb out of bricks as opposed to wood. I would just avoid the pre slope and pan liner, just RedGuard the pan and it should be good enough ...
Bob - great video. In a 2016 video, you talk about mixing your mortar like to mason. In this video - your using a dry pack. Is there a reason you switched? Do you use a dry pack all the time now? Is there a big difference in doing it one way or the other? Keep up the great work!!
I have different viewers on my channel, some are homeowners and others are contractors so I make sure I show both ways but I don't recommend a homeowner trying to do a dry pack because the emails and calls I get tell me they're not doing the dry pack correctly and end up with a Dusty surface. As a rule I usually go in between wet mortar and a dry pack
Great video. I was wondering how far down you screwed in the drain cap? It appears it doesn't get screwed all the way down ,or does it? Thank you for posting!
No I do not, I believe when you do a floated curb with a shower pan that you are forced to marry the two and therefore any wicking action could ruin your subfloor outside of the shower , I've seen it many times
You’re such a pro. As a DIYer I put you above all because of how you describe/articulate your reasoning. I have seen different videos on setting the pan liner.. QUESTION: What do you think of cutting into the studs to compensate for the thickness of the folded-corners? Not necessary or good idea?
I'm doing perhaps 24 to 30 showers in a year, maybe 3 allow for that because most are double studded so I never do it because so often I can't..but if you can then go for it
I have binged so many of your videos! Thank you! One question- if I’m doing this in a basement with a concrete slab, should I use pressure treated wood for the bottom piece of my curb? I know you don’t in the video but perhaps basements are different. I obviously had to use pressure treated wood when framing the walls
Not to beat a dead horse, but if you Redgard the mortor bed, then thinset and tile, won't the thinset saturate? Essentially turning the thinset into the mortor bed. The capillary action will over come the slope? Could that cause the tile to fail? Seems like it is just moving the issue up one layer where there is less volume. DIYer trying to decide.
A mortar bed at any given spot is about an inch thick, a little thicker toward the rear and a little thinner toward the drain either which way it has a lot of moisture that it can wick up and never dry out whereas thin-set is a very thin layer of a harder cement material, plus it has an ability to dry out through the grout line whereas the mortar bed would not
Got it. In my online research on how to do this I don't see anyone else going that way. How long have you been doing it this way?Would make a good demo video, like you did the no preslope. Thanks for the response.
How do you feel about hot mop? What are the advantages/disadvantages, and more importantly, why don't you use it? Also, doesn't putting in screws into the liner compromise the waterproofing? Sorry if that's a dumb question. Just learning here. Thank you!
@@StarrTile Gotcha. Thank you! What about using the Schluter/Kerdi products for the entire shower? Although that is not your way, would you recommend against someone doing that?
I would recommend against somebody doing it that doesn't know what they're doing, all their material is proprietary and all fits a certain way, without any training or watching a whole boatload of videos you might fail the shower
@@StarrTile Thank you very much. I really appreciate your feedback. I want to redo my bathroom and after watching all these videos, I'm having a real hard time trusting the contractors that have been to my place. The more videos I watch, the more I realize how easily I could have been fooled.
StarrTile when I first learned about preslooe I thought, if the water gets under the pan liner then something major is wrong. Especially on a concrete slab, it seems very redundant. I’ll redgaud the slab anyway in case moisture comes up through the ground.
Hello sir . I have been watching nearly all of your videos. I think before you Lay down your plastic liner on the plywood, u have to slope the plywood to drain by any thing possible and pour concrete over the liner . In this case the under tile water passes faster towards the drain and water will not stay at all . If u don’t do it , the concrete will absorb the under tile water and is always wet under the tile.please let me know your opinion. Thank you
Preslope Explained... I made this video 6 years ago for people that don't understand about wicking action, and how only a minor amount of water will ever go into weep holes. czcams.com/video/v0HzU42XZz4/video.html
If you go to my main Channel at the top right corner you will see a PayPal link, also if you go to my main Channel there's 8 different tabs and the last one says "About" scroll down on that Tab and you will see the same link. But honestly it's a thought that counts, thank you 👌🏻
I like that you think outside the box, and have adapted your style of how you build your showers. I see one problem though and I would like to get your thought about it. Since you use a clamp drain with a liner, with the red guard water proofing on top of the mortar bed and around the drain, when the drain back ups (say clogged with hair, this is a yearly thing at my house), water will go through the weep holes and into your mortar bed. Are you worried about the mold sandwich with the liner and red guard once this happens? and do you think that water in the mortar bed, will ever be able to dry out once it happens? Have you ever thought about eliminating the liner and clamp drain, and just using a non clamp drain with the red guard so 100% of the water proofing, whether the water is backing up or draining normally, is on top of the mortar bed/red guard?
Before the pan liner goes on the top locking flange no, there is a bead of caulking that has run and then the Locking flange pushes down on that caulking make it impossible for water to get up underneath especially if there's a backup
StarrTile it sounds like you are talking about water getting underneath the liner. Maybe I am not understanding what you said. I am definitely more of a visual learner. I am talking about water backing up through the weep holes and getting in the mortar between the liner and the red guard, soaking your mortar bed.
Water will not be able to get up to your weep holes because obviously there is a bead of silicone around the top locking flange, but I get what you were saying with regard to that area not being waterproof, I suppose that would be a little bit of an Achilles heel if that happened enough times but I cannot see the pan being saturated through some small openings like that
StarrTile I agree, it would most likely be very minimal and like your 100 year shower video, even if it wasn’t minimal, we are looking at an easy 20 years of use still.
The advantage is green board is solid and stiff between studs whereas duraroc has a little give in it, so what is basically like denshield.. A gypsum product that is pre waterproof, once I waterproof my green board it is the same thing. And no I don't believe in doing a pre slope, I have a video about that call prieslope explained you can look for it
I rarely do...only if I think about it at the time & caulk gun is nearby. Statistically speaking you have a better chance of being hit by lightning than you do your shower backing up, which is only reason the caulking would be there to begin with
I don't use the old method of water in water out so deck mud would not be relevant to my method. When everything is waterproof tan the surface then it's irrelevant oh, the waterproofer also serves as a crack preventer, when everything is prepped and ready for tile the entire shower is completely waterproof
I would love to hear your opinion on the USG Durock Shower System. I argued with a tile guy that no matter what, he should be using redgard or aquadefense. To me the USG Durock system seemed full of soooo many steps making it too easy to miss one step causing compromise of the waterproofing. It seems to easy to just add redgard or aquadefense to further guarantee waterproofing. This is the video for that system czcams.com/video/G2dmFV1GfHo/video.html He insisted that he did not have to use any water proofing product other that the products shown on the video.
Hard to believe that videos five years old and I never knew that USG made all of their proprietary products like all the other companies out there, it's a lot of material that again is proprietary, it's a lot of expense, looks like it takes a long time, I would never want it even if somebody gave it to me
StarrTile thank you for the reply! There were soooo many steps. So complex, no offense but I would want to be there watching taking note that no steps were skipped. They guy tried to make it seem like “oh this is the new way, your way is outdated”. I was not having it.
IF THIS HELPED YOU THEN HELP ME HERE
www.paypal.com/donate/?token=7rVJdW7Mt2gppEUOTnO6p2oydgTK9cKNXOYB78uWDuQBIrQLl5I03ARvnIeBwn2HTMqkZW6skgd2U0PC&locale.x=US&Z3JncnB0=
I learned how to do showers watching your videos 3 years ago and I have built 12 bathrooms so far!
Bark side up! Your grandad was right.
This might be the best summary of shower construction I've seen. I am using your instruction to aid a builder-basic fiberglass shower/tub replacement with a walk-in using the same space. Much goodness here; thank you.
As soon as you said "20 day cure time", it dawned on me that I wouldn't be building a tiled shower "this weekend" as the wife requested.
0:18 Grain of woof is the secret!! Love ya Bob and all of your professional build quality!!
Thank you for this video
Im a very handy individual and my dad asked to temporarily fix his shower for insurance purposes (he will completely remodel bathroom later) and i ran into all the mistakes u spoke about other workers. These idio....... I mean PEOPLE, put wall board, then wall tile, and lastly they mortared and floor tiled!!!! I fixed it temporarily but oh boy what a piss poor job. Thank you for taking the time to show your craft
Thank you for your videos. I am doing my first shower with your information
I really appreciate this video, very helpful!
Awesome Video! You mentioned a couple of different heights the mortar perimeter should be. Would you recommend 4 in or 2in? Thank you!
Why do people do 2 layers of motar and you did one? Most videos I see on here they do a sand/topping layer first, and then they do the shower pan liner on top, and then they do a final motar bed? Is there something I’m missing as to why they do it that way?
Question
This was a great video. After all the others i watched. This was the most helpful.
I have same type of shower, plywood subfloor,
My question is on the red guard, if i am correct, you said you coat the pan with red guard after it cures.
Will this not interfere with weeping to weep holes.
I have never done a shower pan before. First time.
I have two large pans in my remodel.
Thank you
You either do a water and water out system or you do a sealed system which is what I do, thereby making the weep holes obsolete
Do you have a video with a follow up video? I would love to see you tile the pan, grout it and then start filling the gap between to wallboard and pan to prevent wicking.
very nice video, do more like that
Awesome!!! Thank's for that!
For a simpler DIY slope process- cant you put a "boarder board" set to slope height around perimeter of shower and use a straight edge to the drain to get the slope taper. remove it after and then fill--- which then would be level- not 4 inches, but enough for the wall tile to sit flush on.
Great vid. What silicone did u use around the flange?
White silicone
I had a bathroom remodel a couple of yrs ago and some tile came off the curb. When i looked into where it came off it looked like the curb height had been altered/ increased by installing 2 pieces of drywall or waterboard (maybe even cement board) on top of the curb. Does this sound right to you.
I can't see a reason why the curb height would have been increased by a second layer of backer board, no harm no foul though as long as it was done right
I have concrete floors, so I am thinking of building the curb out of bricks as opposed to wood.
I would just avoid the pre slope and pan liner, just RedGuard the pan and it should be good enough ...
i enjoy more TimeLapse videos
Hey mate
I want to build a shower for my bus
Will the mortar or tiles crack over time while driving around enjoying life
can you do the pan after drywall is in? then do backer board?
Bob - great video. In a 2016 video, you talk about mixing your mortar like to mason. In this video - your using a dry pack. Is there a reason you switched? Do you use a dry pack all the time now? Is there a big difference in doing it one way or the other? Keep up the great work!!
I have different viewers on my channel, some are homeowners and others are contractors so I make sure I show both ways but I don't recommend a homeowner trying to do a dry pack because the emails and calls I get tell me they're not doing the dry pack correctly and end up with a Dusty surface. As a rule I usually go in between wet mortar and a dry pack
Great video. I was wondering how far down you screwed in the drain cap? It appears it doesn't get screwed all the way down ,or does it? Thank you for posting!
Usually about an inch and half...depends on size of shower, a huge shower it might be 2" or 2 1/4"
@@StarrTile Thank you so much!
Beautiful job, but I have a question do you fat mud the curb?
No I do not, I believe when you do a floated curb with a shower pan that you are forced to marry the two and therefore any wicking action could ruin your subfloor outside of the shower , I've seen it many times
You’re such a pro. As a DIYer I put you above all because of how you describe/articulate your reasoning. I have seen different videos on setting the pan liner..
QUESTION: What do you think of cutting into the studs to compensate for the thickness of the folded-corners? Not necessary or good idea?
I'm doing perhaps 24 to 30 showers in a year, maybe 3 allow for that because most are double studded so I never do it because so often I can't..but if you can then go for it
I have binged so many of your videos! Thank you! One question- if I’m doing this in a basement with a concrete slab, should I use pressure treated wood for the bottom piece of my curb? I know you don’t in the video but perhaps basements are different. I obviously had to use pressure treated wood when framing the walls
Binged? Really Steve Palmer?
Have you had any issues with your mortar mix? Do you replace the water with the acrylic additive ?
Never had issues, straight water
I would recommend that you preslope under the pan material so any water will get out the weep holes.
I waterproof the entire shower including the floor so preslope is irrelevant
Not to beat a dead horse, but if you Redgard the mortor bed, then thinset and tile, won't the thinset saturate? Essentially turning the thinset into the mortor bed. The capillary action will over come the slope? Could that cause the tile to fail? Seems like it is just moving the issue up one layer where there is less volume.
DIYer trying to decide.
A mortar bed at any given spot is about an inch thick, a little thicker toward the rear and a little thinner toward the drain either which way it has a lot of moisture that it can wick up and never dry out whereas thin-set is a very thin layer of a harder cement material, plus it has an ability to dry out through the grout line whereas the mortar bed would not
Got it. In my online research on how to do this I don't see anyone else going that way. How long have you been doing it this way?Would make a good demo video, like you did the no preslope.
Thanks for the response.
Do you have the next steps ina video
How do you feel about hot mop? What are the advantages/disadvantages, and more importantly, why don't you use it? Also, doesn't putting in screws into the liner compromise the waterproofing? Sorry if that's a dumb question. Just learning here.
Thank you!
I think hot mop is ridiculous, it's Antiquated system and it's messy and it stinks, much much better ways nowadays
@@StarrTile Gotcha. Thank you! What about using the Schluter/Kerdi products for the entire shower? Although that is not your way, would you recommend against someone doing that?
I would recommend against somebody doing it that doesn't know what they're doing, all their material is proprietary and all fits a certain way, without any training or watching a whole boatload of videos you might fail the shower
@@StarrTile Thank you very much. I really appreciate your feedback. I want to redo my bathroom and after watching all these videos, I'm having a real hard time trusting the contractors that have been to my place. The more videos I watch, the more I realize how easily I could have been fooled.
Great video , thanks for sharing your knowledge @starrtile
I was wondering about the preslope? Is that necessary?
I don't believe they function as intended...and if you waterproof the surface then it's irrelevant
StarrTile when I first learned about preslooe I thought, if the water gets under the pan liner then something major is wrong. Especially on a concrete slab, it seems very redundant. I’ll redgaud the slab anyway in case moisture comes up through the ground.
I used a wet mortar mix. How long should it cure before Redgarding it? I plan to red guard the entire top of pan.
As long as possible...mortar is a cement product so 18-21 days is optimal, but minimum 3-4 days
Thank you for the reply and for sharing your knowledge. It's nice to see a trades person that takes the extra time to do it right.
Hello sir . I have been watching nearly all of your videos. I think before you Lay down your plastic liner on the plywood, u have to slope the plywood to drain by any thing possible and pour concrete over the liner . In this case the under tile water passes faster towards the drain and water will not stay at all . If u don’t do it , the concrete will absorb the under tile water and is always wet under the tile.please let me know your opinion. Thank you
Preslope Explained...
I made this video 6 years ago for people that don't understand about wicking action, and how only a minor amount of water will ever go into weep holes.
czcams.com/video/v0HzU42XZz4/video.html
I didn't catch what kind of cement you used?
What if you put the durock up before the liner and mud?
You can't do it that is ass backwards
@@StarrTile that’s right sorry. what about studs, liner, durock on walls then mud
@@KoalaHugsGoatSharks yes
I tried all the links to contribute $. It shows a message that says page not available?
If you go to my main Channel at the top right corner you will see a PayPal link, also if you go to my main Channel there's 8 different tabs and the last one says "About" scroll down on that Tab and you will see the same link.
But honestly it's a thought that counts, thank you 👌🏻
@@StarrTile hi send me the link if possible
@@user-lf7en6rf8m
www.paypal.com/donate?token=YpVYIN6f1x1tH82YiYQUwn8YCCCQT5fGy9ZBk4VpB6mMrVeBrrqeL4RJJcJwpf4et3Cux35hVERU-VAN&locale.x=US
I like that you think outside the box, and have adapted your style of how you build your showers. I see one problem though and I would like to get your thought about it.
Since you use a clamp drain with a liner, with the red guard water proofing on top of the mortar bed and around the drain, when the drain back ups (say clogged with hair, this is a yearly thing at my house), water will go through the weep holes and into your mortar bed.
Are you worried about the mold sandwich with the liner and red guard once this happens? and do you think that water in the mortar bed, will ever be able to dry out once it happens?
Have you ever thought about eliminating the liner and clamp drain, and just using a non clamp drain with the red guard so 100% of the water proofing, whether the water is backing up or draining normally, is on top of the mortar bed/red guard?
Before the pan liner goes on the top locking flange no, there is a bead of caulking that has run and then the Locking flange pushes down on that caulking make it impossible for water to get up underneath especially if there's a backup
StarrTile it sounds like you are talking about water getting underneath the liner. Maybe I am not understanding what you said. I am definitely more of a visual learner. I am talking about water backing up through the weep holes and getting in the mortar between the liner and the red guard, soaking your mortar bed.
Water will not be able to get up to your weep holes because obviously there is a bead of silicone around the top locking flange, but I get what you were saying with regard to that area not being waterproof, I suppose that would be a little bit of an Achilles heel if that happened enough times but I cannot see the pan being saturated through some small openings like that
StarrTile I agree, it would most likely be very minimal and like your 100 year shower video, even if it wasn’t minimal, we are looking at an easy 20 years of use still.
are you tiling on straight drywall?
Yes...greenboard
@@StarrTile is there an advantage to greenboard from durock? also, is it better to not lay a mud bed under the pan liner?
The advantage is green board is solid and stiff between studs whereas duraroc has a little give in it, so what is basically like denshield.. A gypsum product that is pre waterproof, once I waterproof my green board it is the same thing.
And no I don't believe in doing a pre slope, I have a video about that call prieslope explained you can look for it
U shouldnt put a fan on the concrete/cement; this will weaken the material
Love to you and your family “shave your knuckles for justice” great video BLM
Willing to bet u didn't put caulking on the bottom flange
I rarely do...only if I think about it at the time & caulk gun is nearby. Statistically speaking you have a better chance of being hit by lightning than you do your shower backing up, which is only reason the caulking would be there to begin with
StarrTile interesting respond. I’d lie to see those statistics to show proof what you are stating in this video. Thanks.
You did not put a pre-slope under your liner. You are building showers wrong.
Could you use meow for the curb, instead of woof? :)
😱😂
Does the heated room have anything to do with expansion in different seasons? Thx
Absolutely, we have wood-frame houses here so everything affects that from heat and cold to humidity and building methods
@@StarrTile awsome, thx! Would love to see u put thinset and tile over the deck mud!
I don't use the old method of water in water out so deck mud would not be relevant to my method. When everything is waterproof tan the surface then it's irrelevant oh, the waterproofer also serves as a crack preventer, when everything is prepped and ready for tile the entire shower is completely waterproof
@@StarrTile so ur saying put waterproof on the deck mud, then apply thinset? Thx man.
aren't you afraid of the concrete going down the drain??
I would love to hear your opinion on the USG Durock Shower System. I argued with a tile guy that no matter what, he should be using redgard or aquadefense. To me the USG Durock system seemed full of soooo many steps making it too easy to miss one step causing compromise of the waterproofing. It seems to easy to just add redgard or aquadefense to further guarantee waterproofing. This is the video for that system czcams.com/video/G2dmFV1GfHo/video.html He insisted that he did not have to use any water proofing product other that the products shown on the video.
Hard to believe that videos five years old and I never knew that USG made all of their proprietary products like all the other companies out there, it's a lot of material that again is proprietary, it's a lot of expense, looks like it takes a long time, I would never want it even if somebody gave it to me
StarrTile thank you for the reply! There were soooo many steps. So complex, no offense but I would want to be there watching taking note that no steps were skipped. They guy tried to make it seem like “oh this is the new way, your way is outdated”. I was not having it.
Pan liners are outdated!