I show the entire process of a shower build...perhaps SOME details were left out due to time constraints, but overall this is how I build every shower. And each one is 100% waterproof using MY METHOD.
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@fishon3586 I speak about different ways to do anything but I still prefer my way the best. Most homeowners have a difficult time with a dry pack because there's no recipe for how much water to add and it usually turns out Dusty and non-workable so I don't push it very much.
@@fishon3586 if you go back on my Channel about 8 years ago you will see my mortar is a bit wet..not so wet that there will be a problem but enough that there will not be dust at the end, and yes I definitely waterproof the entire surface of My Pan and including the walls, showered should be functional with no title on it is the mantra
Bob, I really like how you go about explaining everything you do. So when you do a taper cut in the floor to allow the drain base to fit flush with the existing floor, I had thought on this quite extensively; have you consisered using a router and flush cut bit to route out the debth and circumference of the drain base after having scribed the diameter of the floor drain upon said floor. I actually applied this to my own build and was quite pleased with the outcome as it left me a more flat area to screw the drain base down to, and without having to remove an excess amount of material, as i noticed in your video. Again thanks for for all your input, its been a lot of help in doing my shower build. Take care.
Hey Bob, Can you please upload more videos like this. This was awesome and very educational. Thank you for the upload, I know it’s a lot of work to film and work at the same time. Thank you!
I was sweating about my drain height. Not anymore. Better a touch low than high. Love you work. I'm almost to tiling. 36" linear drain. Buried in mortar bed. Can't change it now. Red guard everywhere
Thanks much for the video. As much as we like to see and hear about mistakes, it's more satisfying to watch a beautiful space come to fruition, crafted by a master.
Sr.. just watching you work like that with those results...encourage me to renew my shower....thanks for helping others understand how is your job done ✔
Glad to see your work. It took me well over a month to complete my shower. Keeping in mind I work 7 days a week at my job. The red guard is a must and i hope everyone uses it. I ended up using a trough drain and everyone that sees that are impressed. Also installed one of the frameless doors which really looks great. Keep up with the great videos.
I'm starting on a custom tile shower now. Your videos have been more than helpful to get the small details and order of operations right. Wish me luck.
Update: Plumbing is done, drain flange glued and screwed, subfloor is closed up. I dropped the bottom layer of subfloor so that the top of that layer is at the top of the joists so I could get 1.5" subfloor while keeping it as low as possible. Lots of 2x4 bracing under that subfloor. Man, is it solid. Blocking is in for the pan liner and shower tower, niche and curb are framed out. Ready for liner and mud bed.
this to me is by far my favorite of your videos ..it made such a difference to me since I'm very visual...watching you work was great 👍 very good skills in my opinion
I appreciate you explaining all the steps for beginners, it makes sense when you talk people thru every step no matter how tedious the job👍🏼God bless 🙏🏽🤙🏼
Great video; and great timing. I’m doing the exact same remodel job this week , but found that my stack pipe was in the knee wall. 🥴 My first time doing tile, thank you for your videos!
StarrTile You are very welcome sir. Thank you for sharing your knowledge you have no idea how many showers you have saved all over the world. I know I have learned some things from you that I had no idea about. You are a true artist. Just doing a job and never learning and changing things so they work better is just a job. You learn and sculpt things and finesse the job so it's amazing.
I have watched many, many of your video's (all very good!) and think that the way you did this one was outstanding!! I really enjoyed that and learned a lot!! Thanks!!
Wow! Got dizzy with accelerated video but very informative. My 1st ever attempt tile shower stall 60" x 34" after plumber is finished this week. Oh boy! The devil is in the details.....Thank you! My plumber is putting in an acrylic pan.
Beautiful work man, you're videos have taught me alot👌👍 I also taper my tiles around the drain, and I found it's pretty easy to taper the tiles around square drain corners with a diamond file.
carson Goodman in my imagination, I was guessing they kept the old stuff bc they didn’t want to learn a new knob/handle. Sometimes too much change makes customers feel uneasy in their own home. “Security blanket” familiarities ease customers.
You do great work man. I have a little tile experience but would like to get better at it. It would be awesome if you did a detailed video with up close shots of things like setting the drain assembly with the measurements that you typically go with, as well as about how high you hold you're wall board off the pan. Thanks man
Great job as always, enjoyed the time lapse with commentary. I would even consider turning the video into 2 parts, stopping at the red guard then second video doing the rest.
This is really good. I ran into trouble on my first tub surround, with what I call the "100% coverage fallacy." It made it look a lot worse as far as lippage and other stuff than it could have if I really knew what was going on, and that the sky wouldn't fall without "100% coverage" on walls. Notches on the trowel are mainly there to set the mortar height, they'll be generally 1/2 of the notch size (ie, 1/4" x 1/4" collapsed gives you 1/8" of mortar under your tile, 1/2"x1/2" gives 1/4" etc.) It's actually much better to start with the smallest notch size you can and basically work up to say, 1/2" x 1/2", rather than start big and have nowhere to after to make corrections. On floors it's a little different story, but on walls you do have more leeway as long as you're not spot bonding stuff or building up tons of mortar. Ideally I think you could do a whole shower with even big LFT with 1/4"x1/4" if the tiles were flat and you had a perfectly flat wall, too, but the world isn't ideal. It's almost a trade secret, I find that a lot of tilers won't outright say they do, but in actuality happens. Even if you look at Sal or similar, you'll see him a lot of times doing 1/4"x1/4" and doing it to both the wall and the tile, so he can correct it. But then if you look at coverage charts on mortar bags and the TCNA, they're adament ALL 12"x18" tiles for example MUST use a 1/2"x1/2" with back buttering or else they'll fall off the wall, and it's simply not true. I can understand, because at the same time if they said nothing you'd bet you'd get v-notches and spot bonding galore, but it's not something really understood, the 100% coverage fallacy.
I'm starting out and gaining experience, these videos help. How did you learn? Just through yourself into it? Have you ever have a build go bad? Or make mistakes when you started out. Seems like everyone on here doing showers claims to be perfect lol, just helps to know how people developed their skillset.
I got started doing floors and backsplashes and eventually got into the building showers, yes I have made plenty of mistakes when I first started out but so far only a couple of callbacks that were minor. I did not Mentor or read any books, when you tear things out and realize how they're put back together and do it better that's the best way in my opinion
Awesome Videos! thank you for taking the time to be so detailed! Question on the niche, why dont you set your bottom tile, then the niche wall tile on top of the bottom tile? that way water runs off the bottom tile from the niche wall.
No leveling system? Dang. I just did a vertical strip like that...I would have liked that pencil separation so I didn't have to be so perfect lining up all these little stones with the field
Excellent job ✌️ much appreciated, makes me proud to see great work like this 👍, you did everything 100% , thorough, complete, 5 5tar work tilesetter !!!! 😝 👍
very nice. i noticed the shower valve wasnt centered in the marble? and yes, i wanna see the redguard painting next time. great work. ALso, thank god the 6 holes you made for the plumbing you corrected with a large sheet in the end. And your shiny new ryobi tools. Woohoo.
@@StarrTile Bob, I noticed that too. What drove that? Is it guess work? The owner not wanting to pay to relocate plumbing lines? Or would the larger tile look off if you centered the mosaic?
And you should do the bottom tile piece of the niche “first” so water 💦 would run off your back of the tike unto bottom and NOT go into the crack behind the bottom tile of the niche.
Super job. I liked your professional work very much. Very well done, and very informative. Please keep up the good work and continue posting your projects. Many thanks for this wonderful video.
That's a beautiful job, but I feel it needs to be said that you're doing your client's a bit of a disservice by not recommending that they add basic lighting to the shower ceiling after you've brought it down to the studs, as well as recommending they get a plumber to add other convenient shower features like a diverter valve with a second shower head and/or rain cans...all of which would add immensely to the enjoyment of your end product. It just doesn't cost that much to add a few useful features when the walls are down!
Yes the homeowner was very focused on what they wanted... suggestions are always given and either they accept or decline. But thanks for your comment ✌👍
After all this I will like you to come to see one of my projects and give your opinion somethings I do it different way but its very similar. looks good !!!
This is an excellent, informative video that indirectly answered something I’ve been wondering about for my own design… no issues building a niche into an exterior wall?
I'm in the South and it rarely freezes if ever and even if it does it doesn't last, if I were in Alaska or Upstate New York then perhaps I would not do it on an exterior wall
@@StarrTile Thanks for the reply. We’re in Nashville and do get cold in the winter. I appreciate all your videos. My ten year old shower started leaking and I’m trying to soak up as much knowledge as possible. What started as looking for a bandaid fix may now turn into a full renovation thanks to you and a few other reputable guys on here.
Bob, excellent video. Thank you. As you were applying thinset around the drain you mentioned that you were also going to eventually caulk around the drain. I'm interpreting that to mean you would first complete all of the grouting on the floor and around the drain and than finish it off with a bead of caulk around the drain and in the edges and corners. Is my interpretation correct? Thanks again. Masterful work.
No incorrect, I use silicone around the drain Edge before I put redgard on it, or if I forget I can put silicone after I apply the Red redgard, all of that is prior to the tile and grout
@@StarrTile Hey I like the idea of waterproofing the top layer of the pan, as opposed to the more common method. However I am curious if you silicone around the drain on the top layer of mortar and then totally waterproof with a membrane how does any water that makes it past the grout get to the drain? It can't get to the weepholes because its totally waterproof which is awesome, but its also below the level of the top of the drain...does it just sit on top of the membrane in the thinset forever? I am generally curious as I have never done a shower, is there more weepholes in the top piece of that drain style that I am unaware of that would take care of this issue?
Thank you for your videos. I need to re-do a bathroom that has tiles from 1956. (shower, floors, counter top, and half-way up the walls) We plan to remove all the tiles and go with vinyl flooring and a solid counter top with splashboard (cheap type sold at Home Depot) We also plan to remove the tub and go with a fiberglass type shower liner kit, with a glass door. (again, nothing fancy - the type you can buy at the big box stores) The tiles in the shower were put on with mortar (or concrete?) and chicken wire I think? (A friend has told me this will add cost to the demo of them?) I have had a few contractors out, and I have gotten estimates of $8k to $22k (I gave them all the same specs, so not sure why the large variance in prices?) - This large variance has me confused though - what would be a typical cost to do this remodel if you were doing it? (I am wanting to make sure I do not over-pay, but at the same time, I am afraid if something is too low cost, I may wind up having to have it re-done in just a few years or something. Another big problem I am seeing is that every contractor I have contacted is saying it would bee Jan-Mar before they could even start the project. (I guess they are all swamped due to some wide-spread flooding that happened in Dallas (about 30 miles from me) a couple of weeks ago. Thanks for any help you can shed on this.
Geography makes a difference sometimes, here in Atlanta that job would probably cost you about 9 to 10,000 if I did it, perhaps a bit more, so the two numbers you have, somewhere in the middle would be reasonable for a company, I'm a stand alone tile guy so I don't have the overhead a company does. No matter who does it I highly recommend getting a written warranty, not just verbal, 10 years isn't unreasonable, but most companies won't give it for that long unfortunately. And yes it is very labor intensive for the older style bathrooms with all the cement product that they use, besides the fact it's all embedded with asbestos so there is that too... my price would probably come in at about 12 Grand and I would discount $2,000 for you to do the demo. And yes, typically contractors are busy through the holidays and especially the last couple of years with covid everyone has been busy since most homeowners have been staring at all of their honey-do lists for months. The 20K price usually means they don't want your job, it's an easy way to make you go away, and then if you come back and hire them they will etch out a time period to make it happen for that kind of money.
@@StarrTile Thanks so much for the information. I really appreciate it, and I think it gives me a better understanding of the reason for the price variance I am getting. As for the warranty, I have only been quoted 1 year from everyone. (Which I was surprised about - I was figuring it would be at least 2-3 years) We are wanting to base our selection of the contractor on 1) price 2) unresolved BBB complaints 3) their starting date for the job 4) the length of time the job will take (probably with equal considerations for each of these) Since this is our first time hiring contractors, we are wanting to avoid that TV-type scenario, where the contractor starts the job, then only works on it once a week or less, and it winds up taking 6 months to get it completed. I guess I should ask for references of prior customers to help reduce this worry. (Some of these guys are also wanting 80% of the estimate price just to get me on their schedule, which is a whole new worry I am trying to figure out how to overcome! The lowest deposit anyone has asked for so far is 50% up-front....) Thank you again for the information..... If I were a little younger and had a little better health, I would probably try to tackle the job myself with the information I am learning on your channel and a couple of others.
@@44Mag I don't know that I would depend on the bbb, it's kind of an archaic gauge since you kind of have to belong to it to have a complaint lodged. I would look for a presence on the internet, you can Google their name, their company name, their phone number, and if they have little to no presence then that would be a red flag for me. Also I recommend that people go to stand alone tile stores, go to the loading dock area because the guy behind the counter will be able to recommend good Tile Guys that know what they're doing. And yes I agree a year is not very long, as a rule I will give a lifetime warranty because arguably I don't have much of that left, also if I'm doing something wrong I would want to know about it whether it's one year or 5 years or 10 years from now. My take on it is at your AC usually comes with 5-year, your roof will come with a 10-year, and I don't see any reason for a shower to be any different. Insofar as the deposit goes, I require 20% in advance to hold your spot on my calendar and that is non-refundable so if you cancel then I've only made a very small fraction of the money in relation to the time I've given up. Having said that I require 50% of the remainder as soon as I get there and the other 50% when I'm finished. As to your other issue with timeline, it's been recommended by consumer advocates to stipulate a start date and an end date on the contract, for every day they are late past the end date they would be docked a certain amount of money, that would be up to you guys to decide how much... on the very rare occasions I have written it my contract that way I have agreed to deduct $100 a day for everyday I'm late finishing, I haven't had to pay out yet.
I love it when a contractor is a perfectionist who takes pride in their work and does it well. I hope the homeowner resurfaced that awful ceiling texture, though. It does _not_ go with the beautiful tile work at all.
Technically, I wouldn't call that a knee wall, rather something like a partition. A true knee wall is a low wall in an attic which supports the rafters, and so with the angle of the rafters coming off it, it looks like a slightly bent knee. I can understand though how people might just call any low internal wall a knee wall since they look the same just without the 'knee' effect coming off it.
great work and good video! what do you think of showers that have like a line of drain on one side? is that better than one drain in the middle? i mean it's stylish, just not sure it's better... keep being awesome and teaching us much!
Bob fellow tile guy here in Alabama can you do a video on out of plumb walls and how to transition from interior tile to painted wall with out a huge out of plane look especially for walls the glass lands on. I use 1x4 or pencil tile but I want to get away from that idea to just cover it up. I usually use wet shimming with hot thin set to plumb my walls.
There is no particular method that I use, because every job is a little different I just make do with what I have, but I overlap the seam with my tile and extended out past the shower before any Final Trim goes in
8 days? Wow brother… that’s great. How many hours do you work per day. It always takes me like 2 -3 weeks to do a bathroom. But I only work about 4-5 he’s a day because I still work a night job.
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I thought u hate dry pack moartor?
@fishon3586 I speak about different ways to do anything but I still prefer my way the best.
Most homeowners have a difficult time with a dry pack because there's no recipe for how much water to add and it usually turns out Dusty and non-workable so I don't push it very much.
@@StarrTile gotcha so it's ok to add more water it won't hurt you pan and also I see you water proof your pans now ? Is this still ok to do?
@@fishon3586 if you go back on my Channel about 8 years ago you will see my mortar is a bit wet..not so wet that there will be a problem but enough that there will not be dust at the end, and yes I definitely waterproof the entire surface of My Pan and including the walls, showered should be functional with no title on it is the mantra
@@StarrTile thanks
Thank you so much for not adding music to the background. The voice over was awesome. Really explained a lot.
You're hands down the best tile gut on CZcams... All the other guys like sal and Issac just brag on themselves, you provide useful info
Bob, I really like how you go about explaining everything you do.
So when you do a taper cut in the floor to allow the drain base to fit flush with the existing floor, I had thought on this quite extensively; have you consisered using a router and flush cut bit to route out the debth and circumference of the drain base after having scribed the diameter of the floor drain upon said floor.
I actually applied this to my own build and was quite pleased with the outcome as it left me a more flat area to screw the drain base down to, and without having to remove an excess amount of material, as i noticed in your video.
Again thanks for for all your input, its been a lot of help in doing my shower build. Take care.
Hey Bob,
Can you please upload more videos like this. This was awesome and very educational. Thank you for the upload, I know it’s a lot of work to film and work at the same time. Thank you!
Thanks for doing a time lapse! It’s always fun to see the idiosyncrasies each job has and these are fun to watch
I was sweating about my drain height. Not anymore. Better a touch low than high. Love you work. I'm almost to tiling. 36" linear drain. Buried in mortar bed. Can't change it now. Red guard everywhere
Thanks much for the video. As much as we like to see and hear about mistakes, it's more satisfying to watch a beautiful space come to fruition, crafted by a master.
Sr.. just watching you work like that with those results...encourage me to renew my shower....thanks for helping others understand how is your job done ✔
Glad to see your work. It took me well over a month to complete my shower. Keeping in mind I work 7 days a week at my job. The red guard is a must and i hope everyone uses it. I ended up using a trough drain and everyone that sees that are impressed. Also installed one of the frameless doors which really looks great. Keep up with the great videos.
A true craftsman. Very nice.
Thank you !
Brother .....you are a master!!!
Thank you sir
I'm starting on a custom tile shower now. Your videos have been more than helpful to get the small details and order of operations right. Wish me luck.
Update:
Plumbing is done, drain flange glued and screwed, subfloor is closed up. I dropped the bottom layer of subfloor so that the top of that layer is at the top of the joists so I could get 1.5" subfloor while keeping it as low as possible. Lots of 2x4 bracing under that subfloor. Man, is it solid. Blocking is in for the pan liner and shower tower, niche and curb are framed out.
Ready for liner and mud bed.
this to me is by far my favorite of your videos ..it made such a difference to me since I'm very visual...watching you work was great 👍 very good skills in my opinion
I appreciate you explaining all the steps for beginners, it makes sense when you talk people thru every step no matter how tedious the job👍🏼God bless 🙏🏽🤙🏼
Thanks for the time lapse video. I really like how you applied the profile! Leaving a void to be filled later. I'm definitely going to try that.
Watching the master at work! What a wonderful joy!
Made it look so easy. Having done a similar job i know its far from easy. Cant beat experience!
this was amazing to watch. you've convinced me its impossible to ever DIY my own shower.
😂😂😂
Alex Tran: You are funny!!
Great video, keep up the good work!!
Looks awesome. Really would like to see how the shower door system works, especially with the bench flush with the curb.
Nice job! So talented. You make this look easy.
Great video; and great timing. I’m doing the exact same remodel job this week , but found that my stack pipe was in the knee wall. 🥴 My first time doing tile, thank you for your videos!
Awesome craftsmanship, he does a very good job.
That's an absolutely beautiful job. I love love love the time lapse. Thank you
Thank you !
StarrTile You are very welcome sir. Thank you for sharing your knowledge you have no idea how many showers you have saved all over the world. I know I have learned some things from you that I had no idea about. You are a true artist. Just doing a job and never learning and changing things so they work better is just a job.
You learn and sculpt things and finesse the job so it's amazing.
I have watched many, many of your video's (all very good!) and think that the way you did this one was outstanding!! I really enjoyed that and learned a lot!! Thanks!!
Awesome vid Bob, hope u make more of em. 👍
Stay safe Bob during your journeys !
Thank you sir, I appreciate that...
You do the same 👍👌
Wow! Got dizzy with accelerated video but very informative. My 1st ever attempt tile shower stall 60" x 34" after plumber is finished this week. Oh boy! The devil is in the details.....Thank you! My plumber is putting in an acrylic pan.
Amazing work , of course you are old school the best way there is. This was really entertaining to watch. 👍🏻
Another fine project. Bet you get to choose the work you accept . Good for you. !
Beautiful work man, you're videos have taught me alot👌👍 I also taper my tiles around the drain, and I found it's pretty easy to taper the tiles around square drain corners with a diamond file.
Is tapering only for a natural stone tile? Seems like it wouldn't be appropriate for ceramic tiles.
Very informative, i would hire you in a flash to do my bathrooms!
I learned the ledger board trick from Tile Master also. It's the best.
Wouldn't do it any other way. Once I seen that it made complete sense to go that route.
Thank you for posting this video. Seeing the overview was very helpful.
Awesome Video - Thank you!
THAKS SO MUCH for the voice over choice
You are awesome. I am fallowing your lead on tiling my reno bath project.
That was just fantastic .... Thank you and I learned a lot.
You’re a true craftsman! Excellent attention to detail. Nice work 👍
Great video
Wow! What beautiful work.
Yes!!!! Please do more of these
I can’t believe they paid for that shower and decided to keep the old knob and faucet 😐
IKR, that's exactly thought too
Was adding the same same thing. Keep a $50 shower head on a 8 day job. Nice work as always though!!
I would have bought them a new trim kit...
You do great work but please... I’m 25 years in this business. Ya gotta put some knee pads on lol.
carson Goodman in my imagination, I was guessing they kept the old stuff bc they didn’t want to learn a new knob/handle. Sometimes too much change makes customers feel uneasy in their own home. “Security blanket” familiarities ease customers.
Great video, and thank you for the education!
fabulous!! awesome video!! from start to finish... I enjoyed watching it :)
Absolutely love watching you work!!!
Yeah, great video. Not sure why customer wanted to keep the original shower valve after all that, but whatever.
You do great work man. I have a little tile experience but would like to get better at it. It would be awesome if you did a detailed video with up close shots of things like setting the drain assembly with the measurements that you typically go with, as well as about how high you hold you're wall board off the pan. Thanks man
Excellent videos and have been very helpful walking me through my bath remodel. Thank you
Great job as always, enjoyed the time lapse with commentary. I would even consider turning the video into 2 parts, stopping at the red guard then second video doing the rest.
Love your videos! I wish you were still doing tile showers. I need a true craftsman like yourself here in Georgia.
I am in Georgia👌
Great video Bob, well done
Awesome job!
This is really good. I ran into trouble on my first tub surround, with what I call the "100% coverage fallacy." It made it look a lot worse as far as lippage and other stuff than it could have if I really knew what was going on, and that the sky wouldn't fall without "100% coverage" on walls. Notches on the trowel are mainly there to set the mortar height, they'll be generally 1/2 of the notch size (ie, 1/4" x 1/4" collapsed gives you 1/8" of mortar under your tile, 1/2"x1/2" gives 1/4" etc.) It's actually much better to start with the smallest notch size you can and basically work up to say, 1/2" x 1/2", rather than start big and have nowhere to after to make corrections. On floors it's a little different story, but on walls you do have more leeway as long as you're not spot bonding stuff or building up tons of mortar. Ideally I think you could do a whole shower with even big LFT with 1/4"x1/4" if the tiles were flat and you had a perfectly flat wall, too, but the world isn't ideal.
It's almost a trade secret, I find that a lot of tilers won't outright say they do, but in actuality happens. Even if you look at Sal or similar, you'll see him a lot of times doing 1/4"x1/4" and doing it to both the wall and the tile, so he can correct it. But then if you look at coverage charts on mortar bags and the TCNA, they're adament ALL 12"x18" tiles for example MUST use a 1/2"x1/2" with back buttering or else they'll fall off the wall, and it's simply not true. I can understand, because at the same time if they said nothing you'd bet you'd get v-notches and spot bonding galore, but it's not something really understood, the 100% coverage fallacy.
Thanks for showing install of your shower project, I would love to suggest your video to some of my customers if that's ok with you?
Sure, no problem
Excellent 👍👍
Awesome video. Learned a lot.
Looks great.
Uncle Junior? Thanks for your video. Awesome
I'm starting out and gaining experience, these videos help. How did you learn? Just through yourself into it? Have you ever have a build go bad? Or make mistakes when you started out. Seems like everyone on here doing showers claims to be perfect lol, just helps to know how people developed their skillset.
I got started doing floors and backsplashes and eventually got into the building showers, yes I have made plenty of mistakes when I first started out but so far only a couple of callbacks that were minor. I did not Mentor or read any books, when you tear things out and realize how they're put back together and do it better that's the best way in my opinion
Great video and narrative!
Awesome Videos! thank you for taking the time to be so detailed! Question on the niche, why dont you set your bottom tile, then the niche wall tile on top of the bottom tile? that way water runs off the bottom tile from the niche wall.
Really nice
Very nice work. Thanks for the info.
Thanks
I love that tile. I'll be using that.
Great job as always, you make it look so easy, and i know it's not.
Beautiful shower!
No leveling system? Dang. I just did a vertical strip like that...I would have liked that pencil separation so I didn't have to be so perfect lining up all these little stones with the field
Excellent job ✌️ much appreciated, makes me proud to see great work like this 👍, you did everything 100% , thorough, complete, 5 5tar work tilesetter !!!! 😝 👍
My knees hurt watching you lay that mud bed...
Someone send the man a pair of No Cry knee pads!
Very very nice man!
Some interesting techniques used here... The tile around the drain especially. If I saw you doing that on my jobsite you would be fired on the spot.
Lucky me I'm the one doing firing 😂
22 years with no boss👌👍
Always enjoy your videos
Thanks !!
very nice. i noticed the shower valve wasnt centered in the marble? and yes, i wanna see the redguard painting next time. great work. ALso, thank god the 6 holes you made for the plumbing you corrected with a large sheet in the end. And your shiny new ryobi tools. Woohoo.
Valve was off mosaic about 3/4"...I tried
@@StarrTile
Bob, I noticed that too. What drove that? Is it guess work? The owner not wanting to pay to relocate plumbing lines? Or would the larger tile look off if you centered the mosaic?
@@vicarod stud was in the way and valve was set to it way before tile was set
And you should do the bottom tile piece of the niche “first” so water 💦 would run off your back of the tike unto bottom and NOT go into the crack behind the bottom tile of the niche.
Super job. I liked your professional work very much. Very well done, and very informative. Please keep up the good work and continue posting your projects. Many thanks for this wonderful video.
Too bad they don't have a timelapse of Michelangelo carving David, but this is close :-) Fun to watch !
That's a beautiful job, but I feel it needs to be said that you're doing your client's a bit of a disservice by not recommending that they add basic lighting to the shower ceiling after you've brought it down to the studs, as well as recommending they get a plumber to add other convenient shower features like a diverter valve with a second shower head and/or rain cans...all of which would add immensely to the enjoyment of your end product. It just doesn't cost that much to add a few useful features when the walls are down!
Yes the homeowner was very focused on what they wanted... suggestions are always given and either they accept or decline.
But thanks for your comment ✌👍
Omg you super awesome you teach me a lot thank you for making this video
Beautiful job!
After all this I will like you to come to see one of my projects and give your opinion somethings I do it different way but its very similar. looks good !!!
Excellent!!
This is an excellent, informative video that indirectly answered something I’ve been wondering about for my own design… no issues building a niche into an exterior wall?
I'm in the South and it rarely freezes if ever and even if it does it doesn't last, if I were in Alaska or Upstate New York then perhaps I would not do it on an exterior wall
@@StarrTile Thanks for the reply. We’re in Nashville and do get cold in the winter. I appreciate all your videos. My ten year old shower started leaking and I’m trying to soak up as much knowledge as possible. What started as looking for a bandaid fix may now turn into a full renovation thanks to you and a few other reputable guys on here.
another 1970's shower to repair!!
Great job💪💪🇺🇸✌️😎💰💰💰💰
And you don’t use “mesh tape” ??
Mesh keeps the the cracks from expanding and cracking the tile or separating grout joints.
Thank You, amazing work
Bob, excellent video. Thank you. As you were applying thinset around the drain you mentioned that you were also going to eventually caulk around the drain. I'm interpreting that to mean you would first complete all of the grouting on the floor and around the drain and than finish it off with a bead of caulk around the drain and in the edges and corners. Is my interpretation correct? Thanks again. Masterful work.
No incorrect, I use silicone around the drain Edge before I put redgard on it, or if I forget I can put silicone after I apply the Red redgard, all of that is prior to the tile and grout
@@StarrTile Hey I like the idea of waterproofing the top layer of the pan, as opposed to the more common method. However I am curious if you silicone around the drain on the top layer of mortar and then totally waterproof with a membrane how does any water that makes it past the grout get to the drain? It can't get to the weepholes because its totally waterproof which is awesome, but its also below the level of the top of the drain...does it just sit on top of the membrane in the thinset forever?
I am generally curious as I have never done a shower, is there more weepholes in the top piece of that drain style that I am unaware of that would take care of this issue?
@@StarrTile Any issues with silicone preventing rearguard from adhering as it is "unpaintable"? Would a polyurethane caulk be acceptable?
Coo. Bob at warp 8.
Thank you for your videos.
I need to re-do a bathroom that has tiles from 1956. (shower, floors, counter top, and half-way up the walls)
We plan to remove all the tiles and go with vinyl flooring and a solid counter top with splashboard (cheap type sold at Home Depot)
We also plan to remove the tub and go with a fiberglass type shower liner kit, with a glass door. (again, nothing fancy - the type you can buy at the big box stores)
The tiles in the shower were put on with mortar (or concrete?) and chicken wire I think? (A friend has told me this will add cost to the demo of them?)
I have had a few contractors out, and I have gotten estimates of $8k to $22k (I gave them all the same specs, so not sure why the large variance in prices?) -
This large variance has me confused though - what would be a typical cost to do this remodel if you were doing it? (I am wanting to make sure I do not over-pay, but at the same time, I am afraid if something is too low cost, I may wind up having to have it re-done in just a few years or something.
Another big problem I am seeing is that every contractor I have contacted is saying it would bee Jan-Mar before they could even start the project. (I guess they are all swamped due to some wide-spread flooding that happened in Dallas (about 30 miles from me) a couple of weeks ago.
Thanks for any help you can shed on this.
Geography makes a difference sometimes, here in Atlanta that job would probably cost you about 9 to 10,000 if I did it, perhaps a bit more, so the two numbers you have, somewhere in the middle would be reasonable for a company, I'm a stand alone tile guy so I don't have the overhead a company does.
No matter who does it I highly recommend getting a written warranty, not just verbal, 10 years isn't unreasonable, but most companies won't give it for that long unfortunately.
And yes it is very labor intensive for the older style bathrooms with all the cement product that they use, besides the fact it's all embedded with asbestos so there is that too... my price would probably come in at about 12 Grand and I would discount $2,000 for you to do the demo.
And yes, typically contractors are busy through the holidays and especially the last couple of years with covid everyone has been busy since most homeowners have been staring at all of their honey-do lists for months. The 20K price usually means they don't want your job, it's an easy way to make you go away, and then if you come back and hire them they will etch out a time period to make it happen for that kind of money.
@@StarrTile Thanks so much for the information. I really appreciate it, and I think it gives me a better understanding of the reason for the price variance I am getting.
As for the warranty, I have only been quoted 1 year from everyone. (Which I was surprised about - I was figuring it would be at least 2-3 years)
We are wanting to base our selection of the contractor on
1) price
2) unresolved BBB complaints
3) their starting date for the job
4) the length of time the job will take
(probably with equal considerations for each of these)
Since this is our first time hiring contractors, we are wanting to avoid that TV-type scenario, where the contractor starts the job, then only works on it once a week or less, and it winds up taking 6 months to get it completed. I guess I should ask for references of prior customers to help reduce this worry.
(Some of these guys are also wanting 80% of the estimate price just to get me on their schedule, which is a whole new worry I am trying to figure out how to overcome! The lowest deposit anyone has asked for so far is 50% up-front....)
Thank you again for the information..... If I were a little younger and had a little better health, I would probably try to tackle the job myself with the information I am learning on your channel and a couple of others.
@@44Mag I don't know that I would depend on the bbb, it's kind of an archaic gauge since you kind of have to belong to it to have a complaint lodged. I would look for a presence on the internet, you can Google their name, their company name, their phone number, and if they have little to no presence then that would be a red flag for me. Also I recommend that people go to stand alone tile stores, go to the loading dock area because the guy behind the counter will be able to recommend good Tile Guys that know what they're doing.
And yes I agree a year is not very long, as a rule I will give a lifetime warranty because arguably I don't have much of that left, also if I'm doing something wrong I would want to know about it whether it's one year or 5 years or 10 years from now. My take on it is at your AC usually comes with 5-year, your roof will come with a 10-year, and I don't see any reason for a shower to be any different.
Insofar as the deposit goes, I require 20% in advance to hold your spot on my calendar and that is non-refundable so if you cancel then I've only made a very small fraction of the money in relation to the time I've given up. Having said that I require 50% of the remainder as soon as I get there and the other 50% when I'm finished.
As to your other issue with timeline, it's been recommended by consumer advocates to stipulate a start date and an end date on the contract, for every day they are late past the end date they would be docked a certain amount of money, that would be up to you guys to decide how much... on the very rare occasions I have written it my contract that way I have agreed to deduct $100 a day for everyday I'm late finishing, I haven't had to pay out yet.
@@StarrTile Thanks again...Great outlook on your warranty coverage! 😂😁
I love it when a contractor is a perfectionist who takes pride in their work and does it well. I hope the homeowner resurfaced that awful ceiling texture, though. It does _not_ go with the beautiful tile work at all.
Technically, I wouldn't call that a knee wall, rather something like a partition. A true knee wall is a low wall in an attic which supports the rafters, and so with the angle of the rafters coming off it, it looks like a slightly bent knee. I can understand though how people might just call any low internal wall a knee wall since they look the same just without the 'knee' effect coming off it.
Very nice
great work and good video!
what do you think of showers that have like a line of drain on one side? is that better than one drain in the middle? i mean it's stylish, just not sure it's better...
keep being awesome and teaching us much!
I like those drains, but they're not any better, still water goes into a 2'' opening. Mainly they are for looks
I used one of those trough drains and everyone that sees it loves it.
A drain frame would remedy the need for a circular cut around the drain
Explain a drain frame, not sure I'm familiar with that
Bob fellow tile guy here in Alabama can you do a video on out of plumb walls and how to transition from interior tile to painted wall with out a huge out of plane look especially for walls the glass lands on. I use 1x4 or pencil tile but I want to get away from that idea to just cover it up. I usually use wet shimming with hot thin set to plumb my walls.
There is no particular method that I use, because every job is a little different I just make do with what I have, but I overlap the seam with my tile and extended out past the shower before any Final Trim goes in
8 days? Wow brother… that’s great. How many hours do you work per day. It always takes me like 2 -3 weeks to do a bathroom. But I only work about 4-5 he’s a day because I still work a night job.
Do you push the floor tile all the way up inside the pan liner-backerboard gap?
You def earned my subscription