That's a nice wee TF, good luck with it, I had an F a few years ago and loved it. One thing to be careful of is those heatshrink solder joints, especially in high current and high temperature areas. They often give a poor connection so you could have issues with high resistance and dodgy lights.
Hard luck buddy you just can't factor in electric gremlins as for thr emissions on another day with an Italian tune up may well òf past Keep the faith and sort those niggling faults and before you know it you will be going a long those country land with the roof down and big smile stuck on your mug.😇😇😇
Great to see you back. Sorry to hear the MOT didn't go so well, but it sounds like you know what's required for a straightforward fix to sail through the re-test. Just spent the day dismantling and replacing the wiper linkage on my TF - which I bought a couple of weeks ago partly inspired by watching your videos! Cheers.
Oh so close but the list is getting shorter of things to do. I've heard Catclean is worth a try sometimes to get you through emissions, it cleans all the crap out. Sounds like a new alternator is needed too...this all brings back many memories of my struggles with the other 3 I've owned...almost feel I'm cheating with the one I bought...keep em coming 👍🇬🇧
New sub , just found your channel last night at work. I've always liked these what are they like to drive ps I'm working my way through your channel thanks for the cool videos
I love driving mine, it suffers with a sticky throttle cable which is irritating, but once that is sorted they are great fun, especially when it's dry and you can get the roof down.
Look at your emissions sheet! Your Cat is working fine as the HC's are low. You have high Carbon Monoxide, this is normally because you are running rich thus not enough oxygen to create carbon dioxide. You need to look at the fuelling trim sensors like the lambda sensor or tps and temp sensors etc, use your scan tool to see what the long term and short term fuel trims are.
Thanks for the comment, I was reading around and getting mixed messages re potential issue. My first plan was to re install the post cat O2 sensor... and go from there. The other anomaly I have with my TF as it has a straight early mk1 F cat on it for some reason. The exhaust was fitted my Trophy Cars some time ago so not sure if it's been change out since. The early cats are euro 2, and later euro 3. Complicating things, but maybe not the issue. Do you know what trim levels i should look for on a 160? Also spark plugs/ air filter, could they be the issue?
@@Exhausted-autos I'm an autoelectrician/diagnostic guy and I run an ECU repair business so I have half a clue :) Catalytic converters just act as a burning chamber for unburnt fuel/hydrocarbons... yours is working because there is not excessive HC's on the test sheet. Always start with putting your hand over the tail pipe while its running, you can hear the leaks, leaks always suck in air and screw up the lambda readings. Then check your basic sensors with an obd2 scan tool..... 1) TPS - does it go roughly from 0 to 100% when you press the pedal 2) coolant and air temp sensors - are they sane values e.g. the same as ambient air etc. not -40 degrees or something. 3) MAP - does it show proper vacuum at idle and atmosphere when the engine is running. 4) Lambda sensors - run it up till its properly warm, do the lambda sensor values "bounce" between 0.15v and 0.85v... pre cat is important and is used for fuel trimming 5) LTFT / STFT - are the fuel trims sane e.g. + or - a couple of percent.... if they are large like 10% is shows it is trying to correct itself excessively and points to a problem of some sort. Hope that helps, these are very simple EFi systems on these old Rovers, good to learn the basics on.
If you turn on the ignition (without starting the engine) and the battery light doesn’t illuminate it is most likely the alternator diode pack, a typical fault with no warning until the battery runs out of electrons.
Shame about the mot but once the new cat is on it will sail through, great series as I used to have one in the same colour and really loved it, great little cars.
What a pity, but you're almost there. Alternators on the TF are not the strongest. Mine went back in 2011 when the car was barely 7 years' old and had only 40k on the clock. I put in a reconditioned one and it's held up since. Before you replace the cat, did you check the O2 sensor is working?
what tf! never ever take your car there again, or ill give you a slap! 35 years in the trade mate, first 10 for austin rover, 10 with mazda and the rest with vauxhal ford and daf, i wouldnt trust one of those rapid fit clowns, to put my nuts out if they were on fire, never mind a car! get it to a main dealer, all the mechanics are trained and reach a standard. very rare will you find a main dealer tech, in a bodge it and scarper. if the alternator is faulty, can be just disconnected and the mot resumed. alt is only there to supply electricity. it will run happily off the battery. same as if a door is sagging its an mot fail, take it off, they can not fail it. spot lights etc not working... fail, take them out, its a pass... simple.
That's a nice wee TF, good luck with it, I had an F a few years ago and loved it.
One thing to be careful of is those heatshrink solder joints, especially in high current and high temperature areas. They often give a poor connection so you could have issues with high resistance and dodgy lights.
Thanks for the tip
Glad you're back hope you get it through the MOT on your next video.
Thanks, maybe next few videos.
Unlucky mate, so close, fingers crossed in the next episode you get it all sorted!
Cheers buddy.....
Hard luck buddy you just can't factor in electric gremlins as for thr emissions on another day with an Italian tune up may well òf past
Keep the faith and sort those niggling faults and before you know it you will be going a long those country land with the roof down and big smile stuck on your mug.😇😇😇
Great to see you back. Sorry to hear the MOT didn't go so well, but it sounds like you know what's required for a straightforward fix to sail through the re-test. Just spent the day dismantling and replacing the wiper linkage on my TF - which I bought a couple of weeks ago partly inspired by watching your videos! Cheers.
That's good to hear, thanks for the comment. Hopefully pick up an alternator later today. Just need to get the cat off and make a plan for that.
Oh so close but the list is getting shorter of things to do. I've heard Catclean is worth a try sometimes to get you through emissions, it cleans all the crap out. Sounds like a new alternator is needed too...this all brings back many memories of my struggles with the other 3 I've owned...almost feel I'm cheating with the one I bought...keep em coming 👍🇬🇧
... yeah yours is far too shiny..... 😀😀😉
Welcome back buddy! This project car keeps on giving!
New sub , just found your channel last night at work. I've always liked these what are they like to drive ps I'm working my way through your channel thanks for the cool videos
Thanks for the comment... from the limit driving ive done it certainly puts a smile on my face. It's fantastic for the price.
I love driving mine, it suffers with a sticky throttle cable which is irritating, but once that is sorted they are great fun, especially when it's dry and you can get the roof down.
If you are going to fail pal ... fail big .. wasn't expecting that either, good video here's to the next one .
.... yeah crap in real life, but great for the channel content 👍
Look at your emissions sheet! Your Cat is working fine as the HC's are low. You have high Carbon Monoxide, this is normally because you are running rich thus not enough oxygen to create carbon dioxide. You need to look at the fuelling trim sensors like the lambda sensor or tps and temp sensors etc, use your scan tool to see what the long term and short term fuel trims are.
Thanks for the comment, I was reading around and getting mixed messages re potential issue.
My first plan was to re install the post cat O2 sensor... and go from there.
The other anomaly I have with my TF as it has a straight early mk1 F cat on it for some reason. The exhaust was fitted my Trophy Cars some time ago so not sure if it's been change out since. The early cats are euro 2, and later euro 3.
Complicating things, but maybe not the issue.
Do you know what trim levels i should look for on a 160? Also spark plugs/ air filter, could they be the issue?
@@Exhausted-autos I'm an autoelectrician/diagnostic guy and I run an ECU repair business so I have half a clue :) Catalytic converters just act as a burning chamber for unburnt fuel/hydrocarbons... yours is working because there is not excessive HC's on the test sheet. Always start with putting your hand over the tail pipe while its running, you can hear the leaks, leaks always suck in air and screw up the lambda readings. Then check your basic sensors with an obd2 scan tool.....
1) TPS - does it go roughly from 0 to 100% when you press the pedal
2) coolant and air temp sensors - are they sane values e.g. the same as ambient air etc. not -40 degrees or something.
3) MAP - does it show proper vacuum at idle and atmosphere when the engine is running.
4) Lambda sensors - run it up till its properly warm, do the lambda sensor values "bounce" between 0.15v and 0.85v... pre cat is important and is used for fuel trimming
5) LTFT / STFT - are the fuel trims sane e.g. + or - a couple of percent.... if they are large like 10% is shows it is trying to correct itself excessively and points to a problem of some sort.
Hope that helps, these are very simple EFi systems on these old Rovers, good to learn the basics on.
That's great... I'll get the alternator sorted and do some tests.
The project is looking excellent; nice work on deleting the roll hoops. The fresh speakers were a great while-you're-in-there. Gotta have tunes!
Yep, much prefer it without them.... I now need to get them sold.
If you turn on the ignition (without starting the engine) and the battery light doesn’t illuminate it is most likely the alternator diode pack, a typical fault with no warning until the battery runs out of electrons.
Thanks for the comment, I tried as you suggested !!!
Shame about the mot but once the new cat is on it will sail through, great series as I used to have one in the same colour and really loved it, great little cars.
What a pity, but you're almost there. Alternators on the TF are not the strongest. Mine went back in 2011 when the car was barely 7 years' old and had only 40k on the clock. I put in a reconditioned one and it's held up since. Before you replace the cat, did you check the O2 sensor is working?
Thanks fire the comment, my cat and emissions video is imminent. The pre sensor is good.
Shame about the MOT, try cataclean. I use it on my MG’s before an MOT
if o2 sensors not working either pre or post cat then your emissions will be off.
Im not sure the post cat one feeds back.... but im going to be reinstalled it in any case. 👍👍👍
I don’t think you checked it was in neutral before trying to start it
what tf! never ever take your car there again, or ill give you a slap! 35 years in the trade mate, first 10 for austin rover, 10 with mazda and the rest with vauxhal ford and daf, i wouldnt trust one of those rapid fit clowns, to put my nuts out if they were on fire, never mind a car! get it to a main dealer, all the mechanics are trained and reach a standard. very rare will you find a main dealer tech, in a bodge it and scarper.
if the alternator is faulty, can be just disconnected and the mot resumed. alt is only there to supply electricity. it will run happily off the battery. same as if a door is sagging its an mot fail, take it off, they can not fail it. spot lights etc not working... fail, take them out, its a pass... simple.