Are You Using The WRONG Tires?
Vložit
- čas přidán 19. 06. 2024
- You need to tread carefully when choosing bike tires. Bike tires can mean the difference between a comfy and fast, spin or a slow, puncture-riddled ride from hell! Alex takes a deep dive into tire tech, covering the differences between summer tires, all-condition tires and winter tires.
00:00 Intro
00:45 Tire type
01:41 Tire differences
03:04 Rubber compound
03:34 Tread pattern
05:30 Tire Pressure
06:43 Price
07:40 Wrong tires?
Useful Links:
Everything Cycling. All In One Place 👉 www.globalcyclingnetwork.com
Visit the GCN Shop 👉 gcn.eu/gcnshop
Join the GCN Club 👉 gcnclub.com
GCN Training Plans 👉 gcn.eu/gcntp
Do you change tires when the conditions change? 🛞
Let us know in the comments below 💬
If you liked this video, be sure to give it a thumbs up 👍 and share it with your friends!
Watch more on GCN Tech...
📹 Best Inner Tubes 👉 • What Are The Best Inne...
📹 Watch our Editor’s Choice Playlist 👉 gcntech.co/EditorsChoice
📹 Watch the latest GCN Tech Show 👉 gcntech.co/GCNTechShow
🎵 Music - licensed by Epidemic Sound 🎵
Unbothered - Sarah, the Illstrumentalist
Getting Dawn - Dusty Decks
Crunchy - Timothy Infinite
Buenos Dias - Matt Large
slow breath - shamgang
#gcntech #gcn #cycling #roadcycling #roadbike #bike #bikes #bikelife #biketech #racebike #tyre #tires #tire #tyres #biketyre #biketyres #psi #wintercycling #pirellitires
📸 Photos - © Velo Collection (TDW) / Getty Images & © Sprint Cycling Agency
Brought to you by the world’s biggest cycling channel, the Global Cycling Network (GCN), GCN Tech is the only channel you need for all things bike tech - past, present and future.
Simply put, we’re obsessed with tech: we seek out and showcase the best in bikes, components, tech, accessories, upgrades and more from races and events, tech shows and product launches across the globe to bring you the best in road bike technology.
We’ve also got great maintenance videos to help you get the most from your bike; pro-bike tours from all the biggest races; special features and the weekly GCN Tech Show. We also take a deeper look into the future of cycling, apps, smart tech and virtual riding.
Join us on the channel and the GCN App to submit your content, vote on the latest tech and keep abreast of exciting new trends.
Thanks to our sponsors:
Pinarello Bikes: gcn.eu/Pinarello
Topeak Tools: gcn.eu/Topeak
Canyon Bikes: gcn.eu/-Canyon
Pirelli Tyres: gcn.eu/Pirelli
Orbea Bikes: gcn.eu/Orbea
Vision Wheels: gcn.eu/Vision
Wahoo Fitness: gcn.eu/Wahoo-Fitness
Park Tool: gcn.eu/-parktool
Elite Bottles: gcn.eu/EliteBottles
Whoop Fitness: gcn.eu/Whoop
Selle Italia: gcn.eu/SelleItalia
SiS: gcn.eu/ScienceInSport
Zwift: gcn.eu/Zwift
Shimano Wheels: gcn.eu/Shimano
DMT Shoes: gcn.eu/DMT
Silca: gcn.eu/Silca
MET Helmets: gcn.eu/methelmets
Strava: gcn.eu/strava
ShadowStand: gcn.eu/ShadowStand
Watch our sister channels:
Global Cycling Network - / @gcn
GCN Racing - / @gcnracing
Global Triathlon Network - / @gtn
GCN Italia - / @gcnitalia
GCN en Español - / @gcnenespanol
GCN auf Deutsch - / @gcnaufdeutsch
GCN en Français - / @gcnenfrancais
GCN Japan - / @gcnjapan
GCN Training - / @gcntraining
Global Mountain Bike Network - / @gmbn
GMBN Racing - / @gmbnracing
GMBN Tech - / @gmbntech
Electric Mountain Bike Network - / @embn - Sport
Do you change tires when the conditions change? 🛞
No. I have the Continental GP 5000 AS TRs, which are all-season tyres. Before these, I rode the GP 4-Seasons, which worked well for me all year round.
I ride Schwalbe pro one tubular all year round at 100psi in all conditions on the lovely British roads
You forgot to mention the stiffness/hardness of the rubber under different temperatures. Here in Switzerland we use summer and winter tyres on cars. It's recomended to change the tyres when the temperatures fall below +10 degrees Celsius and not to wait until the first snow turns up. The reason is that the rubber of summer tyres gets hard when the temperatures fall which means that they have less grip and slide even when there's no snow or ice, unlike winter tyres which remain softer at low temperatures.
And a bike has two times fewer contact points (well, we do our best not to experience fewer or more of them!).
I, for one, have three sets of wheels/tires: for winter (with studs), treaded for spring/fall, and slicks for a summertime.
I am not an expert by any certain imagination but as I’m watching the video and about the 3:00 minute 3:30 second mark they talk a little bit about the rubber. But probably not to the depth that you are relating to. Good point
he does tho.... the whole part about the tread pattern
10 celcius? Seems very high. It's only above that for 6 months in the UK.
@@bikeman123in Germany they often say 7°, so that's probably a limit which is not 100% defined.
You should be fine if you use them from Oktober or November to March (including March)
Good job Felix. GCN convinced me by last winter to started paying more attention to tyres and air pressure. HUGE difference.
Great to hear we've help shed some light on tyre pressure 💨 It's game-changing isn't it!
Studded tires here, only way to get a trustworthy grip on snow and ice.
I ride the centuratos which work great in all conditions for me and they are incredibly durable and puncture resistant. A highly recommended tire if you want a tire that simply works. They are not the fastest but they work very good in all conditions.
How do they compare to say gp 4seasons? I been looking at them for a long time as a replacement for my gp 4season tires. Are they equally as slow?
@@bonbonflippers4298 Cinturato Velo is a huge upgrade to 4Seasons in every way, enjoy.
@@bonbonflippers4298 I've had some cinturatos in a 32 and they were dreadfully slow, swapped for gravel kings slick and are much better but I also have some GP 5000 all season in 32, they are brilliant and close to regular gp 5000, expensive but deals are out there. If conditions are crap then I use the gravel kings as they are cheaper if you damage one, I use the gp5000as for drier winter rides, would imagine the Pirelli 4s would be similar
They are great bombproof option that still rolls well 🙌
Given the roads I ride on in Suffolk to and from work, I've gone to a commuter type Schwalbe marathon Plus for the winter vs the Pro One I use in the summer. It's noticeably heavier and less comfortable but I'm trying just as hard so I'm dealing with that as an increased training effect over winter that I'll feel the benefit of in summer.
A real Winter tyre is something like a Marathon Winter Plus that can cope with ice and snow. I don't need to use them much in Cornwall but essential on my commute mtb when going to and from work on an icy/snowy day. Run 25mm Conti Grand Prix's year round on the road bike as the BlackChili grips so well.
Hmmm. That's an interesting theory about the tread elements of the winter tyres being designed to produce additional heat in the tread. I would have assumed that, unlike automobile tyres, bicycle tyres do not warm up appreciably during riding because of the three following factors:
1. There is minimal power expended in the tyre casing because the speeds are so low
2. The whole surface of the tyre is exposed to cool air as it spins, thereby dissipating any heat in short order.
3. Bicycle tyres are long and skinny, so they have a much higher ratio of surface area to mass. This also increases the ambient cooling effect.
I had always thought that the primary purpose of tread elements and siping is to provide additional contact points to improve grip when rolling over paved surfaces that are laden with debris, such as snow, dirt, gravel, or road salt.
GCN, this topic deserves a part 2, and it would be nice to host a technical expert from one of the leading tyre manufacturers to weigh in on the differences between summer, winter, and all-season tyres. Finally, one of the questions that lingers after having watched this video is:
what are the appropriate temperature ranges in which each tyre category is designed to excel?
Indeed. Who wants to lose watts to heat in stead of speed? An important part of bicycle tire design is minimalising friction (=heat) : casing, compound, sidewalls etc. Why use a thread pattern designed for creating heat (=friction). And in winter or autumn with rain and wind your tire will never get any warmer than it’s environment.
The roads in this country are crap that doesn't help
I run the same all weather tyres all year long. But it's not like I'll see much snow on the Aussie east cost.
I'm a commuter/trekker cyclist, so I need a tyre with puncture protection I can count on. Something that can handle a range of riding terrains, rain or shine.
Some schwalbe marathon green guard or plus XD
@@ThomasNing I'm quite partial to Maxxis Overdrive tyres in 700x32
I change bikes, not tires.
Road bike with Pirelli P Zero Road for summer.
MTN bike with Vittoria Roadster for fall and spring.
Tacx Neo smart bike / Zwift for winter with no wheels at all.
I find knobbly but reasonably fast-rolling gravel tires to work best in winter use, such as Pirelli Gravel M’s. They work well on both dry and wet tarmac, and also in snow as well. Such tires also have a benefit of ”floating” on top of sand and gravel they use to grit the roads and which commonly causes punctures.
If you have a disc brake road bike that doesn’t have enough clearance for proper gravel tires, you could probably fit 33 mm cyclocross knobblies! Those work almost as good in snowy conditions.
Great video! I’ve always used different tyres for different conditions, particularly on my gravel bikes, but never realised just how important it is on the road, and didn’t realise why different treads patterns exist.
Tread and pressure is everything 🙌 Do you find your average speed lowers in the winter months?
@@gcntech Definitely slower in winter months, but so many other factors - it's colder, my winter bike is heavier, it's often slippery and I'm just cycling for general health, not specifically training so I take it easy. Incidentally, I cut my cycling teeth in the 80s when 21mm tubs were king and we used 18mm tubs at 120psi for time trials, so I've always been dubious about wide road tyres. I recently put some 32mm road tyres on my gravel bike for commuting and am stunned by how fast they feel! Definitely going to try some wider summer tyres next year on my road bike.
Hi Alex, thanks for an informative tyre vid. I never equated the tread pattern on a winter tyre with heat generation, although I'm very familiar with this concept from a Formula 1 tyre perspective in wet weather driving! So I'm now ploughing through the web looking for intermediate winter tyres compared to my current slicks!
Great to hear we could help! Let us know what tyres you end up with - No better feeling than finding that goldilocks tyre 👌
One tire is enough for all seasons mate
Alex, IMHO, this is the best video you have ever made. There were so many real world takeaways in this video especially the importance of tire pressure.
I use 28mm Conti GP5000 in the summer with TPU tubes and 32mm tubeless Pirelli Cinturato Velo in the winter!
I use a all season tyre from Continental. Not too fussed about rolling resistance. The roads and weather in the West of ireland constantly change, need something that is good for all out comes.
I don't change tyres by season on the road bike but I always do on the gravel bike. I run Schwalbe All Rounds in summer and Panaracer EXT+ for extra mud clearance and puncture protection in the winter
Thread patterns also make it possible to move dirt snow etc to make good contact with surface below just because you're showing patterns that would do very little in that regard doesn't mean other ones don't provide extra grip. So while aquaplaning is not a possibility as it is when pressure from the weitht is matched with water ingress creating pressure up. The decrease in effective pressure is observed at lowered speeds effectively reducing friction. Not to the point of aquaplaning but it does affect traction.
The equation looks to get tricky for me, since my go-to bike is in between gravel and road and I tend to do the gravel tire in winter and the road in summer.
I keep the cold weather tires on an older heavier set of wheels and my lighter faster tires on a newer lighter set of wheels.
And it does feel like two different bikes when I change them.
This also lets me ride slightly easier gears in the winter than the summer without making another change.
Your winter tires are for people that live where there isn't much winter. Here winter means snow, slush, and mud and a real tread pattern is called for.
Specialized Sworks Mondo all season for the fall and winter are my favorite tires. Good durability and road feel are great in cold weather.
So yeah I rode my summer tyres in Australia today, got caught in a down pour... Back wheel slid out from under me in a roundabout. Amazing...
All seasons for me.Winter in Asia is like late summer or early autumn in the UK.
Run the Vittoria Rubino Pro for 3 season performance and when the days start getting short I swap the rear wheel for a trainer. I do swap out the knobby tires on the gravel bike for a semi-slick and ride that all winter.
I don't change my tyres I just keep two sets of wheels and ride a gravel bike - Xwide alu rims and Maxxis Ravagers for Winter, 50mm carbon hoops and Conti GP5000TLs for summer.
Oh and tubeless all the way so you don't have to worry about punctures.
Super video and awesome MET helmet Alex is wearing.
Just a testimonial, not an ad: On the mean streets of New York, 😉 the only tires that have survived a full year (~4000 miles) of use are Bontrager AW3 (all-weather, three layers of protection). Yes, they are heavy but still quite supple.
I use the Pirelli Cinturato Velo as my all season tire because they roll fast enough for my limited ambitions and they simply feel better on some of the rough road surfaces in my area... plus I'm too lazy to change tires between seasons.
Ohh I'm glad to read about the Pirelli Cinturato! I am quite certain I will get that tire next! I need a tire that can handle some gravel but is still efficient on asphalt!
Never knew that the tread was about generating heat in the rubber compound. After trying different tyres over the years, I feel like I’ve just hit the sweet spot with my Hutchinson challenger tyres I’ve had for the past 8 months. More of an endurance tyre, supple enough to feel good on long rides, but last really well and have good puncture protection. Also (for the non-Tubeless ready version anyway) very good value for money.
The Cinturato Velo 32mm is definitely my all year tire. The 10ish watt gain of a faster tire is just not worth the risk of puncture from the awful roads here. Plus, this way I never have a problem with gravel rail trails like I might with a thinner and lighter tire.
I have been eyeing these forever! Heard great things about them as a all round tires. How do they compare to gp 4seasons since that's what I'm comparing them to in terms of rolling resistance
@@bonbonflippers4298 I no longer have a subscription to bicycle rolling resistance but looking at the free data, at 40PSI (about 10PSI lower than I use), the Cinturato Velo 35mm loses 23.8 watts to rolling resistance. The 32mm should be a little bit less. The GP5000 All-Season S TR 32mm loses 16.3 watts to rolling resistance. The GP5000 S TR 32mm loses 12.8 watts. This is of course with their drum testing which doesn't always equate to the real world, but it's close enough that I'll take the Cinturatos any day of the week. They've been put through a lot of torment (including gravel paths, as mentioned) and keep going fine.
Cinturato Velos run at like 15-16 watts, there aren't any 10 watt tire upgrades to it.
@___Bebo___ that's fast! I'm riding specialized pathfinder pro 32c and I feel they're pretty fast already and according to the site it runs same watts at around 23watts.
@@___Bebo___ Except the data I quoted says it's about 11 watts difference. 🙄 Either way, I thought it was pretty clear I was estimating anyway by saying "10ish" instead of "10".
I put on a non puncture tyre on in the Autumn as the rain came in… more puncture debris gets onto the roads , and so far no punctures
Going into the video, my opinion was.. always use gp5000 race tires.
We got our first good dump of snow this morning. I'm literally going to install my Continental Contact Spikes, on my Winter bike, right now!
Very cool. I have always wanted to be educated about these differences. GCN does a great job of selecting video topics... does Alex get the credit or are topics selected by committee or something?
Interesting video, I learned something about that tread pattern. However, I wouldn't call the tires in this video "winter tires" since, in *actual* winter conditions, I wouldn't want to ride slicks. Right now, we have snow and ice, and a few days ago considerable portions of my commute were muddy. I'm currently running a 32mm semi-slick tire (SpeedKing) on my do-it-all randonneur, and even this tire is too sketchy for me in snowy conditions.
Long story short, I would have liked a breakdown of which tread pattern actually kinda works in winter (and I wouldn't go as far and put spike tires on my bike). Maybe in another, cyclocross-related video.
I think he is generalising as different countries have different winter conditions, we don’t get much snow in the UK anymore, we do get a bit in the North and when we do get snow the whole country comes to a stand still 😬
You forget that this is the Global Cycling Network, and the globe is the south of England. The globe does not include those of us whose nationality is foreigner. For example, the assertion that winter is the "wet" season, even though summer has higher rainfall in over 80% of the inhabited Earth.
Great note! We could always do a follow up video on how perhaps a knobbly gravel tyre would work in winter? Let us know if you would like to see more?
Just over 20 years ago I remember buying a tire because the side wall was yellow. I had a beautiful banana yellow Eddy Merckx and the yellow side walls on the tires really make it look fantastic. However the yellow side walls was the model of this tire for dry weather. This was when super narrow tires were just absolutely perfect, I think I had about 90 psi in them.
So on one Sunday ride on the very edge of London, I was coming down this descent at about 35 mph on a dual carriageway and it was raining so hard that the rain was bouncing back up and it really was hammering it down so hard that there wasn't time for the water to run off.
So I got to a big roundabout and the bike just slide away from me, and I was sliding on my arse on the floor around the round about (I needed to go straight on anyway). That was a painful end to the ride, I was able to jump on a tube train with holes in my Lycra and blood coming down my leg.
And the lesson is, bike brands need to make sure that when the colour of the side wall matches your bike and everything looks fantastic, it's also the right type of tire.
Maybe on those winter tyres, the tread is to warm up the compound. But I don't buy it when you say more substantial treads don't clear water. Sure hydroplaning won't happen until 100kph, but what about when braking or cornering? Intuitively, I find it hard to believe it doesn't help.
Treads on road bike tyres do not help with aquaplaning - your tyre pressures are high and you don’t ride fast enough.
All tyre rubber compounds have an optimal operating temperature…
A softer compound tyre is most likely to harden in low temperatures and provide very little grip.
It’s cuz smaller contact patch than cars don’t hydroplane.
Alex, in one of the close up shots you can see the rotation arrows embossed on the tire. I always look for them and make sure I mount the tire correctly. My thinking is that if rotation direction was not important, why would the manufacturer emboss arrows on the tire?
The discussion about tread pattern should be revelatory for most people, it was for me!
I change the bike and the tires another great informative Tech show!
Alex, I nominate your fender + non-counterfeit GCN Ass-Saver for “Hack forward slash Bodge of the week”
I’ve found Continental HardShell to be great on dodgy Yorkshire roads in winter.
On the MTB, it‘s completely normal to ride a softer compound at the front and a harder one at the back. Do you think we will see that on the road bike soon?
I notice that my GP5000 were a bit slow and got lots of punctures during the winter. last year I switched to conti Gators skin for winter and it works very well with the right amount of pressure And got myself Pzero for the summer ahead for Black Friday 😊
Do you also run a lower pressure in winter? Or perhaps look to go wider? After all comfort is key 👉czcams.com/video/zv8TgTbfUqs/video.html
Definitely low pressure in the winter, I have 28 gator skins and so far I have no problems
I'm still finishing off the last of my GP 4000's, because I bought lots when the 5000 came out and the 4000's were on clearance. Most of the year, I use the 4000's, and switch to GP 4 Season when the temps start getting down to freezing. I found that near freezing, when I hit a bump with the 4000's, the back wheel slides a bit down the camber of the road before catching itself, which is a very uncomfortable feeling. It will be interesting to find out if the 5000's are better in cold weather.
There are other slip conditions than aquaplaning. Tread helps with greasy roads, dirt, etc not because it's heating up the compound, but because it can grip through the loose stuff
Minus 10c here in the Cairngorms this morning..... Kickr and Zwift it is then, both windows in the pain cave open though to do my December Gran Fondo on Strava..... Kinda lost the desire to go out and skite around on snow and ice risking breaking something....
Live somewhere warm and sunny, roll on race tires all year 😊
Studded tires best winter tires
Once you install the GP5000 clincher it's not coming off, so I'm stuck with it. I'd need another set of rims which I don't want to buy. Thanks for the vid.
GP5000 tubeless in 30mm width. All year round including racing. Wam bam thank you mam.
I only have budget and space for one bike, I use it for the vast majority of my transportation, I ride gravel, and I live in California. I've worn out a few different rear tires, but I've had the same Conti Contact Travel on the front for three and a half years, because it just keeps going. Seriously, I literally got a fatigue crack in my rim and had to replace the wheel, and the old tire came right across and has just stayed as bulletproof as ever. This is an ad for the Continental Contact Travel.
My gravel bike is my winter tire of choice assuming it's warm enough to ride outdoors where I live. Otherwise there's no tires needed on my Wahoo Kickr.
Oy. My good sir, while I haven't tried Pirelli bicycle tires, I'm sure they're great. I have, however, ridden Pirelli motorbike tires and they are class leading in many performance categories. Continental bicycle tires are HARD TO BEAT, though; GP5000 are *almost* the mythical do-it-all tire: very fast, very durable, good lifespan, excellent balance of traction in different conditions.
I love the mudguards on Alexs' bike. For some reason, I envision the Wizard of Oz witch on her bike... getting snatched by the tornado and pedaling through the air.
I use Schwalbe Marathon tyres on my E-bike. My E-bike is an Flyer T8 Deluxe build in 2012.
The tyres are 37mm wide and I keep them at 85 PSI (5.86 bar). In winter and summer.
These tyres are all-condition. And they can run for 19000 km before I have to replace them. Althought It can change depending on the surface of the terrain.
And if I ride on the right pressure. For the rest they run like I'm riding on an smooth even surface. They are not the lightest. And they're not silent.
They run pretty good and price is around €42,99 Euros. The marathon E-plus is the best I can use but, it's price is €53,99. Too expensive for me.
i would like to know a bit about gravel type of tyres, I feel safer with them, especially since the roads in my country are just terrible.
The only thing I want for winter is grip. I'm using Gravelking sk+ 38mm. Can someone suggest something with better cold weather grip - let's assume no leaves, but cold road surfaces - I think the little knobbles on the Gravelkings aren't necessary for what I'm doing.
Nice video once again Alfie, loving your work. Strange one on the pressure calculators though, I had one recommend 90 psi (about right) and another said 35 !! Strange.
90 PSI?! Are you running 23mm tyres? That's going to be damn uncomfortable, really recommend going to 28mm and taking down your pressures to 55-65 PSI. Will be a lot faster too.
@@swecreations 25mm, 83.8 kg rider plus bike, inner tubes. Never had a comfort issue to be fair.
@@johnstrac Would definitely look at 28mm tires if you can fit them on your current rims, everyone on the tour is using them now as they're simply faster with their lower vibration losses. The fact they offer better comfort too is the biggest bonus for us though.
Would personally even run 30 or 32mm just because the difference in speed is within margin of error but the comfort certainly isn't, but if you don't care about comfort 28mm is certainly better.
It makes sense you're running such high pressures on 25mm if you're a heavy rider though, would definitely test out 80 or 85 PSI though, especially if you're running on rougher asphalt as there it'll likely be slightly faster too.
@@swecreations acknowledged thanks, my Summer bike will take 28mm ( a friend has the same bike) but not sure on the Winter one. I will have a think though.
@@johnstrac Glad to hear I could be of help 👍
#ackgcntech I have a PlanetX Uncle John gravel/CX bike which I would like to ride trough the danish winter and therefore fit a set of mudguards… But the bike is fitted with canti breaks and I find it at bit troublesome to find some mudguards that fits the frame and still can be fitted or removed rather quickly so I don’t have to have them fitted on the days with dry and sunny weather…
Can you recommend some good and affordable mudguards that goes with canti breaks and 38c wide tyres??
I ride tubulars (tubs)…I never have to change the tube, even in winter😅
? Why would you need more puncture protection in winter? Is there more broken glass on the streets? Or because of the spiky ice? :-)
More wet roads and potentially sharp gravel. Depending on where you live, of course.
I know what you mean, it certainly doesn’t feel obvious. I can attest to it though, from my own experience at least, whatever the mechanics are of what’s going on, it definitely does manifest harsher wear on the tire and more puncture potential, just from my experience though YMMV
@@pakelly99Living in Switzerland I've been cycling at minus 20 degrees Celsius and have not experienced any increase of punctures. Gravel doesn't get sharper/pointier when it's cold, I guess.
However cycling through the desert at plus 50 degrees celsius caused half a dozen punctures on 1500 km.
I'll take the reduced punctures, 'cause I don't want to kneel on the side of the road on the snow to change a tube.
Conti four seasons. If they had of been around in the last century I would have raced in road races/crits and trained on them. They are a go everywhere tyre.
I have a set of Continental indoor trainer tires I use for rollers. These things are stiffer than a credit card. These might generate F1 levels of heat if you’re Sir Chris Hoy.
42mm Pathfinder Pro year ‘round on gravel and tarmac!
What’s the flap situation in those guards?
I can see a flap at the top of the rear?
Eliminates any rooster tail of spray. REALLY considerate for bunch riding in le wet.
I use summer race 28c tyres all winter even on my road commuter I use for 300 miles a month. Winter tyres are completely pointless.
Real winter tyres will have metal studs in and I use these on my specific winter commuter bike on days when it’s snowing and/or icy.
on a side note to this... anyone know what brand the extensions used on the sks mudguards are?
It’s a gcn ass saver
Defenitely not. Need studded to just turn in winter, and don’t need the grip when it is 0-10*C, so just run my summer tires then
I ride studded sometimes and 4mm centre thread gravel tires on snow and packed snow the only difference is when there's ice with no snow cover. Also when it's 0-10 different rubber compound of a winter tire makes a lot of difference in grip.
I think the Continental Ultra Sport iii is a "training tire" (can't have enough categories, lol) but is awesome, spring, summer, winter, fall, Those added puncture resistant layers feel awful to me,
? Youve not made yourself clear. Are they awesome or awful?
yup, the Continental Ultra Sport III are the tyres I have in mind for future all year round use, until I completely waste my current tyres. Still since I want an all year round tyre, I am going to watch/read lots of reviews before coming to a conclusion, bur most likely my next tyres are going to be the Continental Ultra Sport III
@@bikeman123 Sorry, the Ultra Sport iii are awesome and don't have added protection, I tried 2 puncture protection, I think Bontrager and Vittoria, and just didn't like the feel as much, cheers!
@6:03... my mind is blown... very interesting
Just mounted my studded tires. There is ice everywhere and speed means nothing if I'm falling in every turn or can't stop.
I use the same tyres every season on my converted hybrid bike
The physics or the tread weight need to be addressed.
The inertia of a heavier tired will require less energy (watts) input to maintain speed. Once the mass is up to speed and in motion it will want to remain in motion.
The heavier tire will however require more energy input to accelerate and decelerate.
How can they be winter tyres without studs?
Profiles (grooves) make the tyres more pliable.
Constructors also have to use less material this way (weight).
These arguments I never hear in all the reviews and comments.
I might be thick, but I find some of the things you have to fill in on the pressure calculators a little confusing. The SRAM calculator asks you about the casing of the tyre being used. I have 3 bikes, all with Pirelli tyres, but I can’t see any info on the tyres, or the Pirelli website, as to what the casings are. P zero TLR, Cinturato Velo, and Cinturato Gravel H.
Is it safe to assume that the P zeros DON’T have reinforced casings, but the others do?
Non of those tyres have reinforced casing. That is like a thing for enduro or downhill tyres.
@@luukrutten1295 Thanks. Very helpful.
Well, there is no any winter tire or there is not just a good definition what you think is winter. I'am quite sure, that we have different opinion about that. BR from Finland.
I don't think the tread pattern is just for generating heat. It also increases grip when rolling over dirt and gravel.
Winter tyres in snowy areas should be a minimum of 2 inch width and knobby enough
Alex, please learn how to do Asian Squat
I currently have 240 studs per tire on my commuter bike. I ride to work on ice and snow and it’s great practice for your bike handling skills.
The rest of the year it’s GP5000/25mm until somebody comes up with a better product👍
How snowy are your commutes? 👀
@@gcntech not that much yet but we get more all the time. The ice is the bigger problem mixed with or hidden under the snow. Disc brakes aren’t that great in sub zero temperatures either😅
A thread pattern to warm up the tires? I find that hard to believe. So I will be losing watts to heating in stead of speed? Try warming up your tires in winter rain. The tire will just be as cold as the environment. You can’t do anything relevant about that.
I use the same tires year round and dont seem to see a diffrence.
Sounding a little stuffy out there on your bike :)
You don’t get much snow and ice it seems 😂
I use the same tire year round and I'm just fine with my bike.
Is it me, or does he always sound like he has just had a few pints? Hehehe.
Pogacar has a view on this subject 😂
Winter tyres? 🇦🇺 Never hear of 'em mate 🦘
Before anyone from Melbourne comes here to comment, that's your own fault.
Never been in Jindabyne or Mount Victoria?
#askgcntech. When and where should I set/measure tire pressure? When I pump them up in the basement at 64 degrees? When I take the bike outside at 50 degrees (or 80)? After I've ridden for a while and warmed them up? I haven't measured tire pressure under all these conditions, so I don't know how much it changes, but I'm pretty sure it does change. If a difference of 2.5 psi is critical, do we need to get a whole lot more precise about the conditions under which we set the pressure?
The right tire to ride is one that holds air pressure; the wrong tire doesn't hold air pressure. 😀
-Tim
The ability to retain air pressure is mostly determined by the inner tube, not the tire. Unless you're talking about tubeless tires.
no
I’m using the tires the last guy who sold me the bike had. /shrug
Right tyre: wrong tire.
Cinturato Velo and RideNow TPU tubes all year long IMO. Getting 5% tire feel upgrade is not worth it using tires that can still puncture, IMO.
Wassssupppppppp
Probably a pre-produced video. Otherwise the same nonsense as too often on this channel. Other then real jumps from 25 race to 35 with heavy tread small changes as shown don't make any difference.