A big thumbs up! Excellent vid brother!! I also viewed your vid on the front strut install. Very easy. I've done most of my suspension work and under the hood stuff. But never the "Shocks" on this car. ( I have the 2004 Max, 3.5) You do good work! I consider myself a "back yard Mechanic" for many years. As a result? I think that we're more on our game when it comes to our vehicles. We have more imagination when a problem arises. And we overcome and adapt. Thanks again for your great videos !! Ted
Thanks you just saved me over 600. Got some aftermarket complete quick struts Off Amazon $72 pair. I installed them . The part branded Topaz was really a rebrand of Duralast complete with the Duralast part number on the side of the strut and install card directions.
This seems so simple. I was thinking of how much it would cost for a mechanic to do it. But i will defintley give it a go after seeing this video. Thanks.
I knew it was this simple. I just wanted to watch the vid for some reassurance. There's another vid that's around 20mins long. After watching yours I just cant understand why that one is so long.😅. Good stuff bro💪🏾
Great vid, going to have to do this on my 2001 maxima , still going 243k. But it’s on its last legs. Son’s car now. Going to get rid of it soon but rear struts are soo bad going to have to replace them for safety in the mean time. Found a set. Of aftermarket ones cyber Monday sale for $72 for the pair of quick strut. Getting rid of it because to fix it right would cost over 10k. It’s been driven apx 40k on a failing transmission with 2 bottles lucus stop slip, a trans flush (3 drain and fill) and seafoam transtune. It’s also lost 4th gear
Nice, concise and well done video. I use CZcams to review a few jobs now and then just to see possible show stoppers. thanks for the good video. I have seen you on here regularly. You do a good service to a lot of DIY'rs
Awesome vids, I will have to do this soon:) the missing part of the instruction, how to remove the trim to get access to the top of the thing, yes its probably not that hard, but its always nicer to see before you do.
Turns out on i30's and certain maxima's the top of the strut is covered by some reinforcing framing they've bolted inside the body, it becomes much harder to reach the bolts but it can be done with a socket extension and squeezing your hands into the space, not comfortable but it works. Btw does the thing need realignment after this?
Great quick tutorial, thanks! I just picked up a 95 maxima se with a stick. It is a cool car, but unfortunately so much deferred maintenance and repairs lmao
Wow much easier and quicker then the front, great tip on the floor Jack. Thanks for the video. You said do both of the back, I have to replace the driver side front, the passenger side is still good. Can I get away with only replacing the one on the front? Thanks again.
CarsNToys I was using a breaker bar!!! I didn't have a pipe or a hammer at the time. I even tried using my small Ryobi impact drill(which I expected to so nothing for that bolt) and it did nothing but knock a little bit of rust off!! I'll go at it again when I have the time in a few days or so. Thanks so much for responding!
Went to the dealership they told me 700 for the rear struts to be replaced. 800 for the parts for the front strut. 200 for labor. After looking up prices for these they were really gonna get me good.
I work at a Dealership. What those fee include: Tax on parts, The Labor rate per Mechanic which is doing the work. Most Techs get paid differently due to their ASE certifications and experience. You are paying the Diagnostic fee to find what the “Actual” cause(s) is/are. It also includes the “Time” it takes to do the job. Dealerships/Shops follow guidelines as to how long each job can be finished within. Also, you are paying for the part(s) needed to be replaced, the technician having the Knowledge to understand what DOES and what DOES NOT need to be replaced. When a Service Writer and Technician are placing Safety needs at the customers Highest Priority; these are all signs of a good establishment. The main factor to Consider which is very much overlooked are: The Professional EXPERIENCE of these ASE Certified Technicians who have years and years of Dealership, Customer and Product knowledge. They also understand the Safety Concerns prior, during and after a particular job is finished. Having the Answers, knowledge and know how to each and every one of your questions/concerns are what you are paying for; which is irreplaceable. Everything about Alignments, knowing which bolts need to be torqued or not, what to or not remove, if, Trim Panels require “Other” tools (which the 15A Tech and other techs who do “Bumper to Bumper” have), knowing how to safely remove and put back everything without costing the customer or yourself at home (watching these videos) extra time and money to replace, do to lack of experience; is everything you are taking this to a professional for. As a Customer; you have the right and privilege to speak with your Technician. An honest technician will replace your Safety needs first then, let you know what is needed in order of importance of what has been Diagnosed and the initial cause of your visit. **Some service writers are NOT Human. They are there to make the Dealership/Independent Shop/Repair Shop profit. Businesses operate off of profit. However: as a Customer you always have the right and ability to say NO, ask for a second opinion, request another Service Writer to help you or Walk away and take your business elsewhere. Always do your research on Customer experiences, how the service writers treat you, how they speak with you, when or if they follow up with you and also how often are they following up with you, if they are keeping you in the loop with the Technician, Service Writer, Customer and even Service Manager during the process of repairing your vehicle. If, a Major service(s) needs to be done, are they helping you by spreading out a 30k/50k/90k/120k service within multiple appointments to save money or, are they DEMANDING you do a Brake Flush, Coolant Flush, Power Steering flush, Transmission Flush, Front and Rear Differential flush, Windshield Wiper Flush, Up-Selling front and rear brakes two tires and an Alignment when you only came in for your “Routine” 15k oil change, rotation, fluid top off, Bumper to Bumper Safety Inspection and possible Cabin Filter.
Quick question, the bolts on the top of my replacement strut aren't exactly lined up with the old strut so I can't get the bottom bolt through, in your video for the front struts you use a screw driver to twist the top bracket. Is it the same process for the rear struts if it doesn't line up?
Whats up bud, Love your videos BTW, but I have bad news, so my rear strut screw at bottom, the one you need a breaker bar for. Well the nut at tip of bolt which seems to be a lock nut that is mounted in a metal shaft, its spinning with bolt, it was turning good at one point but seized at one point, and its starting to round out.. What can I do? Cut bolt and replace and use a regular nut? of should I cut bolt and weld lock nut back in place..?
Anyone know if it matters which was the lower end of the spring place, or which side of the strut faces out. I didn't take a mental note when I took the original assembly out 🤦
Is it because I have a Nissan Maxima Station Wagon that mine is different? Can you help me find a video that will show the replacement of a 1986 Nissan Maxima Station Wagon Rear Strut?
you create some very helpful vids. can you possibly add one for installing an electric antenna on a '99 Max? I have the standard antenna mast, thanks for all your tutorial work.
Can you make a video on causes and possible fixes for a spark knock on the Maxima 3.0 ltr motor? I tried replacing the coil packs and spark plugs and nothing seems to be working to get rid of this spark knock.
@@CarsNToys the vid was helpful! Just read up on Maxima forums and the consensus is that Monroe quikstruts....well, they are a whole lot better than blown struts, but nothing like the original equipment provided. Also, it's usually better to reuse the old springs, as many "quikstruts" have different than oem weight, spring rate, and can vary when put under weight. Basically, measure from flat ground to frame all around, and if it's even, spend the labor on compressing and swapping springs, and go with kyb for a daily, and tokico 5 ways for performance.
A big thumbs up! Excellent vid brother!! I also viewed your vid on the front strut install. Very easy. I've done most of my suspension work and under the hood stuff. But never the "Shocks" on this car. ( I have the 2004 Max, 3.5) You do good work! I consider myself a "back yard Mechanic" for many years. As a result? I think that we're more on our game when it comes to our vehicles. We have more imagination when a problem arises. And we overcome and adapt. Thanks again for your great videos !! Ted
Thanks, Ted. I appreciate the feedback and happy to help!
Thanks you just saved me over 600.
Got some aftermarket complete quick struts
Off Amazon $72 pair. I installed them .
The part branded Topaz was really a rebrand of Duralast complete with the Duralast part number on the side of the strut and install card directions.
This seems so simple. I was thinking of how much it would cost for a mechanic to do it. But i will defintley give it a go after seeing this video. Thanks.
I knew it was this simple. I just wanted to watch the vid for some reassurance. There's another vid that's around 20mins long. After watching yours I just cant understand why that one is so long.😅. Good stuff bro💪🏾
this is good,almost went to a mechanic just because i was scared to do the spring,but this if comes already it's excellent i will do this next week.
Mungbeanz100 bro it's really easy if you have the tools. very easy
Great vid, going to have to do this on my 2001 maxima , still going 243k. But it’s on its last legs. Son’s car now. Going to get rid of it soon but rear struts are soo bad going to have to replace them for safety in the mean time. Found a set. Of aftermarket ones cyber Monday sale for $72 for the pair of quick strut.
Getting rid of it because to fix it right would cost over 10k. It’s been driven apx 40k on a failing transmission with 2 bottles lucus stop slip, a trans flush (3 drain and fill) and seafoam transtune. It’s also lost 4th gear
Nice, concise and well done video. I use CZcams to review a few jobs now and then just to see possible show stoppers. thanks for the good video. I have seen you on here regularly. You do a good service to a lot of DIY'rs
Thank you. Glad to help. Cheers
Great video and explanation! A must even if you are going to a mechanic to do this job. Thanks!
Awesome vids, I will have to do this soon:)
the missing part of the instruction, how to remove the trim to get access to the top of the thing, yes its probably not that hard, but its always nicer to see before you do.
Turns out on i30's and certain maxima's the top of the strut is covered by some reinforcing framing they've bolted inside the body, it becomes much harder to reach the bolts but it can be done with a socket extension and squeezing your hands into the space, not comfortable but it works.
Btw does the thing need realignment after this?
Thx for giving moments too in this tutorial! :) I wrote them down as I don't have any repair manuals...
Happy to help.
Great quick tutorial, thanks! I just picked up a 95 maxima se with a stick. It is a cool car, but unfortunately so much deferred maintenance and repairs lmao
Wow much easier and quicker then the front, great tip on the floor Jack. Thanks for the video. You said do both of the back, I have to replace the driver side front, the passenger side is still good. Can I get away with only replacing the one on the front? Thanks again.
Oh yea the rears are quicker for sure. If the passenger side is okay you can get away with it in the interim
This setup is SO much better than the new ones. If you bought a new Nissan just tie a noose.
old school cool
Man, you made taking off that bottom bolt look easy. I tried for half hour on each and they wouldn't budge
Use a breaker bar. It makes all the difference.
CarsNToys I was using a breaker bar!!! I didn't have a pipe or a hammer at the time. I even tried using my small Ryobi impact drill(which I expected to so nothing for that bolt) and it did nothing but knock a little bit of rust off!! I'll go at it again when I have the time in a few days or so. Thanks so much for responding!
great information and video saved me money....thanks you very much....
+Derrick B cheers
nice video
Went to the dealership they told me 700 for the rear struts to be replaced. 800 for the parts for the front strut. 200 for labor. After looking up prices for these they were really gonna get me good.
I work at a Dealership. What those fee include: Tax on parts, The Labor rate per Mechanic which is doing the work. Most Techs get paid differently due to their ASE certifications and experience.
You are paying the Diagnostic fee to find what the “Actual” cause(s) is/are. It also includes the “Time” it takes to do the job. Dealerships/Shops follow guidelines as to how long each job can be finished within.
Also, you are paying for the part(s) needed to be replaced, the technician having the Knowledge to understand what DOES and what DOES NOT need to be replaced.
When a Service Writer and Technician are placing Safety needs at the customers Highest Priority; these are all signs of a good establishment.
The main factor to Consider which is very much overlooked are: The Professional EXPERIENCE of these ASE Certified Technicians who have years and years of Dealership, Customer and Product knowledge. They also understand the Safety Concerns prior, during and after a particular job is finished.
Having the Answers, knowledge and know how to each and every one of your questions/concerns are what you are paying for; which is irreplaceable.
Everything about Alignments, knowing which bolts need to be torqued or not, what to or not remove, if, Trim Panels require “Other” tools (which the 15A Tech and other techs who do “Bumper to Bumper” have), knowing how to safely remove and put back everything without costing the customer or yourself at home (watching these videos) extra time and money to replace, do to lack of experience; is everything you are taking this to a professional for.
As a Customer; you have the right and privilege to speak with your Technician. An honest technician will replace your Safety needs first then, let you know what is needed in order of importance of what has been Diagnosed and the initial cause of your visit.
**Some service writers are NOT Human. They are there to make the Dealership/Independent Shop/Repair Shop profit. Businesses operate off of profit. However: as a Customer you always have the right and ability to say NO, ask for a second opinion, request another Service Writer to help you or Walk away and take your business elsewhere.
Always do your research on Customer experiences, how the service writers treat you, how they speak with you, when or if they follow up with you and also how often are they following up with you, if they are keeping you in the loop with the Technician, Service Writer, Customer and even Service Manager during the process of repairing your vehicle.
If, a Major service(s) needs to be done, are they helping you by spreading out a 30k/50k/90k/120k service within multiple appointments to save money or, are they DEMANDING you do a Brake Flush, Coolant Flush, Power Steering flush, Transmission Flush, Front and Rear Differential flush, Windshield Wiper Flush, Up-Selling front and rear brakes two tires and an Alignment when you only came in for your “Routine” 15k oil change, rotation, fluid top off, Bumper to Bumper Safety Inspection and possible Cabin Filter.
That’s why they call it a stealership
Your video makes it look so much more simpler than it was. Lol.
Great information, thank you for posting and sharing, gave it a like.
Glad it was helpful!
How do you remove the trim panels in the trunk without damaging them?
What do I do if I try to loosen that bolt and the head of the bolt snaps off and the screw part stays in
where did you find the complete rear assembly? None of the local auto stores seem to have the complete assembly lol
Amazon or ebay motors.
Quick question, the bolts on the top of my replacement strut aren't exactly lined up with the old strut so I can't get the bottom bolt through, in your video for the front struts you use a screw driver to twist the top bracket. Is it the same process for the rear struts if it doesn't line up?
Turn the top part of the strut with a long screw driver until aligned evenly while the side by side
Thank you!
+duct tape king Glad to help.
Whats up bud, Love your videos BTW, but I have bad news, so my rear strut screw at bottom, the one you need a breaker bar for. Well the nut at tip of bolt which seems to be a lock nut that is mounted in a metal shaft, its spinning with bolt, it was turning good at one point but seized at one point, and its starting to round out.. What can I do? Cut bolt and replace and use a regular nut? of should I cut bolt and weld lock nut back in place..?
I'd either try a good set of vice grips and attempt to remove the nut. Or, you can try to cut off the nut. Then use a new nut and bolt for install.
Thanks brother! Gping to try vise grips. First if not going to cut that bad boy, since the bolt is 1.03 and nut is 1.26 at Nissan..
I’m having the same issue! It won’t move!
What brand/size and length of breaker bar do you recommend using for a job like this? Same question for torque wrench as well? Thanks
***** I like Craftsman but I've had good experience with Harbor Freight's breaker bar and torque wrenches as well.
Anyone know if it matters which was the lower end of the spring place, or which side of the strut faces out. I didn't take a mental note when I took the original assembly out 🤦
Is it because I have a Nissan Maxima Station Wagon that mine is different? Can you help me find a video that will show the replacement of a 1986 Nissan Maxima Station Wagon Rear Strut?
Great vid but what are the torque specs?
you create some very helpful vids.
can you possibly add one for installing an electric antenna on a '99 Max?
I have the standard antenna mast, thanks for all your tutorial work.
Hi Bill. I will try and post a video by next week. Cheers.
Bill Albe It took a bit longer to get to but the antenna vid is up. Hope it helps.
thank you very help full
Whay do you not use Torque of the wheelbolt /nut (120 Nm),
why not use torque on the wheel nut if you have the tool fore it,,
what brand of strut [shock]] you bought it carsNtoys good job
This is a Monroe kit.
whay not use torque tools too the wheels bolt too
Good job. CarNtoys .is necessary use of torque wrench ?
No. However, you want to make sure the fasteners are quite tight. Good luck!
@@CarsNToys ok . If of struts dont fit in the holes I need redrill another hole
????
I have a 2002 Infiniti I35. Is that the same as your Maxima? What if the mount is bad too? Thank you very much for your video.
It's very similar for many vehicles. Two up top and one bolt on the bottom.
CarsNToys,
Thanks!
Can you make a video on causes and possible fixes for a spark knock on the Maxima 3.0 ltr motor? I tried replacing the coil packs and spark plugs and nothing seems to be working to get rid of this spark knock.
Spark Knock? Rod Knock possibly. Lifters. Definitely needs a professional diagnosis. Dealership.
Run 93 octane
will those shocks fit on a 03 infiniti m45?
what year is your nissan?
'97
WHAT YEAR.???? important fact should be right up fronts
Which way do I loosen the passenger side 17mm strut bolt . The bottom big 1 up or down ???????
Right = Tightens
Left = Loosens
I would use my air impact gun and laugh
How much did that shock (strut ) cost for both sides ?
+Jose Quintana mmm I don't remember but it wasn't that bad. You can purchase off amazon/ebay
What year maxima is this? I have a 97.
1997 as well.
Shoulda gone with the kyb or tokico!
Thank you. Had no issues with Monroe.
@@CarsNToys the vid was helpful! Just read up on Maxima forums and the consensus is that Monroe quikstruts....well, they are a whole lot better than blown struts, but nothing like the original equipment provided. Also, it's usually better to reuse the old springs, as many "quikstruts" have different than oem weight, spring rate, and can vary when put under weight. Basically, measure from flat ground to frame all around, and if it's even, spend the labor on compressing and swapping springs, and go with kyb for a daily, and tokico 5 ways for performance.
👏👏👏✌
You need to get better lighting it looks horrible.
Yes, this was many years ago. Thank you.
Most of Maxima have same rear strut problem rust right out
Terrific car. Just rust, rust and more rust.