2002 Polaris Magnum 325 carb rebuild
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 07. 2019
- Today at JWS we continue our instruction videos with a complete disassembly, cleaning and rebuild of a CV (constant velocity) carburetor commonly used across the powersports industry. This particular carb is a Mikuni and comes factory equipped on many Polaris ATV and SxS models. This is a long video to watch but carburetors take time, taking your time and doing it right will pay for itself when it runs the first time. If you have any questions regarding this video you can ask them in the comments section, on our website www.jwsrepairservices.com or even Facebook, just search for JWS Repair Service. If you like this video please hit the like button, share the video with your friends and family, and subscribe (it's free). It really helps us build our channel to bring more content that I have gained in over 27 years in this industry. I started in a multi-line dealership and now have been operating my own service center for 10 years. Thanks for watching! Have a great ride! Here is the link to All Balls Racing that makes the kits www.allballsracing.com/ make sure you know your year model as there are different kits for different years even with the "same" machine.
- Jak na to + styl
Awesome video! Your instructions were spot on. It was like you were right beside me the entire time. Same thing happened to me with wrong size jet so I used the old one. Thanks again!!!
I'm glad it helped! Have a great ride!
Thank you I own a Polaris Magnum 325 and it’s having carb issues I’ll watch this again as I take my carb out and look for bad issues and replace as needed or replace the whole carburetor
I actually went ahead and ordered a carburetor and the kit for it plus a fuel pump just to ignore headaches because I do not have a ultrasonic sonic cleaner but definitely I can still inspect the old carburetor and clean it the best I can with the tools and cleaners I have but once again thank you for your video posting
Excellent, thank you very much!
You are welcome!
Thank you for this, it saved me a large repair bill.
Glad it helped
A very good job buddy
Thanks 👍 I hope it helped.
Mate, you should be a movie star. I've never attempted a carb anything in my many years of having 2 brothers that have always been petrol heads. decided to give my 2002 Magnum a bit of a love up, being locked up over the covit 19.
You covered every aspect line for line. give yourself a pat on the back.
Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad it helped. Stay safe!
This was just what I needed. I feel confident that I can rebuild the carb now. I do need the rebuild kit and will send an email for that. Thanks for making this instruction video.
Thank you! I'm glad it helped. I sent you an email and when I did I realized that I could have included the link to All Balls racing for the kits. I recently discovered that although our kits through our distributor are branded " Quadboss ", they are actually manufactured by All Ball Racing out of California.
Very helpful, I couldn't have figured it out without the good video.
Thank you for the kind words. I am glad it helped. Please consider subscribing if you haven't already. If you have any suggestions of what you would like to see, please feel free to leave those in the comments and we'll try our best to make that happen. Thanks for watching!
I needed to know what the base setting was on the pilot needle. Thanks!! Even with a mint looking carb my idle jet was plugged. Great video, cleaned my pilot jet , set needle 2.5 out as you said.. idles perfect now.
Outstanding! glad I could help! Those pilot jets are tiny and it doesn't take much to plug them. Thanks for the feedback!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC You ain't lying about a tiny idle jet! Started it this morning.. 20 degrees out. Full choke. It started and ran fine but wow I had to crank it probably a full 20-30 seconds. Is that normal?? Seems like the fuel pump might not be doing all is should ya think?? It only sat overnight.
@@govsux1 No that is not normal, check your fuel pump and all of the hoses for wear. The pump is sealed so it's kinda hard to tell is it's worn or not, but if there is any sign of fuel in the impulse (vacuum) hose or the nipple on the pump, then the pump is bad. The carb bowl SHOULD have had enough fuel for it to start instantly and then the pump will maintain the level, have you checked compression? You MUST have 100 psi (checking with throttle wide open) for it to start and idle properly. The colder it gets , the more things shrink and clearances get wider.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC No I haven't checked the compression I don't have access to a tester at the present time. However this machine was adult owned. Rarely used. It has 374 hrs!! Like new. I agree the bowl should have fuel ready to go. Choke is working. Brings the idle speed up as it should so I'm assuming it's giving it a richer mixture too... If the idle needle setting was too lean would that perhaps be the issue?? I set it at 2.5 out. Not easy to get at on this machine gotta love the engineering on that one eh?? Almost impossible to get at. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it!
@@govsux1 You can certainly try bringing that mixture out more, 2.5 is the initial setting, we normally tune them richer or leaner from there. You can safely back it out (richer) 2 more full turns before you have to worry about it falling out.
A very good video...thanks !
Thank you! Be on the lookout for a couple of new vids coming soon, from replacing shock bushings, suspension bushings and ball joints to multi-cylinder carb clean and another CV single carb job from a Yamaha Grizzly.
Good video
Thanks for the visit
Thank you. Good vid
Glad you liked it!
very helpful . thumbs up
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
This is a great video. I've never done this before but recently got a 2002 Trail Boss 325. I don't know any service history. It does run and is in pretty good condition. It seemed like it had some carb issues so I decided to try to rebuild the carb. It would start with the use of the choke, it hesitated but it would idle after disengaging the choke, with a little patience and restarting. It would die as soon as I gave it throttle. I was able to gradually work the throttle and get it to rev up and went on a quick test ride to make sure there were no major drivetrain issues. All good, so I've dug into the carb rebuild. Based on my research, I thought it would have a factory 145 main jet. I looked up the engine code, the manual said either 145 or 120 depending on the engine code. Seemed like mine was the 145. I live and ride at 7,500'+ in elevation so I ordered a new 137.5 jet. When I opened up the carb, the jet that was in there was a 115, based on the markings. I'm not sure which one I should use. Could the 115 jet be the problem? The carb and jets didn't look too bad when I pulled it apart.
What I've found is that the factory calls for a 120 and that's sea level to 8,000 ft. If you're at 7500 ft, that is so close to the 8,000ft limit, it might not be a bad idea to use the 115 and just see how it runs. The higher the altitude, the thinner the air, the less fuel you can burn with the oxygen available, so when you go up, the main jets go down. That being said, what you are describing sounds more like a pilot jet issue. The pilot jet supplies fuel for starting, idling and running up to 1/4 throttle, then the main takes over. Double check that the pilot jet has a hole through it and is clean. I would also screw the pilot screw in a half turn die to the elevation, for you 2 full turns from seat, instead of 2.5. Good luck!
Thank you so much for the response! Hopefully I can start reassembling today. Still need to empty the gas tank and replace a couple leaky fuel lines before I'm ready to test it.
Nice job thanks you are good that helped
No problem 👍
Thank you for the valuable information.
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching! Be sure to like, subscribe (it's free) and share if you like this content. That way we can bring more videos like this in the future.
Dam good explaining and instruction. I am working on the same exact carb from a Polaris Trailboss 325. My only issue seems to be that the slide seems to be sticking in the up position and will not fall back down easily? I'm still working on that part.
A sticking slide can be caused by several things, number one being a dirty slide which is easy to correct, I have, on a few occasions seen these with damaged slide guides (the plastic piece in the center of the carb) I believe the damage to be caused by poor running a excessive backfiring which scorches and/or partially burns the guide. The bad news is, Polaris no longer sells the guide by itself. You can either try to correct the distortion or take your chances on a Chinese clone carb. Thanks for the sub and thanks for watching!
Can I use a carb cleaner to do the cleaning you did with the vat of commercial stuff and Maxima spray can you discuss? I purchased Valvoline Heavy Duty Carb and Throttle Body Cleaner in an aerosol can and was hoping to use that. Thank you. Great videos guys. Following these steps one by one and love the detail. Very much appreciated. Well done.
I don't really recommend an aerosol spray as it takes time to dissolve the varnish from all of the passages cast into the carb body and most aerosols evaporate quickly. If there is not visible varnish present you could probably get away with a spray if you disassemble the carb completely and isolate any rubber items from the spray. Thanks for watching and good luck!
After my 2000 Magnum 325 sits for an hour or so, gas slowly starts to drip from the overflow. It runs perfect, but should I go ahead and rebuild the carb while I have the tank off for valve adjustments?
That would be as great time to do it. With ethanol mandated as a fuel additive in most States, routine rebuilding is necessary as the ethanol attacks the rubber items and degrades them.
what do you do if the idle mixture screw has a brass plug in it?
You will have to VERY carefully drill a hole in the plug, thread in a course threaded screw and pull out the plug. Do not use much force on the drill, you will go through it and damage the top of the screw itself, the kit does come with a new screw, however, you do need to be able to get the old one out first. Thanks for watching!
This was great. Got that same kit for my carb. After reinstall it fired right up and idles great, but the second I hit the throttle it dies, unless I pull the choke. As I push choke to close, with throttle open it will idle down until stall. I took carb apart few more time to check cleanliness and it was good. What could be the cause?
Could be a couple of things. #1. A blocked or too small main jet. #2. fuel delivery #3. A vacuum leak preventing the slide from opening. The mechanical fuel pump on those machines can become dry after sitting for extended periods, not to mention the age of the part in general. I would verify that fuel delivery is adequate before proceeding any further. Let me know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks for watching!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Thanks for getting back. Machine has been sitting idle since 2013. I am finally in a position to work on it. Its a 2004 sportsman 600. So as you suggested I tested the fuel. With fuel line off and fuel selector to on I get a steady stream, but when I crank it over it doesn't pump any extra. Just stays a slow steady stream. Are these rebuildable? I see amazon has many for around 30 bucks
@@dannycross3808 Sorry for the late reply, they are not rebuildable, so replacement is necessary. You can try an aftermarket, we usually just go factory, that being said, it's just a low volume vacuum pump so not rocket science, the aftermarket's should work fine.
How do you take off the choke cable from the carb? I am stuck on that before I can dunk it
IN the event that the nut is super tight (it shouldn't be, but sometimes they are) you will need a box end 12mm wrench, preferably a cheapie from Walmart or Harbor Freight, you will need to grind down the box end super thin and cut a slot for the cable to slip through. This is the simplest and cheapest way. We use a purpose made Snap-On slotted socket that is available for the low low price of around $150.
You said the idle mixture screw base setting was 2.5 full turns. Then you said you use half turns and 5 was the number needed. In the video you only did 2.5 half turns? So which is it? 5 half turns or 2.5 half turns? The video is very helpful but wanted to get the mixture set right on my carb rebuild.
Thanks
Sorry about the confusion, I meant to say 2 1/2 turns total which is 5 half turns. Thanks for watching and I hope your machine purrs like a kitten!
@@LIVE3DPrinting Hopefully you can help me, finished the build with a Moose Carb kit, the kit didn't come with a new idle mixture screw or the o-ring and washer like yours did. I found an o-ring that looked close but not the exact size. Where can I find the correct one? I also have fuel leaking into my airbox! Not out of the drain on the bottom but the jet inside the carb. At the 1:00 minute mark of your video and again at 1:22 you can see the jet on the right side of the carb near the butterfly. Thats where I can see fuel running out of. Not sure what to do? Thanks!
@@CT-bi3ls The jet you are referring to in the throat of the carb is an air jet. If fuel is running out of that, then your carb is still flooding. Be sure to check the float level, if the fuel level in the bowl is too high it will flood into the engine and airbox. The kit I used is from Quadboss which is a house brand of Tucker Distributing, think of it as the O'reilly or Autozone of the powersports business. I have never been a big fan of Moose kits, they always seem to not include that one piece you need. The o-ring that is on the float valve seat is also very important, if it is damaged, missing, or the wrong size, fuel basically bypasses the valve and won't stop flooding until it runs out of fuel or the petcock is turned off. If you need a new kit, you can go to Tucker.com and click the dealer locator to find a dealer near you that can get you a Quadboss kit that is complete and probably around the same price or less than the Moose kit. Good luck, thanks for watching and let me know how it turns out.
@@LIVE3DPrinting I verified the float level was correct, replaced the seat and needle with the original one and used a new O-ring. I set the idle mixture sure out 1 3/4 turns. So far I have found no gas in the air box after a few short test rides? ATV runs great and starts fine. Not sure what the issue was but seems to be fixed so far? Thanks again for the help.
@@CT-bi3ls Awesome, glad it worked out. We have had on occasion where a new float valve just doesn't seat the first time fuel hits it. A tap on the bowl with the handle end of a screwdriver usually does the trick.
Thanks for the video. Great Job, very informative. I have a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 400 4X4 that starts good, idles good, but just no power. I can only go about 25 mph down the road full throttle. I adjusted the valves, changed spark plug, replaced fuel pump, checked the muffler for no restrictions, I checked the compression in the cylinder all seem to be in speck. Today I took the carburetor off and found a hole in the throttle valve diaphragm on top of the carburetor, could this be my problem that there is no power.
I see a new Polaris OEM part is 135.00 P/N (310732) Amazon is 24.00 have you any experience with these cheaper ones, or do you know a better place to get Polaris parts. What would you recommend I do?
Have a Great Day,
Joe G
Sorry I put the incorrect number. it should be P/N 3130732 diaphragm
Joe G
The slide diaphragm being holed or even melted is a common issue. If will most definitely cause the symptom you're describing. The issue lies in the fact that the butterfly is open and allowing air past the slide but the slide doesn't raise to allow the additional fuel to enter the venturi from the main jet. It would be better to shop for a diaphragm replacement rather than replace it with a complete Chinese clone. 3130732 is correct and Polaris has it listed at $135.49, Polaris does not allow dealers to sell for less than MSRP online, so unfortunately, that is the price you will have to pay to get it running right, unless you can find someone selling just the rubber part that you need.
Is the slide diaphragm needle supposed to b attached to the slide? Mine sits in the carb as the diaphragm slides , and is also leaking gas from the bowl. I need help please.
Yes, the slide needle needs to be attached to the slide. It is installed down through the center of the slide from the top (rubber diaphragm side). As far as the flooding is concerned that can be a few things, most likely is that the float valve is worn or stuck and in need of replacement, there is also an o-ring around the push in seat for the float valve. If that o-ring is missing or damaged, fuel will bypass the valve altogether and flood the carburetor.
Can you move the detent ring on the needle to the top vs the bottom to essentially make your quad a little faster because it's seeing a little more fuel?
It doesn't work that way, unless something else was changed first. Though usually requiring re-jetting altogether, changing to a different exhaust system can require more fuel to be added, same thing if the air intake is altered. From the factory they are carefully calibrated to provide a metered amount of fuel to a specific volume of air, they are factory tuned for maximum performance at those settings. We normally only ever lower the needle (raise the clip groove) to compensate for wear in the nozzle of the carb. When the nozzle becomes worn, but not enough to require replacement, it will cause a rich condition at idle, lowering the needle leans out the idle fuel mixture to compensate for this. Also, if you move the clip up towards the blunt (short) end of the needle, you are actually causing it to get less fuel. The standard setting for the needle clip is the middle groove.
While I was waiting on your reply, I went out and moved the clip, then took it for a spin. I clocked 59 on my GPS speedo, when at the middle grove that it was at prior I would only clock 53. I don't know how these things work and you seem incredibly knowledgeable.. do you know what would have caused my rig to clock a full 6 mph faster if moving that clip to the top causes it to actually see less fuel?
@@jamestishner What has happened is this, over time the slide needle moves back and forth inside the nozzle at idle and causes wear to the nozzle. It will wear to the point that the hole is no longer round and cause the machine to run extremely rich. It runs rich all the time anyway as Polaris tends to over-jet their carbs from the factory anyway. Lowering the needle helps cut down some of the excess fuel that would have been present. They have done a better job of jetting since about 2005 or so and now injects most of them. If you ever wondered why you hardly ever needed to use the choke on a Polaris vs a Honda when it's cold outside, that's why.
So what would cause me to run rich getting fuel at neck of filter idles great revs great in neutral under load at 1/2 to full throttle bogs and sputters
That could be several things of course, but the first thing I would check would be air flow. Make sure you air filter is clean and the airbox is installed, CV carbs do not like too much or too little air flow. If that is fine, I would check valve lash (clearance). I trust that there are videos that can walk you through that. I have not made one on that subject yet.
where can I get a rebuild kit or new carb for 1999 Polaris big boss 500?? been looking but scared to buy something that won't work right.
There is a kit available for the 1998-1999 Big Boss 500 from Tucker. Your local powersport dealer that is also a Tucker dealer can get it for you. Currently they are only showing 2 kits, 1 in the Illinois warehouse and 1 in the Florida warehouse.
I have a 2002 polaris trailboss 325 the diaphragm has a spot for a vacuum line yet I can find no line that would go there
I'm intrigued, there should be no vacuum line going to the slide diaphragm at all. Can you reply with a picture so I can see what you are describing please?
Hey there--any tips on why my trail boss revs really high at idle? I put a new carb on and I had to remove and re-intall the throttle and choke but didnt adjust it any--not sure why its acting weird...any ideas?
Sorry that you are having issues, first of all, what kind of carb was it? The crazy cheap ones you find on Ebay and other sites are "will fit" from China. They can work sometimes but they are designed to fit a wide array of machines and are usually not jetted correctly for specific applications. That being said, if it was a genuine factory replacement. I would try backing the idle screw all the way out and making sure you have at least 1/16 of an inch of play in the throttle lever. Polaris's have a runaway limiter built into the throttle assemblies and require a somewhat tight throttle cable but there should be just a touch of slack in it before it starts pulling the cable. Now if its an older Trailboss it has a 2 stroke, oil injected engine. Those have round carb slides that can be installed backwards. One side is slotted the length of the slide, there is a small stop made into the body that engages with it. the other side has a slanted wedge, that goes toward the throttle screw. If it is in backwards it will be 1/4 throttle or more at what would be idle. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching! I have some footage that I need to edit, but I'll have 5 new videos posting soon.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Your gonna laugh t this but I figured out the problem--when I was screwing the throttle cable into the carb I was unscrewing at the top where the throttle on the grip is---simple fix!
I have a Polaris Trailboss 325 with this same carb. At 25:57 there's a small brass (I think) screw with a small hole in the center in the upper right hand side of the top of that carburetor. Its air jet? When I removed the cover to mine that screw was out. So I put it back in but it wouldnt run. Take it out it ran. I'm having issues with it running too rich. It runs fine when I have my petcock closed but when I have the fuel on it bogs down and loses power especially at lower speeds. I was told it could be the float so I also cleaned that up and it appears to be working correctly. But it doesnt make sense to me why it wouldnt run with that screw in the top side of the carb. I've replaced all the fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel pump, petcock, and ran some 90 octane fuel with fuel treatment through it. Also new air filter, battery, and spark plugs. Fresh oil change and oil filter. Any help would be much appreciated!
The hole in the air jet is clear also. My thought would be that the hole isnt large enough?
Also would that screw not being in it cause it to get too much fuel? Like I said when I have the fuel line on it bogs down and loses power. When I shut the fuel off it runs great until it runs out of fuel obviously.
That is a jet to meter the air for the choke circuit, if it is running better with that jet out, I would say that the choke plunger, the o-ring on the choke plunger or the seat where the plunger seals to, is damaged. This is allowing fuel to come through the choke circuit even when the choke is off. Not a common problem, but I have seen it a few times and is usually caused by a poorly sealed choke asm. nut allowing moisture to get in there and corrode the surfaces. In a worst case...you will have to replace the carb, but for now you can get a plunger kit asm to replace what you have.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC thank you! I'll check that out. And let you know what I come up with!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Do you have any videos on removing the choke circuit or anything that goes over the parts you just said I need to possibly replace?
@@TheEnevitable Sadly I don't at this time. It is on the list of viewer suggested items though. We are a working shop and everything you see are repairs on customer owned, real-world units. I will see what I can do to get something together for you. I will be building a Yamaha Rhino 450 carb today, which is very similar to the carb on your Polaris. Keep an eye out for that!
I got a player's 402001 I'm taken apart is there anything under the pilot jet that looks like there's something in there in mine and I know there isn't I don't think there is it's a number 40 could you tell me if there's anything in there I don't think there is but it's hard to see down in the air with the light
Wow, talk to text is a little difficult to understand.. If you can type out your question I will be glad to answer it.
How do you get the throttle cable off? I am stuck at that.
There is a small , round brass piece under the plastic cover over the throttle cam, you will need to open the throttle and hold it open, turn the little brass piece until it lines up with the slot in the throttle cam, once you do that the cable end and the brass piece holding it will come out, don't lose the little brass piece! Once the cable is removed from the throttle cam, you unscrew the cable from the carb body, it needs to be screwed all the way in before you attempt to remove the brass piece by the way, or you won't have enough slack in the cable to remove the joint. (that's what the brass piece is actually called)
no, it is important to remove that plastic jet block, there are two orings on it that become trashed over time...
While you aren't wrong that there are o-rings on the plastic slide guide, I have never seen it cause a problem to NOT replace them, as long as you don't take it apart. The risk of breaking the guide, breaking the screws and finding the right o-rings to fit the guide are not worth the risk to me. I don't recommend it for my viewers because the possible reward is not worth the very real risk. Thanks for watching!
is the 330 kit same
I believe it is, but you can double check and order it from www.allballsracing.com . Thnaks for watching! Hope your machine is up and running!
The stock jet is a 120 but for some reason all of the aftermarket mains come with 145s. It'll run like crap with that big jet in there - use the 120. The 145 is for a 425 or some other machine
Stock jet size is either 142 or 145 depending on the year. I'm not sure what machine you are working on that has a stock 120 main jet, but it's not a 325 Polaris Magnum.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC I am indeed working on a 2002 Magnum 325. Its a Mikuni BST 31 carb and per the service manual it specs a 120 main, 50 pilot, 5F14-2 needle, P-2M needle jet, and a 175 air jet. These match the jets that I found inside my stock carb. I tried the 145 that came in a kit, and it bogged and smoked terribly. Ended up getting a bunch of gas in the oil. Switched back to a 120 main and it runs like a top.
@@mbakken11 Is this an international model? If so, that would be the difference. I don't have specs on units sold outside of the USA.
My 2002 Magnum 325 (I'm the original owner, in Northern Wisconsin) came with a 120 main jet. The Service Manual (PN 9917198) says it should be a 120.
But the User Manual Supplement (PN 9917013) says it should be a 145.
I purchased a Quad Logic carb, it has a
145 main jet. Bogs at throttle, spark plug was black. Took me forever to realize what was wrong, since I had a new carb and new spark plug. They couldn't POSSIBLY be the problem, right? Chasing phantom blocked muffler, worn cam, starved fuel, carb boot or air filter problems.
Finally looked in the original Mikuni carb and BOOM, 120 main jet.
That old 120 jet is going in tomorrow!
By the way, great video! Very informative and entertaining.
@@tomnorkunas9194 Curious, did the 120 work out for you?
How about if I don’t have one of the ring for the main jet on my 330 trailboss Polaris
I'm not sure what ring you are referring to, do you mean the brass washer that fits between the emulsion tube and the main jet or a rubber o-ring? Thanks for the sub!
JWS Repair Service LLC is the white color is going under de circle clip on the maint jet
Needle
@@juanmolina6 Oh OK I got it. You are referring to the spacers on the main jet needle. You should have 2, One of them looks like a hard white plastic 0-ring, that one fits below the circlip on the needle. The second is a larger flat white plastic washer with a slightly raised center section, the one goes on top of the clip and serves as a seat for the slide spring to rest on. You need both of those, if you are missing one, it will have to come directly from Polaris, they are still available 3130507 is the ring that goes above the clip against the spring, 3130752 goes under the clip on the needle.
JWS Repair Service LLC plastic ring on the needle I don’t have it on my
My magnum 500 goes sweet. Untill full Throttle sounds like it's starving do annoying. Cleaned out bottom half of carb havnt touched top half
If your slide is not opening all the way , you will get a stall at top end. You need to remove the slide cap and inspect the diaphragm and make sure the slide and needle are clean and moving freely.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC awesome I'll give it a look at tonight cheers
One of the best videos I've seen in a long time - truly an asset to CZcams - thank you very much!
Needa longer screwdriver
LOL
Why would you rebuild it when you can get a new one for around $35
LOL, you must be new here, you should read some comments and you'll find your answer, don't take my word for it, obviously you think I'm giving bad advice already. Good luck with Huang Fu Carburetor Co.
Sorry it's not I'm talk texting I have a Polaris 400 sportsman sorry stupid talk text