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My 1989 has power door locks front and rear. It has power windows in the front only. Mine is the XLT Lariat trim level.

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC mine is xlt lariat also. kinda surprising the rear locks are different than yours.

We normally reuse them as they aren't TTY or "torque to yield". Now if we have a case of a blown head gasket or head/piston impact, we do replace the bolts.

Easy peasy, I don't have a video specifically showing these lines but I can explain them. Your fuel line will attach in between the two center carbs, and then aluminum tubes supply fuel from those to the outer carbs. The vacuum line (should only be one used, cap the rest if they are drilled) will be on the #1 carb or left side, it will attach to the vacuum petcock, also known as a fuel tap. The 2 large rubber tees fit between the outer 2 pairs of carbs and are just vents, and then the hoses run down behind the carbs and below the airbox. Hope this answers your question. Let me know if you have any other issues. Thanks for watching! Ireland? Wow, I'm International!!!

I'm not sure why you would want to, if you want more power, a bigger carb is not going to do that. Realistically, the only way you can get more power out of an outboard, would be to put a bigger outboard on it. If there was another reason you wanted to swap it out, please let me know.

You can do what I did, go to a Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki and/or Polaris dealer and start as an apprentice, work your butt off, take advantage of any classes the mfgr's offer and if its a Honda dealer, work towards the much coveted title of Honda Factory Certified Technician, this will take a minimum of 3 years, Honda will not let you do it faster than that ( I did it in 3, some guys never finish, it's hard). Save as much money as you possibly can and when you feel the time is right for you, find a small, inexpensive building to lease and just do it. You won't become a millionaire on this side of the business, but you can live comfortably if you're good with numbers and know how to budget if your area is seasonal. In Texas, we are pretty much year round.

I doubt you have an issue with your enrichener circuit, your problem sounds like a classic case of clogged pilot jets. The high idle is because the idle screw has been turned in too far to try to get an idle but actually causes the slides to rise slightly allowing fuel flow from the main jets into the intake. Clean your carbs, set the idle properly and synch them and you should to go. This video czcams.com/video/LI1ecmr2eLY/video.html is a Suzuki but still an inline 4 and will be similar in many ways. I loved those 1980's Maxim's, I even had the privilege of throwing a leg over the Seca Turbo, awesome machine! Good luck and thanks for watching!

You are welcome!

Thank you for the kind words.

Take your time, if you notice I even placed a spring upside down in the video ( I corrected it before fully re-assembling ) but even I after 30+ years, still make ooopsies.

Thank you so much! My first Super Thanks!! Thanks again for watching!

If you haven't already, replace the float valve needle, part # F10265, note that they will be branded as Mercury/Quicksilver, sadly Force has gone the way of the Dodo. If you have replaced it and the float itself is floating and undamaged, you may have to find another carb body as the seat is not replaceable by itself and may be worn and not round. We unfortunately don't repair mailed in components as we have had issues in the past that the carb or whatever component may not have been the actual problem and the customer is very upset that they paid for it to still not run correctly and were mad at us even though it wasn't our fault, so we adopted a strict policy of providing advice, rather than direct service. thanks for watching!

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC your video gave me the confidence to remove my float needle and I discovered that a piece of the rubber broke off into the needle seat and made the float either get stuck open or stuck closed. I was able to force it out with my ryobi bike tire inflator. I reused the old needle since I didn’t know what part# would be correct and it’s working well as is. Now that I have the information I will gladly order a new one! Thanks, you save a lot of us by making this video and answering comments!

@@Kirk-md2he Thank you again for watching! I'm glad it was an easy fix! I have updated the part numbers and vendors in the video description to make part finding easier. Thank you for sharing your feedback and helping others to feel confident to "take the leap" and get that feeling of accomplishment when they hit the lake in their smooth running boat, that THEY fixed!

Lubrication and a 90 degree pick can help get those boots on.

75hp is the same carb. If it is leaking like that it can be that the float valve is no longer seating, or the seat in the carburetor itself is worn. The float valve is replaceable, the seat would require the carb body to be replaced. Thanks for watching!

Sorry, I'm a professional technician, not a filmographer. Just trying to share my knowledge to help the masses.

Press fork? The fork slider (silver part) and the fork seal driver (press tool) are both 41mm. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!

Hy. Do you know how long are the tube of forks? Thanks​@@JWSRepairServiceLLC

Glad it helped!

Thank you for the nice comments. I will tell you like I tell everybody, if the jets aren't completely clogged, Seafoam "might" work, but if they are completely clogged, nothing is going through them, including the Seafoam. Using Seafoam as a periodic additive is not a bad idea to help maintain a good running machine, but in 35 years, I have never seen a "miracle in a bottle" make a non-running engine run all by itself.

Typically what you're describing is related to the vacuum slides not opening under acceleration. The butterfly opens ( it's mechanical ) but the vacuum slide does not, this causes a lean mixture and lack of power. Check your slides closely for debris and the diaphragms for holes or tears. The slides should move all the way up and down without resistance, other than the spring of course. Also, be sure to check the main jet itself and make sure it is not restricted, that will also cause a lean condition and lack of power and acceleration. Good luck! Thanks for watching!

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC am i correct in assuming that if one is restricted from sliding, the other will not work simply because of laak of pressure from engine or would they both not work? Any ideas on how to avoid removing carbs and still correcting this possible issue?

The carburetor slides can and do work independently of each other, I have seen many cases where one works fine and the other doesn't. It would be great if these inspections and repairs could be done with the carbs on and not disassembled however, this is not possible, the carbs will have to be removed from the bike. Good luck!

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC so after the first stages of the job, the left side tube was off the carb.... i manualy moved the slide and it was free.... put the tube back on and will test it later today... As of now lucky break!! Your quick response was amazing and very much appreciated.... Thank you sir!!

I would check the pilot jet (low speed) really close, it could be idling off the slide, meaning that the idle screw is turned in too far to make it run at all. The slide should drop all the way down and bottom to allow the pilot jet to take over. That being said, the 200 cc series of engines for Honda were the first ones that I ever saw that would actually wear out a carburetor. The clearance of the body to the slide would increase causing a drop in atomization of the fuel, therefore causing the engine to run rich (sometimes VERY rich), I have replaced dozens of these carbs for that reason.

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Thanks for the info. I'm just about to start over again and rebuild with original parts cleaned up the best you can get it. Try that and test. Otherwise a replacement carb would be last option. I also made a video of what's happening. Check it out here. czcams.com/video/4oTFUzRZChk/video.html&ab_channel=Dirte883

Yes it is, they are identical. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. THANKS AGAIN Rick P

Thank you! Prairie 400's are solid machines and parts are still (mostly) readily available.

Wow, thanks!

The factory weight of 0W40 is the recommended oil for break in and operation alike. Thanks for watching!

I agree, however, CZcams doesn't work that way. I can only tag the video #shorts and CZcams will put it there themselves if they want to.

​@@JWSRepairServiceLLCsounds like the video needs to be in a vertical format to work from what I've heard

hangs on the top of the bottle and catches the drips. for the big bottles that have a spout

It does just what @roo1670 says. Pretty helpful as those spouts do tend to dribble from time to time. I was going to reply with a picture of it hanging off the bottle, but that doesn't seem to be an option.

Agreed, CZcams encourages cards but then they cover the video, they should pop up at the very end. I have asked about that and so far have received no response from YT.

That's the reason I chose NOT to show it as it could be a liability issue if someone hurts themselves or breaks the part(s).

What I've found is that the factory calls for a 120 and that's sea level to 8,000 ft. If you're at 7500 ft, that is so close to the 8,000ft limit, it might not be a bad idea to use the 115 and just see how it runs. The higher the altitude, the thinner the air, the less fuel you can burn with the oxygen available, so when you go up, the main jets go down. That being said, what you are describing sounds more like a pilot jet issue. The pilot jet supplies fuel for starting, idling and running up to 1/4 throttle, then the main takes over. Double check that the pilot jet has a hole through it and is clean. I would also screw the pilot screw in a half turn die to the elevation, for you 2 full turns from seat, instead of 2.5. Good luck!

Thank you so much for the response! Hopefully I can start reassembling today. Still need to empty the gas tank and replace a couple leaky fuel lines before I'm ready to test it.

You might not have screwed it up. There is a brass cap near the throat of the carb on the bottom near where it connects to the intake manifold. It should be round and protrudes from the body maybe a half inch or so. That is the pilot mixture screw ( they are capped off from the factory ), if the carb has never been cleaned, or properly cleaned, that factory plug could still be intact. If this is the plug you are talking about just gently drill through it, don't use much force. Once you get a hole all the way through it, use a coarse thread screw to remove the plug, after that, you should see a slotted screw head under it, remove that screw, along with the spring, washer and tiny o-ring. If you don't see the washer and o-ring, use the course thread screw and "screw" it back into the hole just a bit, it should grab the washer and o-ring and you can remove them and clean the port. Good luck! Thanks for watching!

That's a tough one, it really depends on the year, in the past I would have said Honda, nowadays? I would have to say Kawasaki. Yamaha's were great in the late 80's and 90's, they were TANKS. Sadly, I feel the newer these things are, the more fragile they are, and more expensive to fix.

That sounds like a classic clogged pilot (low speed) jet, it has a tiny hole and many think it doesn't actually have one, trust me, it does and it must have for it to start and idle correctly.

Thank you, I will keep an eye out for a "resurrection", we usually get some this time of year because of income tax refunds.

This will vary a TON depending on the model, but typically range anywhere from $1,500 to over $5,000.

You can’t get the whole pump anymore just all the parts. Which is Complete BS if you ask me.

Thanks for watching! Now, your slide is operated by engine vacuum but is in a "ported" configuration. What does that mean you ask? I'll explain, ported vacuum sources on engines are ones that supply MORE vacuum under acceleration rather than most of the other sources that will basically fall to zero when the butterfly opens. This is achieved on your engine by 2 small holes on the bottom (needle side) of the slide itself, as the butterfly opens, the engine attempts to pull an increasing volume of air into it, as this happens, high speed air rushes past those 2 little holes, drawing out the air above the slide diaphragm and creating an area of low pressure, this lifts the slide and the needle allowing the engine to get both more air and fuel. This system is very efficient and works flawlessly as long as, 1. The diaphragm is intact, it should be soft and flexible with no cracks or tears. 2. The slide is not physically hanging up in the bore of the carb, you should be able to push up the slide and it will return freely all the way to the bottom. 3. There are no vacuum leaks between the carb and the engine, this is usually a cracked or delaminated intake manifold (common on Yamaha) or a bad O-ring behind the manifold $. Lastly, if your engine will not start at all or is very difficult to start even under full choke and/or has a tendency to "run away" or rev very high by itself and then spit and sputter and die or idle very rough, many times with a noticeable back fire, you may have a tight intake valve that is not closing all the way or is closing late due to tight clearance. Check your valve clearances, Intake should be .004 and exhaust should be .006. Check those things and let me know what you find. We'll get your machine running again!

What about the main nozzle in the carb bore? It seems to be able to be replaced in either direction. One side is a square cut, and the other is cupped. The needle goes into the part I am referring to. Am I correct in the assumption that the cupped/parabolic relieved side goes into the bore?

@@albertferrara4139 The rounded end goes towards the emulsifier tube (main jet holder) facing down, the cupped part does go into the bore, otherwise facing up.

Lol i just went thru this pulled the carb like 10 times until i relized this and its almost press fit so you dont even think it should go in you have to have it right inline and pretty much press it in ​@JWSRepairServiceLLC

Thank you!

It is for draining when you will not be running it for sometime. With the "quality" of today's fuel, we suggest draining if you will not be running it for 3 or more weeks. thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

I'm assuming your machine is the 125 version. The 2 fuel lines both go to the tank, 1 is for On and the other one is reserve. If the tank has been replaced with an aftermarket plastic tank, you will only need one line as the petcock will be located on the tank itself, rather than the carburetor where it is now. If you do have a plastic tank with only one hose you will need to cap one side at the carburetor itself. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and good luck!

Good tip, we don't have salt form coastlines or roads here so I forgot to mention that. Thanks for watching and the heads up!

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC ..I’ve learned the hard way on my ‘17 rancher and had to fab up and weld in new lower rear control arm brackets and the lower front diff brackets…it was barely hanging on …had to cut off all the mount bolt heads too just to remove diff and lower arm…buyer beware !👍🏼

Wow, thanks!

Thank you too!

I'm a bit confused about what you mean by bringing the cam to the highest point. You should align the T mark on the flywheel with the pointer in the mag cover, this is TDC ( top dead center ) then align your cam marks with the pointer cast into the head. This will position the cam lobes at their lowest point and allow the valve lash ( clearance ) to be adjusted. Good luck and thanks for watching!

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC yep thank you, I had the valve head off the motor and was confusing myself. The moment I put it together and put to top dead center everything worked as expected. My own fault trying to adjust off the engine

Glad it was helpful!

Sorry about that, it's a tough area with lots of pieces in the way. Thanks for watching though!

A sticking or worn out float valve is the most likely culprit. Thanks for watching!