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JWS Repair Service LLC
United States
Registrace 17. 09. 2017
This channel is dedicated to our own small Motorcycle/ATV/UTV repair shop, we love all things powersports related, we love to have fun and get weird and we LOVE our furbaby's (who doesn't?) We appreciate all of our subscribers and followers who are helping build our channel. Thank you all so much!
Detergent Holder 3D Printing Time Lapse #shorts
Time Lapse 3D printing of a detergent cap holder for laundry detergent. These are available in our Etsy store, check out cwcustomgoods.etsy.com
zhlédnutí: 1 041
Video
Caught on Camera Car Smashes into Truck, Amazing How Everyone is Okay! #Shorts
zhlédnutí 38Před 10 měsíci
2:27 AM 10-21-2023, car smashed into parked truck right in front of my house. Not sure how fast they were going but it picked up and shoved the truck quite a ways! Luckily, there didn't appear to be any injuries. Not our normal content, but this is pretty rare for my town. #shorts
1989 Ford F350 Plug and Play Keyless Entry Install
zhlédnutí 786Před rokem
Today at JWS we are installing a keyless entry module on our 1989 Ford F350 with the 7.3 idi Diesel engine. With the help of Tony's Car Care, we are happy to show you just how easy it is to add this super convenient feature to older vehicles. Be sure to like, share, and subscribe to help us build our channel. Don't forget Tony, catch him on CZcams right here czcams.com/channels/HceosBGLbrcGwD_m...
How to cut up a whole chicken
zhlédnutí 40Před 2 lety
At JWS we like to help others however we can, today we will be demonstrating the process of cutting up and brining a whole chicken to make fried chicken. We hope you find this content useful. A like and subscribe would let us know that you did. Thanks for watching!
Mrs JWS Homemade Whipped Cream
zhlédnutí 33Před 2 lety
Today Mrs JWS makes homemade fresh Whipped Cream..yummy! This is her second video and she is getting better with the nervousness. You can help her by showing your support. Like this video, share this video if you found it helpful. You can also support the channel by subscribing and tapping the notification bell to be the first to know when we post new content. Thanks for watching! PS, you might...
Mrs JWS Banana Pudding Cheesecake, Easy delicious dessert!
zhlédnutí 77Před 2 lety
Let's all say Hi to Mrs JWS. She is nervous in this video and I am enjoying being behind the camera for a change. She is an awesome cook and I fully blame her for me being over-weight! Give her a thumbs up and some encouraging words and I'm sure she will be happy to bring some more delicious recipes to the channel. Be sure to Like, Subscribe and Share if you found this video entertaining or hel...
Used ATV/UTV Buyer's Guide
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 2 lety
Today we will learn about some important things to consider when buying a used ATV/UTV. I will specifically be doing a walk around on an ATV, but this also applies to a UTV, though some things may be in different places. Please like and subscribe if you found this video useful. Check out the other videos on the channel to help get that used machine back in working order!
Polaris Ranger 500 Bottom End
zhlédnutí 3,6KPřed 3 lety
Today at JWS we are rebuilding the bottom end on a 2009 Ranger 500 due to a failure of the oil pump, most likely due to water intrusion (swamping). We will go over the bottom end in detail. Please like, share and subscribe it really helps build our channel which helps us bring more content like this to you. This is experience I have gathered over 30 years in dealerships and now my own shop.
Polaris Ranger 500 Water Pump Seals
zhlédnutí 9KPřed 3 lety
Continuing the series of the complete engine rebuild on the 2009 Polaris ranger 500 today we replace the water pump seals, mechanical and oil seal specifically.
Polaris Ranger 500 Top End Rebuild
zhlédnutí 17KPřed 3 lety
Today at JWS we are replacing the piston, rings and cylinder on a 2009 Polaris 500 Ranger. This is a series of videos as this unit required a complete lower end rebuild as well. I will place these videos in a play list and include the links in the descriptions once they are all live. Thank you for watching and helping build our channel, we are halfway to enough subs to get monetized which will ...
Choke VS Mixture Enrichener
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 3 lety
In today's video, we answer a viewer submitted question of the difference between a choke and a mixture enrichener. If you found this content helpful please like and share it. If you want to see more like this please subscribe and check the notification bell to be one of the first to know when we post new content. Catch us on the web at www.jwsrepairservices.com. I misspoke in the video, the ca...
Polaris Sportsman/Ranger 500 Valve Job. DIY the right way!
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 3 lety
Today at JWS we are performing a complete valve job on a Polaris 500 cylinder head. This engine was introduced back in 1996 and is still used today. This particular head is from a 2009 Polaris ranger EFI that suffered an oil pump failure due to water intrusion. The 425 version has the many of the same components so this video would apply to those as well. Additional videos will be uploaded soon...
1984 ATC 200M carb rebuild, going back old school.
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 4 lety
1984 ATC 200M carb rebuild, going back old school.
Amazing, simple, save BIG $$$$. Busted part restorer in a can!!!
zhlédnutí 42Před 4 lety
Amazing, simple, save BIG $$$$. Busted part restorer in a can!!!
1995-1996 Honda Shadow ACE 1100 Carb rebuild, re-install and tuning ( Part 2 )
zhlédnutí 14KPřed 4 lety
1995-1996 Honda Shadow ACE 1100 Carb rebuild, re-install and tuning ( Part 2 )
2006 Honda Silverwing fork seal replacement. DIY
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 4 lety
2006 Honda Silverwing fork seal replacement. DIY
1995-1996 Honda Shadow 1100 ACE Carb removal and disassembly (Part 1)
zhlédnutí 20KPřed 4 lety
1995-1996 Honda Shadow 1100 ACE Carb removal and disassembly (Part 1)
Get your lawnmower ready for the season. DIY Super easy!
zhlédnutí 16Před 4 lety
Get your lawnmower ready for the season. DIY Super easy!
LED Headlight conversion for your older motorcycle
zhlédnutí 3,2KPřed 4 lety
LED Headlight conversion for your older motorcycle
2001 Suzuki Bandit 4 cylinder carb rebuild
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 4 lety
2001 Suzuki Bandit 4 cylinder carb rebuild
2005 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Carb Rebuild Easy DIY!!
zhlédnutí 48KPřed 4 lety
2005 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Carb Rebuild Easy DIY!!
Cinnabon Cinnamon Rolls from scratch at Home!
zhlédnutí 175Před 4 lety
Cinnabon Cinnamon Rolls from scratch at Home!
Crab Stuffed Shrimp! Easy and delicious!
zhlédnutí 50Před 5 lety
Crab Stuffed Shrimp! Easy and delicious!
thx for the video. on my 1990 f350 the front doors have power locks but the rear are manual locks. Your '89 is probably the same. I was hoping this kit would include actuators for the rear doors, but that doesn't seem to be the case. You didn't mention this issue.... I guess maybe you just leave the rear doors locked most of the time in order to use the keyless entry?
My 1989 has power door locks front and rear. It has power windows in the front only. Mine is the XLT Lariat trim level.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC mine is xlt lariat also. kinda surprising the rear locks are different than yours.
Great video. Did you use new head and base bolts or just reuse the old?
We normally reuse them as they aren't TTY or "torque to yield". Now if we have a case of a blown head gasket or head/piston impact, we do replace the bolts.
Personally, I seldom do any night riding ... I find the factory lighting on my 2004 Shadow Spirit to be adequate for Suburban lighted streets. I am considering going LED with the turn signals however for greater safety. Should be no additional wiring with that. I would avoid adding lights because it may kill your battery and or stator prematurely. Most shade tree mechanic folks do amateurish jobs on wire routing and connecting anyway and that could be problematic.
I was there, I was looking for information on where the Fuel and Vacuum hoses feed to on a 2007 bandit, If you have a video, Regards Joe / Ireland.
Easy peasy, I don't have a video specifically showing these lines but I can explain them. Your fuel line will attach in between the two center carbs, and then aluminum tubes supply fuel from those to the outer carbs. The vacuum line (should only be one used, cap the rest if they are drilled) will be on the #1 carb or left side, it will attach to the vacuum petcock, also known as a fuel tap. The 2 large rubber tees fit between the outer 2 pairs of carbs and are just vents, and then the hoses run down behind the carbs and below the airbox. Hope this answers your question. Let me know if you have any other issues. Thanks for watching! Ireland? Wow, I'm International!!!
I have a 40hp force. Can i put a bigger carb on it?
I'm not sure why you would want to, if you want more power, a bigger carb is not going to do that. Realistically, the only way you can get more power out of an outboard, would be to put a bigger outboard on it. If there was another reason you wanted to swap it out, please let me know.
How do i get into a repair shop? Want to open my own repair shop
You can do what I did, go to a Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki and/or Polaris dealer and start as an apprentice, work your butt off, take advantage of any classes the mfgr's offer and if its a Honda dealer, work towards the much coveted title of Honda Factory Certified Technician, this will take a minimum of 3 years, Honda will not let you do it faster than that ( I did it in 3, some guys never finish, it's hard). Save as much money as you possibly can and when you feel the time is right for you, find a small, inexpensive building to lease and just do it. You won't become a millionaire on this side of the business, but you can live comfortably if you're good with numbers and know how to budget if your area is seasonal. In Texas, we are pretty much year round.
Hi JWS How can I tell if my enricher is leaking? Bike 1986 yamaha maxim x 700cc, Mukuni bs 33 cv> It starts and runs with idle mixture completely closed. where is the fuel coming from. I get high idle 5k and then idle downs, then shuts off. Any help would be great.
I doubt you have an issue with your enrichener circuit, your problem sounds like a classic case of clogged pilot jets. The high idle is because the idle screw has been turned in too far to try to get an idle but actually causes the slides to rise slightly allowing fuel flow from the main jets into the intake. Clean your carbs, set the idle properly and synch them and you should to go. This video czcams.com/video/LI1ecmr2eLY/video.html is a Suzuki but still an inline 4 and will be similar in many ways. I loved those 1980's Maxim's, I even had the privilege of throwing a leg over the Seca Turbo, awesome machine! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Excellent, thank you very much!
You are welcome!
Thank You for the video!
Thank you for the kind words.
I like this guy .. hes experienced and knowledgable.. ill do my seals now.. he made it look easy
Take your time, if you notice I even placed a spring upside down in the video ( I corrected it before fully re-assembling ) but even I after 30+ years, still make ooopsies.
Thanks!
Thank you so much! My first Super Thanks!! Thanks again for watching!
I have a 1988 force 50. It floods and a little bit of gas comes out the air side when it runs for a while….can you fix it if I mail it to you?…..or, can you tell me how to fix it? I’ll gladly pay for the service.
If you haven't already, replace the float valve needle, part # F10265, note that they will be branded as Mercury/Quicksilver, sadly Force has gone the way of the Dodo. If you have replaced it and the float itself is floating and undamaged, you may have to find another carb body as the seat is not replaceable by itself and may be worn and not round. We unfortunately don't repair mailed in components as we have had issues in the past that the carb or whatever component may not have been the actual problem and the customer is very upset that they paid for it to still not run correctly and were mad at us even though it wasn't our fault, so we adopted a strict policy of providing advice, rather than direct service. thanks for watching!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC your video gave me the confidence to remove my float needle and I discovered that a piece of the rubber broke off into the needle seat and made the float either get stuck open or stuck closed. I was able to force it out with my ryobi bike tire inflator. I reused the old needle since I didn’t know what part# would be correct and it’s working well as is. Now that I have the information I will gladly order a new one! Thanks, you save a lot of us by making this video and answering comments!
@@Kirk-md2he Thank you again for watching! I'm glad it was an easy fix! I have updated the part numbers and vendors in the video description to make part finding easier. Thank you for sharing your feedback and helping others to feel confident to "take the leap" and get that feeling of accomplishment when they hit the lake in their smooth running boat, that THEY fixed!
Had a lil issue putting the airbox back on so their fully seated. It looked like the 2 middle carbs weren't properly seated...Any tips on that?
Lubrication and a 90 degree pick can help get those boots on.
Question: any thoughts on stopping gas from leaking out of the carburetor? I thought it was initially the gaskets (bowl gaskets) so i replaced them all and it looks like it is leaking from the intake. Suggestions on a solution? (Its the 75hp version with the similar carb)
75hp is the same carb. If it is leaking like that it can be that the float valve is no longer seating, or the seat in the carburetor itself is worn. The float valve is replaceable, the seat would require the carb body to be replaced. Thanks for watching!
You need better lighting
Sorry, I'm a professional technician, not a filmographer. Just trying to share my knowledge to help the masses.
how many mm is the press fork? Thanks
Press fork? The fork slider (silver part) and the fork seal driver (press tool) are both 41mm. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
Hy. Do you know how long are the tube of forks? Thanks@@JWSRepairServiceLLC
Thanks for the informative vid. I have the same bike same paint and year just trying to figure out what’s going on with the way it’s running and wasn’t sure the best way to pull the carbs. 😎👍. Going to look for part 2 now
Glad it helped!
Thanks. I'm about to do this on my 2003 Griz.
your like Minnesota fats bro. instead of using a cue stick you use that Philips screwdriver to sink all the balls in the pockets.
A very accurate and technical video, great job! I was wondering what you think of sea foam and similar products? Based on what you found in the carb bowl and jets I doubt that such products will work on that green sludge. I am interested to hear an expert opinion though.
Thank you for the nice comments. I will tell you like I tell everybody, if the jets aren't completely clogged, Seafoam "might" work, but if they are completely clogged, nothing is going through them, including the Seafoam. Using Seafoam as a periodic additive is not a bad idea to help maintain a good running machine, but in 35 years, I have never seen a "miracle in a bottle" make a non-running engine run all by itself.
I have this exact bike and i dont seem to have much acceleration or pull for that matter beyond half throttle. Bike starts great idles great and revs without load normally.... shift to next gear and power returns until half _ 3/4 throttle.... any ideas?
Typically what you're describing is related to the vacuum slides not opening under acceleration. The butterfly opens ( it's mechanical ) but the vacuum slide does not, this causes a lean mixture and lack of power. Check your slides closely for debris and the diaphragms for holes or tears. The slides should move all the way up and down without resistance, other than the spring of course. Also, be sure to check the main jet itself and make sure it is not restricted, that will also cause a lean condition and lack of power and acceleration. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC am i correct in assuming that if one is restricted from sliding, the other will not work simply because of laak of pressure from engine or would they both not work? Any ideas on how to avoid removing carbs and still correcting this possible issue?
The carburetor slides can and do work independently of each other, I have seen many cases where one works fine and the other doesn't. It would be great if these inspections and repairs could be done with the carbs on and not disassembled however, this is not possible, the carbs will have to be removed from the bike. Good luck!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC so after the first stages of the job, the left side tube was off the carb.... i manualy moved the slide and it was free.... put the tube back on and will test it later today... As of now lucky break!! Your quick response was amazing and very much appreciated.... Thank you sir!!
Awesome video! I just had the original one rebuilt, but now I have a high idle and very rich smokey exhaust. Also when you give a good blip on the throttle, the rpms stay high for a few seconds then drops down to the higher than normal idle. Never had done that before. No matter what I do with factory settings which are. The pilot screw spec in manual is to lightly seat then back out 1-7/8 turns. Jet needle in the middle 3rd groove. To resolve I tried to move it 2nd groove from the top, no change. Then highest groove and doesn't start at all. Moved back to middle, starts back to high idle/running rich. Helps if I had the rights tools as well. Trying to get to the pilot screw is a pain. I didn't know there were 90 degree 16 inch screw drivers till I seen your video. So I got one of those to help tackle this. My question is, why would this be happening? Going to try some ideas this afternoon. First is to turn on the choke to see if idle goes down, if so then it's more pilot screw adjusting. Second is to inspect the slide on the throttle cable. I've see others report the screw was stick on a burr on the slide and not letting it drop. Lastly to spray break/carb cleaner around the intake to see if there is a intake leak. Any other ideas are welcome if you have any. Thanks in advance!
I would check the pilot jet (low speed) really close, it could be idling off the slide, meaning that the idle screw is turned in too far to make it run at all. The slide should drop all the way down and bottom to allow the pilot jet to take over. That being said, the 200 cc series of engines for Honda were the first ones that I ever saw that would actually wear out a carburetor. The clearance of the body to the slide would increase causing a drop in atomization of the fuel, therefore causing the engine to run rich (sometimes VERY rich), I have replaced dozens of these carbs for that reason.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Thanks for the info. I'm just about to start over again and rebuild with original parts cleaned up the best you can get it. Try that and test. Otherwise a replacement carb would be last option. I also made a video of what's happening. Check it out here. czcams.com/video/4oTFUzRZChk/video.html&ab_channel=Dirte883
I have a 1985 honda 200m 3 wheeler would this be the same carburetor procedure and is the carburetor for the 1984 the same as the 1985 which is the one I have...Thanks
Yes it is, they are identical. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. THANKS AGAIN Rick P
What a great informative video!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge to help others. Any thoughts on Kawasaki Prairie 400's 4x4 Early 2000's models?
Thank you! Prairie 400's are solid machines and parts are still (mostly) readily available.
Thank you very much, one of the best videos of this kind out there
Wow, thanks!
Fantastic series of videos on the 500 engine. Do you have a recommendation for break in oil after a top end rebuild? Thank you for taking the time to make these vids.
The factory weight of 0W40 is the recommended oil for break in and operation alike. Thanks for watching!
Hey man, you should post these videos as shorts since they typically do a lot better
I agree, however, CZcams doesn't work that way. I can only tag the video #shorts and CZcams will put it there themselves if they want to.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLCsounds like the video needs to be in a vertical format to work from what I've heard
I don’t get it. What does it do?
hangs on the top of the bottle and catches the drips. for the big bottles that have a spout
It does just what @roo1670 says. Pretty helpful as those spouts do tend to dribble from time to time. I was going to reply with a picture of it hanging off the bottle, but that doesn't seem to be an option.
There is no way to read the message at the end of the video because it is covered by suggestions for the next video.
Agreed, CZcams encourages cards but then they cover the video, they should pop up at the very end. I have asked about that and so far have received no response from YT.
someone made a video on how to remove the fitting, it takes a LOT of heat. the whole cylinder will be HOT
That's the reason I chose NOT to show it as it could be a liability issue if someone hurts themselves or breaks the part(s).
This is a great video. I've never done this before but recently got a 2002 Trail Boss 325. I don't know any service history. It does run and is in pretty good condition. It seemed like it had some carb issues so I decided to try to rebuild the carb. It would start with the use of the choke, it hesitated but it would idle after disengaging the choke, with a little patience and restarting. It would die as soon as I gave it throttle. I was able to gradually work the throttle and get it to rev up and went on a quick test ride to make sure there were no major drivetrain issues. All good, so I've dug into the carb rebuild. Based on my research, I thought it would have a factory 145 main jet. I looked up the engine code, the manual said either 145 or 120 depending on the engine code. Seemed like mine was the 145. I live and ride at 7,500'+ in elevation so I ordered a new 137.5 jet. When I opened up the carb, the jet that was in there was a 115, based on the markings. I'm not sure which one I should use. Could the 115 jet be the problem? The carb and jets didn't look too bad when I pulled it apart.
What I've found is that the factory calls for a 120 and that's sea level to 8,000 ft. If you're at 7500 ft, that is so close to the 8,000ft limit, it might not be a bad idea to use the 115 and just see how it runs. The higher the altitude, the thinner the air, the less fuel you can burn with the oxygen available, so when you go up, the main jets go down. That being said, what you are describing sounds more like a pilot jet issue. The pilot jet supplies fuel for starting, idling and running up to 1/4 throttle, then the main takes over. Double check that the pilot jet has a hole through it and is clean. I would also screw the pilot screw in a half turn die to the elevation, for you 2 full turns from seat, instead of 2.5. Good luck!
Thank you so much for the response! Hopefully I can start reassembling today. Still need to empty the gas tank and replace a couple leaky fuel lines before I'm ready to test it.
Very informative video . I screwed up before I found this video.I thought there was a jet under the brass cap at back of carb and started drilling it out thinking it was a plug with a jet underneath.Pretty sure I just messed up my carb.Anyhow thank you for a great video!!
You might not have screwed it up. There is a brass cap near the throat of the carb on the bottom near where it connects to the intake manifold. It should be round and protrudes from the body maybe a half inch or so. That is the pilot mixture screw ( they are capped off from the factory ), if the carb has never been cleaned, or properly cleaned, that factory plug could still be intact. If this is the plug you are talking about just gently drill through it, don't use much force. Once you get a hole all the way through it, use a coarse thread screw to remove the plug, after that, you should see a slotted screw head under it, remove that screw, along with the spring, washer and tiny o-ring. If you don't see the washer and o-ring, use the course thread screw and "screw" it back into the hole just a bit, it should grab the washer and o-ring and you can remove them and clean the port. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
I like your vid.... in your opinion, which model of 4 x 4 has the least amount of repairs or lowest cost for repairs, assuming proper owner maintenance... thanx
That's a tough one, it really depends on the year, in the past I would have said Honda, nowadays? I would have to say Kawasaki. Yamaha's were great in the late 80's and 90's, they were TANKS. Sadly, I feel the newer these things are, the more fragile they are, and more expensive to fix.
Very good video. 03 660 grizzly keeps backfiring, only runs on choke, off choke it will idle somewhat but won’t let me give it throttle without backfiring and dying. New jug, new piston, valves in spec, new timing chain, valves lapped, at first had the camshaft 180 off😂 but still ran good. Same issues as above. It’s driving me nuts. Put the carb back in sonic cleaner and will try again. Thinking my float height maybe off too. But about to address it tomorrow.
That sounds like a classic clogged pilot (low speed) jet, it has a tiny hole and many think it doesn't actually have one, trust me, it does and it must have for it to start and idle correctly.
I realize this atv is long gone and out of the shop, but maybe you could do a video of a atv that comes into the shop for services and doing a before and after would be a nice touch. Keep up the good work
Thank you, I will keep an eye out for a "resurrection", we usually get some this time of year because of income tax refunds.
Great video. What is your typical rate for a full rebuild? Top and bottom end?
This will vary a TON depending on the model, but typically range anywhere from $1,500 to over $5,000.
You can’t get the whole pump anymore just all the parts. Which is Complete BS if you ask me.
Thank you for your excellent video. I have a 2004 Grizzly that stopped running with its original carb. The bike will run with a new AM carb, albeit with poor throttle response. I have rebuilt the oem Mikuni carb with an oem Mikuni kit and can’t get the bike to run. It seems like the Venturi slide isn’t opening. Any help you can provide?
Thanks for watching! Now, your slide is operated by engine vacuum but is in a "ported" configuration. What does that mean you ask? I'll explain, ported vacuum sources on engines are ones that supply MORE vacuum under acceleration rather than most of the other sources that will basically fall to zero when the butterfly opens. This is achieved on your engine by 2 small holes on the bottom (needle side) of the slide itself, as the butterfly opens, the engine attempts to pull an increasing volume of air into it, as this happens, high speed air rushes past those 2 little holes, drawing out the air above the slide diaphragm and creating an area of low pressure, this lifts the slide and the needle allowing the engine to get both more air and fuel. This system is very efficient and works flawlessly as long as, 1. The diaphragm is intact, it should be soft and flexible with no cracks or tears. 2. The slide is not physically hanging up in the bore of the carb, you should be able to push up the slide and it will return freely all the way to the bottom. 3. There are no vacuum leaks between the carb and the engine, this is usually a cracked or delaminated intake manifold (common on Yamaha) or a bad O-ring behind the manifold $. Lastly, if your engine will not start at all or is very difficult to start even under full choke and/or has a tendency to "run away" or rev very high by itself and then spit and sputter and die or idle very rough, many times with a noticeable back fire, you may have a tight intake valve that is not closing all the way or is closing late due to tight clearance. Check your valve clearances, Intake should be .004 and exhaust should be .006. Check those things and let me know what you find. We'll get your machine running again!
What about the main nozzle in the carb bore? It seems to be able to be replaced in either direction. One side is a square cut, and the other is cupped. The needle goes into the part I am referring to. Am I correct in the assumption that the cupped/parabolic relieved side goes into the bore?
@@albertferrara4139 The rounded end goes towards the emulsifier tube (main jet holder) facing down, the cupped part does go into the bore, otherwise facing up.
Lol i just went thru this pulled the carb like 10 times until i relized this and its almost press fit so you dont even think it should go in you have to have it right inline and pretty much press it in @JWSRepairServiceLLC
Thank you! Your video is great. Good job!
Thank you!
Excellent video
So for using the drain screw to drain the carb, is that for simply removing fuel so it doesnt ait for long periods of time? Or do we need to do that every time we stop riding for the night?
It is for draining when you will not be running it for sometime. With the "quality" of today's fuel, we suggest draining if you will not be running it for 3 or more weeks. thanks for watching!
" I was there"
Great video, thanks for all the info
Glad it was helpful!
I have 2 gas lines on left side of carb which one goes to the tank n wer does the other one go
I'm assuming your machine is the 125 version. The 2 fuel lines both go to the tank, 1 is for On and the other one is reserve. If the tank has been replaced with an aftermarket plastic tank, you will only need one line as the petcock will be located on the tank itself, rather than the carburetor where it is now. If you do have a plastic tank with only one hose you will need to cap one side at the carburetor itself. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and good luck!
Let’s not forget chassis !…look for rust at welds especially at control arm brackets, engine mounts, carrier mounts even if it’s fairly new ..look to see if someone shot paint on chassis and there’s overspray on things that shouldn’t have It could be hiding chassis rust..
Good tip, we don't have salt form coastlines or roads here so I forgot to mention that. Thanks for watching and the heads up!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC ..I’ve learned the hard way on my ‘17 rancher and had to fab up and weld in new lower rear control arm brackets and the lower front diff brackets…it was barely hanging on …had to cut off all the mount bolt heads too just to remove diff and lower arm…buyer beware !👍🏼
Best tutorial video you can find on youtube ! Excellent job JWS, thumbs up for you!!
Wow, thanks!
Excellent job, thank you
Thank you too!
Have a question I’m struggling with adjusting the valves on my 2002 Polaris sportsman 500 HO. When I bring the cam to the highest point I have zero room to where the rocker arms rest on the valve spring. It’s the correct cam, correct valves, correct springs but I have zero room for a .006 feeler gauge. What am I doing wrong?
I'm a bit confused about what you mean by bringing the cam to the highest point. You should align the T mark on the flywheel with the pointer in the mag cover, this is TDC ( top dead center ) then align your cam marks with the pointer cast into the head. This will position the cam lobes at their lowest point and allow the valve lash ( clearance ) to be adjusted. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC yep thank you, I had the valve head off the motor and was confusing myself. The moment I put it together and put to top dead center everything worked as expected. My own fault trying to adjust off the engine
Thank you. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Camera work wasnt the best on removal. The knowledge was invaluable on how everything works. You have my attention going in for part two.
Sorry about that, it's a tough area with lots of pieces in the way. Thanks for watching though!
hi i have a 96 hs 1100 ace. what is causing my left carb leaking..a steady drip whe the bike is running? great vid..
A sticking or worn out float valve is the most likely culprit. Thanks for watching!