The most entertaining part of this video is, your good old southern acceeeent. I love it. Very informaieeve. Not making fun of you either. thank you for the information.
Same code on my 92, searching for it led to this video and lo and behold someone as plugged the vacuum line into the filter port on my pickup. Previous owner said it never would idle right after it was warmed up and I get code 32 after being on the highway for a couple of minutes. It also tries to die after it's warm and I come to a stop. I'm hoping moving the vacuum hose to the correct nozzle and taping a piece of filter material over the other nozzle will solve my problem. Thanks for the video.
Farmboy....Good Video. I've got an 88 C2500...and my light comes on intermittently, and your video and confirming how to read the codes was most helpful and confirms my code is a 32....so I'm going to try to replace the solenoid. Thanks again!
Thanks, my 1995 Chevy Tahoe is also throwing trouble code 32, and has a slightly rough idle; otherwise runs great - more of an annoyance than anything else. It doesn't seem to affect performance or fuel economy, but I think mine is stuck partially open - so now I know to clean the EGR valve and then check the solenoid.
Nope... free flow exhaust reduced back pressure which the EGR valve sensor relied upon - false code. Turns out the front main bearing is knocking - time for an engine swap. Got an '89 K2500 350 engine to throw under the hood and run for a few thousand miles while I work on the other one. This is the last good SUV Chevy produced... all went downhill after that and they just don't make 'em like they used to.
My '93 Blazer had issues with the EGR also. It's problem was that it activated when it shouldn't, mostly at part throttle and letting off the gas. It would stumble and almost die when you came up to a stop.
Manejando en carretera, se me presento ese codigo 32 lave el multiple de admision, estaba lleno de carbon, y esa era la falla, no era el solenoide de la egr. Muy buen video gracias amigo farmboy saludos de monterrey n.l. mexico ( saludos a mr.trump jejeje)
I don't know when this video was posted or where but in Texas when the automobile is 25 years or older, you don't need the emission control to pass inspection. If the egr gives you trouble you can just remove it and cap the vacuum ports.
i get a code 32 on the highway sometimes....weirdest thing ..i cleaned EGR valve and passages it runs and idles fine. only ever does it in highway driving. i just live with it its a 92 so does not need emissions test anymore.
I bet the reason you're getting that code is the computer is calling for the EGR to be open but it's not opening. Probably an issue with the solenoid or vacuum line. It's not that big of a deal unless you're like me and hate to see check engine lights. I lived with mine for a long time before fixing.
I had the same exact problem on my 94 silverado 350, after i replaced the egr valve and egr solenoid. i was still getting code 32 so, i decided to remove the intake and check the egr port, sure enough the intake egr ports were completely clogged therefore setting of code 32. unclogged it, clean it up, put it back together. no more codes.
I have a 92 chevy C1500 ext cab with a new goodwrench engine from summit racing but I used the same accessories from old 5.7 engine. The truck turns on fine every morning but if I were to drive for like at least 20 minutes and then I get to my destination and i turn off the engine , but if I then need to be out on the road right away then there's like a 50/50 chance it won't turn on, then I have to wait anywhere from an hour to 2 hrs for it to turn on. This issue actually happened since the the truck had the old engine so that makes me believe this issue has something to do with the accessories? The truck runs fine otherwise, and also my cruise control don't work
If I had to guess, I'd bet money that it's a distributor issue or at least the ignition module. Check power and ground to coil next time you have trouble. You might need someone to crank it over while you check with a test light.
Not sure if you had this hard starting issue I went thru everything all new distributor and ended up being the oil pressure sensor. Thanks for the video help me out
My 95 Yukon 5.7 ltr engine stalk out when put in gear I have changed every sensor on the throttle body and about to throw in the towel I do not know what else to do I was thinking that this could be the issue but after watching and reading previous commenters I am highly doubting it,any advice will be greatly appreciated , thanks! Great vid !!
Thanks! I think if you had an issue with the EGR solenoid stuck open, it'd run rough at idle (lean). Did you check all the vacuum lines? Did you check the MAP sensor? The only other area I can think of is a clogged catalytic converter or an issue with your transmission (torque converter stuck in lockup mode maybe?) Good luck!
is it giving you codes?? Have you checked it? What does it say? If you say you changed every sensor around the throttle body, perhaps it may not be that, also check if you’re getting good gasoline pressure. Check the fuel filter. If not that, a bad spark plug, or maybe a rotor isn’t creating a good spark. Also one time, I accidentally had one of my plug wires on the left passenger of the manifold contacting while hot and burned the wire down. Shit happens
Thanks. I went and bought a ECM (OBD 1) Code reader for $29.99 Paperclip huh..... Dang it... But hey as long as that diaphragm thing moves freely it's ok right? I'm working on a 87 Pontiac Firebird 2.8 V6 and got Codes 32, 33, 34, and 45. After the cars runs for a couple minutes check engine light comes on and it almost stalls, then idles rough at about 600 RPM. I'll check the solenoid. Thanks for posting.
The diaphragm can have a hole in it and still move when you squeeze it. To check for that, squeeze and put your finger over the vacuum nipple. If the diaphragm stays put when you let go of it, it's good. If it returns to the unsqueezed position...there's a leak in the diaphragm.
Hello I have a 93 Chevy Silverado 2500 5.7 Im not getting any codes ,I checked my fuel pump it shoots fuel, I replaced fuel filter, fuel relay, distributor cap and rotor and it will only start when I spray starting fluid and hold the throttle once I let off it dies out, any suggestions? Thank you !
I have a 1993 350 sport and I am getting codes 12 which is fine but I also have 22 throttle position sensor low voltage i just replaced it that code could also be fuel cutoff relay shorted to ground which I have no idea where that is. Is that the same thing as a fuel pump relay?? Code 32 egr solenoid and code 35 idle air control system problem can not set desired rpm and this was changed twice within a week the first one was a faulty IAC so I took it to O'Rileys and had them warranty the old one for a new one and is now throwing this code any suggestions on what I should do
I'm having an issue where it sounds like it's piping popcorn in the exhuast and that's causing it to run rough then eventually stall out, but always cranks over no issue, I know it's a misfire but I'm not sure what's causing it, I've replace map sensor, retimed, full tune up including plugs fuel filter wired distributer cap and rotor.... it's fine when you give it gas to go on the streets, but parking it or going slow like 10 mph it starts idling rough... any help would be appreciated
How was the truck running that caused this problem? I have a 1992 Chevy 5.7L Silverado that runs rough when cold but runs great at normal running temp. And my gas mileage is horrible right now. Any help is appreciated.
+Jim Morrow Because the EGR never opened, it ran fine cold or hot. The only issue was the CEL that came on when it wanted the EGR to open. I would suspect an idle air control issue or bad temp sensor in your case.
95 k1500 5.7L set code 32 after installing true dual exhaust, no idling issues or driving issues but light will come on once getting up over 55mph. Changed egr valve about a year ago, leaned all passages and check for vacuum leaks and egr valve still holds vacuum. Any ideas? Everything was working great and no issues once the new exhaust was put in. And still is running great with lots of power, any help?
Just weird how after putting duals on, I'm getting this code. I will check the solenoid and probably replace it to get that out of the way. But do you think not having enough back pressure or the o2 sensor reading off one bank could be a problem? I have 2 cats and 2 mufflers, one one each side. I hooked up a scanner to it and the scanner says(while driving over 55mph) that the egr called for the valve to open but it's at 0%. I pushed it manually and the egr valve open, (ran rough) as well as putting a hand vaccum pump to it, and also bypassed the solenoid and went straight from the intake to the egr valve and it wouldn't move, even though it sucks good and you can hear the vacuum leak. (I was in park when I did this.) I'll try replacing the solenoid and get back if anyone has this same problem. Any advice is welcome!
@@farmboy30117 I replaced the solenoid as well as I reinstalled the factory EGR valve at the same time. In doing this, I notice a ground near the passenger side behind the block was not attached. This ground comes from the frame-to-firewall-to-block. I think my issue was that the ground was not secure, If anyone has this problem, check your grounds. Not sure if replacing the solenoid or back to the original egr valve fixed the issue as I had a tee with a gauge in between the solenoid and the egr with a scanner plugged in and indicate something is wrong as soon as the light would come on but the solenoid(old/factory) would still show a vacuum through the gauge and the EGR valve would still open. Most likely the ground in my case, I could replace the egr valve and solenoid again to test, I don't have a check engine light after driving over 100miles. maybe the guy that installed my exhaust happened to mess with this ground and forgot, only ever set off code 32 right after picking my truck up from him. Hope this helps anyone with same issue.
+Chito Lopez a "12' code is normal. It will flash 3 times before and after any set codes. A "15" code is the engine temperature sensor circuit indicating low temperature. Probably need to replace the temperature sensor but check the wiring to make sure they are intact. The sensor is on the front of the engine near the alternator.
+farmboy30117 I just replaced it and no more check engine light.. Now I'm getting a check gauges and my temperature gauge is all the way to red.. What can It be?
farmboy30117 I took my old egr out and the port was purposely plugged up with some kind of epoxy. With it installed it will stay running when I hold the diaphragm open with my hand. Soon as I let go it dies. Makes wonder how in the hell it ran with it plugged up then..
I have a 1989 Chevy Silverado 1500 have a new motor it smoke running rich have a code 32 replace the egr value reset ECM still have a code 32 still running rich
I'm not doubting the problem or how you fixed it. But your dash panel layout doesn't look like a '93. Dads is a '93 Silverado and his panel is way different. I don't believe it'll make much of a difference within the year ranges, as far as electronics and computer programming. Just configuration and slight design differences. Not barking at ya or calling you anything. Just observing a difference.
That's interesting... I wonder if his is an early '93 and they had a carry over of the '92 style gauges. Unless someone has changed these out before I got of course...
They did do "mid year" changes on vehicles to run parts out. You can tell by vin number somehow. I've dealt with a Ford Escort that specifically needed to have "an 83 and a half" added to the description to get the correct parts. I've also seen first hand that a John Deere 744H changed designs of the injectors somewhere in that production range. That left it open to a scenario where you may get an injector that looks extremely similar, but is in fact specifically different from the injector you need. In this particular case, the vin number wasn't useful in determining the difference. It was a change on the fly that left it as a hit or miss, or 50/50 chance of getting the injectors we needed. The model and vin numbers encompassed both designs without mention of the change on the fly. The John Deere service technician that came to the shop didn't even know this. We got the wrong ones at first. Upon discovering the slightly different dedign, he investigated and found the design change, without accompanying, added notices that would have allowed for the correct, exact design match. And at $1200.00 per injector, plus service tech hourly rate, plus dowtime, plus, plus, plus...you can imagine the cost of being wrong. Mazda B Series pickup dashes are Ford. They're plastic casted with "Ford" right on them. Interchangeable. The 1996 Geo Tracker is a year all its own. Design change from '95 to '96. Turns out that the '96 model design was prone to guage panel issues. A lot. Rather than do a mid year change, they redesigned it completely for '97. So prior to '96, certain years were interchangable. '97 and certain future years had interchangable parts. '96 was a monster all its own. Which made it difficult to find cerain parts without paying through every orifice. I would say it's very plausible of a mid year, on the fly change with your pickup. Or, someone else changed it. Nothing to worry about unless you have unexplained, reoccurring problems that don't match the years common flaw list. It could be a lemon. A Monday or Friday truck. Either way, your video was informative. And I thank you for it.
Might be right where the exaust manifold and and exaust meet. The connecting brackets ware and it sounds crazy. I fixed mine with furnace cement for $10
I got code32 when I'm on the interstate or driving fast the check engine light comes on vehicle seems to struggle going up hills at higher speeds like it's got a loss of power and when you first crank the vehicle and idles up and down up and down
Code 12 is normal. It should flash 12 three times then any codes that are stored and then 12 three more times, so if all it is flashing is 12, then no codes are stored.
+Julian Lopez Code 15 is set if the engine coolant temp sensor circuit is open for 3 seconds (low temp), Code 22 is set if the throttle position sensor circuit voltage is low (or open) for 3 seconds, and code 43 is not listed in my '93 chevy manual. I don't know what year you're referring to, but it may be listed in the Haynes or Chilton's manuals.
The most entertaining part of this video is, your good old southern acceeeent. I love it. Very informaieeve. Not making fun of you either. thank you for the information.
i have a 93 extended cab silverado and your videos have helped me alot thank you :)
Thanks Jamie! Glad it helped!
Same code on my 92, searching for it led to this video and lo and behold someone as plugged the vacuum line into the filter port on my pickup. Previous owner said it never would idle right after it was warmed up and I get code 32 after being on the highway for a couple of minutes. It also tries to die after it's warm and I come to a stop. I'm hoping moving the vacuum hose to the correct nozzle and taping a piece of filter material over the other nozzle will solve my problem. Thanks for the video.
dude this is exactly what is happening to my 92 k1500. Did u find a fix to this?
This is awesome, I've been getting a Code 32 from my Chevy truck as well. Thank you for this video, I've learned a lot!
Thanks, I'm glad it helped!
Farmboy....Good Video. I've got an 88 C2500...and my light comes on intermittently, and your video and confirming how to read the codes was most helpful and confirms my code is a 32....so I'm going to try to replace the solenoid. Thanks again!
+Greg Boyington Glad it helped!
Thanks for this video my husband is having this very issue with his truck. He replaced everything else but the truck was still running sluggish.
"Ive been having this truck since i got it" haha . Good video bro
Jamal Cole ikr lmfao that was really funny
"today, im gonna try and fix a problem ive been having with this truck since i bought it"
Clear as day.
@@johnathonkelp3587 crystal clear
thanks for posting! Learned a lot.
John Blaze Glad it helped!
Thanks, my 1995 Chevy Tahoe is also throwing trouble code 32, and has a slightly rough idle; otherwise runs great - more of an annoyance than anything else. It doesn't seem to affect performance or fuel economy, but I think mine is stuck partially open - so now I know to clean the EGR valve and then check the solenoid.
Nope... free flow exhaust reduced back pressure which the EGR valve sensor relied upon - false code. Turns out the front main bearing is knocking - time for an engine swap. Got an '89 K2500 350 engine to throw under the hood and run for a few thousand miles while I work on the other one. This is the last good SUV Chevy produced... all went downhill after that and they just don't make 'em like they used to.
Marty Ulrich That's the truth! Worst vehicle I ever owned was an '01 S-10 Blazer. Junk!
Thanks sir! Currently having this issue with my ‘95 Tahoe.
My '93 Blazer had issues with the EGR also. It's problem was that it activated when it shouldn't, mostly at part throttle and letting off the gas. It would stumble and almost die when you came up to a stop.
If yours has the solenoid it is controlled by the computer. I would suspect the solenoid is sticking and not closing all the way.
Manejando en carretera, se me presento ese codigo 32 lave el multiple de admision, estaba lleno de carbon, y esa era la falla, no era el solenoide de la egr. Muy buen video gracias amigo farmboy saludos de monterrey n.l. mexico ( saludos a mr.trump jejeje)
Hola limpiaste el intake manifold?
Sergio, que es lo que controla el EGR? mi cheyenne 93 lo tiene desconectado. Saludos.
I don't know when this video was posted or where but in Texas when the automobile is 25 years or older, you don't need the emission control to pass inspection. If the egr gives you trouble you can just remove it and cap the vacuum ports.
No emissions testing where I live in Georgia either.
i get a code 32 on the highway sometimes....weirdest thing ..i cleaned EGR valve and passages it runs and idles fine. only ever does it in highway driving. i just live with it its a 92 so does not need emissions test anymore.
I bet the reason you're getting that code is the computer is calling for the EGR to be open but it's not opening. Probably an issue with the solenoid or vacuum line. It's not that big of a deal unless you're like me and hate to see check engine lights. I lived with mine for a long time before fixing.
I had the same exact problem on my 94 silverado 350, after i replaced the egr valve and egr solenoid. i was still getting code 32 so, i decided to remove the intake and check the egr port, sure enough the intake egr ports were completely clogged therefore setting of code 32. unclogged it, clean it up, put it back together. no more codes.
I’m going to check mine out. 32 just showed up
Thank you , i never knew about the jumper.
Great videos bother your a good guy. To share your know how😂
Thanks for the paper clip information. I forgot which terminals to plug into, Thanks
You're welcome!
You done didalie fix the problem. My 94' has the same code I hope it's the same problem too. Thanks for sharing!
+Jason Norman Hope it helps
"whaimdo, whaimdo is imon checkit" lol nice video
Will this also cause my 92 GMC to lose power?...If so will replacing it solve this problem of losing power.
Yes if the solenoid is bad the EGR valve won't operate coerrectly and engine will lose power and run lean on high rpm's
My 93 chevy silverado 1500 running bad and shaking when I pick up speed. It just started doing it about a week ago.
Jermany Jordan did you figure out the problem? My 94 suburban is doing the same
I have a 92 chevy C1500 ext cab with a new goodwrench engine from summit racing but I used the same accessories from old 5.7 engine. The truck turns on fine every morning but if I were to drive for like at least 20 minutes and then I get to my destination and i turn off the engine , but if I then need to be out on the road right away then there's like a 50/50 chance it won't turn on, then I have to wait anywhere from an hour to 2 hrs for it to turn on. This issue actually happened since the the truck had the old engine so that makes me believe this issue has something to do with the accessories? The truck runs fine otherwise, and also my cruise control don't work
If I had to guess, I'd bet money that it's a distributor issue or at least the ignition module. Check power and ground to coil next time you have trouble. You might need someone to crank it over while you check with a test light.
farmboy30117 thank you,yea I was thinking maybe the coil
@@SubieandFriends what did you end up finding?
Not sure if you had this hard starting issue I went thru everything all new distributor and ended up being the oil pressure sensor. Thanks for the video help me out
Glad it helped! I was pretty sure it wasn't the oil pressure sensor since it did eventually crank and run and the oil pressure was reading normal.
My 95 Yukon 5.7 ltr engine stalk out when put in gear I have changed every sensor on the throttle body and about to throw in the towel I do not know what else to do I was thinking that this could be the issue but after watching and reading previous commenters I am highly doubting it,any advice will be greatly appreciated , thanks! Great vid !!
Thanks! I think if you had an issue with the EGR solenoid stuck open, it'd run rough at idle (lean). Did you check all the vacuum lines? Did you check the MAP sensor? The only other area I can think of is a clogged catalytic converter or an issue with your transmission (torque converter stuck in lockup mode maybe?) Good luck!
Lion Heart sounds like your tourqe converter is failing.
is it giving you codes?? Have you checked it? What does it say? If you say you changed every sensor around the throttle body, perhaps it may not be that, also check if you’re getting good gasoline pressure. Check the fuel filter. If not that, a bad spark plug, or maybe a rotor isn’t creating a good spark. Also one time, I accidentally had one of my plug wires on the left passenger of the manifold contacting while hot and burned the wire down. Shit happens
How can you know that it’s not the valve causing the code 32
Wat does it to to how other vehicles run or don't run. Tell me how the vehicle runs wen it's bad
can it cause the truck to die when its running ??
Thanks. I went and bought a ECM (OBD 1) Code reader for $29.99 Paperclip huh..... Dang it... But hey as long as that diaphragm thing moves freely it's ok right? I'm working on a 87 Pontiac Firebird 2.8 V6 and got Codes 32, 33, 34, and 45. After the cars runs for a couple minutes check engine light comes on and it almost stalls, then idles rough at about 600 RPM. I'll check the solenoid. Thanks for posting.
The diaphragm can have a hole in it and still move when you squeeze it. To check for that, squeeze and put your finger over the vacuum nipple. If the diaphragm stays put when you let go of it, it's good. If it returns to the unsqueezed position...there's a leak in the diaphragm.
Hello I have a 93 Chevy Silverado 2500 5.7 Im not getting any codes ,I checked my fuel pump it shoots fuel, I replaced fuel filter, fuel relay, distributor cap and rotor and it will only start when I spray starting fluid and hold the throttle once I let off it dies out, any suggestions? Thank you !
Did you figure it out?
Thanks homie
Let me know when you get to the cruise control I'd love to see what your book says on it
I have a 1993 350 sport and I am getting codes 12 which is fine but I also have 22 throttle position sensor low voltage i just replaced it that code could also be fuel cutoff relay shorted to ground which I have no idea where that is. Is that the same thing as a fuel pump relay?? Code 32 egr solenoid and code 35 idle air control system problem can not set desired rpm and this was changed twice within a week the first one was a faulty IAC so I took it to O'Rileys and had them warranty the old one for a new one and is now throwing this code any suggestions on what I should do
I'm having an issue where it sounds like it's piping popcorn in the exhuast and that's causing it to run rough then eventually stall out, but always cranks over no issue, I know it's a misfire but I'm not sure what's causing it, I've replace map sensor, retimed, full tune up including plugs fuel filter wired distributer cap and rotor.... it's fine when you give it gas to go on the streets, but parking it or going slow like 10 mph it starts idling rough... any help would be appreciated
blake hargrow i have the same problem bro let me know if you found some type of solution to it
How was the truck running that caused this problem? I have a 1992 Chevy 5.7L Silverado that runs rough when cold but runs great at normal running temp. And my gas mileage is horrible right now. Any help is appreciated.
+Jim Morrow Because the EGR never opened, it ran fine cold or hot. The only issue was the CEL that came on when it wanted the EGR to open. I would suspect an idle air control issue or bad temp sensor in your case.
I got code 54 and 58 today. What should I change out?
thanks for video help alot
You're welcome Tony!
well done..and done here!
Is there a code book online?
I have a 93 Chevy 1500 I did everything you did on your still have problems cranking it
Good info. Thanks for sharing.
Was your truck running like it was stumbling when accelerating
No, the EGR never opened so I was only getting a check engine light when it called for the EGR to open.
95 k1500 5.7L set code 32 after installing true dual exhaust, no idling issues or driving issues but light will come on once getting up over 55mph. Changed egr valve about a year ago, leaned all passages and check for vacuum leaks and egr valve still holds vacuum. Any ideas? Everything was working great and no issues once the new exhaust was put in. And still is running great with lots of power, any help?
My truck would set the code at cruising speed too with no drive-ability issues and it turned out the solenoid was bad (cracked).
Just weird how after putting duals on, I'm getting this code. I will check the solenoid and probably replace it to get that out of the way. But do you think not having enough back pressure or the o2 sensor reading off one bank could be a problem? I have 2 cats and 2 mufflers, one one each side. I hooked up a scanner to it and the scanner says(while driving over 55mph) that the egr called for the valve to open but it's at 0%. I pushed it manually and the egr valve open, (ran rough) as well as putting a hand vaccum pump to it, and also bypassed the solenoid and went straight from the intake to the egr valve and it wouldn't move, even though it sucks good and you can hear the vacuum leak. (I was in park when I did this.) I'll try replacing the solenoid and get back if anyone has this same problem. Any advice is welcome!
@@Robbieg68 I think a new solenoid will solve the issue but also double check your vacuum lines going to the solenoid.
@@farmboy30117 I replaced the solenoid as well as I reinstalled the factory EGR valve at the same time. In doing this, I notice a ground near the passenger side behind the block was not attached. This ground comes from the frame-to-firewall-to-block. I think my issue was that the ground was not secure, If anyone has this problem, check your grounds. Not sure if replacing the solenoid or back to the original egr valve fixed the issue as I had a tee with a gauge in between the solenoid and the egr with a scanner plugged in and indicate something is wrong as soon as the light would come on but the solenoid(old/factory) would still show a vacuum through the gauge and the EGR valve would still open. Most likely the ground in my case, I could replace the egr valve and solenoid again to test, I don't have a check engine light after driving over 100miles. maybe the guy that installed my exhaust happened to mess with this ground and forgot, only ever set off code 32 right after picking my truck up from him. Hope this helps anyone with same issue.
I have a 1993 ChevyG10 4.3 Van I need to no were do the upper vacuum hose from the egr vacuum solenoid plug into
John Bostock throttle body?
Thanks for the video.. I got a 1991 Chevy Silverado check engine light on.. Throwing a 12 and 15 code.. What can It be?
+Chito Lopez a "12' code is normal. It will flash 3 times before and after any set codes. A "15" code is the engine temperature sensor circuit indicating low temperature. Probably need to replace the temperature sensor but check the wiring to make sure they are intact. The sensor is on the front of the engine near the alternator.
+farmboy30117 I just replaced it and no more check engine light.. Now I'm getting a check gauges and my temperature gauge is all the way to red.. What can It be?
Either your engine is overheating, bad sensor, or have a hard ground on the circuit (or bad connection).
Hey quick? What symptoms did ur truck have before replacing the sensor
Other than the check engine light coming on, Did you notice any other symptoms of the car?
No, it'll run fine without the EGR.
farmboy30117 I took my old egr out and the port was purposely plugged up with some kind of epoxy. With it installed it will stay running when I hold the diaphragm open with my hand. Soon as I let go it dies. Makes wonder how in the hell it ran with it plugged up then..
how much was that sylanoid? my truck is doing the exact same thing with the light and my cruise control stopped workin a few days ago too
They're not expensive. check out rockauto.com
I have a 1989 Chevy Silverado 1500 have a new motor it smoke running rich have a code 32 replace the egr value reset ECM still have a code 32 still running rich
I'm not doubting the problem or how you fixed it. But your dash panel layout doesn't look like a '93. Dads is a '93 Silverado and his panel is way different. I don't believe it'll make much of a difference within the year ranges, as far as electronics and computer programming. Just configuration and slight design differences. Not barking at ya or calling you anything. Just observing a difference.
That's interesting... I wonder if his is an early '93 and they had a carry over of the '92 style gauges. Unless someone has changed these out before I got of course...
They did do "mid year" changes on vehicles to run parts out. You can tell by vin number somehow. I've dealt with a Ford Escort that specifically needed to have "an 83 and a half" added to the description to get the correct parts. I've also seen first hand that a John Deere 744H changed designs of the injectors somewhere in that production range. That left it open to a scenario where you may get an injector that looks extremely similar, but is in fact specifically different from the injector you need. In this particular case, the vin number wasn't useful in determining the difference. It was a change on the fly that left it as a hit or miss, or 50/50 chance of getting the injectors we needed. The model and vin numbers encompassed both designs without mention of the change on the fly. The John Deere service technician that came to the shop didn't even know this. We got the wrong ones at first. Upon discovering the slightly different dedign, he investigated and found the design change, without accompanying, added notices that would have allowed for the correct, exact design match. And at $1200.00 per injector, plus service tech hourly rate, plus dowtime, plus, plus, plus...you can imagine the cost of being wrong. Mazda B Series pickup dashes are Ford. They're plastic casted with "Ford" right on them. Interchangeable. The 1996 Geo Tracker is a year all its own. Design change from '95 to '96. Turns out that the '96 model design was prone to guage panel issues. A lot. Rather than do a mid year change, they redesigned it completely for '97. So prior to '96, certain years were interchangable. '97 and certain future years had interchangable parts. '96 was a monster all its own. Which made it difficult to find cerain parts without paying through every orifice. I would say it's very plausible of a mid year, on the fly change with your pickup. Or, someone else changed it. Nothing to worry about unless you have unexplained, reoccurring problems that don't match the years common flaw list. It could be a lemon. A Monday or Friday truck. Either way, your video was informative. And I thank you for it.
You're welcome! Thanks for the info!
I have a 94 chevy and when I run about 25 m.p.h. it sounds like it has a monster cam in it.any idea what it could be?
Might be right where the exaust manifold and and exaust meet. The connecting brackets ware and it sounds crazy. I fixed mine with furnace cement for $10
I got code32 when I'm on the interstate or driving fast the check engine light comes on vehicle seems to struggle going up hills at higher speeds like it's got a loss of power and when you first crank the vehicle and idles up and down up and down
Code 12 is all i am getting over and over 95 chevy 5,0
Code 12 is normal. It should flash 12 three times then any codes that are stored and then 12 three more times, so if all it is flashing is 12, then no codes are stored.
Este es el mejor sistema
Good information, Thanks.
You're welcome!
Man my vent filter on mine was off and I’m having same issues.
Do u supposed to cap of filter port or leave filter on it
Leave the filter on it. It pulls in air to release the vacuum as needed.
Thanks someone had a cap over filter port
great video I love it I don't remember you saying what the problem was what was the problem that that solenoid caused?
Thanks! It really didn't cause any issues other than the Check Engine light coming on when it called for the EGR to open.
wow great video man thanks for getting back to me dude appreciate it
thanks for sharing
I never heard you mention the symptom you were trying to cure if a truck throws a code but it's running fine who cares?
The only symptom was the check engine light would come on at highway speeds whenever it commanded the EGR solenoid to open.
Where can I get a manual like you have for a 94 GMC 5.7?
eBay
I got a 92 getting the same trouble code man
I Have a 1993 gmc chevy 4x4 305 lots of gas power going to everything still no spark would any one know the problem would be appreciated thanks.
Check your ground
My truck runs fine until 55 or 60 and then it starts missing. I got the code 12 32 and 35
Stetson Mitchell did you ever figure out the problem? My suburban started shaking when a red light or accelerating. Do you know what it can be?
👍
I don't know what else to do
holy fuck and i been wondering how to check the codes cuz i got a 95
what does the code 15 22 and 43 mean ?
+Julian Lopez Code 15 is set if the engine coolant temp sensor circuit is open for 3 seconds (low temp), Code 22 is set if the throttle position sensor circuit voltage is low (or open) for 3 seconds, and code 43 is not listed in my '93 chevy manual. I don't know what year you're referring to, but it may be listed in the Haynes or Chilton's manuals.
Thanks man... I'll try this ...
Does that little filter stay on there?
yes
nice video
+john dillinger Thanks!
your cruise control goes through the brake switch! if your cruise dont work you need a new brake switch!
I know, such a pain to get to under there though!
Kool
MAP sensor not sillynoyd.