1993 Chevy Silverado Poor Idle Problem Solved (EASY)
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- čas přidán 18. 02. 2022
- The part used in this video is a GP Sorensen Fuel Pressure Regulator 88-225 with a 3-year warranty from Autozone. I hope this helps!
Also, the spot weld on the old pressure regulator is from the factory OEM. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Excellent in every way. Thank you.
Good vid, I have a 92, 350 with high idle. Also my heater door does the same things. We call it slappy.
I had a similar problem and found out my fuel pump was bad. I replaced it and everything went good runs great
I have been chasing the same problem on my 94 Astro.
Good information
That spot weld on the Pressure Reg is a factory weld from GM, It is supposed to be there so it cannot be adjusted. Set screw is under it.
Hello, thank you for the comment! Have a great day and God bless you!
I like how one of u is right but I be sayin which one is it
@@wildestcowboy2668 Huh?...I am right.
We need more guys like you on CZcams that explain things clearly like you did and start and run the engine when you are done!!!! Excellent video!!!!!!!! Need more of you guys!! By the way ,,, do you live in Redding California by chance,, cause I’d rather give a guy like you my hard earned moneys!!!!!!!
Hello, thank you for the kind comment. Have a great weekend!
You need to do more research. You called almost everything wrong. All you did was replace the parts. Did you scan the codes first? No. Did you try cleaning the injectors first? No. Did you check any temperature sensors? No. You flat out got some what lucky.
Thumbs up on the detailed info on some of the key factors. But on the down side of the video I didn't think you was gonna ever get passed how you tested injector simultaneously
Great information 👍
Nice this helped me!!…
Hello GQ diagnostics, I have a similar problem I was wondering if u can post the part number and can I use it on my 91 c1500 ,I can only find it for a 93 c1500,thank you
Thanks for video my truck is doing the same thing idleing high one minute then down next die after I be start it or putting it in reverse
Your tech weld on the bottom of your regulator down. There is to keep it set to factory doing various arrangements down there same with your screw down there that has been tack welded
Hello! Thank you for posting your comment to the channel, I appreciate it. Have a great day and God bless you 🙏
Do u know if the 93 Chevy truck part would be the same for a 92 Chevy caprice ?
My friends truck goes after 2nd gear but then just stops pulling but the engine is still on
What website did you purchase it from. My local auto parts does not sell that part
Thanks 😊 🙏
That weld is from the factory, the factory sets it were it needs to be and put a weld over the hole so you can't change it from the factory adjustment
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
The problem I have with my 92 the colder the weather the idle is 1500 to 2000 even on a warm start the idle is high. I put it in gear on a cold start I'm afraid of spinning a bearing
you are wrong. The weld is done at the factory do no one will try to adjust it. The aftermarks come with the set screw hole open. .
Thank younfor he comment. However, the factory doesn't do a crappie weld job. Thank you for your opinion. 👍
They're defnitely soldered from factory
You are right sir
@@gqautodiagnostics sorry, he's right..mine looks exactly the same
@@gqautodiagnostics factory deffinetly does shit welds lol
Sometimes it's easier to throw a carbeurator and fuel regulator at it
I be sayin that but fuel mileage and my AC blow so cold
@@wildestcowboy2668 true, if a guy had the money a holley sniper fuel injection kit would be ideal
@@brazenhammer3307 no one, it doesn't matter Ford Chevy or whatever, makes higher quality parts made to last 100,000 miles than the factory parts.
Snipers maybe sexy and have a nice name but there's no way they're going to last for 100 to 200,000 miles.
I'm not knocking the Holley sniper, I'm just saying the factory makes things are made to last almost the life of a vehicle. No aftermarket company has been able to match that kind of quality.
Carburetors don't throw codes. Carburetors don't need O2 sensors throttle position sensors, and all that other BS.
I'm old, that's why I like old school. 😁
@@brazenhammer3307 I be got a 88 Chevy Silverado so could I be puttin da holley sniper u be sayin on it g
Good job
Hello, thank you for the comment. I do appreciate it. Have a great and blessed day 🙏
Nice video
Thank you for your comment.
1994 Chevy Silverado 1500 the heater
Thank you
You are welcome.
What was the problem??
Where did you get the upper assembly for the tbi? Where did you get that new fuel regulator assembly?
My idle in my 92 is all over the place, rebuilt tbi. Replaced every sensor on it.
I got it from autozone
I have low idle runs ruff
My 92 5.7 has an idle surge after it is fully warmed up. It seems like it misses and surges every 5-10 seconds for a half second but keeps running.
U ever get the POS fixed? Mine doing same thing
@@wildestcowboy2668mine too replaced all kinds of parts already too
I put new AC Delco injectors in my 92 to see if I could clear up some ping under low rpm load in 4th gear. New injectors cleaned up my already fairly smooth idle but now she will start to loop at idle after a fully warmed up engine on shutdown/heatsoak restarts. Doesn't happen once I drive a few feet. If I keep it in park it will loop drastically and sometimes die. Drives fine otherwise, starts cold no problem. Doesn't die or rough idle once you get rolling a few mph. Got to be a sensor getting warm and cooling off once you get rolling or something in the primitive computer on fully warmed restarts.
I would like to know where did you buy the new complete fuel pressure regulator Component?
Hello. I bought it from autozone.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Keep me posted.
So I'm not the only one with a v6 in one of these trucks
There was a blue million with v6. Mostly the work truck edition. Those 4.3 are really great motors , they just don’t get any better mileage than the v8 s. Basically a 350 with 2 less cylinders.
I got 398k on my V6 and only had one clutch ....keeps on going
@@wildestcowboy2668I got 80k on mine lol
😂😂😂😂😂I'm screaming 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 that weld was done at the factory, it's never been touched since
Thank you for your comment!! I appreciate it
So I just got the saw truck an I hear you have the same thumping noise under the passenger side dash. My question is have you diagnosed that thumping?
Hello. Thank you for posting your question. Yes, the noise is coming from the blend door actuator. Jeep me posted. Have a great day and God bless you.
It could be the HVAC air door actuator. I had a 2008 Impala With the same symptoms. Pain in the a** to replace. Good luck
@@jbbadvet yes, it could be the same problem.
I had the same issue I thought it was the flap for the heater duct etc. but it turned out to be the radio coming through the speakers
Thank you for such info.
M Nabeel from Baghdad.
My job as wireman only .
Namely, I deal with harness ,starter, alt, relays,
Fusebox.
My problem has been
Wiring diagram of the ECM
That control the TBI engine.Currently, just finishing harness of 1982
Chevy pickup from carbo
To TBI . Would you please
Send me the wiring diagram of the ECM controls the TbI.
Cordially.
(Alias name)
Tom .
So I'm having that issue kind of. When I unplug my passenger side it stays running but when I unplug the driver it dies. So the one that's unplugged I change the opsite injector? I don't have much cash so I gotta get it right the first time
Did u ever get the POS fixed yet?
@@wildestcowboy2668 changed injector and turned up throttle kicker worked great
what brand of parts you use where you get them
Hello. I got the part from autozone. Let me know if you have more questions. Have a great day and God bless you 🙏
The video is interesting and that's all
Many people asked for spare parts numbers. Didn't answer. Badly.
Hello, thank you for posting your comment, I really appreciate it. The information that you need is posted in the description area of the video. I hope it helps. God bless you and have a great day 🙏
So both i disconnected one and it dies right away does it mean i need new injectors
Did you check the fuel pressure?
Hi there brother like your videos..
I have a 92 Yukon 2 door.
Idles prefect starts right up but then when I'm ready to leave Tha house dies on me... Don't know what to do... I'm here in phx AZ.. If you can call me or I can call you please help me. Thank you again for your effort
It may be a likely fuel delivery / pressure problem; clogged fuel filter or fuel pump starting to go or clogged injectors
On the drivers side frame rail underneath the gas tank is where you'll find the fuel filter.
Mine starts and shuts off when I disconnect either of the injectors
Mine also.
That regulator is adjustable the factory or factory style are not
are they acdelco
Hi I have 1994 Chevy 2500 454 motor! When I gas it! It pauses for a few secs then takes off! The when idling it sounds like it’s ready to turn off! I was thinking it was the map sensor! I gunna try buying the small stuff first hopefully it works out! Thank u for the video
sounds like when my dad's fuel pump was dying... he has a 1994 350 tbi c1500
Did you ever figure out the issue on yours? Mines doing the same thing
Same
I know this is a late response but might help someone out there.I have the same motor on a 1995 Suburban.Took distributor to replace the ICM.Put it back together and vehicle was doing same thing as described above.Did the timing and that fixed the problem.
@@kambomwangi6704 distributor timing?
Hello, I am trying to find the cause but only when the motor is warm / at operating temperature. 1995 GMC Suburban with 5.7 TBI. When cold, it starts up fine and runs at the high idle until the motro warms up. Then, at operating temperature, the RPM's will surge. Stays around 800 RPM but will drop down ot around 500 and keep fluctuating. When you put the truck into drive or reverse, the motor will stall out a majority of time and sitting in park, if you go above 1500 RPM, the motor will stumble, act like its missing. But...If you are on the road driving, non of this is noticable. I have replaced the exhaust system from the catalytic converter back, new O2 sensor as well as MAP and temperature coolant sensor. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you.
Hello. Thank you for posting your question. Have you checked the fuel pressure and injectors yet?
@@gqautodiagnostics Hello, The injectors appear to be spraying a cone and no dripping. Unfortunatly, I can not chack the fuel pressure, this system does not have the valve on the supply line like the newer GM motors.
@@duginvirginia5737 thank you for getting back to me. You can rent the tool to check the fuel pressure at autozone or any other auto parts store it will come with the adapter to install it in the fuel filter so you can check the fuel pressure. Keep me posted.
@@gqautodiagnostics Thank you for your help and suggestion. Will do. Since posting this question, I made a short video and posted it to my CZcams channel; nothing more than a visual of what we have discussed here. Thank you.
@@gqautodiagnostics Greetings...The problem with my vehicle was identified as a severly neglected distributor cap and rotor. The contact plunger and spring inside of the cap was nothing more that a hard dust as it crumbled when I touched it ! All of the contact points were very durty and corroded. We chanded them out with new OEM parts and this corrected the stalling out issue when put into gear as well as the stallings / RPM surging when sitting at idle. Went on a 20 minute road test with no issues. There is a noticable miss at 3000 RPM and above, but nothing like what we experienced before. I have an new OEM set of wires and awaiting new OEM spark plugs to arrive and I am hopeful once those items are changed out, it completely fixes the issue, but, as stated, changing the cap and rotor fixed the stalling and shutting down issue when placed into gear. Thank you for your time and help.
I wish you could have showed how you replaced all that!!!
Park the car or truck overnight. Get about three shop rags, put on underneath both injectors and one at the back of the tbi to catch fuel. Wear safety glasses and make sure you get the right torx bit and unscrew all the top screws. The back ones are longer so keep track of where they go. The whole top unit will come off the top of the injectors and there are four more screws holding on the regulator(round and spring loaded). Keep pressure applied until all four screws are removed and slowly release the cylinder for the regulator. Pretty easy just don't spray fuel in your eyes and don't drop any screws into the motor.
What's that clunking in the dash? My truck does that....
Hello. Good question. That sounds is coming from the bottom of the dash is a door blend actuator. Good luck and keep me posted.
the solider is factory it is so no adjustment possible
Hello! Thank you for the comment! I appreciate the input that you offered. Have a great day and God bless you 🙏
@@gqautodiagnostics got the same issue, put new fuel tank, pump, in as it needed it, all new fuel lines fuel filter to the TBI unit, plugs, wires, temp sensor, iac valve, egr valve, all been replaced, truck ran fine and sat for a week and ran like crap is why I am doing all this I guess injectors are next
Lol that’s a factory weld dude
Thank you for posting your comment! Merry Christmas and happy new year!
You never showed if it idles in gear
Hello, thank you for posting your comment, yes, it did idle in gear and that was the problem with the truck.
Truck stalled
Hi
Write TBI top number