how we destroyed archive fashion
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- čas přidán 25. 05. 2024
- From early eBay days to drip dropping look competitions, we have reached a point of pretentious name dropping that is supposed to cover personality and enhance fake identity.
Is it the Raf Simons 2002 bomber that you want or does it have to be the Helmut Lang parka? You can also always buy into Yohji Yamamoto to appear more intellectual, cause that's what it's all about correct? Oh or Prada, if you want to visibly say no to the classical beauty standard.
Fashion is usage of language reduced to clothing pieces or accessories.
We loved using that language when we felt misunderstood by commercial designers, it was amazing to express yourself finally exactly the way you wanted to.
But something about our language and inevitably the pieces we liked to choose, changed. It got misinterpreted, put into different context and lost its value for us.
I hope you still can find joy in digging for the best fashion archive pieces, that make you happy, but of course only if its COMME des GARÇONS, Yohji, Junya Watanabe, Jun Takahashi's Undercover, Carol Christian Poell, Martin Margiela, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Prada, Dior by Hedi Slimane or Raf SIMONS. lol.
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Been trying to name this phenomenon for a minute and you said what I've been thinking - archive fashion now feels like sneakerhead culture of the 2010's. And on the celeb front - it's just famous clothes for famous people, and fame IS the identity. Also so much of this mirrors the way popular culture has been going wrt film, TV and music, just reusing the same IP over and over to death.
The old Céline Phoebe Philo collectors are like a cult 😂
I’m one of them 🪦
The internet ruined exclusivity across the board not just in fashion. Nothing is sacred.
Its not the internet its just everything getting ruined by the current economic system that has to exploit and appropriate every subculture until its mainstream and dead. This happend to everything and will always happen. Thats why you gatekeep so money and business doesnt ruin your favourite hobby/culture etc.
be the pile of trash 🌸💮💮
on the bright side, people are preserving clothes better
Rare items are indeed abundantly available and we as buyers are tricked into thinking, "oh this is such a rare piece, I bet I won't see it on anyone else" and we end up paying high prices for those pieces.
Slayin in that all black 'Sarah Connor' fit Tuba!
I love this Tubaa. I love when you said I archive and wear it. Thats the whole point right ❤
hold up. Why was this so fucking spot on!!! I agree with everything you've said. It is something especially recently I think has become a trend for even non-fashion people lets say I think due to tik tok or just social media in general. I have one friend that will literally tell me all the designer shit she has in her closet or name drop every brand she wears and it is so annoying. Like how many people nowadays are buying Margiela now just because they see other "fashion" girlies also wearing them on tik tok and deeming them cool? I love fashion and I am guilty of loving archive fashion. I think with archive pieces we know that to a certain extent the pieces were still of high quality, created and lead by fashion legends and in many cases hadn't been seen before. Now luxury brands worry about sales and how commercial their collections are to ensure they sell well.
I feel like 2017 social media over saturated and took away a lot of the allure of fashion
if my aesthetic can be defined as anything it's probably "archive" generally speaking, but i find that it's just so much more than whatever the 5 digit pieces are thesedays. i don't really care about early 00s raf, but i love mid 00s julius; same for hedi slimane and golem respectively or what have you. i think the process of finding these cool and sometimes very unknown and undervalued clothes is the fun part, not really the pursuit of owning expensive chase pieces. lovely video :)
golem goes hard😮💨😮💨
at 12 tubaa!?? you were early in the game . i started by getting into sneakers
great video and interesting thoughts regarding wielding archive as a mark of taste and exclusivity. tbh I see how industrial use of these garments can be icky and insidious. but to me its still fun! as someone who doesnt have the bougie impulse to collect outside of personal wear its fun to see the stylists put together a marketing package for their clients. I guess its just so transparent to me that the clients are buying the service for their career that i dont really see them as personally responsible for any of the fashion moment itself?
To me i think marketing is an incredibly important part of fashion, and branding is a core instrument in any sort of luxury production. these clothes (especially hc) were consciously designed for the powerful! I think community can and does exist outside of that game. I dont think competition and community are exclusive, noones trying to wear the same pair of pants at the same time. the key is to keep it moving and actually curate what you love. if it doesnt make you feel special anymore, great! find something new that does and flip your collection to the soccer moms for top dollar. property is theft!
This was such a new topic for me. So interesting to see modern archive guys compared to hypebeast bois. Since Tuba is ahead of the curve on these things it will be curious to see how folks approach archive fashion going forward
It's a NEW VIDEO!!! 💞 Much love from NC.
Hope archive Zara will never be a thing
It already is! I work with a lady who has a few Zara pieces from 10 years ago that i can honestly say I was shocked by their design quality. I own nothing Zara personally.
Too late.
I have been seeing zara resellers on eBay for years already, even back in 2014, I unfortunately believe that it is just a matter of time until ppl will start calling it archive zara :(
it already is although I dont think anyone can truly consider it "archive" in the sense that nobody is dreaming about that one special zara item because it doesnt exist. In Paris and on Vinted used Zara is very prevelent.
The horror 🥲
I hear all the Rick kids wearing plain black t shirts saying it’s archive smth…
XD
If they keep going then one day they might be wearing vintage ;)
This is exactly how I feel about this whole situation. Especially the whole situation about supporting , or better not at all - enough supporting emerging brands on red carpets, and during other very public moments, is a huge problem. But they don`t/can`t pay for it. Ronald van der Kemp said in one interview that Celine Dion is one of the very few famous people who are paying for all of her clothes- red carpet included- and says that she thinks that this should be the normality for everyone who made it , aka can afford it.
Dear Tuba, this relevant video - and meaning it not because it mirrors my opinion- brings me back to the content I always loved of you the last years. The last months, I was sometimes questioning in which direction your content is growing, it felt a little all over the place with sometimes, for me questionable content. And I am NOT talking of the horoscope video, that was entertaining. I do understand that it was/is a very different situation from doing it part-time to a full-time job. Great job, thank you.
Genuinely its cause fashion back designers back then were just simply better at creating a truly cohesive and inspired, high quality collection , its why I personally only purchase archive. Now im definitely not for upcharging reckless prices profiting off of it, but hey, all the luxury shit brands like Chanel and bottega veneta charge wayyyy more
Thank you for sharing your take on all this, very interesting. This whole conversation touches so many areas and topics at the same time that i think there's multiple answers and explanations. If you've been following few designers and other industry people who are outspoken, a lot of the transitions and changes have been talked about or predicted since some of these practices like archiving weren't even proper known concepts to public. Fashion in itself is ever evolving (not just in the bad way) and when you look into it a lot of big brands really are also trying to keep up with how fast the world is going to continue to be relevant while keeping the "status" they used to have. I like the way you split it in eras because that's what they are. As much as hypebeast culture is now negatively connotated, at Its peak it was an era that changed everything. that people enjoyed and felt part of, just like archiving. (I feel like these days we fail to enjoy or evolve collectively because of the judgement and comparison we all want to make compared to before) Maybe we've grown to turn into the purists/gatekeepers ourselves.. but what do i know¿
Thank you for this one Tuba!
This is so interesting! I learned a lot. Thanks
It used to be when you'd show off a rare collectable item, you weren't flexing about money or popularity or "coolness", you were sort of sharing an interest with someone who "got it". "I'm wearing [rare thing]" is meaningless to a normie, but to another insider is amazing. While it can maybe be a little competitive sometimes, it's usually more sharing an appreciation and being happy that something is "saved" from oblivion by someone else who shares your respect and understanding. I get that people choose clothes for a variety of reasons depending on their values; but niche collectable/archiving seems to be a small niche group no matter the style.
"I'm wearing [expensive thing with famous name]" serves a totally different purpose. Sadly I've seen that same behavior take over other (non-fashion) "collectables" and they always stink (and irrationally drive up prices too).
(Every time a specific type of antique gets trendy, real collectors groan.)
Mostly it’s the celebs and random IG influencers who will go back to buying zara to make a video with views. But it hike the prices of certain things unnecessarily
Stellar video as always, Tuba! I like mentioning the designers I wear if they're niche (and, I believe, should be more known). But namedropping big houses is like advertising for them -- do they need that? do you need that free advertising labor? nope.
I totally agree with everything you said about fashion and where it's going.
im glad youre sharing your view point on this, everything has became way too accessible that most people have become lazy. instead of searching for the things that appeal to them its the constant begging of "do you have a link", no passion, no drive, just laziness.
link out of love
Regarding celebs in archive fashion or just dressed in "fashion" as a character building exercise , I think this is easily attributed to having a stylist on call. These stylists are usually "clothes horses" (I find the term hilarious and had to use it) themselves and also have connections to collectors , magazines , brands and high fashion houses. I def agree the internet era and "digitalization" of fashion had built us up to this point , hopefully it's coming to a head...idk. It is strange to sit back and think about all of this. There is a gross symbiotic / parasitic relationship happening. The brands are using the person or personality as a platform to build their cultural relevance or "cred" especially towards certain communities. The person is saying " I am relevant in this space , I am a complex artiste with refined taste , appreciate me , be inspired by me and hire me". I do think that there are celebs who are genuinely inclined toward the avant garde. Weirdos like us (Pharrell?). Pharrell may have opened the floodgates for all the other musicians. At the end of the day we want people to be themselves. Everyone can still see that you are a "Grade A Basic B" under your archive dress.
Can we just blame the Kardashians for all of this and call it a day?
Last sentence: a little simplistic but exactly my thought. When they started with it, it was the end.
Wow! That was such an interesting topic. You have strong opinions. I love listening to you. It makes me question my beliefs and opinions. Thank you. In summary, be authentic. For 3 years I haven't been able to wear what I like for work. We had a uniform. I've never felt before that that would be a problem. I thought that it's quite cool to not have to think about what you need to wear. But now, after 3 weeks in new job, I can wear whatever I like and it felt weird in the beginning, but now I really feel that it is freeing to be able to express myself through clothes. And now I finally can, but I don't know how. I try to figure out what I like and I don't. And I really don't want anyone to ever tell me what to wear and what I look good in in their opinion. Cause only what I want and how I want to be perceived matters. It is truly amazing. And I also get your example, when you see celebrities in "cool" or "beautiful" expensive clothes, you sometimes only see how uncomfortable they are, because the product they are promoting on them doesn't relate in any way to who they are.
You really said it. Thanks, this was great
I really like how your hair is in this video
Straight to the point
I feel like capitalism or rather capitalist ideas really skyrocketed into our subconscious minds through social media ngl. everything is made into a trend at this point, everything has to be categorized into different cores and aesthetics and it just doesn't feel genuine anymore just because I at least get the impression that most of the people into fashion rn see it as a trend and just buy into it therefore raising the prices on all the piece. But I rarely get the impression that these influencers are actually interested in those pieces or the fashion in general. they just do it bc its niche and its guaranteed that they'll get a lot of views if they mention Junya or rick. But I feel like this too will pass just like the supreme hype beast area bc it won't be profitable forever
Interesting topic. 🤔
there are new young designers right now in our period of time who will be the future legends please for the love of fashion look into young new upcoming designers support future fashion by supporting the young designers now.
Tuba we need a hair tutorial.
I really love your top in this video, where is it from?
Absolutely agree👏
Didn't archive fashion change when all of the ex-Hypebeasts started getting into it? The saga of Ken vs. Giz over the Raf Riot Bomber would seem to be pivotal in this narrative...or am I too deep in CZcams fashion lore by this point?
Please dont touch my Uniqlo doesn't have the same ring to it
everything that is pure will always be ruined in the end🤷🏽
9:44
the thesis of this video
yaaaay 🎉❤
There's always been a large business focus to fashion...
9:45 - THIS
"How archive fashion ruined Raf Simon's brand"
Rehash Generation
the pretentious status signaling from people who don’t care… it’s sick!!
Why do you say "Welcome to my HUGE channel"? What's huge about it?
What would we do without you our spokesperson 🧎🏼♀️
💅✨💋💄
i appreciate the archivists but if you not doing anything educational or of value with the clothes I think buying them to keep it locked in a room is stupid
To me it’s memory and the satisfaction of finally getting what I wanted as a kid who couldn’t afford it back then.
🧍🏽
Hmmmmm……I missed something…what is OG?
original
Original Gangsta
@@alamedadanceparty thanks. 😊
@@Jasmine-in-my-mind thanks ☺️
When weebs make archive their whole personality 🫠
a slay is a slay is a slay