THE ARCHIVE FASHION PROBLEM
Vložit
- čas přidán 22. 05. 2024
- follow me on instagram: karsten_kroening
0:00 intro
1:07 the history of archive
5:12 the golden age
7:58 the end of the golden age
10:53 archive revial
in this video I talk about archive fashion including brands such as:
Rick Owens, Raf Simons, Jean Paul Gaultier, Margiela, Carol Christian Poll Issey Miyake, Guidi, Yohji Yamomoto, Comme Des Garcons Home Plus, Julius, Dirk Bikkembergs, Undercover, Number (N)one, Helmut Lang, Prada, Dior, Hedi Slimane, Kapital, Vivene Westwood, Craig Green, Ann demeulemeester, Walter Van Bierendonck, Dries Van Noten, Alexander McQueen, ifsixwasnine, lgb le grande blue, 14th addiction, YASUYUKI ISHII backlash isamu katayama, and more - Jak na to + styl
I think archive died when drake wore the bomber
😭😭😭
Raf subsequently retired after the incident
Not really normal people don’t really know much about these brands it’s a very niche category we’re in thinking everyone knows what we wear but really they just see a leather jacket and leather pants and boots or a white teee but they don’t care about cuts or shapes the story behind pieces
it died when tiktok kids thought it was a style of clothing rather than the state of the clothing
It died after TikTok was introduced to it
Obviously, it's evolving until we have people cosplaying early 2000's anime characters as casual outfits
? is there anything wrong with that???????????????????????????? how is it cosplaying??????????????????????????????????????????? -
?? have you ecer seen someone wear such clothes irl?
@@spentcomb7864yes I have and it’s fun to see, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with it. We’ve normalized stripper costumes as club outfits, it’s 2024 we might as well normalize all cosplay cause anyone who’s really into fashion ends up with a closet that’s centered around a theme , you’re either soft playing or hard playing . If I wear vans and some dickies with a carhart beanie am I not cosplaying a skater? I think so.
@spentcomb7864 there's nothing wrong with Cosplaying. In fact, I actually have cosplayed myself, and my girlfriend does it a lot as well. While scary at first, when people start to notice the character you are and appreciate it, it becomes a lot of fun! Some people take inspiration from anime on how they style an outfit or dress, even anime itself is inspired by fashion or taps into fashion in some way, i.e. Jojo's Bizarre Adventure, Sailor Moon, and etc. As well as radio Eva and Fat Grand Order Anniversary events clearly being inspired by street wear and fashion. Have I ever seen people cosplay casually outside? From where I live, no, because we are not a huge clothing based focus town, it's niche in here and really the fashion scene here is only people young adults and teens who go thrifting a lot and street wear. Yet I have seen many fashion inspirations from Sailor Moon, the amount of girls that style pink overalls like Sailor Mars iconic outfits seems like it's the only outfit I seen with pink overalls, even my girlfriend sometimes makes an outfit centered around what Sailor Mars would wear casually. Over time we just might see more casual or anime inspired outfits
Been there done that
Once again Reselling kills something ☠️
Capitalism*
@@SunnyExMusicthen leave. You make music to profit from capitalism.
@@JayCantwell everyone is getting their money thrpugh capitalism duh that doesnt mean everyone has to agree w It
@@user-yi1fs7kt4j lol, there are anti capitalist societies right now, go join them, see how that treats u
@@user-yi1fs7kt4j then go to a society that doesn’t function, without capitalism, they’ll accept u lmaooo
Shoutout Silver League and them archive boys for judging the new young generation while also being part of the reason why the pricing is ridiculous now and partaking in the Issey sport hype 🤠
In Fernando we trust 🙏
once people realize profit can be made shit gets ruined
@@fhost.5695for real bro capitalism literally ruins everything good. Eventually all the people doing it for profit push out those doing it for passion.
@@user-pc3io5ji1o its an endless cycle tbf
We will always lose to human greed
the problem with archive is that eventually prices and hype even for this new gen will rise and the cycle will repeat itself again, probably making another wave of clothes way too overpriced and unattainable
fernando with da fake profile haha
@@kostat8836 lol I had this name for a joke comment and youtube won't let me remove it lmao
it's already happening
I remember buying Kazuyuki Kumagai, ripvanwinkle and isuma Katayama off yahoo Japan for like under $50 AUD now I see some of their stuff on archive pages hahahah
same I have been collecting backlash for maybe 2-3 years now
backlash is fuckin taxed now bruh
@@adnlittle it's crazy hey. The yohji collab recently probably didn't help with prices but man it's gone up. The quality is definitely up there though and is probably more relatively priced for the quality.
I hate say tiktok ruined it but man, kids who buy Isamu or Kadoya just to up the price and resell it sucks. Just to flex they have it, they never wear it.
Isamu Katayama has godlike quality, I think it was fun finding it for steal prices but seeing it priced higher feels like it makes more sense, especially since a lot of leather work pieces retailed for alot
What's crazy to me is that I've been following some of those newer archive pages you used as examples in this video and I didn't even know they were considered a new generation. I thought they were just selling lesser known brands. It's really cool to know the history behind this and how the archive scene is evolving. Awesome video.
i love your storytelling. it helps me understand things that are not immediate for me - someone who considers having a good tailor in the city the ultimate holy grail.
Definitely agree, however that mark up is going to come way harder and way quicker with the newer generation, it’s already happening.
Thank you Karsten for the video covering a great topic, I was but a wee lad during the golden age and todays prices coupled with living in Sweden has made archive pretty hard to come by. That being said I am very thankful for content creators such as you who has made a previously niche topic/community more accessible for people who are not in the know.
i dont think wearing kmrii and lgb is really considered “archive” -stylewise, it does have archived pieces but the style is different..a trend now but nonetheless. I do agree with how the instagram fashion pages have been using the word archive for everything
Great vid karsten. Love seeing educational fashion videos like this
really well put together vid man
12:58 Dude got the Red Dead Online season pass.
Really good information, thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Bro I love how you used the little brother track “I see now ft. & produced by Ye” good execution on this video
finally good sound🙄🙏🏻💯thank you pookie
Mother of "Archived Clothes" or more specifically costume sounds is Debby Reynolds. Without her we wouldn't have some early costumes or Hollywood, but I feel like this is probably something totally different.
Great Video Karsten!
explaining what the holy grail like its an obscure reference is so funny good stuff man
evolving for sure n as an old gen im here for it
i feel like a lot of the guys that influenced the hype in archive moved on to vintage / lifestyle oriented stuff (fernando/davil) bc it reminiscing of how cheap and niche archive used to be, while also being able to reference and research on the garments
Had know idea this even existed. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
I like your Givenchy x Chito hoodie ......nice.
Loved your open minded take on new gen archive. Although it's not for me I do agree with "let the kids be kids", it's kinda trash how archive pages hoard and inflate prices but imo the prices/hoarding are also justified to a certain extent because as time goes on it'll naturally be harder to find pieces. I'm not gonna act like I have a super different take on archive, its just facts, things are becoming scarce but this is also why archive as the old gen knew will forever be archive, stamped and engrained into the world of fashion.
Really well put together vid big K!
ngl pandabuy killed fashion and alot of the people buying archive are just trying to differentiate themselves from current "hypebeasts" and pandabuy warriors by buying 1:1 highly intricate pieces
Great video! Thanks!
Here before this blows up on the algorithm🔥
I wonder if there's a psychological correlation between traumatized children who withhold poop and people who obsessedly collect and horde things. Similar to sneakerhead resellers I think more and more people just dislike and have lost respect for those types. I can see a similar situation happening with fashion archivist. It's kind of annoying trying to play with a kid who has hogged all the toys just for himself. That David brat who basically had daddy's money bought all of Raf and a good chunk of Helmut Lang. Good for them.
Hoarding in itself often is a result of trauma/ of course, mental illness in general, so you are absolutely into something - it is linked to OCD.
Check out Freud’s psychosexual theory of development, primarily on anal stage
washer piano outro go hard
I love hearing you talk as if you're a wise old man! What do you know about a brand called Sabotage? Precursor to Stone Island
Who woulda thought, resellers? Getting greedy and ruining it for everyone else? Shocker.
I mean if those clothes aren’t being made anymore what other way would you be able to acquire them other than at resale?
Song at 5:13 is fire in the hole by early sweatshirt, if anyone was wondering🙄
Thank you so much brody I heard one second of the beat and was like I gotta refind this song
whats the song at 10:51
karsten do u have some tip to reach this clothes out of the us or europe, cant find anything in my country ://, excellent video btw
consider the Japanese style genre Onii-Kei Gyaruo (older brother style) as that is what the get-up of most archive outfits reference from the fur jackets to the distressed leather. What makes archive fashion archive is the brands you are wearing not the format. Notice how most of these archived brands that uses this approach are Japanese and how anime uses them
Best CZcamsr in the game rn
When fast fashion is becoming archive , can’t wait ❤️
Can’t wait for the day shein costs thousands of dollars
this whole topic reminds me of discogs sharks with vinyl records :)
death note is so unrecognized today i am glad you mention it
archive fashion is definitely interesting now that its in the hands of tiktokkers and resellers. I'm all for flared i6w9 and even the fur hoodies, but the fact these brands who nobody knew about years ago are all of a sudden spiking in price is just insane.
the brands that got me into archive was 14 affliction, kmrii, and the goldleather, i’m more into dressing up as anime guy then that
This was very insightful. Cheers bro
Also this archive pages sell fakes and I learned that the hard way.
They also can create a false archive items since the collections are poorly documented.
With enough knowledge I’m sure you could dupe people into thinking some no name brand is old or “vintage” and get them to buy some fake clothes
looks like frugal aesthetics editing style, even a similar vid that he’d make
ive seen people sell vintage abercrombie and fitch hoodies under the “if 6 was 9” label for insane amounts
goated background song btw
This shit is all fun but the prices have gotten so crazy. It’s so fucked. It’s not even fun to look at anymore. Archive blowing up on TikTok only made it so that rich kids who know nothing about this shit are willing to spend thousands on shit that would cost hundreds a few years ago. Just to wear something they don’t really understand but more just follow cause others say it’s cool
Video was fire
I think the way archive is used in fashion is fucking cringe. There are true archives within fashion that intentionally collect pieces from pertinent seasons and specific brands because the collector personally identifies with said brand.
Archive outside of fashion and archive within fashion, outside of the influencer space, is generally a term that has historically been used to describe collections and collectors with specific personal intent to hoard and preserve.
You don’t archive things as a business, and you are not an archiver because you like smelly vintage clothing, you do it because you love collecting. You can’t say you’re a collector if you buy a bunch of random clothes to dress up as an anime character, and so you most definitely can’t say you’re an archiver.
Archive fashion has come to represent a very specific set of brands, but there are archives of Dior Homme during Hedi’s tenure at the house, Tom Ford’s Gucci, etc. And yet archive has come to represent the collections of clothes from anti-fashion brands-
If fashion is art, which I believe it is, then archiving is about collecting that art form with specific intent. You’re in it for the art, and the meaning behind that art.
So, saying “I’m an archiver” or that “you’re into archive fashion” is such a cringe way of saying what you actually mean- you’re into vintage clothes and you’re a glorified thrifter at best, if not a very shitty thrifter considering the markup you’re paying for cosplay items.
On the flip side, silver league and archived are asses. I understand the intent behind those pages, but it’s so funny to me when these influencer fashion “archivers” try to upsell Veronique branquinho pieces, old Celine, Balenciaga, etc. or sell used bottega jackets for 3g’s. They’re just glorified sneaker resellers.
Archiving is literally something real collectors dedicate their whole lives to, because more often than not, the thing they’re collecting is either or both extremely difficult to find and prohibitively expensive.
I like this take
speak that speak bby!
Literally rocking Raf Simons on my feet rn
Most of these newer outfits look corny af, but so did people that mixed raf, nine, uc etc. You can see whos got stlye and who is just throwing everything on just to look "different". I mean some individual pieces look good but this whole aesthetic, just throwing all together is stupid to me. You can do much more than this
actually a lot of them freaks do not even understand or respect the design behind these garments before they buy it ,they’re buying it just because they want to show off and proof to everybody else that theyre original or special,they’re the people that is ruining the community
I love your hoodie! Is it archive or can you still buy it?
from which brand and season is the show in 7:23? i need that skirt
credits visual is wow
Missing the old videos...
i think archive designer is not dead its gon come back for sure.but so many people and younger generation are into this ryuk japanese brand cs its pretty cheap and accessible unlike designer archive. but then again its not ab the hype or the trend cs the community is still there and will always be there so keep hunting bro (and for reseller i suggest coping both japanese ryuk brand and archive designer piece trust me.)
great videoo
i started getting into fashion when i watched death note for the first time lmao
bro got that out pfp
I got into fashion because of Jojo bizarre adventure
Good video 🤝
perhaps the kids are buying archival stuff from different designers, because they have different taste. rick is THE brand for basically anyone who has carti's whole discography in a playlist, which is like a third of the people you're referring to when you say kids. honestly, if anyone is getting grumpy about which brands the new gen of 'archivists' are into, they should look into the brands that the generations before them were into.
also raf simmons is like 50, he's literally just a contemporary designer with a back catalogue for the 'old gen of archivists'. it's the exact same thing for kids to be into rick owens, he's a contemporary designer with a back catalogue.
Don’t usually comment but just wanted to say I really appreciate your content, (also can someone give me ID on the hoodie he’s wearing)
Chito Givenchy
generally in general
fashion is expression...keep doing you
holy crap thank yuo bro. now i understand what archive fashion means. now i see.....
Song at the end?
nice hoodie 🙀
Thx for entertaining me, while I drink my homemade Expresso with Oatmeal
oh a Slint cover at the end of the video
There’s also been this strange trend of saying *insert archive brand* is officially dead once black teens start to get ahold of said items it’s super weird
14:10 yo is that a piano cover of washer?
nice video
good job
golden age
0:42 No one is trying to redefine Archive fashion, fashion trends come and they go and some people just gravitate to one style and stick with it. I believe that archive fashion has been becoming more and more popular and that's okay. People don't have to wear their clothes a certain way because of how someone said you are " suppose" to style this way. You are also conflating Archive fashion with grailed pieces.
and now im getting into archive, because of this vid. anyone know a good yahoo japan middle man?
rayuk 😂 great video tho bro
peep the earl sweatshirt ❤
i mean, I think collecting clothing from different years would be cool if the people who did that collecting maybe didnt suck so much
Archive Fashion is so tuff i want to be ryuk from death note so bad
This guy doesn't get the respect he deserves
But why is a crusty 2016 acg alpine 1500???
the way u said ryuk pained me
"It was very formative as a young adult..." Dude looks like he's 17 :D
This is why older than raf
Do you know any good archive pages where i could find pieces ? I want to get more into archive fashion
@archived
clothes are fun
do ah vid on enfants riches deprimes
Anyone knows the song at 10:52 ?
please please please let me get what I want cover by deftones
Id on the plants in da back?
Those new pages prices are not reasonable 💀
let's be real, the second it started getting called "archive fashion" it was over - its just being into garments that you like. The very idea that buying or collecting clothes that aren't the latest season is novel, comes straight out of some bizzaro gross capitalist mindset. Once it became archival it then became a form of abstracted value beyond what the item physically actually was and immediately turned into yet another market and yet another form of power/status competition.
if something you are interested in is dependent on what others label it as you where never actually interested in it bro
@@littlereindeer3015 You need to improve your reading comprehension because that's not at all what I'm discussing champ. What I'm saying has nothing to do with interests or even something like wanting gatekeep/keep something niche. I'm talking about how capitalism functions and how objects are converted into abstract value beyond their terrestrial qualities.
@@jcg8469 brands wouldn’t exist without capitalism ‘champ’ stop crying and get ur money up
@@littlereindeer3015 lmao, so you think that pre the late 19th/early 20th century that no brands existed? Get a basic level of education up.
@@jcg8469 you're just ignoring what i said but alright champ
dont ever buy no gas station weed
Let people live
Bro why does everyone loose their shit from that one 2001 undercover runway collection..
Not even into fashion, but now I'm hoping to be cause of these videos
Don't get into fashion I beg you
gimme dat chito hoodie. now.
This video felt like eating cotton candy, just a lot of air and no substance 😭
Crazy how we went full circle with 80s, 90s, and 2000s nu-metal. Now we wait for the mid-late 2000s emo revival (shudder).
Was taking a shit while watching this
The🥇 and 🥈 archives are done, but here, take this 🥉 archive treasure 😅 11:02 you can be like Ryuk 💀