Question, I’ve done model cars for a while however I’m very new to mixing paints and using the spray gun. I’ve used store bought spray paints all my life however when it comes to mixing the paint, how do you get the specific paint color and recipe for the amount of paint you would put in the mixture to create the specific color. (For example I want Ford Liquid Blue like you just showed or Porsche GT Silver, I can always find the actual paint code for the “real” cars but is there like a site or something that can convert the paint code into the recipe for mixtures for your model paint, like how were you able to get/mix Liquid Blue in the first place)
The method I used to use is to buy a product with zero paint and spray it. However, the surface is slightly melted because it is not plastic-only. Tamiya's product is recommended to use Tamiya paint in the manual.
댓글에서 한글을 보니 반갑네요 ㅎㅎ 정확히 어느 부분을 말씀하시는지 모르겠습니다만 어떤 부품이든 같은 색이 아닌 이상 따로 도색하고 결합하시는걸 추천 드리고 그러지 못할경우 세필(얇은 붓)은 적당한 금액의 좋은 것을 사시고 넘치지 않게 뭍혀 천천히 칠하시는걸 추천합니다. 영상 시청 감사합니다.
@@morphocyanic7637 아 그 부분의 경우 저 또한 고민 했던 부분입니다. 따로 도색하면 색이 달라보일까봐 결합후 도장했는데 그부분을 칠할때 공기압을 낮게 조정하고 에어브러쉬또한 약하게 분사해서 도장했습니다. 제일 먼저 몇번 칠하고 말린뒤 전체적으로 도장을 들어가시는걸 추천합니다. 하지만 분리해서 도장하는것에 비해 잘 안되기는 합니다.
Great video! May I ask what nozzle size and air pressure (psi) you used to spray the silver base coat, liquid blue, and clear coat? Thanks for the response!
Great build. Sure love the paint job!I just got the kit today. I will paint mine the liquid blue. I may paint the interior white pieces with the blue exterior paint.
Cant wait to build. I have two questions. I use a can of mr topcoat gloss on my models and I am slightly new to model kits I have only done 3. I am worried about doing a wet sand after gloss. How can I make sure I don't sand too far and scratch the paint or decals? What grit sand paper should I use?
The reason I use urethane creamer is because of the thickness of the film. In case of canspray, it is recommended to spray it twice. After that, I think it would be better to gently use #2000 paper sandpaper. Dekal damage is a difficult part, but simply the actual difference also has a short difference. Don't worry and let's finish at the right level.
Hello, im asking how long do i have to wait for my clearcoat to fully harden for wetsand, i used a can of mr super clear gloss on my GR Supra and im wondering if it's a week or only a few days. Any answers will be appreciated, thanks in advance.
Sorry I have one more question. Is it essential to sand the model before painting to remove any mould marks? I would need to buy much finer sand paper than the stuff I have. Is it worth buying?
@@raphanunu6912 The model I have has only one or two tiny marks. You know sanding sticks don't just appear out of thin air smh. I don't have any so I would need to buy sanding sticks. They cost money. And also I did end up getting some sanding tools and I sanded the entire body down with 600 grit sponges before primer and it turned out excellent. And the cars we drive dont have mould marks because they are not moulded in the same way and they are not 40$ plastic model kits. XD
@@matteopatel5096 inexpensive sanding sticks can be purchased at beauty supply stores, just look in the nail department. You will find that they have four different grits for doing nails. I have found them to be an excellent tool in my hobby chest.
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![[Full build] Make It McLaren Senna 1/24 Scale step by step (Tamiya)](/img/n.gif)
Very subtle work you did, my friend.
Thx a lot.
As always another beautiful build my friend. This Ford GT looks amazing. Thanks for sharing, take care and keep up the good work.
I got this kit and can't wait to build it. Great build, I can use some of the video for reference.
This kit came out well. I hope to make a wonderful work.
Nice
Very good!!!
Nice Work ! I'm impressed. I am going to build one as well in future ;)
Beautiful job
Excellent video. Just subscribed to your channel.
who dislikes this stuff?
What is the trick to get the door areas to snap down. Do you pry down and glue?
And did you snap the 2 pices together or did you glue them together
Nice kit that iv the revell old blue red lemans one I think there cool looking car from first gen to latest this 👍Keith
That's right! I was surprised when the new car was released!
Question, I’ve done model cars for a while however I’m very new to mixing paints and using the spray gun. I’ve used store bought spray paints all my life however when it comes to mixing the paint, how do you get the specific paint color and recipe for the amount of paint you would put in the mixture to create the specific color. (For example I want Ford Liquid Blue like you just showed or Porsche GT Silver, I can always find the actual paint code for the “real” cars but is there like a site or something that can convert the paint code into the recipe for mixtures for your model paint, like how were you able to get/mix Liquid Blue in the first place)
The method I used to use is to buy a product with zero paint and spray it. However, the surface is slightly melted because it is not plastic-only. Tamiya's product is recommended to use Tamiya paint in the manual.
항상 영상 올라올 때마다 잘 챙겨보고 있습니다~ 바디 뒷바퀴 쪽 가운데 뚫려있는 부분은 결합하고 도색하기가 매우 까다롭던데 혹시 주의사항이나 팁 같은게 있을까요??
댓글에서 한글을 보니 반갑네요 ㅎㅎ 정확히 어느 부분을 말씀하시는지 모르겠습니다만 어떤 부품이든 같은 색이 아닌 이상 따로 도색하고 결합하시는걸 추천 드리고 그러지 못할경우 세필(얇은 붓)은 적당한 금액의 좋은 것을 사시고 넘치지 않게 뭍혀 천천히 칠하시는걸 추천합니다. 영상 시청 감사합니다.
답글 감사합니다~ 제가 댓글로 얘기한 부분은 바디를 전부 조립하고 도색할 때 바디 부품이랑 부품 A11/A12 사이에 공간(실차에서는 공기역학적인 구조로 되어있는 부분) 안쪽을 에어브러시로 도색하기가 까다롭던데 그 부분에 대해 혹시 팁 같은게 있을까요?
@@morphocyanic7637 아 그 부분의 경우 저 또한 고민 했던 부분입니다. 따로 도색하면 색이 달라보일까봐 결합후 도장했는데 그부분을 칠할때 공기압을 낮게 조정하고 에어브러쉬또한 약하게 분사해서 도장했습니다. 제일 먼저 몇번 칠하고 말린뒤 전체적으로 도장을 들어가시는걸 추천합니다. 하지만 분리해서 도장하는것에 비해 잘 안되기는 합니다.
@@Makeitscale 역시 어려운 부분이네요 ㅎㅎ 친절한 답글 감사합니다~!!
wow
Great video! May I ask what nozzle size and air pressure (psi) you used to spray the silver base coat, liquid blue, and clear coat? Thanks for the response!
All work with a dry piece (Richpen GP-2/1.3-1.5 psi)
For 2k urethane, work with PS-290/2.3psi.
@@Makeitscale Thank you for the response!
Great build. Sure love the paint job!I just got the kit today. I will paint mine the liquid blue. I may paint the interior white pieces with the blue exterior paint.
Cant wait to build. I have two questions. I use a can of mr topcoat gloss on my models and I am slightly new to model kits I have only done 3. I am worried about doing a wet sand after gloss. How can I make sure I don't sand too far and scratch the paint or decals? What grit sand paper should I use?
The reason I use urethane creamer is because of the thickness of the film. In case of canspray, it is recommended to spray it twice. After that, I think it would be better to gently use #2000 paper sandpaper. Dekal damage is a difficult part, but simply the actual difference also has a short difference. Don't worry and let's finish at the right level.
@@Makeitscale thats awesome thanks. Last thing. Would you recommend a sanding sponge, sticks or just paper
@@matteopatel5096 For glossy, paper (#2000) and sponge (#4000-#10000) are recommended. Stick sandpaper is recommended for removing part lines.
Hello, im asking how long do i have to wait for my clearcoat to fully harden for wetsand, i used a can of mr super clear gloss on my GR Supra and im wondering if it's a week or only a few days. Any answers will be appreciated, thanks in advance.
I don't know how many times I sprayed it, but if the weather is warm, it becomes completely dry after a day.
@@Makeitscale oh i see, i live in indonesia so the weather us always hot, lucky me hehe
Your work is superb. May I ask what grit you use to rub down the urethane clear?
sandpaper uses #2000 to #10000, Compound uses Hasegawa Tamiya products.
@@Makeitscale thanks. So which one were you using on the urethane (at about 18 minutes in)?
@@goben98 urethane is used for car painting. (10:1) I recommend ingredients that you can buy easily.
ford gt liquid blue 라고만 써져 있는데요 어느 도료를 사용하신건지 알려주실수 있나요?
제로페인트사의 제품입니다.
Can you tell me what brand of silver you use as a base coat before applying the liquid blue? Is it also a Zero Paint product?
It is stainless silver from ipp model paint company in Korea.
@@Makeitscale Thank you!
Was it hard to get paint in the flying buttress area? I am worried when I build mine that it will be tough to get up in there.
I recommend dividing and painting the entire body rather than assembling and painting it. It's difficult to paint after making a complete assembly.
Thanks for the tip!
Very nice build my friend. The bleu color is from which brand ?
It's a zero-paint product.
what is the white cap cement you use instead of Tamiya for large surface areas?
It's not Extra thin, it's just Tamiya cement.
@@Makeitscale oh i see, thank you for replying!
Can you please share your source for the Ford Liquid Blue paint/
Zero paint belongs to the company.
Sorry I have one more question. Is it essential to sand the model before painting to remove any mould marks? I would need to buy much finer sand paper than the stuff I have. Is it worth buying?
It's a process that looks more real. This is personal satisfaction, so you get as many results as you want.
@@raphanunu6912 The model I have has only one or two tiny marks. You know sanding sticks don't just appear out of thin air smh. I don't have any so I would need to buy sanding sticks. They cost money. And also I did end up getting some sanding tools and I sanded the entire body down with 600 grit sponges before primer and it turned out excellent. And the cars we drive dont have mould marks because they are not moulded in the same way and they are not 40$ plastic model kits. XD
@@matteopatel5096 inexpensive sanding sticks can be purchased at beauty supply stores, just look in the nail department. You will find that they have four different grits for doing nails. I have found them to be an excellent tool in my hobby chest.
Whats the name of the white glue you used?
It's a woodwork glue. It becomes transparent when it dries.
Video freezes at 17:54