Building a climbing wall at home | What you NEED to know + setting tips!
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- Building a rock climbing wall at home? Wondering how to set your home climbing wall? Here are some simple tips & tricks you need to know before building a climbing board - to get the best climbing wall for your training!
In this easy guide to a climbing wall at home we’ll look at climbing wall design, how to build a climbing wall at home, what climbing hold to buy, how to set your home climbing wall, and how to optimise your home climbing wall!
Got any questions about your diy climbing wall or board climbing? Leave a comment below.
Like our climbing videos? Hit subscribe and check out Patreon rb.gy/pcc2l3
Follow Robbie Phillips, pro rock climber, and Culann O Brien, Filmmaker, on ridiculous climbing adventures. All craic, no crap - it’s just pure unadulterated climbing!
Time Stamps
Intro 00:00
Get a climbing wall design 00:27
How to build a climbing wall 05:12
What climbing hold to buy? 06:04
How to set your home climbing wall 11:43 - Sport
For those wanting the LINK for the Wall Building Video I used - czcams.com/video/UtR56KPKzGQ/video.html&ab_channel=jacksonclimbs
Apparently if you have AdBlocker on then the little pop ups we add to the video don't work :) Hope that helps guys!
Instablaster...
“And the cool thing about it is that Culann still can’t do it” 😂
Savage 🤣
😂
The unexpected shade thrown at Culann was just *chefs kiss*
great video man ! , good therory crafting. keep it up :D
This is REALLY great advice! I’ve had a home board for a few years and these are things that learned in one form or another over the years. Particularly leaving a setting for 8 to 12 months!
Excellent Video! Thanks. So much good advice, now to put it into practice. 😁👍
No worries Mix!!!
Great video and very helpful! About to film a build series on a wall in my basement
This man really said "I warm up on your project" damn that's alpha
Haha 😂 its just a wind up 🐺
Was an absolute banger of an episode! Cheers so much man!!
No worries man 😄
amazing! this is the best video after watching some 30 others
Cracking video Robbie, some great tips in there thanks. Would love a home board
Thanks man :)
Thanks for the video, yes it is a good way to see it! that if you don't see chalk you don't use it. So u need to change the position of that hold😊
Great vidi. Also my inspiration coming from outdoor projects
We need to keep the dream alive!!! 🧗♂️
Nice one. having just built a wall this weekend its a good timing to see this. I like the advice on splitting the board into a grid
Thanks man 🙂 Good luck with the new board!!!!
Consider looking at places like Home Depot or Lowes (or your local hardware places if youre not in the US) and check out the banisters, toppers etc, really anything used to build stair cases. You can find REALLY nice wood in very good shapes for climbing for pretty cheap, I have at least a dozen holds on my wall ranging from pinches to crimps and slopers that were all built using these kind of materials. Total cost for all those mats was under 100 bucks (i can still make many more holds out of the spare wood too). You would need the 3/8in hex head bolts, a decent washer and appropriate paddle / drill bits for this.
This was very useful thanks! Did you consider buying a ready made board like a moonboard? Since it wouldn't have been that more expensive.
Nice video!
My 2 cents based on my experience with my "lockdown board":
1) If you're weak like me, 30 degrees is already good for bouldering 😅
2) You can get started with very few holds. It's surprising how many boulder problems you can set with the same dozen of well-placed handholds.
3) It's easy to make very basic holds. They're nowhere near as good as the ones you buy, but they're ridiculously cheap to make, and they do the trick.
1) hahaha true! But... when you get strong from your 30 degree board, eventually you’ll want a 45 😜
2) so true!
3) also true, but I do like having nice shapes to pull on. And with the price of some wooden holds being so relatively cheap I often think I’d rather support some of the climbers who’ve started up businesses doing this and give myself more time for climbing 🧗♂️
@@RobbiePhillips Agreed on 3! I bought many holds as well and they're great, but it's fun to make a few at home, and also that's useful to know for those on a low budget...
Regarding 1... I hope so!
The advice of use it for a couple of weeks, see what holds you use a lot which you never use , which you love and hate is probably the best advice in the video. It's been the main thing that I've suggested to others building a wall too. Over lockdown I went with the symmetrical route for training, do a climb on one side hop down and repeat it on the other, it's been very beneficial. However I do think its time to go back to a more chaotic smattering of holds and trying to come up with some things I fail on over and over. Great video .
Another thing I do is I have small
screw ons off the board that I leave for adding to create replicas more easily. That way I can have a fixed set that stays on the wall, but then also be able to customise a few problems here and there.
Love the cameo of Long Neck Ondra! Great video guys and gals!
If you watch our other vids, he actually makes quote a few cameos :P A little easter egg for you guys!
@@RobbiePhillips Ohhhh my gosh... I watched many and I have seen parts but now much like Culann and your sends.... Gotta catch em all!!!! (anyone with photoshop skills edit culann with a poke ball baseball hat one). Or just have Culann discuss baseball stats. Love you guys and gals you keep me and the whole team motivated!!!
Love this. Glad you're passing on what you know to your audience.
Will build one if I ever have space
completely agree on everything you pointed out. I recently built a fixed two boards 35 degree with a 50 cm kicker and it's going great. At first I set some problems and now as I bought most of my holds in pairs I've set it symmetrical so we'll be able to go at hard problems on both directions as well as doing some endurance training on medium holds. Couldn't be happier and getting stronger.
Brilliant! I’ll be interested to hear how you get on with the symmetrical training. I used to do a bit of this at the wall but always ended up just doing the one side 😅 It was always super interesting how one side favours though!
@@RobbiePhillips I've been putting some time and effort into it, recently I set 15 symmetrical problems and been trying them with a friend and chart the results (flash, the tries to get it or fail), usually the ones set right to left have been more challenging than left to right, my friend has noted serious imbalance on his performance when the crux is on his weak side, for me is usually the same on both sides as on the confinement I've spent quite a long time training on rings and finger strength. Anyway, loving the symmetrical training.
@@alvaroc6326 Great to hear! There is a symmetrical board at my local gym (which we can't go to currently due to lockdown) so will be good to see when I'm back there how things are on each side. I'm terrible for training it though - can never be bothered hahaha
cool
What holds do I need to train for polished gritstone climbs?
Just need a space to build in now!
i build my 4foot by 8 foot wall in my kitchen >< with hand saw and a drill (living in a appartement)
Excellent video. Anyone got a spare garage I can have? Thanks in advance 🥴
great video! any specific hold sets or brands youd recommend ?
Oh yeah! So with the plastic holds there are so many new brands now, but I quite like the old school basic shapes I haven’t bought new plastic holds in years, so just look for any sets that have comfortable basic shapes. A really good company for that is CORE. They’re a U.K. based company, and pretty common in the walls, but some of their basic medium sized edges are so comfy and good for training on.
As for wooden holds, I’ve bought a lot from SillyGoat Holds, Beastmaker and more recently Lock Holds.
SG geos are brilliant for all levels and are really nice shapes! They also do brilliant geo pocket sets that are really adaptable!
Beastmaker have a good selection of all types of holds
Lock are easily the fanciest holds I got and their crimps are my favourite!
That seems like a good use for the backside of your friction slab trainer! One clear downside is that the steeper you make the backside, the easier the friction slab will be. Your setup there looks a bit on the easy side for my tastes!
There’s a lot of screws sticking out the back which make the slab easier too
@@RobbiePhillips pretty much reverse crampons for the ice climbing season
Like something out of a Hellraiser film 😈
Hey Robbie, builder mate of mine was concerned by your leg configuration. If the legs are different strengths (just going by the different widths) and angles then they will give uneven support to the frame which may warp it over time. He was also questioned why you had only 1 parallel set of noggins between the studs on your frame. You could get another couple of lengths on the lower leg wood to replace the upper legs and use the 2"x4" legs for the noggins. Couldn't see a link to the video you followed to see if they advised correctly...
Really enjoy your channel, don't want you to get squashed - big jumper envy throughout this video.
Hey Daniel,
Thanks for the comment. I’ll be dead honest, we followed the video mostly, but then veered of slightly when we built the legs 😅 However we did build it to be pretty strong - both the legs take the weight comfortably and when we climb on it it doesn’t seem to be straining at all. I don’t know what it will be like over time, but it’s been about 10 months now and the board still feels pretty darn solid with no sign of warping.
Secondly, don’t know what a noggin is. I’ll Google that and get back to you 😅 Is the link not there? I’m sure we have it on screen when I mention it.
Haha thanks mate! Christmas jumper from my auntie 😂 Hardly taken it off, so cosy!
What T nut spacing did you go with?
It looks like Ill have to patent my adjustable board I have in the garage.
Thanks for the very informative video! Due to space & supporting structure restrictions, I ended up with a 20 deg wall (3.2m high). I appreciate that it's nowhere near the optimum specs for effective training, but I am wondering what's the best way to ensure that I make the most out of it? Use smaller size holds and focus on endurance training/technique drills etc?
Hey man, sounds like an awesome wall! 45 degree is just my optimum, but I know plenty of climbers who use 20 degree boards and make it work for them.
I would recommend to get some really nice wooden rounded edges and place them in undercuts/gaston positions - these are pretty intense even on a 20 degree board.
Make sure to turn your footholds at different angles, not just flat horizontal, so it really forces you to think about how you use your feet and you can’t just plant your feet on them. Also get some slopey feet!
You’ll definitely have to get lots of bad hand and footholds for boukdering, but for endurance training get some nicer holds too - 20 degrees is still overhanging and you’ll need some comfy mid size rounded edges and pinches.
@@RobbiePhillips thank you so much man! So helpful :) I was considering getting some wooden holds, as I only have plastic ones at the moment. I'll make this one work and hopefully in the future I'll find some space to build a 45 deg too!
@@shtodrummer Loads of good wooden hold manufacturers! Id recommen SillyGoat, Beastmaker, Lock Holds in the UK :) Thats what I've got
@@RobbiePhillips 👌👌🙏
Any advice to avoid injuries or arthritis?
Worked around the problems of angle choice my making mine adjustable by way of and old gym rope, grigri, and pulleys, and utilizing some heavy wall anchors.
Allows me to set my session to warm, for aero cap, endurance, power endurance, strict power, contact, and whatever else, plus the whole setup is actually easy to take down if need be.
That’s brilliant! Good effort man. I’d have loved an adjustable board. Maybe later down the line
Doesnt matter what foam you get its going to cost the same. If youll use the pads outdoors get bouldering pad's. If your going to leave the foam under your board a big piece of foam will end up costing the same as smaller ones to fill the space.
This is because the foam isnt expensive what so ever. All the cost is in shipping
Hi Robbie, if you were to build the wall outside, what things do you need to consider compared to an indoor board?
Obviously weatherproofing it, but that goes without saying. You may want to invest in a higher quality ply wood, possibly treat it as well. You’ll probably want to build a structure to shelter it. A few friends of mine built a wall that had a shelter over it as part of the overall build.
I’d say a really important thing that could be overlooked is humidity and how that affects holds. My board is in a shed that gets quite humid and in fact feels like outdoors, and some holds hold moisture more than others, especially the wooden ones! Not all of the wooden ones strangely... unfortunately I don’t know why this is so can’t really help too much there, all I can say is be wary of it. Last week I had to unscrew and take some of my holds in to dry on the radiator 😅
If you buy gym seconds/rejects, you can end up with holds of lots of different colors. Have you tried painting them with spray paint to create a set of holds of the same color?
nope... I think depending on what paint you use that coul affect the friction?
Looks good Robbie. Next wall build if you want to do a collab video reach out to me.
cheers man. Haha think you're a bit far away to just pop over :P
@@RobbiePhillips that's true, but I might be able to help digitally
What are the dimensions of the board? I'm trying to work out if i can fit one in our spare bedroom.
I don’t have them to hand, but basically it is 2.25 standard size 3/4” panels with a very short 20-30cm kickboard. The kickboard was well worth it, but don’t make it too big - It only needs to be small.
If you can manage this then you’ll be laughing. I wouldn’t really want it any smaller.
Robbie, when I am setting my home wall, if a create a problem that I can't do within a few goes should I make it easier or just grind at it til I can do it? Cheers
Oh defo grind at it! I have a lot of problems that I can’t do after a few sessions nevermind a few goes :) it’s good to have projects!
Do you have a link for the video you followed?
Ahhh sorry dude - we're fixing that now :)
See my pinned comment
Where do you buy the wall for fixe holds, on internet ?
Sorry, what do you mean? The plywood?
F in the chat for my brother Culann
T-shirt idea: 'Culaan Can't Do it'
Hahaha
Is it to much 4'5m heigth? 30°
4.5m in total height is the highest for a commercial bouldering wall... I think for a home wall it’s really not necessary. Maybe 3m max with more width is a better option. If you can get a 45 degree board in there too then you’ll have beta of both!
Yes, Robbie...volumes have a place on the board: anywhere you damaged your wall lol
HAHAHA!!! Yes 👍 very true 😂
Which gym closed down?
It was Alien Rock 2 a while back - feels like only yesterday but was probably a few years now
@@RobbiePhillips Ah before my time climbing I guess! You had me afraid that alien bloc or rock (or eden rock) were shutting down, dunno if my wee heart could handle that atm
Haha don’t worry, those guys are still going so far as I know. Alien rock 2 was the og bouldering wall in Scotland 🏴 ahead of its time
Certainly a more budget friendly option than the wide boyz home wall
For ONLY £18k you can get one those Kilter boards!
@@RobbiePhillips makes the 2016 DIY moonboard kit is relatively good value at £2,200 and you just have to build the frame yourself.
So what’s the £2200 get you?
@@RobbiePhillips drilled boards with t nuts, holds, bolts, LEDs and the magic box that controls the lights. moonclimbing.com/moonboard-diy-kit-2016.html
You just build the frame and source your own mats. You can get more up to hold sets but it bumps the price up a bit.
@@RobbiePhillips holds led and pre drills panel but you also pay for all the problems already set in the app ... dunno if it s worth it though
:)
What wall recently closed? ✌🏻
Old alien rock 2
@@RobbiePhillips never climbed there...only the daddy alien rock and the illegitimate child,alien bloc......but they still speak of A2 in folklore ✌🏻🏴💪🏻
Mate it was a legendary place!!! Well ahead of its time.
@@RobbiePhillips 👌🏻👍🏻💪🏻🧗🏻♂️🏴
bump
Will build one if I ever have space