Building an Adjustable Home Climbing Wall During Isolation - 12ft Bouldering Wall - Full Build Video
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- We've been planning on building a DIY home climbing wall for a long time, we even had most of the supplies just stored around, but hadn't got around to it. COVID-19 hit, and it was the perfect motivator to finally get our butts moving on this freestanding wall.
This isn't a How-To video, but more of a "what we did" video. We are happy to be able to boulder again and have climbing back in our lives.
Since we posted this video, we have also uploaded an update that can be found here: • Adjustable Climbing Wa...
...and following that video, the reset here: • FULL adjustable climbi...
*Edit: Some people in various places have asked for a few more details, so I have a post that has some extra images and explanations: www.sendstory.ca/2020/04/26/s...
We did also create a time-lapse cut-down of this build that you can find here: • Building an Adjustable...
Boulder Breakdowns: • 3D Bouldering / Climbi...
🛒 Wall Hardware:
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*Climbing Bolts: amzn.to/3NYks0w
*T-Nuts: amzn.to/3zqgTwl or amzn.to/3MsYLoe
🛒 DIY Climbing Hold Materials:
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*Resin: www.alumilite.com/resins/alum...
*Mold making materials: www.alumilite.com/silicones/h...
ONE-TIME 10% OFF COUPON CODE: sendstory10
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*These are affiliate links that help us out. Thanks!
Climber Dad's wall: • How Much Would it Cost...
Climber Dad's site (build guide): climberdad.blogspot.com/p/sho...
TL;DR/Don't like all the talking:
How it began - 0:00
Why we decided to build - 1:27
What we were building - 1:58
Getting into it - 3:15
Drilling holes - 7:30
Watching paint dry - 13:23
Installing T-Nuts - 15:50
Planning the assembly - 17:29
Shout-outs - 18:46
Framing - 20:13
Hinges and wall - 23:30
Building the legs - 24:51
Getting jacked (lifting the wall) - 26:28
Beefy legs (supports) - 29:48
The final wall - 31:21
How it works - 34:52
The first set - 38:29
Follow us here too! / sendstory - Sport
Lots of home walls going up, I would love for people to share their setup!
If you liked mine, or thought this was useful, please show some support with a subscription or even share this with someone who might like it. Thanks again all!
Send Story good build I’m going to use this as an example to build a home campus wall
@@samuel4781 awesome! Feel free to share when it is done!
How do you slowly lower it down? All the ratchet straps IV seen only ratchet one way...
Don't know how to add pics but wouldn't mind sharing my Trango at home setup with a pulley, not much space where I am but gets the job done!
@@e.solano3963 if you want, add a link to your yt profile and let me know, or you can add us to Instagram (link in our profile) l to shoot us a message. I be love to see it, that sounds cool!
Good Lord... I thought this was a DIY - who needs to ever go to the climbing gym again after this one?! 😂😂😂 Damn impressive.
Haha, I appreciate it. But seriously, I think we all want to climb in the gym again, this will have to do for now.
I don't know how i got here, but hell i watched the whole 40 minutes and loved it. Great build!
Haha, sounds like a typical youtube sesh! Thanks for the comment and watch!
Absolutely incredible work.
Thanks for sharing! Good call on the double legs 👍
Love the Between the Buried and Me hoodie! Thanks for the vid. Definitely, incorporating these into my plans!
Extra points for noticing the hoodie. Another user mentioned it, and I honestly didn't notice until I edited that I am pretty much just wearing BTBAM merch in the entire video, haha. Thanks for the comment, glad I could help!
I'm shocked that you've got such a small channel but you're putting out such high-quality work! Definitely going to reference this when working on my own climbing wall. Keep up the awesome stuff!
Awesome! Thanks, and I am glad I could help. I am trying to make more content, but it is definitely a passion project and it takes a ton of work, so I think growing is a challenge. I am also against click bait thumbnails/titles and spamming my content in places where it isn't relevant, so unfortunately I think that slows your exposure on this platform, but I am okay with that, as long as people like what I put out. Thanks again!
@@SendStory Definitely can appreciate the need to make pure content that's unfiltered among CZcams standards but just know your channel came across my main page after watching just a few building videos, so you're still getting suggested to climbers like me! Hopefully more will see stuff like this and get interested in your other DIY stuff
This was amazing! I feel very inspired to build my own wall now.
Hope you got around to building a wall! Glad we could help!
Love that it’s super long and detailed. A lot of other vids skip over the hurdles they went through but this is perfevt
Glad you found it helpful. We wanted to show as much of the process as possible. Thanks for the comment!
This is definitely one of the best home-woodie build videos I've seen, great effort. And lately I've seen a LOT! I'm glad you said you're going to add the emergency chain alongside the ratchet-straps, you've clearly got a good head for safety concerns and built-in redundancy. Having built my own one, I'm amazed how heavy a 'fully-loaded' woodie is - they'd make a real mess if it collapsed when someone's training on it! Happy cranking.
Thanks! I agree, I think at this time it is important to keep people out of the hospital, so home walls crashing down wont be doing anyone any good. After some heavy use on the wall and inspections, I find this design actually puts equally as much load on the additional set pins, as the straps - which from a safety standpoint is great, but definitely makes adjusting those pins in and out much clunkier as they tighten up in their holes nicely. I will still be adding in that redundancy for piece of mind, but I also think it will be a nice extra piece of hardware to make use of when lowering the wall. Thanks again!
You always inspire me, this is amazing! Thanks for sharing the journey!
Thanks Danielle! Didn't know you were on here, a sub is coming your way :)
@@SendStory Thanks Braeden! 🙏😀
Wow! - This is an amazingly clear explanation and very impressive. I bought some rocks to create a rock climbing wall for my 10 year old granddaughter - I am 68 and pretty adventurous, however, I am now rethinking her Christmas present of a small rock climbing wall. Geez!
That's awesome, sounds like a pretty sweet gift from Grandma. There are lots of other ways to go about using climbing holds on a wall - you don't necessarily have to follow along with what we did. I still think that is a great gift and would be appreciated! I am glad you liked the video, thanks for the comment and feel free to ask any questions if you want to be pointed in any direction for your granddaughters wall.
Very inspiring and informative! Best outdoor all purpose bouldering wall design I've seen. Great work, especially not being an engineer. If this is what he makes as a temporary hold-over I can't imagine what he could think up for a permanent solution.
Thanks Mikel, I definitely spent a long time thinking about the details of this and executing it. I dream of a day I have the space to build a permanent wall - you can be sure if that day ever came, I'd document it here. Thanks again for the comment!
Fantastic job! Thanks for the shout out and yes you should complement yourself :)
Thanks! It means a lot - and no problem, you deserve it.
Fancy seeing you here Sam!!! Hello from Vegas!
This video was fantastic. I don’t leave a lot of CZcams comments but I feel compelled to here. The editing, explanation, ingenuity.. all great.
Also, you said you’re not an engineer. I am an engineer.. and your wall looks solid. Your attention to detail was great. Looking forward to watching more of your videos!
Thank you very much, I appreciate the feedback and appreciate someone more credible giving me a thumbs up. Some friends like to pick on me for some of the things I have built as "over builds", but they aren't engineers either and I would rather overdue it, than under. Especially considering how inexpensive an extra board or two and hardware is in the grand scheme of things. Thanks again, and I hope my other videos can live up to this one.
Dude this is unreal - the new bible of home wall construction
Thanks man! There are lots of great build videos out there though! But I appreciate the compliment!
This took off! Nice work
Thanks dude!
Awesome video. Awesome wall. I’m in the process now of building my wall. Just doing a small portable training wall
Nice! Feel free to share it when you are done!
amazing! great job dude! epic wall and a great and informative video!
Thanks a ton!
I enjoyed every second of this video, well done!
Thanks a lot, glad you liked it! Have a good one!
Amazing detailed tutorial. Thank you!
Thanks! I also saw your hangboard video a while ago, good job on that too!
I was waiting for this to happen and it is glorious!!
I'm gunna call it. This is going to go viral! Definitely the best do it yourself wall video I've seen on all of CZcams.
@@thisiseric Haha, I am not sure that everyone will want to hear me drone on for that long, hence why I made a cut-down video as well, but I sincerely appreciate the enthusiasm!
@@SendStory Vicki and I were thinking of doing one too but we don't have as much space as you . But I love the size and style of your design. We shall see :D
I would love to make project like that. You clearly deserve more than 421 subscribers!! Quality of the video and voice is great!
Thank you very much, hopefully others think so as well. Anything stopping you from trying to build something? I say give it a go if you can, good luck!
This is a fantastic build video. Most other videos don't give you this kind of detail and only a timelapse without an explanation. Those detail shots on the hinges is excruciatingly crucial and i feel like most people gloss over it. Some friends and I were going off a different build video the other day and had to bail because of how structurally unsafe it felt. I believe this is the one to really go off of.
Glad I could help. Like I mention in the video, I'm not an engineer, so i can only vouch for my own work, but structurally, mine is definitely very sturdy. Hope you can build something solid to throw around on, good luck!
@@SendStory second question what design program did you use to plan your build? Do you believe it would be possible for someone new to design/engineering to pick it up within a few days?
I use a free (completely open source) program called blender. It is fantastic for 3d modeling, but the learning curve is steep. However, with the cost of entry being zero, I'd say it's worth a try. Alternatively, I know a lot of people use Sketch Up as well, which is meant for projects like this.
Amazing wall Man, thanks for share 🙏✨
Glad you dig it, thanks for the comment!
you did such a good job and great video as always! I can't wait to climb on this!!!!!!
Soon, I hope!
Yo this is so sick!
Love it!... You could add an addition wall on the right side to expand the climbing experience, which would provide a stronger foundation with the option to add tougher holds, or create boulder problems to help growth.
I hope to not be in a rental forever and hopefully in our next place I will rejig and revisit the design to get more out of it. Thanks for the comment!
@@SendStory I missed the rental part, I understand and agree
Awesome dude
Thanks!
Very nice
Belt still in yesterday's pants? Now they are today's pants! Now for my next trick...
Haha, amazing.
Congrats on hitting 1000 subs! ;)
Thanks a lot, I appreciate the comment, and I assume a sub as well! Cheers!
@@SendStory I've got a ton of respect for the blender effects in this video. I learned to use blender for my gaming channel and it takes a massive effort. Beautifully done!
@@CTDurkin Thanks again, I have spent a good long while learning Blender, as well as getting these animations where I wanted them. Thanks for the kind words, I really appreciate it!
Nice! I've been working on something similar as well (funnily enough, using blender as a planner too, although I'm a bit rusty as I've not done much 3D over the past few years).
I've been working on a free-standing, collapsible climbing wall that I can slot a mattress onto (becoming a wall/bed). Pretty cool seeing your solutions to the locking mechanism!
That's awesome! I think I might have seen your post on the Home Climbing Forum, maybe? Honestly, I love Blender, I am always stoked when someone else says that they use it too. Feel free to share it when you are done, I would love to see it! Thanks for the comment!
@@SendStory Afraid that wasn't me (didn't know about the home climbing forum).
I feel the same way whenever I see someone else use Blender! Will gladly share once I'm done :)
Beautiful construction👌 I have a similar build at home ( a bit more gangsta built than this I must say) I use an electric 12v winch. It looks like you could also? Assuming you could and would be happy to drill and plug into the house wall behind. I would be tempted to attach a small winch to the top back of the board itself and then fix an anchor point to the wall. To minimise the stress on the brick you could fix say 6x2 the full height of the wall with multiple fixings ( in the brick joints with say hilti bolts) and then anchor to that timber. I use jumper leads to a deep cycle battery and then take it in to recharge, but rarely need to. All the best 😊
That sounds like an awesome build! Part of the reason I had a lot of the supplies to build this was because we planned on making one for a while but had yet to pull the trigger on it. One of the hold ups was that we hoped we could have a properly of our own to build a more permanent structure, but the housing market here has made that almost impossible. In this imaginary wall, we planned on using a winch or come-along system for one 8 foot section that adjusts (similar to what we built) and then a fixed wall section that it butts up against to the side (maybe even has a top-out area). Unfortunately not owning the house means we cant do anything permanent, plus trying to get something up quickly while gyms were closed means we simplified the plan a bit. I appreciate your comment, and I would love to see your system if you have posted it somewhere. Thanks again!
@@SendStory no worries mate😊 like I said that's an amazing build! I don't have any vids anywhere of my one. It's a a garden wall which kind of evolved...put sides on in the winter and then I kind of you know.. put a slate roof on it as well (I'm a roofer) 🤣 then I had to get retrospective planning permission cos one of the neighbours thought I'd just built a house at the back of the garden 😂
I love seeing these kind of builds..awesome build and awesome vids. Hope you get loads of enjoyment and solid training buddy 👌👌👌
great vid. i just finished my wall all by myself and it suuuucked. rewarding and i am sroked, but damn a helper or two woudve been so goddamn helpful
Honestly, the clips with help were the only times I had an extra pair of hands and the process immediately went smoother. Sorry to hear about your struggles, I can definitely emphasize, but stoked you got it done. Enjoy your wall and the gains!
Some ingenious solutions to a restricted situation. Very meticulous and probably unnecessary for the average home wall but fun to watch nevertheless. Good stuff dude.
Definitely some level of unnecessary here, no doubt, but it was a good distraction for a while. I appreciate the comment, Thanks.
i got so excited when you modeled it in blender
Haha. I love Blender, easily one of my favourite programs ever. Not to spam you with my content, but you might like my boulder breakdown video ( czcams.com/video/6TSZW47Ei2U/video.html ) - I did all of the recreation and modelling in Blender as well. Thanks for the comment!
it looks awesome. I live in TX so we get hurricanes, if I built a wall Id have to make it modular so I could lay it flat somehow.
Technically you can fully lower it back down so it sits mostly on the ground. I used a jack to help me lift it part way simply because I built it on a deck that ends on the right side short and the leg on that side hangs off, so I needed to get it up past that point so I could just use the legs to lift. If you built it on flat ground with the space and have a helping hand, it shouldn't be too hard to lower back down in the even of bad weather. Hope that helps!
Great video, man! Sure cover pretty much everything you need to know for building your own homewall. Gonna try doing one of these here in Brazil. I have to ask you something: what kind of lumber did you use in the frame? I can't get this information anywhere.
Hey Ruan, I used 2"x6" pressure treated lumber. If you want some more details, I have a link in the description to a page that I added some photos and measurements. As mentioned in the video, there is also another guy who has made a full build guide to something similar, it might be worth checking out too. Thanks for the comment, and good luck with your build!
great job, i wish i had a wall to climb these days hahaha
Anything in particular stopping you? That's frustrating, hopefully you can get back at it soon.
money and apartment / parents
@@rafaelsanna96 Kick the parents out! haha. That makes sense though, I am definitely lucky to have found a rental that has some yard, it's hard to come by these days. Fingers crossed things can get back to some kind of normal and you don't need a wall. Cheers.
I'd love to see a video of how the wall lowers safely. My experience with ratchet straps has been a little less than great.
Hey James, I plan on doing an update video soon. I am going to try to demo the wall a bit more and talk about the good and the bad of it and what I have modified since (spoiler - not much). The plan is to show me lowering the wall in that video, but I will just have to go about filming and editing it, and things have been a little crazy, so I will try to get to that soon... hopefully it doesnt take too long and answers peoples various questions. Thanks for the comment.
@@SendStory awesome! I'm excited for the follow up. Your video has been an inspiration for me to build my own wall.
Sick wall! Build one for me? .....when you know, it's safe
Wow! Great how to video. The best one by far I've come across so far and I've looked at over dozen easily. I appreciate all the detail and talking through choices for hardware and why. Do you think the screw in T-nuts are worth the work?
Hey Jeff, thanks for the comment! Filming, voice over, and editing definitely made the project take much longer and made it more exhausting, so I appreciate it. As for the T-nuts, I definitely think the screw-ins are better, but for a home wall, I am not completely sure if they are worth it. One of the reasons that I used them is because I didn't want to have to repair any t-nuts after the wall was complete, I hear hammer-ins are more prone to popping for various reasons. The other reason is that I liked the idea that when the wood is finally weathered, or if I build something new, I have the potential to reuse them. With all of that said, the reason I am not sure you need them is that you wont be changing your holds that frequently on a home wall and therefore are less likely to pop them out. I also have found that on volumes that I have made, adding just a bit of glue around the face of the hole before hammering the T-nuts in seems to keep them secure from movement/failure (none of the hammer-ins on my volumes have failed yet, and one I donated to a gym that has used it for a year). Hammer-ins also generate a lot of noise and swinging a hammer for hours can get exhausting, even if faster than screwing them in. So sorry if that is a lukewarm answer, but I think it depends on how you plan on building and how much you like your neighbours, haha. If you are concerned with paying extra for the T-nuts, I say get hammer-ins and just add a dab of glue to each (keeping it away from the threads) before hammering them in. If there is an area that you cant get behind to repair, should a t-nut pop, use screw-ins only for that area (heck, even add some glue to those to be sure). I hope that helps!
@@SendStory Thank you very much for the in depth answer. That helps a lot. I didn't think about the ability to reuse T-nuts. We have a cabin on forest service land and I'm planning on using left over roofing plywood and some donated holds to build a climbing wall. The thing is it isn't allowed, so if I were to be found out I'd have to dismantle it and move to my home in the city. It is, however, heavily forested and I think I can get a way with it. Thanks again.
Great video! I might try something similar. What kind of hinges are those and can you link to them? How have they held up?
Hey! I used some exterior gate hinges from Home Depot. I don't remember the exact name, but they were rated for something like 40lbs each I think (if that helps you find them). They have held up just fine, but honestly, I think the way that I have it set up, a lot of the weight is redistributed down through the supports, so it is hard to give the hinges all the credit. Thanks for the comment, good luck on your build, feel free to share it if you end up going through with the build!
This has been so awesome and helpfulWhat size hinge did you use? I have 1/2 pin size hinges that look exactly like yours but I can’t line up the hinge enough to get the screws in the top piece. I’m wondering if I need to hunt down bigger hinges
Glad this has been helpful. The actual pin part of the hinge is set just behind the face of the front panels. Due to the radius of the hinge mechanism and the fact that the wall probably won't ever be set more than like 50°, it shouldn't affect your ability to adjust the wall angle of it's set back a bit (you also don't want the hinges to be used as foot placements). So I was able to sink the screws in to the framing/structure. It's a good idea to pre drill the wood with pilot holes for the hinges, especially the front most screws if they are at all close to the edge of the framing to avoid splitting. There are hinges that have the screw holes further back (usually for heavy duty gate hinges) but if you have similar hinges to what we used, they should work. Unfortunately I can't see what you are working with, but hopefully that helps! Thanks for the comment!
Great video! I saw you painted the panels, but did you put any type of finish or waterproofing on the other lumber (legs, base, etc)?
The lumber is pressure treated for above ground weather resistance, typically this lumber above ground surfaces and with the ability to dry lasts a long time and remains structurally strong - it's typically used in decking and outdoor structure applications. If you were concerned after a few seasons of exposure, you could treat it with a weather sealer to prolong it's life. With all of that said, the lumber will outlast the plywood and even when cared for properly, anything exposed to the elements won't last forever. It depends on how much effort you want to put into maintenance. I think over time you will want to rebuild and redesign parts anyhow, but if cared for properly it could literally last decades if the wear and tear of climbing on it doesn't start to loosen the hardware. I hope that helps, thanks for the comment.
Hey! Thanks for your video. I purchased the plans from climber dad and I plan to modify it so that I can also convert it to vertical--I have 7 and 9 year olds. What I am curious about is the additions you made to the base support--a basic L it appears.I plan to have a footer that goes about 1 meter beyond kick board base and an angled piece that goes about half way up the wall. A picture of your modifications would be great...!
Sure, I will try to get you one. If you could draw up what you are talking about and shoot me a pic too, I can try to help. Let me get you something and you can respond to that. Thanks for the comment.
@@SendStory if easier you can dm me @over50boulderer
I really appreciate your guide on your website, good job! It would be great if you could add some measurements of the parts you used.
No problem, I have updated that page a bit to give more detail. As mentioned in the video and on that page, if you want a full build guide, Climber Dad has already put something very similar together with cut lists and a full purchase list, and I think that would be a good place to start. Based on what I saw in his guide, you should be able to follow most of his guide and then just modify as you see fit (like if you want to add some of the differences that my build has). I hope this helps!
@@SendStory thank you for adding the additional render. This is now the best guide to building a climbing wall I have seen. It seems easy to follow (because of clear instructions) and your result looks fantastic. I hope you enjoy climbing on your wall during quarantine.
@@kristineb2901 Thanks, I definitely enjoyed parts of it more than others, but it was overall definitely a good distraction. Hope all is well, thanks again for the kind comments.
For the fall zone, is there an affordable and safe alternative to laying out multiple crashpads? My wall will be indoors (garage) so have space to store away right next to it. Thanks for the help!
If you can track down some foam, you can make your own pads, if you don't mind the labour involved. I would recommend putting a few inches of more sturdy closed cell foam on the bottom, then a few inches of soft foam in the middle, followed by a topper layer of rigid foam again. You want to have dense foam on the bottom to make sure you don't bottom out if you land hard enough that your force continues through the other layers. Then you want something more dense on top to disperse your initial forces along a larger surface area for the same reasons, as well as having something that is sturdy enough so you don't roll any ankles. So you would probably want to try contacting a foam wholesale place, or even see if you can buy off cuts at a discount (you could try upholstery places maybe?). If you struggle to find a foam seller, some people will use old memory foam mattresses for the middle "sandwich" layer of thick soft foam, and then carpeting for the topper to give it some firmness. Once you have those layers, if you are in a garage, you could probably just get away with wrapping the whole thing in a tarp (keep some slack in it so it doesn't tear when you land), however, if you want it to be more professional, last longer, and keep everything in place better, you can buy some heavy duty vinyl material that can be welded together with a chemical adhesive. So you can cut out a template and glue together a cover that essentially is like a big bag around the foam. Hopefully that answers your question decently and isn't too nebulous! Thanks for the comment!
James! Wicked build you've got going, just a quick question. Do you think your build would still be effective if all the framing was done on 2x4s, instead of 2x6s?
I have seen people use 2x4, so I know some people try it, but from my experience, 2x4 gives you a lot more "bounce" and will probably eventually cause some problems, whether it's the wood itself or the hardware slowly loosening as it bounces and moves with the structure. In my opinion at least. 2x4 are definitely strong end to end taking force, but since you are pulling hard on an overhang, your directional load is also kind of perpendicular to the lumber and grain, so i personally wanted something a little more reliable. I kind of treated it like if you were doing framing on a floor in a house, seeing as it is taking body weight and you are loading across the members and typically most floors are framed with 2x6 dimensional joists. As i mention in the video, I'm not an engineer, so i just tried to build within my comfort zone. I hope that helps!
Great build! Which ratchet straps did you use and how did you attach them to the supports?
Hey! I used Husky straps that I picked up at good ol' Home Depot. Not sure if they had a specific name or description, but they were rated for a safe working load of 1000lbs and a tested breaking strength of 3000lbs, and they had the double welded hook, not the open eye-hook. I used bolts and washers to secure them in place. I have had a couple questions from different places come in about the build, requesting more details - so I have put a link to a post at the bottom of the video description where you can find some close-up photos and explanations of the base and the straps. I hope that helps! Thanks!
I’ve been trying to find an in-depth wall guide and you seem to have the best one. I do have a question though, I’m seeing people who just spray their wall with holds with regular star bit screws. It looks as if there clearly isn’t enough T-nuts to possibly fit the amount of holds they have. My question is: how are they doing this? Are they doubling up on plywood or something? Or just drilling into the regular 3/4 inch plywood? My apologies if you don’t know the answer to this but it’s what I’m looking to do.
Hey, no worries. Believe it or not, some people have a super high density of T-Nuts, and you don't have to follow a grid, so some of these walls might actually still have the majority of the holds held on with T-Nuts. However, with that said, you are right, some just use screw on holds instead of bolt on. Lots of companies produce series of holds that are meant to be screw-on, instead of bolt on, and in those cases those holds have multiple countersunk holes to use several screws to fashion them to the wall. Some companies make a type of washer to use a screw in a normal bolt hole for holds that are typically meant for bolting, Escape Climbing's product is called The Lonestar. In the case of this hardware, it should only be used on smaller holds and only on holds that have holes for additional set-screws - or if the hold doesn't have spots for set-screws, drill your own countersunk set-holes so you have some. Like I mention, this only really works well with smaller holds, where larger holds you are likely to be putting too much leverage on them are inviting the possibility to rip the holds out of the wall or to shear the screws. As for the plywood, I do believe that most just screw through the wood as is, no doubling up. Just make sure to use solid 3/4" (or the metric equivalent) plywood. Attaching in this way would be a good example where I think having a high-quality grade of plywood is more important.
Hey, man. This is awesome, thanks for sharing. Is the kickboard attached to the floor? If not, do you feel it unstable while climbing or changing the wall angle?
Hey, no problem, glad you like it. The triangle base with the overhanging side supports keep it quite stable and I haven't really had an issue with it at all. I did design it in a way that it could be sandbagged (or just using cinder blocks or something) to keep it even more stable/offset the weight, but I haven't needed to do it. Unfortunately my site is having some server side issues and sometimes doesn't load (or loads very slowly, sorry) but I have some more details on there and you can see the lumber I added - that you can place additional weight on - in one of the last detailed shots (labelled as #8 on it): www.sendstory.ca/2020/04/26/send/building-an-adjustable-home-climbing-wall-during-isolation-12ft-bouldering-wall-full-build-video/
You can also see me adjust the wall in more detail in the first wall update video we did on the channel, which might show it better and also be helpful. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for the comment!
Hi, did you screw in the vertical and horizontal supports at an angle to drive into the studs? Mostly wondering about the flat horizontal ones...the verticals will probably be easier to do so. What snaps did you use and where can I find them? TY! :)
Where I could, I drove screws straight through the vertical studs into the ends of the horizontal ones, but where it was blocked, I did drive them in on an angle (toe nail). You could also use square brackets for this and/or offset them a bit. Hopefully that helps! Thanks for the comment!
@@SendStory thank you!
Nice wall that you have. What is the seize (dimension) that you made? (heigt, widht, kicker) 😉
If you would start over and make a new one. What would you sugetst to do and not to do?
Thanks! To keep it easy to build, fairly standard, and a manageable size, most dimensions are based off of the standard sheet sizes. So the wall is 8ft wide (plywood sheet heigh here) and 10ft tall (2.5 x 4ft which is the width of a sheet). The remaining half plywood sheet was used for the kicker, so 2ft.
I actually did a followup video to this one talking about the good and bad of the build after using it for a while, so it might be with checking that out! But basically I wish it was a bit wider, but circumstances meant I couldn't really do that.
Hope that answers your questions, thanks a lot for the comment!
@@SendStory Thanks for the info. I will take a look to your other videos.
I want to know how you put it back to 45⁰ if you have to unspool the ratchet straps then the purpose of the ratchet straps is to set the wall 45 to 35 and not the other way around
Hey, the straps are definitely better in one direction than in the other, but they can still be used independently to capture distance and help lower it. Essentially if you are alone, you can just release the tension one side at a time, move the leg slightly, then re-lock the ratcheting mechanism and do the same on the other side. The way that the legs are angled actually mean that a lot of the weight of the wall is distributed down the legs into the ground and not outwards, so technically, when you loosen a strap, the wall stays put from my experience and you actually have to pull the leg to move it out. With two people you could change the angle quite quickly, and I would argue, safely, without much fuss. Alternatively, I mention in the video using a backup chain system with a carabiner at some point for redundancy, if that is installed, you can use that as well to help you lower the wall alone. Someone also mentioned "belaying" the wall on a gri-gri if you needed to, and while I think that is unnecessary (the steps I already wrote are more than enough to lower it), that would also work. I hope that helps.
1:00 - Noticed your said “I’m not supposed to” instead of “I’m not” 🧐🤣🤫 #IYKYK
Haha. Oh, I was tempted, but I actually somehow refrained from climbing there... well, to be honest, the sub-zero temperatures when I made this probably had more to do with that though, ha. Thanks for the comment!
hey i have been wanting to build my own wall however im not sure on how i work out what supports i need for my wall
Like I mention in the video, I'm not an engineer, so I would have someone with structural knowledge look over anything you build that you are worried about. Typically, using house framing as an example you can roughly figure out what kind of lumber you need and how it should be assembled. In construction, you want anything load bearing to be resting/supported directly by structure (in this case, lumber). The type of support you need will depend on your design, so it's hard to comment without knowing what it looks like, but typically you want to be using at least 2x6 for supports and if you aren't tying into other existing structure (like a wall or roof), you want to have your supports in the direction of the load. So in my example, since I wasn't tying into structure (it was free standing), and it was designed to be over-hanging, I put my supports on a diagonal to make it an A-frame. So when my force is pulling down with gravity and out from the wall, the legs (supports) are taking that force. I hope that helps, there is a good resource on Facebook called "the home climbing forum" which might be able to help you out more as well. Good luck!
This is great! So detailed, thank you - I’m currently starting my process into building my own wall.
I was wondering why you decided to go with the industrial grade t nuts (3 screws) instead of the t nuts with the teeth, that you just can hammer in. I assume it’s because the industrial ones are stronger and less likely to strip? Do you think it’s worth it to buy the industrial t nuts over the other ones?
Thanks for the comment. I have used hammer-ins in the past and had a few issues. One of them being that because you hammer them in, the force of the strikes can force them in on odd angles sometimes if you aren't careful. The second issue I had no comparison to confirm, but I heard they tend to fail more frequently than the screw-ins. So far I think this is true, but it's not like the hammer-ins ripped out frequently or anything. Honestly though, on a volume I built, I simply put a bit of regular wood glue around outside of the holes i drilled before I hammered in the tnut and they have held up great. So, for a home wall I wouldn't worry too much about the tnut unless it is in a place you can't access - then it might be worth it for the screw-ins
Send Story awesome thanks for the reply!! 😊 very helpful!
I have a question about building my own adjustable home wall using a foundation as a kicker. Is there anyway to get in contact?
I have an Instagram account, same name (also linked in the about section of the channel). I'm pretty sure it's public, so you can follow and/or just message me there!
Hey. Great build. What is the mattress that you used?
Thanks for the comment! We actually kind of cheated on that, as the mat is actually an old mat from an actual climbing gym. However, we did end up modifying it and rejigging it to our needs. We talk about it in more detail in our wall update video (towards the end) there should be link to that video in the description of this video. We can give you some ideas based on what we have learned and what we know others have done though:
Basically you want to have different layers of foam to properly protect you from the impact of falls. What we have seen done is using a thinner layer of ridged closed cell foam at the bottom of the mat to ensure if there is enough force that you go through the other layers, you don't bottom out to the hard floor/ground beneath. Then you want a softer and thicker piece of foam in the middle to absorb most of the impact. Then on the top you want another thinner layer of more rigid foam to disperse the forces over a larger surface area. This will also give your ankles something more sturdy to land and balance on so you don't end up rolling them or toppling over awkwardly.
In terms of what exact materials to use, we have seen many different solutions, from some pretty professional usage of foams from foam supply companies and upholsterers, to some cheaper and maybe less reliable home made solutions. One of those home made solutions I have seen is using a few layers of rigid foam (like those square foam tiles) then laying down old memory foam mattresses, then another layer of foam or carpet to make the top more stable. Not entirely sure how well this works, but just that we have seen it.
Whatever materials you use, you will want to contain them all together and protect them with a surface that is durable and easy to clean. A heavy duty vinyl tarp/upholster material is the best for this, which is what professional mats are wrapped with. That is also the material that we used when we modified our mat. I wouldn't say it is cheap, but it also isn't crazy expensive either, and it will do it's job properly.
Sorry for the long response, hope that helps you wrap your head around what you might need for mats.
What sort of hinges did you use, I'm thinking of doing something like this but not sure how
I used hefty gate hinges meant for outdoor use, as mentioned in the video, I used longer and stronger screws instead of what they came with. Alternatively, some people have used slightly bigger lumber and have put a metal pipe or conduit through a hole they drill through all of the boards to act as a hinge.
What's the texture paint you used on the wall, deco paint?
We used a Behr paint from Home Depot that I believe was just called DeckOver. It's premixed with the aggregate in it. Hope that helps.
Hi! Amazing build! Looks bomber and we learned a lot. Thank you! We are also building a woody, and have a very similar design. I have a quick question: we are trying to figure out a solution to adjust the wall to fully vertical (we have both novice and experienced climbers in the house). Did you try to get close to vertical (what's the smallest angle you tried)? How did it go?
Hey Ninianne, The way I designed this, it should be operational at 15 degrees overhung. However, with that said, I have yet to adjust it to that position and drill the pilot holes for the pins to be placed to lock it on that angle. Technically, with the way the hinges are placed, you should be able to make a wall that can adjust to exactly vertical, but no further back than that. The problem with having it vertical is that it no longer creates an A-frame structure and is lacking the support to stop it from toppling over one direction or the other. I think if you were to try to make one that adjusts completely vertical, I would make sure you have some type of braces on both the front and back to widen it's footprint and give it a triangulated support on both sides to withstand the forces put on it and ensure it isn't top-heavy. You could do this with some bolts and wingnuts that allow you to add supports and remove them in "vertical-mode". I think the main issue here would be that adjusting it to that position might get cumbersome and you might do it a lot less than you think you will. Part of the reason I haven't adjusted mine to 15 degrees yet is for the same reason, it takes some effort to adjust and just like most people, I can be lazy. I hope this helps! Good luck!
@@SendStory Thank you so much for your thorough reply! Indeed we are re-considering the need for a fully vertical mode. Maybe it's better for new climbers to train on overhangs from the get-go.
No problem. I think for what it's worth, after beginners get some strength, and in all honesty, technique, they will fair well on something with an overhang. I think slabs are great for technique, and I definitely think that they should be practiced, but for a home wall, it's hard to set good slabs in limited spaces. Technically any wall can be turned into a slab wall, so that might be another option to have in addition to your overhanging wall - have a flat traverse wall somewhere just to practice and when they are strong enough they can move over to the other wall. Thanks again for the comment.
I can't even imagine how long it takes you to edit these videos wow. Just the 3d version of the drill tells me days of editing minimum
Honestly, they take way too long, I don't want to sacrifice the production, but I think I need to find a way to optimize it. It's funny you mention the drill, because that was the only thing I didn't 100% make from scratch. I was totally going to make it, but I stumbled upon that free model and I modified it, textured it, animated it and all the other elements is all me. I guess that is one thing I did optimize. Haha. Thanks for the kind words.
@@SendStory The colors matched the rest of your look so I assumed you did some work! Still great quality, keep it up!
wish I had the space to build something like this.
Let me guess, apartment? Not sure what you are working with, but there are a bunch of pretty interesting home builds in apartment if you can sneakily do it.
I'm getting ready to build a Moonboard inspired by this design! However, as I sketch out my plans, I've got three questions about the legs.
1. What is the angle of the part of the leg that the removable bolt goes through with respect to the main leg? It looks like 45 degrees, but I thought I'd check.
2. How long is the part of the leg that contains the removable bolt? The picture on your blog says about 3', but I'm curious what it ended up as.
3. How log is the segment of the main leg between the permanent bolt and the leg with the removable bolt?
The image on our site with angles and measurements is about as accurate as we can get without us running around with a measuring tape to get the exact exact measurements (right now it is also pouring rain and hail and seems like a tornado out there). It is a bit hard to visual the exact measurements you are describing and I think that the image should have the angles. I realize that the numbers are a bit small, and I meant to have the image be expandable when clicked on to read better, so I have done that now (hopefully that helps!). Any measurements that are approximated on that image are within a few inches or even less, so they are pretty close to how they are stated. Some of the actual placements/cuts were done on the fly with reference to our plans, so they just aren't 100% true, but pretty darn close. Our advice would be to just leave some extra material at the ends of the legs/extensions, that way you know you have the distances you will need for sure, and then you can trim them down later. I would say don't over sweat the details, as long as nothing it too short, a few inches difference shouldn't have a major impact. Hopefully that helps, and if it doesn't, or you have another question, feel free to respond and I will try to provide more details if need be. Thanks for the comment and good luck!
@@SendStory omg, you definitely did have the “45 degree cut” on that image, I just missed it. 😂🤦♂️
Thanks for following up!
@@BenWillkommen no worries. Honestly, I had to double check the image to be sure that it was there, and, to be fair, without enlarging the image it's hard to read and I didn't have it set so you could click on it and expand the image before. So I'm glad you asked because it prompted me to do that. So thanks.
Great content! Can I ask what hinges you used? Also, are the horizontal supports at the back of the wall (the ones that look to be where the ply panels join) screwed to the vertical studs, or just to the ply?
Thanks
Hey! We used gate hinges from Home Depot, I think they were something like 40lbs hinges? Also, as mentioned in the video, we replaced the stock screws that came with the hinges with heavier duty screws that penetrated deeper into the studs. As for the horizontal supports, they are tied into the studs that run vertically. They were mainly just toe nailed into the studs. Technically, we dont think they add much structural enforcement, they were mainly just for mending the different pieces of ply, so we dont think you need to tie them into the studs. However, we just figured a some extra hardware cant hurt and it would probably help to further ensure there is minimal racking/skewing. Hope that helps! Thanks for the comment!
@@SendStory thanks for the reply!!
how many btbam shirts you own man? loving it. great build. just wondering what size wood you think would be minimum requirement for the frame on the back of the boards? Cheers!
Haha, someone noticed. It wasn't until I edited that I realized that I was basically wearing exclusively their merch. I pretty much buy all my shirts at shows, and they are one of my favourite bands, so I have a lot (plus my wife's shirts). As for the boards, I think 2x6 should be the minimum for this design. Some people build with 2x4, but I hear that flexes for a lot of people, so probably not the best bet especially if you are doing 24" on center like this one. If you wanted to try to save a buck, you could make the outer frame and legs thicker lumber, and center vertical supports 2x4, but the savings are probably minimal and it would make adding any type of back cover for weather more annoying to attach and have a bow in the middle. Following general house framing rules is a good idea, and most floor joists are a minimum of 2x6. Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks for the comment.
@@SendStory thanks for getting back man. I've since built my own wall using pretty well recycled timber from around my parents yard. (bought a few 2x6's for the legs). It cranks! Loved the video. And yeah, btbam fucking rock. seen em a couple times down here in Aus
Covid makes us do the same, we start building tomorrow but I have mine inside and non adjustable (it's covering the roof)
That's awesome! Having a physical roof to cover the wall is definitely the best way, and being inside will mean you will probably get the most use out of it. Being adjustable is a neat feature, but it is definitely not necessary, I am sure you will love your wall. Best of luck and enjoy!
@@SendStory 😁
Great video - any plans on publishing/selling the build plans? Would love to take a closer look at the 3D model
Thanks! I have updated the page linked in the description to give more detail. I also rendered out a more detailed image for you with some measurements that I used. Unfortunately I dont plan on making a full build guide, there are already a bunch out there that are really helpful. As mentioned in the video and on that page, if you want a full build guide, Climber Dad has already put something very similar together with cut lists and a full purchase list, and I think that would be a good place to start. Based on what I saw in his guide, you should be able to follow most of his guide and then just modify as you see fit (like if you want to add some of the differences that my build has). I hope this helps!
@@SendStory Would you be willing to share the 3D model you created?
@@deathtonovember Hey, I actually have a link to the file on the page linked at the bottom of the description of this video. It should be under the rendering image on that page! Hopefully you can find it and it helps!
how did you attach the horizontal and vertical bracing? pocket screws?
I actually just offset them by half their depth so I could screw directly through the vertical studs into the bracing ends. You could probably "toe-nail" or pocket screw holes if the obsessive compulsive in you wanted them all to line up, but I think you would lose some of the rigidity you get from screwing right through. Hope that helps!
@@SendStory ah that makes sense, thanks dude
This is awesome!! I’m from Chile and this is an incredible home wall!
I have a question, how do you do to adjust the angle back to 45, from 35 for example?
I mean, how do you make the angle stronger after you already put it higher up?
My fear is that the wall just fall down.
Thank you so much!
Totally a valid question. I've only lessened the angle once, so I can't day I've adjusted it a lot. However, if you adjust it slightly one side at a time, it seems fine, just a little clunky. So essentially you just loosen one side a bit, then lock the ratchet, and then do the same on the other side and go back and forth at a pace you feel comfortable with. Alternatively, if you had two people you could both adjust it similarly, but a lot faster and even on both sides.
@@SendStory Thank you so much for your answer!!
@@raisadegodoy9071 no problem! Hope it helps
Warning: the pins near the kicking board are too close to the hinges to be load bearing. The wall acts as a lever and the shear forces on these pins could easily reach 10 fold the force of the wall and the climber, esp. at 45 deg.. You can therefore not rely on them as a back up safety system in case the straps fail. Not sure how strong the house wall is, but that may be a safer securing point as back up.
Interesting. I think the load would need to shear the pins for the kicker brace-to-frame connection, as well as the lower frame pinned connection you are describing. so the load would be shared (unequally) across the two upper and two lower pins. I would upsize all of those bolts that you are using as pins, they look like 12mm or 1/2" right now, I would go to 20mm or 3/4" for a bit more beef. I think if your careful about inspecting the strap regularly they are unlikely to fail suddenly, catastrophically and both at the same time.
Do you have the blender files available somewhere?
Hey! Just uploaded the .blend to Blend Swap - you can find the link under the image of the rendering on the build page on our website (linked in the description of this video). Not sure it offers a whole lot more than the descriptions and images on the page, but we hope that helps!
Damn never seen t nuts you need to screw in nice ass wall dude
Yea man, the screw-ins tend to last a bit longer with fewer issues, and so far so good (hopefully I'm not jinxing it). Thanks for the comment!
Solid wall. You wouldn't happen to have the link to those hinges, would you?
Hey, thanks for the comment! I can't be 100% sure, but I think these are what I used ( www.homedepot.ca/product/everbilt-3-1-2-inch-post-gate-hinge-in-black-1pk/1000773477 ). Hopefully that helps!
@@SendStory That definitely looks like it. Thanks man! Also, any issues with them so far?
@@spm04 We definitely have had no issues. I have also heard of people drilling a hole through all of the studs, off-setting the base/kickplate studs, and using a steel electrical conduit/pipe fed through them for the hinge - if you were worried about it. The only issue with the pipe method would be that the gap between the kickplate and board face/overhang would be noticeably larger because of where the pivot point is and you are technically removing material in the middle of your studs, so you would probably require thicker lumber.
Again, we have had no issues. Not to plug a video, but we have a new one that we posted with some updates and talk about how the wall adjusts a bit more and about how it's loaded/carries weight, which might answer some of your questions. It is long winded, but we always throw in time stamps on our videos if you feel like skipping along. czcams.com/video/IeKg5q4-ELU/video.html
@@SendStory Thank you for all of the input! I'll definitely take it into consideration. And I'll give that video a watch for sure. It'll probably enlighten me on a bunch of other questions I'll eventually have. Thanks again!
Great video! Me and my friends are going to build one like this! Did you only paint the plywood or the 2x's as well? also how much paint did you use for weatherproofing it?
I used exterior grade paint on the plywood, two coats on the entire boards. Make sure you paint before you put the T-Nuts in the wall, otherwise you can get paint in the threads and it will be really annoying and in some cases almost impossible to get out. I didnt paint the structure/dimensional lumber because it was all pressure treated and is all above grade and can dry. However, with that said, there is also pressure treated plywood, but I am not sure of it's strength/integrity. I also tarped the back of the wall after it was all assembled to keep the weather out of the T-Nuts and to remove the possibility for water to sit or pool in the structure and get into the ply. Some people also use other materials like corrugated plastics or light roofing substrates, but I wanted something simple, cheap and super light, so tarps were what I ended up with. Lastly, I would make your kick plate / kicker / kick board (or whatever you want to call it - the straight panel just about the ground) a tiny bit shorter than the frame it sits on because you dont want it sitting on the ground and have the chance to wick up moisture. I hope that helps!
@@SendStory Thanks so much for the reply and the tips! I was just wondering cause I'd have mine in my back yard with sprinklers and such so I might try tarping like you said or staining or painting what I can. Thanks again for the help!
Did you bolt the kicker board to the ground or does it free stand based upon the legs and overall structure?
I did put two regular screws into the deck just to be safe/ keep it from shifting. But I did design the base to have extra surface area to stay in place, as well as have a spot to put weights if need be too stop it from shifting. There is a link in the description where you can see more detailed photos and details of it. I have moved since and moved the wall as well. The wall is now on a concrete patio (nothing to bolt/screw to). I added a few regular bricks to that base plate I mention above (pictured on the site) for good measure, but not even sure if I need them. The wall hasn't shifted in its place at all.
Thanks so much
@@lukeyong8881 no problem, hope it helps!
Do you mind sharing your 3D blender file? I'm considering building my own and want to compare designs, and maybe borrow/steal some of your ideas :P
Hey, I will try to see if I can upload a file at some point when I get a second. Not sure how hopeful it will be (it's pretty basic), I did upload a render with measurements on the link in the bottom of the description, that might be more useful. Let me know if that helps!
I am fairly certain it is much too late, but just uploaded the .blend to Blend Swap - you can find the link under the image of the rendering on the build page on our website (linked in the description of this video). Not sure it offers a whole lot more than the descriptions and images on the page, but hope that helps!
Sick video! what wood did you use?
Thanks! For the face or the structure? For the face I used plywood that is used for exterior sheathing, not the best, but it is what I had and when painted it should last long enough. For the structure I used pressure treated 2x6 dimensional lumber. Typically these are generic and are made of either spruce, pine, or fir. I am pretty sure these ones were spruce. Any lumber that is used for structure, like house framing or decking is fine, but if your board is going to be outside, you are going to want to use pressure treated lumber. I hope that helps!
Nice Design. Why use screw down t-nuts? Pronged t-nuts would have saved you quite some time.
Yea, definitely could have been easier with hammer-ins. There were a few reasons why we decided on the screw-ins, some of those reasons made more sense than others. One is that I knew this was going outside and was in a rental, so there is the possibility of eventually needing to replace the plywood, and also the chance of moving - so possibly tearing it down and reusing parts of it. I guess if I was to remove the T-nuts to reuse elsewhere, it would cost more in time and energy - but I am cheap and try to not waste. The other reason is simply for repairing the wall, I have worked with the pronged/hammer-in T-Nuts in the past and have had them fail and have heard of similar issues from some others as well. But I agree, the pronged T-Nuts are probably more than fine for most people and situations. Thanks for the comment, appreciate it.
Amazing build thank you for sharing. Do you have a breakdown of materials and cost?
No problem! Thanks for the comments. Unfortunately I dont have a breakdown of costs and materials, but if you watch the video carefully you should be able to figure out the general material list. Every piece of lumber is 2x6, and 24" on center - so that works out to be 5 studs running vertical and then a base and top plate. That is true for the kicker and the adjustable wall. The legs I think are 12 ft lengths, and then the cross-bracing for the base is just cut downs from the other lumber pieces.
One of the reasons we dont have a full materials list or a breakdown of costs is because we wanted to build this wall for a while and were slowly collecting materials and parts over time and bought things like holds slowly on sale and such. I would say the build part, minus the price of holds, probably was around $1000, but most likely a bit under that. Some things might be over built slightly, and you might be able to do it cheaper. However with that said, the price of materials has definitely gone up since covid, so we would have no clue what they are right now.
There are also some more details and pictures through a link on our description that go to our site that might help you figure out materials along with the video. I would suggest always trying to get an extra piece of lumber or two, just in case you have any mis-cuts or other issues. Plus, you will always be able to use extra dimensional lumber somewhere. I hope that helps! Good luck!
@@SendStory Thank you, the breakdown on your site is helpful. I've since watched several other home builds and have compiled a rough material and cost list. Side note, do you use Blender for fun or career? Asking because I work in the gaming industry as a 3D artist, I plan on mocking up my build in 3D first as well. Thanks again!
@@clarkcoots Definitely started as a hobby, but I have slowly been introducing it to my professional career. The caveat there is that my job technically doesnt involve 3d, and if it does it is often an outsourced skill (I am in the general "design" world). Honestly, Blender is a specular program that is so unbelievably modular that it makes my head hurt sometimes just thinking about the offerings it provides while being open source. Thanks again for the comment, I appreciate it.
Do you have the blender file? I am creating my own wall but am struggling with constraints to get the hinge actions to work.
Hey, I actually have it through a link on our site (buried low in this video description, but right now the hosting company is doing maintenance and the site is deathly slow). Here is a work around link: blendswap.com/blend/26374 - Unfortunately, I dont think I have the constraints and such working in that file, but you should be able to work around it by just setting your cursor to the pivot point (inner bottom vertices of the wall face) and setting your rotation tool to pivot (transform) around the cursor. A bit clunky, but it should hopefully do more or less the same thing you are looking for (I hope). Feel free to ask any questions if you need to, good luck!
@@SendStory thanks a bunch for the reply. I'll definitely take a look at the blender file. I'm struggling with constraints at the moment. I'm also building a free standing board that changes angle, but mine is a bit more complex then your design czcams.com/video/2bqjb62jqSE/video.html . Do you have any resources that helped you to better understand constraints and armature rigging? I'm totally stuck right now; I'm frying my brain just looking at this blender project and not knowing how to even begin to get this thing properly constrained or rigged.
@@CapableCaptain-ahoy honestly, I unfortunately don't have a good answer for you. I have watched a bunch of tutorials over the years on rigging and just leaned on that memory/knowledge. The rig I made was definitely finicky and not perfect (it might have been a little bit of animation on top of the rig to fix pitfalls of it... can't remember), rigging can get super complicated and almost like visual programming. I think cgcookie had some good rigging tutorials (not sure if they were free or behind the paywall), but I would watch any CZcams blender tutorials on rigging mechanical actions/movements specifically. I think on this animated demo I used parenting quite a bit (parenting things to eachother and to empties). Also, the object origin points definitely played a role in it (having the origin point set to the pivot point rather than the center of mass). If I have time and can find the animated file, I will try to see if I can provide more info/upload a video somewhere for you. Sorry if that isn't much help.
@@SendStory no, everything you said right now was quite helpful. I searched up mechanical rigging and I think that's exactly what I need to learn. It really is complicated 😅, I'm just glad that it's objectively complicated and not just difficult for me. The blender file with the animations and such would be helpful, but don't stress over trying to find it if it's buried deep somewhere on your computer. Thanks again for the help. Building a home wall is definitely quite the project.
@@CapableCaptain-ahoy yea, it's funny you asked about the wall mechanics because I've been thinking about modifying/updating the wall again. So I might find myself in the same spot as you soon. Good luck!
How much was all this minus the holds ?
Hey! I think it was probably all under $1000 (CAD). It is hard to say though, because I had been planning on building some kind of climbing structure for a while and accumulated some hardware and had built up a little supply of lumber before hand, so it would definitely be an estimation. Also, right now lumber costs are through the roof because of Covid, so my figures probably dont add up. Something else to consider, which isnt something you asked, but I figured I would share to help you budget more accurately, when you are thinking about holds, dont forget you need to get the bolts with them. They are an additional cost. Some sites allow you to order your holds with bolts, this is probably the best option so you are including that in the budget. Hopefully some of that was helpful. Thanks for the comment.
approximately how much did all the material cost for the structure?
All in, probably about 1000 dollars. Not particularly cheap, but there are probably some things you could save some money on. I tend to over-build a little sometimes.
Where did u get the holds?
I had collected a bunch over the past few years, finding sales and buying them slowly. Some of them I made too, and I think I'm going to make some more. Are you looking for a place to buy them?
What paint did u use in your panels brother?
I just used a Home Depot Behr paint product for coating decks. I can't remember what it was called, but it has texture (aggregate) premixed into it. It has held up well and is still on there, just outside my window waiting for me to climb up a soon as it stops raining here. Some people don't want to coat their walls because the paint can cause the holds to stick, but if it's outdoors, paint would be a good idea. The texture also let's you flag and smear and use the wall better, and it also makes it less likely for your holds to spin. Plus... it just looks aesthetically more pleasing and finished. My advice if you paint it is to let it cure for a long time before setting your holds. You might still get a few that stick, but it will be better. A soft mallet usually helps pop holds that are stuck on easily without fuss, and if you just apply a little climbing chalk on the back of the holds when you reset them, it should alleviate most of that issue. Alternatively, if you use a two part epoxy type paint and add in your own aggregate, it should fully cure and your holds should not stick, but that kind of product is super toxic and smells terrible, usually is not sold to consumers (you would have to buy it as a business), and is much more expensive. I hope that helps!
Oh, and almost forgot, I believe the texture also helps stop holds from sticking as badly as they might on walls that are just painted without aggregate since it creates a uneven surface and less paint product is coming in full contract with the holds. That is my theory at least, so an opinion of one, take it or leave it. Figured I would add that in just in case you are contemplating texture.
Tnx alot brother but i think we dont have that in our place and i do u9 thnk that paint can withstand the monsoon?
@@dynoboypajarillo1065 hmm, that is a tricky one. On the back of the wall I attached some tarping for direct weather. I have a few update videos that show that a bit better, if you wanted to check that out for context. For monsoon weather, I would suggest attaching the tarp with slats of wood and screws to keep it from failing under heavy rain and wind. I also added a bit of an overhang to the lip of the wall, that would also probably help with weather. Best of luck!
…nice woodie!
Awww yeeee
Would you share the .blend? Great work.
I have had a few requests for the file, I am going to try to clean it up and upload it somewhere, I will try to link it when it's available when I have a second. Thanks for the comment!
@@SendStory did this ever happen, would be great to have access to that for personal use and planning, appreciate the video and renders regardless!
@@shadowmage680 Honestly. It hasn't. I completely forgot, things have been a little nuts, as I am sure it has for everyone. I will however try to get something for people, I swear. I will comment on this when there is something tangible to download.
Hey Guys, I didnt forget, kind of. Just uploaded the .blend to Blend Swap - you can find the link under the image of the rendering on the build page on our website (linked in the description of this video). Not sure it offers a whole lot more than the descriptions and images on the page, but we hope that helps! Sorry for the delay.
How much did this all cost
Probably about $1000 all in. Depending on how you plan on using it, where you put it, how long you want it to last, etc., you could probably build it for cheaper. The Climber Dad link in my description has something super similar, but probably cheaper to build if that is too high of a budget. Hope that helps.
How’s it holding up after 9 months? Pun, not intended.
Puns are totally allowed here. Haha. Honestly the wall is totally fine. I don't know if you have seen the update video, but the only thing so far that will need some attention is the snap on tarp that I showed in that video. We had a storm that had like close to hurricane force winds that unfortunately tore some holes in it that I since have temporarily patched. However, the good news in all that is that the wall held up just fine. Thanks for the comment.
that poor guy tory. whys he getting so much hate?
AWESOME BUILD! very versatile, yet still super strong, nice planning!
I have 2 walls on my page you can check out ...
one is my most popular video , the other might take some digging around to find...
Sweet man, I dig the placement against the deck! I guess that makes for some pretty fun problems that top-out.
@@SendStory thanks for checking them out! Yeah, the deck wall is really cool, you can top out and then take the slide back to the bottom.
Damn nice to see! I built my own little free standing setup indoors. It’s purely meant for finger boards and pull ups to practice finger strength. Definitely want to also build an outdoor setup because as you said it’s helpful but I also want to build something to actually practice problems on. And definitely something adjustable because that keep things interesting and versatile.
@rikvdmark on Instagram for pictures of my current setup ;)
I was literally just about to start asking if you had posted the setup anywhere and then I read your last line. I will definitely check it out, thanks for the comment!
@@SendStory lol, you're very welcome ;)
Alittle while aka 6 months
fun joke with the grocery list
Only a half joke at the time, ha. Thanks for the comment!
And tarp the top when not in use to protect against nature.
We also posted a follow up video that shows the tarping system we put together to keep the weather out. Feel free to check that out if you haven't already, might give you some other ideas too.
@@SendStory will do, thanks for the info
BTBAM