How to Set Boulders & Routes - For all level!

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  • čas přidán 25. 01. 2020
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    Setting routes and boulders in the new climbing gym in Kristiansand!
    This video was edited by: Markus ►@skaane
    Erlend ► @erlendnundal
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Komentáře • 661

  • @Corvin1991
    @Corvin1991 Před 4 lety +693

    Since i found this video really entertaining, now imagine Magnus. You set a boulder on one of these walls every now and then. You film it, doesnt have to take the whole time of the video, maybe just like an outro "thanks for watching, if you stay a little longer ill show how i set up this months boulder in timelapse, see you next time" people then can come to your gym and try it for a month - they can film it and send it to you - you choose the one who did it the "coolest" or "most aesthetic" way, and this person wins to set up a route for YOU, and you try it then and rate it. It´ll also be kinda lika a "meet and greet" but which is truely earned since they have to do the boulder. F***, i would totally watch that! i would even fly in to try yours.

  • @joshkornblum1881
    @joshkornblum1881 Před 4 lety +664

    stoked to enjoy video this with a cup of chalk in the morning

    • @GameTimeWhy
      @GameTimeWhy Před 4 lety +12

      The best part of waking up, is white powder in a cup.

    • @Goldap1000
      @Goldap1000 Před 4 lety +10

      @@GameTimeWhy "I meant sugar officer."

  • @travelingtochill
    @travelingtochill Před 4 lety +604

    Magnus: I‘m gonna set a downward dyno...
    Also Magnus: It‘s bad for your shoulders.

    • @verticalamity
      @verticalamity Před 4 lety +19

      ... but it's not a World Cup, so what could possibly go wrong? 😆

    • @philaeew4866
      @philaeew4866 Před 4 lety +15

      the downward dynos they'd have to set for world cup level climbers would probably be much further and harder - and therefore much more taxing on the shoulders. A small one should be okay, I guess...

    • @cornelisgraper8678
      @cornelisgraper8678 Před 4 lety +14

      @@philaeew4866 Exactly. The problem with downward dyno's lies in the fact that you gain a lot of downwards momentum because you're basically falling. Catching that creates huge peak force which might cause shoulder problems. So as long as the momentum is not too big both downwards and sideways it's quite OK.

    • @g.h7657
      @g.h7657 Před 4 lety +5

      @@cornelisgraper8678 shoulder and ligament/joint strength comes into play there.

  • @ZackBellGames
    @ZackBellGames Před 4 lety +373

    It was so incredibly satisfying seeing him fail that last one, get taught the clock move(s), then try again, push through, and succeed. Such a fun video. Hadn't watched anyone design routes before. I can see how it could get addicting and feel like an art--making it visually appealing, forcing satisfying moves and shapes, etc. FIVE STARS, plus chalk!

    • @MichielVerhoef
      @MichielVerhoef Před 4 lety +5

      There's one video where Jake (Bouldering Bobat) is trying to remake a WorldCup boulder; also really interesting.

  • @markusroper5584
    @markusroper5584 Před 4 lety +118

    My Name is Markus and I rly was shocked, when Magnus said "We gonna teach you Markus how to set" and points at the camera at 0:53 ;D

  • @Skaane
    @Skaane Před 4 lety +225

    Thank you for absolutely destroying my beta, Magnus

    • @DekarNL
      @DekarNL Před 4 lety +5

      That was funny. However ontended strat looked quite cool.

    • @renelml
      @renelml Před 4 lety +3

      My first set was horrible, you did great! Your climbing looks like it's improving as well!

    • @Zach-ul5fm
      @Zach-ul5fm Před 3 lety +1

      Do better. :-P I felt a tiny bit sorry for you even before he climbed it because the different beta was so obvious.

  • @Jacksam8uel
    @Jacksam8uel Před 4 lety +53

    “I’m Magnus Mitbø and this is my masterclass.”

  • @florianarbes
    @florianarbes Před 4 lety +36

    41:46 "Earls" face looks sooo worried when Magnus says that they are both investors. Don't worry man, it's going to be crazy good. I'll definitively visit!

  • @simonjohnston3100
    @simonjohnston3100 Před 4 lety +169

    "Do you know what a figure 4 is?" is basically the same question as "do you watch ice climbing?"

    • @_AtomBasher
      @_AtomBasher Před 4 lety +11

      Five minutes into watching ice climbing for the first time i felt like i knew that move like the back of my hand

    • @DavidSmith-pg1ob
      @DavidSmith-pg1ob Před 4 lety +7

      "Figure 4" was a leglock that was used in professional wrestling. Are you guys going to wrestle then? You should team up on Magnus! :-P

    • @mairsilpretner6119
      @mairsilpretner6119 Před 4 lety +5

      I don't watch ice climbing but I still know. I think I've seen it used at least twice in last year's IFSC cup finals, by female climbers.

    • @lst1nwndrlnd
      @lst1nwndrlnd Před 4 lety

      27:55 overcome by a powerful urge to hang. BRB!

  • @kmmackinnon
    @kmmackinnon Před 4 lety +20

    It’s refreshing to see such a consistently positive and supportive corner of the internet.

  • @mynchux
    @mynchux Před 4 lety +137

    That was awesome, Magnus. I know you’re not inclined to do this again with the livestream but I loved it and I suspect the rest of us did also

    • @magmidt
      @magmidt  Před 4 lety +60

      I loved it as well... even though the quality was shit

    • @michaelwagner6733
      @michaelwagner6733 Před 4 lety +19

      @@magmidt I think the quality was more than enough... the special thing about this was not quality but rather being able to connect with you while watching it and have this nice interaction :)
      Keep doing what you´re doing, it´s a big inspiration for all of us :)

    • @Hollidaysgang
      @Hollidaysgang Před 4 lety +1

      Sorry to squeeze in on your comment, but I gotta ask if Magnus has any merchandise, I would love to support your channel in any way I could, however small it may be, please message back

    • @pacificcoastpiper3949
      @pacificcoastpiper3949 Před 4 lety +4

      @@magmidt hey Magnus, I'm a climber from Eastern Washington State USA, I was born with feet that climb very well but on the ground, I use a wheelchair. what do you think about "disabled" people bouldering?? Please reply, thanks.

    • @Hollidaysgang
      @Hollidaysgang Před 4 lety +1

      @@magmidt just ordered a chalk bag, cant wait for shirts and the Magnus climbing shoes and all the great climbing gear to hopefully come in the future. What kind of rope do you prefer, mine is TRUBLUE, thank you for the great videos Magnus

  • @LitenLuni
    @LitenLuni Před 4 lety +56

    Magnus is the kind of guy everyone wants to be friends with

  • @Drainer26
    @Drainer26 Před 4 lety +2

    Make this a series! I'd watch this religiously and the videos don't even need to be that long

  • @TheRealGuywithoutaMustache
    @TheRealGuywithoutaMustache Před 4 lety +109

    I'm enjoying this right now drinking tea, not coffee.

    • @lgreenberg20
      @lgreenberg20 Před 4 lety +2

      Jellal would drink coffeeee

    • @evanhaddow2591
      @evanhaddow2591 Před 4 lety +1

      Stuff tea and coffee hot chocolete

    • @arcaneminded
      @arcaneminded Před 4 lety +1

      Is that because a frothy coffee would give you a mustache?

  • @felixvoytier9631
    @felixvoytier9631 Před 4 lety +8

    it s so relaxing to watch this, no rush in the editing, you just sit and enjoy

  • @pontusolssonPrivat
    @pontusolssonPrivat Před 4 lety +6

    I have finally watched EVERY single video you guys have uploaded! I think it's time for round 2.

  • @Gomace
    @Gomace Před 4 lety +41

    Why do I keep clicking on these videos about climbing? And why do I keep watching them all the way through?
    I don't even climb
    Dammit, Earl!

    • @nicolasrivera1282
      @nicolasrivera1282 Před 4 lety +8

      You should try it

    • @uremawifenowdave
      @uremawifenowdave Před 4 lety +10

      Gomace climbing is calling you. Join us, join us...

    • @tylerlego41
      @tylerlego41 Před 3 lety +2

      Plot twist: Gomace is flashing V8s, 7 months into his climbing journey

  • @lulliggg
    @lulliggg Před 4 lety +4

    I am drinking coffee while I'm watching this. I love you Magnus, hälsningar från Sverige.

  • @lordinch8282
    @lordinch8282 Před 4 lety +13

    Kinda glad I caught this live, definitely a different experience watching a video like this. Much love

  • @Dark_SQRL
    @Dark_SQRL Před 4 lety +25

    Oh boy, I'm going to have some coffee while watching this so excited.

  • @jacobsprague6732
    @jacobsprague6732 Před 4 lety +4

    This is why I feel like Magnus has such great content, he listens to viewers and it feels natural not forced in anyway whatsoever. Thank you!

  • @marioposada4978
    @marioposada4978 Před 4 lety +12

    This video was awesome. It was so different from what we're used to seeing, and I love the varying experience levels the 3 of you have. It's fun to watch the different ways you think. Markus you did a great job! Also, you've been a fantastic addition to the team. Thanks for your contribution thus far. :)

    • @Skaane
      @Skaane Před 4 lety +1

      Thank you! :D

  • @daulken
    @daulken Před 4 lety +6

    When you specifically request a setting video and Magnus delivers like a boss! :)

  • @thetrickster42
    @thetrickster42 Před 4 lety +7

    This is really fun. Love watching everyone try each other’s boulders

  • @kahlandar21
    @kahlandar21 Před 4 lety +9

    I love all of your content, and have been watching since you first went to visit Juji and Tom.
    I think this is my new favorite magnus video. I would love to see more route setting vids with more people, its both fantastic and educational to casual climbers like myself. I had no idea what a clock was until this video!

  • @JavaAndFracs
    @JavaAndFracs Před 4 lety +32

    I’m actually so exited to enjoy this over some coffee in the morning! Magnus is such an informative climber who never ceases to inspire :)

  • @connorshanks9931
    @connorshanks9931 Před 4 lety +17

    Oh boy, I'm going to watch this whilst drinking my coffee, very excited

  • @luketillery7827
    @luketillery7827 Před 4 lety +1

    All the buckets of new holds is the most satisfying thing a climber could ever see. Especially when you have a home wall, it’s even more satisfying.

  • @minimatamou8369
    @minimatamou8369 Před 4 lety +17

    4:20 I laughed at loud.
    You should do route setting more often, it's cool.
    Cheers all

  • @tylervelasquez5639
    @tylervelasquez5639 Před 4 lety +4

    Please keep doing these videos! I love route setting and this is great motivation to get the creative flow going

  • @viktorrosvall1337
    @viktorrosvall1337 Před 4 lety +3

    love this Magnus. your channel got me to start climbing, i started about 2 months ago and im at 6b/b+ now! best sort of "workout" ever!

  • @GameTimeWhy
    @GameTimeWhy Před 4 lety +1

    This is awesome. Really good editing and I love how you all interact so well with each other.

  • @wargames8503
    @wargames8503 Před 4 lety +11

    Oh boy! Can’t wait to watch this while drinking my coffee!

  • @David-go4ot
    @David-go4ot Před 4 lety +1

    Loved this kind of content to switch things up. That orange one you set was sick! Earl's technique vs. Markus' on the green boulder was what made it look so easy. He stayed close to the wall, engaged the toe hook and put the weight on his legs.

  • @blubberboy2812
    @blubberboy2812 Před 4 lety +10

    Great video as always Magnus. Because of you, I started climbing and I love it just did my first 6a+ a few days ago and I'm psyched to keep climbing when my arms stop feeling like they are going to fall off.

    • @magmidt
      @magmidt  Před 4 lety +7

      Thank you, keep climbing!

  • @joshuasturtevant9611
    @joshuasturtevant9611 Před 4 lety +2

    I watch and love all of your videos, but this one was just on a whole other level of interesting and fun to watch!! I really hope there will be more videos like this, especially with route setting for each other. Also I’ll never complain about 42 minutes of content👌🏻

  • @fauxbugnl9968
    @fauxbugnl9968 Před 4 lety +20

    premiers in 30 min which is 4 o'clock in the afternoon for me might as well enjoy it with some coffee in the morning.

  • @MsOperaPrincess
    @MsOperaPrincess Před 4 lety +1

    I need this upload schedule all the time Magnus and I love seeing the progress on the gym!

  • @kmayasobru5386
    @kmayasobru5386 Před 4 lety +2

    Amazing video Magnus, you always motivate me and brighten my day. Keep the hard work going!

  • @dummielp
    @dummielp Před 4 lety +2

    routesetting + magnus and the squad = best content ever! more of this please

  • @fishmate5443
    @fishmate5443 Před 4 lety +11

    One of your best for a while. It was good getting perspective from three different levels of climber, 6th, 7th and 8th grade. I'm sure unexperienced or non climbers appreciated this also.

  • @tonycrispin
    @tonycrispin Před 4 lety +2

    This was a really enjoyable video! Love to see what goes into setting routes.

  • @Filifow
    @Filifow Před 4 lety +2

    More of this please, especially Markus trying to set for Magnus is very entertaining.

  • @fgatzlaff
    @fgatzlaff Před 4 lety +6

    Nice, the best way to have a coffee in the morning is to watch a Sir Magnus Midtbo video on the side.

  • @whosniffedme
    @whosniffedme Před 4 lety +1

    I dig this Khruangbin sounding music much much more than the royalty-free CZcams techno. Thank you

  • @thesuperchoober
    @thesuperchoober Před 4 lety +1

    42 minute video for the morning, thank you sir

  • @theunseen010
    @theunseen010 Před 4 lety +1

    I don't know why, but this was the best video so far. I love it

  • @haydengutiw
    @haydengutiw Před 4 lety +3

    Figure of four is usually used in steep ice climbing. If you wrap your leg around your arm, sometimes you can reach farther. It’s helpful when you have a good hold with a big move to a bad hold that you can’t dyno to.

  • @MaxDuckwitz
    @MaxDuckwitz Před 4 lety +1

    Nice premiere! Really cool with the live chat and interactions, you should do this more often. Also, it would be cool to see some building vlogs about the gym, showing how the walls are being built and kind of the thoughts behind the individual walls.

  • @DanielSpiegel
    @DanielSpiegel Před 4 lety

    Really enjoyed watching the process of setting boulders and getting a professional opinion of moves/holds.

  • @JonHowes1
    @JonHowes1 Před 4 lety +1

    Such a cool looking building! Glad you guys were able to snag this.

  • @treestopper2
    @treestopper2 Před 4 lety +1

    Way to go Markus. That was a sick climb!

  • @Exi01
    @Exi01 Před 4 lety +2

    This is a great video, a lot of fun had and very instructive in the seemingly arcane art of setting

  • @rueby2kool
    @rueby2kool Před 2 měsíci

    This video was so much fun! I'm just getting into rock climbing and this video made me think so much about route setting. You guys are amazing rock climbers!

  • @ilkkakero3988
    @ilkkakero3988 Před 2 lety

    This is a second time I watch this episode. I like it. And it still smells fresh! Thank you.

  • @gorditospree
    @gorditospree Před 4 lety +1

    This video was so much fun to watch. All three of you climbed so great!

    • @Skaane
      @Skaane Před 4 lety +1

      Gorditospree thank you! It’s so cool that you guys enjoy the videos

  • @Solidclutch
    @Solidclutch Před 4 lety +1

    This is an awesome video! I would love to see more about your style of routesetting or what all goes into it for you.

  • @noah.wildlifephoto
    @noah.wildlifephoto Před 4 lety +2

    Super interesting video! Thanks Magnus.

  • @LKristof-
    @LKristof- Před 4 lety +2

    I'm already excited!

  • @user-fr6re5et8g
    @user-fr6re5et8g Před 4 lety +1

    Super excited abbout this one, Mr. Meatball! Can't wait to watch :)

  • @Stuntonin11
    @Stuntonin11 Před 4 lety

    30+mins videos

  • @jaimeaj24
    @jaimeaj24 Před 4 lety

    Hi Magnus!
    Loved the explanation of the holds towards the end.
    It gives newer climbers an idea of how you're supposed to tackle them.
    I'd love to see a a series of "ABC's of Climbing" videos, where you explain Terms, Techniques, Holds, what they look like, etc.
    Climbing CZcamsrs tend to mention these things in passing, but never a fun/interactive/detailed explanation.
    On a side note,
    Thanks for your videos!!
    I would've never gotten into bouldering if I hadn't come across your channel!!

  • @mgoe006
    @mgoe006 Před 4 lety +1

    Epic video! When I saw the length I was like phewww but I sat through the whole thing riveted! Learned so much too, won’t forget what a clock is now next time I’m climbing ;) Thanks Magnus and team for quality content 👌🏽

  • @fitbmx7744
    @fitbmx7744 Před 4 lety

    That city is going to love you guys for building this gym, it will make them a destination for any climbers that are going to be in the area, when otherwise they may not have even stopped in the town. If I am ever in Norway I will be stopping there for sure!

  • @risennation1239
    @risennation1239 Před 4 lety +2

    Thank for the Pro tips Magnus.. I'll be sure to use this as a guideline when I build my wall.

  • @ford_drivingbuilder4225

    my daughters (2 and 4 years old) love our little climbing wall in the yard. this summer im going to add on to it. this is cool to see how it plan out holds.

  • @gent5258
    @gent5258 Před 4 lety +2

    Excited to watch this next morning with a cup of coffee

  • @lindseycasper4287
    @lindseycasper4287 Před 3 lety

    This video has such fun energy. I love it!

  • @TheSantaJr
    @TheSantaJr Před 4 lety

    Route-setting content is a fantastic direction to take a few videos in! Would love to see some more setting competitions (with both inexperienced or experienced climbers), educational videos about different setting methods/patterns/techniques, or even just videos about the setting process for boulders in your affiliated gyms!

  • @sarahclarke1550
    @sarahclarke1550 Před 2 lety

    Figure 4 - one of the very few technical moves I already knew the name of! I've learnt loads more watching your videos!

  • @tahoemike5828
    @tahoemike5828 Před 2 lety

    For someone like me, who only discovered competition climbing as of the Olympics, this was a great video. The one part of the sport that has been totally opaque is the art and science of route setting. It was cool just to see how the pieces are bolted to the wall, and some of how the routes get set and tested.

  • @Tromboneparacorder
    @Tromboneparacorder Před 4 lety +1

    Loved the video. Definitely add more route setting tips and tricks!

  • @ohisee9173
    @ohisee9173 Před 4 lety +1

    I love this information, thanks Magnus!

  • @matthijsbeets424
    @matthijsbeets424 Před 4 lety +1

    Figure 4 is so interesting.
    I had no idea that such things existed, but then I had to do it in the gym and it was really fun!

  • @NytronX
    @NytronX Před 4 lety +2

    Get a 1/4 inch *impact driver* to fasten those bolts and screws, that is literally the best tool for those particular fasteners. I recommend a Milwaukee M12 Surge. This has all the torque you need, it's super small, and there is no wrist fatigue like with a normal drill driver, so you can fasten the bolts one handed.

  • @DJN0cturna1
    @DJN0cturna1 Před 4 lety +2

    It was nice to interact with you while watching Magnus keep up the hard work

  • @margueriterannou6566
    @margueriterannou6566 Před 4 lety

    Great content! It is the perfect balance of informative and entertaining !!!

  • @Gabriel80309
    @Gabriel80309 Před rokem

    It would be nice to see more videos like this 🙂 Thank you for this one!

  • @ohgu4361
    @ohgu4361 Před 4 lety +79

    I need a Rúngne shirt

    • @thenomadscrux2361
      @thenomadscrux2361 Před 4 lety

      i second that. i've been waiting for the next Rúngne product to release so i can buy it.

    • @jakepatterson3299
      @jakepatterson3299 Před 4 lety

      he could make them with Norrona. I'm pretty sure he is sponsored by them.

  • @jermu.
    @jermu. Před 4 lety

    Greetings from finland magnus!! Awesome video as always even tought i havent watched it fully yet :) keep up the great work!

  • @stephenvictor2622
    @stephenvictor2622 Před 4 lety +21

    Premieres in 2 hours, that’s 1am for me. Oh well I’ll watch it over coffee in the morning.

    • @magmidt
      @magmidt  Před 4 lety +14

      The vid is also over 40 mins long:-P

    • @tomdedaele1691
      @tomdedaele1691 Před 4 lety +1

      40 min!! 😮
      I think i’m going to need more coffee!
      Maybe some chalk on the side

    • @MrThidious
      @MrThidious Před 4 lety

      Not gonna lie, I'm pretty excited! In advance, thank you for the great content Magnus❤🤘

  • @Hollidaysgang
    @Hollidaysgang Před 4 lety

    Magnus, love the videos man! Keep em coming

  • @andojay
    @andojay Před 4 lety +1

    Great video. It was interesting to see how you all sets up your boulder problems

  • @3odaKruBrachu
    @3odaKruBrachu Před 4 lety +1

    It was really fun to watch!

  • @devmike
    @devmike Před 4 lety +1

    I had been calling the macros 'features' as they are like a feature/macro to put holds on almost like a part of the wall.
    Very cool video, and good challenging problems you set - that clockwork route was perfect.

  • @jerryshine3106
    @jerryshine3106 Před 4 lety +1

    Excellent video. Very entertaining, very informative. Great job.

  • @neilyeewei7811
    @neilyeewei7811 Před 4 lety +2

    Love this episode really much

  • @hotbwoy1117
    @hotbwoy1117 Před 4 lety +1

    Awesome video I loved the vid... I’ve been wanting to learn more about setting.

  • @granta.8775
    @granta.8775 Před 4 lety +1

    Super interesting video. Incredibly informative and interesting for new climbers like myself.

  • @py2706
    @py2706 Před 4 lety

    Always a treat after a long day of work to watch a 40min Magnus vid!! Thanks, and setting seems so fun. I may ask my gym if I can set a few. Apparently none of the setters like setting the low grades. I will!

  • @grantbrown6502
    @grantbrown6502 Před 4 lety

    Watching this during commercials of Ninja Warrior! Cant wait to see you and Anton's runs. Supporting you guys. Super excited.

  • @rikvdmark
    @rikvdmark Před 4 lety

    Thank you so much! I’m looking into route setting myself. Great stuff :)

  • @briangetty1693
    @briangetty1693 Před 4 lety +1

    Very cool video, thanks for the schooling! Waiting impatiently or the shirts......

  • @troybolton6803
    @troybolton6803 Před 4 lety +1

    Drinking an Americano while enjoying the latest video of Magnus in the morning. Loving it

  • @janamanoharan1203
    @janamanoharan1203 Před 4 lety +3

    When Earl demonstrates the clock, it actually made a clock ticking sound

  • @duncanfisher4346
    @duncanfisher4346 Před 4 lety +8

    I hope everyone has their coffee ready, as I do, to enjoy during the premiere!

  • @chriscrux4556
    @chriscrux4556 Před 4 lety

    That moonlight lighting is really great. It gives an awesome vibe to that place. It kind of reminds me of a lot of dreams I have so that might be why I love it.

    • @ascotter
      @ascotter Před rokem

      It reminds me of bouldering project at night

  • @Theninjaonthemountains
    @Theninjaonthemountains Před 4 lety +2

    Helpfull video as I just built a bouldering wall in my basement and needed ideas for setting up routes

  • @Grinch92
    @Grinch92 Před 4 lety +1

    a 40 min video !!! yes Magnus love your videos :) would love to come over to Norway to climb

  • @SirCatsal0t
    @SirCatsal0t Před 4 lety +3

    enjoying watching coffe while drinking this right now.