6 RULES for Board Climbing | Training for Climbing
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Wondering how to climb a board? Whether you’re a beginner climber or pro climber, here are some simple climbing tips and tricks to get more from your board climbing and climbing training.
Perfect if you’ve got a DIY climbing wall at home or for climbing the Moon Board or System Board at your local climbing gym. This is more than Bouldering for Beginners, these are climbing training skills anyone can use.
Follow Robbie Phillips, pro rock climber, and Culann O Brien, Filmmaker, on ridiculous climbing adventures. From van life and travelling to wild places like Yosemite, to indoor climbing training in the climbing gym + epic home training tips. All craic, no crap - it’s just pure unadulterated climbing!
@robbiephillips_
@imculann
Time Stamps
Intro 0:00
Rule 1 What do you want to achieve? 1:52
Rule 2 Start Small & Build Up 3:09
Rule 3 Mix it up 5:45
Rule 4 Don’t forget your feet 7:54
Rule 5 Don’t Cut Loose 10:25
Rule 6 Use Good Technique 13:44 - Sport
Time stamps are high tech - noice! Love the high quality content as always
Thanks dude! Glad you like it - more on the way!
Maybe a next video could be on, how to set problems...
Good idea!
Good advice.
Brilliant, succinct video Robbie.
Thanks man!
thanks for the info!
No problem! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Brilliant vid mate. Good for us that have been climbing on boards for a while and newbies alike
Thanks man ☺️
Unreal video man! As a new owner of a training wall I found this video extremely insightful. Always look forward to your videos popping up in my notification box. Honestly such a legend!
Thanks man! We’re trying to make these training videos right. I’m lucky to have a good director (Marie) - ive got the knowledge but directing it in the right way can be tricky. So really good to hear positive feedback like this - equally just as good to here the critical feedback too :)
Great video. Rare for someone to go into so much detail about all of their tips. Looking forward to putting them into use when I can get back on a board.
Thanks Pete! I hope you get back to the board soon!
really good tips
Just took delivery of the timber for my board. Rewatching this to keep it fresh! Like below, a video on setting problems (or even choosing where holds go?) would be great!
Haha you must have a link to our brains 🧠 because we were talking about this today and we’re planning to be doing it pretty soon 😄🤙
Friends always make us do weird stuff 🤔 Another banger Robbie, thanks for sharing 🤙
Thanks man!
I got my friend involved and he did get me doing some weird stuff i'm not used to , thanks .
Always good to get a different eye to change things up. Genuinely some of the best problems on my board are made by friends via the GetStokt app who haven’t even climbed on it haha 🤣
@@RobbiePhillips ooooooooooooooooooooh you meant on the board ;) . in all seriousness i know i play to my strengths when i make up my own stuff i love climbing other people problems for variety .
Haha 😂 Walked into that one 🤦♂️
Good stuff, Robbie. Thanks for all that. I must get back to using my board a bit more systematically. I have to admit to concentrating too much on the fingerboard so I am sure my technique is suffering, so I must write your rules down and get back to the board!
I will admit it is hard to balance both and still maintain quality sessions. I’m currently trying to balance the board, fingerboard and a new bridge crack I’ve found that I’m enjoying training on hahha In the end of the day I always put the board first though because I love climbing, but I find my Fingerstrength on the FB suffers
I found this genuinely really helpful, I'd love more content like this. Cheers Robbie!
Thanks Michael! Glad you liked it! More on the way!!!
Absolutely brilliant! Thanks Robbie! I want to know more about balancing intensity and volume.
I’ve had a board for about 7 years and it is where I get +90% of my climbing. I have a wide variety of holds and a good amount of jugs for warming up. For the past 3 or 4 years, I’ve been keeping track of my total number of moves per sesh and slowly over a period of months, push that number up. It has worked well for me but I always wonder if there is a better way. Thanks!
Hey Seth, thanks man, appreciate it :) Regarding your training - depends on what aspects of climbing performance you’re focussing on. No. of moves per session rarely equates to a better session or necessarily performance increase, but it can also be a great thing to focus on to keep track of volume. I have used no. Of moves as a means to track volume in a type of session if I’ve wanted to make sure I don’t overdo it such as on a strength session, or if I’ve wanted to (like you) up the volume over a number of sessions.
I wouldn’t however keep trying to increase volume continuously as eventually it won’t be reaping rewards
Thanks for your comment, really good ideas here and something we can look at in a future episode
As you said, I'm kind of a squishy climber who relies a lot on hooks and drop knees, and as talented as i migth be about this in comparisson to other climbers in the same level as mine, sometimes i have to remind myself of repeating some problems with straight forward strength (or with other climbers' beta) because i admit that's what i mostly end up encountering outdoors and there's also technique to learn from it.
Nice tips ;)
Such a nice video. Keep doing those training videos. I think that it's going to be interesting to see some more advanced techniques for climbing, for someone that can already do those heel/toe hooks, backsteps, flags etc. Also some thoughts on what we should do on the crag, what routes we should climb and how to build a solid pyramid. Some thoughts on how to send a route quickly, what you do when you're projecting and face some different scenarios like falling off the same move, do you do it again and again or something like this. I don't think someone have already talked about those things so it's going to be interesting. I think that all of the channels are really into doing climbing videos for beginner climbers and for some training tools like the hangboard and campus board. Probably focusing on some things for the intermediate and advanced climbers will be interesting for most of us as you won't repeat what other people said. Good luck and keep up the good work.
Those are some great ideas man! I’ll definitely put them in the little book of video ideas and look forward to getting out to the crag soon so we can film them - I think actually being at the crag would be the time for redpoint tactics video
@@RobbiePhillips yeah. I'm happy that you liked those. It's going to be awesome!
Gonna put these rules up at my wall!
YES! 🙌
I really liked the video, great tips for board climbing! I would like to see videos that would go further into climbing technique, what is good technique?
Thanks man! I’m really psyched to delve into this too! I feel technique can be a tricky area for climbers to hone - definitely keen to see if I can produce some quality videos to help folk.
Would be rad if you made another board video on how to set your wall in a way conducive to gains (hold orientation, variety, etc.). Also, trying to come up with ways to not just set to my strengths on the board - in quarantine it's not necessarily possible to invite friends over to set other problems for me. Any suggestions?
Hey Thomas, thanks for the comment. Setting a board isn’t too difficult. If you look at mine, I’ve packed it with holds so much so that there’s barely room for any more. There’s so much variation in there that I really have scope to train almost as many different types of moves as I want and it’s not even a big board. Just make sure you have all the grip types and keep angles varied, and if you want to change it, just get the Allen key out and change it. Eventually you’ll find your board settles and you’ll keep it that way for a year or longer.
As for setting the board, I can’t recommend the GetStokt app high enough. It’s such a great tool to have for any board owner. Any one can set on the board remotely (if you download the app and look at my board you’ll see how many people have set on it, and none of them have ever seen the board let alone climbed on it).
If that isn’t possible, take a picture of the board on your phone and sent it to friends and Just get them to circle holds and footholds. Sometimes the problems are weird as hell, but they’re fun to try!
I got psyched on boards a few months before lockdown. I actually dream about getting back on my favourite boards - now psyched to try feet follow hands. There's something satisfyingly neanderthal about climbing boards - I was going to say primal, but the sweaty bearded PT selling me a surefire way to get his Hollywood bod can take it.
So true! I love board training, but we can’t forget that it’s just a tool for the real thing 😜
Nice video! It would be cool to see your thought process in how you select and set holds for a board. I’m assuming that’s a spray wall so most of the problems are set after the holds are on the wall; but do you have a logic to how you set it up?
Well definitely do a video on this at some point down the line - I’ve had quite a few requests already. But for now... there was 2 x problems set from the beginning (an olive on slopey pinches and amazing easy circuits). I did this mainly to make sure that there was always jugs where I wanted them and the olive I just liked the bold set 😜 Aside from that, I made sure to fill most of the board up with a variety of hold types before I started to fill all the little gaps in.
Can you do a video on topping out techniques. I mainly climb indoors but when I get on real boulders often struggle to top out if there are no good holds there
That’s a good one! I can certainly look into it :)
amazing! I actually made a board myself and filmed it!
Nice one dude! Would love to check it out
@@RobbiePhillips omg, thank you! It's on my own channel if you wanna give it a go 😊
I’ll check it out now 🙂
Huh, I wonder if CZcams's timestamps idea was motivated by the hub...
What’s the Hub? It’s defo a great idea for the tutorial style vids.
😂 Hahaha
Cool Video Robbie!
How high is your Climbing board?
I am thinking to make one but i am Not sure if my room is big enough.
Thank you✊🏻💪🏻
Thanks man! My board is pretty short - I’m 6ft and I’d say it’s maybe 7ft tall in total? It’s 45 degrees overhung so it has a bit more length from the steepness
Thank you man!
2 questions here, one regarding the board the other is "unconventional" climbing training.
First, I've been thinking of construction a board but from the looks of your board I'm way over engineering it. I had planned 2x6 and 1" plywood, but I see you've got 2x4 for the frame. What are your recommendations on material? As everyone is, I'm on a budget and don't want to spend too much on my own design.
Second, my work load doesn't allow for much gym time if any, I work construction and I'm always trying to hold the materials with the tips of my fingers as a sort of "finger strength training", high-stepping with moderately heavy materials to increase leg strength, rotating materials with my core to increase core strength. Do you think these things are effective? I climb almost every weekend, I started a year and a half ago, and I've definitely noticed a difference but I'm not sure of the efficacy or possible dangers of doing these "workouts". I want to improve the safest and fastest way possible so that I don't get I injured and be put out of work/unable to climb. Gotta keep the money flowing so I can keep racking up gear and get a reliable vehicle for extended road trips.
As you might guess I'm really diving head first into this, somewhat unwisely, but isn't that the spirit of climbing? I think the real kicker here is I have no climbing friends, nor have I ever met a serious climber to my knowledge. I guess I'll just lay it down and say I'm learning from CZcams, MP, and books. I'm sharp as a tack and the systems climbers use are well within my intellectual capabilities however, in essence, this has been an entirely stupidly dangerous endeavor but I'm just too stoked to wait till I have a reliable vehicle to travel the 2+hours to the closest crag (Texas sucks sometimes) in the hopes of finding some climbers who would let me hang with them. Can't wait till Medicine Wall is open in San Antonio. I need climbing friends.
Hey Isaac, alrighty then :D First of all, love your psyche!!! That's really the no.1 thing you need to get better at climbing.
Re the wall - I am not particularly handy. I just went on CZcams and looked up videos of people who built walls previously. There was one that was particularly good - this guy: czcams.com/video/nt82RQEBmPs/video.html
I used 3/4" ply and a load of timber that I think was mostly 2x4 but possibly a few 2x6 for the lower frame.
Re your training @ work - I have an old friend who was on the GB Bouldering Team and he is also in construction. He also used to do such exercises whilst at work. My take on it is this: I doubt you would achieve the really high loads required to gain optimal maximal strength for climbing through doing these exercises, but saying that, I think they would probably condition your body for the stressed of climbing pretty well. This is completely un-scientific advice, it's more of a hunch based on experience, as I know plenty of Dry Stone Wallers who are also amazing climbers, and they have hands like shovels and are pretty tough guys. But as I said, I don't think you would achieve maximal loads and therefore what I would suggest is opting for more quality training sessions away from work if possible (these don't have to be long - 30 min on a fingerboard is perfect) and just making sure you get good recovery in your forearms - check out our fingerboard video from 2 weeks ago, it's got some good advice there. If thats not possible, then I think what you're doing is OK so long as it's not too intense for too long as you could pick up injuries from overuse.
I do feel for ya if you're lacking partners. Truth is, a lot of the folk back home don't run on the same schedule as me either so I have spent many years training alone haha I usually partner up with a friend for a big trip and then get back to training alone for a time. Not as much these days, but between the ages of 18 and 28 I'd say most of my training was on my own.
feel free to ping me any messages you have - I'm also on Instagram at @robbiephillips_ and you can DM me there :)
I just built my own wall - also used 3/4 inch ply and 2×4s. I think the two main reasons why is because cost (obviously) and weight. If you're using say 3 sheets on 1inch ply and 2×6 studs to support it, that will be unimaginably heavy on the support legs, and especially the top beam. So unless you have the budget to build some real terminator wall, I'd say it's probably safer to go for the smaller and lighter options. Obviously though, if it's within budget, the studs along the floor can be as heavy as you like, and that's probably where I'd spend the extra cash. AND on high quality ply. That's where I'd never recommend going cheap.
And as someoe who works construction, I'm sure you know all this far better than me, but not over-building it is for sure something to keep in mind. I mean as I look back on what I've done, for a 12×8 feet wall at 50° I definitely count my lucky starts I didn't buy more wood (than I think like 10 2'×4'×16", and I had plenty of scraps for my mom's allotment fence!) which had been my plan from the start.
Poor Louis, trying so hard to get out of that reputation
I was only joking 🙃 Louis is a legend!!!
Couldn't agree more on the cut loose... I'm so guilty of that
Aren’t we all :)
Solid vid, thanks for that. Question: when you say 48h rest, do you mean 2 full days of rest or 1 full day? i.e. 2 nights of sleep or 3.
As in, 2 full days of rest. 48 hours since your last session. Realistically you want to be playing in the 48-72 hours recovery period
@@RobbiePhillips Alright cheers. Heard 48h thrown around, but sometimes the wording is confusing. i.e. if you trained monday eve, took tues off, then weds eve would technically have been 48h since the last training sesh. But, that would only really be 1 full day of rest. Get what I mean?
So I would say time it from the end of the session to when you start the next session. So Mon 9am-11am strength session would be ideally 48 hours Wed 11am for next strength session. Obviously that’s not always possible, and you might train other things on the Monday later in the day, so perhaps an evening Wednesday session would be around about 48 hours or you could have a Thursday Morning session. I know personally that since hitting 29 last year my recovery has tanked. I need longer time between training sessions to get full body recovery. If I go too long on 36-48 hour rest intervals I start gong down hill. You really need to incorporate more 48-72 hour long rest intervals.
Robbie Phillips nice one, cheers. Appreciate that was a bit of a long-winded one :)
Great video! What are the dimensions of your board?
It’s just 2 and a quarter pieces of standard ply :)
How you keep track of the problems you've set? I don't see any real markings for what could be a problem, just hundreds of individual holds.
I use an app. Either GetStokd or FlashApp on AppStore
Great advice
Thanks man!