10 Climbing Workouts Taught by Paul Robinson - INTENSE!
Vložit
- čas přidán 19. 06. 2024
- I had an amazing opportunity to train with a professional rock climber, @paulrobinson87! The workout Paul showed me was a lot more advanced than the hangboard workout I did by myself for the 30-day challenge a few months ago. Check out the video!
Check out Paul Robinson and follow him!
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Ro...)
/ @paulrobinson87
/ paulrobinson87
My Climbing/Workout Gear: amzn.to/3J6fNdD
Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2tCoPet
Climbing Tape: amzn.to/339wGMv
Hangboard: bit.ly/frictitioushangboard (Use coupon code GEEKCLIMBER for free shipping)
Doorway Screw Free Hangboard Mount: bit.ly/frictitiousdoorwayhang... (Use coupon code GEEKCLIMBER for free shipping)
Portable Hangboard: bit.ly/frictitiousportaboard (Use coupon code GEEKCLIMBER for free shipping)
Pinch Block: bit.ly/frictitiousthepinch (Use coupon code GEEKCLIMBER for free shipping)
Wrist Roller: bit.ly/redgeroller
Foam Roller: amzn.to/2yOeSMU
Weight Belt: amzn.to/3OR9zi8
Massage gun: bit.ly/relxbit (Use coupon code GEEKCLIMBER for 15% off)
Lacrosse Balls amzn.to/2D87wmn
Doorway pull up bar: amzn.to/2HoVtoy
Freestanding pull up bar: amzn.to/2V5PoUc
Resistance band: bit.ly/hybridcalibands (Use coupon code GEEK10 for 10% off)
Gymnastic rings: bit.ly/hybridcaligymrings (Use coupon code GEEK10 for 10% off)
My Apparel: amzn.to/3SEA50U
Flip Flops: amzn.to/2AT7YE2
Shorts: amzn.to/3Zt3A89
My Filming Gear: amzn.to/3ZlFR9J
Main Camera: amzn.to/3KJz0Tp
Budget Main Camera: amzn.to/35bXWfj
Action Camera: amzn.to/2oXlBPZ
Tripod: amzn.to/2LUnyW6
Wireless Microphone: amzn.to/3XYZBit
Wired Microphone: amzn.to/35eZaGz
Video Editing Software: amzn.to/2nvt8VK
Memory Card for Main Camera: amzn.to/2nrHWol
Memory Card for Action Camera: amzn.to/2IwED6p
Memory Card to USB Adapter: amzn.to/2OpkBPc
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. This helps support the channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for your support!
Connect with me:
Official website: geekclimber.com/
Instagram: / geekclimb
Music credit goes to FreeDrumTracks - Zábava
You did great! Excited to see how you progress with these workouts for the next time I come out to California! 💪💪💪
Thank you for your advices! Looking forward to try them out ;)
I will definitely keep working on it! Look forward to the next time you visit California!
Paul, I've always read to never campus after climbing... only when fully fresh (after warming up). Any thoughts?
Thank you for doing this! You didn't help just him, but us as well! I will definitely use some of these things on my climbing workout.
Paul, great training suggestions! Thanks!
1 or 2 times per week:
1. Pull ups 0:52
2. One harm hangs 1:46
3. Crimp hangs 2:37
4. Max campus reach 3:07
5. Campus board: up 1, 2, 3, 4 3:47
6. Campus board: skip one, pull through 4:47
7. Campus board: crossing ladder 5:57
8. Ab roller 6:40
9. Sit ups 6:40
10. Push ups 6:40
Do the rotation 3 times, with 5 minutes rests in between
Great summary 👍
Life saver
Sorry to ask, but what does it mean by rotation? Do all 10 three times in one sitting? :O
Lumi Amerda the real MVP for writing it down for us
Alex Teoli I don’t know but it’s definitely not that
good on Paul Robinson to not only explain the exercises but to do so with passion and enthusiasm, thanks -sam
Paul is super knowledgeable and passionate about climbing!
Paul is such a decent guy. Great vid!
Paul is one of the most incredible individuals that I've ever met!
Oh man! #7 "Crossing Ladders" being able to not only work on finger strength but actual body positioning as well. So good!
I actually tried it off camera and the way it activates my muscles is amazing!
"I usually do 10 sets of 10 pull ups. What about you do 3?"
I mean, paul climbs v16s, i think he's qualified to assume your power level lol
Thanks for sharing! These are great workout ideas I'm sure to implement. I'm super glad to see someone like Paul helping out non-professional but passionate climber!
You're welcome! Paul is the most down to earth professionals that I've ever met. It was a truly amazing experience!
This is a great collaboration!! Two of the most chill climbers training together! Thanks for the video and this is definitely one I'll come back to for training info.
You’re welcome and glad you like the video!
actually one teaching the other is not really training together
one youtube and one real climber =)
Awesome and informative video as usual! Keep up the great work on your channel!
Glad you like the video! Definitely more awesome videos to come.
Another excellent video with lots of great ideas to spice up a training session. Thanks again for your hard work!
You are welcome! Happy training!
Thanks for the training video! The content is well explained, and I keep referring back to it to increase my strength training.
Glad you find the video helpful for your strength training!
Thank you. Great content!
You are welcome! 👍
Very helpful. Thank you!
That’s was freakin awesome! Thanks for the vid!
outstanding boys! Thanks for the tips!
You’re welcome and glad you like them!
These are some great workouts. Thanks for sharing!
You are welcome and glad you like them!
this is terrific, thank you for sharing this!!
You’re welcome! 👍👍
Really enjoying these videos. Paul seems like a really nice guy.
Glad you enjoy the videos! Paul is one of the most down to earth professionals that I've ever met!
Great video! Thanks for sharing the workout.
Glad you like the video!
EXACTLY what I am looking for right now. Thanks.
You’re welcome! I am interested to know how it works for you if you implement it!
What a great teacher! Encouraging, realistic, non-condenscending
Paul is phenomenal. The most amazing professional that I’ve ever worked with!
This is a great video, look forward to trying these out myself.
Glad you like it! Let me know how it works for you. I am interested to know!
this is awesome thank you for this !!!!
You’re welcome and glad you like it!
Paul seems like they'd be a great trainer. Thanks for helping to share some of their expertise with us!
Awesome video with great info. So cool you got to climb and train with a pro. Hope it moves you to higher grades with all the info you got.
I am definitely going hard at it now. Might take a while because of my age and lack of talent but I think eventually I will be able to climb a few grades higher.
Great videos. A little focused training goes a long way, I’m sure you’ll be pushing past your plateau and setting new personal bests in no time! Stay psyched! Cheers.
I am actually really close to breaking the plateau! Hopefully that will happen soon and I will make a video about it when it happens!
great attitude, to training and climbing. keep up the good work
Currently trying really hard to climb a grade higher!
Really good video. Thanks for the tips
Glad you find them helpful!
Lovely, so helpful!
Glad you find it helpful!
Thank you very much for sharing this indeed, and to Paul Robinson for being OK with that!
You’re welcome! Paul is the most awesome professional that I’ve ever worked with!
Love your videos!
Glad you like my videos!
Awesome, I learned some new training ideas and learned what a solid dude Robinson is
Glad you learned something from the video! And yes, Paul is the most down-to-earth professional that I’ve ever met!
Sweet workouts dudes, definitely adding to liked and watch later
Paul’s workouts are amazing! Happy training!
awesome video!!!!
Glad you like it!
Great Video. Very motivating, keep it up. :)
Glad you like it! More awesome videos to come!
Awesome video. I loved this. It really helps me
Glad you find this video helpful!
I love how Paul seemed to genuinely be happy to help
You are right Paul was super friendly!
great vid!
Glad you like it!
thank you this really helps
You’re welcome!
Awesome climbing shoes! Paul seems like a good climber.
Haha, Paul is a professional climber. Paul’s shoes were so tight that he had to take them off instantly when he was not climbing.
Amazing!!!
👍👍👍
Just injured my right leg and I´m happy to see this upperbody intensive workouts.
Thanks a lot
You are welcome and hope you recover soon!
Thanks, it´s already feeling better after 2 days. Maybe it wasn´t that big of a deal after all ;)
paul's a stand up guy.
best of luck in your climbing journey :)
Paul is definitely one of the most down to earth professionals that I have ever met!
Yeah dude.. follow that training plan and you’ll become a beast!! Can’t wait for it 👌
I've been following the training plan for over a month now! Can't wait till the day that I can climb a grade higher.
So cool 👍
Awesome guy
I agree!
training power after hard boulder session is just insane!
Wow dude these excercises are great.
Totally agree with you! Paul is amazing!
Perfect!
Glad you like it!
Thank you!
You’re welcome!
awesome workout
Glad you like it!
This looks like alot of fun, as a kid I always loved climbing trees
You should definitely consider visiting a rock climbing gym some time!
Well done man
Paul's exercise is so good, man!
Im too rookie for this, but I will get there. Really great and cool tips!!
Yes you will get there eventually!
Are you there yet?
@@Jacob0481 Im 30 kilos heavier!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@Jacob0481 Rip 😂😂😂
Good stuff. Please do a video on Fingerstrenth to prevent jammed fingers for other sports! Thanks!
I don't know too much about other sports so it will be a bit hard for me to make this video. Still, thanks for your feedback!.
Great video, I'll do this workout!
Let me know how it goes! I am interested to know.
@@GeekClimber I tried it two days ago. I've to admit that it was pretty hard for me, maybe because I've just restarted boulder after two months of sport climbing without pan gullich and co.
However, good workout, I'll continue to do it.
Really intelligent workout.
Will definitely try it out.
Keep up the good content!
Let me know how it works for you! Definitely more awesome videos to come!
Awesome video! Can you make a list of the workouts described and breakdown of the reps and sets?!
1. Pull ups 3 reps
2. One arm hang 1 rep
3. Crimp hangs 5 reps
4. Max campus reach 1 rep
5. Campus board: up 1, up 2, up 3, up 4 1 rep
6. Campus board: skip one, pull through 1 rep
7. Campus board: crossing ladder 1 rep
8. Ab roller (not sure how many reps)
9. Sit ups (not sure how many reps)
10. Push ups (not sure how many reps)
3 sets in total.
Awesome thanks for replaying with this break down!
Great video. I take the Chris Sharma approach: no training, just climbing. I only climb for fun anyway.
That’s exactly what I did for the past 10 years, but if you want to improve faster you will need to train.
Geek Climber not true. As long as you limit boulder you can hit double digits no training
01:18 Paul impressed with your strength! You have a sick workout area at your gym..jealous.
This gym is actually not open to the public. It's mainly used by the youth climbing team.
@@GeekClimber oh haha, cograts on makinh it to the youth team Geek Climber. 🙄
Nice, really looking forward to trying some of these. A question though: the entire workout is supposed to be 5 of these in 1 rotation, and in total do the rotation 3 times. How many reps of each exercise do you do? Do you only do reps on the crimp hanging and pullups?
Yes, you are right. Multiple reps for the crimp hanging and pullups. One rep for campus board/rung workouts and one arm hangs. I am sure multiple reps for ab rollers, sit ups and push ups too, but Paul didn't go into details about these ones.
How many set do you do at each rotations?
Wtf, I've never been so excited to train... Thanks Paul and Geek Climber!!
You're welcome and happy training!
This guy is a goldmine
good job
👍👍👍
Nice. I have been watching your rock climbing videos for a week now and they are so good, it makes me want to try to do rock climbing. I am 14 and weigh 44-48kg But I can barely do a push-up or a pull-up, may I get some tips on how I can get started or increase strength? Thanks
My suggestion is just go to the gym and climb! You will build strength and have fun at the same time. Eventually you will be able to do a pull-up or a push-up. The workouts shown in the video are a little more advanced and are for climbers who hit a plateau.
Geek Climber Cool! Thanks for the advise and I love your videos. The enthusiasm is so contagious and is one of the reasons I want to try rock climbing. I hope I can see you one day in person!
Glad you like my videos! Hopefully someday when we eventually meet, you will be climbing V5s or even higher!
Try negative pull/push ups.
Great video! I watched it a couple times already.
I'm a V5-V6 climber and started trying a couple of these workouts. I haven't done a lot of hangboard training but will be incorporating them regularly into my routine. Through lifestyle changes I lost 25 pounds last year and am in a pretty decent body shape for climbing right now with a 21.3 bmi. I'm hoping I can get solidly into the V6s and start tackling the V7s (and more 5.11s) soon.
What grade are you climbing right now? Have you noticed any recent climbing improvements since you started this workout?
Glad you find the video helpful! I climb V5s mostly and I have been able to climb a few V6s recently, which I think is because of this workout. Once I feel I can climb V6s solidly, I will upload an updated video.
Paul seems like a great guy
He is the most down to earth professional that I've ever met!
thank you brother :D
You’re welcome man!
I want this guy to tell me I'm doing a good job
Paul is definitely an amazing teacher. He is super encouraging!
your love language is communication aparantly. some ppl live off of words
Hey, sorry for bothering...Are you doing these one arm and two arm hangs after climbing session or on non climbing day? I'm not sure is it too intense for after climbing. Tenx. Great video btw 💪🏼
10/10, would session with you guys
Let me know if you ever have a chance to visit San Diego!
Double dyno is fine as long as u know what ur doing. I wouldn't campus after a session. Maybe mid session or after a big warm up
I think it’s a good idea to stay away from double dyno for us intermediate climbers!
fcuk!
I gym 4-5 times a week, push day / pull day / leg day / hiit day, BUT I tried to hang on a Peg Wall with 90 degree arm bend today, I can't let one hand loose! Don't even think pulling out one stick and placing it into another holes!
I'm sooo weak!
Every time I tried something new, I see my weakness... It's great to know as well....
I have to reorganize my gym plan
and the wall at 3:51 , I can't hold as 90 degree arm bend for single second! how can you both do that!!!!!!?????
Pulling on the campus board certainly requires a good amount of finger strength. Another thing that helps is make sure your center of gravity is directly below your fingers when you go up.
im an absolute newbie. the campus board looks hard and geeky. im not getting a grip at the bigger bars for upgrading to the next grip
If you are a newbie, it’s best not to train on the campus board, but it’s cool to touch it and see how it feels like.
I like your Adidas shoes.
The massaging shoe sole is amazing!
1 question. You have to pick 5 of those 10 exerciseseach time you train like this? Or you can do all of those 10 in a row?
I recently started to climb and especially with lead my grips tire really fast. I wanted to use your method of hanging with one arm to improve this weakness. I was really shocked that I can only hang on one arm for about 1-2 seconds on the bar.
I am built quite strong and I was also known for a strong grip in wrestling so this was surprising to me (I weigh in about 86kg which is about 185 I reckon). Can someone from the community get me started on how to develop grip strenght that will support hanging on one arm? It will be appreciated greatly! good speed!
I think having a mobilized and strong shoulder plays a big part in one arm hangs. I suggest working on external rotations for your rotator cuffs, lateral raises for your lateral delts. Also while you are hanging with one arm make sure your shoulders are engaged instead of hanging loosely. Initially you can hang on pull up bars instead of the holds on the hangboard too. Hope this helps.
@@GeekClimber Thank you for your advice! I will implement it in my training regime!
When it is appropriate to start this kind of training? I’ve been climbing about 7 months or so now can can consistently send V3 and some V4. Am I ready for something like this?
It might be a little too soon because strengthening your finger tendons takes time. If you really want to go for it, I suggest hanging on rungs that are not thinner than 1 inch.
You’re ready
Where is this gym? Its awesome! (and so is paul!)
This is definitely the best gym in San Diego!
@@GeekClimber Just saw this. Chad. This is Mesa Rim's Academy. Located in San Diego. Thanks for the props Geek Climber. I'll have to say hi next time I see you at the MV location.
I'm adding these to my routine at the gym tonight! Also, does anyone else think that Paul looks a little like Michael Keaton?
Let me know how it works for you! I am interested to know. I don't really think Paul looks like Michael Keaton haha.
i like this
👍👍👍
There was something I didn’t understood.
Because I can’t read English well.
How many times to hang ups?
It's 5 seconds hang, 5 seconds rest, and then repeat for 5 times.
how long into climbing does it take to do these exercises? is 6 months of bouldering indoors too soon for this?
It’s definitely too soon for crimp hangs and campus board workouts. I think you need to climb for at least two years first.
Don't do it yet, you might hurt your tendons
I tend to prefer training before climbing (but after a good warmup) than climbing-first. Whichever your do first is the one you will get the most out of. If I take some time and energy out of climbing to train, I want to maximize the gains I get from it. Otherwise I could just climb harder/longer instead. Of course you still gain if you train after and perhaps training doesn't have to be seen as taking away from climbing time...
I would emphasis more the "don't get injured" aspect of this training. Campusing is hard on the tendons - you don't have to be doing double dynos, however, to tear a pulley. Doing this type of training too many times a week for a number of weeks could make you more at risk of getting injured on a climb for example, if you accumulate fatigue.
I agree about the double-dyno to an extent. It seems you really have to do it right and not over-do it in order not to get injured. However even though the movement is not something you'd typically do in a route, the fact that you need to support all your weight is probably pretty good to develop power. If you do reach with one arm, you need less power even for long reaches because the lock-off arm substracts some of the weight. That power would likely transfer to moves with just one arm (presumably they both got stronger!), like long reaches, deadpoints etc. I haven't tried it that said, I mostly focus on hangs.
I really like the cross-over idea on the campus rungs. I can really see the benefit of training your muscles to execute that type of movement. It's a move we don't do that often and pay less attention to, but sometimes it's part of the crux of a route. Since we don't do it often and the muscles aren't used to perform those moves, it probably feels harder than it really is. So for the execution alone it seems like a good idea and of course you would get stronger as well.
Good climbing video guys - it's nice to see Ondra do 1-5-9 on the rungs, but it's also nice to see a more "realistic" training plan for us mere mortals...
from what i've researched and experienced, train climbing first (mostly hard bouldering), stop once your power drops (can be hard to gauge but for me it's when i can't climb the hardest boulder problems that i've got dialed in), then do the stuff Paul covers in this video. you generally get more benefit/gains from training climbing first.
Adam Ondra begs to differ (watch at 1:55): czcams.com/video/0AXcQM4TuE8/video.html
I'm not saying it's completely wrong. I'm just saying you're not maximizing your training if you climb hard first.
If you're starting to see your power drops, that means:
- You will not be able to sustain charges as big as you could if you were warmed up but fresh.
- Hanging on a given edge while tired with 15 lbs is not equivalent to hanging 30lbs extra charge while fresh. Yes you feel like to you are giving just as much efforts (it feels just as hard) but you don't get the same muscle development because you're not using all of your muscle.
Will you still benefit from the training? Sure. Will it be as effective as it could be? No. And my point is: if I'm going to take/energy for training, that means I won't have that energy available for climbing. Therefore might as well make sure that my training takes as little time/energy as possible and gives me the biggest bang for my bucks.
Plus, as Ondra mentions, greater risk of injury doing it that way.
Glad you like the video man. I agree whatever you do first you will get the most out of it. Based on my experience, it's a better idea to climb first than train first, and it's because training is actually in a more controlled condition than climbing. When your arm strength are dying down you are in a higher risk for injuries, therefore you want to be in a more controlled condition (training) to minimize it from happening. Another idea could be find a day and just do training and don't do any climbing to get the most out of training.
Actually that's a good point you bring there.
In fact, I don't think it's a great idea to both climb hard AND train in the same session period. This is kind of the point you are touching on at the end. I guess a more precise way to frame my take on this issue is that you can't do well 2 things at once. It's possible to climb hard and get a good session out of it, or to train hard and get physical gains out of it.
Whichever your do first, the risk of injury in a sense is a bit of a moot point: if you train hard after climbing (so while tired), you risk injuries. If you climb hard while tired your also risk injuries. I guess the real conclusion to be had here is more than exercising at your limit while too tired is just a bad idea and prone to injuries.
It is true that climbing hard is less controlled than training. When I climb after training, I never work on project and usually do climbs I can link like 95% of the time. In my experience, with good technic it is possible to do those climbs in a controlled fashion. If I have trained before, I focus on execution and technic rather than climbing hard stuff (so I'll do say the same boulder problem 3-4 times in a row, with good rest between, at a level I am fairly confident I can onsight all 3 or 4 attempts).
However, I don't think we should over-estimate how controlled training is. When doing strength training, we're typically at 90-95% capacities for a few reps only. Sometimes the will to perform repetitions as planned, or to do better in our training than last week, lead us to push a bit harder than we should. I've certainly been guilty of that in the past.
I guess too a an important point about this training/climbing first issue is about where your are in your climbing. Beginner climber (without first 2-3 years of climbing unless you've started pretty much doing that full time) get more benefits from just climbing physically than experienced climbers. They also are more likely to get technical gains from climbing which you don't really get as much training.
The only thing I'd add to this is that tendons/ligaments take a long time to toughen up compared to muscles/skin, push it all you like, your joints will start to feel like they're filled with glass. Consider a week or two off every now and then, eat well, let them get a proper rest to build. Then wind it up back up. Repeated for a year or so after you start, you'll feel it improve.
I was doing this for my first 3 years. It takes as long as it takes.
Interesting idea about taking a week or two off every now and then. Recently I have felt that my fingers seem to be on the verge of getting injured and I am researching on different finger stretches/exercises. Maybe more rest like you said is what I need.
Who tf would dislike this haha
No idea man. The knowledge Paul dropped is so rich.
"Okay?"
4:03 okay? ...umm, nope. great vid
Haha, glad you like the video!
When Paul said “when you come in after a day of climbing ... choose five, whichever five” what is he referring to?
Great content by the way! Thanks Mate!
You’re welcome! He was referring to the 10 exercises he showed me. Randomly pick 5 to do after a session of climbing. However, I usually pick the way that there’re 3 finger/arm workouts and 2 core workouts.
@@GeekClimber How does that work with #3 crimp hangs? Do you still do 5 sets or only one set per rotation?
@VDB 5 sets per rotation, so 5 on 5 off, 5 on 5 off, 5 on 5 off, 5 on 5 off, and then the last 5 on per rotation.
@@GeekClimber cheers!
So with these workouts, should these been completed on a non climbing day or should you do these immediately after your session?
Why was your gym so empty? Mine is always packed whenever I go O.o
Because it’s a dedicated training facility. That was actually my first time in there too. I usually go to the public ones.
Geek Climber That must have been an cool experience! Those perks of youtube stardom haha
Progress to 1 arm pullups you'll become a beast
Hopefully I will be able to do a one arm pull up sometime in my lifespan.
@@GeekClimber It's honestly really easy. I could do 15 pullups 2 months ago but no 1 arms. I just progressed by doing bigger and bigger sets of negatives on each arm until I could do 3. Then I just progressed from there and now 2 months later I can do 8 on each arm.
I even cannot do a normal pull up
I highly recommend you to give rock climbing a try! If you climb consistently for 6 months I guarantee you will develop enough strength to do a pull up.
Geek Climber thanks
😝
What gym do you climb at
I climb at Mesa Rim.
What r those shoes ma man
It's La Sportiva Miuras.
How do I like this twice?!
👍👍👍
Geek climber what cna you sport climb and top rope
I can top rop 5.11b and probably sport climb 5.10c (not exactly sure because I haven’t done it for a long time).
Ok cool I can top rope like easy 5.11s
Nice! 👍
Geek Climber I think you should make a video about dynos and power moves. Thanks
I am not an expert on dynos and power moves but I will try my best to find someone qualified to talk about it.
Good advisements.
Where’s the advertisements? You mean for Paul’s channel?
@@GeekClimber good advice, fucking keyboard corrector.
#4 3:14 max reach... Paul punches a plane flying overhead
Really interesting vid, cool to get some insights in Pauls training philosophy.
But i gotta say that i would disagree with some of his points, especially cause this is meant to be a beginners workout.
1: I would never use hangboard edges for a pull up set as a beginner, just jugs. This is a "after climbing workout", which means youve prhb used (and trained!) your fingers during the session, so pulling up on full-crimpable egdes without 100% fingerstrength will only train your power endurance, finger strength hyper compensation is not going to happen, not significant. Besides of that pulling on full-crimpable egdes seems like a unnecessarily risk factor for a beginner. So only using different jugs (some slopers are cool too) is a way better way in terms of injury prevention and you´ll still get the same training effect in your pulling muscles.
2: Using smaller rungs (same as in the 1st point: smaller= full crimpable holds, which means: if you for example doing skip one, pull trough, youre intention, particularly in later sets, will be to get the movement done. As a beginner you most likely will focus on this, not your gripping technique, on smaller holds this will tempt you to crimp harder than you should do it.) So in my opinion, using small campus rungs after a full session is not a good idea. Advanced climbers can do it but i wouldnt recommend it either. i would say: Do after-session campusboard movements on juglike holds or big slopy rungs, if your campusboard dont have them, dont do campusboard after session as a beginner. Campusboard always means high risk in injury terms, high reward in training terms. And high risk isnt good for beginners.
Of course, Paul is the pro. He prhb warms up in my projects. I know that. But i had finger problems in the past because i overpaced. I recommend to low the risk, its worth it. If you still want to go all in after a session, body reflexion is key. If something hurt or felt bad, dont continue, or do a easier exercise.
I'm pretty sure Paul recommended always using the largest rungs for campusing at one point in this video, and that, as advanced as he is, he always prefers to use the largest rungs.
watch from 1:30, "it doesnt rly matters, do your first set on these jugs your 2 on this.... your next on these crimps (1:41, he is showing too bad crimps in my opinion)." but again: its my opinion/advice. no offense, it worked out for him.
and yes he recommended large rungs, but the rungs in the vid are still not jugs/slopy rungs.
Thanks for articulating your thoughts. This workout is designed for intermediate climbers who climb V5s like me, not for beginners, unless you classify V5 climbers as beginners. Then that’s another story. I agree doing pull ups on small crimps is a little bit too intense, but Paul made me do it on the jugs so I would stick to that for a while. As for the campus rungs, the largest rung is actually big enough for me to comfortably grip with open hands. Also, the workouts Paul showed me are all pretty short so they are actually pretty manageable for my level. I do agree with you that all of us should have a good understanding of our own body and know when to stop so we won’t injure ourselves.
i do not consider you as a beginner, because youve climbed for quite a while. So yeah, you know what open handed means and how to prevend injuries while gripping. but some other v5 climbers dont climb as long as you (i think a gifted and talented guy can peak to v5 in 8-12 months) i consider them as beginners. Just because they are not experienced enough to know when to grip how. this is not a grade thing, its a time thing, you know? These climbers may think, its a great idea to use every hold, even the holds they shouldnt use yet. Iam not afraid for you, but for these guys.
Watching this makes me feel really weak
This workout is indeed intense!
Awesome one question when he says to rest 5mins between each rotation I'm guessing he means after u done the 5 different exercises rest do the 5 again rest 5 again and finish? Assuming it's no 5mins after each exercises
You are right. Do 5 exercises in a row and then rest for 5 minutes. Rinse and repeat.