Great job Rachel. Please get on the tractor to start it. I have seen tractors slip in to gear when a person starts it standing in front of the rear tire. I have also seen folks not get the tractor fully into neutral when they thought it was. We want to see you doing videos for years to come.
I had that accidental arcing of the air cleaner on the starter solenoid Rachel talked about at 6:59. The tractor was in first gear and I was sitting exactly where she was. I went and bought a battery quick disconnect right after that.
Anytime you run across a canister filter somebody has probably created a spin on filter conversion. Then you have the latest machines going back to external canisters on the hydraulic side. But that is a different ball game. A lot more flow, and they wanted a lot of filter surface area, so back to canisters we go! LOL.
We just moved to Goodrich, MI, and have a small farm off Dutch Road. We stopped by the Steiner store in Lennon, Mi, and boy were we disappointed in the rudeness of its sales staff. My husband took a picture of me sitting in the store and the sales clerk said there's no taking photos inside the store! He further went on to say they signed legal documentation to prevent photos from being taken. We were berated and made to feel shame... (We won't be going back there again, and they should have a sign that says no cameras allowed!). Shame on Steiner ....
I inherited 2 tractors (Ford 800, & Massey Ferguson 240) & unfortunately my dad or grandpa never taught me how to do anything (for all you dads who think you're doing your daughters (or sons) a favor by doing stuff for them, I'm proof you're not!!). A lot of videos have issues like, you can't see what they're talking about; so fast you can't follow; to slow that you're pulling your hair out. Yours are always clear, concise, and easy to follow along with. You guys are such a blessing for folks like me, keep up the great work & thanks so very much!
THANK YOU!!! I have been searching and searching for this info. My father passed away in March and I’m trying to figure this all out on my own. The manuals seem to assume it’s 60 years ago and the basics of how the tractor work is common knowledge still!!! This was the year I’d set aside time at work for him to teach me how to run and maintain his tractor and mowers he uses with it… My first trip to spend the week with him in January we found out he had cancer and had til the summer/fall. Sadly we got 7 weeks not 7 months. Anyway, sorry for the TMI… point being I’m glad I found your channel and company to help me to do this in his honor even though he can’t be with me. He had a 196? 861 power master 5 speed and completely restored it ab 10 yrs ago before he started going blind. Now it need some work. (My breather filter was worse than the video and the air ??? (System I guess) oil pan was almost 1” deep of muck!!! My question is, do I need to replace the filter up in the air system thing? I don’t see one on your site. I’m ordering the breather filter today. Thank you again for the wonderful and extremely helpful video. Oh, I’m guessing you pull that breather thing off the spot you put the oil in to refill it??? I’ve been trying to figure out how to get the oil in through it. (I think mine might be tack welded on 😬😬😫😫). But if you ever redo the video you may want to note how the breather comes off. Thank you again!!! I will def be using your company for my parts thanks to this video!!!
Enjoy the videos, when starting them up do not stand on the ground. I have an uncle that was going to start one up and it slipped into gear almost killed him as it dragged him around under a Bush Hog. I am sure you help many out. take care
Great video. Happy to see you found a sponsor. AMSOIL is a pretty big deal. Only thing I would nit pick is the W in 15w-40 does not stand for weight. The 15 is your cold weather crank rating. They basically freeze the oil and drag a rod through it and measure the force it takes and give it a number. The W simply means winter. 40 is your viscosity rating at operating temperature. My suggestion when using synthetic oil in any weather would be to find a 0w or 5w-40 oil in order to improve oil flow on cold start up. With modern synthetics this is pretty easy to find. As always great videos. I have watched every single one you guys have uploaded. It's cool to see the huge jump in production quality as your channel grows. 👍
My Opinion: The original Ford spec for these engines was 30W oil. 20W for winter use. I agree the original spec, 10W-30 MS (Motor Severe) is obsolete, but the oil called for is still a 30W. It seems these days 15W-40 is a catch-all multi use. 15W-40 is diesel oil! If you have a gas engine use the 30W oil, it flows better and cleans better. Modern synthetic oils are far superior to oils used in the 60s. 30W Amsoil, or comparable synthetic is an outstanding choice.
@@alanvesper7407 Yes a 0W-30 or 5W-30 is readily available pretty much everywhere. Ideally on an engine like this with sliding parts like a flat tappet cam, fuel pump eccentric and helical gears running at 90° for the distributor; A oil with high levels of ZDDP would be beneficial. Any synthetic "Hotrod" oil will usually have it. I know Redline oils all have it. The only thing to watch out for is oil pressure at hot idle. Just make sure you have at least 10psi. If not a 5W-40 or 10W-40 may be necessary.
Great video! I just inherited two really beat 600 series tractors, so PLEASE keep these Ford specific videos coming. As I think I've requested before, it would be really great if you put out a Ford manual for this era similar to what you did for the Cub. Yes I know you sell the shop manual, but your insights on what's new in the last 70 years would be valuable. I substantially reworked a 1949 Cub with your great guidance and would love to see you continue the series.
We always used the used oil for the air filter. Not a lot of sense wasting good oil to catch dirt flying around. Granted the oil was never sludgy or contaminated with coolant or fuel.
I do not own an old Ford but I watched the full video anyways. How Rachel made changing a tractors oil interesting I am not sure but she did. Good video and great Information.
You actually used the crescent wrench the correct way, I know you know that you know but most don't know what you know.... I use shell rotella T5 15w 40... BTW I rebuilt the updraft carburetor on my Ferguson per your video!
Found your videos, bought my parts, and I am very thankful! I'm afraid that I have a lot more to do, so I will be a return customer. You have all the correct parts and great videos to explain everything.
Thanks for the information. I ended up using an impact to get the block insert out. Spin on is the way to go. Fyi wix 24125 is a conversation kit that uses the original block insert. Motorcraft fl1a filters are easy to find.
One time I thought I watched a video that said we could buy parts through you or somebody that sponsored you? Need electronic 12 volt neg grand parts for distributor on a Farmall Super C. Thank you Rachel and Rachel's Dad. Great videos!
If I remember correctly that square is 1 and 1/16th or maybe 1 and 1/8th inch, so I used an open end wrench, works great and no fiddling with a crescent that never seems to be adjusted correctly without fiddling with the adjuster a bit. I changed the oil on my Jubilee the first time a month ago while waiting for parts.
I have a Ford 601 workhorse that's a gasoline engine. Would you recommend using the 15w40 diesel oil in that tractor and if so why diesel opposed to regular gasoline engine oil
Thanks for the video! We were trying to upgrade our 1954 NAA filter to a spin on. However, the main original nut is on so tight we are afraid of snapping something to get it off. So we stayed with the original style.
Rachel you have great informative videos. For example I like how you explain what oil you use and why. Even if I or others don't agree on this issue... I would like to see more videos related to oil change for the transmission and hydraulic system too. I have a Ford 1953 Golden Jubilee, the original service manual specifies what to use. However all over the internet and Ford dealers recommend completely different oil for transmission and hydraulic these days. One particular oil manufacturer has a class action lawsuit for claims of there oil meeting specifications by Ford. What is your opinion and experience on this particular topic????
Thanks Rachel. One thing to check is the bevel on your sockets. Some makes are beveled to much and that reduces the amount of bearing surface on a thin nut or really tight one. Way to easy to round the nut/fastener off when they are gorilla tight. I found out the hard way. Again great job.
Only once a year , if low usage, vehicles are at least every 3 months, personally I wouldn't let the oil sit in an engine that low, with the unburnt fuel , carbon , sluge, dirt, I would be worried about that. When I had my own yard equipment I would change the oil before winter storage and change again when the season started, excessive probably. Just my thoughts. I enjoyed the video.
Love all your videos and have two of the CDs as well. Where do we get the Manual you Recommend at the end of this video? It is not on your website. Thank you. However, If reusing the canister, the supplied large O-Ring in your kit is too small for easy fit and seal to the canister. I had leak after leak (and I have changed oil with canister filters most of my 67 years of life) with the supplied O-Ring. I cleaned up the much larger "original" (smaller ID/larger OD) O-Ring and the canister fit on easily and had no leaks the first try. I tried it again with another kit and had the same problem and have now reused the "original" (correct size) O-Ring with no leaks twice. I think your large O-Ring supplied with the two kits I used is too small.
First time I pulled the drain plug on my 850 I didn't pay attention to the size of the plug. My drain pan was too small. The oil comes out FAST. Only made that mistake once. That tractor looks to be a 1955. Only year they had flat footrests. Manual comments. 1. Yes, it's an excellent manual. I used mine to change out a rear axle seal and later to do a clutch replacement. 2. Only vintage original editions have the color coded hydraulic charts. New reprints are black and white. Not as easy to follow the hydraulic charts. Vintage original editions show up on eBay but cost more. Might be worth the extra cost if you intend to do hydraulic work. I used to have several copies. Sold them all
Thx Rachel Great coverage can you show a video on the replacement of cement the gear oil in the 5 speed compartment and is there a overflow that will allow excess oil to drain out.
You said to ignore the mesh air filter above the oil sump in the 800 series air filter. When I look at it, there is so much solid black gunk that I suspect it needs replacing. Can I just pull the old mesh out and replace it? I will get the manual. Thanks!
I recently purchased the cartridge filter adapter and watched your video to switch out to the new filter adapter. After I did it I was leaking oil from the filter. As I was tightening the nut down, the plate did move some and might have slip the o-ring off or I might not have tightened down the nut enough. Do you know the ft. lbs that I should I have? Your video was very detailed, and it could have just been that o-ring slipped off. It was late and I didn't want to take it apart again tonight to see.
Hello, love the videos. I just recently came into a 1950 8N. After about an hour of work the oil pressure drops. And the tractor stalls. Would that be the oil pump? Thank you! Looking forward to more videos!
There are few companies here in Sweden that have sold Asmoil for many years. several times customers have found residues of rubbish and sludge and waste oil at the bottom of the plastic canisters the oil is sold in. The company and the manufacturer deny it, of course. As it looks, it is recycled waste oil that amsoil reuses to make money on purchases so that waste oil is cleaned and new additives added and then bottled as new oil in expensive packaging. That's why I don't buy oil from that company at all. Wrote about this earlier here but that comment was removed by this youtube channel. 🤔
Any thoughts on coolant? I wouldn't mind some new coolant in my 600, but I also fear shaking loose rust flakes that are probably the only thing plugging holes 😀.
Great video Rachel. Have a 1962 801 powermaster my uncle bought. Freshened the motor also a 12 v conversion. Was going to order the manual, but see it's a Dvd. How can I order the manual? Thankyou
You’re using the diesel oil is that still appropriate for a gas engine? I have a 56 or 58 800 series gas. I still cannot find the serial number on it. I looked everywhere. Appreciate your time to answer.
Hate the say but I'm running straight 40W in my jubilee and it has oil pressure, with anything thinner it's low when hot, I prefer to know my idle oil pressure when hot, to me all other pressures don't matter,
what size socket do you need to unscrew the oil drain plug on a 1948 Ford 8N tractor ? Very tight, Is there a kit for the spin on oil filters for the *n/1948 ?
Rachel I'm having problems with a throttle on a 601 powermaster??? For some reason it wants to pull to wide open or full throttle while a sitting still and when you crank it up it still wants to pull the full throttle can you give me a hand???
Your recommendation of 15w-40 on older tractors... What about late 1960 4000 and 5000 Fords? Reason I ask is that no matter how careful I am installing the gasket, I get a valve cover leak when my engine is first started and perhaps a thicker oil will help prevent that.
I doubt you would see a change. Given that oil is it's thickest when cold and you get a leak on cold start then I think it would be time for a new gasket. Perhaps the tin is bent from someone "snugging" it up when it first started leaking? Hopefully there is a modern silicone gasket with crush washers in it to help it seal up. There is also an option of grabbing spreader bars to go on top of the valve cover tin that helps spread out the clamping force of the nut. You can find them on 70's and 80's American V8's.
Great job Rachel. Please get on the tractor to start it. I have seen tractors slip in to gear when a person starts it standing in front of the rear tire. I have also seen folks not get the tractor fully into neutral when they thought it was. We want to see you doing videos for years to come.
I had that accidental arcing of the air cleaner on the starter solenoid Rachel talked about at 6:59. The tractor was in first gear and I was sitting exactly where she was.
I went and bought a battery quick disconnect right after that.
I no longer have a Ford tractor but I'm subscribed and love your teaching style.
Glad to see "America's Sweetheart" back!
Didn’t know there was an oil filter conversion option. Thanks!
Anytime you run across a canister filter somebody has probably created a spin on filter conversion. Then you have the latest machines going back to external canisters on the hydraulic side. But that is a different ball game. A lot more flow, and they wanted a lot of filter surface area, so back to canisters we go! LOL.
There are many tractor videos out there. I immediately prefer yours for multiple reasons. Thank you for making such great content!
Great job Rachel. I've used an eight point socket for square headed nuts/bolts which also works . Thanks for sharing
We just moved to Goodrich, MI, and have a small farm off Dutch Road.
We stopped by the Steiner store in Lennon, Mi, and boy were we disappointed in the rudeness of its sales staff.
My husband took a picture of me sitting in the store and the sales clerk said there's no taking photos inside the store! He further went on to say they signed legal documentation to prevent photos from being taken.
We were berated and made to feel shame... (We won't be going back there again, and they should have a sign that says no cameras allowed!). Shame on Steiner ....
Hope the Thanksgiving was bountiful and wishing the Gingell family a Merry Christmas! 🎄 🙏
Just bought a Golden Jubilee!
Please do more videos on that when you find the time please.
You're videos are great and informative ❤️
Love the Old Ford tractor repair videos. Very easy to follow and understand.
I inherited 2 tractors (Ford 800, & Massey Ferguson 240) & unfortunately my dad or grandpa never taught me how to do anything (for all you dads who think you're doing your daughters (or sons) a favor by doing stuff for them, I'm proof you're not!!). A lot of videos have issues like, you can't see what they're talking about; so fast you can't follow; to slow that you're pulling your hair out. Yours are always clear, concise, and easy to follow along with. You guys are such a blessing for folks like me, keep up the great work & thanks so very much!
Love your videos Rachel, Your father must be very proud of you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THANK YOU!!! I have been searching and searching for this info. My father passed away in March and I’m trying to figure this all out on my own. The manuals seem to assume it’s 60 years ago and the basics of how the tractor work is common knowledge still!!! This was the year I’d set aside time at work for him to teach me how to run and maintain his tractor and mowers he uses with it… My first trip to spend the week with him in January we found out he had cancer and had til the summer/fall. Sadly we got 7 weeks not 7 months. Anyway, sorry for the TMI… point being I’m glad I found your channel and company to help me to do this in his honor even though he can’t be with me. He had a 196? 861 power master 5 speed and completely restored it ab 10 yrs ago before he started going blind. Now it need some work. (My breather filter was worse than the video and the air ??? (System I guess) oil pan was almost 1” deep of muck!!!
My question is, do I need to replace the filter up in the air system thing? I don’t see one on your site. I’m ordering the breather filter today. Thank you again for the wonderful and extremely helpful video. Oh, I’m guessing you pull that breather thing off the spot you put the oil in to refill it??? I’ve been trying to figure out how to get the oil in through it. (I think mine might be tack welded on 😬😬😫😫). But if you ever redo the video you may want to note how the breather comes off. Thank you again!!! I will def be using your company for my parts thanks to this video!!!
Enjoy the videos, when starting them up do not stand on the ground. I have an uncle that was going to start one up and it slipped into gear almost killed him as it dragged him around under a Bush Hog. I am sure you help many out. take care
Sure is good to see Rachel's friendly smile again. That Service Manual has got to be the best manual ever written.
Great video. Happy to see you found a sponsor. AMSOIL is a pretty big deal. Only thing I would nit pick is the W in 15w-40 does not stand for weight. The 15 is your cold weather crank rating. They basically freeze the oil and drag a rod through it and measure the force it takes and give it a number. The W simply means winter. 40 is your viscosity rating at operating temperature. My suggestion when using synthetic oil in any weather would be to find a 0w or 5w-40 oil in order to improve oil flow on cold start up. With modern synthetics this is pretty easy to find.
As always great videos. I have watched every single one you guys have uploaded. It's cool to see the huge jump in production quality as your channel grows. 👍
My Opinion: The original Ford spec for these engines was 30W oil. 20W for winter use. I agree the original spec, 10W-30 MS (Motor Severe) is obsolete, but the oil called for is still a 30W. It seems these days 15W-40 is a catch-all multi use. 15W-40 is diesel oil! If you have a gas engine use the 30W oil, it flows better and cleans better. Modern synthetic oils are far superior to oils used in the 60s. 30W Amsoil, or comparable synthetic is an outstanding choice.
@@alanvesper7407 Yes a 0W-30 or 5W-30 is readily available pretty much everywhere. Ideally on an engine like this with sliding parts like a flat tappet cam, fuel pump eccentric and helical gears running at 90° for the distributor; A oil with high levels of ZDDP would be beneficial. Any synthetic "Hotrod" oil will usually have it. I know Redline oils all have it. The only thing to watch out for is oil pressure at hot idle. Just make sure you have at least 10psi. If not a 5W-40 or 10W-40 may be necessary.
Very informative Rachel. I very much prefer the spin on oil filters. Much better than the old style.
Great video! I just inherited two really beat 600 series tractors, so PLEASE keep these Ford specific videos coming. As I think I've requested before, it would be really great if you put out a Ford manual for this era similar to what you did for the Cub. Yes I know you sell the shop manual, but your insights on what's new in the last 70 years would be valuable. I substantially reworked a 1949 Cub with your great guidance and would love to see you continue the series.
Another amazing video Rachel, you certainly are handy with the tractors, Thanks so much. 🚜
you are my "go to girl" for keeping my Jubilee running properly...great job!
We always used the used oil for the air filter. Not a lot of sense wasting good oil to catch dirt flying around. Granted the oil was never sludgy or contaminated with coolant or fuel.
I do not own an old Ford but I watched the full video anyways. How Rachel made changing a tractors oil interesting I am not sure but she did. Good video and great Information.
You actually used the crescent wrench the correct way, I know you know that you know but most don't know what you know.... I use shell rotella T5 15w 40... BTW I rebuilt the updraft carburetor on my Ferguson per your video!
Found your videos, bought my parts, and I am very thankful! I'm afraid that I have a lot more to do, so I will be a return customer. You have all the correct parts and great videos to explain everything.
Perfect how-to! This video saved me from possibly ruining my granddads old tractor.
Thank you! I'm glad we were able to assist. -Rachel
Thanks for the information. I ended up using an impact to get the block insert out. Spin on is the way to go. Fyi wix 24125 is a conversation kit that uses the original block insert.
Motorcraft fl1a filters are easy to find.
One time I thought I watched a video that said we could buy parts through you or somebody that sponsored you? Need electronic 12 volt neg grand parts for distributor on a Farmall Super C. Thank you Rachel and Rachel's Dad. Great videos!
Beautiful mechanic i ever seen. And great video
Learned a lot from watching your videos, thanks.
I learn something new every time I watch you. Is there a spin on conversion for the 8n? Thanks as always to you and your dad for the videos!
I have the same question.
Yes their is
Rachel is a champion tractorer. Love the videos. Need to change the oil on my Jubilee.
If I remember correctly that square is 1 and 1/16th or maybe 1 and 1/8th inch, so I used an open end wrench, works great and no fiddling with a crescent that never seems to be adjusted correctly without fiddling with the adjuster a bit. I changed the oil on my Jubilee the first time a month ago while waiting for parts.
Great video Rachel. Hope y'all had a blessed Thanksgiving. Take care and have a blessed day and I'll see you on your next video.
I have a Ford 601 workhorse that's a gasoline engine. Would you recommend using the 15w40 diesel oil in that tractor and if so why diesel opposed to regular gasoline engine oil
Rachel madam ji you have given very good information thank you very much👌👍🇮🇳🚜🚜😀😀
Thanks for the video! We were trying to upgrade our 1954 NAA filter to a spin on. However, the main original nut is on so tight we are afraid of snapping something to get it off. So we stayed with the original style.
Rachel you have great informative videos. For example I like how you explain what oil you use and why. Even if I or others don't agree on this issue... I would like to see more videos related to oil change for the transmission and hydraulic system too. I have a Ford 1953 Golden Jubilee, the original service manual specifies what to use. However all over the internet and Ford dealers recommend completely different oil for transmission and hydraulic these days. One particular oil manufacturer has a class action lawsuit for claims of there oil meeting specifications by Ford. What is your opinion and experience on this particular topic????
Hi Kenny, Oil technology has moved forward since 1953. There are better oils on the market today and we like to use them when appropriate. -Rachel
Nice video and good to see u guys backkkkkk
Straight to the point, easy, useful instructions. Thank you.
Thanks for your great vid's.I live on a Kibbutz in Israel and we had Farmall m , h & Fergossons. You look very proffesional & your work is great.
Thanks Rachel. One thing to check is the bevel on your sockets. Some makes are beveled to much and that reduces the amount of bearing surface on a thin nut or really tight one. Way to easy to round the nut/fastener off when they are gorilla tight. I found out the hard way. Again great job.
Wondering if I could put Amsoil in my Ford 2810 tractor
Another amazing video Rachel, you certainly are handy with the tractors, Thanks so much.
Changing the Oil is vital to protect the engine from break down !
Great job
I like everything you put on youtube................Greetz from the Netherlands!!!
Good job Rachel!
Always a great job. I like that brand of oil to. Thanks 😊 🙏
Right Rachel, the oil and oil filter must be changed.
Great video. I remember the oil plug in my 9N was very rugged. Thanks
Good tech session for us car guys interested in farm equipment.
Only once a year , if low usage, vehicles are at least every 3 months, personally I wouldn't let the oil sit in an engine that low, with the unburnt fuel , carbon , sluge, dirt, I would be worried about that. When I had my own yard equipment I would change the oil before winter storage and change again when the season started, excessive probably. Just my thoughts. I enjoyed the video.
Excellent tutorial!
Gloves indeed - that 5 quarts is coming out all at once!
Love all your videos and have two of the CDs as well. Where do we get the Manual you Recommend at the end of this video? It is not on your website. Thank you.
However, If reusing the canister, the supplied large O-Ring in your kit is too small for easy fit and seal to the canister. I had leak after leak (and I have changed oil with canister filters most of my 67 years of life) with the supplied O-Ring. I cleaned up the much larger "original" (smaller ID/larger OD) O-Ring and the canister fit on easily and had no leaks the first try. I tried it again with another kit and had the same problem and have now reused the "original" (correct size) O-Ring with no leaks twice. I think your large O-Ring supplied with the two kits I used is too small.
I am your big fan from kaithal Haryana,(INDIA) 💕 ALL YOUR POST OK
I really enjoy your video's. All the best from Greensboro NC.
First time I pulled the drain plug on my 850 I didn't pay attention to the size of the plug. My drain pan was too small. The oil comes out FAST. Only made that mistake once. That tractor looks to be a 1955. Only year they had flat footrests.
Manual comments. 1. Yes, it's an excellent manual. I used mine to change out a rear axle seal and later to do a clutch replacement. 2. Only vintage original editions have the color coded hydraulic charts. New reprints are black and white. Not as easy to follow the hydraulic charts. Vintage original editions show up on eBay but cost more. Might be worth the extra cost if you intend to do hydraulic work. I used to have several copies. Sold them all
It Was Worth the Wait. Great Video
What is the reason to use 15w-40 diesel oil in a gas engine? Also why not use 5w-40 so oil has broader operating temperature? Thanks
Thank you Rachel.
Just got a 640 this was great
In this episode of _Plow Free_ Rachel rehabilitates and returns another neglected tractor to the wild...
Great information, what happens when I find little bbs on the drain plug?
Thx Rachel Great coverage can you show a video on the replacement of cement the gear oil in the 5 speed compartment and is there a overflow that will allow excess oil to drain out.
Great details
Wow I just stumbled across you channel... awesomeness....I'm in thank you...and great job 👉
You said to ignore the mesh air filter above the oil sump in the 800 series air filter. When I look at it, there is so much solid black gunk that I suspect it needs replacing. Can I just pull the old mesh out and replace it? I will get the manual. Thanks!
Great work I love you and your channel 💜
Good work
Great video as always.
Some say that synthetic oil can damage oil seals, does anyone know about that?
Rachel,can you please tell me what type of transmission oil to get on 841 1963 Ford tractor and thanks for all your teaching
54 jubilee checking in.
I recently purchased the cartridge filter adapter and watched your video to switch out to the new filter adapter. After I did it I was leaking oil from the filter. As I was tightening the nut down, the plate did move some and might have slip the o-ring off or I might not have tightened down the nut enough. Do you know the ft. lbs that I should I have? Your video was very detailed, and it could have just been that o-ring slipped off. It was late and I didn't want to take it apart again tonight to see.
Hello, love the videos. I just recently came into a 1950 8N. After about an hour of work the oil pressure drops. And the tractor stalls. Would that be the oil pump? Thank you! Looking forward to more videos!
Those old fords really look hot rod !
Great video!
Thank you for this video Rachel. Do you have a video for an alternator conversion also. Surely would appreciate it if you do.👍
Unfortunately we do not. Apologies! -Rachel
There are few companies here in Sweden that have sold Asmoil for many years. several times customers have found residues of rubbish and sludge and waste oil at the bottom of the plastic canisters the oil is sold in.
The company and the manufacturer deny it, of course.
As it looks, it is recycled waste oil that amsoil reuses to make money on purchases so that waste oil is cleaned and new additives added and then bottled as new oil in expensive packaging.
That's why I don't buy oil from that company at all.
Wrote about this earlier here but that comment was removed by this youtube channel. 🤔
Any thoughts on coolant? I wouldn't mind some new coolant in my 600, but I also fear shaking loose rust flakes that are probably the only thing plugging holes 😀.
Great video Rachel. Have a 1962 801 powermaster my uncle bought. Freshened the motor also a 12 v conversion. Was going to order the manual, but see it's a Dvd. How can I order the manual? Thankyou
Thank you very much……….
You’re using the diesel oil is that still appropriate for a gas engine? I have a 56 or 58 800 series gas. I still cannot find the serial number on it. I looked everywhere.
Appreciate your time to answer.
Hate the say but I'm running straight 40W in my jubilee and it has oil pressure, with anything thinner it's low when hot, I prefer to know my idle oil pressure when hot, to me all other pressures don't matter,
what size socket do you need to unscrew the oil drain plug on a 1948 Ford 8N tractor ? Very tight, Is there a kit for the spin on oil filters for the *n/1948 ?
Do you have a video on resetting the distance between the rear tires on a Ford model 950?
Thank you again!!!!
You're welcome!
Rachel I'm having problems with a throttle on a 601 powermaster??? For some reason it wants to pull to wide open or full throttle while a sitting still and when you crank it up it still wants to pull the full throttle can you give me a hand???
The oil jug said diese oil or so. Would it mater using it in a gas engine ?
I have the biggest crush on Rachel my word
Expensive oil to dump in that air cleaner!
Would it be better to remove the oil bath cleaner to a all air cleaner.
I need to know how oil circulation system works?
I have 800 series 172 engine in a 1965 2000. How is oil pumped to head to feed rocker arm assembly?
Your recommendation of 15w-40 on older tractors... What about late 1960 4000 and 5000 Fords? Reason I ask is that no matter how careful I am installing the gasket, I get a valve cover leak when my engine is first started and perhaps a thicker oil will help prevent that.
I doubt you would see a change. Given that oil is it's thickest when cold and you get a leak on cold start then I think it would be time for a new gasket. Perhaps the tin is bent from someone "snugging" it up when it first started leaking? Hopefully there is a modern silicone gasket with crush washers in it to help it seal up. There is also an option of grabbing spreader bars to go on top of the valve cover tin that helps spread out the clamping force of the nut. You can find them on 70's and 80's American V8's.
Hi I have a 800 with loader and no 3 point on the back and I can’t find we’re to put hydraulic fluid in. Any tips?
What if there’s oil in the antifreeze.
Anywhere we can purchase a new hollow bolt? The nut on the end of mine is rounded from 68 years of vice grips.
Can I use this and share to a friend as iam a dealer for amsoil
does anyone know where i can find information on servicing an allis chalmers 5040
Any injector pump rebuild videos on let's say a 1980 Ford 4100??
Do you use diesel oil in all your gasoline engines?