Shorten a Driveshaft in your Home Garage
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- čas přidán 27. 04. 2024
- My 1966 C2 Corvette resto-mod project has the new engine and transmission installed. Now I need to connect them to the differential. This video shows how I shortened the driveshaft. There are some important things to be aware of and to make sure you get it right.
I'll probably never shorten a driveshaft but this detailed video of the process was awesome to watch. Good job.
Thank You!
@@DickShaw I have shortened a lot of driveshafts racecars, and pretty much do it the same way other then I never had a dial indicator I just used my eye as I turned it.
I've done many driveline. Might I suggest using a pipe cutter to cut the tube down. Chop saws seldom cut perfectly true
That dude is gangster. He was rollin the whole chassis when checking it
Thanks for watching!
Out the cob-webs: Read arcticle hot rod mag mentioned cutting shaft w/big tube cutter and the square cut would seat yoke perfectly. May have been popular hot rodding. LOL.
Excellent video and as he said if there is a vibration it can be balanced at a drive line shop
I did one ..no problem...before i cut i took a straight angle iron. And scribed a line total lenght...so 100% lined u joints back
Good idea!
Some years ago I broke the front u-joint and bent the driveshaft on my 1974 Chevelle. I took it to local driveshaft shop. I don't remember the numbers, but I think it was about an hour's labor plus the price of two u-joints. That included balancing. Considering I didn't have a garage or a welder at the time, I felt that was reasonable.
very nice job and filming
Thank you.
Wow Dick, that chassis is looking amazing 🤩 your attention to detail is 1st class and well thought out 👍🏻 What a great series 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
U did a marvelous job Old Sport!🇺🇲
Thank you!
I remember I had several gto and Pontiac driveshaft’s hanging in my garage, the night the garage burned those driveshaft’s were freakin missiles hahaha some exploded,opening flat with the yokes missing, some were several houses away
Great tips. Cheers.
I've done it 4 times in my life, and I've been lucky every time. I only took one of them in to have it balanced, the other 3 were shorter than what he's working with.
I always use a pipe cutter and it does a great job of making a square cut and is the shaft flat on my table to clock the yokes and measure center to center on both sides. When everything is square weld it up. I never had one to vibrate or fail with decades of building them for street and drag cars , some with 5:67 rear gears and no vibrations. A pipe cutter that cuts like a tubing cutter makes a perfect cut for driveshafts. A chop saw is not nearly as good for cutting a shaft but I understand you use what you have and if it works great. There’s no big deal to cutting one if you are careful.
Thank you
I will be waiting when you fire it up and run it can’t wait .
Thanks Dick , super interesting . Been a mechanic for 50 years on all kinds of stuff good to see it done right.
Well done, I'm about to do same on a project I am working on, thanks for sharing.
Good luck!
I have done this many many times, mainly on older BMW's when fitting later 5 speed gearboxes, the only one I had a vibration issue with was an E32 750i I built up from a damaged 750iL, I balanced the shaft using two hose pipe clips, we call them Jubilee clips, the head of the clip being the balance weight, I did send it for balancing after a year or so of use and it came back worse, refitted the clips by trial and error, mark the shaft and move the clips 1/4" at a time whilst driving the car on a lift,
Way to go. Doing what it takes to get a favorable outcome.
Very cool. Nothing to be afraid of.
Great tutorial. I read a spec. of .03 runout on a carbon shaft for 9 sec. dragcars.
I built shafts in v blocks on the bench and more accurately jigged in the truck while checking runout and welding. Never had a vibration.
Great video
Nice job done.
Let me know when you actually run it.
I love your engine and tranny wow.
👍🏼👍🏼
I will be posting a video of when it fires up and when I drive it. Thanks for watching.
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
A simple scribe line to line back up with yokes.?
You do real nice work, I have had a number of drive shafts shorted and they did not look as professionally done as the one in your garage, the welds on mine look like rope and there are a washer or two welded on the tube and then just painted over rust . But on the positive side they never vibrated?
Thanks 👍
Balanced ?
thats a good idea, never thought of doing that way, i like the old lufkin indicator
Very Nicely Done Thank You !~!~
Thank you too!
There are ways to balance driveshafts ,with out machines, some books out there
Nice job
Thanks!
I've done a few of them. only had a problem with one of them. I never checked runout with a dial gauge. I will do that next time.
Good JOB. |
Thanks!
Company I worked for years ago hired a driver who had lost an eye pounding on a U-joint in his dads driveway.
Safety glasses needed for sure.
This is a great example of what NOT to do.
Please explain your reasoning. Everyone needs to learn as much as they can, including me. I've done this many times and always with great results!
Nice work thanks from old New Orleans 😇
The dial pointer should be removed from the surface before tapping to avoid damaging the indicator.
sorry to say once you cut the shaft putting the weights in the same spot is usless it could need more or less and in a diffrent place comen sence really
With only 7/8" of the drive shaft length removed, the same weights in the same spot, it should be very close to balanced. If I had removed a foot or more of it, you are probably right.
My Dad used to do this. And he never had a problem with vibration or anything.
Y0u must leave at least 1 inch of travel for rear end to travel up in hard acceleration if you dont you will bust the bell housing on the teansmission
You are right for most applications, and I wish I had mentioned something about it in the video. On these C2 Corvettes they have independent rear suspensions with the differential mounted to the frame, so it is not moving at all while the car is moving and going over bumps etc. Therefore, the only travel I need is enough to remove the driveshaft easily, which I have. Thanks for watching and the comment.
No no no . Will be out of balance among out of center
Nice work, thank you
Thank you too!
Spend the money to have it balanced. Do your driveline a favor.
For those watching this video don't do it. It's probably going to vibrate like crazy. There's no way you're going to match the end to what it was originally. The reason the weights are on it is because they're not cut true to start with.
You are wrong, building hot rods over 45yrs. Done it exactly like the man showed many times. The key is checking the run out and always make your cut in the rear. Don't believe, check run out on any drive shaft, they sure ain't perfect from the factory. They vibrate bad when bowed in the middle. This man did a perfectly good job. Out of curiosity have you ever done this job? or are you another comic book reader?😂
I have shortened driveshafts this way many many times and never have had a vibration or any other problem with it. Thanks for watching!
@@scottnusser6232 I work for the company that started building custom drive shafts back in the 60s. I know exactly what acceptable run out is. Eyeball and ain't going to get it. The bottom line is to take an angle grinder in a chop saw and cut it down drive shaft off and welded back thinking you're going to have a good drive shaft you're a f****** idiot
The world is full of people telling you don't do it ? Hot rodders love to prove you wrong 😂❤
Take your time, measure correctly, I did my first driveline build when I was 17, pay $600 that I did have or nervously spend 3 hours, easy choice, keep everything in line, make sure your tube is cut square and the odds of a vibration are very low
Get it balanced and have them spin it up to at least 120 mph /rpm. Then do some good burn outs to test welds and prove to yourself it will hold. Then do some more burnouts because it’s fun. Then do some more just because. Life’s short burn rubber while you can.
I like the way you think :).
I’ve done this dozens of times exactly like this with big power as well as lifted trks with big tires never had a problem.
My drag trk makes 600 hp with a 200 shot of nx on top of that with my home made drive shaft.
My 3200 pound truck and 727 has never had a drive shaft issue. It’ll work be careful and get it straight
Thanks for posting. I've done quite a few as well and never a problem.
@@DickShaw I’m glad to finally see someone post a video like this. Me and a buddy did it back in 1979-80 the fist time and ppl said that’ll never work 😂. Got a buddy right now says it’ll never work and run true 😂 seeing is believing.
My Dad shortend many driveshaft at home in his garage by puting a piece of tape on it to keep it all in line & straight so it wouldn't shake ur teeth out !
That yoke is too far in on the transmission spline shaft.
Thanks for your comment. However, because the rear differential is fixed in the frame and not moving up and down as the car is driven, the yoke will not be moving in and out of the transmission. Therefore it doesn't really matter how far it is in the transmission as long as there is room to remove the driveshaft. At least that is my understanding of it.
@@DickShawexcellent work man. God bless you 👍
The slip yoke should be at least 1 inch pulled out
You are right for most applications, and I wish I had mentioned something about it in the video. On these C2 Corvettes they have independent rear suspensions with the differential mounted to the frame, so it is not moving at all while the car is in motion and going over bumps etc. Therefore, the only yoke travel I need is enough to remove the driveshaft easily, which I have. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Good job but no way would you get this right with a lathe.
You went to a lot of trouble to out smart yourself.
Setting the transmission output yoke that far in could be a disaster!?.. .
The rear differential is fixed in the frame so it does not change as the car goes over bumps. Therefore, the yoke will not be moving in and out of the transmission. As long as the driveshaft is removable it doesn't matter how far it is into the trans. Thanks for watching - good eye!
Anyone even thinking about doing this should really think about all the other things you tried to do that looked easy and failed, badly! This is a guaranteed disaster.
when you go over a bump[ you will hate yourslef for puting that joint to far in toe trans
The rear differential is fixed in the frame so it does not change as the car goes over bumps. Therefore, the yoke will not be moving in and out of the transmission. As long as the driveshaft is removable it doesn't matter how far it is into the trans. Thanks for watching - good eye!
Omg. Do not do this! I built driveline professionally. This will end in disaster.
Please explain why you think this. I have done a dozen or so like this and have never had a problem. Even when racing on the dirt track years ago.