When I had the firewood business my saws get there air cleaners cleaned, chains sharpened every evening, every weekend they got torn down and cleaned, clutch greased. Everytime I gassed up the chain gets sharpened, bar nose greased.
I started putting those cheap hour counter/tach on every saw I don't have a warranty on just so I can monitor hours on the saw for maintenance and cleaning after I destroyed one of my pawn shop finds running it dirty and overheated it last year. I've been recommending them to all of my logger/arborist friends since everyone seems to forget the basics at the end of the day. I've won a few over since a 20$ hour meter is cheaper than excessive wear or damage due to negligence, it's also ok for field tuning if you don't mind +- 1-200 rpm on the cheap ones. As for the field damage some guys up here in Herkimer county find places inside the roll cage of their skidder/tractors to mount an aluminum or wood scabbard with a retaining strap for at least one of their saws, and others find a young guy who wants to learn the trade to haul tools for them(I know because I got stuck doing it), your repeat customers may want to consider one of the two to avoid some headaches and unnecessary costs down the road.
Great video as alway mate!!! I don't tend to see many main bearings go over here in the uk. More cylinder & piston replacemts due to people using fuel with weak mix. You were saying about husqvarna bringing out a new saw. I have seen on my parts order system that looks like there might be a 572xp & a 565 that I guess could be replacing the 372 and 365. My husqy area manager is going to keep me informed. Will be very interesting.
afleetcommand I guess if it was to be announced this year. I won't be out till at least mid of next year. Will be interesting to see what saw it would be closer to 576 or 562
You might want to try silicone tape on the spark plug wires. It stretches and sticks to itself and is high heat resistant. Won't burn with a propane torch.
Its great to know that not all nylon caged bearings are destin to fail with low hours. I am finally putting one of my 575's together and using the nylon caged bearing. I also installed new crank cups because the PTO side was melted and the small weep holes were plugged. It looks like those holes aid in getting lube to the bearings, just my thinking. Now a question on timing numbers tell me what you think? On this one Im using a Huztl 51mm cylinder and piston and no base gasket and got these numbers. Intake opens @ 68degs BTDC full open @ TDC closed @ 68degsATDC Transfers open @ 72degs ATDC full open @ BDC closed @ 72degs ABDC Exhaust opens @ 98degs ATDC full open @ 168degs ATDC closed @ 98degs BTDC
thanks for info on computer stuff on my 550xp took it back to rons husky they ran it thru the computer nothing wrong but it starts better when hot dont know why. they also told me to push switch down before starting it when its warm starts better
Thats the reality. We like the saws as a hobby and almost a motor sport. Most see them as a tool they have to go do work with...:) Bob has been saying this for years, ours is a different world than most of the saw users and owners out there. Reliability is the focus not bling..:)
afleetcommand I don't do nearly as many saws as you do.....but on my bench now is a 200t with a clogged air filter...among other things. Amazing how nobody takes off the cover. Also told the guy to fire whoever was sharpening his chains lol
Building loghouses we always clean our saws atleast every evening. When we dont we see smoke lol from stuck chips soon. Those bird nests get nasty in there no air movement and many of those guys who just ran there saws blew there pistons fast. I managed to run my saws for years untill they were worn out. 40:1 mix and keeping it clean and sharp kept my saws going for years. The newer 5th series saws do have smaller and tighter angled fins that are a pain to keep clean tho compared to the older 3rd series ones. i was also taught to let the saw to go idle every 15-20seconds that also seems to help.
Thanks for the video's. Very helpful. I have a Husqvarna 51 with very low hrs. Went to use it the other day and when I started it. the clutch plastic started to smoke. I took it apart and found the white plastic oiler and tin cover that holds it in place bent and the oiler partially out of its fitted housing. Install new oiler and tin cover, but now does not seem to be oiling correctly. Any suggestions?.
I've never used a tach to tune a saw, was just taught to let it 2 cycle at wot, so it leans out under load. Probably run everything too rich, but it beats the alternative!
With Autotunes obviously no Tach is required, and the older saw a good "ear" is a reasonable plan as well. The place where tachs are most useful are the saws with limited ignitions as the "limit" sounds like the double stroke burble you want to hear..:) Many get there ...try for a few new RPM's and hear no change....go further....without understanding they are on the limiter. Most aren't savey enough to wind the adjuster back out enough to get a difference. Keeps people like me busy...:)
That last 372 you showed that had the broken bar on the case, I have the exact same issue and have been exploring ways to fix it, since cases are really expensive in Canada. Is that bar really necessary? Would JB weld be ok for a repair? I do nto have access to a TIG, but I could try silver soldering it up. I do not know the ignition temp of the Mg alloy cases, but I figure it has to be higher than the melting point of silver solder. I would appreciate any advice you have for me. It's either that or I strip it down and find a guy that has the tools to split the cases, R&R the bearings, seals and get a new case half.
I used to fly ultralight aircraft and always ran Pennzoil 2 cycle for Air Cooled. Rotax and Hirth engines were always in great shape at the tear down intervals. What is your experience with 2 cycle oils?
Mostly with the ester based synthetics. I run 32:1 for everything. My two strokes also look very good on inspection or tear downs. Can honestly say I haven't had a lubrication caused failure since the 1970's
I fly radio controlled modle aircraft. I also use pennzoil air cooled. Now I use quakerstate because I can not find the pennzoil. I mix it 24:1 in my new 550xp mark 2.
Hey Walt, just finished the rebuild on my 350 thanks to you and Matt's video's. However, now I've got the chainsaw bug. Yesterday, I picked up a 570, not an xp. Do you have any video's on mods for the 500 series? This one cranks and runs, but is low on compression. I pulled the muffler, and could see some very light scoring on the piston. The spark plug looks like it's been running lean and I found a hose line off, that looks like it should go on a nib near the cylinder/clutch side of the carb? Also wondering if the Huztl 372 P&C are a fit for this? Thanks, Ken
I finally found a picture posted on OPE and the hose does go on the nib. And sorry for the dumb question about the 372 P&C. Obviously once I tore into the saw I could see the transfer ports around the front of the cylinder so the cylinder is out of the question. I don't see hardly anything on the 570 series. Are they bad saws, people didn't like them, or what's the issue??? Thanks, Ken
So did they go away from the Nylon bearing thing or is this still a problem? Bought my 372 last year and it was a 2019 model so I hoped it had been fixed
Still have nylons, but other things got adjusted so they now last as long as any. Early ones they ran hot because of a few issues and didn't last as long as they should have, but the steels could handle those early saw issues and why mine did. That's as close as I'm going to get to a full explanation . 2019 will be a solid saw , your not going to see bearing issues :)
Leave it stock, it will likely outlast your desire to run it that way :) Just keep fresh gas/oil mix in it, keep it clean especially the fin's and have the fuel filter & air filter replaced every year.
They have nylon cages to separate the balls. And it might. Having the "no load" max rpm set at 13,000 or a bit under and using 40:1 essentially reduces the potential issues even if it does have those bearings. I haven't seen one in the shop with bearing issues built after 2014 so I wouldn't worry.
Such a wealth of knowledge....thanks Walt
Great observations Walt! Thank you again ... Team Orange
When I had the firewood business my saws get there air cleaners cleaned, chains sharpened every evening, every weekend they got torn down and cleaned, clutch greased. Everytime I gassed up the chain gets sharpened, bar nose greased.
I started putting those cheap hour counter/tach on every saw I don't have a warranty on just so I can monitor hours on the saw for maintenance and cleaning after I destroyed one of my pawn shop finds running it dirty and overheated it last year. I've been recommending them to all of my logger/arborist friends since everyone seems to forget the basics at the end of the day. I've won a few over since a 20$ hour meter is cheaper than excessive wear or damage due to negligence, it's also ok for field tuning if you don't mind +- 1-200 rpm on the cheap ones. As for the field damage some guys up here in Herkimer county find places inside the roll cage of their skidder/tractors to mount an aluminum or wood scabbard with a retaining strap for at least one of their saws, and others find a young guy who wants to learn the trade to haul tools for them(I know because I got stuck doing it), your repeat customers may want to consider one of the two to avoid some headaches and unnecessary costs down the road.
Great video as alway mate!!!
I don't tend to see many main bearings go over here in the uk. More cylinder & piston replacemts due to people using fuel with weak mix.
You were saying about husqvarna bringing out a new saw.
I have seen on my parts order system that looks like there might be a 572xp & a 565 that I guess could be replacing the 372 and 365.
My husqy area manager is going to keep me informed. Will be very interesting.
Heard similar things....but will be a little while later for us is my guess
afleetcommand I guess if it was to be announced this year. I won't be out till at least mid of next year.
Will be interesting to see what saw it would be closer to 576 or 562
thanks for the new video
You might want to try silicone tape on the spark plug wires. It stretches and sticks to itself and is high heat resistant. Won't burn with a propane torch.
Its great to know that not all nylon caged bearings are destin to fail with low hours. I am finally putting one of my 575's together and using the nylon caged bearing. I also installed new crank cups because the PTO side was melted and the small weep holes were plugged. It looks like those holes aid in getting lube to the bearings, just my thinking.
Now a question on timing numbers tell me what you think? On this one Im using a Huztl 51mm cylinder and piston and no base gasket and got these numbers.
Intake opens @ 68degs BTDC full open @ TDC closed @ 68degsATDC
Transfers open @ 72degs ATDC full open @ BDC closed @ 72degs ABDC
Exhaust opens @ 98degs ATDC full open @ 168degs ATDC closed @ 98degs BTDC
thanks for info on computer stuff on my 550xp took it back to rons husky they ran it thru the computer nothing wrong but it starts better when hot dont know why. they also told me to push switch down before starting it when its warm starts better
Always amazes me that none of these loggers or tree guys seem to check their air filters.... ever ...... ever.... ugh.
Thats the reality. We like the saws as a hobby and almost a motor sport. Most see them as a tool they have to go do work with...:) Bob has been saying this for years, ours is a different world than most of the saw users and owners out there. Reliability is the focus not bling..:)
afleetcommand I don't do nearly as many saws as you do.....but on my bench now is a 200t with a clogged air filter...among other things. Amazing how nobody takes off the cover. Also told the guy to fire whoever was sharpening his chains lol
Building loghouses we always clean our saws atleast every evening. When we dont we see smoke lol from stuck chips soon. Those bird nests get nasty in there no air movement and many of those guys who just ran there saws blew there pistons fast. I managed to run my saws for years untill they were worn out. 40:1 mix and keeping it clean and sharp kept my saws going for years. The newer 5th series saws do have smaller and tighter angled fins that are a pain to keep clean tho compared to the older 3rd series ones. i was also taught to let the saw to go idle every 15-20seconds that also seems to help.
Thanks for the video's. Very helpful. I have a Husqvarna 51 with very low hrs. Went to use it the other day and when I started it. the clutch plastic started to smoke. I took it apart and found the white plastic oiler and tin cover that holds it in place bent and the oiler partially out of its fitted housing. Install new oiler and tin cover, but now does not seem to be oiling correctly. Any suggestions?.
Walt! @ 16.54 did you drive that bearing in the case on the inner race??
I was thinking the same thing. Just press the thing in with the right size cup. Those poor races
5.5 HP 92 driver 372 XP best, and of course with timber tuff equipment and the rest in peace ⚰️
Cut the spark plug wire shorter to take some of the slack out to keep it straighter.
I've never used a tach to tune a saw, was just taught to let it 2 cycle at wot, so it leans out under load. Probably run everything too rich, but it beats the alternative!
With Autotunes obviously no Tach is required, and the older saw a good "ear" is a reasonable plan as well. The place where tachs are most useful are the saws with limited ignitions as the "limit" sounds like the double stroke burble you want to hear..:) Many get there ...try for a few new RPM's and hear no change....go further....without understanding they are on the limiter. Most aren't savey enough to wind the adjuster back out enough to get a difference. Keeps people like me busy...:)
That last 372 you showed that had the broken bar on the case, I have the exact same issue and have been exploring ways to fix it, since cases are really expensive in Canada. Is that bar really necessary? Would JB weld be ok for a repair? I do nto have access to a TIG, but I could try silver soldering it up. I do not know the ignition temp of the Mg alloy cases, but I figure it has to be higher than the melting point of silver solder. I would appreciate any advice you have for me. It's either that or I strip it down and find a guy that has the tools to split the cases, R&R the bearings, seals and get a new case half.
I used to fly ultralight aircraft and always ran Pennzoil 2 cycle for Air Cooled. Rotax and Hirth engines were always in great shape at the tear down intervals. What is your experience with 2 cycle oils?
Mostly with the ester based synthetics. I run 32:1 for everything. My two strokes also look very good on inspection or tear downs. Can honestly say I haven't had a lubrication caused failure since the 1970's
afleetcommand thanks
I fly radio controlled modle aircraft. I also use pennzoil air cooled. Now I use quakerstate because I can not find the pennzoil. I mix it 24:1 in my new 550xp mark 2.
Hey Walt, just finished the rebuild on my 350 thanks to you and Matt's video's. However, now I've got the chainsaw bug. Yesterday, I picked up a 570, not an xp. Do you have any video's on mods for the 500 series? This one cranks and runs, but is low on compression. I pulled the muffler, and could see some very light scoring on the piston. The spark plug looks like it's been running lean and I found a hose line off, that looks like it should go on a nib near the cylinder/clutch side of the carb? Also wondering if the Huztl 372 P&C are a fit for this? Thanks, Ken
I finally found a picture posted on OPE and the hose does go on the nib. And sorry for the dumb question about the 372 P&C. Obviously once I tore into the saw I could see the transfer ports around the front of the cylinder so the cylinder is out of the question. I don't see hardly anything on the 570 series. Are they bad saws, people didn't like them, or what's the issue??? Thanks, Ken
So did they go away from the Nylon bearing thing or is this still a problem? Bought my 372 last year and it was a 2019 model so I hoped it had been fixed
Still have nylons, but other things got adjusted so they now last as long as any. Early ones they ran hot because of a few issues and didn't last as long as they should have, but the steels could handle those early saw issues and why mine did. That's as close as I'm going to get to a full explanation . 2019 will be a solid saw , your not going to see bearing issues :)
I have a 572 with about 150 hours on it do you think I should take the screen out of the muffler would it help the motor to last longer?
Leave it stock, it will likely outlast your desire to run it that way :) Just keep fresh gas/oil mix in it, keep it clean especially the fin's and have the fuel filter & air filter replaced every year.
What are your thoughts on amsoil interceptor oil?
Just another Synthetic...
Will marvel’s oil hurt the saws?
yes
OPS,other peoples saw
I have a 2017 372xp G does it have nylon bearings? Good to hear a 40:1 mix is good thats what i have used for about 6 years or so.
They have nylon cages to separate the balls. And it might. Having the "no load" max rpm set at 13,000 or a bit under and using 40:1 essentially reduces the potential issues even if it does have those bearings. I haven't seen one in the shop with bearing issues built after 2014 so I wouldn't worry.
Thank you for the reply :) Love your videos. I learn alot from you and Bob. Keep up the good videos!
Not long, only 16 minutes