Great video. Well done and articulate. Some steps we missed. I personally don’t trust plastic zip ties for any length of time unless it’s manufactured recommended or not critical. Like a small engine fuel line to close for comfort. Lol 🔥🔥 School of hard knocks I guess. Live and learn.
Thanks and glad you liked it. Zips are commonly used there but yes a SS ear/oetiker clamp is best and oem. A metal screw clamp is a mistake unless you use two and offset them 180 so they stay in balance.
Subscribed! Great video - very detailed and informative. I just ran into an issue yesterday with my 96 GTX at the lake where I would rev super fast, but the exhaust pressure was the only thing moving me. A few searches and I made it here - hoping this will be the fix I need as it seems relatively straightforward. Definitely going to inspect the wear ring as well as these are new to me.
Thanks man. Helps me find parts when I drop them .. and I do all the time lol .. I use purple power and let it slosh around on the trailer returning home
@@oldsalt8011 no, just have to remove the air box. But you want 3000 out of water and 1500 in water. Don't tune or even run out of water. So if you are trying to lower the idle cuz it seems to high on trailer .. mistake. Also if you do change idle you then need to readjust the oil pump and line up those marks.
@@jonparkmac Thanks, I'll try to check for the dumb stuff like a leaking vacuum line and a stuck throttle. Yea, I have to be careful that I don't create more problems. I'll look for those marks on the oil pump just so that I can be wise to them. Thanks again for the reply.
I'm finding this to very difficult, is there anything i need to know that would make this easier. I cant get the prop off of the back (the part with the prop) took all 4 bolts off and detached all the small hoses and still cant get the unit off to get to the drive shaft... help
Great video - I have a 96 GTX and I rebuilt the carbs, replaced all fuel lines, new fuel selector, cleaned and rebuilt RAVE valves, but now I can only seem to get to about 3500/4000 RPMs and can't get above a very slow cruising speed (20km/h). My next step is to pull the pump, replace the wear ring and perform this service you show in your video. What are the odds this corrects my issue?
If the motor doesn't rev past that, then it's not the wear ring or pump. If it does, the it's wear ring or cavitation ..or worst case stripped drive shaft splines. Try disconnecting the rectifier ..they sometimes interfere with ignition.
Great video and detailed explanation. I have a new to me Seadoo Challenger with single engine. Engine starts and runs great. My issue is the boat won't plane. I have replaced the wear ring and oil in pump. Impeller secured nicely and tightened pump to hull after a few in and outs in water. The outcome is boat still didn't plane. Can't seem to get past 10mph running really 7-8k rpms. Every now and then it'll plane and take off. Was told maybe a carbon ring issue. Would going through this rebuild process fix my issue?
I am getting water into my hull, about 2-3" in 24 hours if the seadoo is just sitting in the water. I didn't think it was coming in from where the carbon seal meets the metal disc (support ring I think it is called). There is no water dripping where these 2 surfaces meet. It appears to be coming in at the thru hull. Is this common, and any suggestions on how to replace the thru hull? or am I missing something?? Thanks for the excellent video.
They can leak around the thru hull fitting. There's a repair kit for it. I've not done this there, but if you clean it real good with acetone and apply thin layer of 3M 5200 it may stop it for a season or so. Check the back bolts where the shoe mounts to the stern. There's also bolts that come up from the grate. Those can leak
Can carbon seal cause you to loose top end speed? Reason I’m asking my top end speed is 48 mph with 7200 rpms. I should be able to hit 55 to 60 mph with my seadoo gtx 155 but hard stop at 48 mph
Yes it can if it's a weak seal. The pump can suck air thru the seal and cause cavitation. Other thing to check is a tight wear ring ..tolerance should be 1 mm or less for max performance
Great video explaining it. I was wondering how or where the water stops before entering the hull and now I know it comes into the actual rubber bellows boot and stops where the carbon seal contacts the metal collar and also the two orings inside the metal collar. Pretty vulnerable setup! Those two cheap hose clamps on that eubber bellows are very important!😊
It's quite reliable actually. That's why seadoo used it for many years. The other option is a sealed carrier bearing, which is also good ..but can tear out the thru-hull fitting if the bearing seizes. Those aren't cheap clamps, they're thicker stainless steel from factory
You mean the oetiker OEM clamps. Not good to reuse as they are usually damaged on removal. Use new ones if you have them, need clamp tool. in this case zip ties fine, and common.
@@jonparkmac oh didn't know this was a 2 stroke. I assumed it's 4 and that's what i was asking for. I need to do this repair and seen on another video that Sea Doo recommends removing the oil
I mostly use oetiker where it matters. In that spot zip tie is commonly used .. but yeah SS ear clamps always good. Just never use a metal worm drive clamp there
A new one will last a long time. Supposed to check every 100 hours. People burn them down running the ski out of water and shorten the life. Keep it wet and grease the pto zerk
I ordered from Amazon, but OSD marine has oem ones. This is working good for me. www.amazon.com/dp/B0713RZRLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_25YCRMFFMV7X1CF7MJQY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@jonparkmac Are you still happy with that kit? I ordered the same but unfortunately carbon seal came in with a knick in it. Debating returning and buying a different kit, or just having it replaced.
Need to replace or ski will sink. Check by feeling the pressure with your hand .. should be little snug and not loose or too tight. Check hull often for water
Wouldn’t be nice if seadoo would utilise the same tech as Yamaha and Kawasaki and use a bearing instead of a carbon seal, Did you know? FACT; seadoo used to use a bearing and a stainless steel ware ring pre 1996 They quickly found out that the flaw with the motor is it only had three motor mounts, therefore highly increasing the risk of engine miss alignment causing the bearing to buckle and seize and the impeller would violently hit the stainless steel wear ring. At the time it would cost seadoo a lot of money to pay rotax to change their design, so instead they decided to make wearable items and charge the customer for the parts. Therefore seadoo makes money on the entire life of the jetski Food for thought Yet people keep buying these things You can’t make this up
@@jonparkmac can you elaborate on this? Kawasaki and Yamaha use bearings and in the 25+ years I’ve been riding I’ve never heard of that happening to these brands, If this was happening to seadoos, then why would people keep buying them, So you are saying people prefer the carbon seal rather than having the issues with the engine mounts fixed and run a bearing like the other two manufacturers without any wear items? I highly doubt it...
It's clear you are bent on bashing the Sea-Doo brand in general. Yes a ton of people buy them and enjoy them .. so you'll have to suck it up and move on
What state is the Westside Marine business app I just tried to Google them there’s one in Arizona I just want to Texas so where did you get the parts at because I have two 1997’s and I never knew that you had to replace those
Great video. I just replaced my seal because your video taught me how to do it. God bless you, Sir!
Glad it helped .. ride on brother
Great video. Well done and articulate. Some steps we missed.
I personally don’t trust plastic zip ties for any length of time unless it’s manufactured recommended or not critical. Like a small engine fuel line to close for comfort. Lol
🔥🔥
School of hard knocks I guess. Live and learn.
Thanks and glad you liked it. Zips are commonly used there but yes a SS ear/oetiker clamp is best and oem. A metal screw clamp is a mistake unless you use two and offset them 180 so they stay in balance.
Subscribed! Great video - very detailed and informative. I just ran into an issue yesterday with my 96 GTX at the lake where I would rev super fast, but the exhaust pressure was the only thing moving me. A few searches and I made it here - hoping this will be the fix I need as it seems relatively straightforward. Definitely going to inspect the wear ring as well as these are new to me.
The carbon ring is only a seal. Your issue sounds like a wear ring. Search "Gray ghost seadoo pump" for my vidi on that
Top video! And have to say, that’s a super clean engine bay 🤙🏻
Thanks man. Helps me find parts when I drop them .. and I do all the time lol .. I use purple power and let it slosh around on the trailer returning home
Great video and thank you for taking the time to explain why it needs replacing
Always happy to hear when my videos help someone
Great informative video, can't wait to get a 2000's GTI going to be my first ski, I work on all my own stuff so the 717 seems like a great engine
It's the most reliable and plenty power for midclass ski. Make sure the oil lines are in good shape and oil in the tank and they'll last a while
The channelocks idea was brilliant. Thank you!
Yep. I cannot take credit for that. Mate on seadoo forum shared that gem
Awesome vid. Did this today. This made it easier. Thank you
Glad it helped brutha .. only reason I do these vids
exellent thank u so much now i feel ready to change my seal
Fantastic Video, Very informative
Thanks for sharing
Excellent video!
Great explanation video.
Thank you!!
Great video
Thanks man, hope this helped.
great video!
Glad it helped
@@jonparkmac is the idle adjustment difficult to get too?
@@oldsalt8011 no, just have to remove the air box. But you want 3000 out of water and 1500 in water. Don't tune or even run out of water. So if you are trying to lower the idle cuz it seems to high on trailer .. mistake. Also if you do change idle you then need to readjust the oil pump and line up those marks.
@@jonparkmac Thanks, I'll try to check for the dumb stuff like a leaking vacuum line and a stuck throttle. Yea, I have to be careful that I don't create more problems. I'll look for those marks on the oil pump just so that I can be wise to them. Thanks again for the reply.
I'm finding this to very difficult, is there anything i need to know that would make this easier. I cant get the prop off of the back (the part with the prop) took all 4 bolts off and detached all the small hoses and still cant get the unit off to get to the drive shaft... help
Take all hoses off. Sometimes they are rtv glued on. Pour gas on to losen it. Tie it to tree and pull it off. Can also use a dent puller
Great video - I have a 96 GTX and I rebuilt the carbs, replaced all fuel lines, new fuel selector, cleaned and rebuilt RAVE valves, but now I can only seem to get to about 3500/4000 RPMs and can't get above a very slow cruising speed (20km/h). My next step is to pull the pump, replace the wear ring and perform this service you show in your video. What are the odds this corrects my issue?
If the motor doesn't rev past that, then it's not the wear ring or pump. If it does, the it's wear ring or cavitation ..or worst case stripped drive shaft splines. Try disconnecting the rectifier ..they sometimes interfere with ignition.
Great video and detailed explanation. I have a new to me Seadoo Challenger with single engine. Engine starts and runs great. My issue is the boat won't plane. I have replaced the wear ring and oil in pump. Impeller secured nicely and tightened pump to hull after a few in and outs in water. The outcome is boat still didn't plane. Can't seem to get past 10mph running really 7-8k rpms. Every now and then it'll plane and take off. Was told maybe a carbon ring issue. Would going through this rebuild process fix my issue?
If carbon seal is too lose it can suck air into the pump and dilute the jet stream
Check out the seal behind the pump, usually there is a foam gasket there
I have a 1994 sea doo xp jet ski, but it works a bit and then it turns on the heater alarm. what will be the problem
I could not say, but join the Seadoo Tech Support fb page and they'll help.
I am getting water into my hull, about 2-3" in 24 hours if the seadoo is just sitting in the water.
I didn't think it was coming in from where the carbon seal meets the metal disc (support ring I think it is called). There is no water dripping where these 2 surfaces meet.
It appears to be coming in at the thru hull. Is this common, and any suggestions on how to replace the thru hull? or am I missing something??
Thanks for the excellent video.
They can leak around the thru hull fitting. There's a repair kit for it. I've not done this there, but if you clean it real good with acetone and apply thin layer of 3M 5200 it may stop it for a season or so. Check the back bolts where the shoe mounts to the stern. There's also bolts that come up from the grate. Those can leak
Can carbon seal cause you to loose top end speed? Reason I’m asking my top end speed is 48 mph with 7200 rpms. I should be able to hit 55 to 60 mph with my seadoo gtx 155 but hard stop at 48 mph
Yes it can if it's a weak seal. The pump can suck air thru the seal and cause cavitation. Other thing to check is a tight wear ring ..tolerance should be 1 mm or less for max performance
Great video explaining it. I was wondering how or where the water stops before entering the hull and now I know it comes into the actual rubber bellows boot and stops where the carbon seal contacts the metal collar and also the two orings inside the metal collar. Pretty vulnerable setup! Those two cheap hose clamps on that eubber bellows are very important!😊
It's quite reliable actually. That's why seadoo used it for many years. The other option is a sealed carrier bearing, which is also good ..but can tear out the thru-hull fitting if the bearing seizes. Those aren't cheap clamps, they're thicker stainless steel from factory
Why did you use a zip tie on that boot? what about the metal clamp that was there? Is it supposed to go back on?
You mean the oetiker OEM clamps. Not good to reuse as they are usually damaged on removal. Use new ones if you have them, need clamp tool. in this case zip ties fine, and common.
@@jonparkmac OK got ya. I'll see if I can find some the right size. Othewise yeah I'll zip tie them
Question....Does the engine oil need to be drained 1st? Thanks
No, there is no engine oil. There is injection oil and oil for the rotary gear. 2 strokes
@@jonparkmac oh didn't know this was a 2 stroke. I assumed it's 4 and that's what i was asking for. I need to do this repair and seen on another video that Sea Doo recommends removing the oil
Good video but I wouldn't have used a cable tie to replace a metal clamp.
I mostly use oetiker where it matters. In that spot zip tie is commonly used .. but yeah SS ear clamps always good. Just never use a metal worm drive clamp there
should that be done whether there are issues after so many hours?
A new one will last a long time. Supposed to check every 100 hours. People burn them down running the ski out of water and shorten the life. Keep it wet and grease the pto zerk
I'm glad i have a Kawi,no carbon seals lol
Is the same process for 2007 gti 155 se?
I think so yes. Check your manual to be sure.
Do you have the link for the parts kit you ordered?
I ordered from Amazon, but OSD marine has oem ones. This is working good for me. www.amazon.com/dp/B0713RZRLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_25YCRMFFMV7X1CF7MJQY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@jonparkmac Are you still happy with that kit? I ordered the same but unfortunately carbon seal came in with a knick in it. Debating returning and buying a different kit, or just having it replaced.
How much should this cost at a dealer ( hours of labor?)
$50 for labor. Better to learn to work on these yourself or you'll turn a $1500 ski into a $4000 money pit
Why replace? When do you know when to change? TIA
Need to replace or ski will sink. Check by feeling the pressure with your hand .. should be little snug and not loose or too tight. Check hull often for water
Great video,where did i buy this kit from?
Osdmarine
How long did this take an hour?
Yeah, bout an hour and lot less if you've done it before and have all your tools/parts handy.
Where did u buy the kit from?
OSD marine
were can i order the parts?
OSD marine
Grrr… you didn’t show the pulling back of the seal and getting C clip out…
Look at the end, I show you
Yeah, I seen that, I wanted to see the part where the old one wouldn't come out and all the tools got thrown and the jetski got flipped 🤣
Lol .. that was me taking the exhaust off my 4tech.
has a small water leak
Wouldn’t be nice if seadoo would utilise the same tech as Yamaha and Kawasaki and use a bearing instead of a carbon seal,
Did you know?
FACT; seadoo used to use a bearing and a stainless steel ware ring pre 1996
They quickly found out that the flaw with the motor is it only had three motor mounts, therefore highly increasing the risk of engine miss alignment causing the bearing to buckle and seize and the impeller would violently hit the stainless steel wear ring.
At the time it would cost seadoo a lot of money to pay rotax to change their design, so instead they decided to make wearable items and charge the customer for the parts. Therefore seadoo makes money on the entire life of the jetski
Food for thought
Yet people keep buying these things
You can’t make this up
I've heard similar story. When the bearings seize they tear out the thru hull fitting. That's why some prefer the carbon anyway.
@@jonparkmac can you elaborate on this?
Kawasaki and Yamaha use bearings and in the 25+ years I’ve been riding I’ve never heard of that happening to these brands,
If this was happening to seadoos, then why would people keep buying them,
So you are saying people prefer the carbon seal rather than having the issues with the engine mounts fixed and run a bearing like the other two manufacturers without any wear items?
I highly doubt it...
It's clear you are bent on bashing the Sea-Doo brand in general. Yes a ton of people buy them and enjoy them .. so you'll have to suck it up and move on
What state is the Westside Marine business app I just tried to Google them there’s one in Arizona I just want to Texas so where did you get the parts at because I have two 1997’s and I never knew that you had to replace those
Find me on Facebook and IM me. I'll take care of ya 💪💪
I need to know what your Facebook picture looks like
@@expatconn7242 facebook.com/jonathan.mcclure.9?mibextid=ZbWKwL
Also OSD Marine is a very good source for parts .. and you should join the Seadoo 2-stroke tech support FB group as well ..a lot of help there
Quite a lot of your name on fb. What is your fb pic of ..
Bees. Side hobby beekeeping that's dwindling. Now it's chainsaws 🤠