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Actually you should take pictures anyway .. regardless of making a DIY video. Also, if you are making a DIY video... then you already have a digital record to refer back too and usually don't need pictures 😉. But yes it's a great point, I do it one way other the other .. especially on intricate projects like carburetors and chainsaws. Thanks for the comment!

If they're anything like the seadoos, then it likely just needs fuel hoses etc replaced and carbs rebuilt. That's pretty standard procedure on these old skis when you first get them. Check compression too. It's one of those two issues.

No, not normally. There's two vts connectors you can unplug. One is a 2 wire, the other is 6. Disconnect both and see if the ski runs

Did this fix your ski?

No sir. But you can send them to a friend of mine @ 2stroke Carb Rebuilding. He's very talented and will do a perfect job for you. youtube.com/@2-smoke?si=YfamZGuGd3XOue2N

Oregon 33053 Oregon 33-053 Ignition Parts, Black/Grey a.co/d/0aBPk7Zi.

@@jonparkmac thank you very much.

Content de t'avoir aidé.

Wow! Original owner on the best engine! That's cool. Ok so the carb doesn't have oil lines actually, but there ARE oil injection lines underneath. Yours are likely black. Definitely need to replace those ..and the oil filter too. Use plastic screen filter and not the cheap paper ones. Use tygon lines for the small oil injection lines. There is a procedure for priming and bleeding the oil injection system. Check out OSD Marine for these parts and kits. Owner is a good dude and well known/trusted. You can download the shop manual and parts manual online for free. There's also a carb chart for all those settings. About to send you some links ..

Check here for parts first .. osdparts.com/

Manuals (very important) seadoomanuals.net/

Oil filter Wsm 006-546 Oil Filter a.co/d/0g5B5sV3

Carb chart www.seadoosource.com/carbreference.html

Try it one way and if it doesn't work ..try the other way. Most of the time it will be negative ground.

@@jonparkmac sounds like a plan to me.

Tilt the ski up a little in the front and spray water under the engine on the hull. Then check the bilge area for the bearing. Use a magnet to fish around there and see if you can locate. If you can't find it ..it's a gamble to run the engine. You could take the bottom end apart anyway and at least replace outter seals and inspect crank bearings. It's not much more work ..just a lot of bolts is all. I have a video on that too

Thanks for the quick response. I really do appreciate the help and the video series.

Happy to help any time.

You sure can. Put some Walmart or kitchen trashcan bags over the electrical box and engine and just be careful where you spray. Let the cleaner do the work.

Well damn, that sux. I made a tap out of a spare nut and it worked really well to clean out rtv sealant. A steel tap may have been too sharp for the plastic. Sorry man, I've done worse.

@@jonparkmac there is hope... I got JB weld plastic weld crap, coated the inside threads and my aluminum nut, used Hornady One Shot as a release agent (it's a Lube for reloading ammo)... Let it cure 30 minutes and slowly backed the nut out. It appears I have usable threads now... Gonna let it cure fully before effing with it but I remain hopeful haha

The cleats are not grabbing and may be in backwards. Need the inside of the hub to be clean and a little rough ..no oil or grease

@jonparkmac cleats seem to be in right way,don't really stick out enough to catch anything,hub seems rough enough but I can catch my fingernail on the wear scar of the hub.

No, a bad coil would run erratic or not at all. If you motor takes a long time to start it's starving for fuel. Use the choke or accelerator pump. I often pour a little gas in the spark holes to save wear and tear on the starter and flywheel. Better than cranking a long rime

@@jonparkmac thank you so much my friend 🙏🙏🙏

Not on the single coil. Both high intensity wires from coil secondary discharge at the same time. It's called wasteful spark since only one of the two wires is sparking when a piston is TDC. Iow, you can swap coil wires with cylinders and it won't matter

eBay but Westside power sports may have too

Yeah, the soft one will dance around and cause cavitation due to the weak tension. If the original one is in good shape ..reuse. there's trick to make it just a tick tighter.

@@jonparkmac what’s the trick ? And the old one seems to be in fine condition so may just re use it.

You can move the bellows forward about 1/4 " and reclamp on the thru hull fitting. Can also put a zip tie between ribs and give it more tension. But if it's even a little a snug it's fine.

Hell yeah. Enjoy the journey.

I approached a little different. I have xp limited. The engine is still in place. So I put the ring on pistons then put pistons inside cylinders. All I had to do is slide the wrist pin thru piston into rod and clamp it. I tried your way but it was not working well for me.

Smaller vent and return is 1/4. Input is all 5/16" for the hoses from tank to carb. The smaller ones for the accel pump or primer I'm not sure, I reused my OEM ones. Use tygon there, you can get a multi size pack from amazon

never mind, I had to just watch more of the video. nice job

Lol all good brutha. Yeah I did that and I agree about the anti vibration ..that is my understanding too. Some say they are seals but that doesn't make sense. Although I can see the benefit of not letting water down in there to corrode

Here is the one I use. Install Essentials 451M Dooor... www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SZHR4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

What year/model? There is usually a 15a fuse in the rear electrical box. It feeds power to the mpem from battery thro a red-purple wire. Check that fuse and polish up all of those connections in there. Also check your ground connection to motor.

@@jonparkmac 1997 gti . well i made an opening in the case and checked the diode just like you did and its fine. i checked the ground all fuses, still nothing. im stumped

Check that you get 12v on the red/purple up to the mpem. You can pull the plug and look in the manual for which pin to test. If you can't get a read there then something between that pin and the battery * post is not conducting

@@jonparkmac i checked for 12v and good ground. i think its a bad MPEM. no 5v fuse blowing but everything checks out otheer then the MPEM. i could get it checked but it $45 plus shipping. and a fix is over $400

Sounds like it's hosed. Sorry man, that's painful. You can source a used good one. Try Westside power sports.

Right on! Love to hear it.

Hey buddy. There is a parts manual separate from the shop manual. That has all those size and part number details. Search Seadoo manuals on Google and you will see. I personally spend more time in those parts manuals than than the shop manual. Let me know if you need help

That's a good question. This house was built in 1995 and the inspections were poorly done or not done at all. For instance, the perimeter foundation drain pipe connected back to itself forming a closed ring. Smh

I would change them. If they are the black original ones for the smaller lines, it's a must do. They get brittle and crack #1 reason for injection failure. I've not worked on a 3D but the hard part is removing the small lines and getting tiny ear clamps off. A pair of diagonal wire cutters will do it. You'll want to be gentle with those tiny nipples ..they can break. I accidentally squeezed one shut one time 😂. OSD Marine sells the hose and you can use zip ties. I use ss ear clamps where possible, but zips will work. You'll want to bleed the big line and prime the small lines. You can't run premix so it's critical they get primed. Sounds like a lot but it's not bad.

@@jonparkmac Appreciate it! I will bump it up on my priority to do list. Follow-up question...are there 3 lines coming on the output side of the pump? I think there are two thin lines going to each side of the rotary valve and then a thicker one that feeds the counterbalance. But I am not too sure.

The oil injection small lines go to each intake manifold channel. If you have a 3rd small line it goes to a compressor ..but I thought that was only on a DI. The CB is not fed from the pump as it gets it's oil from the mix south of the manifold. If you have 3 lines total, then two smalls are injection and large is the oil feed to the pump from the tank.

Thanks for your professional and objective opinion. I agree with what you've said. You can surely snake this and it also flushes strong after 3 years and daily use, never a clog. Code violation was present already because the original plumbing had a vent 90. That said I support your opinion and thanks for commenting.

Lol I'm pretty accident prone like that. I try to wear gloves more often when working on stuff

OSD marine

Glad these help. Comment on what you need ..happy to do what I can to help.

I wish I could give you a solid answer my friend but I'm not familiar with those differences. On this motor there's a standard orientation of the cup holes and risers so I didn't even think about piston timing. Have you looked in the online manual? I usually do that first. If it's not in there, join the FB group called Seadoo 951 Owners. Lot of good fellas in there.

Those are for anti rattle from what I understand. They don't seal out water from the engine since the channels should be sealed anyway. That said if water does get in there .. it will rust and corrode up the studs down where they screw into the case

I try to keep my videos short yet with accurate details. It's hard to find a balance.

Well you nailed it. My replacement speakers came today, it was an older Samsung plasma, but the install was pretty much the same and it's now working.

Actually no, nothing touches the top of that seal. That's why they provide that plastic tool. It's not for oil, it's to keep water from spraying up into the upper unit and of course keeps pressure up. It's not supposed press down onto the housing very tight. I see people leave the plastic tool in there thinking it's a part lol

It's broken in and runs. But having trouble tunning it. When it does open up its like a rocket. I have a gremlin in it somewhere. I've started on 96 GSX now. I'll return back to the GG this fall

Glad to help

All good, never clogs. After 4 years not a single issue.

That's true. And premix on these models is not a good idea anyway.