The Road To THE CLEAVER (5.13b) - Moab's Brutal New Offwidth
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- This is the story of my journey to send The Cleaver; a brutal 5.13 offwidth roof in Moab. There were ups, downs, and plenty of challenges. Hopefully, it'll inspire you to get out and try something that pushes your limits.
Chapters:
00:00 - Opening scene
00:37 - Intro/Background
02:09 - Mary’s experience with The Cleaver
03:10 - First ascent with Sam Foreman
03:26 - Think Tank Rotation 180 50L+
04:00 - Arriving at The Cleaver
04:20 - Getting ready for the 1st try
05:12 - Sam Macllwaine
06:13 - Offwidth’s Greatest Nightmare
07:25 - Tom Randall’s cam slip
08:33 - Pitch 1
11:18 - Pitch 2 (Evan)
13:24 - Pitch 2 (Sam)
19:09 - “Rest days” (Ancient Art and Exit Wound)
21:21 - Hero helpers
23:04 - Pitch 2, 2nd session
27:40 - Pitch 2, 3rd session
My adventure-based camera bags of choice:
- ThinkTank, MindShift Rotation180 50L+ www.thinktankphoto.com/produc...
- ThinkTank, PressPass Sling. www.thinktankphoto.com/produc...
A note about the bolt:
After my first attempt on the line, I top roped to clean the gear, and to rehearse the moves more. Once on the ground, I realized that I had cut my rope about 25% through on one of my falls! A year later, I decided a bolt in this strategic location would prevent the rope from going over the roof's edge in a sharp angle. This worked well, but the bolt was difficult to clip on lead, so we just clipped it for cleaning on TR. We now have a different way of placing the gear, where the rope avoids the sharp edge of the crack and we can safely clean on the way down, so the bolt is no longer necessary. I plan on removing the bolt and patching the hole when I have the proper epoxy putty where the filled hole will be invisible. Maybe I'll get that done when I head up there to belay YOU!
Psyched Evan. Thanks for finding, sharing and climbing. An absolute classic 💪
I’m so stoked that you all enjoyed it. What a journey. :)
Loved the, "clip clock" 😂😂
Climbers never cease to amaze me thank you for an insightful climb
Boy do I love watching OW vids, and this one is great. As someone who has climbed multiple times a week for more than a decade, sport and boulder, it's like watching something totally foreign. So impressive.
What a beautiful climb and such a stoke-full story. The editing and videography is top tier too. Thanks for taking the time to share your journey!
Wow, thank you for your very kind words. 🥰
That was wicked! thank you.
EPIC film Evan!! Such a great watch!! Congrats!
Thank you :)))
absolutely mental route. Congrats dude!!
Congratulations. That's such an awesome route
Great film! looks like a mean bit of climbing!
Great work on the video and the route as well! Absolutely insane
Thank you for pointing out the audio glitch when I first posted. I couldn’t find a way to message you to thank you, so I’m glad you commented here. It’s crazy how hard the video editing is. I was heartbroken when I didn’t catch it had glitched on the export. Thanks again
@@EvanWisheropp I was worried it would be gone after you took the first version down but I'm glad you were able to fix it! Really appreciate the reply as well, thank you
Respect! Excellent climb!
Nice work there, sir.
Awesome video! 😃
what is honestly good with same brahjjj like god damn
Awesome! I wish i'd climb as good as a girl
Sick video! Love Moab, amazing shots and edit Evan!
Appreciate it! Moab is so very special. 😍
nice
Great film!
the invert looks like extremely aggressive sitting down
How the hell does Evan not drop his glasses????????????????
I DO NOT KNOW lol
Bravo 👌
Yeahhhh 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Genuine curiosity question: pitch 1 has a bolt, but below that they were placing gear in the section that seemed pretty brutal, why not add bolts there?
For the most part, we try to avoid placing bolts where gear placements are available. There is one bolt on the route, but it was placed there more for directing the rope around a sharp edge. Though we found alternate methods and that bolt will likely be removed.
@@EvanWisheropp Thanks for the info Evan. Still learning about the world of trad climbing!
We need a rad new design for offwidth pro. Not based on the current concept of curved blades, that can slip on smooth rock.
🥲
spectrum activities
Go to the CIRCUS... will make more views and money. Have you guys heard of a ... CLIMBING LADDER ?!
i wish the climers would Not leave their hardware in the rock when they leave! specially when setting a line of bolts via lowering themselves from above- on a "route" that no one could ever climb- its essentially litter.
The more I watch people crack climb the less I want to try it.