I just got done doing my 2014 JK using this video as my guide. Worth mentioning, I’m a 40 year old woman with zero car maintenance abilities beyond refilling my windshield washer fluid. But I was not about to spend the dealer-quoted $1800 for a $95 part. It took me about 2.5 hours and the hardest part was getting that vent snapped back into place. In fact, I left it for the night so any tips are greatly appreciated for when I attempt to put it back in. Anyway, thanks for this video and saving me a boatload of cash.
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (posted up on my channel) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
So you guys saved me 1400 bucks, for real. This works!!! Only thing I would add, flush the heater core with air from under the hood, then no mess in the cabin. If you guys are ever in Allentown, PA, I'M BUYING!!!!! THANKS AGAIN BROTHERS!!!
WoW it worked !!! Shop quoted me 1100$. Thank goodness I came across this video. 150$ all in. Watch the video a few times and it works perfectly. Thank you.
My heater core popped and blew all myvcoolant onto my floor board this morning. Got the new heater core from autozone and found this video right after. Plunge tool worked like a dream. This video saved me about 3-4 hours of work!
I just replaced my 07 jk heater core following your video. 👌🏽I took me two hours taking slow and easy. Thank you I think if I paid someone it would have cost more than my jeep lol
After months of putting this off and not using the Jeep because I didn’t wanna pull the dash this worked perfect and took less then a hour thanks for a great how to
Just finished following the video and completed my heater core replacement. The layout on my 2011 wrangler was slightly different than the video but very similar, and easy to adjust fire. Thanks guys, you saved me $900 where the shop said it would be approx $1000 (parts and labor) for them to do it.
Awesome video. I was up in Washington, about 200 miles from home on vacation when I found my passenger floor pan full of coolant just as I was packing up to head home. Replenished the lost coolant with distilled water for the drive home, and made it home without overheating, but the system was pretty dry by the time I got home. Heading to pick up a new heater coil now, and will be doing the repair this afternoon. Thanks for the tutorial guys. Wish me luck.
Just completed the job on my 2010 as per your video, right before temps in Canada dips below -10 degrees. Thanks a million, I was losing sleep over the "stealership's" quote of $2000. Cost me less than 200 including purchasing the Oscillating Multi-Tools and less than 2 hrs to complete. I did not have to take the door out, just removed the strap and swing it open all the way near the fender. I also used thin rubber tape in between the cut frames and added aluminum duct tape to hold tie the ends of the cut frame and eliminate noise. The heat coming from all vents is super hot and even. Thanks again!
Wow, I just completed this job. Took me around nine hours because I went slowly and took breaks. I also had to fabricate bracket supports to bridge the dash frame where I cut it. Used a pop rivet gun and/or sheet metal screws and small aluminum plates to fasten them. At the one closest to the center console I used JB Weld putty because it was just too hard to get too. I also used JB weld putty to strengthen and help seal the tubes coming out of the heater core where they connect. I referred to this video a lot as I went along, thanks guys for making it so detailed with good camera angles. When I cut the heater tubes I put down a lot of paper towels and that soaked up a lot of the coolant. Not that much came out but enough to soak big wads of paper towels. The oscillating tool was wonderful. That is the first time I have used one and bought it specifically for this work. It cut through the pot metal frame easily. Also it make short work of the tubes. At first I used heater hose that was too long to connect the tubes. They do not need to be that long. Just enough to get the clamps on properly. Putting it all back together was not too bad and I was left with one big screw. Had to refer back to this video to see where it went. The dash frame is now solid and firm after using the brackets. I did not take the door off, just unhooked the strap and disconnected the electrical wire and then just put the door back as far as it would go. I also did not remove the front seat. I did cut my hands a bit so have some liquid bandage on hand. I am also pretty stiff and sore as i have arthritis and i am older. I added a bit of coolant to the overflow tank and will check levels tomorrow. I tested the heater and it appears to be blowing hot air out the drivers side again. If and when I need to do this again, it should be much easier the second time around. Very happy! Saved me a ton of money and inconvenience. Thanks again guys.
Thanks fellas. Took me a couple hours to do mine. I made up a couple little patch pieces and bolted the cut extruded aluminum bracket back together before putting the dash parts back on. Should've taken a couple photos, but didn't. Also you didn't specify what was in the glass. I found a 12 year old single malt scotch did the trick. Really appreciated this and you saved me $600-$700. If you're ever in Phoenix, I've got a bottle of Glenfiddich with your name on it.
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. I was able to complete the repair in a few hours. Toughest part was getting the 5/8 rubber hose on. Thanks again.
All I can say is WOW. I watched your video and it worked awesome. I had a hard time having to pay the shop over $800.00 for the heater core replacement. I was done in under 2 hours. I was little worried about the dash area not being solid once it was cut. Just as good as it was before. No vibration noises and still sturdy. I even bought the multi purpose tool. $90 heater core $80.00 multi purpose tool and I still saved over $600.00. Can’t thank you enough.
What a great hack! Didn’t need to take off the door for mine either and I don’t have a removable bottom panel. I was able to pull back the dash with a bungee cord attached to the bar on the bottom of the seat that pushes it back and forward. This fix saved me a lot of money and it was nice to finally have that volcano heat again🔥. Still going to replace the radiator and I replaced the thermostat and heat door actuator just in case too. For others doing this make sure you bleed the air out of your system, it might take a little driving to get whatever air bubbles out. I also poured coolant directly into the inlet heater core hose, reattached it, and then started it up. I didn’t have heat until I did this and drove around a bit. Monitor your temperature gauge to make sure you don’t overheat. Thanks again for taking the time to explain this fix!
God bless you guys for posting this i dont know how you figured out to do a heater core this way but you are amazing , that said i changed my heater core in my wrangler 4 times in the last two years, i finally went with a dealer heater core rather than AM one, i found that they started leaking at the joint or elbow , the only thing i could figure out that was causing it was my tubes out of the firewall were too long and they would cause movement and pressure on the core hoses, next time i will cut them shorter then add more rad hose, but i will buy more flexible hose that way it will allow for movement and less pressure on the elbow joint. thanks again for posting i hope in some small way my post helps out anyone else
Just another person saying thanks for the easy to follow video. There were a couple differences for my 2012 jk but this was clear enough I was able to get it done
Thank you so much for this video. This just saved me 1200. I know nothing about cars and was able to perform this on my 2011 Jeep Wrangler with no problem. Heat back on both sides. Thank you
I just used your video and saved myself $2k. You're a freaking hero bud. The only thing I wish I would've done different, is I should've put the foot vent tube back before putting the dash back together. But either way, pretty straight forward.
Thanks man! Great video. Watched it a few times and then swapped out my heater core the other night after work and all is good now with no leaks. You saved me a lot of time and money. Appreciate it. Cheers! 🥃
I just wanted to say thank you to these 2 heroes. This video saved me about $1k (dealer wanted $1,800!) and I did it myself in about 3 hours. Would have been faster if I had bought the right sized hose clamps LOL. One note... I drive a '13 JKU so the dash is a little different. There is no bottom panel to take off and there are only 3 screws holding it on. The rest is spot on. I bought my JKU used and didn't realize how bad the heater core was until I replaced it! Thanks again guys.
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
I was hesitant to do this but saving $1500 bucks plus your detailed video was great motivation. Replaced the core yesterday and it worked perfectly! Using the vibrating saw was a great idea, I don’t regret spending $100 on it, I guess it saved me hours of work and was very safe. The hardest part for me was installing the hoses to install the heat core, I felt I was going to break the new core but I managed to get it done! Again, thanks for the video!
Make sure and replace the radiator as well if you are in a 2012+. They notorious for having too much casting sand from factory and clogging up the radiator as well. I just did the whole thing on video as well, using this same method and I have plenty of heat too!
I followed the directions on my Jeep. I had three bolts less on a 2012, plus it doesn't have that panel under the glove box. Anyway, after watching this video and with the same tools, you used, 1 hour fix easily. Thank you for this video!
Thanks for the video. it worked just like you showed. the only thing I added was a drop of dish soap on the end of rubber hose so they slipped on easer.
Bought my 2009 Wrangler back in Febuary of this year knowing the heater didn't work. (Down here in the South, Wranglers are EVERYWHERE, but everyone wants big money for them. So we just went with this one.) Only had to drive it about a month if that before warmer weather kicked in, so I never got around to fixing the heater core. Now it's DEC and it's been dropping down into the 20s and 30s and I haven't drove the Jeep in about 3 weeks now. I've seen a few videos like this before, but I believe today is the day I actually get to it. Thanks for the video and heres to hoping everything turns out great.
I've now done this on mine and my Fiancé's Jeep... Took me longer to track down my 7mm socket then to do the actual repair... Works Great! Excellent Instruction! .... Only thing I would add is to remove the heater hose at the thermostat housing and blow air through the old heater core to remove the fluid. Didn't get a single drip when working on the inside.
I recently bought a 2008 JKU and my heater core is leaking.... not enough to notice any significant coolant loss but you smell it when you turn it on, I was dreading doing the job until I saw this video, Then I was way less dreading the job until I saw behind the dash to realize someone else already replaced the existing core using this method LOL so my job went from Dread, to relief, to super simple..... And for all the "OH my god you ruined the vehicle" posts.... I am not mad my used Jeep had this hack, I am nothing but happy as it just saved me time cutting etc.... I will however replace the patch hoses while in there as it just makes sense for a couple bucks.... And that also affirms that the rubber hose outlasted the heater core after this mod.... Again reinforcing that all the negativity in doing this mod is just idiots who paid the $1400 and found this video after... Also the bracket that was cut was not connected back together by anything but the bolts to components and there is no movement, breakage or damage in the time this heater core lasted.... I am pretty sure it was 5 years since I found a receipt for the heater core in the glove box dated Nov 2016 which included 1' 5/8" heater hose and 4 worm clamps. This may be a good post to pin for those wondering about the after effects..... That bracket is just an inner shell to hold the dash components and if anything is designed to crumple to help absorb impact... there are 5 other structural layers before it gets to that in an accident... If anything it may possibly help, way too many variables to say for sure. But it sure as heck isn't weakening the vehicle..... At the very most I could see a little cracking of the plastic on the dash after a decade of vibrations etc if you dont re-connect the piece. I won't be re-connecting it... My heater core can now be changed in under an hour start to finish including sitting waiting for it to bleed out air running. All you nay sayers go ahead and do it your way... I am not going on your videos saying YOU ARE A FOOL YOUR KIDS ARE GOING TO NOT BE ABLE TO GO TO COLLEGE becuase you spent that money on heater core instead of the easy way...... So let us have our opinions without bashing.
Normally we do not do things like this, we take things apart correctly. however that being said, the right way is so completely unreasonable. This saved us tons and tons of time, and we didn't have to disturb a bunch of other things that we could have broken in the process. Thanks for showing me this. save me a bunch of time and one of my customers a bunch of money. I doubt they'll be buying another Chrysler product.
Yup, just did mine. Took abt 2 hrs. That's with taking a break or two . Worst part is sliding hose on. I used aftermarket replacement part so it wasn't quite exact. Minimal coolant loss in the cab area. I had a contractor bag to catch everything. No leaks, im going to put dash back together. Thanks for the video
Just completed this on my 2013 this worked great. I have tried everything flushing the radiator replaced thermostat nothing worked had heat on passenger side but not drivers side did this in about a hour easy to do and have hot heat on both sides, Thanks guys saved me a ton of money over the dealership or doing it myself and didn’t have to take my whole Jeep apart to get it done.
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (on my channel if you are curious to see) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
Project was put off for a bit. Got around to doing this yesterday and it went super smooth. and...... WE HAVE HEAT! Great write up on the forum and following up with a video. Making my life a whole lot easier.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Followed your video and now have heat on drivers side in my 2013 JK. $55 for the new heater core on Amazon! You guys are awesome!
If the heat starts to diminish again, you may have excess casting sand still in your system coming from the radiator. Just as a heads up. he 2012+ were notorious for it. Casting sand was not removed from the engine from factory as well as it should have been. So it collects in the radiator and heater cores. I just did a video on replacing the entire system and poured so much sand out of the system, it was ridiculous.
I just finished this last night. Went well, in all 3hr. I went a step further and fitted the frame back in with plates. Easy enough with a drill and some self threading flanged bolts.
When changing this heater core make sure you use red 3 ply heater hose 5/8 in diameter if not you'll be redoing it. Along with four hose clamps obviously. Be careful with your lines they break easily if you get them hung up on something, as a friend of mine did. You will need a lubricant to put the hose on the lines, personally I used radiator fluid you would be surprised how slippery that is. If you use a 3/4 open end wrench it makes it easier to push the hose onto the pipe. Good luck, it works great. Thank you guys for the great video.
I just completed this on my 2012. I was on the fence about doing this for two reasons. 1) I thought the dash cage was structurally important and 2) I didn't know if I had the skills. Your video made this repair so easy. The dash is different in the 2012, but same principles apply. Couldn't believe how weak and lightweight the aluminum dash cage is. Once I had it off I had no doubt that it's only purpose is to hold the glovebox area in place. Cost me about $69.00 and 2.5 hours. It will be less than an hour for future swaps. I now cant even hold my hand in front of my heater. Beats the $1600 the dealership wanted. Thanks again!
Adam Cox. Did you have any problems months after doing this, and is heater still hot? I need to do mine in my 2013 Wrangler. I'm starting to smell antifreeze when heat is on and heat gets cooler as you go across the front dash.
@@jameskey7290 If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (posted up on my channel) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
Before winter sets in here in Massachusetts I decided what the hell let's try this since I had horrible heat in my jeep jk , especially the drivers side, my girl would put a blanket on usually. So I followed your directions, worked great. The spots I cut I used JB weld and let set over night, just to assure myself of no noises. I cut the frame with a small milwaukee 2420-20 hacksall and the heater core with a milwaukee oscillating tool. Mayne with screw off time it took me 2 1/2 hours or so. No hickups worked great
@@kennethcrocker1678 I left the radiator cap on, and pulled the front passenger carpet up. It leaked a bit when i cut it but nothing really. have a couple rags handy.
@@kennethcrocker1678 I personally would drain the coolant as a precaution but it is not entirely needed. I did not get much coolant out of my system when I did mine. But then again, I did also replace the entire radiator as well. Which, if you have a 2012+, the pentastar engines were notorious for having casting sand stuck inside the cooling system and it is recommended to replace the radiator at the same time. If you are curious on that process, i have that the video posted to include the radiator replacement.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!! Just replaced my heater core and would NOT have attempted it without seeing this video! The core only cost me $90 at O'Reilly's and three or four hours of my time! Did I say 'Thank You'?????
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
I would have the heater core pointing UP when you cut the lines to splice into the old lines. That way no metal chips get into the core. Do the same when deburring the tubes.
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (posted up on my channel) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
Just got done doing this and it worked great. I just clamped the two hoses under the hood and only lost about 2 cups of coolant. The main thing I have to add in these comments that hasn't been addressed is that I used a bucket liner for one of those mini roller paint buckets. The liner is rounded on 3 sides but one side is sloped and if you put the sloped side under the heater core before cutting the core pipes then the slope of the bucket liner is great for getting under there to catch coolant. Didn't spill a drop.
Thank you guys for the recommendation! Worked on my 2013 JKU Rubicon. For others, I didn’t drain my system, I pinched it off at the hose in the engine bay right before the fire wall. Only lost about a cup of fluid. Definitely lay some plastic to catch the fluid as you cut the lines and push it up behind the lines as well to catch splatter. After burping the air and filling with fluid again it had hot heat again. Way to save me $1600
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (posted up on my channel) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
What does burping the air mean? I think I’m about to do this repair myself because I don’t want to spend the money on the mechanic doing it. Thanks for any help you can give
Just want to say how thankful I am that I found this video. I have a 2008 that I picked up used in 2010. Ever since I’ve had it the heat as never been that great. After researching that the dash has to come out and it was something I was not willing to tackle. For the past yr it got to a point that it was not cutting it enough anymore. Found this video and as of today I love having my heater work correctly. As for the gentleman that said you didn’t have to cut anything. Just remove some hardware. Well that wasn’t possible since the area was made from one piece. Thanks again
If the heater core does not work again, I would suggest replacing the heater core once again but also replace the radiator at the same time. The 2012+ is notorious for an issue with the pentastar casting sand from the factory clogging up the system really bad. I did a video on how to replace the radiator as well.
Took me about three hours today but that included cleaning up all the coolant from the passenger side carpet (thankfully dad has an carpet extractor). Great time and $$$ saver. The dealer had quoted me about $1,500 in labor by the way.
Make sure and replace the radiator as well if you are in a 2012+. They notorious for having too much casting sand from factory and clogging up the radiator as well. I just did the whole thing on video as well, using this same method and I have plenty of heat too!
Just did mine this weekend. I disconnected the lines in the engine compartment and blew out the old coolant from the old heater core so there's no spilling inside when I cut the pipes.
Goody, that looks fun! Going to be extra fun considering that I have an aftermarket roll cage blocking the removal of that side piece.. I'll have to drop my windshield and totally disassemble the cage before I could begin. Or maybe I'll get lucky and find a way to pop the front piece off without removing the side piece.
Wow! You guys did an excellent job and your video is as excellent as your work! The videographer the details the explanation wow!! Looks like you already have been there done that. I have cars from the 60’s with the oem core. These new rigs get one every few years WTF. THANK YOU!!!
Just did this to my 2013 JK this morning was done in 2 hours. Be really careful when cutting the heater core tubes you will spill close to a gallon of coolant. I put a tub on the floor and used a piece of plastic to direct the coolant into the tub. Had very little leakage onto the carpet.
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
Didn't have heat last winter, so I didn't drive it much. It's getting cold outside again and no surprise but the problem didn't go away on it's own. Back flushed a couple days ago and it made no difference. Temp gun showed 191 on the in hose and only 101 on the out. Guess I will be doing this over the weekend. (Shop wanted 6 hours labor)
Great video guys! ... since you've topped up the coolant level in the video .. . how much coolant should one expect to come pouring out if those heater core pipes ?
I drained the system when I did mine. I had to replace the radiator as well, due to the dreaded casting sand issue with the 2012+ engines. (video up onmy channel if intrested) I only got maybe a cup of coolant out of the piping after I cut. And the heater core I just removed with out tipping it and pouring out the coolant.
Thx for the info but I’m curious why you’re having to replace the heater core again ? I didn’t expect the repair to already have been done! Any advice on which core to stay away from ??
Well I can't do it by myself but, I have heat. My drivers side floor board is wet. It keeps smelling hot but its not? Could the heater core be my problem?
Having to cut the factory bracket to get the heater core out...🤦♂️That is some great engineering. 🤪 Engineers don't need need to engineer how to replace parts.....
You use 5/8ths inside diameter hose. I just did this same for my 2012 jeep. Had the casting sand issue causing it to clog up, including the radiator. I did the video on the entire process to include the radiator
Great cheat, thanks for sharing. The only problem I had was the aftermarket heater core from Auto Zone didn't want to slide in the case and took a little more pressure to push in than I was comfortable with.
Hey guys after all this time has there been any leaks or blow outs on the rubber connectors on heater core,I have ever seen rubber used inside a car before & concerned if hot water bursts out but then again my dealership want 2k plus & Jeep for a week to do the job so am willing to give it a go Cheers cj
I just did this shortcut the last two days but the panels on our 2012 JK Unlimited (automatic) are a little different. I had to pull more panels off, including the drivers side bezel, radio, A/C cluster panel, console cover (to get at two screws for the main dash panel), panel below A/C cluster (with the useless net to hold nothing useful), and passenger side air bag panel. Just doing the bare minimum, as in this video, the passenger side of the main panel felt like it was going to crack in half if I tried to pull it back with the ratchet strap. The two screws on the bottom of the main panel and behind the useless net panel, were holding onto the panel very tight. Last thing, how did you guys get the 5/8" heater hose onto the aluminum tubes? I was working at night in about 30 degree temps and I had the hardest time getting those on. I thought I was going to break the tubes at the firewall connection. Either way, thanks for the video...it saved us tons of money and I got a new oscillating tool in the process!
I also have a 2012 wrangler unlimited in automatic. I did not find that you had to remove anything more? I did a video on the process as well if you are curious to see how I did it.
Just watched this video. Looks fairly easy. Have heat on passenger side hardly any on drivers side. When I turn heat on I smell radiator fluid but then goes away. Is this how yours started out ? Was there anything you had to do to get bubbles and such out of the radiator. I hear that can be a problem sometime. Thanks.
I just got done doing my 2014 JK using this video as my guide. Worth mentioning, I’m a 40 year old woman with zero car maintenance abilities beyond refilling my windshield washer fluid. But I was not about to spend the dealer-quoted $1800 for a $95 part. It took me about 2.5 hours and the hardest part was getting that vent snapped back into place. In fact, I left it for the night so any tips are greatly appreciated for when I attempt to put it back in. Anyway, thanks for this video and saving me a boatload of cash.
Well done, you're officially a Jeep DIY'r (do it you selfer)!
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (posted up on my channel) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
@@4WDTrek do you have a link to that vid ?
I'm a 63-year-old man and I would love to hire you😂
So you guys saved me 1400 bucks, for real. This works!!! Only thing I would add, flush the heater core with air from under the hood, then no mess in the cabin. If you guys are ever in Allentown, PA, I'M BUYING!!!!! THANKS AGAIN BROTHERS!!!
WoW it worked !!! Shop quoted me 1100$. Thank goodness I came across this video. 150$ all in. Watch the video a few times and it works perfectly. Thank you.
My heater core popped and blew all myvcoolant onto my floor board this morning. Got the new heater core from autozone and found this video right after. Plunge tool worked like a dream. This video saved me about 3-4 hours of work!
I’ve got a random coolant leak as well, this is probably what happened
I just replaced my 07 jk heater core following your video. 👌🏽I took me two hours taking slow and easy. Thank you I think if I paid someone it would have cost more than my jeep lol
After months of putting this off and not using the Jeep because I didn’t wanna pull the dash this worked perfect and took less then a hour thanks for a great how to
Just finished following the video and completed my heater core replacement. The layout on my 2011 wrangler was slightly different than the video but very similar, and easy to adjust fire. Thanks guys, you saved me $900 where the shop said it would be approx $1000 (parts and labor) for them to do it.
Awesome video. I was up in Washington, about 200 miles from home on vacation when I found my passenger floor pan full of coolant just as I was packing up to head home. Replenished the lost coolant with distilled water for the drive home, and made it home without overheating, but the system was pretty dry by the time I got home. Heading to pick up a new heater coil now, and will be doing the repair this afternoon. Thanks for the tutorial guys. Wish me luck.
Just completed the job on my 2010 as per your video, right before temps in Canada dips below -10 degrees. Thanks a million, I was losing sleep over the "stealership's" quote of $2000. Cost me less than 200 including purchasing the Oscillating Multi-Tools and less than 2 hrs to complete. I did not have to take the door out, just removed the strap and swing it open all the way near the fender. I also used thin rubber tape in between the cut frames and added aluminum duct tape to hold tie the ends of the cut frame and eliminate noise. The heat coming from all vents is super hot and even. Thanks again!
Awesome
Wow, I just completed this job. Took me around nine hours because I went slowly and took breaks. I also had to fabricate bracket supports to bridge the dash frame where I cut it. Used a pop rivet gun and/or sheet metal screws and small aluminum plates to fasten them. At the one closest to the center console I used JB Weld putty because it was just too hard to get too. I also used JB weld putty to strengthen and help seal the tubes coming out of the heater core where they connect. I referred to this video a lot as I went along, thanks guys for making it so detailed with good camera angles. When I cut the heater tubes I put down a lot of paper towels and that soaked up a lot of the coolant. Not that much came out but enough to soak big wads of paper towels. The oscillating tool was wonderful. That is the first time I have used one and bought it specifically for this work. It cut through the pot metal frame easily. Also it make short work of the tubes. At first I used heater hose that was too long to connect the tubes. They do not need to be that long. Just enough to get the clamps on properly. Putting it all back together was not too bad and I was left with one big screw. Had to refer back to this video to see where it went. The dash frame is now solid and firm after using the brackets. I did not take the door off, just unhooked the strap and disconnected the electrical wire and then just put the door back as far as it would go. I also did not remove the front seat. I did cut my hands a bit so have some liquid bandage on hand. I am also pretty stiff and sore as i have arthritis and i am older. I added a bit of coolant to the overflow tank and will check levels tomorrow. I tested the heater and it appears to be blowing hot air out the drivers side again. If and when I need to do this again, it should be much easier the second time around. Very happy! Saved me a ton of money and inconvenience. Thanks again guys.
Just wanted to add that my Jeep is a 2009 wrangler.
Thanks fellas. Took me a couple hours to do mine. I made up a couple little patch pieces and bolted the cut extruded aluminum bracket back together before putting the dash parts back on. Should've taken a couple photos, but didn't. Also you didn't specify what was in the glass. I found a 12 year old single malt scotch did the trick. Really appreciated this and you saved me $600-$700. If you're ever in Phoenix, I've got a bottle of Glenfiddich with your name on it.
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. I was able to complete the repair in a few hours. Toughest part was getting the 5/8 rubber hose on. Thanks again.
All I can say is WOW. I watched your video and it worked awesome. I had a hard time having to pay the shop over $800.00 for the heater core replacement. I was done in under 2 hours. I was little worried about the dash area not being solid once it was cut. Just as good as it was before. No vibration noises and still sturdy. I even bought the multi purpose tool. $90 heater core $80.00 multi purpose tool and I still saved over $600.00. Can’t thank you enough.
What a great hack! Didn’t need to take off the door for mine either and I don’t have a removable bottom panel. I was able to pull back the dash with a bungee cord attached to the bar on the bottom of the seat that pushes it back and forward. This fix saved me a lot of money and it was nice to finally have that volcano heat again🔥. Still going to replace the radiator and I replaced the thermostat and heat door actuator just in case too. For others doing this make sure you bleed the air out of your system, it might take a little driving to get whatever air bubbles out. I also poured coolant directly into the inlet heater core hose, reattached it, and then started it up. I didn’t have heat until I did this and drove around a bit. Monitor your temperature gauge to make sure you don’t overheat. Thanks again for taking the time to explain this fix!
God bless you guys for posting this i dont know how you figured out to do a heater core this way but you are amazing , that said i changed my heater core in my wrangler 4 times in the last two years, i finally went with a dealer heater core rather than AM one, i found that they started leaking at the joint or elbow , the only thing i could figure out that was causing it was my tubes out of the firewall were too long and they would cause movement and pressure on the core hoses, next time i will cut them shorter then add more rad hose, but i will buy more flexible hose that way it will allow for movement and less pressure on the elbow joint.
thanks again for posting i hope in some small way my post helps out anyone else
Just another person saying thanks for the easy to follow video. There were a couple differences for my 2012 jk but this was clear enough I was able to get it done
Did a complete replacement in less than two hours! Thanks a ton
Thank you so much for this video. This just saved me 1200. I know nothing about cars and was able to perform this on my 2011 Jeep Wrangler with no problem. Heat back on both sides. Thank you
I just used your video and saved myself $2k. You're a freaking hero bud.
The only thing I wish I would've done different, is I should've put the foot vent tube back before putting the dash back together. But either way, pretty straight forward.
Awesome video guys. I am using it as a guide while doing my Jeep heater core. Thank you so much for doing this.
Thanks you guys for guiding me in the right direction I followed your instructions and it worked like a charm
Thanks man! Great video. Watched it a few times and then swapped out my heater core the other night after work and all is good now with no leaks. You saved me a lot of time and money. Appreciate it. Cheers! 🥃
I just wanted to say thank you to these 2 heroes. This video saved me about $1k (dealer wanted $1,800!) and I did it myself in about 3 hours. Would have been faster if I had bought the right sized hose clamps LOL. One note... I drive a '13 JKU so the dash is a little different. There is no bottom panel to take off and there are only 3 screws holding it on. The rest is spot on. I bought my JKU used and didn't realize how bad the heater core was until I replaced it! Thanks again guys.
Just finished doing in on my 2014 following your video. Thanks for the upload!
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
I was hesitant to do this but saving $1500 bucks plus your detailed video was great motivation. Replaced the core yesterday and it worked perfectly! Using the vibrating saw was a great idea, I don’t regret spending $100 on it, I guess it saved me hours of work and was very safe. The hardest part for me was installing the hoses to install the heat core, I felt I was going to break the new core but I managed to get it done! Again, thanks for the video!
Make sure and replace the radiator as well if you are in a 2012+.
They notorious for having too much casting sand from factory and clogging up the radiator as well.
I just did the whole thing on video as well, using this same method and I have plenty of heat too!
Great idea! I have been living with almost no heat because I was not willing to remove the whole dash! I will though use your short cut method! Thanks
Great video. Saves an immense amount of time and labor and a doesn't tie up a service bay for a day. Customers love the money they saved.
Used your video today. Came out great and the heat works
Just followed your video and the job went very smooth! Thank you for your help.😁
I followed the directions on my Jeep. I had three bolts less on a 2012, plus it doesn't have that panel under the glove box. Anyway, after watching this video and with the same tools, you used, 1 hour fix easily. Thank you for this video!
Thanks for the video. it worked just like you showed. the only thing I added was a drop of dish soap on the end of rubber hose so they slipped on easer.
Bought my 2009 Wrangler back in Febuary of this year knowing the heater didn't work. (Down here in the South, Wranglers are EVERYWHERE, but everyone wants big money for them. So we just went with this one.) Only had to drive it about a month if that before warmer weather kicked in, so I never got around to fixing the heater core. Now it's DEC and it's been dropping down into the 20s and 30s and I haven't drove the Jeep in about 3 weeks now. I've seen a few videos like this before, but I believe today is the day I actually get to it. Thanks for the video and heres to hoping everything turns out great.
Guys, this is a great public service video. I love my JK, and the defect is expensive to fix. This is a great how to.
I've now done this on mine and my Fiancé's Jeep... Took me longer to track down my 7mm socket then to do the actual repair... Works Great! Excellent Instruction! .... Only thing I would add is to remove the heater hose at the thermostat housing and blow air through the old heater core to remove the fluid. Didn't get a single drip when working on the inside.
Mine all leaked out on the floor already...lol
Thanks for sharing this. Saved $$. No more leaking and I have heat again!
Okay, I've watched this 3 times now, heading out to tackle mine. Here's to hoping mine goes as smooth!
How did it go?
December 2023, just did this. Took about three hours and worked perfectly. Thank you
What flexible tube did you use?
I recently bought a 2008 JKU and my heater core is leaking.... not enough to notice any significant coolant loss but you smell it when you turn it on, I was dreading doing the job until I saw this video, Then I was way less dreading the job until I saw behind the dash to realize someone else already replaced the existing core using this method LOL so my job went from Dread, to relief, to super simple..... And for all the "OH my god you ruined the vehicle" posts.... I am not mad my used Jeep had this hack, I am nothing but happy as it just saved me time cutting etc.... I will however replace the patch hoses while in there as it just makes sense for a couple bucks.... And that also affirms that the rubber hose outlasted the heater core after this mod.... Again reinforcing that all the negativity in doing this mod is just idiots who paid the $1400 and found this video after... Also the bracket that was cut was not connected back together by anything but the bolts to components and there is no movement, breakage or damage in the time this heater core lasted.... I am pretty sure it was 5 years since I found a receipt for the heater core in the glove box dated Nov 2016 which included 1' 5/8" heater hose and 4 worm clamps. This may be a good post to pin for those wondering about the after effects..... That bracket is just an inner shell to hold the dash components and if anything is designed to crumple to help absorb impact... there are 5 other structural layers before it gets to that in an accident... If anything it may possibly help, way too many variables to say for sure. But it sure as heck isn't weakening the vehicle..... At the very most I could see a little cracking of the plastic on the dash after a decade of vibrations etc if you dont re-connect the piece. I won't be re-connecting it... My heater core can now be changed in under an hour start to finish including sitting waiting for it to bleed out air running. All you nay sayers go ahead and do it your way... I am not going on your videos saying YOU ARE A FOOL YOUR KIDS ARE GOING TO NOT BE ABLE TO GO TO COLLEGE becuase you spent that money on heater core instead of the easy way...... So let us have our opinions without bashing.
Thank you, my mechanic wanted $1345.00! It took me 3 hours and cost $140.00!
Normally we do not do things like this, we take things apart correctly. however that being said, the right way is so completely unreasonable. This saved us tons and tons of time, and we didn't have to disturb a bunch of other things that we could have broken in the process. Thanks for showing me this. save me a bunch of time and one of my customers a bunch of money. I doubt they'll be buying another Chrysler product.
Yup, just did mine. Took abt 2 hrs. That's with taking a break or two . Worst part is sliding hose on. I used aftermarket replacement part so it wasn't quite exact. Minimal coolant loss in the cab area. I had a contractor bag to catch everything. No leaks, im going to put dash back together. Thanks for the video
Just completed this on my 2013 this worked great. I have tried everything flushing the radiator replaced thermostat nothing worked had heat on passenger side but not drivers side did this in about a hour easy to do and have hot heat on both sides, Thanks guys saved me a ton of money over the dealership or doing it myself and didn’t have to take my whole Jeep apart to get it done.
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (on my channel if you are curious to see) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
Ya mine was bad (2014)
Just the video I was looking for! Doing this in a few days.
Project was put off for a bit. Got around to doing this yesterday and it went super smooth. and...... WE HAVE HEAT! Great write up on the forum and following up with a video. Making my life a whole lot easier.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Followed your video and now have heat on drivers side in my 2013 JK. $55 for the new heater core on Amazon!
You guys are awesome!
If the heat starts to diminish again, you may have excess casting sand still in your system coming from the radiator. Just as a heads up. he 2012+ were notorious for it. Casting sand was not removed from the engine from factory as well as it should have been. So it collects in the radiator and heater cores. I just did a video on replacing the entire system and poured so much sand out of the system, it was ridiculous.
I just finished this last night. Went well, in all 3hr. I went a step further and fitted the frame back in with plates. Easy enough with a drill and some self threading flanged bolts.
Its pretty solid even without reinforcing ... I was going to but once everything iis assembled ... It seems pretty solid
Just saved me $2000. Thank you sir.
Worked perfectly on my 2008 wrangler unlimited. Thanks for the video.
Awesome!
When changing this heater core make sure you use red 3 ply heater hose 5/8 in diameter if not you'll be redoing it. Along with four hose clamps obviously. Be careful with your lines they break easily if you get them hung up on something, as a friend of mine did. You will need a lubricant to put the hose on the lines, personally I used radiator fluid you would be surprised how slippery that is. If you use a 3/4 open end wrench it makes it easier to push the hose onto the pipe. Good luck, it works great. Thank you guys for the great video.
This worked great and saved me about 1500 bucks! Thx
You guys are awesome. Saved a ton of $$$$. Thank you!
I just completed this on my 2012. I was on the fence about doing this for two reasons. 1) I thought the dash cage was structurally important and 2) I didn't know if I had the skills.
Your video made this repair so easy. The dash is different in the 2012, but same principles apply. Couldn't believe how weak and lightweight the aluminum dash cage is. Once I had it off I had no doubt that it's only purpose is to hold the glovebox area in place. Cost me about $69.00 and 2.5 hours. It will be less than an hour for future swaps. I now cant even hold my hand in front of my heater. Beats the $1600 the dealership wanted. Thanks again!
No poblem bro...glad we could help..we had a great time making the video to
Adam Cox. Did you have any problems months after doing this, and is heater still hot? I need to do mine in my 2013 Wrangler. I'm starting to smell antifreeze when heat is on and heat gets cooler as you go across the front dash.
@@jameskey7290 If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (posted up on my channel) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
Thank YOU! awesome vid - great fix - just saved me at least a grand.
Thanks guys! Saved me a ton of aggravation and money!
Sure glad I watched your video before tackling this job. Well done
Before winter sets in here in Massachusetts I decided what the hell let's try this since I had horrible heat in my jeep jk , especially the drivers side, my girl would put a blanket on usually.
So I followed your directions, worked great.
The spots I cut I used JB weld and let set over night, just to assure myself of no noises.
I cut the frame with a small milwaukee 2420-20 hacksall and the heater core with a milwaukee oscillating tool.
Mayne with screw off time it took me 2 1/2 hours or so.
No hickups worked great
@ka1jbe did you drain the whole coolant system? These answers are all over the place. Some say yes and others say no.
@@kennethcrocker1678 I left the radiator cap on, and pulled the front passenger carpet up.
It leaked a bit when i cut it but nothing really.
have a couple rags handy.
It has no leaks..got to open the window it gets so hot now
@@kennethcrocker1678 I personally would drain the coolant as a precaution but it is not entirely needed.
I did not get much coolant out of my system when I did mine. But then again, I did also replace the entire radiator as well.
Which, if you have a 2012+, the pentastar engines were notorious for having casting sand stuck inside the cooling system and it is recommended to replace the radiator at the same time.
If you are curious on that process, i have that the video posted to include the radiator replacement.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!! Just replaced my heater core and would NOT have attempted it without seeing this video! The core only cost me $90 at O'Reilly's and three or four hours of my time! Did I say 'Thank You'?????
Well done JR - Muchas Gracias Amigo!
Great video. 2012 took about two hours to complete cost less than 100.00. Thank you for the detailed video.
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
I would have the heater core pointing UP when you cut the lines to splice into the old lines. That way no metal chips get into the core. Do the same when deburring the tubes.
This is awesome I tried all the flushing videos and they didn't work. And the price I was about to pay was crazy. Thanks
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (posted up on my channel) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
Just got done doing this and it worked great. I just clamped the two hoses under the hood and only lost about 2 cups of coolant. The main thing I have to add in these comments that hasn't been addressed is that I used a bucket liner for one of those mini roller paint buckets. The liner is rounded on 3 sides but one side is sloped and if you put the sloped side under the heater core before cutting the core pipes then the slope of the bucket liner is great for getting under there to catch coolant. Didn't spill a drop.
This works, saved me $1100, and only took an hour
Thank you guys for the recommendation! Worked on my 2013 JKU Rubicon. For others, I didn’t drain my system, I pinched it off at the hose in the engine bay right before the fire wall. Only lost about a cup of fluid. Definitely lay some plastic to catch the fluid as you cut the lines and push it up behind the lines as well to catch splatter. After burping the air and filling with fluid again it had hot heat again. Way to save me $1600
Thanks for your comment exactly what i was looking for
Thank you for this very useful comment!
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video (posted up on my channel) on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
What does burping the air mean? I think I’m about to do this repair myself because I don’t want to spend the money on the mechanic doing it. Thanks for any help you can give
Your a damn life saver gotta do this on my moms jeep cuz I was not looking forward to removing the whole dash😂
This worked very well, just be ready to catch coolant that spills out when you cut into the heater core intake / outtake.
Just want to say how thankful I am that I found this video. I have a 2008 that I picked up used in 2010. Ever since I’ve had it the heat as never been that great. After researching that the dash has to come out and it was something I was not willing to tackle. For the past yr it got to a point that it was not cutting it enough anymore. Found this video and as of today I love having my heater work correctly. As for the gentleman that said you didn’t have to cut anything. Just remove some hardware. Well that wasn’t possible since the area was made from one piece. Thanks again
Great video guys followed your instructions now I have heat again in the drivers side heater core wasn’t working anymore.
If the heater core does not work again, I would suggest replacing the heater core once again but also replace the radiator at the same time. The 2012+ is notorious for an issue with the pentastar casting sand from the factory clogging up the system really bad.
I did a video on how to replace the radiator as well.
Wow thanks!!
Just saved me 6h labor
Just got done doing exactly like you said and it works. I'm so greatful but my wife is in love thanks👍
Any problems with squeaking, or weakness that you noted. Did new heater core get you quite a bit of heat?
Yes works perfectly just like new
No prob man...alot of people need this
Took me about three hours today but that included cleaning up all the coolant from the passenger side carpet (thankfully dad has an carpet extractor). Great time and $$$ saver. The dealer had quoted me about $1,500 in labor by the way.
Just did mine tonight and boy do I have heat, face about melted off. Wish I found this last year. Gained over 65 degrees, DAMN YOU JEEP!!!
Make sure and replace the radiator as well if you are in a 2012+.
They notorious for having too much casting sand from factory and clogging up the radiator as well.
I just did the whole thing on video as well, using this same method and I have plenty of heat too!
Great video. Thanks guys
I love you boys :"D you just save me a ton of money may God bless you
Great job and great video!!!
Nice work
Just did mine this weekend. I disconnected the lines in the engine compartment and blew out the old coolant from the old heater core so there's no spilling inside when I cut the pipes.
Where you guys at? Can you do my core? LoL 😆 Thanks for the video.
Goody, that looks fun! Going to be extra fun considering that I have an aftermarket roll cage blocking the removal of that side piece.. I'll have to drop my windshield and totally disassemble the cage before I could begin. Or maybe I'll get lucky and find a way to pop the front piece off without removing the side piece.
Wow! You guys did an excellent job and your video is as excellent as your work!
The videographer the details the explanation wow!!
Looks like you already have been there done that. I have cars from the 60’s with the oem core. These new rigs get one every few years WTF.
THANK YOU!!!
Wow!! Great video 👍 now to find a garage that I can use to do this in. 2013 wrangler unlimited 🙄
Just did this to my 2013 JK this morning was done in 2 hours. Be really careful when cutting the heater core tubes you will spill close to a gallon of coolant. I put a tub on the floor and used a piece of plastic to direct the coolant into the tub. Had very little leakage onto the carpet.
If you seem to have diminishing heat again, you may have the dreaded casting sand issue. The 2012+ were notorious for the casting sand to clog up the heater core and radiator. I just did a video on replacing it all because I had that issue and no matter how much draining and flushing, it never came out clear.
Didn't have heat last winter, so I didn't drive it much. It's getting cold outside again and no surprise but the problem didn't go away on it's own. Back flushed a couple days ago and it made no difference. Temp gun showed 191 on the in hose and only 101 on the out. Guess I will be doing this over the weekend. (Shop wanted 6 hours labor)
Its not bad...pretty easy project for huge rewards
Great video guys! ... since you've topped up the coolant level in the video .. . how much coolant should one expect to come pouring out if those heater core pipes ?
I drained the system when I did mine. I had to replace the radiator as well, due to the dreaded casting sand issue with the 2012+ engines. (video up onmy channel if intrested)
I only got maybe a cup of coolant out of the piping after I cut. And the heater core I just removed with out tipping it and pouring out the coolant.
Mines not overheating etc. It just blows cold and hot when it wants to. I figured this is my thing also.
Thx for the info but I’m curious why you’re having to replace the heater core again ? I didn’t expect the repair to already have been done! Any advice on which core to stay away from ??
Well I can't do it by myself but, I have heat. My drivers side floor board is wet. It keeps smelling hot but its not? Could the heater core be my problem?
Having to cut the factory bracket to get the heater core out...🤦♂️That is some great engineering. 🤪
Engineers don't need need to engineer how to replace parts.....
thats fine when there is nothing else behind the glove box but mine 2008 has lots of things blocking even getting at cover
This video is awesome. Thank you guys for this. What size hose did you use on the tubing?
You use 5/8ths inside diameter hose.
I just did this same for my 2012 jeep. Had the casting sand issue causing it to clog up, including the radiator. I did the video on the entire process to include the radiator
Great cheat, thanks for sharing. The only problem I had was the aftermarket heater core from Auto Zone didn't want to slide in the case and took a little more pressure to push in than I was comfortable with.
I have done this 3 times in 3 years on the same 2010 wrangler. Why would it keep failing?
Did hose fittings hold up without leaks?
Hey guys after all this time has there been any leaks or blow outs on the rubber connectors on heater core,I have ever seen rubber used inside a car before & concerned if hot water bursts out but then again my dealership want 2k plus & Jeep for a week to do the job so am willing to give it a go
Cheers cj
How did you fix the dash support you cut up?
Is this video good for a 2008 Wrangler?
I just did this shortcut the last two days but the panels on our 2012 JK Unlimited (automatic) are a little different. I had to pull more panels off, including the drivers side bezel, radio, A/C cluster panel, console cover (to get at two screws for the main dash panel), panel below A/C cluster (with the useless net to hold nothing useful), and passenger side air bag panel. Just doing the bare minimum, as in this video, the passenger side of the main panel felt like it was going to crack in half if I tried to pull it back with the ratchet strap. The two screws on the bottom of the main panel and behind the useless net panel, were holding onto the panel very tight. Last thing, how did you guys get the 5/8" heater hose onto the aluminum tubes? I was working at night in about 30 degree temps and I had the hardest time getting those on. I thought I was going to break the tubes at the firewall connection. Either way, thanks for the video...it saved us tons of money and I got a new oscillating tool in the process!
I also have a 2012 wrangler unlimited in automatic.
I did not find that you had to remove anything more?
I did a video on the process as well if you are curious to see how I did it.
@@4WDTrek sure, I'd really like to see how you did it. Thanks!
The savage editing more than made up for the filmora trial banner 😂😂
We had a decent time making the video...lol
I love you
Would this be the same on an 04 wrangler?
Just watched this video. Looks fairly easy. Have heat on passenger side hardly any on drivers side. When I turn heat on I smell radiator fluid but then goes away. Is this how yours started out ? Was there anything you had to do to get bubbles and such out of the radiator. I hear that can be a problem sometime. Thanks.
Just drive it for a few min ...step on gas and brake hard...and take a couple descent corners and everything should free up
Have you guys experienced any leaks or hose swelling where you connect the two pipes together? I just wanna get an idea before i attempt this. Thanks
No sir