How To Get A Pro Model Car Paint Job With A Paint Brush
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- čas přidán 18. 03. 2024
- Is it possible to get a professional model car paint job with a paint brush and enamel paint?
It takes a short amount of time before a new paint brush can be brought to its maximum efficiency, and properly cared for, it can last for years.
In today's video, I will be demonstrating the techniques I use in painting flawless finishes on your model cars using enamel paints such as Testors, Floquill, Humbrol and Tremclad, while applying these techniques to an AMT 1932 Ford Victoria model car kit.
I will be answering the questions :
@00:38 - What paint brush is the best for painting model cars?
@02:09 - How do I thin and apply Enamel paint?
@09:33 - What is the best method to use in preparing a model car kit?
@13:34 - What is the best technique to get the perfect paint finish?
@41:18 - Do I need to sand the model car between paint coats?
@45:55 - Do I need to thin down the paint for the third coat?
@46:59 - How do I accurately paint small detail parts?
@50:48 - How do I paint a two-tone paint job on a model car?
@53:01 - What can I add to my model car to make it stand out?
@55:46 - Why is cleaning my paint brush important?
@58:11 - What does a brush painted model car look like?
If you enjoyed this video, please remember to like, subscribe, and share.
If you are looking for model car kits, please check us out at www.monster-hobbies.ca
#brushpainting #brushpaint #modelcars - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Omg!!!! I’ve searched online for over 2 years for someone that brush paints models cars. I’ve put in different search words but never found anything. Today I open CZcams n there you were on the front page. Thank you so so so much.
You are so welcome!
I just uploaded the video yesterday, but I spent 3 weeks making it. - But I used solid enamel color paints. I'll try something different as a "Part 2" to this one. Stay tuned.
I'm the same. I can't tell if it's a dumb idea to brush paint it, or if people are just wanting the speed and ease of spray painting?
It seems more interesting and skillful than just spraying some stuff on plastic and calling it a day.
@@Kinglink It does take some more time and patience for sure.
your hand brushed paint job is smoother than my spray can/air brushed one XD
Thank you so much. It's so rewarding when everything turns out right.
AS my name implies, I paint with a handbrush. I never use an airbrush, and only very very seldom do I use rattle cans. I very much appreciate this video on handbrushing. There are very few such videos.
You are welcome. Was there anything in this video that was new to you in the ways of hand brushing?
as a model builder of more than 60 years i am very impressed with this video and your results. i have always done most things the same way as you but mostly used spray paints where i can but i will be rethinking some things and trying some of your hand painting techniques. very informative video. thank you for the info.
You are welcome! I hope you get some good results. Even trying it once would be fun.
Absolutely incredible work Trevor! I would’ve never guessed by looking at the finish product that this model was brush painted! Excellent tips as well!
Thank you for watching. Glad you liked it. Hope it helps you out!
Thanks for taking the time to share. I'm a hand painter. I will thin the paint, but I never sanded in between coats. Have to try it on my next one!
It does help to get rid of any dust particles between coats as well as smooth out the paint itself and give a tooth for the next coat. - Thank you for watching!
great tutorial on brush painting!! I'm sure this will help out some folks!!
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
Stay tuned for Part #2.
Outstanding tutorial! You're right, my thoughts of brush painting an entire kit were just as you stated. After watching you do it though, I know better. I will say, I think for this era of automobile, the brushed on enamels are really fitting. The finished paint looks thick like I would imagine the real car would look. This video should (and probably will) go viral in the modeling community. Thank you for making and sharing it. Peace and love.
You are welcome! Cars back in this era were spray painted, as seen in classic assembly line movies of the day from the factories (Some were even dipped in paint tanks), but people did repaint many, like the black only model T's, with different colors using brushes after they bought them.
Anyway, I am thinking of making a follow-up video to this one using other paints. Hope you can catch that one once it's done.
Great tutorial Trevor, really looks fantastic!!!!!, 👍👍😎
Glad you like it and I hope you give brush painting a try after seeing my video.
Really nice job!
Thank you so much. I hope the technique helps you out.
Very nice Trevor! Useful video!
Thank you. I hope it helps you out.
Perfect job Sir 👍🙂
Thank you so much. I hope you will give it a try sometime too.
Thank you. I've always wanted to brush paint a model, now I know how.
Glad you liked it and I hope the video helps you out.
Fantastic tutorial. Looks great.Thank you.
You are welcome. I hope you will try it out sometime.
Hi Trevor. This tutorial is great info. I've always had bad result with hand brushing model cars. Have a great day.
Glad you liked the video. Maybe after watching it, you could try again with better results? Give it another try.
Thank you
Very Helpful
You're welcome!
Good luck on your painting project!
Looks cool. 🖌
Thank you so much. There will be a sequel to this video. I am experimenting with some ideas before I begin the next one.
Very cool tutorial ❤😊
Thanks so much 😊 - The video is at 600 views in under 24 hours. Glad people are enjoying it!
Hope I reach 1000 by the end of the day.
Perfect timing! I have some parts on my ICM Model T that need hand painting 😁
Glad I could help.
I'll have to watch this in parts Trevor. Watching you put that first coat on the red roof brought me back to the last time i tried doing it that way. A teenager with his 2 white Testors brushes and a toothpick for the small stuff.
I remember a friend of mine painting like that - white plastic Testors brushes and a toothpick. You should try again with a good brush from an art store and see what you can do! 🖌😙
It's ok to watch the video in parts. I show a lot of things and I even time-stamped them for easy reference. Just click on the "More" section and it should open up for you.
I can already tell you put a lot of time, effort and research into this and I want to see the whole thing, not skip around. I don't want to forget the comments I want to make as I watch new parts. Plus my short attention span lol.
From what I've seen so far plus what I know or remember, if I was to try again I would certainly be using a better brush than I did back then! Probably natural, not synthetic bristles. A paint brand called One Shot, it's like the #1 stuff here for painted on pinstripes on real cars, especially custom stripes . Great durability! Good reducer for it. I would have primed the body, because I seem to get better results that way, and I've had fillers come back and show through or shrink over time.
When it comes to brush painting a body you have more experience than me, so I'll watch it all and see what else I can learn 😁
@@pappytinkers I bought a starter set of Artist's One Shot. Came with red, yellow, blue and black and white. I also bought a set of Mack brushes to try and learn pinstriping.
As far as experience with brush painting, when I was first learning to build models, I did it a lot, but as I got older, I switched to spray cans and air brushes. It's only recently that I went back to brush painting with the last 3 models being done this way.
That being said however, I have inherited a lot of Testors square bottle enamel model paints from my Dad and I had a lot in my collection before, as well as my access to more since I own a hobby store.
I also find that I can brush paint in the house without making too much of a paint mess or smell as you would get from spray painting or using an air brush and weather is not a problem. Therefore, I think I will do more of these paint jobs in the future.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage the Mack 00 pin striping brush! Watching a master put on stripes with one was always a thrill for me! They do things I can only dream of. I could watch them for hours.
Yes, there are benefits like that for using a brush. Even down here in Florida, I have to Wait because of the weather too cold sometimes. And if a project gets put on hold for too long, I lose interest and move on to something else . I've switched to mainly acrylics now so the fumes isn't an issue as much. But mastering the brush gives you the best of both techniques. With a little imagination you might find ways to combine the two?
Having full access to a type of paint is huge as to what you use. When I was younger, I worked as a painter in body shops, so I used automotive paint almost exclusively. We had the mixing machines so I could make any factory color I wanted. Or mix up custom colors, shades, pearls or whatever I wanted. And the clears, OMG! So hard, durable and nothing else beats the shine of a good 2k or high solids clear. For a while, I would buy a kit, paint the body, then sell it on eBay for an extra $20-40 bucks. This was back in the 90s, before you could get any of the stuff that's out now. I changed careers and list access to it, and I wasn't happy with the actual model paints, so I quit doing cars till recently.
@@pappytinkers Glad to have you back. I also have an autobody history, but not as extensive as yours.
Thank you for sharing, wonderful video! As a general rule, assuming no bleed through, may we use enamels without a Primer?
For sure. Always experiment first on some scrap plastic from your kit to see how the paint reacts.
Hi Trevor, Cant recommend this vid enough, I followed the steps as you showed here and brush painted the Revell 2 in 1 "67 Mustang" it's only the first coat and it looks great, Im building it as the Cobra Jet but in German Fire Emergency red as looks like Poppy, the front wheels are Chrome and got some Chrome spray to do the rear steels to match the fronts.
Thanks again Trevor for a vid that helped me out a lot and took the mystery out of brush painting, Best wishes to yourself,family and fellow viewers.
Glad I could help and I'd love to see the finished model!
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage Hi Trevor, thank's, i'd be happy to send pictures once it's done, have a super week.
@@SunShine-dk6rk That would be cool!
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage in addition I just got some Chinese bristle brushes literaly minutes ago as heard they are great for enamals and cant find Sable brushes as easy here in Germany as I could back in England tried them on a plastic aerosol lid and they seem good, on the Mustang im using my old flat sable brush and just ordered an AMT GT500 Mustang, In England a local garage had a real Mustang KR and that was a treat to see.
I have a question do you further thin the coats after the first or keep it as 7 parts paint to 1 thinner and after is it worth clear coating, sorry to be a nuisance.
Thank you and best wishes.
@@SunShine-dk6rk The brushes sound good. Always test them on something else first, like a spare part you are not going to use until you find a brush you think is working correctly.
As for thinning the paint further after each coat, you can do that as well. Just be careful that you don't make it too runny.
For your clear coat question, it's really a matter of the final gloss level of the last coat of paint. If you are happy with the shine, then there is no need to go further with a clear coat.
So with enamel paints you use a natural bristle brush? I think the key to success is that you thin the paint so it flows better, and using the right brush will just make it that much better.
For sure. I hope I taught that ok in the lesson.
One more question, when gluing painted parts, do you scrape the paint off first? or use CA Glue, or other suggestion? cheers. Your time and insight is appreciated and welcomed.
Remove paint and chrome from the contact surfaces. You want the pure plastic to plastic bond. I use Testors glues.
I'm up to the beginning of the second coat. The first thing i what to say is that it was soothing.. Calming, to watch you brush painting. Not all rushed and hurried as we all seem to get while spraying. I'm glad you didn't speed that up any. I have a few questions. Are you using a synthetic or natural brush? I noticed that you didn't wipe the brush on the edge, after dipping the brush into the paint, why not? Just not worried about drips?
I'm really enjoying this so far! I know that when they started mass producing cars, they were brush painted. I don't know when they started spraying, so you may even be applying a period correct paint job. That's cool in itself! I haven't cheated and skipped to see the final product but i can't wait to see it!
Glad you like my progress.
They must have sprayed cars quite early on to make up the time lost. I have seen old movies where they are spraying the paint on the car from what looks to be a fire hose. Someone else said they painted with laquer paints. We might just not know.
I'm using a natural brush.
Didn't need to wipe it on the edge because I only dipped it into the paint 1/2 way.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage yes, they used lacquers when they first came out. At least the Ford's were. And Henry Ford was famous for saying they can have their car in any color they want, as long as it's black. I forget how the pin stripes got started, but I was involved with changing the cars being brush painted. Because of the differences in weather, sometimes it would take weeks for the paint to dry and would get very upset because all the cars sitting outside the factory, just waiting for the paint to dry
@@pappytinkers That is the issue with paints. I inherited my Dad's models which were painted in a humid environment. None of them have that high gloss, even though it's the same paint, as the ones I painted here in Alberta where it's a dry climate. The other issue is sometimes things dry too fast here.
Henry Ford did have Model T cars that were painted in other colors besides black. The early 1908-1914 cars were different colors, but as mass production started to heat up in the late teens and into the 1920's, he did change that to black since black paint dried the fastest and was ideal for the assembly line. However, when he started to lose sales to Chevy in 1925, he returned to painting Model T's for the 1926 and 1927 run.
Most people assume that because Henry said "You can have any color as long as it's black", that ALL Model T's were black. But that wasn't the case. Just for that short time from 1918-1925.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage Many people have no idea how important temp and humidity is for paint. We all use the term 'paint drying ' but you and I know that it's much more than that. I believe that's part of my issues with all the new water based model paints. I live in Florida, so water and humidity, plus the heat, makes a good finish difficult.
Thank you for finding the details on that about the old days! The History Channel did a good show about Henry Ford. That might be where I heard the 'only color as long ...' thing.
@@pappytinkers He did say it, but thankfully not at the beginning of the Model T's life.
Check out the Ford Model K sometime. It's a cool machine, but Henry didn't like it.
Yes, paint can be a tricky thing for sure.
Excellent, detailed and informative. Just what I needed to get back into brush painting cars. I’ve only been doing acrylic on Bandai Gundam and Star Wars ships recently. Used Testors back 30 plus years ago. Been reluctant to do cars because of the exterior painting. This gives me numerous pointers and motivation. Is sanding between coats always necessary and is 3 coats the magic number? Thanks again.
Glad you found this video helpful.
3 is a good number of coats because each coat is building on the first one to get to the color depth you see through the glass of the bottle.
However, I have been painting with Testors 1111 dark blue and it is quite thin, so I have gone into 4 coats of paint with that one to get it to the dark color it should be. Thankfully, it's so thin that it's not filling in much detail.
I have read of someone back in the early 1960's putting on 16 coats of paint on a model car. I think I would lose count somewhere on that job.
Sanding between coats is recommended just to smooth out the undercoat for the next color and to get the top paint smooth and eliminate any brush strokes, runs, or dust from multiplying in the layers of paint.
Hope that helps you out!
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage That does help. Thank you so much. I was gonna just try acrylic and see how it goes but now seeing your video and hearing how manageable enamel can be, I will give it a try. I was trying to stay away from the fumes but painting a car body with enamel once in a while, and ventilated, might not be so bad. Plus I’m not great at spray cans. Always learning new things, even after 40 years.
@@JIMZUHN Brush painting enamels doesn't really kick up the fumes like spray painting enamels does.
When you are brush painting and close up, there is a smell, but you can put the model on the table and move back a few feet to fresh air.
Whereas with spray painting enamels, you enter the "Fog" and are surrounded, as it were.
Hi, Found your tutorial great, easy to understand and covered everything, im building a 1965 Mustang with no paint to get my confidence back and just ordered a Revell Chevy Camaro 67 or 69 which im going to use your tutorial on and look forward, I used to paint and got an ok finish with 1 coat but was always wanting to know more about thinning, sanding and getting a dust,blemish free finish and the way you explained brush care and straining the paint was most useful.
You have made a great video that covers everything in an easy to understand way as im looking to make models that look like the old "Dealership models" ie single colour, if you have other ideas ie metallic id love to know.
Best wishes.
Glad you found my tutorial helpful. I am working on another and there will be more paint videos to follow in the future. Sadly, with paint videos, the hardest part is waiting for the paint to dry.
Good luck with your project and don't forget to check out my other Tips and Tech videos for more help.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage Hi, Thank you, I look forward to your new vid's and of course your older one's which I equally look forward to viewing, though from the UK I now live in Germany and Revell is the best seller here, whilst enjoying Revell I get other brands ie AMT, MPC, Polar from Amazon as love the old model brands.
I agree waiting for the paint to dry is vital as years back id not leave long enough and one way or another a disaster would occur, but now viewed your painting vid a few times as it reinforces how i'd like to do my model making now, with the same enthusiasm as I did in the 1970s but a lot more patience and your vid's are a great inspiration.
Best wishes.
@@SunShine-dk6rk Thank you so much. I am lucky in a way. My days off of work are days apart from one another, so if I work on Monday, I get Tuesday off, and so on. I can paint my model on my day off, and then sand it on my next day off a few days later. Plenty of time to let the paint harden up between sanding and coats.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage My pleasure, your days of work and rest sound like a good balance, I started on the 65 Revell Mustang coupe and it's taking shape got some glue for the windows today and chrome bits and hope to enjoy building the rest over the next few days, thereafter the 67 Chevy Camaro's arrived today and practice painting on those Orange sounds good, hope your day's good.
@@SunShine-dk6rk Thank you. I think I have those two kits. I bought them in the 1990's and I should really get around to building them! LOL!
Trevor, i am very impressed ! The way you tu-toned it shows just what a master you are. I knew it would be good, but wow! I'm Inspired to give it a try as well! I believed that the enamels have little use now days other than some small details. I stand corrected.
I have some questions about brush care cause mine never last. The soap, is that a special brush soap or just any regular soap? Do you go through the same cleaning with acrylics? Do you clean synthetic and natural brushes the same way?
Sorry it took so long to finish watching this. One of the dogs got my dentures off the counter and took them into the back yard. It's half an acre. I've spent the last 5 days, raking through leaves, grass and sand, crawling and searching. Found the bottom, but only prices of the upper.
It's just ordinary soap. I'm using it to remove the residue from the brushes that regular paint thinner can't get out. That being said, I do know that some art stores carry special brush cleaning soap, but I haven't tried that yet.
Sorry to hear about your dentures.
Thank you for your words about my video. Hope you can give it a try again and that it turns out well.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage i will give that a try. It will be a challenge, but that's part of the fun of modeling, overcoming the challenge!
If anyone asks me about brush painting, as far as I'm concerned, yours is the one to watch
@@pappytinkers Thank you. I am pretty sure my video IS the only one to watch. I did some research before and I couldn't find much, especially with model cars primarily.
I wish you luck in your painting project.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage I have a few others on the bench first, like finishing the weathering series. But I think I know which kit it will be
@@pappytinkers It's funny...I am planning another painting video, but I have to make a different video first because of the models I want to use for the other video. I have to build my way through to the video I want to make.
😮😮👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you liked it. Hope it helps!
Great tutorial Trevor, did you thin the paint on the first 2 coats and if so munch?
I do believe I thinned it to the ratios described earlier in the video, however, I just painted a kit with Testor's 1111 Dark Blue and that paint was so thin I needed 4 coats to get the color right.
I'm about to brush paint my first model using your method.
@@georgetaylor5482 Sounds good. Good luck and painting is more of a feel.
U mentioned cleaning up the Molotov Pen with Rubbing Alcohol...is that true over all paints (Lacquer, enamel or acrylic)?
No, just for the alcohol based paints.
What do you recommend to "strain" the paint?
I just used a metal strainer from the dollar store (A kitchen utensil), but you could also use panty-hose for a mesh.
I’m old old school and I do all my models with paintbrush and half for 50 years did turn out fine by me but what the hell I’m over 60 years old high sight not that good so they look good to me lol
Glad you still do it this way. Did you find any new information in my video, or did I miss something important? Please let me know either way.