The split is to adjust for thread engagement. If you need a very very tight thread engagement you can tighten the center screw to widen the die and give more shallow cuts which increases thread engagement.
The complete slit has a few jobs, first most things given threads with this type set have NO threads to begin with so you run it down and then back off, tighten the left tp right allen wrench keys and go again, less is more in this case, 2nd all up and down thread distance(the step length some call it) does mean that the depth of the threads are the same, eccentially you can take 5 identical thread numbered work and none have the same thread depth, this being a most crucial part of threading gun barrels and so how i first found out, a trick is to remove the thread cover from a factory barrel and find the bolt that not on fits the thread protector, if working on any project the same holds true, once you fi d the bolt the is already measured for width and number of threads around, take your die and hand screw ur bolt into it and u will instantly see how though it fits, the depth of the threads are a half a mm off and thus just tighten the die till it has no wiggle and with a little machine oil you basically can spin the die and it will smoothly move up and down like a factory boly for that particular depth. IT IS A LIFE SAVER WHEN YOU ARE DEPENDENT ON A BLIND HOLE BOLT(meaning there are no bolts,washers,lock washers etc, used, just the bolt and thread) as a matter of fact 85 percent of firearm barrel mounts come with a 1 time use 10-15 dollar 'crush' washer which is essentially a washer with thing springy layers to make sure the threads have pressure up and down as the depth of any threading as I said, is not regulated. P.S. for the gun guru, I understand a crush washer makers removal of a linear comp or even suppressor 100 times easier to remove, but unless you are going through 5 to 10 THOUSAND rounds for your job or duty, u will not need to worry about your barrel turning carbon and dust into a heat weld situation for your compensator or flash guard Whatever, just remember. FIND A NUT THAT FITS THE FACTORY THREADING, Put it up if possible, and you will always have a way to set your split die depth perfect, and also see when your work is wore out past a review and need a flange drill out with stainless steel nitride insert to start the thread back to mil-spec or factory spec... hope that helps somebody
I would not rely solely on this set in a production application. But if you're only digging 10 holes in your garage on the weekends, don't spare the oil & you'll probably hand this down to your kids when your torch backfires into the tanks. (The investigators will find your dirty cutting tip.) Aaaaanyway, both kits get a thumbs up from me. Yes, I have them and use them more than I should. Yes, they have the LIFETIME WARRANTY. No, I've never broken one of these taps. Use oil; it's cheaper than a trip to HF.
Thanks for making a USELESS vid of what's inside the case ...I can see that on their website...Or give the viewer your opinion on quality with No facts behind it..How about using the tools over a period of time and give a review on that..Makes sense??
The split is to adjust for thread engagement. If you need a very very tight thread engagement you can tighten the center screw to widen the die and give more shallow cuts which increases thread engagement.
You won't regret having both the metric and standard. This seems like a very high quality set. I have both of these. One use and it pays for itself.
The complete slit has a few jobs, first most things given threads with this type set have NO threads to begin with so you run it down and then back off, tighten the left tp right allen wrench keys and go again, less is more in this case, 2nd all up and down thread distance(the step length some call it) does mean that the depth of the threads are the same, eccentially you can take 5 identical thread numbered work and none have the same thread depth, this being a most crucial part of threading gun barrels and so how i first found out, a trick is to remove the thread cover from a factory barrel and find the bolt that not on fits the thread protector, if working on any project the same holds true, once you fi d the bolt the is already measured for width and number of threads around, take your die and hand screw ur bolt into it and u will instantly see how though it fits, the depth of the threads are a half a mm off and thus just tighten the die till it has no wiggle and with a little machine oil you basically can spin the die and it will smoothly move up and down like a factory boly for that particular depth. IT IS A LIFE SAVER WHEN YOU ARE DEPENDENT ON A BLIND HOLE BOLT(meaning there are no bolts,washers,lock washers etc, used, just the bolt and thread) as a matter of fact 85 percent of firearm barrel mounts come with a 1 time use 10-15 dollar 'crush' washer which is essentially a washer with thing springy layers to make sure the threads have pressure up and down as the depth of any threading as I said, is not regulated. P.S. for the gun guru, I understand a crush washer makers removal of a linear comp or even suppressor 100 times easier to remove, but unless you are going through 5 to 10 THOUSAND rounds for your job or duty, u will not need to worry about your barrel turning carbon and dust into a heat weld situation for your compensator or flash guard Whatever, just remember. FIND A NUT THAT FITS THE FACTORY THREADING, Put it up if possible, and you will always have a way to set your split die depth perfect, and also see when your work is wore out past a review and need a flange drill out with stainless steel nitride insert to start the thread back to mil-spec or factory spec... hope that helps somebody
I would not rely solely on this set in a production application. But if you're only digging 10 holes in your garage on the weekends, don't spare the oil & you'll probably hand this down to your kids when your torch backfires into the tanks. (The investigators will find your dirty cutting tip.) Aaaaanyway, both kits get a thumbs up from me. Yes, I have them and use them more than I should. Yes, they have the LIFETIME WARRANTY. No, I've never broken one of these taps. Use oil; it's cheaper than a trip to HF.
How does this compared to 'TEKTON 7560 '
How does Titanium Nitride Coated Alloy Steel compare to HSS?
well done thank u.
Please don’t buy this tap and die set. They are junk! Buy a quality set once and you will never buy another one!
I guess it's better than nothing.
Never trust a man who doesn't know how to cut his fingernails or buy clothes that fit
So are you gonna make a tutorial video now on how to cut your nails and where to buy the nail clippers from or what? 🤷
I'll thumbs up you BRO!
Thanks for making a USELESS vid of what's inside the case ...I can see that on their website...Or give the viewer your opinion on quality with No facts behind it..How about using the tools over a period of time and give a review on that..Makes sense??
dang bro chill whats the deal