I used it for a whole season, with Tenergy 05 on both sides. Loved it. I actually found issues with my cheap rubber glue with the varnish. The rubber would start to peel if I caught the rubber on the table if doing a heavy / chop push. I tried all sorts with the glue: * fully removed all glue from the rubber+blade then reapplied to both rubber+blade, and waited for the glue to go off before "mounting" - would still happen * tried edge-tape - was better, but not great * tried more glue - no better I ended up using 1500 grit sandpaper on the varnish (very lightly), just to give the glue something to "key" onto - it worked for the 2nd half of the season (before Covid). Before this blade - I used to use a Donic Waldner Senso V1 (an old allround / offensive blade). This blade is faster, but not to the detriment of my game. My blocks were stronger/faster requiring less effort, but without loss of control. Attacking is where this helped the most as I'd guess it's saved 20% effort when looping. Ultimately, this has meant that i can achieve more speed/spin for a similar previous effort. And - for the price of the blade, it's a no-brainer to try to see if it suits you.
@@Hoowtooo , i have it on my channel, see the public videos from the last 3 weeks. I use it with Neo Hurricane 3+TSP Ventus Soft, it's a very nice blade, i have it since March but initially I felt it like an allwood blade paired with cheap hard rubbers, but it's real carbon and have nice control.
is this a real carbon blade or did they just write that on the product page? I mean cant complain about a good regular OFF 5 ply blade for 6$ but real carbon would be a steal
To be honest, I couldn't tell you either way, as I have no way to test, or confirm if there is a real carbon layer in it. There is a black-layer when you look side-on to the blade...
@@HowToFu I bought one. It says "imitation carbon" in the product page. I don't know what does is but blade seems faster anyway. Might even be better than the dense weaves in Carbonado that make the blades almost unplayable
It's so that if you ever needed to, you can remove the rubber easier. Back in the day when I first started out and glued up a JJB "schildkrot" special (aka cheapo) blade with sriver, the glue soaked into the wood, and it was impossible to remove the rubbers without the sponge ripping to shreds.
And finally, when players used to speed glue, the blade needed to be varnished to help with gluing; to stop the sponge sticking and ripping, and to preserve the wood
czcams.com/video/HBMVBtQ4dng/video.html I made this video first with my FIRST blade that I bought, and glued it up without varnishing. I then bought the second blade as backup, and also "just incase" my sons want to take up the game.
what's the varnish for? To seal the wood fibres, so that when/if you glue rubbers on, then remove the rubber, the blade doesn't splinter. i apply a super thin layer of varnish. wait for that to dry. then very lightly hand sand (1 pass) to lightly key the surface so that the glue has something to grab onto.
Hi can you make a review of the racket Performance on game? It's speed, control and other.... thanks
I used it for a whole season, with Tenergy 05 on both sides.
Loved it.
I actually found issues with my cheap rubber glue with the varnish.
The rubber would start to peel if I caught the rubber on the table if doing a heavy / chop push.
I tried all sorts with the glue:
* fully removed all glue from the rubber+blade then reapplied to both rubber+blade, and waited for the glue to go off before "mounting" - would still happen
* tried edge-tape - was better, but not great
* tried more glue - no better
I ended up using 1500 grit sandpaper on the varnish (very lightly), just to give the glue something to "key" onto - it worked for the 2nd half of the season (before Covid).
Before this blade - I used to use a Donic Waldner Senso V1 (an old allround / offensive blade).
This blade is faster, but not to the detriment of my game.
My blocks were stronger/faster requiring less effort, but without loss of control.
Attacking is where this helped the most as I'd guess it's saved 20% effort when looping.
Ultimately, this has meant that i can achieve more speed/spin for a similar previous effort.
And - for the price of the blade, it's a no-brainer to try to see if it suits you.
@@HowToFu i already have and i actually bought from the same brand their limba wood good feeling and speed :)
@@Hoowtooo , i have it on my channel, see the public videos from the last 3 weeks. I use it with Neo Hurricane 3+TSP Ventus Soft, it's a very nice blade, i have it since March but initially I felt it like an allwood blade paired with cheap hard rubbers, but it's real carbon and have nice control.
Can you please give a review of the blade and how it is for play ?
consistent blade, feels aggressive, but nice control.
At the price (less than £10), its a bargain.!
Hi, can you attach the link of the buyer ? I am wondering how much is the shipping cost . Thank you.
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000589826174.html
Try this link.
On aliexpress, search for "BOER 7 Layers Carbon Fiber"
How is it compared to the boer dragon, which is better?
Hi, not used the boer dragon
Does it compete with any of the more expensive blades in the market ?
Hi, I haven't used any other carbon blade, so it'd be difficult for me to compare, especially with covid closing down all the leagues/clubs in the UK
NJ blades yeah really expensive lol
is this a real carbon blade or did they just write that on the product page?
I mean cant complain about a good regular OFF 5 ply blade for 6$ but real carbon would be a steal
To be honest, I couldn't tell you either way, as I have no way to test, or confirm if there is a real carbon layer in it.
There is a black-layer when you look side-on to the blade...
@@HowToFu I bought one.
It says "imitation carbon" in the product page. I don't know what does is but blade seems faster anyway.
Might even be better than the dense weaves in Carbonado that make the blades almost unplayable
This might be a stupid question, but what is the purpose of the varnish?
It's so that if you ever needed to, you can remove the rubber easier.
Back in the day when I first started out and glued up a JJB "schildkrot" special (aka cheapo) blade with sriver, the glue soaked into the wood, and it was impossible to remove the rubbers without the sponge ripping to shreds.
The varnish acts as a barrier between the wood, glue and sponge.
It is another layer to the blade so might make it faster also...
And finally, when players used to speed glue, the blade needed to be varnished to help with gluing; to stop the sponge sticking and ripping, and to preserve the wood
@@HowToFu ahh, makes sense. Thanks
czcams.com/video/HBMVBtQ4dng/video.html
I made this video first with my FIRST blade that I bought, and glued it up without varnishing.
I then bought the second blade as backup, and also "just incase" my sons want to take up the game.
How much is that blade cost?
less than £5 posted on Aliexpress
I played the 2019/2020 season with this blade and Tenergy 05.
Fantastic combo.
Power, control/touch, spin.
Does it recommended for defence? And top spin ?
I can't comment on the defensive qualities. I use tenergy 05 on both sides
Squash the Lion into a racket but the diagonal lines over it and were good to go 😂
Para que sirve el barniz??
what's the varnish for?
To seal the wood fibres, so that when/if you glue rubbers on, then remove the rubber, the blade doesn't splinter.
i apply a super thin layer of varnish. wait for that to dry. then very lightly hand sand (1 pass) to lightly key the surface so that the glue has something to grab onto.