EXPOSED!- Bandsaw Trick Steel Company's dont want you to see!!
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- How to cut small pieces in a horizontal bandsaw. Basically maximize the use of your steel stock in a bandsaw vise.
Behind the Scenes CZcams Channel: / @oldbarnhomestead
Neat idea, wish I would have heard or thought of it long ago as well. Thank you for sharing.
I realize I'm quite randomly asking but does anybody know of a good site to stream new movies online ?
@Andre Kyle I use Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
@Andre Kyle lately I have been using FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)
@Jude Gary Yup, have been watching on FlixZone for years myself :D
@Jude Gary Yea, have been watching on FlixZone for since april myself =)
*Perfect band saw for the hobby enthusiast **MyBest.Tools** Easy to set up and square. Had it running in 10 to 15 minutes. Quality of cuts will depend on the quality of the blades.*
I'm 65 years old and the first fab shop I worked in was 46 years ago. (you do the math) One of my first jobs in that fab shop was to cut 4" long sections of 2" std wall pipe from 24' randoms in a band saw for steel cabinet legs. My journeyman was a fellow named Ken Lewendowski who had worked as an aircraft tinsmith apprentice for Messerschmidt during the second world war. After I had cut up 4 or 5 lengths Ken came over and showed me how to take a piece of 4" XXH pipe cut about 4" long and split length wise so it looked like an arc from above and cut those last waste pieces 5 to 7 inches long to size pretty much like this. I asked him where he learned the trick and he told me Messerschmidt in 1942 as an apprentice from his journeyman when he was just starting out. So how is this a secret again? As far as subscribing to your channel for words of wisdom I think I will pass. Big secret. Click bait and nothing more.
I am not 65 I am 29 and this was helpful to me. Hey scooter Ken SHOWED you how to do it Right?
Good for you
Yep, Just had 3 company's service reps tell me last week that they didn't want me to see this amazing technology.
Your video title does not refect content of video. More like "Safely cutting material that is shorter than stock clamp on bandsaws".
interesting, thanks
it's called clickbait, that's why the dislike ratio is so high
Good idea. The triangle is a good way to leverage the vise. I use a piece of angle iron horizontally to bridge between two short lengths of material. The advantage that I see for the angle iron is it doesn't have to be thick. 1x1x1/8" is enough to apply sufficient pressure to the stock and it will naturally grip the center point so it won't push the stock up out of the vise. Works for round, square, and multiple other shapes.
I had the same idea after seeing the video. I think I would put the angle on the rear jaw with something like he used on the front/moveable jaw. Also mill (or weld) a flat on the 90 degree edge angle pressing against the rear jaw helping to avoid a slip. I have simply bridged two pieces like you described with good results as well most all the time.
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made czcams.com/users/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
Generally, I have used a piece of cut off 2x2 or 3x3 angle depending on what I am cutting off; you can use it horizontal or vertical in the clamp giving you much more optional movement in the base piece before you start the cut.
I just watched this video and my steel supplier came to my shop and hit me in the head with a 4' piece of 2" cold rolled...thanks alot
Bandsaw operation 101 takes about 10 minutes to learn everything about it but that style vise to the back side is a no brainer.
Suggestion: put arch piece a little to the left on your piece to be cut so it is pushing squarely against back fence and not off set toward blade. Will solve future pressure issues. good vid.
I like it. Very good trick. But in doing that remember that only about half of the vise force is applied to your work piece. The other half of the original clamp force is going into that other round spacer piece. The triangle piece takes the vise force and splits it between the two. The actual percentages of the force split depends on the shape of the triangle. Not a problem, though, as long as your vise is strong enough. Just crank it in about twice as hard as usual.
Thanks for sharing
On our chopsaw, it has clamps on
each side of the blade.
The heads of each clamp rotates,
So, we've had to do similar forever.
When we've run into times when
don't have a short enough piece of
same size stock,
(& not wasting by cutting more),
we'll use a 3" piece of 4" square
tubing (1/4" thick) with one side
cut off. So it pinches evenly.
We even have some with arches
cut out for round stock / thick wall tubing.
For application on your bandsaw's
fixed head clamp, I'd recommend
using short sections of angle iron to
get your pinching even... or cut out
the center of your triangle that
you're using.
So as not creating a shifting
sideways effect from uneven
pressure.
Thanks again
I have a cheapo bandsaw but still had probs with small pieces. I made a small palette/fixture plate for those occasions which does help. Your fix is elegantly simple.
I recently watched a video about this very idea except that the piece used for clamping was cut from a heavy wall pipe with suitable 6" or 8" diameter. The clamp was in the shape of a semi-circle. Same concept and Worked great.
Ramsey, Pull your vise jaw all the way back. drill and Tap a 1/2 hole in the bottom of your vise.......then use a hold-down clamp from your mill , to hold short pieces of material . I have cut very small pieces ,flat and round , this way ! I have drilled and taped several different holes to accommodate bigger material . Try it , You'll see that this is very convenient ,and fast .
here's a tip, get a piece of round stock same outside diameter as your work piece, turn one end down to the inside diameter of your work piece, make it as snug of a fit as you can and use it kinda like an extension of the short piece.
yes, that could definitely work for sure
I just bought one of those light duty bandsaws and the vice won't hold a short piece but this vid has given me an idea on how to get the vice to grip and support short pieces......thanks for your time.
Do you have a picture of what you did? I need some help on cutting small pieces
Used to cut on a bigger industrial saw at a fab shop. No secret used to keep extra pieces around of same material around 3 foot long push tight to the piece your cutting. And use a cheap piece of Foot and half long 2×4 on side close to the cut, tighten vice tight. Make sure blade guides are open enough. 2×4 will help guide blade. CUT SLOW.. blades get expensive.
We used to have turned mandrels if you like, wooden or aluminium the same I.d as the profile that you pushed into another piece of stock allowing them to be clamped more securely and if needs be just cut it to get the job done. You can always turn a new one when needed.
I have been using a two inch wide 6 inch piece of steel pipe cut in half to do the same thing. I than you for giving my shop idea validity.
thank you for sharing this, That used to really piss me off when I was welding and fabricating, it was such a pain to make the most of your materials, and have two crappy cuts at least every time you were working on your last available steel and you gotta waste time to true things up. Thanks, I won't forget this dog and wedge-ish wedge shape for this application for three point contact. Thanks a million, I will remember and share this, holy crap, brilliant. I used to make do with whatcha got on a schedule, but this is indeed the most helpful method for most salvage on cutting. Shit, saving this vid. Am working on doing small scale ironwork, smithing, and welding for myself and to support family and teach kids a trade they can use everywhere. this will help make the most of time and resources. Thank you again and again for this simple yet invaluable tool.
I've got the same Ellis bandsaw, a wonderful tool. It was intended to replace the cheap Taiwanese (pre-Chinese) saw I had. But I hung onto the old one and it does a pretty good job of cutting much shorter stock than the Ellis. Not nearly as nice or accurate a cut, but I'm glad I kept it. Still, I appreciate the idea you showed and will put it to use in the future. Thank you.
We have the same saw at work sometimes I used a piece of 2x4” wood works good also because the wood will compress into your stock and keeps it from slipping
Good tip , I can see “many” adaptations of this for cutting small stock and “parting things out.”
I remember the part you were talking about. Someone on PM was selling them several years back. I can't remember what they made them out of, it was like spring steel.
Actually on second thought, I think it was sections cut out of large diameter tubing.
Right thats kind of what it looked like, some large diameter heaving wall tubing, guessing when you cut it has a spring effect to it.
You've got a BEAUTIFUL Bandsaw Brother! It's a Beast & a work of art! Thanks for Sharing the tips! Have A Super Week!.....Gus
I always wondered why my steel supplier had those odd pieces of channel and split pipe laying under the saw until I finally asked and they told me about this, 40 years ago.
A price of the same stock butted against the price to cut will allow a few more cuts. And a price off flat stock between the vice and price will help also.
Cool, I've been trying to figure this out for some stock I was trying to cut today. Thanks!
My steel supplier is PISSED that you made this video.
lol, i knew this clickable title would draw you in!
clickable title only draws in *thumb downs*
You think your steel supplier is pissed? My steel supplier has a contract out on me.
What i do understand is why someone would want to subscribe to this channel maybe if i watched i might find out WHY??????
To much BULLSHIT to be interested.
The comments are more interesting than the video,s
I'm a steel supplier and I'm LIVID!!!
We do something simlar, but use a piece of flat bar to bridge the gap between the spacer and the part to be sawn. Our steel supplier doesn't give fat baby's butt apparently, because we haven't been killed yet.
I just use a piece of soft timber like Pine from a shipping pallet. It’s free, and easy, disposable, and it works.
What is most upsetting to me is that over 100,000 people watched this Where is the mail in rebate for stupid pills?
I would just add that you may be better off raising the contact point above centre so you're not at risk of the part jumping out and bending the blade. Otherwise, it's a sound method. Cheers!
I generally just weld a piece of cheap black pipe to the shorter stock and saw right up to the weld line using every last piece of the expensive steel.
I knew it was a misleading title but I still clicked on it. I am weak.
Great idea. Been cutting for a long while and never thought of that.
-Jonathan
You ramble too much
1 1/2" flat stock on 2 1/2" round stock leaves a very small contact point which rotational force of the band saw could break. Just like clamping in the vise. Just a small point of contact.
So from crazy chop saw to, advance fab shop tools, techniques never really change...
3 inch round pipe sitting on 3 inch flat bar in saw. Tack each end of round pipe to flat bar. Vice grabs flat bar and cuts pipe anywhere! In half to a 1mm sliver!
Stay and watch saw to save flatbar for reuse.
i have some large (120mm od 10mm wall) ally tube that ive cut a section off and cut in half, i also use it for clamping on my mill, makes a very good adjustable clamp.
This is a good trick, something I learned from an old timer to cut really short peices of square bar
I used a piece of 3/4 or 1” wall 6” or 8” pipe and cut off a 1” to 1 1/4 “ piece and then cut that in half then you have two holders and that’s all you need it works great
Great tip Gary ! Thank you for passing it on !! Be safe my friend and God bless you !!!!!! Eddy
Thanks for the tip, that’s a really helpful way of creating less waste.
Make sure your triangle piece is at least slightly thicker than the centerline of your tube or clamping it down will cause it to push the tube up and out of the vice!
On your vice, why not add a plate to the jaw that extends over close to the blade? Then you don't have to move the vice closer, but can still clamp on short pieces.
Thank you I've been wondering how to get around that issue as well and reduce wasted material due to not being and to cut past a certain point on a piece cz I can't clamp it.
Might pay you to put a nice radius on the bit thats up against the vice jaw to stop it from marring the jaw over time Gary,
sweet idea and saw.
definitely a good thought thank you sir
You could always just weld a extra piece of stock to the end and cut it right down to the last few 16th's...
great point, thanks!
st170ish hillarys steel mill henchmen are sourcing your IP address as I type and not long from now you will have an accident. Cause of death, natural causes, 3 to the back of the head. But at this point what does it matter anyways??
simple :
first off . . .spray the metal with some rubber spray, or use flex tape.
put some old piece of rubber on the stock brace, to hold the item still.
1.) get a metal rod , same as the one you are trying to cut.
2.) get an insert of same size as the internal bore is.
3.) weld the insert in the rod to be used as a helper .
4.) grind off the left over flashing stubbs to make a nice smooth surface.
5.) finally , insert the helper rod that has the insert into the piece that is going to be cut.
problem solved for keeping the short item in check.
That's a good idea. You need "on blade" coolant to keep your blade cool and make it last longer.
Actually the saw i have is an Ellis saw, specifically designed to be dry saws, its kind of their selling point. Blades last along time as is.
ONE OF THE FIRST THING I LEARNED AT WORK IN THE MACHINE SHOP 27 YEARS AGO
For cylinders just use 1-1/2" by 1-1/2" angle iron where you can actually cup the cylinder and better ensure a square cut.
I don't have a band saw, will this work on my drill press?
Yes it will work on the drill press. This is a common trick that everyone comes up with before seeing this video. Its common sense and nothing to go around yapping on CZcams about.
NO!!! DON'T DO IT!!!! You are putting steel companies out of business with this "Secret"
I usually tack weld it to another piece of stock. Simple and works and the best part it doesn't take more than 1 min. to make a video about it.
Not to be negative but that is not a secret for anyone who has ever worked in a machine shop.
Tip....... I didn't see any coolant system? Misting unit maybe? If not , it would make your blades last ten times longer and your material would be cool ( less stress on material, if that is an issue).
I use a flood coolant on my main saw and mist on my small saw. And, no ,things don't rust if you use decent mixes.....been doing it for over 30 years.
Toolman, with all due respect the bandsaw manufacturer (Ellis) specifically states to use the model in the vid with no lubricants. I have the same saw and it works beautifully dry.
One point of pressure. Right before that you said 3 points. You have two points, get a v block going to establish 3 points. And your just now learning about putting a peace of drop on the other end? I'll subscribe! Rolingmetal!
Ellis Saws are 2nd to none. They are the best!!
Attach a strip of emery cloth to the fence on the back, helps stop slippage.
The usual solution is to take half of the outer race from a large truck axle bearing (1.25 ton+) or use half of a ring cut from well casing (6" to 12" od x 1/2" wall).
why would my steel guy be pissed?
when i did use a bandsaw, those drops got turned into valuable parts in the lathe. they were never wasted. much more valuable than the piece of drop.
but I use a coldsaw, and the vise jaw runs up within 1/2" of the blade.
still dont see why the steel suppliers wouldnt want me to see this
Great trick! ....I never miss a chance to "pump" my Roll In saw. If you ever come across a good deal on one....you'll be pleasantly surprised!
3 points, use V-Blocks !
Neat clamping tip.
Not sure if you're just playing, or trying something out, so I'll share my feedback: If title becomes a trend, I'll likely unsub like I did with Wranglerstar. I know CZcams tends to optimize for that stuff, but many people can't stand it, and don't want to reward it.
i understand what your saying about unsubbing, if you do, i would understand, best wishes
I, too, had to unsub on Wranglestar. He was the worst I have ever heard on talking a lot and saying absolutely nothing. I don't think I'll unsub on this guy though. His ideas are rather handy.
As a creator they're given basically no choice but to do titles like this to get any sort of support from the algorithm these days, I do agree that wranglerstar has gone over the top with the sell out skewd product reviews and corporate pandering though.
Thanks man! I was fighting this same problem just last night trying to cut some short square tubing on my Evo. chop saw... the vice works fine except when it comes to short pieces, now I have something to try. (Click baity? yeah, but I did learn something that I can really use! I usually do when I watch your videos. Thanks for sharing all that you do Gary!
Thanks a lot man, Tampa Bay Steel has closed up shop and has a closed sign at the gate and they printed a link to this video at the bottom of the sign....WTF
OMG !!!!!!!! Look at all that space you have ... wow!
Hey Ramsey, I have an idea for you. You know if you use a Exhaust pipe expander the right size to fit inside the hole of the peaces you cut, you can slide 2 of them over the expander and leave a little bit out to stick in the peace that needs cutting and tighten the expander up tight. Then use your clamp you always use.
Excellent points you made , thanks man
Your sure welcome my friend
I added an extension to my Ellis on the face of the vice jaw with 16 ga. which extends to the vice back distance...an L shaped piece, fastened to the face, wider than the jaw which interferes, if that makes sense.
I do similar things like this on my wood cutting miter saw as well as on my cutoff saw, which is just a miter saw with a metal cutting blade in it.
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man me too
If you tack weld it to the back stop you can get even closer.
Love a good shop hack. Thanks!
Very simple and effective.
Steel companies don't want you looking at Machinist 101 textbooks? This trick is even older than I am!
Don't do much metal work; however, from an 'outsider's view, I thought is was a great idea. Easy fix for a frustrating problem. Hal
you could just tack weld the small piece to a big piece of the same diameter
Can you show us how to properly cut a PBnJ on the bandsaw? Hurry up, I'm hungry!!
Steel companies HATE him because of this one SIMPLE trick
I'm using this idea, thanks for posting.
Awesome, hope it works for you, thanks for watching
My steel company is fucking pissed now, thanks chuck
hahahaha i like it!
Rocket science at its finest.
I just tack weld of cuts 2gether, never had an issue cutting
a block of sacrificial wood between the vise face and the work might hold the work in place
good point for sure
Great tip, cuts look really clean, what blades are u using? Thanks
Why would suppliers give a shit if you do this?
Nice tip Gary.
That's a cool trick. Thanks for sharing it. I'll have to use it sometime
Yip, not sure why steel companies wouldn't want me to know this...
I bet getting any type of yes or no answer about something from you takes forever
Wow.... I can't fuckin believe it took you that long to explain absolutely nothing ... thank you
the triangular brace you put in there should contact the dom in the center in order to be secure. i get it, using a cutoff or whatever is laying around tho.
You over thinking it,Just use a 6 inch piece of angle iron to lay up against it. You wont have to worry about the stock you are cutting jumping out the top.
Have the exact same Bandsaw in our shop except I have a better way to clamp short pieces so they do not move.
I think the point of vlogging is to tell something in the most round about long winded answer possible, trying to cover all bases so anyone can get the idea. Not really my style. I like as few words as possible.
Thanks, this will be VERY helpful and money saving!
You can do the same thing with a ring of pipe cut in half so it forms a c shape.
This is band saw cutting 101. I learned this about 30 years ago.
Could u not sticks piece of round stock inside just back from where u want to cut through both parts and acheave a solid clamp I am just saying I don't use a band saw at all but I think I could see that working
Yes, but if its your only piece of that size you need something that can take up the slack of one side, which is where 3 points of pressure come in
Cool