Jon, thanks for this video. I'm also installing a delta shower pan (with foam weight support on the bottom). Initially, I was arguing with myself on how I should install this. Instructions say to use mortar if floors not level. As you suggested, I don't see why I couldn't use leveler, and then install! Lots of great tips in this video. Thanks again!
Leveler is the same thing as mortar just a different product accomplishes the same thing if you're good at it so do whatever you're comfortable with just make the floor perfectly level and it'll be awesome
No you do not fill the hole in ever if it was a concrete slab it would stay a hole and if it's a wood floor it stays a hole that's just where you put the plumbing it works out perfectly fine also no you do not need to glue down the base is being held down by a Fastener at every single stud And the plumbing drain connection and then you seal the pan to the walls when they're done and then you seal the front of the pan to the floor when it's done in the front so water doesn't get between the shower pan and floor seam With all that that thing is locked in for life
We bought the Delta 400 base 48" x 34" with plastic grid underneath and Deltas 3 piece surround, directions say I don't need mortar under the base of course after I already bought 2 bags. Question, can I sheetrock the walls like in your video and then use redgard on the sheetrock to seal for application of the 3 piece surround? In addition, those walls you put up looks awesome, having 2nd thoughts on this 3 piece unit now after watching your video. What is that material you installed on the walls, I couldn't understand the description of the name of the wall material. Great video, thanks for the details.
Did you fill in the area in the floor around the drain you installed before putting the pan down? I'm assuming you did to maintain level support under the base, but thought I'd ask. Also, the installation instructions say to use adhesive under the shower pan if the floor is level...would you recommend that as well? Thanks!
John great video and love the cardboard trick. I have the same situation w a basement “knock out” that goes below the concrete. The way I read the instructions that come w the base, and I have reached out to delta, is there can only be a five in hole max around the drain. If you leave the void in the knock out, won’t that void the warranty? It seems that would be the place that needs the most support, and it worries me to leave that open. Customer service was pretty vague and unhelpful. They just sent me back the couple of paragraphs from the manual!!! Haha. Any thoughts? Are my concerns unfounded?
Yeah get everything else as supported as possible whichever way you decide to do it and don't worry about that it never breaks through right there when every where else is solid very few people stand right in the drain you always stand back a few inches and it's solid there If it was a giant hole way bigger than that you could always put a shower extension on the head so people are forced to stand back one foot from the edge
This was the best video I have ever watched Thank you so much - I’m concerned about my concrete slap opening because I needed to chisel approximately 4 inches off it in order to get a sawzall underneath the slab to cut a brass pipe - Can I possibly just pack it down with the dirt - I would love to be able to send you a video
If you are referring to the hole in the drain area No Nobody stands on the drain If the drains in the middle of the pan then yes you should get a secure as possible But if it's on the left or the right side then it doesn't matter nobody gets that close to the wall when they're taking a shower You want to mainly secure everywhere that people are going to be stepping
Have you had any leaks or deterioration using the AMP product on the drain seal? Delta won't give me a firm answer on what to use. What did you use to seal the base to the subfloor?
AMP is the ticket until further notice the silicone just will not stick to acrylic at all and AMP seems to stick I set all my bases in foam I have other videos that show that It works perfectly
Jon, kindly, ¿what is the product you used on the walls, please? It looks marvelous. And the faucet with the magnetic attach of the hand wand, please share the brand and where to get it, if possible, please. Thank you much. (I absolutely love the 'no mortar' setting. Excellent job, Delta. Kohler, please take note). Thank you for making and posting this video.
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Royale-36-in-x-60-in-x-80-in-11-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Bathtub-Shower-Wall-Surround-in-Calacatta-White-SSK60367831CW/304669705
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: www.homedepot.com/p/MOEN-Brecklyn-Single-Handle-6-Spray-Tub-Shower-Faucet-w-Magnetix-Rainshower-in-Spot-Resist-Brushed-Nickel-Valve-Included-82611SRN/306659560
Thank you very much for this video. One thing that I don't understand is you showed that there is a gap between the house framing and the shower pan, but you didn't shim the gap before proceeding to hook up the drain. How do you accurately locate the drain until the pan is shimmed out?
@@JonehughesThank you for the response. At minute 3:40 you show the gaps between the wall stud and the shower pan. I am interested to know how you dealt with the gap, so that the pan is flush with the wood.
Okay I know what you're talking about now thank you for giving me the timeline on the video so I could look back at it anyway, you put in your plumbing based on your cardboard setup You don't worry about any of your studs at all You just get it hooked up to your base based on the way your base sitting the way you wanted it sitting okay you're the one that determines where it went and so we put it all the way up against the back wall and then slid it up against the plumbing wall and that's the way we decided it was best in there It could have been some other way if there are other confluences but there was not just the ones I presented on the video so that's the way we did it You may do it differently based on your situation but regardless once you've determine where your pans going to be once you sit it there dry fit and you determine that's the best place for it to be then you mark the cardboard once you mark the cardboard You are locked in you're going to set your plumbing based on the cardboard and then once you pull the cardboard off and make your connection the plumbing is all totally set and you're all dialed in then you're going to shim the pan to the wall and that just means use wood shims stick them in there till they're nice and tight and everything's perfect throw a screw through it after you pre-drill the hole and then use an oscillating tool or sawzall or whatever oscillating tool is the most safe tool and cut off the extra shims and then your wallboard or whatever you're going to use for your subpanel will go right down to the shower base flange if I didn't make myself really clear here feel free to ask another question brother I'm just answering what I think is your question
Pretty much nowadays all I do is go through home Depot and get Flexstone Nine piece or 11 piece depending on what I'm doing Whole bunch of flavors It is a fantastic product Super durable Totally trick looking Zero maintenance Fantastic Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Royale-36-in-x-60-in-x-80-in-11-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Bathtub-Shower-Wall-Surround-in-Calypso-SSK60367831CP/310289714
@@Jonehughes Thank you. I have the exact same project coming up and am having a hard time making a choice on both the wall system and the base, a 32 x 60 shower pan and some kind of wall system that can be installed quickly and get someone's bathroom back working in a short time frame and without breaking the bank. Edit, I think you helped me make a choice.
Oh wow, i didnt get that kinda of wall set up…i have the panels that snap together. I believe its pretty much the same thing but if you happen to know…could you send me a note…thank you so much and god bless you
Jon thank you for making this video. I want to know why did you not put the valve on the other side of the toilet so the user could turn on the water without contorting themself around and behind the toilet then doing the pretzel twist to get between the shower door and toilet? We just bought a house and I literally had to cut a stick with a hole it it so my wife can turn on the shower without standing in it and getting doused by cold water. I am not lying. I am here watching this video because I have to tear down a newly remodeled bathroom because someone did not have the sense to move the valve to the other wall. With all the hard work that went into installing the pan and the beautiful walls, does it not make sense to run ten feet of pex so the user can stand upright and behind the shower door until the water heats then enter the shower?
You are hilarious I agree with everything you said Almost always they are put like this though It doesn't make sense But also As far as for me Every time I put in a shower And have to run the line I install a water circulator So they have instant hot water And they have a wand So they can rinse off their junk much more easily So when you get in You simply grab the wand Hold it towards the wall Turn on the water Adjust to heat you like And put the wand back up on the rack Do yourself a favor Cut up the stick for firewood Install a water circulator Get a wand water pic or some other such one And your wife will be happy And with a happy wife it's a happy life
are you supposed to have the drain pipe flush with the floor or up 1/4 to a 1/2 inch? In one video you say keep it flush and another you say up 1/4 inch
Sorry Peter I'm old brother🤣😂 I usually leave that detail out because you never know if you're going to have to lift the floor through shimming or mortar or foam or leveling all kinds of different reasons for bringing up the base so I don't want to tell anybody any particular measurement what I would suggest is when you have your base perfectly level and set exactly where it's going to be when you're all finished have your shower drain already affixed and glued in to your shower pan and then set it down over the pipe it sets down easily because it doesn't have the rubber or lock ring in there yet and you want it to come up to about a quarter inch from the top of the drain so water will fly right over the drain edge and right into the pipe after you put in the Rubber and lock ring in
I called delta and they told me the drain has to be 1 3/4" above sub floor. Your video is very informative and was very helpful but we had a leak and I'm wondering if it was because we put the drain pipe flush with the floor.
Yeah... there's no way for that system to leak unless you didn't seal it correctly with the proper sealant the only one allowed now is amp by dap it used to be 3.0 but they did away with that product anything else will leak Because nothing else sticks to acrylic but besides that as soon as you went to put in your rubber and your lock ring you would have seen that your pipe was way too low and it would not have worked at all and so that would have told you to raise it up if that was the problem
You have to measure yours they're all different cuz it all depends on how level the floor is and how much you have to raise the pan to get the floor level after the floor is all leveled out and the pan is set on it and it's all level then measure up to the bottom of the pan
If you're putting on some kind of wall system and not an actual surround for the Delta classic 400 then your wall should come down up too but not past the top edge of the shower pan Watch my other videos it gives you a closer look
It sounds like you're not understanding what I'm saying and it's very possible I didn't make myself clear text me J O N 541-660-7805 I'll send pics and illustrations I can't do it through the CZcams replies it doesn't work I can't send you pics I can't send anything valuable I can only talk and verbiage is not doing it
If you're not going to text me so I can reply with pictures and stuff at least tell me that you know not to use silicone Silicone does not stick to acrylic at all Only three products stick to acrylic it used to be dap 3.0 but they no longer make that so it's dap amp And your panels go all the way down Past the drywall to rest on the shower pan
No there's absolutely no reason for it water cannot penetrate the classic 400 acrylic you'll notice if you get it it is so strong it is literally impervious to water
Jon, thanks for this video. I'm also installing a delta shower pan (with foam weight support on the bottom). Initially, I was arguing with myself on how I should install this. Instructions say to use mortar if floors not level. As you suggested, I don't see why I couldn't use leveler, and then install! Lots of great tips in this video. Thanks again!
Leveler is the same thing as mortar just a different product
accomplishes the same thing
if you're good at it
so do whatever you're comfortable with
just make the floor perfectly level
and it'll be awesome
No
you do not fill the hole in
ever
if it was a concrete slab
it would stay a hole
and if it's a wood floor
it stays a hole
that's just where you put the plumbing
it works out perfectly fine
also no
you do not need to glue down
the base is being held down by
a Fastener at every single stud
And the plumbing drain connection and then you seal the pan to the walls when they're done
and then you seal the front of the pan to the floor when it's done in the front
so water doesn't get between the shower pan and floor seam
With all that
that thing is locked in for life
Yes you can actually go all the way up to just where it comes out of the shower pan flush and level with that lip That's plenty
I finally found someone who knows how to do things….awesome job
Thank you Mr Jon you explained in great detail 👍 thank you sir
Best video ever, sir. Great job!
Very well explained, great tips@ ty 😊
Great video very well explained. Thank you so much
If you have any issues
let me know
I'll be glad to walk you through them
as you get moving
Good video-but if I had a dollar for every time you said “perfect”, I could have hired someone else to do the job. 😂
Wish I didn't read your comment first lol
We bought the Delta 400 base 48" x 34" with plastic grid underneath and Deltas 3 piece surround, directions say I don't need mortar under the base of course after I already bought 2 bags. Question, can I sheetrock the walls like in your video and then use redgard on the sheetrock to seal for application of the 3 piece surround?
In addition, those walls you put up looks awesome, having 2nd thoughts on this 3 piece unit now after watching your video. What is that material you installed on the walls, I couldn't understand the description of the name of the wall material. Great video, thanks for the details.
Yes use mortar to make it perfectly secure and level and hard
I use expanding foam instead of mortar but to each his own
Did you fill in the area in the floor around the drain you installed before putting the pan down? I'm assuming you did to maintain level support under the base, but thought I'd ask. Also, the installation instructions say to use adhesive under the shower pan if the floor is level...would you recommend that as well? Thanks!
I have the exact same questions! @Jon Hughes
Me too
John great video and love the cardboard trick. I have the same situation w a basement “knock out” that goes below the concrete. The way I read the instructions that come w the base, and I have reached out to delta, is there can only be a five in hole max around the drain. If you leave the void in the knock out, won’t that void the warranty? It seems that would be the place that needs the most support, and it worries me to leave that open. Customer service was pretty vague and unhelpful. They just sent me back the couple of paragraphs from the manual!!! Haha.
Any thoughts? Are my concerns unfounded?
Yeah get everything else as supported as possible
whichever way you decide to do it
and don't worry about that
it never breaks through right there
when every where else is solid
very few people stand right in the drain
you always stand back a few inches
and it's solid there
If it was a giant hole way bigger than that you could always put a shower extension on the head so people are forced to stand back one foot from the edge
This was the best video I have ever watched Thank you so much - I’m concerned about my concrete slap opening because I needed to chisel approximately 4 inches off it in order to get a sawzall underneath the slab to cut a brass pipe - Can I possibly just pack it down with the dirt - I would love to be able to send you a video
If you are referring to the hole in the drain area
No
Nobody stands on the drain
If the drains in the middle of the pan then yes you should get a secure as possible
But if it's on the left or the right side then it doesn't matter nobody gets that close to the wall when they're taking a shower
You want to mainly secure everywhere that people are going to be stepping
It’s a right side drain - But I’m still concerned - I just realized I can’t send a picture photo response
Yes text me a video 541-660-7805
Or pics
Have you had any leaks or deterioration using the AMP product on the drain seal? Delta won't give me a firm answer on what to use. What did you use to seal the base to the subfloor?
AMP is the ticket until further notice the silicone just will not stick to acrylic at all and AMP seems to stick
I set all my bases in foam
I have other videos that show that
It works perfectly
Jon, kindly, ¿what is the product you used on the walls, please? It looks marvelous. And the faucet with the magnetic attach of the hand wand, please share the brand and where to get it, if possible, please. Thank you much. (I absolutely love the 'no mortar' setting. Excellent job, Delta. Kohler, please take note). Thank you for making and posting this video.
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:
www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Royale-36-in-x-60-in-x-80-in-11-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Bathtub-Shower-Wall-Surround-in-Calacatta-White-SSK60367831CW/304669705
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:
www.homedepot.com/p/MOEN-Brecklyn-Single-Handle-6-Spray-Tub-Shower-Faucet-w-Magnetix-Rainshower-in-Spot-Resist-Brushed-Nickel-Valve-Included-82611SRN/306659560
Thank you very much for this video. One thing that I don't understand is you showed that there is a gap between the house framing and the shower pan, but you didn't shim the gap before proceeding to hook up the drain. How do you accurately locate the drain until the pan is shimmed out?
I'm having a hard time following what you're saying brother I'd be glad to help you but I don't know what you're asking
@@JonehughesThank you for the response. At minute 3:40 you show the gaps between the wall stud and the shower pan. I am interested to know how you dealt with the gap, so that the pan is flush with the wood.
Okay I know what you're talking about now
thank you for giving me the timeline on the video
so I could look back at it
anyway, you put in your plumbing based on your cardboard setup
You don't worry about any of your studs at all
You just get it hooked up to your base
based on the way your base sitting
the way you wanted it sitting
okay
you're the one that determines where it went
and so we put it all the way up against the back wall and then slid it up against the plumbing wall and that's the way we decided it was best in there
It could have been some other way
if there are other confluences
but there was not
just the ones I presented on the video
so that's the way we did it
You may do it differently
based on your situation
but regardless
once you've determine where your pans going to be
once you sit it there
dry fit
and you determine that's the best place for it to be
then you mark the cardboard
once you mark the cardboard
You are locked in
you're going to set your plumbing based on the cardboard
and then
once you pull the cardboard off
and make your connection
the plumbing is all totally set and you're all dialed in
then you're going to shim the pan to the wall
and that just means
use wood shims
stick them in there till they're nice and tight
and everything's perfect
throw a screw through it after you pre-drill the hole
and then use an oscillating tool or sawzall or whatever
oscillating tool is the most safe tool and cut off the extra shims
and then your wallboard or whatever you're going to use for your subpanel will go right down to the shower base flange
if I didn't make myself really clear here feel free to ask another question brother I'm just answering what I think is your question
@@Jonehughes Thank you for the detailed response. I understand now.
What wall panels did you use? Were you satisfied with them? Thanks.
Pretty much nowadays all I do is go through home Depot and get
Flexstone
Nine piece or 11 piece depending on what I'm doing
Whole bunch of flavors
It is a fantastic product
Super durable
Totally trick looking
Zero maintenance
Fantastic
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:
www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Royale-36-in-x-60-in-x-80-in-11-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Bathtub-Shower-Wall-Surround-in-Calypso-SSK60367831CP/310289714
@@Jonehughes Thank you. I have the exact same project coming up and am having a hard time making a choice on both the wall system and the base, a 32 x 60 shower pan and some kind of wall system that can be installed quickly and get someone's bathroom back working in a short time frame and without breaking the bank.
Edit, I think you helped me make a choice.
Oh wow, i didnt get that kinda of wall set up…i have the panels that snap together. I believe its pretty much the same thing but if you happen to know…could you send me a note…thank you so much and god bless you
Yeah the Walls are the flexstone products at home Depot there's 21 different styles they are totally awesome
Jon thank you for making this video. I want to know why did you not put the valve on the other side of the toilet so the user could turn on the water without contorting themself around and behind the toilet then doing the pretzel twist to get between the shower door and toilet?
We just bought a house and I literally had to cut a stick with a hole it it so my wife can turn on the shower without standing in it and getting doused by cold water. I am not lying. I am here watching this video because I have to tear down a newly remodeled bathroom because someone did not have the sense to move the valve to the other wall.
With all the hard work that went into installing the pan and the beautiful walls, does it not make sense to run ten feet of pex so the user can stand upright and behind the shower door until the water heats then enter the shower?
You are hilarious
I agree with everything you said
Almost always they are put like this though
It doesn't make sense
But also
As far as for me
Every time I put in a shower
And have to run the line
I install a water circulator
So they have instant hot water
And they have a wand
So they can rinse off their junk much more easily
So when you get in
You simply grab the wand
Hold it towards the wall
Turn on the water
Adjust to heat you like
And put the wand back up on the rack
Do yourself a favor
Cut up the stick for firewood
Install a water circulator
Get a wand water pic or some other such one
And your wife will be happy
And with a happy wife it's a happy life
What kind of wall is that
are you supposed to have the drain pipe flush with the floor or up 1/4 to a 1/2 inch? In one video you say keep it flush and another you say up 1/4 inch
Sorry Peter
I'm old brother🤣😂
I usually leave that detail out
because you never know if you're going to have to lift the floor through shimming or mortar or foam or leveling
all kinds of different reasons for bringing up the base
so I don't want to tell anybody any particular measurement
what I would suggest is
when you have your base perfectly level and set exactly where it's going to be
when you're all finished
have your shower drain already affixed
and glued in to your shower pan
and then set it down over the pipe
it sets down easily
because it doesn't have the rubber or lock ring in there yet
and you want it to come up to about a quarter inch from the top of the drain
so water will fly right over the drain edge and right into the pipe
after you put in the Rubber and lock ring in
I called delta and they told me the drain has to be 1 3/4" above sub floor. Your video is very informative and was very helpful but we had a leak and I'm wondering if it was because we put the drain pipe flush with the floor.
Yeah...
there's no way for that system to leak
unless you didn't seal it correctly
with the proper sealant
the only one allowed now is
amp by dap
it used to be 3.0
but they did away with that product
anything else will leak
Because nothing else sticks to acrylic
but besides that
as soon as you went to put in your rubber and your lock ring
you would have seen that your pipe was way too low
and it would not have worked at all
and so that would have told you to raise it up
if that was the problem
How high should the 2 inch pipe stuck up past the cardboard?
You have to measure yours they're all different cuz it all depends on how level the floor is and how much you have to raise the pan to get the floor level after the floor is all leveled out and the pan is set on it and it's all level then measure up to the bottom of the pan
@@Jonehughes so up to bottom of pan once all else checks out?
How do you put the drywall on once the pan is installed
If you're putting on some kind of wall system
and not an actual surround for the Delta classic 400
then your wall should come down
up too but not past
the top edge of the shower pan
Watch my other videos it gives you a closer look
So the drywall comes to top of the flange and then as well as a panel surround and then just caulk around like you would a regular tub?
It sounds like you're not understanding what I'm saying and it's very possible I didn't make myself clear text me J O N 541-660-7805
I'll send pics and illustrations
I can't do it through the CZcams replies
it doesn't work
I can't send you pics
I can't send anything valuable
I can only talk
and verbiage is not doing it
If you're not going to text me so I can reply with pictures and stuff at least tell me that you know not to use silicone
Silicone does not stick to acrylic at all
Only three products stick to acrylic
it used to be dap 3.0
but they no longer make that
so it's dap amp
And your panels go all the way down
Past the drywall
to rest on the shower pan
So you don't have to use cement boards
No there's absolutely no reason for it water cannot penetrate the classic 400 acrylic you'll notice if you get it it is so strong it is literally impervious to water
22:47 OOPS! LOL
You never talked about how you fixed the natural gap in the back of the pan
What questions did you have brother if I didn't answer something I'd be glad to
Text me at 541-660-7805 with pics if you have them
@@Jonehughes ty
The natural gap between the stud he talks about at 4:26 says to use a shim
We just had a walk on shower and have a lot if flex, so it creaks, pretty disappointing
That should definitely never happen
i wish yo vido the seat great jop sorry for my spaling
Go to my page and you can see five or six different ones