INSTALL METAL ROOFING Helping my son install metal roof on his double decker swing set for the twins. Tips on Installing #diy #shorts #metalroofs #MaxKendallMetalRoofing
Manufacturer of steel siding here. You are 100% correct on over tightening fasteners. But one thing you are doing wrong is using an impact gun. Impacts will induce oil canning on some panels. Best to use a variable speed drill with correct settings to avoid the potential. Just my $0.02….. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for this post!! As a retired wood shop teacher. Very few people use a tool to its maximum capacity. A drill has drive settings. Take a test piece and set your drill’s drive clutch as desired. It will make you more exact, every screw driven the exact same. Also makes you faster and more efficient.
The metal roof dilemma, do you screw the flat or the ridge? In hot climates, like Florida, that rubber gasket will last about 10 to 15 years. If you screw on the ridge, setting the torque on your drill will diminish the risk of crushing the crown, the surface contact is less. Screwing down on the flat, provides greater hold. However, the risk for leaks is imminent after the rubber washers dry out. Speaking from my own experience. Ive found, screwing on the crown creates a downward hole. Once the washer dries out, there remains a gap, a rounded V, but the screw serves as an umbrella. Heavy storms, water will get in. Screwing on the flat just leaves a gap of about 1/32" once the washer dries out. If only someone could come up with a truly sun resistant washer!! Either way, crown or flat, once the washer dries out, the seal is no more. I have a metal roof on my home. I intent to have the screws replaced in about 15 years. Currently replacing the metal roof on my shed. I plan on laying some tylek paper on the plywood, then tar paper on the plywood. My strip boards treated, I cover the top with folded piece of tar paper 4" wide, tacking it down with a staples, then the metal. Tar holds up pretty good, tends to Crack and dry, holds a seal as the years go by. I assume the washers are going to fail! Ill probably run a bead of roofing tar between the sheets. It's time consuming but do-able for a shed. I've taken down a few old metal roofs, learned much from what I've found.
There is no dilemma, if you want your roof to leak less you only screw the ridges, anybody that says otherwise is not worth taking any notice of period.
You should always place screws in the flat and the rib. Flat- metal to wood screws. Ribs - metal to metal screws. Never screw a metal sheet straight down in plywood, should always have a lava or hat track. If hat track is used it will be metal to metal screws. If you replace a metal roof over another Metal roof "ALWAYS" Hat track.
@@roanusoft36 Screws should be on the ridges. Don't worry you will face a leak very soon when the rubber washer life end. If u had put screws on the ridge even after the life of the washer end, it won't leak.
@@gerryfernandez8679 lies flats are the manufacturers recommended fastening. They say screwing the flat make a better connection with the roof. Please stop spreading misinformation
some brands that's how it goes other brands it could void the warranty always check manufacturer specs or any leaks are on you otherwise they cover anything that leaks under defects.
This is manufacture specifications for most r-panel products. At least here in usa. I understand its a great spot for a leak but we have to install how they say or they wont warranty it.
It's also to do with the climate here in north America. Longest screw we get is 2" and when screwed into the rib it will move back and forth loosening faster when the temps swing from +40c to -40c because it's not fully seated. Ribs act more like and expansion joint. If you screw it in the cold it will dimple the rib when it get hot in the summer, screw it in the summer and the rib will shrink in the winter. The flat never moves or loosens
Metal barn sheet steel is designed to screw through the ridge. Not the flat! There are ridges on both sides, one is a little smaller than the other. One over-laps the other. You start from side and move to the other. It's stronger and increases the force the sheet to the surface your securing the sheet too. The only screws in the flat can be at the ends.
Everyone knocking the screw pattern, notcie he's at the eave and that is the exact manufacturer recommended screw pattern for 9-36 panel which is what looks like he's using.
@@nevales I think it was in the mid-teens, but you'll need to fine tune that as it will depend on the lumber you're screwing into. Softer board get a lower number; higher for harder. Once you find it, most will be fine but an occasional one will need a little tightening or loosening
Don't use impact driver. Normal battery drill set on 2 or 3 depending on the brand will do the job without worrying, alternatively I have seen a Makita impact driver that, can be adjusted to low torque. Writing from UK. Thanks for video
For screw placement it depends on the manufacturer. Some say on the ribs and others say in the flat. Follow your manufacturers install instructions; not the ass hats that take instructions from one product and use it to install all others.
Thank you for your comments. So many people are telling me how I'm doing it wrong. I buy my panels straight from the manufacturer and I'm installing the way they say. Thanks for watching !!!
@@superdinmt yeah that's how most people i've seen does it however i have seen some who don't pre drill and do just fine, but yes i do agree pre drilling makes a world of difference especially when your roofing on an angle.
What about when metal doesn't seat to wood i bring it down and then back off a lil bc I ran into when I walked on it a couple days later the metal was bouncing
I did screw on the ridge, but so many are told un these videos to screw on the flat and low, water flow down and there is less real-estate on the high part of the ridge
Depends on the manufacturer. Some say on the ribs and others say in the flat. Follow your manufacturers install instructions; not the ass hats that take instructions from one product and use it to install all others.
I build awnings like this on the ground, I’ve never seen someone use string to line up their screws. fuck a square and making a perfect notch everywhere lmao
So what it is washer are not like old ones there not rubber. Think about this let's say night temp was 60 day temp gets up to 80 metal roof temp is probably over 100 so metal has atleast 40 degree temp swing. Metal moves alot an leaks on screws metal roof are good screws suck
My supplier is just over $3.00 Lin. ft. and the panels are 3 ft. wide. I built a 12 ft. by 48 ft. lean to for just under $2000.00 total in counting all materials.The project you see here on swing set for that metal and screws was around $400.00
Stopped using two piece screws nearly 20 years ago. If the budget won’t allow for one piece (capped head) SFS / ZAC screws that trap and protect the washer, I decline the project. JS
Those will eventually leak no matter how you install them. They make a screw with a cap over the washer. It keeps you from over tightening the screw and protects the washer from the weather
Metal ROOFS, not ROOVES. Use a drill driver with a reliable clutch, not an impact driver. Let the drill clutch set the screw. An impact driver requires perfect trigger control and consistent battery power. You create a dimple in the roof with an impact driver.
Those screws do not last anyways, you should be caulking them when you are done,. I Chase roof leaks for a living and the biggest problem of a metal roof are the rubber washers are gone and weathered and water is going down the screw hole. our solution is to use a fat to screw with a bigger, rubber washer, and then caulk it.
That is why you buy the new screws out with a metal bell over the rubber washer. The rubber washer can’t be over tightened and it’s UV protected. Perfect example of a contractor that does not keep up with new products on the market to give the consumers a better product.
Manufacturer of steel siding here. You are 100% correct on over tightening fasteners. But one thing you are doing wrong is using an impact gun. Impacts will induce oil canning on some panels. Best to use a variable speed drill with correct settings to avoid the potential. Just my $0.02….. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for this post!!
As a retired wood shop teacher.
Very few people use a tool to its maximum capacity.
A drill has drive settings.
Take a test piece and set your drill’s drive clutch as desired.
It will make you more exact, every screw driven the exact same.
Also makes you faster and more efficient.
Thank you two for these comments 👍👨🔧
Make sure you pre drill
And we can change gears for impact drivers for a reason
You are like 15 years late for problem that doesn't exist
The metal roof dilemma, do you screw the flat or the ridge?
In hot climates, like Florida, that rubber gasket will last about 10 to 15 years. If you screw on the ridge, setting the torque on your drill will diminish the risk of crushing the crown, the surface contact is less. Screwing down on the flat, provides greater hold. However, the risk for leaks is imminent after the rubber washers dry out.
Speaking from my own experience. Ive found, screwing on the crown creates a downward hole. Once the washer dries out, there remains a gap, a rounded V, but the screw serves as an umbrella. Heavy storms, water will get in. Screwing on the flat just leaves a gap of about 1/32" once the washer dries out.
If only someone could come up with a truly sun resistant washer!!
Either way, crown or flat, once the washer dries out, the seal is no more.
I have a metal roof on my home. I intent to have the screws replaced in about 15 years. Currently replacing the metal roof on my shed. I plan on laying some tylek paper on the plywood, then tar paper on the plywood. My strip boards treated, I cover the top with folded piece of tar paper 4" wide, tacking it down with a staples, then the metal. Tar holds up pretty good, tends to Crack and dry, holds a seal as the years go by.
I assume the washers are going to fail! Ill probably run a bead of roofing tar between the sheets. It's time consuming but do-able for a shed. I've taken down a few old metal roofs, learned much from what I've found.
Use DURETAN PENNSYLVANIA OVER THE SCREW OR 3M 5200 MARINE POLYURETAN
There is no dilemma, if you want your roof to leak less you only screw the ridges, anybody that says otherwise is not worth taking any notice of period.
I put mine on the top ridge, it's been 28yrs and no leaks, water always flows downhill
That's manufactured specs to screw roofs on the rib and walls on the flat part.. plus less water runs on the ridge , less chance they'll leak ..
i follow manfacture specs not all roofing goes on rib some brands go in flats to provide better wind rating @@cassidyalbert6622
You should always place screws in the flat and the rib.
Flat- metal to wood screws.
Ribs - metal to metal screws.
Never screw a metal sheet straight down in plywood, should always have a lava or hat track. If hat track is used it will be metal to metal screws.
If you replace a metal roof over another Metal roof "ALWAYS" Hat track.
I think this is the right way. Because I installed our roof years ago and no leaks whatsoever.
@@roanusoft36 Screws should be on the ridges. Don't worry you will face a leak very soon when the rubber washer life end. If u had put screws on the ridge even after the life of the washer end, it won't leak.
Looks like leaks down the future, never screen in valleys always at high spots
Here in the Caribbean we install those screws on the crown not the flats
Makes sense
Neopreme under washer cap. Sun delamanates.will leak in about 3 to 5 years. Water runs in the flats, thats why you screw the ribs, lol
so you can dent all the ribs
Through that crown is the manufacturers recommended way.!
@@gerryfernandez8679 lies flats are the manufacturers recommended fastening. They say screwing the flat make a better connection with the roof. Please stop spreading misinformation
I always put my screws on the crown the raised part of the panels
some brands that's how it goes other brands it could void the warranty always check manufacturer specs or any leaks are on you otherwise they cover anything that leaks under defects.
Why are you installing the fixing screws in the pans of the sheets? This would be a compliance issue in Australia
This is manufacture specifications for most r-panel products. At least here in usa. I understand its a great spot for a leak but we have to install how they say or they wont warranty it.
I think its silly
@Goprotex2 that's bloody silly that the manufacturer says that.. but what warranty do you need on a metal roof that the screws would impact?
It's also to do with the climate here in north America. Longest screw we get is 2" and when screwed into the rib it will move back and forth loosening faster when the temps swing from +40c to -40c because it's not fully seated. Ribs act more like and expansion joint. If you screw it in the cold it will dimple the rib when it get hot in the summer, screw it in the summer and the rib will shrink in the winter. The flat never moves or loosens
Like this one right here next to it.
I was thinking the same thing!
Metal barn sheet steel is designed to screw through the ridge. Not the flat! There are ridges on both sides, one is a little smaller than the other. One over-laps the other. You start from side and move to the other. It's stronger and increases the force the sheet to the surface your securing the sheet too. The only screws in the flat can be at the ends.
You know the guy with a black nail,knows how to roof/frame.I have one myself that never grew back.
You answered meany questions. Thank you
Everyone knocking the screw pattern, notcie he's at the eave and that is the exact manufacturer recommended screw pattern for 9-36 panel which is what looks like he's using.
Yep 👍 most guys also put more screws on the bottom than in the field that's how we do it anyway
I’ve been told not to use impact but instead drill with settings impact can cause screw to back out overtime
yeah just like the one next too it lol
First thing I noticed 😂
I was looking for this
I put about 2000 of those today. I just set the torque adjusrment on my drill to not compress the washer. Easy peasey
On what se[ting?
@@nevales I think it was in the mid-teens, but you'll need to fine tune that as it will depend on the lumber you're screwing into. Softer board get a lower number; higher for harder. Once you find it, most will be fine but an occasional one will need a little tightening or loosening
drills have clutches, for automatic torque slip. impact drivers dont have that.
this man really puts the hammer to the finger
Lmao i got one worse on the same finger ahaha. Fucking slap stapler, didnt have enough angle😂😂😂
Very good tip, very true we had to fix a million leaks in our steel sided garage because of a 17 year old putting self tappers in
The best way to do it is with a regular drill not an impact. You can set the drill to set each one perfect evert time.
Hey Thanks for the info. I'll give that a try.
In a perfect world sure but you hit hard spots in wood…I prefer to do it by feel
@@bullfrog1807 me to most guys don't realize they're putting the screws in to tight.
The best way is pre dill the metal and use what ever you have drill or impact and but your foot next to the screw when you drive the screws
So when you install snow guards,metal you only screw threw the metal to hold,or all the way threw to wood?
They got a better gasket style one out for years now. Torque setting helps a lot.
Don't use impact driver. Normal battery drill set on 2 or 3 depending on the brand will do the job without worrying, alternatively I have seen a Makita impact driver that, can be adjusted to low torque. Writing from UK. Thanks for video
Set the clutch on your drill lighter and take a piece of metal and drive througha piece of scrap from the roofing metal you want to install
If you anchor him at the ridge, how does the roof stay anchored to the plywood?
Dewalt makes a 20v metal fastener gun. DCF624 versa clutch. And no its not the drywall one. Pretty sweet!
Over tightening also compromises the paint on the washer decreasing it’s lifespan
Is that the right place to screwdown metal roofing because here in the Caribbean we screwdown on the lip off the galvanized
Have you tried using a drill you can torque settings
By the looks of your nail
... Wrong nail, sir. Lol never gets old..
What do you do at the edge with the standing seams to prevent wasp n bees from getting in
Wow ang galing mo bosing
Adjust the clutch on your DRILL.
DON'T USE AN IMPACT DRIVER.
For screw placement it depends on the manufacturer. Some say on the ribs and others say in the flat. Follow your manufacturers install instructions; not the ass hats that take instructions from one product and use it to install all others.
Thank you for your comments. So many people are telling me how I'm doing it wrong. I buy my panels straight from the manufacturer and I'm installing the way they say. Thanks for watching !!!
@@ProjectNEXT1 you bet, thanks for sharing.
It really only depends on you wanting your roof to leak or not!
It’s a fact that water erosion on the rubber causes the roof to leak. If you want a leaky roof in 15 years, Screw it in the flat
If the rubber isn't completely compressed and flattened how do you know it's tight
What do use to make the hole?
In my area that would fail code on a roof they go in the peaks on walls they go in the valley
Whats the spec of sheet metal your using for the roof?
Thank You
Good job.
Dont use an impact. If you use a drill you can adjust the clutch and get a perfect bite every time.
What about putting silicone over all the screws?
If you don't put them in the wrong place you won't have to.
Use a drill not a driver and set your clutch as well
Whats string line for? Not needed whatsoever
Wondering the same thing..lol!!
It makes it easier to keep the screws in line so your not guessing.
@@ds--pu1tv all screw holes should pre drilled on the ground when they are in the stack from the shipper. Precisely drilled all at once.
@@superdinmt yeah that's how most people i've seen does it however i have seen some who don't pre drill and do just fine, but yes i do agree pre drilling makes a world of difference especially when your roofing on an angle.
Good for a out building , I prefer standing seam for homes.
Totally agree !!!!
What about when metal doesn't seat to wood i bring it down and then back off a lil bc I ran into when I walked on it a couple days later the metal was bouncing
Always screw the ribs on roof
I did screw on the ridge, but so many are told un these videos to screw on the flat and low, water flow down and there is less real-estate on the high part of the ridge
Depends on the manufacturer. Some say on the ribs and others say in the flat. Follow your manufacturers install instructions; not the ass hats that take instructions from one product and use it to install all others.
Never screw on flat!!!
Yep, that's the first thing anyone should learn before they install a coragated metal roof. Dont put any screws in the vally.
You should have pre-drilled in screw pattern
screw hole will drop water? why dont use screws on hill
good job
Thanks
Arent you supposed to screw the ridge?
I can't find warshers at the hardware store.
I build awnings like this on the ground, I’ve never seen someone use string to line up their screws. fuck a square and making a perfect notch everywhere lmao
yeah. don't under drive them either. it works both ways.
Bro. That nail tho
Serious question what is a warsher?
Install the screws on the top/crowns to avoid leaks
How?, seems fine either Way.
The screw to the right is way overtightened btw
Better off installing a hidden fastner snap-lock panel.
More money
Helps if you use a clutched screw guns instead of driver..
Why would u screw into the pan and not the rib
Because he knows what he’s doing.
Pre drill them sheets and you dont need the string to keep screws aligned
Facts
So what it is washer are not like old ones there not rubber. Think about this let's say night temp was 60 day temp gets up to 80 metal roof temp is probably over 100 so metal has atleast 40 degree temp swing. Metal moves alot an leaks on screws metal roof are good screws suck
Neoprene washer screws
Who flattened the one next to it? lol!
How much does one of these jobs cost for metal roofing?
My supplier is just over $3.00 Lin. ft. and the panels are 3 ft. wide. I built a 12 ft. by 48 ft. lean to for just under $2000.00 total in counting all materials.The project you see here on swing set for that metal and screws was around $400.00
Stopped using two piece screws nearly 20 years ago. If the budget won’t allow for one piece (capped head) SFS / ZAC screws that trap and protect the washer, I decline the project. JS
Thanks bro!
DO NOT screw through the pan (low point) , always the ridge (high point)
Why?
What shade nail polish is that? 😂
Lol. You already distorted the washer just by correctly installing it.
Let's be honest, ever screw on this type of metal roof is a potential leak, but not over driving extends the failure time!
Am I the only one who tried to blow off the metal shaving.
The screw to the right is way over tightened! 😂😂😂
Why those screws on flat? We don't do that
I see he gave himself a “nickey new guy!” lol ouch
Those will eventually leak no matter how you install them. They make a screw with a cap over the washer. It keeps you from over tightening the screw and protects the washer from the weather
Nice
Thanks
Bravo
That is where you put your screws
Set your driver so it doesn’t squish the gasket
Where did you get that designer finger nail?
A BIG CHUNK of concrete. That nail has still not fully healed yet but it's getting there
Metal ROOFS, not ROOVES. Use a drill driver with a reliable clutch, not an impact driver. Let the drill clutch set the screw. An impact driver requires perfect trigger control and consistent battery power. You create a dimple in the roof with an impact driver.
Warsher
@noahcooke01
I put warshers on my strews when I'm doin roovs too
Use a drill with a clutch and set it accordingly
Is correct
Like you overtightened the one to the right.
Smoked that finger some days ago 😂
Excellent use of the mason's line! Great job, Bubba.
Your lucky ive been drinkin.....cause being sober loosens my tongue
WA…..as in Washer ….its not a sauce …it’s a washer
Wow
You just used a rattle gun on a painted screw 😅 should be using a driver 🤙🏼
Those screws do not last anyways, you should be caulking them when you are done,. I Chase roof leaks for a living and the biggest problem of a metal roof are the rubber washers are gone and weathered and water is going down the screw hole. our solution is to use a fat to screw with a bigger, rubber washer, and then caulk it.
We use the better screws. No washer just a cone with rubber in it. Much better screw.
That is why you buy the new screws out with a metal bell over the rubber washer. The rubber washer can’t be over tightened and it’s UV protected. Perfect example of a contractor that does not keep up with new products on the market to give the consumers a better product.
When you install the screw there so the leaf will be stuck and cause water staged.. later a tree will be there.
Someone SMASHED HIS FINGER
That purple finger looks narly
That’s why you use a screw gun nottttt a impact
I ain’t trusting anyone who hits the wrong nail 😂😂🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
👉🔨