Daisy-chaining is deliberately made impossible, here is why. The EVSE signals its max rated current on the CP pin, while the cable indicates its max rating via a resistor between PP & PE in the connector. The vehicle restricts its charging speed to the lowest of the two. If you could daisy-chain cables, the vehicle would only detects the wire gauge from the cable closest to it, leading to potential overheating if a weaker cable is hidden between a stronger EVSE and a stronger cable. This isn't really a problem if you add one detachable cable to a tethered EVSE since the attached cable is already rated for the EVSE max current. Same for a granny cable. However on a non-tethered EVSE, the weakest cable should ABSOLUTELY be the one plugged to the car. If you want to check your cable max current, measure this resistor, 220Ω means 32A cables, or 680Ω means 20A.
if you cut off the front 11 mm of the male type 2 connector it will work (I've done it on my cable). You will lose the locking feature however. the control pilot pin (not the proximity pilot pin) is deliberately shorter to avoid daisy chaining of type 2 extension cables for the exact reasons you explained (no locking, possibly disconnecting while charging etc).
I have a question /suggestion: CCS cables have a fixed resistor inside the male socket between the PP-pin and Earth to tell the charging station how much current the cable (not the car) can handle; 220 OHM for 32A and 660 OHM for 20A, etc. So when you daisy chain two cables, the two resistors in the two cables are paralleled and the sensed resistance becomes lower, i.e. the charging station either thinks the cables can handle more current than they can, which likely not is a problem as your car draws as much as it always does, or the resistance simply lies outside the range expected by the charging station so it refuses to start?? The solution is to remove the PP-resistor in the extension cable, so it doesn't mess with the charging station, but that prevents the extension cable to work as single cable with a charging station. So if you want both functions, you need to install a switch, to disengage the PP-resistor when you use the cable as extension cord.
I have 2 6m cables that I want to daisy chain to a 12m cable. If I take 11mm off one connector and do this, when I charge from home will there be any added risk of damage to the car, charger or home? Or potentially overheating and fire? Basically is it safe!!??
@@Tore_Lund I just checked my cable : there is no PP wire along the cable, only PP/PE resistor looped IN the connectors on either end. So if you chain cables, the intermediate resistors are not doing anything. The station only sees the first one, the car only sees the last one.
Hi Jamie I saw your post about tethering 2 type 2 EC cables. I managed to get it working by using an angle grinder to trim the connector, works fine. Can send some pics if you’re interested.
As the video shows it won't work as an extension cable to add to another cable, but it will work for connecting an EV to a charging post socket. evbitz.uk/T2_T2_Cable_-_3P.html
czcams.com/video/Gg-RrAB-Sg0/video.html this is the one where he makes a female adapter which works with the Tesla destination charger. The one I referred to in my video was an earlier one from the same guy when he tried to use a different cable with the tethered Tesla charger, and that didn't work. Check out his channel, it's really good.
Yes, I've seen that done; it would work, but at the risk of the cable overheating due to the added length and resistance. It would also mean you'd lose the pin hole so your cable wouldn't lock in place in public charge points any longer.
Not many videos like this. Thanks for covering this subject. Thanks
Daisy-chaining is deliberately made impossible, here is why.
The EVSE signals its max rated current on the CP pin, while the cable indicates its max rating via a resistor between PP & PE in the connector. The vehicle restricts its charging speed to the lowest of the two.
If you could daisy-chain cables, the vehicle would only detects the wire gauge from the cable closest to it, leading to potential overheating if a weaker cable is hidden between a stronger EVSE and a stronger cable.
This isn't really a problem if you add one detachable cable to a tethered EVSE since the attached cable is already rated for the EVSE max current. Same for a granny cable.
However on a non-tethered EVSE, the weakest cable should ABSOLUTELY be the one plugged to the car.
If you want to check your cable max current, measure this resistor, 220Ω means 32A cables, or 680Ω means 20A.
if you cut off the front 11 mm of the male type 2 connector it will work (I've done it on my cable). You will lose the locking feature however. the control pilot pin (not the proximity pilot pin) is deliberately shorter to avoid daisy chaining of type 2 extension cables for the exact reasons you explained (no locking, possibly disconnecting while charging etc).
Thanks remmie1972. Your suggestion worked beautifully.
Hi, could you share any more details on this?
I have a question /suggestion: CCS cables have a fixed resistor inside the male socket between the PP-pin and Earth to tell the charging station how much current the cable (not the car) can handle; 220 OHM for 32A and 660 OHM for 20A, etc. So when you daisy chain two cables, the two resistors in the two cables are paralleled and the sensed resistance becomes lower, i.e. the charging station either thinks the cables can handle more current than they can, which likely not is a problem as your car draws as much as it always does, or the resistance simply lies outside the range expected by the charging station so it refuses to start?? The solution is to remove the PP-resistor in the extension cable, so it doesn't mess with the charging station, but that prevents the extension cable to work as single cable with a charging station. So if you want both functions, you need to install a switch, to disengage the PP-resistor when you use the cable as extension cord.
I have 2 6m cables that I want to daisy chain to a 12m cable. If I take 11mm off one connector and do this, when I charge from home will there be any added risk of damage to the car, charger or home? Or potentially overheating and fire?
Basically is it safe!!??
@@Tore_Lund I just checked my cable : there is no PP wire along the cable, only PP/PE resistor looped IN the connectors on either end. So if you chain cables, the intermediate resistors are not doing anything. The station only sees the first one, the car only sees the last one.
Thanks for sharing. I thought it would work... but since it doesn't - I won't be spending money for an extension cable
So helpful!
Hi Jamie
I saw your post about tethering 2 type 2 EC cables.
I managed to get it working by using an angle grinder to trim the connector, works fine.
Can send some pics if you’re interested.
Yes, it need two resistors on both pins going to live.
I tried to conect it yesterday failed
1.5 mm is not heavy duty extension cable! you require 2.5 mm cable
Do actual purpose made ones exist though?
Can you please share the link to buy the heavy duty extension cable you are showing in the video?
As the video shows it won't work as an extension cable to add to another cable, but it will work for connecting an EV to a charging post socket. evbitz.uk/T2_T2_Cable_-_3P.html
Could you please give a link to the guy who made an adapter for his bike?
czcams.com/video/Gg-RrAB-Sg0/video.html this is the one where he makes a female adapter which works with the Tesla destination charger. The one I referred to in my video was an earlier one from the same guy when he tried to use a different cable with the tethered Tesla charger, and that didn't work. Check out his channel, it's really good.
I read somewhere that someone cut 11 mm off the plug and then used the lead as an extension as well as at untethered wall units.
Yes, I've seen that done; it would work, but at the risk of the cable overheating due to the added length and resistance. It would also mean you'd lose the pin hole so your cable wouldn't lock in place in public charge points any longer.