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E55 Engine Rebuild - Part 6 (Head Install and Valve Timing Check)
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2018
- This part is about bolting the cylinder heads back on and checking the valve timing
Here's Alex's video for the service manual: • My New Flat Bottom, Al...
Man, awesome job! You talk fast enough that I don't ever need to skip ahead or speed up the video, lol. You've got patience and balls to do this project yourself!
Happy you trashed your engine, or else we would not have these wonderful videos. Keep up the good work!
Engine Rebuilding M113
Glad to see another professional technician using a torque wrench on all the proper bolts!
I barely can change an exhaust manifold and don't even own an e55 but damn this is like lessons from a god
It's awesome seeing someone who isn't afraid to tear into these engines. I just finished building my 5.0 m113, but I definitely didn't put as much care into my build as you lol.
I’m working on my 2005 cl 55 amg replacing all the bearings and Piston rings watching your video helps me a lot
this dude is a machine!...love his work, and how he explains and demonstrates.
Thanks for the great videos, you are doing an awesome job with your rebuild. I have a 113 engine in my 2001 CLK55, normally aspirated and this is helpful for should I ever have to break it down. Also, been sharing the oil tube issues with those I know that have the K engine and to be on top of that o-ring replacement on timely basis. Thanks again.
Well done. I am so impressed by your work and the detailed way you explain things.
Thank you for sharing these videos. You are doing great job!! Cannot wait for next parts!
I like watching your videos (even though I'm not gonna do anything similar by myself). I like how you explain every detail that matters.
Between you and Tasos, I'm wrench on my own AMG engine now! Thanks a ton.
Very nice and good video! Keep up the good work.
Greetings from Germany
hats off. quality work dude!
Loving this video, it's amazing proof of craftsmanship..
Awesome video as always!!!Waiting for the next one
I love this video series mate, well done! I learn a lot from you.
Great videos. The explanation and pacing is excellent. Thanks.
These videos are amazing. You’re a legend.
Excellent video ! Cheers from Argentina !
simply great video, well explained and everything done correctly and above all, how you explain, quickly without periods and commas :- ) simply unique.I like it. well done
*BEAUTIFUL, PRECISE WORK* Yes, valve cover video please!
I *love* this video -- thank so you much for making this!
Yet again very nice work....you know your stuff.
The twin spark 3 valve design was to reduce pollution, when that generation was release it was some of the cleanest burning engines produced.
Of course, having to rotate one camshaft per bank instead of two increases torque slightly across the rev range (very beneficial in the low range)
awesome bro! great job as always!
Again, really nice video! Thx for that
The chances of me actually working on an AMG engine are very slim, but your videos are so great that I'm simply enjoying watching/learning how it all goes together. Good work man, keep it up. Looking forward to see where this project goes.
Good video!
What a beautifully made engine. It makes my Ford v8 look like it belongs in a tractor.
This is legendary, im not much of a MB man, more of a BMW and have rebuilt my engine without any mechanical knowledge. Videos like these are GOLD for us amatures.
BTW this engine looks like a very simple and interesting design. I wonder if they will become the "swap of choice" in the future for those wanting a V8 Turbo
I think the AMG versions are still a little hard to find but the NA versions of this engine are cheap and easy to find. Would be perfect for V8 swaps
I can't wait to hear her crank! Please do make a valve cover video
After rebuilding mine I was quite surprised how simple these motors are. Then I rebuilt My ls1 haha man it was like going from leggo to duplo haha
Great vids, I especially liked the ones on suspension set up. On you next go round I suggest you get an oil surge tank it will help with oil starvation on a car that pulls a lot of G force in turns. Also Isolate the turbos oil system with in the trunk with an oil tank and the pump you use to return oil to engine. You can also use the old small oil cooler to regulate the turbos oil temp. It will take a load of the engines oil pump/system. Keep up the good work.
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Good content
I wonder why you didn't lap the valves? Another thing that you have to make sure when assembling the heads is to push the valve stem seals all the why down. You might even want to hammer them down. If you don't, they might come loose due to the movement of the valves. I learned this the hard way...
One small correction, for 113.980 and 981, the correct torque for rocker arm is: 15NM for M7*45bolt and 10NM+90degree for M7*84 bolt
Super !!!
Its always a good day when SK8215 posts a new video
BTW you should check out project binky. I think your technical side will enjoy it very much
Thanks, sure I'll search it
Great vid! Very clean work!
One question. There's some way to test the hydraulic lifters when on rockers (without dismantling all the camshaft), i.e. when the cylinder is in BDC, test them pushing to check if have oil pressure? I think I one or two could have gone bad.
I'm redoing the valve cover gaskets in a m112, so to take advantage of the situation 😅
Hi do you think I can just remove the bearing bridges to clean or replace the ticking hydraulic lifters without unloading the chain tensioner? Thanks
Hi.
Would you please let me know what part goes onto the rectangle port on the driver's side of the head?
I have a C55 with a M113 engine and can't figure out what covers that port. The intake manifold gasket left that port open.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Hello im doing the same engine. Quick question how do you know to make the piston to 40’ with out the reference of the crankshaft.
Hey brother! Can i use any universal engine stand for the M113k engine?
what is assembly lube used for? does it help prevent the bolts from coming out over time?
Will the m113k valve springs fit the na version?
My e55 is having timing issues, I replaced everything around the motor diagnosed the whole car, no knock etc..... my tuner set 25* timing and I only ever see only 13* no matter what I do could you please give me a idea? Thanks
Did you mention the M137? I swear that what I got. Simplest V12 you can get.
Hello, can you please tell me what is the valves angle for the intake and exhaust?
Some question about these being torque to yield. Having torque + angle is not a definite indicator. Specifying a max length is done on normal high tensile bolts. TTYL bolts will stretch significantly and the stretching is a form of work hardening. TTYL bolts will be one time use since they are taken beyond elastic limits where the bolt will be a fair amount longer than new length and the diameter of the bolt shank will be less than a new bolt. Having said that, it is never a bad idea to replace head bolts in aluminum thread engines due to high likelihood of corrosion between bolt and the aluminum block.
Good info. Yes, having an angle is not a definite indicator, its best to read through the documents to be sure which ones actually need to be replaced. I've heard from mechanics that you need to replace all the torque + angle ones every time. Its true for some bolts but not always true
@@xfmotorsports if there is a question replacing is safe. But the confusion comes from the older diesels with tty (I now realize autocorrect changed tty to ttyl a few times. LOL) were the earliest use of torque plus angle. In lots of cases t+a was adopted because it gets very consistent fastener forces where rough versus smooth threads make torque needed to get a bolt turned to get that fastener force be different for each bolt. Low torque doesn't get to the rough thread friction level and then you turn them the angle with no regard to the torque. The elongation by the same rotation amount sets the stretch and thus the force equally. Also robotic equipment can do torque + angle with little tool wear and high accuracy. Torsion bar force limiters on impact wrench tools can get to the low torque and then a sleeve drops over socket and locks out the torsion bar and then the socket is rotated the number of degrees monitored closely. Very cool equipment replacing someone swinging a torque wrench hundreds of times per day.
What brand of torque wrench did you use?
Hi, this is awesome footage. I’m about to change valve stem seal on my engine, which include remove the rocker arm, I noticed those bolt also need to be turned 90 degree after a specific torque, do you think it should be fine to reuse it or buy new bolts?
I would love to mate this to my 01E transmission in my audi B6 A4. It can fit a v8 (4.2 L 5V) and the torque of this monster plus decent HP (tickling 500hp) would make Quattro launches insane (Front LSD, Center Biased Rear Diff & lastly a Rear LSD). If only there was an adapter plate for the M113 to 01E....
Hi bro, could you please teach us how to install an oil pressure gauge on the M113k?
I hope you made your own plaque and signed your name on the engine. In keeping with AMG's one engine one assembler..
Amazing vid, bursting with knowledge and tisp! There's quite a few links on the service manual link you provided in the description. Do you mind providing the exact links for which manuals you bought?
This is the one I got: www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Mercedes/E_Class/2004-Mercedes_Benz-E55-AMG-Service-%252526-Repair-Manual-Software.html
What head gaskets did you use?
So if you say those bolts are for one use only, did you have to use another set of bolts AFTeR you’ve done plasti clearance check? For that surely U had to properly torque the bolts?
I am replacing my head gasket for my SL55 and was contemplating ARP head studs. The kits are quite expensive but I recently read that you can use 2 head stud kits for the Nissan sr20, do you know if that information is correct? Thank you for all the great content on the m113k , really helped me out!
Not sure. If you know the length of the studs and thread size you can find out. If the studs are slightly longer they would still work because there is enough clearance at the top
@@xfmotorsports Thank you for replying. I acctually decided to go with new oem bolts since I probably wont be needing to run super high boost to meet my power goal of 700hp.
Bro can I borrow your brain? My c55 amg cylinder 1 needs diagnosing you are a massive help! I'm just learning about all this stuff....Mercedes quoting $5k lol they dont even know the problem...
IS there any way you could replace the timing rail that goes through the head without having to take the head off? I am planning to do a timing kit replacement.
Thanks,
Not sure if the chain guides are going to slide out without removing the heads. You could try unbolting the studs the guides go on if that gives any extra space
Where did you download the service manual
That yellow points on chain is there any point today
You should work for AMG
To hell with that....AMG should work for HIM!! :)
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What kind/brand of torque wrench do you use? Thanks!!
I believe it was mastercraft. Just make sure it's calibrated which ever one you go with
Thank ya Sir!
Excellent videos just can't say that enough great job and thanks for bringing up the timing I've been looking for something on timing the m112 and you did it thank you very much appreciate it do you ever play with the transmission just asking
I am not sure the M119 heads flowed any better than the M113. Actually the M113 heads flowed pretty good compared to higher HP 5 liters. If the numbers I have seen are accurate than the heads should support well over 400HP NA if all the other components were capable. .600" lift cams just aren't possible though but know the head flow just isn't an issue.
Or maybe you could answer this or somebody who's reading and watching your video I have a 2004 E320 with the m112 engine and it blew the intake manifold off I don't believe it actually blew off I think it was so weak that the linkage I don't think the flappers dark because there's not that much carbon inside the intake but it just blew the linkage right in the front of it at your blew that out into pieces because I J-B Weld it it just to make sure I had all the pieces so I knew it didn't suck anything in and it was just two pieces but it blew the whole front of it out and I was seeing if the time was good on the car or if that's why it blew up the intake manifold but there are no copper links on my chain I've spun it around probably 40 times and I've marked my chain and spin it around and I have not found a copper link so I'm thinking that that is a new chain of replacement chain or do they all come with a copper length and my chain is tight and now I found your video on checking the time on it so that's what I'm going to do tomorrow if it's not pouring down rain I live in the Seattle area so live and let rain thank you very much very videos
Yeh, there is no copper links on the factory chain. Only when you replace them. Your manifold could have blown because of a back fire. Check for leaking fuel injectors or intake valves not sealing. Do a compression test and if it turns out okay just swap the manifold and hopefully everything else should be fine
3:44 VTEC!!!!
Scotty cilmer wants to know your location 😱
Twin spark by alfa romeo on a Mercedes Benz engine
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First
Nono, the 3 valve engine was design with low cost as the main focus. Thats the only reason. 3 valve is not more fuel efficient than 4. Its just cheaper to build.
Low cost = lower price and better reliability for the owner,,three valves still gives good flow , and enables dual spark plugs for better ignition...I think MB know what they are doing.
I'd rather have a simple design that works reliably ,,than a complex design that doesn't..
I don't understand very well
you tallk alot of😫 this is a bad thing😫
hey wat is the extra hole on the passenger head where the SC bolts to then the air secondary pump were the air valve bolts down to the head right there is a square hole nothing covers it wen i rebuilt my SC i was lost wondering why its there
Is there a way to check gap on valves and lifters? Or is it not needed on these?
They're hydraulic lifters. They self adjust