NOTE: After setting in Sport Mode (stops blinking), shut down the bike. When you start the bike again, Honda has it set back to Tour Mode. As stated by Max, the back wire access is easy. The front will take some time and patients. Coming from me, that is a challenge. Walked away a few times, and days for that matter. (Wife gave in after a few tries.) The clip to release is facing the rear of the bike. Tilt the bottom toward the front of the bike as you press on the release. This will help get the clip over the catch. Ahhh finally. Then installing the dead plug into the fixed connector from the bike: Put a rag under that entire area. You DO NOT -NOT want to drop that onto the top of the engine! Done that.
Decoupling kit installed - Rear shock was easy peasy. Front shock required a bit of persistence, but mission accomplished. The only thing that has me uneasy is a minor mishap on my part - I used zip ties to tidy up the task. When I snipped off the excess, the excess vanished into the bowels of the bike, never to be seen again. All in all, still a good experience.
Just received the decoupler plugs in the mail. Just want to make sure I understand the process. For both the front and rear shocks, one plug goes on the shock wire, the other plug goes on the wiring harness and they do not connect to each other. The shock wires are plugged and zip tied somewhere to the frame?
You can add some zip ties if you can get your hand in there, but there is only a small whip, there's nothing to be concerned about. BE SURE to start the bike, leave it running, put it into Sport Mode, and then turn it off. Then disconnect the shocks. That will leave them in the firmest setting. It WILL be a pain in the ass, especially the front one!
This disconnects the shocks from the Mode button (Tour, Rain, Eco, Sport). It does not affect the rear spring preload adjuster (1up, 1 up luggage, 2up, 2 up luggage)
Max, You're 2018+ Traxxion replacement shocks/spring set come with the dampening preset and no longer use the adjustable OEM dampener connectors front & rear, is that correct? Thanks....
Max, I need clarification on setting the bike into SPORT mode. I have a 2019 Tour. My steps: I had the bike running , moved to SPORT, waited until the indicator quit flashing, put into Neural the turned off the bike. Did me putting the bike into neural then turning off ignition allow the bike to go back to the TOUR mode for the suspension? The reason I am asking is that once I was all done decoupling both front and rear, I turned on the bike to take it for a test ride, I notice that the mode indicator on the dash reflect it was in TOUR mode. Do I have to go back and reconnect the stuff and re-do all this again?
No. If you turned the bike off in Sport Mode, and then disconnected the connectors, they were still in the Sport Mode which is all you want. After that, no matter where you move the Mode, the shocks will stay in Sport.
So what your saying is sport mode is as tight as you can wind the under sprung under damped shocks. If that’s the case, would cranking up the suspension on a non tour job be optimum adjustment for what you have to play with? Ok duh, never mind. Got it in the comment section. Did I mention that I’m a slow learner🤪
I can barely get my hand on the front shock connector, but if I knew where the release tab was oriented I might have a chance of getting it off. Can you offer some assistance?
I know, it's really hard. I would suggest finding someone with a smaller hand to try. It's also easier for a left handed person I believe. If you get stuck, just wait you can use the bike. The plugs are just to weather proof the connectors.
Max McAllister & Traxxion Dynamics My first attempt took me four hours I managed to disconnect the front shock , but could not attach the blind plug. I dropped it twice and with shear dumb luck was able to retrieve it both times. At that point I gave up. I was able to reattach the shock and in the process realized the wire from the shock to the plug helped me guide it back in place. That gave me an idea. I taped two short pieces of wire tie about two inches long to the blind plug simulating the OEM wires and taped the ends of the wire ties together making a sort of handle. To that I attached a piece of string to help retrieve the plug if I dropped it. This time it took me three hours to fully install all the plugs front and rear. I’m right handed and have large hands so it was a major effort. So glad it’s done!! I’d attach a picture of the Rube Goldberg plug if I knew how. Oh one other thing. After I wired tied the loose ends of the shock wires, I used the string to pull off the wire tie pieces. Pretty ingenious if I do say so myself. 😊
Good idea. Well thought out but in sport mode the engine is still too responsive to the throttle as per your other recent video and the bike bucks like crazy ?
Once the shocks are decoupled you can select which ever mode you want as far as throttle response. The shocks dampening will remain in the sport settings.
I think Max is saying that the sportmode suspension setting is the best one for all purposes, so this kit keeps the suspension in sport mode. This obviously will not fix the undersprung, underdamped issue in sport mode.
I don't see the point of not being able to change the modes even though sport mode gives the best ride for all purposes. Just leave it in sport mode if that suits you best ?
Instead of a decoupling kit why don't you try to design an external controller that can control the suspension independent of the bike and with a better range of motion and selection settings that are say 1 to 10 or something like that. Now that would be something worth buying over loosing all functionality of the suspension all together. you could run a pole to see if that would be something people would be interested in.
The stock shocks work poorly to begin with, and the range of adjustment available with the stock electronic adjusters is undetectable by typical Goldwing owners. Developing an expensive electronic device to control something that doesn't work anyway would be a waste of everyone's money. I have a few videos on this topic back in 2018 when the bike came out and we dissected and analyzed all of the parts before we designed our own shocks.
NOTE: After setting in Sport Mode (stops blinking), shut down the bike. When you start the bike again, Honda has it set back to Tour Mode. As stated by Max, the back wire access is easy. The front will take some time and patients. Coming from me, that is a challenge. Walked away a few times, and days for that matter. (Wife gave in after a few tries.) The clip to release is facing the rear of the bike. Tilt the bottom toward the front of the bike as you press on the release. This will help get the clip over the catch. Ahhh finally. Then installing the dead plug into the fixed connector from the bike: Put a rag under that entire area. You DO NOT -NOT want to drop that onto the top of the engine! Done that.
Came from Cruiseman's Garage... Subscribed. Nice videos. Thank you.
Max, that explanation was so clear. Thanks!
Decoupling kit installed - Rear shock was easy peasy. Front shock required a bit of persistence, but mission accomplished. The only thing that has me uneasy is a minor mishap on my part - I used zip ties to tidy up the task. When I snipped off the excess, the excess vanished into the bowels of the bike, never to be seen again.
All in all, still a good experience.
Goldwings are famous for eating lots of stuff!!!!
Mc, you are the best.
Thank you!!!
Good video. I have been looking for years for that long reach LED light!
Thanks!
OK let's talk about the front shock is it just a shock and spring or does it have damping too? "Is there any lines or wires to it"
Ok. I got it apart and the blind plug attached to the shock. Cannot figure how to attach the other plug??? So afraid of dropping it into the bike!!!
Thanks max, and Dan, I'll be droppin my bike off in Litchfield for suspension up grade. Oh yea, tell Bigfoot I said hello. Lmao
He's not around often!!!
@@Traxxion lmao, thank you
Just received the decoupler plugs in the mail. Just want to make sure I understand the process. For both the front and rear shocks, one plug goes on the shock wire, the other plug goes on the wiring harness and they do not connect to each other. The shock wires are plugged and zip tied somewhere to the frame?
You can add some zip ties if you can get your hand in there, but there is only a small whip, there's nothing to be concerned about.
BE SURE to start the bike, leave it running, put it into Sport Mode, and then turn it off. Then disconnect the shocks. That will leave them in the firmest setting.
It WILL be a pain in the ass, especially the front one!
So your blocking both the front and rear shock without effecting the suspension mode (single, single with luggage, etc)?
This disconnects the shocks from the Mode button (Tour, Rain, Eco, Sport). It does not affect the rear spring preload adjuster (1up, 1 up luggage, 2up, 2 up luggage)
Max, You're 2018+ Traxxion replacement shocks/spring set come with the dampening preset and no longer use the adjustable OEM dampener connectors front & rear, is that correct?
Thanks....
Yessir! You can change modes without messing anything up.
Max, I need clarification on setting the bike into SPORT mode. I have a 2019 Tour. My steps: I had the bike running , moved to SPORT, waited until the indicator quit flashing, put into Neural the turned off the bike. Did me putting the bike into neural then turning off ignition allow the bike to go back to the TOUR mode for the suspension? The reason I am asking is that once I was all done decoupling both front and rear, I turned on the bike to take it for a test ride, I notice that the mode indicator on the dash reflect it was in TOUR mode. Do I have to go back and reconnect the stuff and re-do all this again?
No. If you turned the bike off in Sport Mode, and then disconnected the connectors, they were still in the Sport Mode which is all you want. After that, no matter where you move the Mode, the shocks will stay in Sport.
Thanks, I was sweating your answer. Have a good evening!
Greetings Mc,
Can I only de couple the front shock?.
Them change the mode on rear shock to tour mode??
That should be possible. I haven't tried it, but I'm sure it will work. Not sure WHY you would want to do that, but it should work.
Interesting for the facts on how the factory suspension works. not something I would do as a rider who loves the bike the way it was designed.
So what your saying is sport mode is as tight as you can wind the under sprung under damped shocks. If that’s the case, would cranking up the suspension on a non tour job be optimum adjustment for what you have to play with?
Ok duh, never mind. Got it in the comment section. Did I mention that I’m a slow learner🤪
All good Joseph! Let me know if you ever have other questions.
Will these plugs throw an error code? If it does, reflash?
Max McAllister great low cost fix for folks. Thanks.
I can barely get my hand on the front shock connector, but if I knew where the release tab was oriented I might have a chance of getting it off. Can you offer some assistance?
I know, it's really hard. I would suggest finding someone with a smaller hand to try. It's also easier for a left handed person I believe.
If you get stuck, just wait you can use the bike. The plugs are just to weather proof the connectors.
Max McAllister & Traxxion Dynamics My first attempt took me four hours I managed to disconnect the front shock , but could not attach the blind plug. I dropped it twice and with shear dumb luck was able to retrieve it both times. At that point I gave up. I was able to reattach the shock and in the process realized the wire from the shock to the plug helped me guide it back in place. That gave me an idea. I taped two short pieces of wire tie about two inches long to the blind plug simulating the OEM wires and taped the ends of the wire ties together making a sort of handle. To that I attached a piece of string to help retrieve the plug if I dropped it. This time it took me three hours to fully install all the plugs front and rear. I’m right handed and have large hands so it was a major effort. So glad it’s done!!
I’d attach a picture of the Rube Goldberg plug if I knew how. Oh one other thing. After I wired tied the loose ends of the shock wires, I used the string to pull off the wire tie pieces. Pretty ingenious if I do say so myself. 😊
Good idea. Well thought out but in sport mode the engine is still too responsive to the throttle as per your other recent video and the bike bucks like crazy ?
Once the shocks are decoupled you can select which ever mode you want as far as throttle response. The shocks dampening will remain in the sport settings.
Yes, but if the suspension is not upgraded it will be set in the worst position for handling, ie sport mode.
I think Max is saying that the sportmode suspension setting is the best one for all purposes, so this kit keeps the suspension in sport mode. This obviously will not fix the undersprung, underdamped issue in sport mode.
I don't see the point of not being able to change the modes even though sport mode gives the best ride for all purposes. Just leave it in sport mode if that suits you best ?
But why bother getting the decoupling kit if leaving it in sport mode does the same thing ?
Hi Max will it work if the driver likes combo by doing one a the time ex. Sport rear and tour on front . ?
Yes, you could do that... but it's like pretending you can tell the difference between 34psi and 34.5 psi in your front tire....
@@Traxxion ok great i understand nice example.
If i do this and you state in the video from 1 to 10 i can get up to a 4 if i install your shocks will i reach a 10
Yes. This kit is intended for people who say "I will never buy shock absorbers, it's good enough for me, what can I do?".
Instead of a decoupling kit why don't you try to design an external controller that can control the suspension independent of the bike and with a better range of motion and selection settings that are say 1 to 10 or something like that. Now that would be something worth buying over loosing all functionality of the suspension all together. you could run a pole to see if that would be something people would be interested in.
The stock shocks work poorly to begin with, and the range of adjustment available with the stock electronic adjusters is undetectable by typical Goldwing owners. Developing an expensive electronic device to control something that doesn't work anyway would be a waste of everyone's money.
I have a few videos on this topic back in 2018 when the bike came out and we dissected and analyzed all of the parts before we designed our own shocks.