Gates manufactures 3 different grades of CVT belts, for this model 2015 Wildcat Trail Sport, standard service (Kevlar Reinforcement part # 28G3982) , (carbon fiber reinforcement, less stretch and more torque part #28C3982) and extreme performance released in 2020, part # 28R3982) the belt is called Redline, designed through material science and patented EE (Ethylene Elastomer (heat destroys CVT belts) Gates originally designed the Redline belt to address the low miles received by 1000CC turbo UTV's. 700CC is the min. allowance for the Redline construction, since the 700CC Arctic Cat engine is similar to the 900RZR . Try the Redline if you are having heat aging issues and require stiff axial alignment show cased in the nicely constructed above video.
I just bought a 17 and after just a few miles I noticed a strange spinning / vibrating noise when I let off of the accelerator. Could this be the belt or is that noise normal?
Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton: Please help me understand, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM? It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move. Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner? I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM. Dalton technician reply: Well, ..you are wrong. Lol Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner. ..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights. The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase) It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important. The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that. The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results) Thanks My reply to Dalton: Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights. I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it. If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch: m.czcams.com/video/4pwM26rOico/video.html I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance. Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use. So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades. Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up. By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended). Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go! Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.
Hi. Just picked up a wildcat 2016. Rode it 50 miles and had a blast. Just found your videos and you seem like you know your stuff. We only ride 2 tracks in mid Michigan. Nothing to extreme. Anything I should watch out out for on my SBS. We would appreciate any tips you might have. Thanks.
Thanks responding back. Is it true that I can reuse a warn winch from atv I used to have ? Do you recommend mounting it that way ? The bolt pattern seems to line up. Thanks
You should have deglazed you clutches with a green scotch brite pad before installing a new belt. Then wipe it clean with some rubbing alcohol. Also blow compressed air into the primary and secondary to get all of the belt dust out and wash your new belt in hot water and dish soap to remove the residue left from when the belt was made.
I've watched several of your videos. Nice job. After watching this one, I looked for a Gates belt on their website. The Wildcat Trail/Sport is not listed. Do you know the part # that you used? I would like to order a spare and I have used Gates belts in the past with satisfaction. Thanks!
I don't know much about ATVs and side by sides but 250 miles on a belt does not sound like much. if you weren't running it in dunes what do you think the belt life would be? also great vid
It all depends on how you drive it. Regular trail riding I'd probably swap it at 1000 miles but it would likely go 2000 or more. Again, just depends on how you drive.
@@marcoradat I've checked everything and I don't see any issues with it everything is working the way it properly should it is in-line like it should be but every time I take off I get around 55 it shreds the belt
@@billyenglestufftruckracing1530 if alignment is good then it's building heat from slippage. Pull primary and secondary and inspect. Secondary known to have roller issues. Primary could have a stuck weight.
+knightlike101 In that case it doesn't matter on a new belt. But, if you take it off pay attention to the orientation and be sure and put it back on the same.
+marcoradat I can't find where it was, but from what I remember they explain it'll last longer that way. It's like twisting a spring one way to where it tightens and twisting it the other way to unwind.
6gearz hahah, no thanks. thanks for the video tho. Just burned mine up today, the bad thing is I'm out camping. Do you have to have a impact drill to take the belt off? or could you do it with a socket wrench?
Gates manufactures 3 different grades of CVT belts, for this model 2015 Wildcat Trail Sport, standard service (Kevlar Reinforcement part # 28G3982) , (carbon fiber reinforcement, less stretch and more torque part #28C3982) and extreme performance released in 2020, part # 28R3982) the belt is called Redline, designed through material science and patented EE (Ethylene Elastomer (heat destroys CVT belts) Gates originally designed the Redline belt to address the low miles received by 1000CC turbo UTV's. 700CC is the min. allowance for the Redline construction, since the 700CC Arctic Cat engine is similar to the 900RZR . Try the Redline if you are having heat aging issues and require stiff axial alignment show cased in the nicely constructed above video.
Cool. It's a 3000 lbs and I have a snatch block. Thanks again. My brother had to go and one up me today and bought a bigger wildcat. SOB !!
Wow thank you. Short, precise and sweet,
Thanks picking up a new 700 trail tomorrow.
I keep watching your videos and I have Can-am. nice work! like the vids!
+mossbergtotr Thanks!
Way better video than others...thanks
77headwound Thanks!
Thanks for the informative video !!
Robert Rosevear, sure thing.
I just bought a 17 and after just a few miles I noticed a strange spinning / vibrating noise when I let off of the accelerator. Could this be the belt or is that noise normal?
Great video
Thank you
what is the recomeded torque specs for the bolt!!!!!?
NICE JOB !
Thank you
Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton:
Please help me understand,
I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this.
Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM?
It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move.
Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner?
I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM.
Dalton technician reply:
Well, ..you are wrong.
Lol
Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner.
..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights.
The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase)
It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important.
The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that.
The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results)
Thanks
My reply to Dalton:
Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights.
I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it.
If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch: m.czcams.com/video/4pwM26rOico/video.html
I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance.
Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use.
So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades.
Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up.
By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended).
Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go!
Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.
Hi. Just picked up a wildcat 2016. Rode it 50 miles and had a blast. Just found your videos and you seem like you know your stuff. We only ride 2 tracks in mid Michigan. Nothing to extreme. Anything I should watch out out for on my SBS. We would appreciate any tips you might have. Thanks.
The sport is pretty sound over all. You might check out wildcatforums.net if you haven't already.
Thanks responding back. Is it true that I can reuse a warn winch from atv I used to have ? Do you recommend mounting it that way ? The bolt pattern seems to line up. Thanks
Terry 13 I would recommend a 3000 pound winch at minimum. I have a Viper but Warn works too.
You should have deglazed you clutches with a green scotch brite pad before installing a new belt. Then wipe it clean with some rubbing alcohol. Also blow compressed air into the primary and secondary to get all of the belt dust out and wash your new belt in hot water and dish soap to remove the residue left from when the belt was made.
The purpose of this video is to show how to change a belt not do clutch maintenance. But, certainly things that could be done when doing maintenance.
I've watched several of your videos. Nice job. After watching this one, I looked for a Gates belt on their website. The Wildcat Trail/Sport is not listed. Do you know the part # that you used? I would like to order a spare and I have used Gates belts in the past with satisfaction. Thanks!
+Clay Stanfield #28G3982
is the arctic cat sport a fast nimble machine whats the top speed you reached
I did 102 kmph on my 2018 wildcat sport limited on a gravel road.
250 miles ? If i dont get it least 1500 im pissed
I don't know much about ATVs and side by sides but 250 miles on a belt does not sound like much. if you weren't running it in dunes what do you think the belt life would be? also great vid
It all depends on how you drive it. Regular trail riding I'd probably swap it at 1000 miles but it would likely go 2000 or more. Again, just depends on how you drive.
My 2014 wildcat trail 700 keeps braking belts. I've put on several different types. What could be the problem??
With no other info I'd guess clutching issues.
@@marcoradat I've checked everything and I don't see any issues with it everything is working the way it properly should it is in-line like it should be but every time I take off I get around 55 it shreds the belt
@@billyenglestufftruckracing1530 if alignment is good then it's building heat from slippage. Pull primary and secondary and inspect. Secondary known to have roller issues. Primary could have a stuck weight.
What's that part number
+Wesley Barnhill For what?
You don’t even need to take the clutch off
If you're only getting 300 miles out of a belt. I believe I would go back to the factory belt. We get 2000 miles out of a belt easy
If your belt doesn't have arrows on it, but has words, you'll want to be able to read the words as your putting it on.
+knightlike101 In that case it doesn't matter on a new belt. But, if you take it off pay attention to the orientation and be sure and put it back on the same.
+marcoradat the belt is wound a certain way, so if you put it on backwards it will unwind.
knightlike101 I see...Do you have link to the literature on this?
+marcoradat I can't find where it was, but from what I remember they explain it'll last longer that way. It's like twisting a spring one way to where it tightens and twisting it the other way to unwind.
Replace the T30 with 10mm
She musta been outta balance. Lol
300 miles? that sucks. My daughter has over 2000 miles on OEM belt.
I have 4400 miles on an OEM belt from a 2014 Wildcat trail. Just checked it today, and it is still in good condition.
Dude I got 800 miles on my belt before it went.
Matthew Carey drive 15-20 minutes straight at wot and your belt won't last either. downside to a cvt.
6gearz hahah, no thanks. thanks for the video tho. Just burned mine up today, the bad thing is I'm out camping. Do you have to have a impact drill to take the belt off? or could you do it with a socket wrench?
Matthew Carey you can do it with hand tools.