The derailleurs barrel adjuster is the "goto" for the common problems.
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2019
- The barrel adjuster is your "goto" for the most common problems. if you feel you need to use a tool to make adjustment you may be doing something wrong. Most shifting problems can be addressed with your fingers and a barrel adjuster for all derailleurs and brake adjustments.
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Please watch: "Let's bench test the rear derailleur and see how it moves."
• Let's bench test the r...
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Man, thanks. FINALLY! A tutorial with a DETAILED explanation. When the others I've watched ended, I was left with more questions than I had to begin with.
thanks, :)
I’ve watched over twenty videos on derailier adjusting and I must say yours is the most clear and made the most sense. I subscribed. Thanks.
Thanks Robert I appreciate it.
Extremely helpful, exactly what I needed to smooth out my new cable. Thanks!
Thanks Bike Teacher! Awesome vid. Well explained at a good pace. Cheers!
Thanks, so helpful and really well explained. Had to do this on my Trek, all sorted. Cheers.
Just what I needed to get my deore xt drivetrain running better! Thank you sir.
Your welcome. Thanks
Thank you. Bought a used bike which I thought was a lemon. I have learn a lot from this video and other ones you've done. Very grateful
Thank you so much. Happy to help.
Fixed my issues. Thank you sir!
Nice!! Your welcome.
Excellent advice sir.
The screw analogy is great!
Excellent and clear advice. And no rock music accompaniment!!!
Thank you! 👍🏽
I would like to give a big shout out to you thank you so much well explained you taught me how to use my barrel adjusters on my brakes thank you so much I didn't know what I was doing now I do thanks to you I appreciate you I definitely like your page and I hope you have more to come stay blessed
Thanks 😊
Very helpful tips. Once you memorize the barrel/rear derailleur twisting directions, it is even better to do while riding. I did it today, and my gears are swifting smoothly and fast.
That’s great Mario glad it helped.
yes, very good, maybe you have another barrel aduster down by the rear deraileur/ cassette ... experiment with confidence 😊 peace
@@BikeTeacher Its a me **Mario**
This is really helpful, thank you!
You made it very easy to understand. Thank you
Your welcome.
Thank you. Just the knowledge I needed to learn. You are a good teacher, your approach too “technical teaching is so spot on” THE HOW-TOO EXAMPLE’s. Make it easier to understand & apply…
Your welcome. ⚙️
So clearly explained, thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
After many videos, finally a very clear explanation!! Definitely a like and subscribe…thank you!!!
Awesome, thank you!
When the cable is new, you might need to adjust the barrel during the first days while cable "sits" properly... 🚲
👍Thumbs up, and a red heart for the Bike Teacher King! ♥
Thank you Steve, much appreciated.
The barrel adjustment video tutorial was precise, easy,, just perfect. I hungry to watch more of your well presented videos. Just Great
Thank you Barry!
So good. Thank you. 👍
Your welcome John. Thanks, Arthur
Dude you’re awesome✌️. Subscribed
Thanks for the sub!
I'm sure glad you put this up because, I'm too stupid to remember which way to turn that thing. Great video, thank you!
lol, Glad to help. It's can be a hard one to remember if you don't do it daily.
all explained nicely 👌👌👌
Thank you Steve
That explanation was very easy to follow and easy to implement. Showing the direction of viewing the barrel adjuster thus determining counterclockwise vs clockwise rotation made it easy to understand how it increases or decreases the tension. Now it will be easy to remember while riding and adjusting. Thanks.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thank you.
After tips going in the right direction. Have the "Barrel adjuster grips" L (frt) and R (rear) so tried the cable adjustment into the R handle bar grip but did not seem to work all that well as the cable seemed not to adjust in tension. Is a number of small adjustments as you said that has the bike rear derailuer nearly working perfectly.
1.Sat the chain into low gear and likewise with the derailuer rear after loosening cable wire there.
2.Placed the barrel grip into low gear (6) right from back of bike.
3.Pulled wire slight tight then tightened at rear derailuer.
4.Used the two small rear screws to adjust low gear/high gear and may still have some small adjustments to make. Then tested through each change 1 L-6 H.
The Low gear adjustment screw controls the low gear sprocket alignment and the high gear the same on the high side at this sprocket (Biggest Cog) you do not want the derailuer going of the sprocket into the rear wheel spokes use down-sight alignment at rear.
Having the bike safely sitting in a bike stand can help with adjustments as you test out the gear changes and you will need to test multiple times before getting the right adjustments High-Mid-Low on the stand and riding.
With these l and R grip adjusters you have to get use to the fact that if you go up hill when you mistakenly grip them you will change your gears accordingly which is not suitable on an incline.
I hope I helped out. Thanks
Thanks you so much
Thank you soo much mate
Your welcome
Thanks, perfect!
Your welcome!
good stuff oil helps well too :)
Thanks!!
I just had my deraileur dialed at the shop and it shifts up and down fine. However, I was lubing the chain and noticed the chain would drop gears when the freewheel is engaged? What could be the problem? I'm running a SRAM NX 12spd, 1X setup. Thanks
thank you so much, helped me with my ebike !
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment!
Awesome!
Thanks Buddy!
I'd loved to see a video for troubleshooting shifting on a full suspension enduro MTB. I always struggle with derailleur adjustments that "seem" to work perfect when I have the bike on the stand but the second I get it on the dirt and climb/descend the shifting goes to crap. Any tips for troubleshooting issues like that?
Ah, some full suspensions need to be adjusted while test riding. Once you weight the bike the chain-line angle changes.
b-gap needs to adjusted while at desired sag level
When you are unscrewing the barrel adjuster, is there some rule of thumb for when you stop, screw it back in, then loosen the pinch bolt at the end of the cable and pull the cable to take up the slack, and then go back to using the barrel adjuster? i.e. Is there some formal process for setting the cable tension, maybe with the barrel adjuster in the "center" of its range, so that you have some adjustment range in both directions?
You nailed it. Yes, get the barrel to be 50/50 then attach the cable. There are exceptions though. Sometimes the derailleur may call for more tension during the adjustment so you would need to reset the barrel accordingly. Thanks
I like to start over like I just routed a new cable.
Quality teaching content as always. Upon going back to homebase and started to lock the cable to the rear derailleur. How much or where do you usually out the barrel adjuster on a 1x drivetrain? Thank you.
Same for all, half way. 50/50
@@BikeTeacher Thanks for replying. Using the channel really while starting on my apprenticeship. Subscribe and Notified here. Thanks for all you do. All the best. Respect from Jasper Alberta Canada. ✌️
I've got a front derailleur that is operated by a grip shifter. When the cable is attached the grip shifter is very hard to turn and only turns a small amount, which is not enough to make the derailleur switch gears. If i disconnect the cable and just keep tension with my other hand, then the grip shifter works fine. As soon as the shifter cable is reattached to the front derailleur it stops working again. I can move the derailleur by manually pulling on the cable myself, but can't make the shifter pull the cable enough to make it work. Any suggestions??
Maybe the routing of the cable and positioning of how the cable is attached to the pinch may not be correct. The cable can be secured or pinched by the pinch bolt on two sides. One side is only correct. Remove the pinch bole and washer and look for signs of where the cable should lie, usually a grove. The washer may be position sensitive as we.
My front gear barrel adjuster in not going inside or outside , its just rotating on its axis.What to do?
You saved me I’m about to go moab
Nice!! Hope it was good.
Wish bike teacher was near me, Central Florida
Thanks!, I had one couple visit from there a few years back.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Function of adjuster near shifter:
Moving anti-clockwise tightens the cable and help in shifting to bigger cogs.
Moving clockwise will loosen the cable and help in shifting to smaller cogs.
And this is just opposite when one is trying to do with the adjuster near the derailleur.
Same philosophy goes for the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur and downtube for road bikes. The “inline” barrel adjuster which is installed inline with the cable/housing works the same way. They all expand or grow creating tension and then activate the the component. Just like cable brakes. Thanks
@@BikeTeacher ok, thanks.
Really clear - I’ve got a better idea of what the barrel adjuster actually does! Shifting sorted.
Great! Glad it helped.
Got a new freewheel on my bike. However, the chain skips on the 6th gear(she has six gears) when I apply load. My chain is new too. LBS says the problem would get solved once I have a few rides. Could the barrel adjuster on the handle solve the issue? LBS adjusted the one near the rear derailleur.
New chain and freewheel...Only happening in the last smallest gear? The chain is near the end (including gear 1 and gear 6 or last). The limit screw or High limit screw in this case could be a contributing problem. Either too tight or too loose. Turn either direction just 1/8" turn at a time. Testing the gears after each minor adjustment.
@@BikeTeacher Will give a try. Thanks:)
Please clarify: loosening the barrel adjuster by turning it counterclockwise will increase the tension on the cable?
I know it sounds counter intuitive, as the barrel (screw) loosens and backs out of the component (shifter or derailleur) it then applies pressure to the housing (hard outer casing). It then activates the cable by pulling on it. As it pulls on the cable the cable will activate what ever it is connected to. In this case it is the rear derailleur which then in it's own design starts to elongate the derailleur then pushing the chain up the cassette from one small gear to the next largest and so one. I hope this helps.
@@BikeTeacher Thank you for response and insight. It makes more sense now.
Hi, I'm rotating my rear barrel adjuster counter clockwise but cable is not tightening. It's not disengaged too though, so I'm not sure what's happening here.
The barrel adjusters threads may have come disengaged from its home (interior shifter threads). So it not connected anymore.
My barrel adjuster doesn't work what to do?
How often is it normal to increase the tension in the derailleur cable? I have a new KTM bike, and the tension in the back derailleur needs an adjustment every 2-3 hours of riding, if i shift the gears often.
That means the chain starts to fall from a larger to a smaller pinion, especially while I climb a slope. Or shifting to a larger pinion gets difficult.
So, is it normal that the derailleur cable needs more tension every 2-3 hours, in these condition?
No, it is not normal. Something else is wrong. There could be many things going on. From a needed adjustment to incorrectly installed parts or incompatible parts, like derailleur, shifter, cassette etc.
My chain is having issues shifting down into the smaller gears
Many things can be wrong, worn chain, worn rings, too much cable tension, release the cable with the shifter in gear 1 and then reconnect.
What is the seat post made of?
That bike there had a aluminum seat post.
In adjusting my front derailleur's H limit, I came to a point where the barrel adjuster just wont turn either way and I can't get into the largest sprocket!! Don't know what to do now.
The barrel adjuster it stuck, carefully use pliers to break it loose. Proceed with caution.
@@BikeTeacher ok thank you!! would loosening the cable from the derailleur help any?
start adjustments at one end of the gearing ( remember ) ... now the cable tension will be more accurate as you turn that barrel adjuster ,, you may need to adjust the barrel adjuster down by the derailleur ... i have done that as well. Just look for more tips from others in the comments section and keep watching these videos 😑 peace
Isn’t this what the L-screw and H-screw are for? How do I know whether to adjust the screws or the barrel adjusted? They seem like they’re both designed to correct the same problem?
The limit screws are limiting the movement of the chain. They stop te chain from going to far into the spokes (L) nad going into the the frame (H). If you are not experiencing this problem then do not touch the limit screws. Hope this helps.
I have a shifting issue on a full suspension mtb. Gears shift fine on a stand but as soon as I get out on a ride they don’t shift well at all. Typically mid range gears are the problem. Would indexing under Sag make a difference? Is that even possible? Haha
Yes it can make a difference. As soon as you sit on the bike the rear triangle pivots from the front of the bike changing the chain line. If you have a front derailleur this would be more visible with the eye. The chain ya touch or drag on the bottom end of the front derailleur depending on which gear it’s in. Just do a “ on the bike adjustment “ test ride.
Bike Teacher thanks for the reply. It’s a single 12 speed derailleur. Also figured out that the B gap wasn’t correct, I adjusted that under sag and there’s a marked improvement.
Hi! What would be the «scientific » explanation on how a barrel adjuster works on inner cable tension? Thanks!
I will do my best off the top of my head to answer. I can also research this and see if there is something out there that can help me provide a video with a proper explanation. This question does come up in class from time to time.
What I believe is happening is by unscrewing the barrel adjuster it is moving the housing away from the shifter or rear derailleur depending where the adjuster is located. Since the shifter is bolted and stationary and the derailleur is mounted to the frame (or derailleur hanger) and stationary that energy or movement needs to go somewhere. I believe that energy is moving or pivoting (pushing) the derailleurs (front and rear) causing the derailleur to move and dictate what the chain is going.
Essentially if your unscrewing the barrel adjuster (making the barrel adjuster move outward), your essentially making the outer cable longer, meaning the inner cable will be getting tighter as it will remain the same length
Bike Teacher Hi! How does that make sense?
Jason Dyer Hi! That does not make sense.
I’ve got some problem. Down shifting works perfectly fine. But shifting up doesn’t. I have to shift up to times to actually shift one gear. I have no idea why is that, I adjusted so many times so many things, but couldn’t get it to work. Could you tell me what should I do?
Hey bro,
Where the cable is bolted down on your rear derailler, go ahead and loosen it so the cable is free. Use some pliers and pinch the cable, pulling it really tight, retighten the nut that holds the cable. then try using your barrel adjuster to fine tune it like he does in the video
@@evanwarsify hey mate, I just did that, and it fcked up everything:)). My shifter now just wont shift up to 8, the shifter is reallllly loose and it won't click and make the shift. Not sure what happened and what should I do :)))
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Dumb question but Would the barrel adjuster work the same direction if it's on the rear derailleur and not on the handlebar area?
Good question, it can be confusing. Yes to your answer.
*question.
How can i fix stuck barrel adjuster even when i turn it it the cable doesnt move
I use pliers to unstuck it if it is in too tight. If it is out all the way then the threads need to be reinstalled, but loosen the cable pinch bolt first.
You are probarly not responding to comments anymore but ill give it a try
I got a bike not too long ago and the gears are a little jump and it does work to unscrew the barrel adjuster to make the cable tighter but the problem is whenever i jump, do a wheelie, or simply just hit a bump it moves down aka screwing in itself.
So do you have any tips to make it stop moving. And incase you wanna know the bike is a merida big nine
15. Thanks in advance
Sorry for late reply. If the barrel adjuster is moving on its own. I would apply threadlocker, just a samll dot's worth. This will add some friction and not allow screws to vibrate free.
When i did this the barral adjuster fell off and it did not make thr move to the bigger chainring
You may need to reinstall the barrel adjuster, but first loosen the cable pinch first.
Seeing most bike designs these days only use a single chainring in the front and multi speed rear cassette. Won't you get extreme cross chaining across the drivetrain centerline with this design?
Does sitting on the bike matter 🤔
I dont fully understand the difference between the barrol adjustment on the shifter and on the derailleur
My theory is it just adds additional scope for tightening/loosening the cable since the rear derailleur has more range of motion than the front.
Rather than sticking all the adjustment onto the barrel on the handle bars it's spread across 2 barrels.
I could be wrong but it seems sensible.
So the barrel adjustment is for non reactive shifts and the H and L screw adjustment is for preventing the chain from jumping out of the 1st and the last sprocket?
Yes on the h and l. Not sure what you mean by non reactive.
By non reactive, I mean non shifting. Is barrel adjument done when gears fo not shift? H&L adjustment has no role in fixing gear shifts?
You are correct. The limit screws are set once for setting the range and then should never be touched again, basically.
@@BikeTeacher Thank you so much for the information ☺️
@@BikeTeacher Thanks for clarification 👍
I dont have a rear derailleur barrel adjuster, would that be okay?
Hello Sir! My bike has a problem and I want to talk to you inperson. Do you have Insta or something?
Can i send you a video of my giant anthem
And you see whats the problem?
Yes, try text or email. 408-210-2980
This bike was really easy to assemble czcams.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Nice! Everyone should have one.
I accidentally backed it all the way out and it fell out.
Did you get it back in? It may be under pressure and hard to get to.
@@BikeTeacher yes, I did.
tom morello bike repair
Lol, if I had a nickel......
In most of the videos about bike repair bike stand is used. A bike stand isn't very common among casual bikers and therefore maybe it would be better to demonstrate different techniques without using one.
I can do that. What are a few things you would like to see?
@@BikeTeacher Exactly the same repair technics you are showing, but repair without bike stand.
For example, I want to try to tune rear derailleur, and, after watching your video, try to repeat everything you did. But I can't, cause i don't have a bike stand, as an absolute majority of cyclists.
There is no barrel adjuster on my handlebars this is not helpful at all
Is there one on the derailleur or down tube? Or do you have friction shifters?
@@BikeTeacher there’s one on the rear but I can’t tell if it’s broken or not, I had a team fix it up today but they didn’t do it completely correct
If you get no reaction from it. It may be broken. It may not be threaded in properly.
@@BikeTeacher ok thanks
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I cannot move barrel adjuster in any direction its to tight😭😭😭😭😭😭😭 please help me