Worm gears give very high gear ratios and thus torque. In this video I made a simple model using a bolt as a worm wheel. / maciej-nowak-962547184 / mn.projects
@@adityarane5735 As Anel Pasic said, it's vary rare to find a wheel gear that isn't brass or bronze unless it's special purpose. That is your wear gear. Normally, the wheel gear is attached to another gear that leads into further gear reduction to handle even more torque if so desired.
@@jaakkopontinen or, just dont show your fucked up bit of the gear on video that might also be the case. he made it out of brass anyways so its totally useless
@@higamerXD Not really. It's common to have a bronze ring gear. One, it will protect the motor since it will strip first, and it's a stronger gear to make out of brass compared to the pinion worm gear. Bronze is actually quite strong. Plus, it will hold oil better compared to steel.
I have done this on mills too. It is a very good method to create custom worm gear sets. You get very good engagement as well. I had to make these type of gear sets for scientific instruments. No one made the sizes and gear ratio I needed. Nice video and methods
A special work! I've been working with machines for 15 years but I can still learn tricks from you. Today's technology no longer allows you to learn things. Wonderfully worked and clean. Good luck
@@Inventive101 ah, you mean hand made things. fair enough but on the other hand, there is a lot to learn with cnc/software/3D printing and new materials tech. exciting times in a different way.
Fantastic work mate! Looks really good, works well too. Best to have a nice tight press fit for bearings, if that's not possible then make it a sliding fit and use loctite bearing retainer (638/648) for bearing/shaft seals instead of jb-weld or generic epoxy. Also use tapered roller bearings instead of ball bearings for the bolt-drive if there's going to be high axial loads.
Tapered bearing thrust side only. Other side should be a ball bearing. If they are both tapered the off side bearing clearance will increase as the heat of operation expands the housing.
I have been a Tool & Die maker for over 50 years but I want to commend you on your skill and ability to make such a fine project with so little. Your methods at times scare me as far as safety goes and your fingers as holding things with your hands can lead to the loss of fingers and I have seen eyes put out in machine shops I have worked in but still I have never seen so much made with so little. ' We used to have a saying when I worked at Arizona State University in the Physics Machine Shop for 20 years before I retired. "We the willing, lead by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much for so long with so little that we are now qualified to anything with nothing at all"! You personify that statement! You Rock my friend and I say Kudos to you. What a beautiful job you did with rudimentary tools. Your ingenuity is to be admired. It takes a person with knowledge of such devices (worm and worm wheel) to appreciate what you have done. The unknowing will just look at it and see nothing. Truly, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. The knowing will see beauty in every step. The unknowing will just stare like a deer in a headlight. Take care and keep up the good work. Maximus has spoken.
this looks amazing. I do wonder just how much strain those smaller threads can take on a single side like that If it can take a few thousand pounds without deforming the threads this would be an amazingly useful bit of kit to have.
The guy most obviously knows what he's doing. I pretty sure he understands loads in respect to the application. I believe he made it more for the need of the ratio and not the output force seeing that's what he cited in text.
@@TechieTard Myself, I would have used aluminum bronze , it's really tough. And for the bearing bosses..... I was kinda hoping he was using a digital readout on the X and Y axis' of the mill....... The back lash on the threads seems a bit excessive..... say 20 thou instead of maybe 3 or 4 thou.... meaning I would have used a fly-cutter to get the bosses dead-center for proper back-lash clearances..... but then, that's just me being a fuss-budget, lol.
Well done, master of machining! I would like to reply to some comments made about the accuracy of the cutting procedure. One calculates the Pitch Circle Diametre (PCD) of the threading tap to the size of gear one wants to cut also using the PCD to size the final dimension of the gear.
Very nice.! U know instead of jb weld like u use on ur bearings u can use medium/semi permanent or red/ permanent thread locker with thread locker u have the option to change the bearings if needed in future with a heat gun. That’s how I installed mine when I was building belt pulley ls for belt grinder and it works perfectly till this day and it’s been over a year now almost daily use.
Nice job. I have a Taiwanese Mill with a very touchy spindle quill drive, 5 deg turn of the handle is about 3th. I am at the moment making a worm wheel and worm gear for it so this video is inspiring. Thank you.
Wow dude! I'm very impressed with your ingenuity on this project. I do have one question for you if you don't mind. Why didn't you cut the bolt support bearing housing to a .001"/.002" press fit? The epoxy works too, and i love the finished product! 10 out of 10 in my book Brother.
I really like the way you cut the thread on the gear very ingenious. I really did not like the use of epoxy instead of press fit or even snap rings to retain the bearings. But yeah pretty cool. Impressive welding also
i hope I get to do something like that on a lathe at my university. Ive wanted to construct a heavy telescope mount for a long time but an essential part of those is a worm gear (since they spin at around one revolution per 23h 56m)
Hi ! The idea is good but...... The tool you used to create the teeth on the crown would have to be slightly different. As there is a height difference between the tooth head and the tooth foot, the tool would have to be modified so that the coupling between the screw and the crown was more precise. It may work, but it can't be too demanding on the system.
That is an elegant solution. I wonder if you could repeat this exorcise with an acme thread. 😁 Of course a thrust bearing might be of more use in this case.
Very nice! It should be said though that not all worm gears have a locked output gear. I currently have a 15:1 gear in front of me which is actually back-driveable. Just so no one builds a dangerous machine based on the information in the video.
Nice and interesting your presentation, but I have a question: when you first cut that gear using a M20 tap, how did you know the gear would have an integer number of teeth? That operation is usually made using a divider in order to get an integer number of teeth.
You can make a good guess at a tooth radius that will work by doing some math. If you are off by a small bit, the setup will mostly self correct, dividing the error evenly spreading the error across all teeth. You run into the same challenge when knurling - a knurling roller has a set spacing that you want to work out to wrapping around the part an integer number of times. But nobody uses a divider to lay out knurls.
The out diameter has to be cut to very close tolerances in order for the hobbed teeth to be perfectly in sync. There will be charts or tables available for this.
I guess if it's brass, you could just keep running it and increase depth until clean teeth were evenly formed, but youd have to be pretty close to the target OD to start off. Im sure there's charts for # of teeth for diameter based on TPI, but it might be faster to do the math than search for that. (1 /your bolt TPI) = spline spacing, then multiply that by # of splines you want = Circumference, then (C / 3.14) will give you the OD inches. there's other ways. this will get you close
Outside calipers and a willingness to spend more time with a dremel in 90 second increments until you've arrived? Sneak up on it? The other responses are right about self-correcting, assuming one is close, but I'd be prepared to assert you could get it down to lathe tolerances with a dremel and a LOT of patience...
Great job! How to calculate diameter' gear, if you want a determined number of teeth? And how "pitch" first and last teeth in the first pass? Does it "automatically" match? Thanks.
Качество изготовления потрясающее. Мне кажется, что подшипники на приводном червяке должны быть упорными, либо, как минимум, должны иметь крышки. Иначе высокий крутящий момент вырвет болт вместе с подшипниками. Еще, наверное, надо бы масляную ванну предусмотреть для смазки шестерен
taps are a certain number of threads per inch or millimeter. As such you calculate the diameter such that the circumference is evenly divisible by the threads per inch/mm of your tap.
MAN! Man! MAN!!! This is genius! Using a common threading bit and a lathe... oh boy I will make so many worm reductors now lol THANK YOU!
Now my elevator may not go to the top floor all the time, but I have a sneaking suspicion you might have a little sarcasm in that tone of yours.
I doubt the strength of brass gear teeth.
It wont be able to bear high torques.
You will need high strength materials and also axial load bearings.
@@adityarane5735 Most worm gears are made from either brass or bronze.
You are underestimating the shear strength of those two materials.
How do you calculate the diameter?
@@adityarane5735 As Anel Pasic said, it's vary rare to find a wheel gear that isn't brass or bronze unless it's special purpose. That is your wear gear. Normally, the wheel gear is attached to another gear that leads into further gear reduction to handle even more torque if so desired.
Wow, that is the most effed up way I've ever seen a gear cut, and it worked just fine. Props.
Yeah it just happened to align :D
@@jaakkopontinen ive been trying to figure out how he got it to align nicely too
Trial / error /luck. Or perhaps math (diameter vs pitch), but that would, of course, require veeery precise calibration and settings on the lathe.
@@jaakkopontinen or, just dont show your fucked up bit of the gear on video that might also be the case. he made it out of brass anyways so its totally useless
@@higamerXD Not really. It's common to have a bronze ring gear. One, it will protect the motor since it will strip first, and it's a stronger gear to make out of brass compared to the pinion worm gear. Bronze is actually quite strong. Plus, it will hold oil better compared to steel.
I have done this on mills too. It is a very good method to create custom worm gear sets. You get very good engagement as well. I had to make these type of gear sets for scientific instruments. No one made the sizes and gear ratio I needed. Nice video and methods
I spent fifty years in toolrooms, building stamping dies, injection molds, and lots of prototype gizmos. I am very impressed.
It’s been a pleasure viewing your gears, young man. Thank for the performance.
Using threading tap is a briliant idea. Thanks for the film!
I am so thankful to have come across this wonderful,amazing, video. Thank you very much!!!!
I don't understand how there can be people who don't like this work of yours, it's GREAT, very professional, greetings from Punta Umbría-Huelva.
Excellent job, after long time working I learned something completly new. Thanks
Beautiful work, brother. Well made!
It is so spectacular watching how you used the tap to make gear teeth. Amazing work and so satisfying to watch.
Yes this was the coolest part! Very inspiring
It’s called hobbing.
Very nicely done. Might be a good idea to cover the ways of the lathe when using the Dremel.
A special work! I've been working with machines for 15 years but I can still learn tricks from you. Today's technology no longer allows you to learn things. Wonderfully worked and clean. Good luck
I appreciate you brother give me a shout out please..I'll be waiting
'Today's technology no longer allows you to learn things.' what..?
@@daos3300 For example in your video. At work, everything is done on cnc, we rarely do manual work
@@Inventive101 ah, you mean hand made things. fair enough but on the other hand, there is a lot to learn with cnc/software/3D printing and new materials tech. exciting times in a different way.
@@daos3300 It's true, it's also a beautiful part of things. I'm a manual fan anyway
Love the project for my little shop. Good job man.
Wow! - projekt jest genialny i zrobiony bardzo estetycznie, na pewno wypróbuję
Fantastic work mate! Looks really good, works well too.
Best to have a nice tight press fit for bearings, if that's not possible then make it a sliding fit and use loctite bearing retainer (638/648) for bearing/shaft seals instead of jb-weld or generic epoxy. Also use tapered roller bearings instead of ball bearings for the bolt-drive if there's going to be high axial loads.
Depends on it's use. With JB weld you don't need a circlip or retainer cap, I use it often for this purpose especially if it is low speed low load..
Tapered bearing thrust side only. Other side should be a ball bearing. If they are both tapered the off side bearing clearance will increase as the heat of operation expands the housing.
I have been a Tool & Die maker for over 50 years but I want to commend you on your skill and ability to make such a fine project with so little.
Your methods at times scare me as far as safety goes and your fingers as holding things with your hands can lead to the loss of fingers and I have seen eyes put out in machine shops I have worked in but still I have never seen so much made with so little.
'
We used to have a saying when I worked at Arizona State University in the Physics Machine Shop for 20 years before I retired.
"We the willing, lead by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful.
We have done so much for so long with so little that we are now qualified to anything with nothing at all"!
You personify that statement!
You Rock my friend and I say Kudos to you. What a beautiful job you did with rudimentary tools. Your ingenuity is to be admired. It takes a person with knowledge of such devices (worm and worm wheel) to appreciate what you have done. The unknowing will just look at it and see nothing.
Truly, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. The knowing will see beauty in every step. The unknowing will just stare like a deer in a headlight.
Take care and keep up the good work.
Maximus has spoken.
Thank you ! MISTER MAUDESLAY !! / VAUCANSEN !!!
Very cool. Love the shop.
Great job very professional. Respect for you genius. 👏👏👏
Awesome work sir, keep up a good work sir, appreciating from the Philippines
this looks amazing. I do wonder just how much strain those smaller threads can take on a single side like that If it can take a few thousand pounds without deforming the threads this would be an amazingly useful bit of kit to have.
well, he did take brass so realistically this is only a desk decor piece as the brass could never take any amount of real force
Won't take much over time.
The guy most obviously knows what he's doing. I pretty sure he understands loads in respect to the application. I believe he made it more for the need of the ratio and not the output force seeing that's what he cited in text.
@@TechieTard Myself, I would have used aluminum bronze , it's really tough.
And for the bearing bosses..... I was kinda hoping he was using a digital readout on the X and Y axis' of the mill....... The back lash on the threads seems a bit excessive..... say 20 thou instead of maybe 3 or 4 thou.... meaning I would have used a fly-cutter to get the bosses dead-center for proper back-lash clearances..... but then, that's just me being a fuss-budget, lol.
You’re making it look way too easy, I just wish it was for everyone, awesome!
You do beautiful work. You're a freaking genius...
Well, 'I learned something new. Thanks for the upload.
Well done, master of machining!
I would like to reply to some comments made about the accuracy of the cutting procedure.
One calculates the Pitch Circle Diametre (PCD) of the threading tap to the size of gear one wants to cut also using the PCD to size the final dimension of the gear.
You are a”REAL” boss, thanks.
wow... extremly professional
Pretty fantastic work, dude! Nicely done! 😃
Looking forward to see where you're going to use it!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Excellent engineering skills . A pleasure to view your detailed work . . Keep up the excellent work and content . Amazing quality work .
Amazing work.
Thank you
I can't believe what great job you did ! You're just AWESOME
Impressive work!
Very nice.! U know instead of jb weld like u use on ur bearings u can use medium/semi permanent or red/ permanent thread locker with thread locker u have the option to change the bearings if needed in future with a heat gun. That’s how I installed mine when I was building belt pulley ls for belt grinder and it works perfectly till this day and it’s been over a year now almost daily use.
Brilliant Mechanical Work 👌👌👌
I´d so much loved to learn things like that. Metal working is a nice hobby.
Spectacular! Amazing! this will be the base for a lathe divider with Arduino and stepper motor.
Compliments for your idea and your work
Nice job. I have a Taiwanese Mill with a very touchy spindle quill drive, 5 deg turn of the handle is about 3th. I am at the moment making a worm wheel and worm gear for it so this video is inspiring. Thank you.
nicely done...good job
Great vid. How did you position the drive gear in the housing to obtain an accurate backlash on the worm?
I like the vice on your drill press
Wow dude! I'm very impressed with your ingenuity on this project. I do have one question for you if you don't mind. Why didn't you cut the bolt support bearing housing to a .001"/.002" press fit? The epoxy works too, and i love the finished product! 10 out of 10 in my book Brother.
Very good idea. Thank you.
Excellent work
Beautiful job. You make it look so simple. I know it isn’t.
Ya got a thumbs up from me my friend! 👍. Well done.
Great design nice thank you so much sir.
Thanks for the video!
It would be nice to know what made you take this approach!
So clearly explained!
Thank you for not just blasting music during the video.
I really like the way you cut the thread on the gear very ingenious. I really did not like the use of epoxy instead of press fit or even snap rings to retain the bearings. But yeah pretty cool. Impressive welding also
This makes me want a mini lathe so bad!
Very amazing work
Świetna robota! Genialny i prosty sposób z gwintownikiem! Pozdrawiam!
Very impressive!
Really cool. So many techniques in this video I wouldn't think of.
it's beautiful, I love it
Wow.. Spectacular job mate 👍❤️😁
Oooh, that's practical engineering!😀😀😀
You just added a tool to my kit bag. Thank you!!
Great workmanship!
Nice work! We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Great work as usual Maciej 😎👍
No comment. Super work
Great job, Great Video.
a very nice idea
иииии подача смазки в такой узел тугой струёй.
Лайк, людям с руками всегда лайк
El torno la maquina más completa sin dudas!
Fantastic idea.💡💡💡 Super job!👍👍👍
Professionals Always Professionals keep it up 👌👌✌✌👉👉👍👍🤝
I am impressed
i hope I get to do something like that on a lathe at my university. Ive wanted to construct a heavy telescope mount for a long time but an essential part of those is a worm gear (since they spin at around one revolution per 23h 56m)
Yes. This will work neatly on a tracking mount.
Hi !
The idea is good but......
The tool you used to create the teeth on the crown would have to be slightly different.
As there is a height difference between the tooth head and the tooth foot, the tool would have to be modified so that the coupling between the screw and the crown was more precise.
It may work, but it can't be too demanding on the system.
Beautiful
very good idea...............
Your Improvising skills are on point 👍👍
Better welds than I could do....Nice job!
Just great , thnx a lot
great job sir a big greeting from casablanca "morocco"
Great work, beautiful worm gear. When in actual use, it will need some grease.
I would suggest lithium grease for the interface between the gear and the screw.
That's so cool!!!
That is an elegant solution.
I wonder if you could repeat this exorcise with an acme thread. 😁
Of course a thrust bearing might be of more use in this case.
Looks and works great!
So satisfying excellent work from the USA California
Super work I like it
Excellent!!!
I love it. this is so informatif
That was really amazing, dude! Liked and subbed! Really, really outstanding work! Congratulations! That's a hard thing to do by hand like that¡
Very nice! It should be said though that not all worm gears have a locked output gear. I currently have a 15:1 gear in front of me which is actually back-driveable. Just so no one builds a dangerous machine based on the information in the video.
Beautiful work.
Looks cool as hell.
I'm guessing you left it open because you didn't want to disassemble it for periodic cleaning and greasing?
Nice and interesting your presentation, but I have a question: when you first cut that gear using a M20 tap, how did you know the gear would have an integer number of teeth? That operation is usually made using a divider in order to get an integer number of teeth.
worked to nearest standardised diametral pitch? plenty of scope with the manual grinding (would have used a form tool myself)
You can make a good guess at a tooth radius that will work by doing some math. If you are off by a small bit, the setup will mostly self correct, dividing the error evenly spreading the error across all teeth.
You run into the same challenge when knurling - a knurling roller has a set spacing that you want to work out to wrapping around the part an integer number of times. But nobody uses a divider to lay out knurls.
The out diameter has to be cut to very close tolerances in order for the hobbed teeth to be perfectly in sync. There will be charts or tables available for this.
I guess if it's brass, you could just keep running it and increase depth until clean teeth were evenly formed, but youd have to be pretty close to the target OD to start off. Im sure there's charts for # of teeth for diameter based on TPI, but it might be faster to do the math than search for that.
(1 /your bolt TPI) = spline spacing, then multiply that by # of splines you want = Circumference, then (C / 3.14) will give you the OD inches. there's other ways. this will get you close
Outside calipers and a willingness to spend more time with a dremel in 90 second increments until you've arrived? Sneak up on it? The other responses are right about self-correcting, assuming one is close, but I'd be prepared to assert you could get it down to lathe tolerances with a dremel and a LOT of patience...
Fantastic project. Looks like you got the start and finish of the threads on the wheel to meet up perfectly. How did you do that?
Circumference divided by the thread pitch must be an integer and then it works.
@@marcelbron6128 Thanks!
I made one very similar. Only issue is once you add a load on the worm gear, the steel bolt will destroy the brass gear.
Great job! How to calculate diameter' gear, if you want a determined number of teeth?
And how "pitch" first and last teeth in the first pass? Does it "automatically" match?
Thanks.
Nice video, thanks :)
Beautiful work! 👍
Качество изготовления потрясающее. Мне кажется, что подшипники на приводном червяке должны быть упорными, либо, как минимум, должны иметь крышки. Иначе высокий крутящий момент вырвет болт вместе с подшипниками. Еще, наверное, надо бы масляную ванну предусмотреть для смазки шестерен
świetna robota ładnie wyszło
Superb.
Kakav si ti genije... Svaka čast!!!
how do you calculate the diameter in order to avoid a thread mismatch at the end of the work?
taps are a certain number of threads per inch or millimeter. As such you calculate the diameter such that the circumference is evenly divisible by the threads per inch/mm of your tap.
@@therestorationshop right
Pie is good, very tasty, everyone loves pie.... you guys like pie? Apple pie... cherry pie... shoe fly pie... mmmmmm mmmmmm love me some PI !
Good question and best answer too.